Canadian Woodworking 017 (April-May 2002) PDF

PLANS PROJECTS JIGS TIPS PAT T E R N S
APRIL/MAY 2002
Vol.5, No. 2
Build a
Classic
Garden Bench
Make Your Own
Countertop Jig
Intro to
Hollow Turning
Saw Blade
Review
FREE Intarsia Pattern
Book Review:
25 Essential Projects $3.99
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www.canadianwoodworking.com
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VOLUME 5, NO. 2
CONTENTS AA PP RR II LL // M AA YY
M 22 00 00 22
EDITORS
PAUL FULCHER, LINDA FULCHER
WRITERS
CARL DUGUAY, MARK EATON,
HANK ETHIER, REA GIBSON, GARNET HALL,
JIM KOUDYS, GRAHAM MCCULLOCH,
LOU PEETERS, DANNY PROULX, PAUL ROSS, FEATURES
STEVE SIDDALL, MICHEL THERIAULT,
CHESTER VAN NESS, HENDRIK VARJU 6 SAW TIE
BY GARNET HALL
ADVERTISING
PAUL FULCHER, LINDA FULCHER 9 CLASSIC GARDEN BENCH
BY DANNY PROULX
CIRCULATION
NEWS STANDS ACROSS CANADA, 17 INTRODUCTION TO
SUBSCRIPTIONS VIA CANADIAN POST HOLLOW TURNING
CORPORATION, PARTICIPATING BY PAUL ROSS
WOODSHOWS ACROSS CANADA, CANADIAN
WOODWORKING ADVERTISERS, 19 MAGIC FOUR PUZZLE 9
WOODSHOW EXHIBITORS & COMPETITIONS
BY REA GIBSON
CANADIAN WOODWORKING
IS PUBLISHED SIX TIMES PER YEAR:
24 COUNTERTOP CONNECTOR JIG
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JUNE/JULY; AUGUST/SEPTEMBER;
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DECEMBER/JANUARY BY STEVE SIDDALL
SUBSCRIPTIONS 29 BIRD FEEDER

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COPYRIGHT 2001 BY CANADIAN WOODWORKING
40 BOOK REVIEW: 25 ESSENTIAL
MAGAZINE DIV. OF VISION QUEST INCORPORATED PROJECTS FOR YOUR WORKSHOP
CANADIAN WOODWORKING MAGAZINE BY MICHEL THERIAULT
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TEL. (519)449-2444 FAX (519)449-2445
email:letters@canadianwoodworking.com
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REPRINTING IN WHOLE OR PART IS FORBIDDEN EXCEPT
BY WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. DEPARTMENTS
Please exercise caution when working with any tools or machinery. 3 EDITORS LETTERS
Follow common safety rules and precautions as outlined in any manuals 4 DEAR EDITORS
related to the equipment being used. This publication is sold with the
understanding that (1) the authors and editors are not responsible for the 15 TOOL TEST 27
results of any actions taken on the basis of information in this publication,
nor for any errors or omissions; and (2) the publisher is not engaged in 21 PRO TIPS
rendering professional advice/services. The publisher, and the authors 22 TOOL REVIEW
and editors, expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a
purchaser of this publication or not, in respect of anything and of the 34 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
consequences of anything done or omitted to be done by any such person
in reliance, whether whole or partial, upon the whole or any part of the
contents of this publication. If advice or other expert assistance is required, Cover photo by
the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
Michael Bowie from Lux Photography, Ottawa
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editorsletters
LINDA FULCHER PAUL FULCHER
“J A
igs are like belly-buttons. Every woodworker has s you’ll see from the Letters to the Editors,
one.” That is what our jig judge, Lou Peeters, told woodworkers everywhere are scouring the country
me about jigs. And I thought a jig was a dance! I looking for information on, and supplies for, their
was practicing with Paul in the office, thinking to favourite past-time and hobby.
myself how much fun we are going to have at the
Jig Contest. Woodworkers are looking for new and innovative
ways to make the most of their passion. Whether it’s
the raw material, a component that will be incorporated into their
Sorting out all these woodworking terms is a bit like a jigsaw work or an end product that they can paint or finish. Woodworkers
puzzle to me. A jig. It is not a pattern. It is not a template. It is a everywhere are reaching out!
dance, but this is not the jig we are talking about. I am beginning to
see the connection though . . . because you move a lot when you No longer are isolated woodworkers toiling away in their
dance, and machines move when they are running. I remember workshops, doing the best they can with what they’ve got. Now,
Garnet Hall giving some pretty good advice for bolting down the like never before, woodworkers are “getting out there”. Sharing
jig saw. It is something that makes a job easier and safer. It is tips and tricks, giving ideas and suggestions, offering new
something that helps you make the project. The Canadian resources and showing each other their stuff.
Dictionary defines jig as: “5) a device for holding a tool or for
holding machine work in place.” For instance, have you been to a wood show lately? Well, from
my experience, and from what I’m seeing on our web site’s
WOOD FORUM, woodworkers are going to wood shows
Apparently, woodworkers don’t have a monopoly on in record numbers to meet other woodworkers. Sure we
jigs. They are prized by fishermen, miners and, in the all go to the shows for the deals and seminars, but
case of “jiggers”, by drinkers, golfers, and sailors. have you noticed the camaraderie that’s building
among woodworkers?
I like finding ways of making jobs easier and, if As one woodworker said: “When I want to know
you knew all the jobs I do, you might even get the about a machine, I want talk to someone that has
idea that I like to work. However, when you find a one and uses it.” See for yourself on our web site –
way of making a job easier – like making a jig – then, woodworkers are doing research on various tools and
really, you are saving work! machinery, talking to the experts and narrowing down
their decision – and then they’re turning to their peers and
asking: “What do you think? What is your experience?”
Do you save your jigs? I am excited to learn that woodworkers
everywhere have made their own jigs. I imagine that you were It’s a great development and one that is continuing to grow.
going along and, one day, you came up with a jig so you could save (When we first started with the WOOD FORUM we rarely got
yourself a bit of work and get a project done in time. Of course, more than 1000 postings in one month. Now we’re getting close to
there were a lot of important things going on at the time . . . maybe a 1000 postings a week!)
you didn’t stop to realize just how ingenious that little jig is. Go on.
Check it out right now! This issue we are introducing a new feature called “ProTips” by
Hendrik Varju, to help you in your search for ways to improve your
woodworking skills.
Do you think another woodworker would be thrilled to try
out your jig? Your jig may not have a name and it may Hendrik is a fine furniture designer/builder and
even have seemed like a trivial little device, at the time, woodworking instructor. Hendrik draws from
but what if thousands of woodworkers across the extensive experience and has worked with all levels
country started using it? We’d have to name it after of woodworkers. He has practical tips to help you
you! improve your skills.
Over the next six issues Hendrik will provide you

So the jig is up. We know you’ve got those nifty with some very usable tips on the woodworking
little devices stowed away in your workshop. Send machinery that you are either currently using or
them to the Canadian Woodworking Jig Contest. working up to. The machines covered will include: the
In case you forget, when you get to the end of the table saw, the jointer, the thickness planer, the bandsaw,
magazine, you will see the contest announcement. That the drill press and the router. He will cover each in order
ought to jiggle your memory. (because as Hendrik says “that’s the order in which the
machines are generally used.”).
So read on. Whether you’re a beginner or an old pro, there’s

Note: “In my last editorial I welcomed the new Moncton Wood
always room to improve. And remember, “get out there” and pass
Show, but mentioned the wrong date . . . it is actually coming up on some of your own experience. Hopefully we’ll meet at one of
November 8, 9, 10, 2002. the wood shows. Until then, I’ll watch for you on the web!
LETTERS
deareditors
Dear Paul and Linda can be assembled at home for home fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
I am both pleased and amazed with the employment? Example: gluing, pegging, Love the FORUM, hate the CLASSI-
interest in my book as a direct result of my nailing etc. Please let me know. FIED. I enjoy browsing all the items for
ad in Canadian Woodworking Magazine. Marilyn Jones sale, but there must be a way to limit the
On one day alone in November 2001, I Marilyn_a_shinn@hotmail.com time that the ads are posted.
received 22 orders for my Wooden Puzzle Dan
Book. Orders come from far and wide – fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
many from the United States and many I am a wood crafter looking for sources Dear Dan:
from small remote communities in of various woods in BC and Alberta. I You hit the nail on the head with your
Canada. My book is already into the would appreciate any help you could give letter. We have noticed that some items are
second printing and I want you to know me in this area (ie mailing addresses, posted, sold and removed within hours.
how very impressed I am with the results email addresses, phone numbers of any Others, however, sit there for some time
of advertising in your magazine. Keep up suppliers etc.). I am most interested in oak, and take up space. We are currently
the good work! Many thanks, mahogany, walnut, cherry wood, maple looking for a new classified program that
Rea Gibson and birch. Thanks in advance. will delete ads after one month. Thanks for
P.S. I forgot to mention that your Bob Brown your feedback.
magazine was the only way that I have Scrollmates@telus.net
advertised my book! fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com Your WOOD FORUM is a great place
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com Would you happen to know where I for a beginner woodworker.
Hi. I have started scrolling and would could find a wholesale supplier for unfin- Regards,
like to know if you can give me an address ished wooden train whistles? Charles Porter, Nova Scotia
or some info on where in Canada I can Mary Rivers
send for clock fit-ups. River Craft 1-867-873-4874 Dear Charles:
Rob Burns Thanks for your letter. We have had
Dear Rob, Marilyn, Bob and Mary: similar letters from more advanced
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com Thanks for your email(s) looking for woodworkers saying it is a great place for
Would you know of any woodworking Canadian suppliers. Be sure to see this and them too! No matter how good you get at
companies that would have products that future issues of Canadian Woodworking your craft, you can always improve and
Magazine. Canadian suppliers are discov- benefit from the advise of others. We hope
ering that Canadian Woodworking is being that you continue to frequent the WOOD
read by woodworkers and crafters from FORUM as you advance in your skills.
DOWELMAX
Precision Engineered Dowel Jig
coast to coast, and that Canadian wood-
workers love to buy Canadian products! If fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
you don’t see what you’re looking for in I just purchased the Porter Cable
Create professionally made joints which are the magazine, then try posting your query cordless brad nailer at the Hamilton Wood
quick, easy, accurate and strong. on our web site’s WOOD FORUM. Show and I think it is the greatest thing to
Woodworkers from across Canada read use. It was so easy when building a project
the postings everyday and are eager to that I made on the weekend. It’s so
help out fellow woodworkers. Good luck convenient to use without any hoses. I
in your searches and hobbies. And remem- would recommend this product to anyone
ber, if you’re looking for anything related that uses a brad nailer.
to woodworking, start your search at: Blair Rody
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com
Dear Linda/Paul:
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com First, let me say that I enjoy your maga-
I am interested in learning wood carving, zine a lot. It has something for every
large and small birds in particular. woodworker’s taste. I have only been a
Ben Honeyman subscriber for 1 1/2 years, but did buy all
Abbotsford BC available back issues. I only wish I had
seen it sooner on the store magazine racks
Dear Ben: and I would have all the issues.
Your letter is very timely. We are in Secondly, I am writing to see if you
the midst of putting together an on-going would (or have) considered doing a yearly
carving column for the magazine. If you index? I’m sure it would be of great
Dowelmax is a versatile, adjustable jig that can be (or any Canadian Woodworking reader) benefit to many of us trying to find a
disassembled and re-arranged to accommodate know of an accomplished carver/instructor certain project or bit of information.
virtually any joint configuration. Accessories are
interested in contributing, please let us Have you ever considered setting up an
available to further expand the capabilities of the jig.
know. 800 phone line for all your long distance
readers and subscribers to call with
w w w. d o w e l m a x . c o m Editor’s Note: We are expanding and questions or address changes etc.?
Te l . 6 0 4 . 9 8 6 . 1 8 5 0 looking for contributors in several areas. If Thank you,
Fax 604.986.9406 you are interested in submitting something Dale McLin
for publication, please contact us.
4 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
Dear Dale
Thanks for your letter – great suggestions! We are hoping to get
to the annual index, but at this time it’s all we can do to just get the
magazine out and keep up with it’s growth.
As for an 800 #, we are deliberately avoiding that at this time and
encouraging email and web site interactions. It’s just a matter of
Tax Free
man-hours and at this end the phone is the least efficient method
for those types of transactions. We realize that everyone doesn’t
have a computer, but if we had an 800 # we’d never get onto our
computers!
Event!
A discount equivalent to the tax will be deducted from your tuition.
Dear Paul and Linda:
In the Dec/Jan 02 issue of your magazine, John Cryderman wrote Mark Eaton
Head Instructor
an article under WOODTIPS entitled “Inlay in Minutes”. Thank
you John! This article came at just the right time as I was building Take part in one of
two jewellery boxes and I wanted to dress them up a little. As you
can see by the enclosed photos, the boxes are made of aromatic the best learning
cedar with inlay of paduk, red heart and purple heart into bird’s eye experiences you could
maple (as was suggested in the article). It gave me just the effect have with your router.
that I wanted.
I have been a sort of wood worker for a long time but have not
had any formal training, so I fall short of having any of these tricks
at hand. Thanks again. I enjoy your publication. Classes available for all skill levels.
John Wilson
Aylmer ON 4 hour seminars, 1 day Hands On Router Basics
or full 5 day routing experience.
The choice is yours.
Classes
starting at just
$9.95
The National To book a
space call
Router Academy (905) 826-4720
or
Monday to (800) 370-3834
Saturday
10 am _ 5 pm
2900 Argentia Rd.

Unit #11 in Mississauga.
Just south of the
401 highway off
Winston Churchill Blvd.
www.NationalRouterAcademy.com

woodcraft BY GARNET HALL
The Saw Tie

E
very well-dressed woodworker #7 precision skip or double tooth/reverse
should have a wooden tie. This blade.
project is fun to make and even
more fun to wear. Assemble and check for fit.
This tie has some history. Two Use a “light box” to see where the places
of my wooden ties were are that are holding the pieces apart. Mark
hanging on the set of “Home them and sand or cut these places down.
Improvement” for a few years. This is one You can also use a piece of carbon paper
of them. I sent two ties to the show after between the pieces. The high spots will be
meeting Al at a wood show in the U.S. He marked by the carbon paper and you will
really liked them and thought Tim would know where to sand or cut.
too. I had high hopes they would actually Work away until you have all the pieces
wear them on the show, at least once fitting within a saw kerf.
anyway. They did display them on the set,
with each one hanging on either side of the Choose your backing.
window at the back of the set. Look for Backing for the tie can be leather, vinyl
them next time you see a re-run. or even canvas. You want to use a material
Wooden ties are fairly easy to make. This that bends easy and will last. Leather is the
one is the saw tie. best and, of course, the most expensive.
Heavy vinyl will wear out over time at the
Transfer the pattern to the wood. bend.
Start by transferring the project to the
wood. I like to make a template, but gluing Glue up.
the pattern pieces to the wood will also The next biggest problem is finding a
work. good glue to attach the wood to the leather.
I find a two-part epoxy for gluing leather to
Cut the pieces out. wood works the best. The next best is
Cut carefully and the pieces will fit contact cement and finally, Barge cement
better. A good blade is important. I like a (white carpenter’s glue will just peel off).
It is easier to apply the wood finish before
gluing the leather. It is also easier to glue
MATERIAL LIST the tie to a larger rectangle piece of leather
and, after the glue dries, trim off the excess
1pc. 2” x 2 1/2” (1/2” thick) - Red Wood leather with a sharp knife.
1pc. 2” x 4” (1/4” thick) - Red Wood I think you will have fun with this
project. It will get a lot of comments I can
1pc. 4” x 13” (1/4” thick) - White Wood guarantee it!
1pc. 4” x 5” (3/8” thick) - Dark Wood
The wood shades and species are only my GARNET HALL is an intarsia artist living in
1pc. 4” x 18” - Backing Material suggestions. Feel free to use other woods. Stoughton, SK. 1-800-729-2473 www.sawbird.com

Pattern reduced
to 55%.
Can be sized
to preference.
Attaching the Tie
• Make an attachment so that you can hang the tie

around your neck by drilling a 1/4” hole through
the knot, as shown in the diagram.
• Use a piece of 1/4” elastic about 16” long.
Glue Velcro pieces on each end with Velcro glue.
Measurements
• The blade part of the tie is 1/4” thick.
• The knot is 1/2” thick.
• The saw handle part is 3/8” thick
Wood Types
R - Red: Paduak, Bloodwood or Aromatic Cedar
W - White Aspen
DK - Dark: Western Red Cedar
O - Open (no wood)
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featureproject BY DANNY PROULX
Classic
Garden Bench
■ Photo Credit: Michael Bowie, Lux Photography, Ottawa, Ontario
During my research for the ideal bench, thin legs, curved arms, and delicate lines.
O
ften, one of I looked at some of the commercial The American style tended to be heavier
the most desired offerings at my local furniture store. Many in appearance with thick legs and flat wide
were light duty models made out of pine or arms. It makes a very strong visual
pieces of outdoor cedar. Others were high-end commercial statement.
furniture is a garden bench. models, made from teak and mahogany This garden bench is truly a North
and would certainly put my budget in a American classic with heavy 3” square
Many of us have just the tailspin. legs and thick, 1 1/2” arms. Stringers and
How do we get the quality of those seat slats also continue the theme as they
ideal spot for this project, be high-end commercial models without are constructed out of 1 1/2” thick
considering a second mortgage on our material.
it on the front porch so we homes? Well, as a woodworker we have There are many woods to choose from
can watch the world rush by, the option to build the project ourselves and, because I wanted a bench that would
with substantial savings and, most likely, last for years, I decided to use a hardwood.
on the back yard deck, or at a higher quality. First, decide on the Ash is a hardwood used in the cabinet
basic design and then choose the making industry because it resembles oak
even tucked away in a construction material. but has a tighter grain structure. It’s a
After looking at many styles I decided to heavy, durable wood that, when properly
secluded spot as part of the design and build a garden bench that protected, will stand up to a lot of abuse
garden setting. is considered more North American in and provide many years of useful service.
design. The English style seemed to have
BUILDING THE BENCH If the wood is cracked from STEP 8
STEP 1
Glue up 1 1/2” thick boards to form the
TIP poor air-drying, as was the case
with the ash that I was using,
Form the mortises in the rear legs. Prior
to cutting them, verify that their position is
then fill the voids with polyurethane glue the same on both back and front legs for
front and rear legs. Four pieces are needed the seat supports and leg rails.
for the two front legs. Each leg requires and a little sawdust. You’ll be able to sand
two boards at 1 1/2” x 3” x 24”. Each of the the area when the glue sets and eliminate
two rear leg blanks are formed by gluing STEP 9
a place where water can penetrate.
two 1 1/2” x 5 1/4” x 34” boards as shown. The back assembly must be inserted into
Mortise and tenon joinery is used the rear legs prior to attaching the front and
Use moisture cured polyurethane glue for
each of the blanks. throughout this project as it’s an ideal rear sections of the bench. First, we
joint to connect many of the need an upper back rail that has overall
MATERIAL LIST right angle intersections. Waterproof dimensions of 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 68”, cut as
shown. I created a curved template by
2 3” x 3” x 23 1/4” polyurethane glue proved to be an
marking lines parallel to each other, spaced
Front Legs excellent choice for all these joints. one inch apart, over an 8” run. Beginning
I opted to create thick material for the at 3” from the bottom, I marked a point on
2 3” x 3” x 32 1/2” legs by gluing 1 1/2” boards together. each line 3/8” higher than the last. This
Rear Legs slight upward curved template allowed me
This method is ideal, as I needed 5 1/2”
to mark the rail slope, starting at 10” from
1 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 68” wide by 3” thick wood blanks for the
each rail end.
Upper Back Rail curved rear legs. All the other pieces for
this bench are no more than 1 1/2” thick.
1 1 1/2” x 3” x 68” STEP 10
Lower Back Rail Cut the curve using a jigsaw and sand.
STEP 2
1 1 1/2” x 3” x 68” Dress the front legs to a finished size of
3” x 3” x 23 1/4”. STEP 11
Front Seat Rail Next, cut a lower back rail measuring
1 1/2” x 3” x 68”.
2 1 1/2” x 3” x 18” STEP 3
Lower Leg Rails Form a tenon on one end of each front leg
assembly that’s 3/4” high and 1 1/2” square STEP 12
2 1 1/2” x 3” x 18” on the centre of the leg. Using a router with a 1/2” straight cutting
Seat Supports bit or a table saw equipped with a dado
STEP 4 blade, plow a 3/4” wide by 1/2” deep dado
1 1 1/2” x 2 1/4” x 16 1/4” Next, mark and cut the mortises on the in the center of the upper back rail lower
Centre Support front legs as shown. side and top side of the bottom back rail.
These dadoes will accept the 3/4” thick
14 3/4” x 2 1/4” x 14” STEP 5 back slats.
Back Slats Sand the front legs and soften the edges
with a 1/4” round over bit in a router. Mortises can be cut in many
26 1/2 “ x 3/4” x 2 1/4”
Slat Spacers
STEP 6
TIP ways. If you have a dedicated
square chisel mortiser, it’s an
4 1/2” x 3/4” x 2 1/8” Layout the curved back leg assemblies on easy process. If you haven’t got access to
End Slat Spacers the 3” x 5 1/4” x 34” wood blanks as shown one of the machines, a drill press will
in the illustration.
allow you to make excellent round corner
5 1 1/2” x 2 3/4” x 71”
Seat Boards mortises. The tenon corners can be
STEP 7
rounded over with a wood file for a tighter
Using a bandsaw is the easiest way to cut
1 1 1/2” x 2 3/4” x 65” fit.
the back legs. However, it’s possible to
Front Seat Board
use a jigsaw that has a fairly long travel
2 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 21” distance if you haven’t got access to a STEP 13
Armrests bandsaw. After cutting, clamp the legs Form the two 1/2” thick by 1 1/2” wide
together and sand so they will be the same by 2” long tenons on each end of the upper
Lumber Stock size. and lower back rails.
9 2” x 4” x 8’
Front Legs, Lower Back Rail,
Front Seat Rail, Lower Leg
Rail, Seat Support, Seat Slats
3 2” x 6” x 8’
Rear Legs, Upper Back Rails,
Armrest
2 1” x 3” x 10’
Back Slats STEP 6 STEP 7

1 square = 1"
10"
5 1/2"
2" 3"
UPPER BACKREST RAIL

1 1/2"
upper
backrest rail rear leg
armrest
backrest slats
2 angled
pocket screws
fastened
under
arm rest
filler
strips
seat slats front leg
seat support
lower backrest rail
3/4" wide x 1/2" deep dado
front seat rail
2"
36" radius
2 1/2"
*all mortises are
lower side 1/2" wide x 2" long x 1 9/16" deep 2"
rail centered
17"
3/4"
14"
23 1/4"
FRONT SEAT RAIL
3" 2" 2" 2"

2"
1 1/2" 6 1/2"
6 1/2"
1/2" 15 1/2"
21"
7" 10"
2" 2"
5 1/2"
3" 3 1/2" 3 1/2"
3" radius
ARMREST FRONT LEG BACK LEG
front view front view side view
Illustration by Len Churchill

STEP 14 However, we will scribe and cut a curve Cut the mortise first. Then,
Prepare 14 back slats at 3/4” thick by 2
1/4” wide by 14” long. You will also need
for the seat slats in the next step. These
supports are initially cut at 1 1/2” x 3” x
18” with two tenons at 1/2” thick by 1 1/2”
TIP using a file, form the slightly
oversized tenons until they fit
to cut 26 slat spacers at 1/2” x 3/4” x 2 1/4”
deep by 2” long. After forming the tenons, snugly into their respective mortises. This
long. As well, four spacers at 1/2” x 3/4” x
2 1/8” long are needed. These shorter reduce the depth of each by 1/4” to clear procedure insures strong joints.
pieces are the first and last spacers on the the intersecting joint of the front seat rail
upper and lower rails. and lower back support rail.
STEP 25
STEP 15 STEP 20 Space the seat boards at 1/4” starting
Insert the spacers and slats into the upper Mark a point at the center of the seat from the rear. This spacing will force the
and lower back rails. Beginning at one end, support, 2 1/4” up from the bottom. Using front seat board to overhang the front seat
insert a 2 1/8” spacer with glue and a small a stick compass with a 36” radius, draw a rail. Attach the seat boards using one 2”
brad nail from behind to hold the spacer curve. Cut both supports using a bandsaw screw per seat support rail, for a total of
until the glue sets. Remember to use or jigsaw. Clamp the two pieces together three screws per board. The front board has
galvanized brads. Next, install a slat, then a and sand smooth. five 2” screws with the two extra being
2 1/4” spacer and so on. Work on the upper between the center and outside seat
and lower rail, securing each spacer and STEP 21 supports. Fill the counterbored holes with a
slat as they are installed until all the parts Round over the bottom edges of the seat wood plug and sand flush.
are attached. The last piece on each rail is supports.
the 2 1/8” spacer. Assemble the back to the
rear legs.
STEP 22
Attach the front and rear assemblies with
STEP 16 the lower leg rails and the seat supports.
A front seat rail to join the two front legs Glue and clamp in position.
is required. This rail measures 1 1/2” x 3” x
68” and has a tenon on each end as STEP 9
illustrated. Round over the bottom edge. STEP 23
Because the seat boards span almost six
feet, a center support rail will be installed.
STEP 17 This rail is first cut at 1 1/2” x 2 1/4” x 16
Attach the two front legs to the front seat 1/4” long. We want to duplicate the seat
rail. If available, use an 8’ pipe clamp to support curve so we’ll begin the radius line
secure the assembly until the glue dries. 3/4” in from the front to a point that is 1/2”
short of the back edge. The back is also
STEP 18 angled to meet the lower back rail. Lay a
STEP 12
Cut two lower leg rails at 1 1/2” x 3” x straight edge from seat support to seat
18”. Each end of these rails has a tenon at support to determine the correct position of
1/2” thick by 1 1/2” deep and 2” long. the center support board. Attach the center
After cutting the tenons, round over all support with glue and screws. Counterbore
edges with a 1/4” round over bit in a router. the screw holes and insert wood plugs.
Test fit the joints and reference each with a
witness mark for later assembly. STEP 24
Cut six seat boards. Five are 1 1/2” thick
STEP 19 by 2 3/4” wide by 71” long and the sixth,
which is the front board, is trimmed to 65” STEP 14
We now need two seat supports, which
are exact copies of the lower rails. long to fit between the front legs. Sand and
round over the top edges.
STEP 20
STEP 22

STEP 26 STEP 29 CONSTRUCTION NOTES
The armrest is formed from a board After completing the mortise and
1 1/2” thick by 5 1/2” wide and 21” long. verifying the fit is correct, sand and round I tested various methods of attaching the
Layout the pattern on the board as shown over the upper and lower surfaces of both arm to the rear legs. Using a mortise and
and cut the arm. arms. Round over the front curve but do tenon would be fine but the rear leg angle
not round over the angled end. could cause fitting problems. Dowels are a
STEP 27 good alternative, but I found the pocket
The armrest is slightly angled where it STEP 30 screw method to be the easiest and most
meets the back leg. I found our angle to be Drill two countersunk pocket holes on accurate.
eight degrees, however I suggest that you the underside of each arm in the end where There are areas where two mortise and
determine the best angle for your bench. the arm meets the rear leg. Pilot drill these tenon joints intersect. It depends where
Lay a level board across the front leg on the holes so they exit in the middle of the arm’s you place the back assembly mortises. You
shoulder beside the tenon. Mark a line on back end. Apply glue to the mortise as well can move the joints slightly towards the
the board where the back leg intersects. as the back surface of the arm and attach rear of the leg to avoid this situation,
Measure the angle and cut each armrest. with two 2 1/2” screws through the pocket however, I prefer to trim one of the tenons
Make sure you place the arm correctly holes. Clamp the front joint. during dry fitting.
when cutting the angle as you are creating Ash is a nice hardwood to work with for a
a right and left side. project of this type. The boards for this
Use a stop block. Clamp a
STEP 28 TIP board on the line where the top

surface of the arm meets the
chair had been air dried for a couple of
years and did have some checks and
cracks. However, because I was gluing
Next, place each arm in its final position stock for the legs, I could choose the best
on top of the leg tenon and mark the back leg. This will prevent the arm from
outside surfaces.
mortise outline. There will be a slight error creeping upward as you tighten the Use exterior rated fasteners and glues.
in the mortise position because the arm is pocket screws. I found the polyurethane glue to be an
not in its final position (it’s higher by the excellent choice for this project. It set up in
height of the tenon). Take this error into a reasonably short time and the joints were
account when cutting the mortise. The arm STEP 31
Your classic garden bench is now ready solid.
will move slightly forward in the final
home position after the mortise is for final sanding and finishing. DANNY PROULX is a woodworking author and teacher.
www.cabinetmaking.com or
completed. email danny@cabinetmaking.com
STEP 23 STEP 27 STEP 30
Nova 3000 Lathe Super Nova

Chuck
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tooltest BY GRAHAM MCCULLOCH
Freud obvious use being that of edge-trimming We like the idea of a crepe sandpaper
There are literally hundreds of laminates such as melamine, it is also a cleaner pad being incorporated into the
commercially built router tables to choose mini-router. Sander Sitter and it did clean the sanding
from and most of them are very good. There have been many times that I have discs quite well.
Some woodworkers, however, prefer to found a large plunge router just too wieldy We give the $24.95 Canadian-made
make their own because they want to to use in tight spaces. In such cases the Sander Sitter ★★★★s.
customize the under-frame or cabinet. TR-31 would really fit the bill. Its compact
Freud has solved the problem and come size makes it real easy to handle. I chucked
up with an interesting compromise. The an ogee router bit into it and easily put a
new Freud Router Table Top is a large fancy edge on some 3/4” oak.
32” x 24” melamine laminated top that is a
full 1” thick and melamine backed for
stability. The new table top includes a
recessed aluminum 3/4” x 3/8” ‘T’ miter
slot and a universal mounting plate. What
a perfect way to top off your own custom-
built router cabinet.
For even more accuracy, add the
optional Freud SH-5 Micro-Adjustable
Router Table Fence system to it (a
★★★★★ rating in Canadian Woodworking
June/July 2001) and you have got yourself
one heck of a good router table. As a The TR-31 comes with a 10’ power cord
bonus, Freud includes plans for a basic and two transparent plastic bases. The
plywood base. smaller one is designed for trimming and
The instructions that come with the the larger base, with its two control
RTT-01 say to clear coat the MDF edges if handles, is used for conventional routing.
you plan to use the Router table in damp The TR-31 does not have a shaft lock on
areas. We think that this should have been it, therefore, it requires two (included)
done in the manufacture of the table top. wrenches for bit changing.
All in all, we think that the RTT-01 is a For $139 at Home Depot, (Ryobi Tools Correction:
★★★★ router table and a good beginning are sold exclusively by HD) the ★★★★ In our Feb/Mar 02 issue the rating of the
for a custom-built Router Station. TR-31 delivers a big bang for your buck. Craftex Spindle Sander was incorrectly
shown as a three star tool. It should have read
★★★★s.
Sander Sitter
We have been wanting to try one of these Editor’s Note:
Sander Sitters for some time now. They The HiPURformer polyurethane glue in the
have been featured at most of the wood tubes (reviewed Feb/Mar/02) may harden at
shows during the last year and we finally the nozzle after periods of non-use. The
got our hands on one. people at Franklin International tell us that
First and foremost, the Sander Sitter is this is normal due to moisture absorption. It
a time saver. Waiting for a random orbital is easily corrected by drilling into the end to
allow the hot glue to blend with the hardened
Ryobi sander to stop spinning before you can set
portion.
The new Ryobi is keeping its engineers it down is a real pain. The Sander Sitter
pretty busy. It seems that at least once a has come to the rescue. We tried four
month there is a new power tool being brands of 5” sanders (Porter-Cable,
DeWalt, Ryobi and Black & Decker) in the GRAHAM McCULLOCH is a woodworker and writer
made available. living in Halifax, NS.
Ryobi is filling a nice niche in the tool Sitter and although it does keep the (902) 479-0221 graham@shortcuts.ns.ca
business. They are making excellent sanders relatively still, there is some
movement at first. However, after time (a TOOL TEST RATING SYSTEM
quality tools at “weekend woodworker”
prices. This latest issue is an excellent couple of weeks of use) we found that the ★ ..............below average quality
sawdust filters into the bearings of the ★ ★ ...........average quality
example.
★ ★ ★ ........very good quality/value
The Ryobi TR-31 is a 3/4 HP Laminate carousel and the movement becomes
★ ★ ★ ★ .....excellent quality/value
Trimmer/Router with a 1/4” collet and minimal. Noise was a factor at first but the
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ..top of the line
turns at 23,000 RPMs. Aside from its sawdust cures that too.
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WOODWORKING NEEDS

woodturning BY PAUL ROSS
Introduction to
Hollow
Turning
T
here are many forms Start with a sphere shaped between emphasize that there are many ways of
centres (photo #1). Turn a spigot to grab hollowing out the inside. This is one, very
and techniques for with the chuck so that you can go in simple explanation of this process. It is
through a hole on the tailstock end. Next simply a bar with an outrigger wing on the
hollow turning and mount the sphere securely in the chuck. side of the bar. The cutting end rides on
this introduction will only Use the tailstock to line it up. Then drill your tool rest and the outrigger end sits
out the middle, with a drill chuck in the trapped between two stabilizing bars.
take a quick look at one of tailstock (photo #2). These stabilizing bars eliminate any
As I’ve explained in past issues, this does vertical twisting. This is a very effective
them. Once you try hollow a couple of things for us: it gives the tool a system, especially for thin-walled and
place to fall into and it helps to set the larger pieces. This setup can be seen in
turning, you may want to depth of the piece. While drilling out the photo #3. Basically, the inside is just
look into it a little further. centre, get rid of as much bulk as possible. scraped out with this hollowing bar to the
This will cut down on your tool work on desired thickness.
the inside. The piece that I’ve done here is a sphere
The tool I am using here is often referred body of spalted maple. I used a contrasting
to as a “captive bar” hollowing rig. I must piece of wood on the top to slightly close
1 2 3
4 5 6

the hole. Cut the outside of the insert for Remove the tailstock and cut the top The overall thickness of the piece can be
the top (photo #4). Then cut across the face thinner and shape it (photo # 9). taken down to as thin as 1/16” using this
of the inside of the top (photo #5). Shape Turn off the bottom (photo #10). I captive bar type of setup. I used a laser
the inside surface to the outside surface of usually suggest holding the piece in a pointer to measure wall thickness and
the sphere, so that the top sits flush, 1/8” vacuum chuck to turn the bottom. This turned the piece very thin so that I could
around the hole in the sphere. time, let’s look at another method of pierce parts of the vessel with a dental hand
Part the top off the waste block (photo sanding the bottom (photo #11). Work drill. Express your creative side at this
#6). Glue the top on to the sphere, using the through the grits with a velcro sanding pad point and explore different texturing and
tailstock as a clamp (photo #7). For this held in a drill press, or sand the entire piece carving techniques.
article I used “cynoacrylite” glue because off the lathe using this method. By trying
it sets fast. You could also use wood/ different methods you will develop your PAUL ROSS owns and operates Chalet Woodcraft and
teaches woodturning in Boston, Ontario.
carpenter’s glue and leave it clamped versatility. (519) 443-5369 www.chaletwoodcraft.com
overnight.
Use a 9-in-1 tool to form a bead where
the top meets the sphere (photo #8). A
“9-in-1” tool is a very versatile tool. It can
be used like a tiny skew, or like a tiny sheer
scraper to form sharp and crisp beads and
“V” cuts. What you are doing here is a
little detailing to take your eye away from
the joint.
7 8
9 10 11
4 Jaw Scroll Faceplates

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woodenpuzzle BY REA GIBSON
Magic Four Puzzle
T
he object of this puzzle is When you have solved the puzzle, see
to make up five shapes how may more interesting shapes you
with the four pieces. Cut can make from the four magic pieces!
out the four shapes from
3/8” or 1/2” material and REA GIBSON owns and operates Forest Hill Studios
and lives in Mount Forest, Ontario.
apply a good finish. email:egibson@golden.net

A SPACE SAVING, RELIABLE AND ACCURATE WORK STATION
Titebond Wood Glue

protips BY HENDRIK VARJU
The Table Saw

S
AFETY TIP: more important to line up the actual teeth QUALITY TIP:
The best advice I can give about of the blade to the cut line. Do not, for One of the things most people have
safety is to use your blade guard. example, count on your rip fence distance difficulty with is getting perfect 90-degree
This is a safety feature ignored settings for an accurate rip cut. Measure crosscuts. You definitely need to set your
by many people, especially from the teeth of the blade to the fence with mitre gauge exactly 90 degrees to the blade
professionals. an accurate tape measure. And measure or mitre slot. Using a crosscut sled is even
You might notice, however, that some both at the front of the blade and the back better, because it is always 90 degrees – if
professionals have only 8 or 9 fingers. And to ensure that your fence is parallel to the you build it right. However, what most
if professionals lose a finger from time to blade. people don’t realize is that their hands are
time, think about the odds for an amateur. not strong enough to hold the workpiece
It isn’t the blade guard cover that is of tight to the mitre gauge as the saw cuts.
such importance – if you are wearing Between the vibration of the machine and
safety goggles. The anti-kickback fingers
are very helpful and, in some
circumstances, do prevent kickback. But
the splitter at the back of the blade guard is
absolutely vital for ripping operations. To
understand why, you need to understand
“ Kickback occurs when
the leading edge of the board
that is being ripped drifts
the cutting forces of the blade, the work
piece will often slide laterally while
cutting.
Some people like to apply sandpaper to
their mitre gauge. I prefer to clamp the
work piece to the mitre gauge or crosscut
”
why kickback occurs. away from the fence. sled with a one-handed quick clamp. It
Kickback occurs when the leading edge may seem like wasted time, but it takes
of the board that is being ripped drifts away about five seconds and ensures a perfect
from the fence. The rising teeth at the back cut every time – assuming that your set-up
of the blade catch the bottom of the board Some blades have teeth that just point is correct. Perfect cuts aren’t as important
and send it flying upwards. Then the straight ahead, in which case you can if you’re just cutting deck boards, but this
bottom of the board skates across the top measure to any of the teeth. However, technique is essential for accurate joinery.
teeth of the spinning blade. The board is many blades have teeth that alternate in
violently thrown upwards and to the left. If direction, sometimes interspersed with
straight-pointing teeth (called “rakers”). If Next issue Hendrik gives tips on using
you’re lucky, it will fly over your left
your blade’s teeth alternate, choose a tooth your jointer.
shoulder. If you’re not, it can hit you in the
face, chest, stomach, etc. The speed of the that points farthest towards the rip fence
flying object is so fast that you will not and measure to that tooth. The teeth that
HENDRIK VARJU is a Fine Furniture Designer & Builder
know it is coming. It happens in a split point the other way or point straight ahead in Acton, Ontario. (519) 853-2027
second. The splitter keeps the leading edge will not provide an accurate measurement. www.passionforwood.com email: info@passionforwood.com
of the board from drifting away from the

fence.
The worst thing you can do is to rip
rough-sawn boards without a splitter. Such
boards are so rough and often bowed or
twisted, that they will dance all over the
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To make your cut exactly where you want
it, it is important to ensure correct set-up of www.sharpco.ca
your rip fence and mitre gauge. It is even A National Wholesaler and Retailer of Premium Quality Carbide Woodworking Cutting Tools
Visit our website at:www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 21
toolreview BY CARL DUGUAY
Table Saw Blades

Table Saw Blades: a chip limiter materials such as MDF or melamine,
Combination and Crosscut precedes each running a dull blade, feeding stock too slow,
Buying a new table saw blade can be a tooth, restricting removing too much material at one time,
daunting experience. There are dozens of tooth bite to a using the wrong blade for the type of
manufacturers offering a wide selection of pre-determined material being cut, saw fence not properly
blades. On top of this, there are a host of safe amount. aligned or inadequate horsepower on your
factors that affect the performance of The business end Exchange-A-Blade table saw. Paying attention to these factors
a blade: quality of the steel used in of a saw blade is its Razor Back will help you get better performance from
manufacturing the plate, the hardness and teeth. Tooth geometry, quality of the carbide your blade.
flatness of the plate, plate tension and used, thickness of the carbide and the quali- There are hundreds of different saw blade
balance, arbour hole concentricity and ty of the brazing that attaches the teeth to the styles and sizes available. The SystiMatic
accuracy, tooth geometry, and carbide plate are all critical components. Teeth catalogue, for instance, lists 147 table saw
quality. for ripping (also called “raker teeth”) are blades. Blades are advertised in three
I recently looked at some of the more generally cut “flat top grind” (FTG), and rip grades: economy, contractor and industrial
popular combination and crosscut blades through stock like tiny chisels. Crosscutting (which use the best material milled to
from several of the leading manufacturers. teeth are cut “alternate top bevel” (ATB), the highest tolerances). They come in
What I found was that competition among and slice across the grain like knives. Two various styles, the most common being:
manufacturers has generally resulted in important tooth angles are the angle at combination, crosscut, rip and dado. You
overall high standards: all the blades I which teeth cut into will find blades in either a standard plate
looked at delivered very good performance stock (hook angle), thickness (.080” - .090”) and as thin kerf
and value. The differences were less and the angle the blades (around .060”). Thinner blades may
between “poor” and “high” quality than top of the tooth be desirable if you have a low horsepower
between varying levels of high quality. makes from side to table saw (1 1/2 hp or less) or if you are
The majority of blades are laser cut rather side (top bevel). SystiMatic 37102 concerned about wasting as little stock as
than hydraulically stamped (or die cut). Greater hook possible. Under sustained use, thin kerf
Laser cutting puts less stress on the plate, angles cut faster and more aggressively but blades may heat more easily than standard
particularly at the edge, and allows greater can result in splintering the underside of blades, which could lead to plate warping.
cutting accuracy. All plates are heat treated stock, particularly in sheet goods. Raising As well, the carbide teeth are smaller than
and tempered to toughen the steel, usually in the blade about 1/4” above the stock helps to on a standard blade, and hence they cannot
an oil bath, although SystiMatic uses a reduce splintering. be re-sharpened as often, which, to some
saline solution. The plates are also run Increasingly, companies are using “super extent, offsets their lower cost.
through a grinder for flattening and then micrograin” carbide in the manufacture of Crosscut blades are designed to produce
tensioned to prevent them from vibrating at teeth, which means they use smaller grains clean, crisp crosscuts in solid wood and
high speeds. Tenryu and SystiMatic ten- of carbide powder with titanium added to plywood. They come in a variety of
sion plates by hand (Exchange-A-Blade the binder. This makes for a tooth that can configurations, though the norm seems to be
hand tensions its re-conditioned blades). hold an edge longer between sharpening. 60 to 80 teeth in an ATB tooth grind with
Even with flattening and tensioning there The blades that I tested use C4 carbide, a hook angle in the +10 degree range.
will likely be some runout (wobble) in which looked well machined, with the Combination blades allow you to perform
blades; up to .004” is considered acceptable. honing on the CMT, Forrest and Tenryu both ripping and crosscut functions with the
Vibration and heat build-up blades almost mirror like. Teeth are brazed same blade. They typically have 40 or 50
are the bane of saw blade onto the plate with a low melt alloy, teeth in an ATB grind plus an FTG (raker)
manufacturers. Most cut anti- generally silver alloy. Some companies use tooth with a 15-degree hook. Usually you’ll
vibration and expansion slots Tri-Metal Brazing, which see four teeth with small gullets followed by
in their plates; a few fill these sandwiches layers of copper a tooth with a deep gullet, which serves to
slots with a resin. The slots between a layer of silver remove sawdust rapidly. Some combo
reduce vibration and noise, alloy, reducing stress and blades use a triple chip grind (TCG), which
and help dissipate heat. giving better impact is a FTG tooth with the sides of the teeth
Forrest recommends the use resistance. The brazing on bevelled at the top. This helps to eliminate
of blade stiffeners, which help Tenryu all the blades in my test chipping in brittle material and sheet stock.
to reduce blade vibration and PR25580 looked smooth and even Combination blades are designed to do a
noise, and contribute to CBN without any pinholes. In good job for general sawing. When ripping
producing a smoother cut. A general, thicker teeth will Forrest
Woodworker II with a combo blade it is a good idea to use
few companies, notably CMT and allow you to sharpen relatively slow feed rates and limit your cuts
SystiMatic, put a non-stick coating (such as the blade more often – I expect to get at to 2” and under. You can use a combo blade
Teflon) on the plate to help reduce heat least 10 sharpenings per blade. A general for occasional ripping of sheet stock.
build-up. Fortunately resin build up only principle is that the more teeth on a blade the However, if you will be cutting a lot of
occurs on the teeth and is pretty easy to smoother the cut. melamine you might want to invest in a
clean with pitch remover or oven cleaner. Excessive heat build up is one of the melamine blade, which uses a high
You’ll see that most combination blades leading causes of tooth deterioration. Heat alternate top bevel (H-ATB) grind with a
use an anti-kickback design. Typically build up can result from cutting abrasive 0-degree hook angle.
Testing the Forrest WW2 and Tenryu were so For the weekend woodworker or for
I tested 11 blades (6 combo and 5 cross- smooth that I felt that I could go directly to someone doing rough carpentry, the
cut) on an Inca saw. Prior to beginning the glue up. In ripping sheet stock there was Exchange-A-Blade makes good sense
tests I checked the alignment on my miter minimal tear out with all the blades, with for a combo blade. They are very
gauge, rip fence and arbor shaft. I used a the least from the CMT, Forrest and competitively priced and you can get them
blade stiffener on all blades, making the Tenryu. re-sharpened at just about any hardware
same number and type of cut with The cuts made by the crosscut blades store. For the serious woodworker or in a
each blade. For the combo blades I made were very impressive. In particular I found professional shop the CMT, Forrest
rip and crosscuts in plywood, melamine, that the Tenryu and Forrest blades left WW2 or Tenryu combo blades are a good
fir and ash. For the crosscut blades I virtually no teeth marks. You can see what bet, and priced within a few dollars of each
restricted my test cuts to fir and ash. For I mean from Photo 5, which shows final other.
cuts in softwood and sheet stock I raised samples from the five crosscut blades. For finish cross cutting the Forrest
the blade 1/4” above the stock. For Duraline or Tenryu blades are
hardwood I raised the blade 1” and fed at unsurpassed. I like the much larger teeth
a faster rate. I took a fresh cut with each on the Forrest blade, and the fact that you
blade, tested them all, and then took a final will get more sharpenings from it helps
cut. offset its premium price.
All the combo blades produced very
good cross and rip cuts, with the CMT, The CMT, SystiMatic and Exchange-A-
Forrest WW2 and Tenryu blades coming Blade finishes were virtually
out the smoothest. The rip cuts made by indistinguishable from one another.
Exchange-A-Blade
Combination Blades 604-526-4595 www.exchangeablade.com
Exchange-A-Blade SYSTIMATIC CMT Forrest Forrest Tenryu
1016832 (Razor Back) 37102 215.050.10 WW1 WW2 GM25540
# of Teeth 50 50 50 60 40 40
Style ATB 4ATB+1FTG 4ATB+1TCG ATB ATB ATB SystiMatic
Rake 25˚ 15˚ 12˚ 5˚ 20˚ 20˚ 800-387-7681 www.iksinc.com
Top Bevel 20˚ 20˚ 20˚ 30˚ 15˚ 15˚
Plate Thickness .070 .085 .087 .062 .087 .087
Kerf .125 .131 .126 .110 .125 .126
Tooth Length .218 .250 .218 .312 .312 .187 CMT
www.cmtusa.com - Order online www.carbide.com
Price $69.99 $90 $118 $158 $129 $130
Cross Cut Blades (photos at right)

Exchange-A-Blade SYSTIMATIC CMT Forrest Tenryu
1013872 (Pro Cabinet) 37426 219.080.10 Duraline HI-AT GM25540 Forrest
800-229-4814 www.forrestblades.com
# of Teeth 80 80 80 80 80
Style ATB ATB+AFB 4ATB+1TCG ATB ATB
Rake 10˚ 15˚ -5˚ 20˚ 20˚
Top Bevel 20˚ 30˚ 30˚ 40˚ 15˚
Plate Thickness .080 .080 .098 .087 .087 Tenryu 859-282-8158
www.tenryu.com - Order online www.carbide.com
Kerf .125 .104 .118 .125 .118
Tooth Length .250 .218 .218 .312 .187 CARL DUGUAY is a writer and woodworker from
Sidney, British Columbia. 250-888-5067
Price $81.99 $156 $152 $201 $116 carl@finewoodworking.ca www.finewoodworking.ca
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woodjigs BY LOU PEETERS
Countertop
Connector Jig
I
recently had the challenge of attachments for making this, or other jigs, because the router bit requires dedicated
making cabinets for a ninety-foot with the router. The template guide bits, whereas the template guide allows the
yacht. The cabinets were larger attaches to the auxiliary sub-base of your use of different bits. Note that the cost of
than the actual door into the room. router, usually with a nut (photo #1). standard straight router bits (used with the
This meant that everything had to One important aspect of the template template guide) is less than the cost of
be knocked down and assembled guide and the auxiliary sub-base is the bearing guided router bits. This is an
on site and I needed to find something to sizes they will take. If you plan on using important factor if you are doing a lot of
hold the joints together tightly, once the your router with many different jigs then, cuts and replacing bits frequently.
cabinets were assembled. For this, I used a when you are looking for a router, look for What I enjoy most about template guides
countertop connector jig. one that accepts universal hole sizing. Of is using them with my own jigs. There are
Before I get to the connector jig itself, course, if your router does not have many operations you can make jigs for,
I want to take a look at the template guide, universal sizing, you can still use the jig, including siding dovetails, mortising butt
which is one of the most useful but it will mean that you have to get the hinges and inlay work jigs.
template guide custom machined at a local
machine shop. You can avoid this expense
in the long run by buying a router with
universal hole sizing and universal
templates.
Universal hole sizing will give you the
greatest versatility in using jigs from a
variety of sources.
The template guide rides against your jig.
It is worth noting that the same operation
1 can be performed using a bearing on a 4
Template guide. router bit. Although the bearing router bit Tighten the countertop connector bolt
works well, I prefer using a template guide with wrench.
2 3 5
Router and jig are positioned to make the Countertop connector jig. A stained piece with and unstained peice
cut. to show how tight the joint is. The joint is
now hidden on the other side.
MAKING THE COUNTERTOP
CONNECTOR JIG
Now lets take a look at the countertop
connector jig (photo #3). Check on a
mitre under your kitchen countertop and
you will probably see this cut. It helps
to hold the joint together. It is not an
attractive joint but it can be very useful
when parts have to be assembled on site.
To make the jig, cut the slot with your

jig saw, so that the slot is the same size
as your template guide (see diagram on
right & photo #2).
Use a 1/2” router bit to a 7/16” depth.

Do both mating parts. Countertop
connectors are available at your local
hardware store (photo #4).
You will be most impressed with the

tight joints you can achieve with this jig
(photo #5).
LOU PEETERS is a professional cabinetmaker and

seminar presenter, living in
Woodstock, Ontario. (519) 539-1437

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easyproject BY STEVE SIDDALL
Buddy
Bench
T
his “catchy” child’s bench is screw size you like best. I happened to
the perfect place for that have lots of #6 x 1 1/4” so I drilled and MATERIAL LIST
favourite teddy bear buddy to countersunk the screws to allow the use of
rest. 3/8” flat head plugs. 2 11 1/8” x 20” x 3/4”
Bench End
Pine has been the material of Prior to assembly, sand all surfaces to
choice for many of the projects we’ve been remove any milling marks from the 2 3 1/2” x 20” x 3/4”
doing. It’s readily available, easy to cut, planing operation. I also removed the sharp Bench Seat
sand and finish and it’s economical when edges all around. I just don’t like sharp
compared to other woods. For this reason, edges because the finish never lasts long on 1 11 1/8” x 20” x 3/4”
head off to your favorite lumber yard and them.
find yourself the nicest 1” x 12” you can Bench Back
find for the back and sides of this project. Assemble your bench as shown with the 12 #6 x 1 1/4”
By positioning the two legs properly, you screws you chose and glue the plugs into
only need a 5’ piece. You’ll also need a 4’ place. After a final hand sanding and dust Wood Screws
piece of 1” x 4” for the seat bottom. removal, you are ready to finish any way
you wish. I stained and clear coated this 12 3/8”
Cut the two 20” 1 x 4s for the bottom and one in preparation for our baseball theme Wood Plugs
the 20” 1 x 12 for the back. After having wallpaper border. A good sealing coat is
visited your local photocopy shop to required for the paste to adhere properly. Optional
expand the leg/back support to full size, The beauty of wallpaper is that you can 20” wallpaper or border for bench
trace it twice on to the remaining 1” x 12” find almost any theme you wish at the local back.
and cut. wallpaper shop.
Since you never know who is going to do Another short and simple project that
something foolish (like stand on it) I prefer makes a great gift for children, new parents STEVE SIDDALL is president of Workshop Supply Inc.
to screw this project together. Choose the or teddy bear collectors. 1-800-387-5716 www.workshopsupply.com

kidsproject BY RICK CAMPBELL
Bird
Feeder
The Challenge from one
My woodworking skills have been put to edge – trim
the test many times by clients with unusual a little off
requests for custom projects, but my latest each side
challenge came from a very unexpected to remove
source, my 10-year-old daughter’s Girl the curved
Guide troop. My assignment was to design p r o fi l e
a simple project that could be completed in milled on
an evening by 9 to 12 year old kids with the edges at
absolutely no woodworking skills – not an the factory.
easy task to say the least. With this done you can
After considering my options I decided it begin cutting the sides, back, top and
was best to keep it simple and go with a bottom parts to length. To avoid measuring
traditional style bird feeder. I got down to for each piece clamp a stop block to the
work designing a version that would be fence, then position the stop block and
both easy and economical for the kids to fence the appropriate distance from the
build. I made sure that all the parts were no blade to establish the length of cut (photo
more than 5” wide so I could use standard 1). Be sure the stop block is located far
cedar fence boards for the material. Cedar enough to the front of the saw so that the
is a good lumber choice for outdoor piece is free when it hits the blade. This
projects and the fence boards are both easy will prevent the material from getting
to find and inexpensive. To avoid waste be jammed between the blade and the fence,
selective when buying your lumber – pass avoiding a potentially dangerous situation.
on any boards that are split or have loose
knots.
After completing the prototype I realized
that there would not be enough time at the
meeting for the kids to both cut out
the parts and assemble the projects. My
solution was to precut all the pieces, then
2
bundle them together into kits that the kids
could easily put together in an hour.
Now it’s time to cut a 1/4” deep slot on
Mass Production the inside face of each side piece to receive
Making the required number of kits one the Plexiglas insert. A standard saw kerf is
at a time was not an option, so I used some 1
plenty wide enough to accommodate the
common mass-production methods to save thin 1/16” thick plastic used for this
time. These techniques are useful to know project. Notice that the plans show that the
when faced with any job that calls for a Next cut the angle on the top of the side slot is cut at an angle to provide an area in
large number of identical pieces. pieces to form the roof slope. I did this at front of the Plexiglas window for the
Begin at the table saw by ripping enough the table saw using my miter fence tilted 10 seed to accumulate. Achieve the required
fence boards into 5” widths to complete all degrees. To be sure I had good support 10˚ angle by running the material over the
the feeder kits you will require. When you close to the blade I bolted an extension blade with the sloped edge of the side
do this don’t rip all the excess material board to my mitre fence (photo 2). pieces flush against the mitre fence.

I’ve learned from
experience that young
kids often have difficulty
pounding nails. They often
miss, which can be painful
for the fingers holding the
nail – particularly when those
fingers are my own. They also
have a problem preventing
the nails from bending or
going in crooked. To solve
3 these problems I decided to
drill pilot holes for the nails.
Remember that there are lefts and rights so The holes are drilled slightly
it will be necessary to make half the cuts to smaller than the diameter
the left side of the blade and half to the of the nails and are only
right so the slots match. The extension necessary on the outside face
board you added to your fence earlier is of the project parts. To speed
even more critical for safety now that you up the drilling process I made
are cutting along the length of the very a full-size hardboard template for each part at the top and the required number of
narrow side pieces (photo 3). to use as a pattern. galvanized nails bound with an elastic
With the saw blade tilted 10˚, bevel the band.
back edge of the roof panels to match the
angle cut on the top of the side pieces. Time for Assembly
Next, apply a decorative round-over to the On the night of the meeting we made sure
front edges of the roof parts at the router we had plenty of hammers, exterior grade
table using a 1/4” radius round-over bit. wood glue, rags and willing helpers to lend
The back panels receive a 1/2” diameter a hand. The parents and grandparents that
hole used for mounting the feeder and a turned out did a great job holding parts
1 1/2” diameter hole to provide access to together to keep them aligned while
fill the unit with birdseed. The plans show the kids pounded in the nails, but more
the correct position for each. Save time by importantly they made sure the kids had
making up a full size template to help you fun and worked safely.
quickly locate and mark the centre point of When the kids weren’t working on their
the holes. To avoid tear out when drilling bird feeders they had the opportunity to
it’s a good idea to stop short of the bottom, visit a supervised area where they could try
then finish the hole by boring through from their hand at using some other common
the other side. Complete the backs by hand tools such as a square, tape measure
slightly rounding the top corners at the and handsaw. Surprisingly, the kids
bandsaw for a more finished look. seemed to get a great deal of satisfaction
Next rip the bottom panels to the required from cutting all the way through a board
width but don’t discard the narrow scrap with a handsaw – most saved the scrap
you cut off. This piece will be the right size piece they cut off as a souvenir.
to serve as the perch on the front of the
feeder – there’s no waste with this project. With all the wood parts complete we can
now turn our attention to the Plexiglas
inserts. I cut mine using the table saw with
a standard 80-tooth combination blade
installed. Proper eye protection is
always essential in the workshop but is
particularly important when working with
Plexiglas because the material splinters
easily. Begin by ripping the Plexiglas into
4 1/4” widths then cut the inserts to length
using the stop block method described
earlier. With this done mark the opening on
the bottom, then cut it out using the scroll
saw. The plans show the location and size
of the opening. Once you have completed
one you can use it as a pattern for the
others.
To save time at the meeting we sorted the
parts, then bundled them together into
individual kits using shrink-wrap. In each
project kit we included a brief instruction
sheet complete with the Girl Guide logo

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BLADES ARE EXPENSIVE.

Who would you
trust yours wıth?
Who looks after your saw any product displaying the
blade really does make a Exchange-A-Blade logo. Take it
difference. With our unique home, use it and when it
exchange program, you are becomes dull or unusable The
guaranteed a superior product
every time!
for any reason, simply return
it to your local lumberyard,
irs
With other blades, you must Home Centre or hardware
first find a reputable sharpening dealer and walk out with
shop, leave your blade and a brand new replacement
trust it will be resharpened to under your arm. No hassle, no
the original manufacturer’s down-time, you’re in and out
specs. If you are lucky, you the door. Convenient, fast and
can return in a few days to
pick up your old blade, with all
fully guaranteed.
So as we said to start with,
Ours
it’s accumulated imperfections who would you trust with
your blade business?
With the Exchange-A-Blade
system, you simply purchase
www.exchangeablade.com
designtime BY HANK ETHIER
P
rior to the construction of assumes. The point is, don’t be afraid to techniques used in mass-produced
anything, from china cabinets to modify the plans to suit your needs, tastes furniture are not reproducible in the home
shelves, a blueprint or plan is or equipment. workshop. Indeed some of the practices
very helpful. Blueprints help used by manufactures are done so for ease
you to know what materials and Furniture brochures and catalogues give and speed of construction and are not
equipment you will need, help you to avoid you only one view of a unit and basic necessarily the best way to construct
making mistakes, and can be used to dimensions. You can still use this as furniture.
estimate the cost of your project. a reference. If the description gives
you the width, height, and depth, a Once you know how the unit goes
Where does one find such a thing? Ideas scale can be established from which together and you have a blueprint, it is
and plans can come from many places. other measurements can be closely advisable to make a layout diagram and a
There are countless woodworking books approximated. For example, if the width of material list. The layout diagram is a scale
and magazines with many of them having the unit is 1200mm and you measure the drawing of exactly how you will cut the
scale drawings. Furniture brochures and actual width in the picture at 40mm, you pieces out of your sheet material. This is a
catalogues can also be a source for plans. know the scale is about 1/30th. Armed with crucial step in determining the quantity of
You can even go down to a furniture store this scale, you can now measure the drawer material required. You can try different
and have a look for something that is close in the picture and multiply it by 30 to give ways of laying out the individual pieces
to what you want to build. you the real measurement. Be careful you require to give you the least waste and
though when you measure lines that are at easiest cutting pattern. Perhaps you can
The blueprints you find in magazines and steep angles to the line you chose when alter one dimension and save buying an
books are good for a start. They give you establishing the scale. They may give extra sheet for that one small piece that just
an idea of how the unit is constructed. a false reading. This is called won’t fit on one sheet.
However, you should still make an effort to “foreshortening”. The measurement will,
draw or sketch it again. This gives you the in reality, be longer than you have Once you know how much sheet material
advantage of having built it once in your calculated. you need, a material list can be made. This
mind. As you are drawing, you have to will include all items required to build the
visualize how it is assembled. If you can For those of us who have trouble unit including glue, nails, sandpaper, sheet
draw it, you can build it. Also, some of the visualizing how a piece of furniture goes materials, solid woods, stain, finish etc.
plans in magazines are made with the together, a trip to the local furniture store From this list you can arrive at a cost for
assumption that specific equipment will be is in order. Actually seeing how the your unit.
used to construct the unit. You may or may individual pieces are put together will
not have this equipment. Or, perhaps you help you to plan your own unit. Be HANK ETHIER is a furniture maker and refurbisher in
Prince Albert, SK. Tel. (306) 922-3323 Fax (306) 763-3739
have better equipment than the blueprint aware, however, that some construction email: ammena@sk.sympatico.ca
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questionsanswers BY JIM KOUDYS
Q I had someone purchase my bush lot.

They measured the trees and quoted
me a price on the trees. After they had
taken down the trees they cut them
that come from the same tree you will
see that, in log form, there is more board
feet. However, the buyer is always
taking a chance buying standing timber,
Q I have been looking for 2” quarter-sawn
oak but find that it’s difficult to get. I
have called several mills and few have
had any. The few that did have it were
into 8’ lengths. It seemed to me that there was since the tree may not yield the quality expensive. Any suggestions or help in this area?
more there than they had quoted. When I asked or quantity estimated. Buying standing
them about it, they said that they had quoted me timber also involves the work of taking
A
First you must understand that
on standing timber and not on the logs. What is it down and removing and bucking the getting “true” quarter-sawn
the difference? logs. When the timber is in log form, lumber (that is rings 90˚ to the
much of the work has been done and the face) is difficult at the best of times. As
buyer can tell the grade of the logs, sawing practices go, it results in the
A
When a buyer estimates
the value of standing timber, which means they are taking less of a greatest waste and it requires more
(that’s another name for trees) chance. It is easier to buy in log form. attention and labour to produce – hence
he measures around the tree at about The buyer is not obliged to buy all the the higher cost. Another factor, which
breast height and then estimates the logs and doesn’t have to take the bad affects the cost of quarter sawn, is that
height of the tree to where the last saw with the good. Sometimes buyers will the demand is not as great for it as it is
log is. The last saw log is usually where offer more per board foot in log form for regular flat sawn. This means that the
the tree has major branches, major than for standing timber since the mill must sit on the investment longer.
crooks or lightning damage. The height chances of recouping their investment is All of these factors contribute to making
will vary, but from that he uses a better. Anytime you have a potential cutting, selling and buying quarter sawn
standing timber scale to get an estimate buyer walk your bush, have at least two lumber less attractive than other cuts, for
of the amount of board feet in the tree. others walk and compare to make sure example, 4/4 which is in high demand.
Using the estimated board feet in the that the prices being offered are fair and 2” can be quartered, but nine out of ten
tree and the quality of the tree, he will reasonable. Be careful. The highest people just want to rip it down to 2x2s to
determine the price of the tree. When price isn’t always the best price. Always make table legs. Since only two faces of
buying logs, the buyer will measure the check the conditions of sale. Contact the legs can show quarter the other two
small end of the log and the length of the your local woodlot association and the faces are flat sawn. Instead, purchase 8/4
log to determine the board feet in each last person the buyer did work for. When flat sawn stock and rip it to 2”. You’ll get
log. Each log is then graded and a price it comes to having someone buy your the same result for less than half the
is determined. In the case of logs, the timber your best protection is education. cost.
buyer has a choice of different scales to The more you know about woodlot
use. The most commonly used scale is management, the better chance you have
called the Doyle scale. Whenever you of receiving a fair price and quality
compare the amount estimated in stand- work. JIM KOUDYS is the owner/operator of Kootur Lumber
in Smithville, Ontario. (905) 957-4217 jkootur@yahoo.com
ing timber and then measure the logs
Reasons you should be using
5 Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane

1. It dries so fast you can re-coat in as little as
2 hours
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5. You get cash back on the purchase of either a
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routertips BY MARK EATON
Spring Removal
A
s I mentioned in our last Step 3 Step 8
issue, I am always asked at Lay the router on it’s back with the lock Thread the large nut and the knurled slip
wood shows how I adjust mechanism down to the table surface. nut over the threaded rod and turn them
my router so easily. until they are about 3/4” from the top of the
Many woodworkers have Step 4 rod. Tighten with an adjustable wrench.
plunge routers mounted in their router With your body against the base plate, Your Router is now ready to mount into
tables and can’t adjust the height of the and your hands on the router, release the your table and will be much easier to adjust
routers as easily as they see me do it. lock mechanism. The base will press without the springs installed.
The reason: they have not removed the against you and will start to slide off.
springs from the plunge mechanism. I will, (photo #2) Safety Note: These instructions are
therefore, take you step-by-step through strictly the opinion of the author and
removing the springs from most of the do not reflect those of the
Step 5
common routers on the market. When there is no pressure against you, manufacturer. Always refer to your
owner’s manual for exploded views
grab the base and pull the base off. The
of your router and, if you don’t feel
This issue we will look at the Dewalt 625. springs will be hanging from the router. comfortable with these directions,
If you have another type of router watch (photo #3) do not remove your springs.
for it to be covered in future articles.
Step 6 MARK EATON is founder of The National Router Academy
Make sure that your router is always Begin pulling the springs out of the body www.nationalrouteracademy.com
nra@futureway.com
unplugged before attempting any and as you pull, bend them down a bit. This
procedures such a those listed in this will grab the two brass colored tubes inside Last issue: Removing the springs from
article. SAFETY FIRST! the springs. They are inside the springs to the Hitachi M12V
keep the springs from coiling up on
Step 1 themselves. (photo #4) Next issue: Removing the springs from
Lay the router on it’s back with the Porter-Cable 693
the threaded rod face up and lock it into Step 7
position. Slide the base back into the router body.
Make sure that the threaded rod slides over
Step 2 the horseshoe shaped body housing. With
Remove the large nut and the knurled slip your router on it’s back and the lock down
nut that are at the top of the rod. (photo #1) to the table, the two columns should slide
easily back into the body.
1 2
3 4 5

The Wood Shed
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dustcollection BY CHESTER VAN NESS
Dust Collector Fans

D
ust collector fans are available in steel, aluminum or plastic.
material handling fans and, Avoid the plastic impeller if there is risk of
ideally, they should be any large pieces passing through it. The 1
designed to withstand the aluminum impeller won’t create sparks
passage of not only saw dust if struck by metal debris, but it does
but also chunks of wood make the motor work harder. It lacks the
and, perhaps, the odd screw or nail. This is flywheel effect created by the heavier steel
the heart of your dust collector. Take impellers.
a good look at it before buying your The fan impeller used primarily in the air
collector. cleaner units is a “forward-curved” design.
Dust collector fans can be made of There are usually 24 to 64 blades. They
various materials including steel, cast operate at lower speeds than the material
aluminum and plastic. If you look at how a handling fans as they are just meant to
unit is constructed you may see that there move air. Because of their lower speed
are plastic or steel grids over the inlet and there is far less noise.
possibly the outlet openings. These grids
2
are there to stop you from putting your Fan Housing Construction
fingers into the impeller when the fan is You also need to consider the
running. However, they also cut down on construction of the fan housing. Can the air
the fan’s efficiency. In some instances, flow smoothly through the fan housing and
such as a plastic fan impeller, the grid is out the discharge without hitting any major
there to keep large pieces of wood from obstructions? Is the fan casing sealed so
hitting the blades and damaging the fan that fine dust can’t escape? Most of the
impeller. If the fan has these grids on the dust collector fan casings are of scroll type
suction or discharge side you won’t have and have squared corners. The discharge
too much luck sucking shavings away from end of the scroll is usually square
your thickness planer. In the case of one graduating to a round opening. Look and
fan we tested the grids were plastic and see how it is built. The more gradual the
resulted in the loss of about 40 cfm (cubic transition the better. As with any pipe
feet per minute) in flow for each grid. fitting for dust collection: the less 3
gradual the transition, the more the
Fan Impeller Design resistance to flow and the poorer the
In the photos you will see the two basic performance (photo #3 & #4).
designs and their differences. Notice that Photo #5 shows not only the impeller
one is a cast aluminum impeller. (modified backward-inclined) but also the
Photo #1 shows a “backward-inclined” discharge transition piece.
fan impeller. This design is very efficient When purchasing a dust collector have a
and quiet. However, the blades are close look at the fan and ask what material
numerous (usually 9 to 16) and because it’s made of. Also ask what the “cfm”
they are close together, large pieces of (cubic feet per minute) rating is for the
wood will damage the fan impeller and unit. Find out if the rating is for the fan
housing (you may be able to see some only or for the entire set-up as displayed.
evidence of this type of damage to this Some manufacturers quote “free air”
impeller). This design of impeller is ratings, which is the rating of the fan 4
capable of moving large volumes of air. without filters or ducting of any kind
Originally, some of the manufacturers used hooked up. Free air ratings are of no use
this type without the grids in front of them. to you, especially when you’re trying to
After many were damaged, they changed determine the size of air cleaner you need
designs. for your shop.
Now the most popular design of impeller
is the “radial” fan impeller. The one FAN FACTS:
pictured is cast aluminum (photo #2). This • The smaller the blade area (regardless of
design features blades that radiate straight the diameter of the fan) the less the volume,
out from the hub of the impeller. There are • The noise generated by the fan is directly
generally 6 to 10 blades spaced quite far related to the speed of the fan and the
apart. number of impellers,
Manufacturers switched to this type of • The noise is a function of the air moving
through the fan. 5
design because large pieces of wood pass
through easier, causing less damage. If you have any questions about dust
collection send them to Chester at: CHESTER VAN NESS is a Dust Removal Consultant
Although this results in less air volume, chester.van@sympatico.ca in Scotland, Ontario. (519) 484-2284
they are generally stronger. They are chester.van@sympatico.ca

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INFORMATION IS THE MOST (Mod
IMPORTANT TOOL IN YOUR WORKSHOP!

bookreview BY MICHEL THERIAULT
25 Essential Projects
For Your Workshop
T
his book is a compilation of includes a table-mounted router. If
projects from a number your space is limited, you may want to
of authors who have consider these projects – either exactly as
contributed to the magazine presented, or adapted to your own needs.
Popular Woodworking, and Later in the book, another project focuses There are also jigs for both the table saw
includes contributions from the editors on how to make a more traditional and the bandsaw. For the table saw, there
themselves. woodworking bench, for those who don’t are two table-top jigs that will help you
need a mobile system. make easier, more accurate cuts. This
Review: includes a mitre sled and a tenoning jig.
This book presents projects, tips and Several different tool holders are The bandsaw jig is featured as a “master
techniques to improve how you use your included, geared to general storage as well jig” which allows you to use your bandsaw
tools and your shop. Since they come as tool specific storage. Again, even if you in more ways than you do now, including
from a variety of authors, the format don’t need the ones illustrated in the book, parallel curves, saw patterns, circles, etc.
isn’t consistent between the projects, the ideas and the construction techniques While it doesn’t include a fence, it can be
(which range from detailed step-by-step are widely adaptable to your own specific easily added.
construction with photos, to basic needs
instruction accompanied by illustrations to In addition to the projects, there are a
aid you in making the project). In all cases, The router is one of the most versatile number of useful tips throughout the book.
however, there is enough information tools in your shop and this book has There are many very creative, useful ideas
needed to do the job. included not one, but two stand-alone which will help you organize your
router tables, along with two different workshop and increase your efficiency.
The projects themselves range from types of router fences. The second one
universally useful to those with very is built with a tilt-up table top, a useful
specific applications. Even if you don’t feature for some routers which need good MICHEL THERIAULT is a Canadian writer and
build them as-is, they should give you lots access to the underside of the table for woodworker living in Guelph, Ontario
www. woodstoneproductions.com
of ideas and a good starting point for your adjustment or bit changes. mjtheriault@sympatico.ca
own workshop.
The book begins with solutions for a CONTENTS: Rack Tips and Charts
common problem among woodworkers – *Rolling Clamp Rack
Projects
lack of space. The first two projects are for *The Little Shop *Bullet-proof Bench Storage Tips
mobile, self-contained work benches with That Could *Stacking Storage
lots of storage and work surface: both Quiet Tips
*Little Shop Mark II
incorporate a bench-top table saw and one *Benjamin Seaton’s Boxes
Glue & Clamp Tips
Tool Chest *Hand Screws
*Bullet-proof Bench *Sharpening Kit
Peg-Board Tips
*Practical Router Table *Tilting Router Stand
BOOK TYPE Technique/Reference *Shop Stool *Table Saw Tenon Jig Sanding Tips
*Table Saw Mitre Sled
LEVEL All Levels *Adjustable Saw Horse
*Drill Press Table *Sandpaper Press Shop Tips
AUTHOR Compilation *Five Shop Helpers *Band Saw Master Jig
*Stanley Tool Cabinet *Dovetail Jig Troubleshooting Your Tools
PUBLISHER Popular Woodworking Books *Lathe Tool Cabinet *Workmate Helpers
SOFTCOVER, 8.5" x 11", 128 PAGES, $35.99 CDN *Wall-Mounted Clamp *Circle-cutting Jig

A
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6" set $269 $242 $229 Ryobi, AEG & all $139 $125 $118
12" x 80T x 1" Delta, Hitachi, Makita, B&D,
8" set $289 $260 $245 up to 10 blades. Ships Sears & all $149 $134 $127
10" set $349 $314 $297 with 6”, 8”, or 10” Dado sets. 15" x 100T x 1" Makita, Ryobi $199 $179 $169
12" set $449 $404 $382 Included free with your order! Also available: 8 1/4" x 60T • 6 1/2" x 40T • 9" x 80T • 14" x 100T. Call for prices.
Duraline HI A/T Woodworker I

Cuts melamine perfectly. 220mm & 300mm available. Designed for radial arm or Sale 10% Off 15% Off
Our best plywood blade. Sale 10% Off 15% Off tablesaws–fine crosscut. Price First Blade Second Blade
Price First Blade Second Blade 7 1/4", 8", 8 1/4" x 60T $109 $ 98 $ 93
10" x 80T (1/8" or 3/32" K) $159 $143 $135 10" x 60T $129 $116 $110
12" x 80T x 1" (1/8” K) $181 $163 $154 12" x 60T $139 $125 $118
14"x100Tx1" • 14"x80Tx1" • 16”x100Tx1” • 8" • 7 1/4" and others. Call for prices. Also available: 9” x 60T • 14” x 60T. Call for prices.
All prices in U.S. funds
Two Easy Ways to Order

Call toll-free Visit our internet store
$15 OFF* OUR EXPERT BLADE SHARPENING!
1-800-229-4814 OR stores.yahoo.com/forrestman Don’t take a chance with micro-chipped edges on your expensive wood! Our in-
factory sharpening preserves the life and performance of all types of carbide
CMR – Ron Collier
Fax 989-684-0402 blades. In fact, Forrest Manufacturing represents the industry standard for fine
quality sharpening. We process most orders in 3 to 5 days, and we’ll give you
Western Canada: Call Sharp Tech, Inc. $15 IN DISCOUNT COUPONS* with your next order for any blade or dado you
877-228-0908 • Fax 403-225-3767
US: Call 1-800-733-7111 DON’T SEE own! (Please include return UPS of $7 + $1 for each additional blade.)
(On NJ, 973-473-5236) • Fax 973-471-3333 WHAT YOU NEED?
Ca
ll us for other blades
and Forrest Manufacturing
IPPeIN G– 5 dampener discs!
FRErEdeSrH 27 Company
s Ov r $e add: 457 River Road
A ll O le as
rders, p o– Clifton, NJ 07014
Other o de – $7 • Dad
Saw bla Stiffener – $3 *3 coupons at $5 each, use 1 coupon per blade. © 2002 Forrest Manufacturing Company, Inc.
$9 •

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PLANS PROJECTS JIGS TIPS PAT T E R N S

Visit our website at:

THE “EVERYTHING YOU NEED”

six-gallon pancake air compressor and all the necessary accessories

SUBSCRIPTIONS 29 BIRD FEEDER

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 1

Over the next six issues Hendrik will provide you

So read on. Whether you’re a beginner or an old pro, there’s

2900 Argentia Rd.

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 5

The Saw Tie

6 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

Attaching the Tie

• Make an attachment so that you can hang the tie

Visit our website at http:/www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 7

Roller Bearing 12” Cut Height

SBW-4300 17” Wood Bandsaw c/w Fence

TOOLEX INTERNATIONAL INC.

8 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

10 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

UPPER BACKREST RAIL

front seat rail

FRONT SEAT RAIL

3" 2" 2" 2"

Illustration by Len Churchill

12 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

STEP 28 TIP board on the line where the top

STEP 23 STEP 27 STEP 30

Nova 3000 Lathe Super Nova

3993 Stouffville Rd. • Stouffville, ON Order On-Line

BUILD THIS MAGNIFICENT

Milwaukee Porter Cable Campbell Hausfeld and KIT

14 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

LISTOWEL Hwy 23 North

FOR ALL YOUR

16 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 17

4 Jaw Scroll Faceplates

» Step Jaws • Scroll Saws • Compressors

» Patented Profile Jaws

» Jumbo Jaws Products for all • Routers • Intarsia Patterns

your woodturning • Router Bits • Books

needs! • Jointers • Bandsaws

Drivers, Centers near you, call Toll Free

Sharpening & Grinding

18 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

Magic Four Puzzle

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 19

Titebond Wood Glue

20 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

The Table Saw

of the board from drifting away from the

PRECISION TIP: Email: sharpco@ican.net

Table Saw Blades

Cross Cut Blades (photos at right)

visit our website ... informative, friendly, easy WE CATER

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 23

To make the jig, cut the slot with your

Use a 1/2” router bit to a 7/16” depth.

You will be most impressed with the

LOU PEETERS is a professional cabinetmaker and

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 25

SERVICE DE KILN DRYING