Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9, 1985-1991 DOI 10.

1007/s12221-014-1985-y

Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Fabrics Woven from

Bamboo Viscose Blended Yarns
Abhijit Majumdar* and Sagar Baburao Pol
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, 110016, India
(Received July 16, 2013; Revised December 4, 2013; Accepted December 22, 2013)

Abstract: This paper presents the low stress mechanical properties of plain fabrics woven from cotton, bamboo viscose and
cotton-bamboo viscose blended yarns. Three blends (100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton-bamboo and 100 % bamboo) were used to
produce three yarn counts (20, 25 and 30 Ne). Each of these yarns was used to make fabrics with different pick densities (50,
60 and 70 picks per inch). It was found that bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear rigidity, shear hysteresis and
compressibility is lower for bamboo fabrics as compared to those of 100 % cotton fabrics. On the other hand, extensibility,
tensile energy and compressional resilience are higher for 100 % bamboo fabrics than 100 % cotton fabrics. Higher pick
density increases linearity of load-elongation curve, bending rigidity, shear rigidity and compressional resilience. Shear and
bending rigidities show very good correlation with the respective hysteresis values.
Keywords: Bamboo viscose, Bending, Compression, Cotton, Low stress mechanical properties, Shear

Introduction tried to model the bending behavior of plain woven fabrics

Bamboo is the fastest growing grass which does not
require replanting after harvesting. Besides, bamboo plant
does not require any pesticides or fertilizers for cultivation
and thus reduces the pollution load on the environment.
Fiber and polymer researchers have used bamboo as a raw
material to produce rayon fibers using the chemical route
followed for manufacturing of viscose fiber. Bamboo yarns
are finer in diameter, less hairy, more flexible and stretchable
than the equivalent cotton yarns [1]. Bamboo fibers are
claimed to have better antimicrobial and UV protection [2,3]
properties although some recent researches [4,5] have raised
questions on the validity of these claims. Knitted fabrics
made from bamboo viscose yarns show higher moisture
vapour transmission and lower thermal resistance than the
equivalent cotton fabrics [6,7]. It is also claimed that bamboo
fabrics have very soft feel. Therefore, bamboo fabrics are
popularly used for undergarments, socks and sports clothing
[1]. Thus it will be interesting to study the handle behavior,
which is governed by the low stress mechanical properties,
of bamboo and bamboo blended woven fabrics.
Fabric handle is dependent on complex interactions among
tensile, bending, shear and compressive deformation at low
stress. Handle properties are assessed subjectively by sliding
the fabric between finger and thumb, which gives some idea
about stiffness, softness, smoothness, bulkiness and crispiness
of the fabric. However, the concept of fabric handle meas-
urement has completely transformed with the invention of
Kawabata Evaluation System [8] which measures the low
stress mechanical properties (tensile, shear, bending and
compression) of fabrics and predicts the fabric hand value.
There have been some interesting studies on the low stress
mechanical properties of woven fabrics. Ghosh et al. [9,10]
considering various yarn path geometry, yarn bending
behavior and fabric sett. Matsuraida et al. [11] investigated
the role of yarn count, yarn twist and pick density on the
bending behavior of woven fabrics. Lo and Hu [12] inferred
that shear rigidity and shear hysteresis of woven fabric in
various directions are highly correlated. Behera [13] and
Nayak et al. [14] reported the low stress mechanical properties
of linen and polyester blended fabrics, respectively. Some
recent studies [15,16] have reported the effect of Cellulase
and enzyme treatment on the low stress mechanical properties
of fabrics.
Ample research studies have been conducted on the handle
properties of the fabrics woven from cotton, polyester and
wool yarns. However, very few studies have been reported
on the low stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics
made from bamboo viscose yarns [17]. Therefore, the effect
of bamboo fiber proportion, pick density and yarn count on
the low stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics has
been studied in this work.
Experimental
Yarn Sample Preparation
Ring spun yarns of 20, 25 and 30 Ne linear density were
spun from 100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton: bamboo viscose and
100 % bamboo viscose fiber. The upper half mean length,
fiber bundle tenacity and fiber fineness of cotton were
28 mm, 28.5 g/tex and 4.5 micronaire respectively. The
length and denier of bamboo viscose fiber were 38 mm and
1.4, respectively. To minimize the problem of length incom-
patibility, combed cotton slivers were blended with bamboo
viscose at blowroom stage. Yarns were produced using twist
multiplier of 3.8 and spindle speed of 15500 rpm.

*Corresponding author: majumdar@textile.iitd.ac.in

1985
1986 Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9 Abhijit Majumdar and Sagar Baburao Pol

Fabric Sample Preparation were measured by using Instron universal tester following
Sizing of yarn samples were done on CCI Tech (SS 565) ASTM D2256-02. Gauge length was maintained at 500 mm
single end sizing machine using PVA solution of 3 % and crosshead speed was kept at 100 mm/min. Thirty tests
concentration. Plain woven fabric samples were produced on for each yarn specimen ware carried out and mean tenacity,
CCI Tech (SC 8900s) sample weaving machine. Warp sett breaking elongation and initial modulus were calculated.
(ends per inch or EPI) for all the fabrics was kept constant at Low stress mechanical properties of fabrics were measured
50. For all the fabric specimens, warp and weft yarn counts using Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Tensile and
were kept at the same level. Three yarn counts (20, 25 and shear, bending and compression properties were evaluated
30 Ne), three fiber blends (100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton: using KES-FB1, KES-FB2 and KES-FB3 respectively.
bamboo and 100 % bamboo) and three pick densities or Table 1 presents the testing parameters and Table 2 explains
picks per inch (50, 60 and 70) were used for producing a the meaning and units of various parameters evaluated by
total of 27 (3×3×3) fabric specimens. All the fabrics were KES.
then desized using standard recipe.
Results and Discussion
Testing of Yarns and Fabrics
Yarn diameter was measured using Nikon SMZ1500 Yarn Properties
microscope. Ten cones were randomly selected for each type Tensile properties of 100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton-bamboo
of yarn and from each cone five readings were noted and and 100 % bamboo yarns is shown in Table 3. It is seen that
then the average was calculated. Tensile properties of yarn for same yarn count, 100 % cotton yarn is having higher
tenacity as compared to other yarns. This is due to higher
Table 1. Parameters for fabric testing in KES cotton fibre tenacity as compared to that of bamboo fibre.
Testing Parameter Value Besides, it is observed that 50:50 cotton-bamboo yarn is
Maximum tensile strain 100 % weaker as compared to 100 % cotton and 100 % bamboo
yarns. This can be attributed to different breaking elongation
Maximum tensile force 500 gf/cm
Tensile and of cotton and bamboo fibres. Cotton fibres are expected to
Tensile strain rate 0.02 mm/s reach rupture point earlier as compared to bamboo fibres.
shear
Maximum shear strain 8 degree Breaking elongation of cotton yarn is found to be even lower
Shear strain rate 0.417 mm/s than the half of that of bamboo yarn. Thus, during tensile
Rate of bending 0.5 cm-1/s testing, cotton fibres rupture at lower level of elongation
Bending when the contribution of bamboo fibres towards the load
Maximum curvature ±2.5 cm-1
Anvil area 2 cm2 bearing is negligible. After the rupture of cotton components,
the entire load is transferred to the bamboo components and
Compression Rate of compression 0.02 mm/s
it also ruptures immediately. This results in weaker blended
Maximum compressive load 50 gf/cm2 yarn as compared to 100 % cotton and 100 % bamboo yarn.
Figure 1 depicts the stress-strain curves of 25 Ne 100 %
Table 2. Properties evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System
cotton, 50:50 % cotton-bamboo and 100 % bamboo yarns. It
Test Parameters Characteristics Unit is clearly seen that initial modulus of yarn decreases with
EM Extensibility %
LT Linearity of tensile curve - Table 3. Tensile properties and diameter of yarns
Tensile
WT Tensile energy g.cm/cm2 Yarn
Yarn Blend Tenacity Elongation Modulus
RT Tensile resilience % diameter
count ratio (g/tex) (%) (g/tex)
G Shear rigidity g/cm.degree (mm)
Hysteresis at 0.5 o shear g/cm 100 % C 15.32 5.51 272.2 0.220
Shear 2HG
angle 20 Ne 50:50 C-B 10.08 6.81 208.2 0.216
2HG5 Hysteresis at 5 o shear angle g/cm 100 % B 12.06 14.42 140.0 0.197
B Bending rigidity g.cm2/cm 100 % C 13.45 5.18 274.3 0.186
Bending
2HB Bending hysteresis g.cm/cm 25 Ne 50:50 C-B 10.83 5.96 229.5 0.183
Compressibility % 100 % B 12.08 15.57 149.0 0.171
Linearity of compression - 100 % C 14.09 5.30 292.3 0.174
LC
Compression curve 30 Ne 50:50 C-B 10.39 5.70 239.2 0.170
WC Compressional energy g.cm/cm2 100 % B 10.94 12.99 144.5 0.155
RC Compressional resilience % C: cotton; B: bamboo; C-B: cotton-bamboo.
KES Properties of Bamboo Viscose Blended Fabrics Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9 1987

increase in proportion of bamboo fibre.
It is also noted from Table 3 that for the same count of
yarn, as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases, the yarn
diameter decreases. In other words, addition of bamboo fibre
in the yarn makes it finer in terms of diameter. This is due to
the better packing of bamboo fibres in the yarn cross-section
caused by the lower flexural rigidity of fibres. Furthermore,
the bamboo fibre that has been used to produce the yarn is
comparatively longer (38 mm) than the cotton counterpart
(upper half mean length is 28 mm) which helps in better
twist propagation and thus producing a more compact structure.
This has also been verified by previous researchers [1].

Tensile Properties of Fabrics

Figure 1. Stress-strain behavior of 25 Ne yarns.
Table 4 shows the tensile properties of fabrics obtained
from KES. It is observed that extensibility of fabric increases
with the increase in proportion of bamboo fiber. It can be
attributed to the higher elongation of bamboo yarns as
shown in Figure 1. The effect of pick density and yarn count
is not consistent on the fabric extensibility. Linearity of load-
elongation curve for all the 27 fabrics are well below 1.
Linearity value less than 1 implies that the fabric load-
elongation curve passes below the straight line. which is

Table 4. Tensile and shear properties of fabrics

Yarn count Pick density WT G 2HG 2HG5
Fiber blend EM (%) LT RT (%)
(Ne) (PPI) (g.cm/cm2) (g/cm.deg) (g/cm) (g/cm)
100 % C 9.45 0.613 14.50 36.94 1.33 3.30 6.61
50 50:50 C-B 11.27 0.597 14.83 36.78 0.99 1.92 4.56
100 % B 14.65 0.498 18.25 40.70 0.31 0.18 0.68
100 % C 8.61 0.656 14.10 38.99 1.92 4.60 8.36
20 60 50:50 C-B 11.05 0.643 17.65 38.42 1.58 2.57 6.26
100 % B 12.30 0.560 16.90 42.88 0.36 0.22 1.06
100 % C 8.59 0.684 14.63 37.81 2.51 5.69 9.49
70 50:50 C-B 10.33 0.701 17.80 39.89 2.40 3.62 7.95
100 % B 12.70 0.578 17.92 42.23 0.38 0.21 1.31
100 % C 8.32 0.567 11.80 38.07 0.61 1.41 2.72
50 50:50 C-B 8.45 0.613 12.90 39.61 0.65 1.31 2.80
100 % B 11.88 0.544 16.17 37.79 0.31 0.31 0.65
100 % C 8.16 0.600 12.23 39.03 0.89 2.08 4.41
25 60 50:50 C-B 8.49 0.680 10.70 43.73 0.95 1.76 4.28
100 % B 12.47 0.555 16.90 40.66 0.32 0.23 0.76
100 % C 7.60 0.637 12.02 41.99 1.18 2.50 5.66
70 50:50 C-B 8.47 0.678 14.04 42.64 1.14 1.99 4.98
100 % B 11.91 0.582 16.85 42.19 0.35 0.29 0.95
100 % C 8.71 0.563 12.20 35.94 0.55 1.38 2.39
50 50:50 C-B 9.19 0.599 14.92 34.10 0.48 0.90 1.77
100 % B 10.06 0.599 14.80 36.82 0.28 0.31 0.59
100 % C 7.90 0.594 12.15 38.83 0.72 1.84 3.40
30 60 50:50 C-B 9.75 0.613 15.27 35.84 0.62 1.22 2.63
100 % B 10.16 0.617 15.47 37.42 0.29 0.31 0.60
100 % C 8.49 0.630 13.20 38.98 0.95 2.39 4.72
70 50:50 C-B 10.15 0.653 15.92 36.61 0.80 1.54 3.59
100 % B 11.74 0.584 16.50 38.61 0.31 0.26 0.56
1988 Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9 Abhijit Majumdar and Sagar Baburao Pol

passing through the origin and final point of experimentation.

In general, it is observed that fabric woven from 100 % bamboo
yarn has lower tensile linearity (0.498-0.599) as compared to
that of cotton (0.563-0.684) and cotton-bamboo blended
fabrics (0.597-0.701). This is due to the low tensile modulus
of bamboo fibres and yarns which result in higher extension
at lower loads. It is also observed from Table 4 that linearity
of load-elongation curve increases with increase in pick
density. This may be ascribed to the increase in compactness
of fabric structure due to the increase in the number of
interlacements within the test area which results in higher
slope of the load-elongation curve.
Tensile energy is the energy required or work done during
tensile extension. It is observed that tensile energy of fabric Figure 2. Shear behavior of fabrics made from 20 Ne yarns and 50
increases with the increase in proportion of bamboo fiber. PPI.
This is due to higher elongation of bamboo blended fabric.
In general, it is seen that fabrics woven from bamboo
blended yarns possess higher tensile resilience. In most of
the cases, tensile resilience increases with increase in pick
density as the fabric becomes more compact.

Shear Properties of Fabrics

Shear rigidity is the resistance offered by the fabric against
the shear deformation. It is mostly influenced by the resistance
to mobility offered at the cross-over points between intersecting
yarns [12,17]. In KES, the shear rigidity of fabric is measured
by calculating the slope of the shear curve between 0.5 o and
5 o. Shear hysteresis is measured at two angles, namely at
0.5 o and 5 o, by measuring the distance between forward and
recovery curve along vertical axis. Shear rigidity and shear
Figure 3. Relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis
hysteresis of the fabrics were measured along the warp and
at 0.5 o angle.
weft directions and the mean values have been reported in
Table 4. It is observed that the shear rigidity of fabric
decreases drastically with increase in proportion of bamboo
fiber. Mishra et al. [17] reported that the yarn to yarn friction
is higher for bamboo yarns than that of cotton yarns.
However, shear rigidity is the maximum for 100 % cotton
fabric and the least for 100 % bamboo fabric. This can be
attributed to lower hairiness and lower diameter of bamboo
yarns [1] making the mobility of yarns, at the cross-over
points, easier during shearing. Besides, bamboo yarns possess
lower bending rigidity which may also cause lower shear
rigidity. It is also noted from Table 4 that shear rigidity
increases with the increase in pick density and coarseness of
yarn. Higher pick density yields more number of cross-over
points in a given fabric area. Coarser yarns have more
contact area at the cross-over points. Besides coarser yarns Figure 4. Relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis
have more hairiness and higher bending rigidity. All these at 5 o angle.
factors contribute towards the higher value of shear rigidity.
Table 4 also shows that shear hysteresis decreases with fabrics. It is observed that for the 100 % cotton fabric, not
increase in proportion of bamboo fibers. Shear hysteresis only the slope of the shear curve between 0.5 o and 5 o is
(2HG5) increases with increase in pick density and highest but the distance between the forward and recovery
coarseness of yarns. Figure 2 depicts the shear behavior of curve, along vertical axis, is also the maximum. The higher
100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton-bamboo and 100 % bamboo slope implies higher shear rigidity whereas higher distance
KES Properties of Bamboo Viscose Blended Fabrics Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9 1989

between forward and recovery curve indicates higher shear
hysteresis. Figures 3 and 4 depict the relationship between
shear rigidity and shear hysteresis. It is observed that there is
a very strong linear relationship between shear rigidity and shear
hysteresis (correlation coefficient between G and 2HG is 0.95
and between G and 2HG5 is 0.97). This may be due the fact
that the factors influencing the shear rigidity and shear
hysteresis are same. This is in agreement with the findings of
Lo and Hu [12] who used cotton fabrics in their research.
Bending Properties of Fabrics
Bending rigidity indicates the resistance offered by the
fabric against bending deformation. In KES, bending rigidity is
measured by calculating the average slope of bending curve
between the curvatures of ±0.5 and ±1.5 cm-1. The bending
hysteresis is measured by calculating the distance between
forward and recovery curve, along vertical axis, at 1.0 cm-1
curvature. Bending rigidity and bending hysteresis of the
fabrics were measured along the warp and weft directions
and then the average was calculated. The results of bending
properties of fabrics are given in Table 5. It is noted that
100 % cotton fabric is having the highest bending rigidity.
However, the bending rigidity of fabric decreases with the
increase in proportion of bamboo fiber. This is due to lower
tensile modulus and lower diameter of bamboo yarn as
compared to those values of equivalent cotton yarn. The
bending rigidity of a circular rod can be expressed by the
following equation.
Bending rigidity = E.I
4
πd
For circular cross-section: I = --------
64
where, E is the tensile modulus; I is the area moment of
inertia; and d is the diameter of the rod.
For bamboo yarns, the values of tensile modulus (E) and

Table 5. Bending and compression properties of fabrics

Yarn count Pick density B 2HB Compressibility WC RC
Fiber blend
(Ne) (PPI) (g.cm2/cm) (g.cm/cm) (%) (g.cm/cm2) (%)
100 % C 0.077 0.071 40.81 0.201 39.47
50 50:50 % C-B 0.055 0.046 35.87 0.160 41.75
100 % B 0.033 0.016 25.05 0.100 45.00
100 % C 0.078 0.082 36.00 0.187 41.08
20 60 50:50 % C-B 0.064 0.063 32.74 0.163 43.50
100 % B 0.047 0.019 29.22 0.098 45.92
100 % C 0.095 0.109 35.71 0.179 41.44
70 50:50 % C-B 0.093 0.088 33.57 0.167 45.24
100 % B 0.047 0.022 31.36 0.128 48.28
100 % C 0.040 0.035 44.96 0.228 39.99
50 50:50 % C-B 0.038 0.026 39.58 0.185 41.64
100 % B 0.022 0.013 27.72 0.104 52.88
100 % C 0.051 0.043 44.74 0.221 40.06
25 60 50:50 % C-B 0.047 0.031 39.17 0.187 42.15
100 % B 0.033 0.009 31.07 0.107 49.46
100 % C 0.058 0.054 42.48 0.200 40.04
70 50:50 % C-B 0.052 0.046 40.70 0.167 43.79
100 % B 0.035 0.020 24.63 0.112 49.21
100 % C 0.031 0.032 42.42 0.178 42.14
50 50:50 % C-B 0.025 0.018 33.97 0.130 39.98
100 % B 0.021 0.007 28.13 0.120 50.84
100 % C 0.042 0.034 39.62 0.172 41.54
30 60 50:50 % C-B 0.032 0.021 37.87 0.168 42.36
100 % B 0.019 0.009 29.53 0.112 46.01
100 % C 0.049 0.045 41.24 0.193 43.32
70 50:50 % C-B 0.030 0.035 34.20 0.127 45.32
100 % B 0.021 0.014 31.34 0.132 44.64
1990 Fibers and Polymers 2014, Vol.15, No.9
Figure 5. Bending behavior of fabrics made from 20 Ne yarns and
50 PPI.
Figure 6. Relationship between bending rigidity and bending
hysteresis.
diameter (d) are smaller than those of equivalent cotton
yarns leading to lower value of bending rigidity in case of
the former. It is also seen that bending rigidity increases with
increase in pick density of fabric. This is due to the increase
in the number of yarns within the test specimen which is
subjected to bending deformation. Bending rigidity of fabric
decreases with the increase in yarn fineness (Ne), which is
quite obvious.
From Table 5, it is also observed that bending hysteresis
decreases with increase in proportion of bamboo fiber.
Figure 5 depicts the bending behavior of 100 % cotton,
50:50 cotton-bamboo and 100 % bamboo fabrics. It is
observed that for the 100 % cotton fabric, not only the slope
of bending curve between 0.5 and 1.5 cm-1 curvature is the
highest but the distance between the forward and recovery
curve along vertical axis is also the maximum. Like bending
rigidity, bending hysteresis also increases with the increase
in pick density and yarn coarseness. From Figure 6, it is
observed that the bending rigidity and bending hysteresis are
Abhijit Majumdar and Sagar Baburao Pol
Figure 7. Relationship between compressibility and compression
resilience.
highly correlated (correlation coefficient is 0.95).
Compression Property of Fabrics
Compressibility of fabric is measured by calculating the
percentage change in thickness when the compressive stress
on the fabric in increase from 0.5 to 50 g/cm2. The results of
compression testing have been shown in the last three
columns of Table 5. It is observed that 100 % cotton fabrics
possess higher compressibility and it decreases with the
increase in the proportion of bamboo fiber. This can be
attributed to the higher hairiness and lower packing factor of
cotton yarn [1] as compared to those of bamboo yarn which
make the compression easier for the former. Matsudaira [18]
showed that during the compression of fabric, first the
protruding fibers are compressed followed by the yarns and
fibers. Pick density and yarn count do not exhibit any consistent
effect on the compressibility. Compressional energy also
shows similar behavior like compressibility. As compressibility
of 100 % cotton fabric is the maximum, it requires the
highest amount of compressional energy followed by 50:50
cotton-bamboo fabrics and 100 % bamboo fabrics. Com-
pression resilience of fabric increases with the increase in
the proportion of bamboo fibers. Higher pick density leads
to higher compression resilience. This may be ascribed to
the wavier configuration of the yarns in the fabric when the
pick density is higher. The inverse relationship between
compressibility and compressional resilience of fabrics has
been shown in Figure 7. It implies that the fabric which is
easily compressed does not recover from the compression.
Although bamboo fabric is compressed less as compared to
cotton fabrics, the former recovers well from the compression
leading to higher compressional resilience.
Conclusion
Low stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics made
from 100 % cotton, 50:50 cotton-bamboo viscose and 100 %
KES Properties of Bamboo Viscose Blended Fabrics
bamboo viscose fabrics have been studied and analyzed in
this research. The extensibility, tensile energy and tensile
resilience of fabric increase with the increase in the proportion
of bamboo fiber. The linearity of load-elongation curve
decreases with the increase in the proportion of bamboo fiber
and with the decrease in pick density. Higher proportion of
bamboo fiber, finer yarn count and lower pick density result
in lower shear and bending resistances in woven fabric.
Shear and bending resistances are highly correlated with the
respective hysteresis values. Fabric compressibility and
compressional energy reduces with the increase in the
proportion of bamboo fibers. Higher proportion of bamboo
fiber and higher pick density yield higher compressional
resilience. Higher value of extensibility, compressional resilience
and lower values of shear and bending rigidities imply that
bamboo fabrics will give softer handle characteristics than
the virgin cotton fabrics making the former suitable for
apparel applications.
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