Disassembly

1. While disassembly can be

achieved with basic tools you'll
also need external snap ring
pliers, retaining ring pliers,
T40 Torx bit, a drift punch and
cold chisel. For reassembly
however you'll need access to a
press, bushing driver, calipers
and a dial indicator.

Figure LO2-2. Basic and special tools.

1. If you aren't sure whether or
not you have a World Class T5,
the quickest external check is
to look at the counter-shaft
bearing cup, just below the
bearing retainer. It it is of the
roller bearing type, with
Timken engravings (left) you
have a WC T5.

Currently, the TREMEC T-5 is being

used on various passenger car and light
truck applications such as the Ford Figure LO2-3. Location of world-class marks on
Mustang, TVR Cerbera and Tuscan, the manual transmission.
Chevy Blazer and S-10 Pickup, and
Ssangyong Musso and Korando.
3. The disassembly process
begins with removing the
shifter. Using a drift punch
drive the roll pin through the
offset lever. The pin will
bottom out but not be
retrievable at this point.

Figure LO2-4. Using a drift punch to remove the

shifter.
4. Remove the eight 15mm tail
housing bolts.

Figure LO2-5. Removing the tail housing bolts.

5. While holding the offset lever
back as shown, tap the case
with a hammer to break the
tailshaft housing free of the
case. Do not attempt to pry
between the mating surfaces.

Figure LO2-6. Tapping the case with a hammer.

6. The tailshaft housing can now
be removed buy sliding it
straight back until it is off the
shifter shaft and main shaft.

Figure LO2-7. Sliding back the tailshaft housing.

7. At this point the speedometer
drive gear can be removed
from the main shaft. Depress
the retaining clip and slide the
gear off, then remove the clip
from the shaft.

Figure LO2-8. Removing the speedometer drive

gear.
8. T5 Speedometer drive gears
come in three tooth counts; 6
(black), 7 (yellow) and 8
(green). By changing to the
lower count gear (6 or 7) you
can compensate for steep axle
ratios and have accurate
speedometer readings. With a
6 tooth gear, for instance, you
can use an 18, 20, and 21
tooth driven gear (on the end
of the speedo cable) for Figure LO2-9. The speedometer drive gear.
accurate reading with 3.73,
4.10, or 4.30 gears
respectively. With the yellow
drive gear you can use 21
tooth speedo gear for 3.73's
and 23 for 4.10.
9. Start by removing the neutral
safety switch from the top
cover.

Figure LO2-10. Removing the neutral safety

switch.
10. Using needle nose pliers,
reach into the neutral switch
port and remove the activator
pin. We're going to plug this
port since we have no plans to
use a neutral safeguard on the
ignition switch.

Figure LO2-11. Removing the activator pin.

11. Remove the ten top-cover
bolts using a 10mm socket.
Use the pry slots at the
opposing corners of the case to
break loose the top cover. Do
not try to lift or force the cover
off at this time.

Figure LO2-12. Removing top-cover bolts.

12. Push the cover over to the
drain plug side of the
transmission case to move the
shift forks clear of the reverse
mechanism, allowing the cover
to be lifted off the case.

Figure LO2-13. Removing the case cover.

13. Turning to the back of the
case, we'll work on removing
the 5th gear assembly. Using a
drift punch, drive this roll pin
out of the 5th shift fork and
shift rail.

Figure LO2-14. Removing the 5th gear assembly.

14. Using snap ring pliers,
remove the snap ring which
secures the 5th synchronizer
assembly and 5th speed drive
gear in place.

Figure LO2-15. Removing the snap ring.

15. The entire 5th gear shift
fork and gear assembly can be
pulled off the cluster shaft and
set aside.

Figure LO2-16. Pulling the 5th gear shift fork.

16. Back at the front of the
case the bearing retainer is
removed to allow access to the
input shaft. Note the shim and
bearing race which are behind
the bearing retainer.

Figure LO2-17. Removing the bearing retainers.

17. To remove the input shaft
this crescent shaped notch
needs to face downward
(shown in up position.)

Figure LO2-18. Adjusting the notch of input

shaft.
18. The input shaft can then be
pulled out. There will likely be
loose roller bearings which
drop out. They can be
discarded.

Figure LO2-19. Pulling out the input shaft.

19. Slide the bearing cup off
the main shaft.

Figure LO2-20. Removing the bearing cup.

20. Carefully lift the output
(main) shaft assembly up and
out through the top of the case
and set aside.

Figure LO2-21. Removing the main shaft

assembly.
21. Reach into the case and
unhook the spring from the
5th-Reverse (5-R) shift rail
assembly. Then pull the rail
out of the case.

Figure LO2-22. Pulling the rail out of the case.

22. Remove the retaining clip
from the 5-R shift lever and
then remove the lever from the
case.

Figure LO2-23. Removing the retaining clip from

the shift lever
23. Shown is the 5-R shift lever
assembly. Note the torsion
spring, this is found on mid
1992 and newer World Class
T5's.

Figure LO2-24. 5-R shift lever.

24. The 5-R shift levers and 5th
shift forks from pre 1992 WC
T5's (top) and post 1992 with
the torsion spring (bottom)
cannot be interchanged. The
early T5's use an extension
spring.

Figure LO2-25. 5-R shift lever assembly.

25. If the side of your T5 case
has this pivot pin below the
back-up switch it indicates the
later style 5-R shift lever
mechanism with the torsion
spring.

Figure LO2-26. Location of the pivot pin.

26. Use a cold chisel to pry
down the lock tabs on the
bearing retainer. Then remove
the four T-40 Torx head
screws.

Figure LO2-27. Removing the lock tabs with a

cold chisel.
27. The bearing retainer is
removed along with the shims
and bearing race. On a
standard rebuild we'd take
note of the shim stack height,
but in the case of our G-Force
build up we'll check end play
and shim accordingly for the
new gears.

Figure LO2-28. Removing the bearing retainer.

28. Next we'll remove the
reverse idler shaft and gear.
Use a drift to punch out the
roll pin in the idler shaft. A fair
warning, the shaft will want to
turn as you smack it so aim
carefully.

Figure 2-29. Removing the reverse idler shaft and

gear.
29. With the roll pin out we can
push the idler shaft out the
back of the T5 case.

Figure LO2-30. Removing the idler shaft.

30. The reverse idler gear can
be removed as well. Be sure to
grab the O-ring which sits in
front of the idler gear.

Figure 2-31. Removing the idler gear.

31. The final step to clear out
the case assembly is removal
of the countershaft gear. Push
the gear forward so the shaft
and cone bearing protrude out
the rear of the case as shown.
Then snip the bearing cage to
remove it from the shaft.

Figure 2-32. Removing the countershaft gear.

32. With the bearing cage
removed the countershaft gear
assembly can be guided out
the top of the case.

Figure LO2-33. Removing the countershaft gear.

33. Finally, use a hammer to
knock out the bearing cup out.
We'll replace this with a new
piece.

Figure LO2-34. Removing the bearing cup.

34. The empty T5 case can now
be thoroughly cleaned with
solvent. Be sure to remove all
metal debris stuck to the
magnet in the bottom of the
case.

Figure LO2-35. Cleaning the T5 case.