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What is RONA PLUS ?

2

You like the sea and the
sun, but you would also
like to experience the
entire magical beauty of
Istria?
You are holding RONA
PLUS Pocket Guide, the
first in line of RONA PLUS
brochures. In an age of
information overload, we
aim at providing verified,
detailed, and easily acces-
sible information. Being a
private company, we are
able to publish only the
information we can re-
ally vouch for, and recom-
mend only the places that
suit our criteria: authentic
atmosphere and quality
service at fair prices. All
the places from this guide
are visited regularly by
our field crew, guarantee-
ing that the actual quality
level of these places corre-
sponds to the descriptions
in the guide.
Let us help you explore
the true soul of this area:
home-made food, local
people and their way of life,
secluded corners hidden
to an average tourist eye,
and other delights for all
your senses.
RONA PLUS POCKET
GUIDE: USER’S MANUAL
In order to use this guide properly,
you will need to buy a detailed large-scale
map of Istria, such as a 1:100,000-scale.
Test the map before buying it: look for a
smaller town, such as Gondolići, about
3 km south of Labin.
The pocket guide concentrates on
places you have probably never heard of,
because these are the places where peo-
ple experience the most memorable mo-
ments. There are five ideas for one-day
road trips, composed of nearby destina-
tions, so you could spend less time in a
car, and more in enjoyment! Some day
trips are circular, and any of the men-
tioned places can be the starting point;
if you choose to change the order, pay
attention to the opening hours of your
destinations so that you would not find 3
them closed. Around the middle of each
trip there is a lunch suggestion: well-
tried taverns, where you will certainly
not be disappointed neither by the food
and atmosphere, nor by the price.
All prices are from May/June 2012.
In the restaurants section of the bro-
chure, only individual portion meals
were taken as guidance for establishing
price ranges.

Rovinj
CAPE KAMENJAK
Rocks, sea, dinosaurs, and
the craziest bar in Istria!
The well renowned tourist guide Lonely Planet has listed Cape Ka-
menjak as one of the most desirable destinations for a secluded
holiday on the Mediterranean: the cape, also the southmost point
of Istria, is dominated by rocks, the sea, and peace. A web of nu-
merous bike trails make Cape Kamenjak a wonderful place to go
biking all year long; however, in the summer most people prefer it
for swimming. First go to the village of Premantura, which is also
Cape Kamenjak the entrance to Kamenjak. A 600-meter-long walking route called
Following the Dinosaur Ways on Kamenjak begins near the entrance,
where you can see dinosaur models and actual footprints left by the
dinosaurs that used to walk these parts. You can explore the route
on foot or by bike, and enjoy the smells of aromatic plants and the
sound of crickets chirping in the summer fields, luring you to go
4
swimming. Drive all the way to the Parking lot at the cape’s very
end (cca. 4 km), park your car, and after a few more minutes on foot
you will reach the coast. A piece of advice: take a parasol if you are
planning on spending the entire day there, because there is almost
no shade. The higher rocks urge numerous people to try out various
water jumps – you will immediately notice the jumpers’ gathering
place. The cape’s wild nature is also an interesting location for diving,
exploring the plant life (there are about 550 various plant species),
www.kamenjak.hr etc. Would you ever expect to find an actual bar in this wilderness?
The Safari Bar is fused so perfectly with its surroundings that you
cannot really be sure whether you are in the bar or not. You will
find yourself walking on straw, passing by irregularly shaped
wooden benches and trunks at the tables, and pouring
your drink from a faucet embedded in a rock. Besides
the shade, the bar also offers numerous opportunities
for play and exploration, making it a kid’s paradise.
From there you can also see Porer, a little island with
a 19th century lighthouse. From a protruded part
of the cost, or from higher ground, you can see the
nearby little island of Fenoliga, whose southern part is
one of the richest dinosaurs’ footprints sites in Europe,
with over 100 identified footprints.
More information is available at www.kamenjak.hr
 Safari bar

Porer

Basic Information
TICKET PRICE:
25.00 HRK per car
(valid all day)

LOCATION:
Premantura, near Pule

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:

City of Pula
THE PARENZANA
Together on wheels through
the past and the present
Once upon a time the Parenzana was a narrow gauge railroad, built
to connect Trieste and Poreč (Parenzo in Italian), connecting thirty-
three other Istrian towns along the way. The route is 123 km long; 78
km are on Croatian territory. It was opened for traffic in 1902, but in
1935 the Mussolini government decided that the iron used for rail-
ways would be much better used for weapons. The tracks were then
dismantled and loaded onto a ship bound for Abyssinia, where they
Parenzana were supposed to be melted into raw metal for weapons. Instead,
the tracks of the Parenzana railroad met their sad end at the bottom
of the Mediterranean: the ship was torpedoed, and today the railway
tracks keep company to Mediterranean fishes.
However, what was once a train route today is a wonderful biking
6 route! The Parenzana is a very popular for biking and hiking. The
route is very well marked and you can get started from any of a
number of Istrian villages it passes by: from Poreč and Vižinada to
the Slovenian border, including little towns such as Buje, Grožnjan,
Oprtalj and Motovun. The well maintained eleven tunnels, numerous
bridges and viaducts on its path give the experience a special atmos-
phere. The route is interesting to explore at any time of the year. In the
winter, when the tunnels temporarily turn into ice caves with icicles
hanging from the ceilings, you can chose a less demanding segment
and regain your strength at one of the nearby taverns, sitting by an
open fireplace and sipping Istrian soup*.
The Parenzana Museum is located in the small town of Livade. The
Museum exhibits numerous fantastic old photographies and other
interesting details, offering answers to any and all questions you
www.parenzana.net
might have about the Parenzana. Call +385-52-644-150 an hour in
advance to notify the staff of your arrival, and one of them will come
and give you a tour of the museum (group visits, as well as individual
visits). The museum is open all year round, and free of charge.
More information is available at www.parenzana.net (Parenzana it-
self), and at www.istria-bike.com (biking on the Parenzana).
*Istrian soup is not really a soup – it is a typical local beverage. Red wine with some spices
www.istria-bike.com and olive oil is warmed up on open fire, and served with pieces of toasted bread. Delicious.
 7

Basic Information
TICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn

LOCATION:
Savudrija – Buje – Grožnjan – Oprtalj
– Motovun – Vižinada
Parenzana Museum: Livade (on route
from Motovun to Oprtalj

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:

all the towns and villages the route
passes by
Baredine and Mramornica caves
(see pp. 8-9)
ISTRIAN CAVES
The mystic underground
The glittering, amazingly shaped stalactites and stalagmites will
surely be a welcome refreshment to your vacation in Istria. Istria be-
longs to the karst area stretched along the entire Croatian coastline,
full of caves and sinkholes. How so? Trying to make its way deeper
and deeper underground, water is constantly melting the limestone
and opening up passages; as a result, caves are formed. Perhaps you
have already noticed that there are very few rivers in Istria, and even
the existing ones are rather small? In karst areas such as this one
water quickly finds its way down, so karst areas are generally char-
acterized by scarce surface waters, and – numerous caves! There
are four tourist caves in Istrian countryside: Pazinska jama (the Cave
of Pazin), Baredine Cave, Mramornica (Marble cave), and Feštinsko
kraljevstvo (The Kingdom of Feštini). Some are caves (underground
8 spaces with a horizontal entrance), and others are sinkholes (under-
ground spaces with a vertical entrance), and you enter them by stairs.
These mysterious spaces are home to numerous animals that never
go outside, such as the olm (lat. Proteus anguinus, called čovječja
ribica in Croatian, which means human fish), various crabs, insects,
sponges, etc. If bats are the first animal species that comes to mind
when you think of the underground, think again: actually, they are not
real cave animals, as they go outside to hunt.
If you decide to visit one of the
caves, make sure you bring
some warm clothes (long pants
and a sweater). Although it may
be hot outside, and even the very
thought of warm clothes repels
you, the temperature in the un-
derground varies between 13
and 15oC, so do not be taken by
surprise. The temperature in the
inner parts of a cave is constant
(never changes), and it matches
the average annual temperature
of the area..
 Basic Information
TICKET PRICE:
Baredine: adults 60,00/children 35,00
students 45,00 kn
Mramornica: adults 50,00
children 25,00 / students 40,00 kn
Feštinsko kraljevstvo: adults 40,00
children 25,00 kn
Pazinska jama: Educational trail:
adults 30.00/children 15.00 kuna
Speleo-adventure 100.00 kuna per
person
FREE OF CHARGE ON MONDAYS.
All the above mentioned caves have special group
discount prices.

LOCATION:
Baredine: Nova Vas (near Višnjan) 9

Mramornica: near Brtonigla

Feštinsko kraljevstvo: about half way
between Žminj and Barban
Pazinska jama: City of Pazin

OPENING HOURS: Baredine

daily, 09:30-18:00 (July/Aug.)
10:00-17:00 (Sept.)
Mramornica: 10:00-18:00
(prior notification at
00385-52-774-313
or 00385-52 774-276)
Feštinsko kraljevstvo:
daily, 10:00-18:00
Pazinska jama: daily, 10,00-19.00
 ŠKARLINE CANYON
Refreshment
accompanied by
croaking frogs
If you feel like taking a break from the sun and the sea, visit
the Škarline canyon! Start from the village of Nova Vas. Drive
to the centre of Nova Vas (a roundabout with three cypress
trees, two benches and a table), turn right, and after 30 me-
Mirne Valley tres on your right you will see a sign and the beginning of a
macadam road leading to Škarline. After a 1.7 km drive along
vineyards, you will reach the entrance to Škarline. At the en-
trance there are two ponds with a little bridge, and a water
faucet. There is also an educational board, and a waterfall
which comes to life during rainy seasons. At this point the
10
canyon is not yet visible: cross the bridge, and you will see
a couple of signs, one of which points the way to Škarline
canyon. On its way towards joining Mirna River, Škarline
brook has created a lush green canyon. Its fresh air makes it
a lovely sanctuary from the summer heat. Remember to bring
some food and drink.
If you are not sure which way to go, just follow the sound of
the brook. Entering the canyon feels like entering a differ-
ent world, with a waterfall and a clear brook meandering for
www.coloursofistria.com several kilometres towards Mirna River through thick, shady
woodland. (www.coloursofistria.com)
You can also go for a hike on St. Zenon hiking route, which
begins at Škarline and leads back to Brtonigla; the walk takes
about two hours, depending on your pace. The hike is an easy
one: a macadam road passing through vineyards, and only a
NOTE: There are seve-
ral villages in Istria that small portion is asphalted. The route is well marked, courtesy
go by the name Nova of Friends of Nature association, whose members take care
Vas (Eng. New Village). of the route’s signs and marks.
Nova Vas referred to in
You might also like to visit Mirna River Delta, an ornithological
this text is the one near
Brtonigla, not the one reserve and a popular biking area. Park your car at Antenal
near Poreč, or the one (next to Novigrad) and go on a bike safari in search for numer-
near Kršan, etc. ous birds!
 11

Škarline Canyon

Basic Information
TICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn

LOCATION:
1.7 km to the N-NE of the village of
Nova Vas (near Brtonigla)

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:

St. Zenon hiking route
Mirna River Delta ornithological reser-
ve (Antenal, next to Novigrad)
 ˇ KA NATURE PARK
UC
A view from the above
This gorgeous part of Istria combines rich forests, educational
trails, fountains, a tower, evidence of ancient events in the Earth’s
crust, and – finally – a fantastic view of the entire Kvarner Bay! You
can see some of the Kvarner islands and all the way to the moun-
tain tops of Gorski Kotar, Velebit, the Alps, and Italy. Učka Nature
Park stretches across 160 km2, and its highest mountain peak
Vojak (1401 m) is also the highest mountain peak of Istria. Vojak
Tower, built in 1911 during the Austro-Hungarian rule by mountain
climbers and nature enthusiasts, was used by the Austro-Hungar-
ian army as a military and naval lookout post in World War I. Take a
walk on Plas educational trail (2 km long) which begins about 300
meters further away. There are so many places to visit in Učka
Nature Park… Do not miss some of the following:
• Veli Planik, the second highest mountain peak of the park. It
12 belongs to a different mountain: Ćićarija. Take this opportunity to
enjoy a unique 360o all-around view from its peak.
• Medieval castle of Kožljak, built on a steep cliff above the former
lake of Čepić, still recalls the turbulent past. A series of coats
of arms chiselled into the rock tells a tale of numerous owners,
battles and dreams dreamt by people just like us, but from long,
long ago.
• Korita (Eng. Troughs), a meadow at 1000 m above sea level,
where a mountain stream pouring into nine solid wooden trou-
ghs, overflowing from one into another. In the past, the troughs
www.pp-ucka.hr were a major water source for the local people and their cattle,
but today Korita is a popular destination for people who like to
enjoy beautiful views and pristine nature. Visit the nearby mo-
untain hut and have a cup of tea prepared from local aromatic
herbs. A well-marked trail from the village of Brgudac (park your
car there) takes about 45 minutes on foot, making Korita easily
reachable.
• Vranjska draga (a.k.a. Vela draga) is a canyon located on the
landlocked side of Učka Mountain. The unique canyon was for-
med due to the collapse of a ceiling of what was once a huge
underground river; the pillars which once supported the ceiling
nowadays stick out pointing to the sky. The canyon is a popular
destination for free climbers.
 • Visit the Trebišća-Perun history and
mythology trail, and dive into the my-
stic age of the first Slavic settlers on
Kvarner! From the very entrance, this
gorge tells an exciting tale of their
most sacred beliefs. Leave your car in
Mošćenička Draga and embark on this
whole-day trip.
...and much, much more!
More information is available at
www.pp-ucka.hr/en

Basic Information
TICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn.
You can hire a guide for any of the excursions,
and at a very affordable price, too. Price list at
www.pp-ucka.hr/en
13
LOCATION: Učka, Ćićarija
NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:
Raspadalica is a plateau next to Buzet,
an ideal spot for paragliding, free
climbing, mountain biking, adventure
races, caving, etc. Start from Buzet
and drive to the end of the road which
leads from Buzet train station to the vil-
lage of Slum, and then continue on a
macadam road for another 2 km until
you reach Raspadalica plateau.
Žbevnica is another lovely plateau.
Start from Buzet and drive towards
Brest, after which continue towards
the village of Dane. At the saddle turn
left to a macadam road. Turn left by the
antenna, continue for another kilome-
tre and park your car next to the for-
mer entrance to an underground water
tank. Proceed on foot for another 500
meters uphill, following the mountain
trail towards west, and here you are
at Žbevnica.
 TRIP No. 1:
The Sea, Vampires, the Stars,
the Underground, and Great
Wine – All in the Same Day!
BAREDINE Go underground for refreshment! The in-
terior of this geomorphological monument will reveal
its amazing rock formations which have been form-
ing for millions of years, and provide you with a welcome refreshment
from summer heat. In addition to visiting the cave, you can also try out
the basic caving techniques of going up and down the rope, get some
www.baredine.com refreshments in the coffee bar and the fast food, or pay a visit to Tractor
Story, a museum with numerous old photographies and agricultural ma-
chinery, an art gallery and a wine boutique. If you wish to try out the caving
techniques, you should announce your arrival by phone a few hours in
advance, so that the personnel have enough time to prepare the neces-
14 sary equipment. Two donkeys, Keko the goat, geese and ducks will keep
you company at Baredine. How to get there? Go to the village of Nova
Vas (4.5 km to the west of Višnjan) and from there follow the road signs
to Baredine for another 1.3 km. Ticket prices range from 35.00 to 60.00
www.speleolit.com
kuna, rope climbing costs 40.00-50.00, and tractor museum tickets cost
20.00-30.00 kuna.
More information is available at www.baredine.com, www.speleolit.com,
and www.traktorstory.com.

VIŠNJAN You have probably heard of the

Višnjan Observatory? One of the most effi-
cient observatories in the World in discovering
asteroids was located here for years. However,
even this charming little town’s light pollution
www.traktorstory.com
eventually became too great for the observatory, so in 2009 a new ob-
servatory was built next to the village of Tićan, 2.5 km away. How to get
there? Take the road from Višnjan towards Karojba, and when you see a
huge tree and a big rock looking like a table on your right, turn left to a
narrow road through a vineyard and leading to the observatory. The first
scene is fantastic: an old church and a modern observatory stand fac-
ing each other on a well-groomed meadow. There is also a replica of a
pre-historic calendar (the so-called Istrian Stonehenge, originally located
near Poreč, on a hill called Mali Sveti Anđeo – Little Holy Angel in English),
www.astro.hr and various measuring instruments. Call +385-5-2-449-212 to inquire
 Poreč

about a preannounced group of visitors, join

them for a tour of the observatory and find out
anything and everything you have ever wanted
to know about the stars, the Solar system and
the known universe!
More information is available at www.astro.hr/
pocetna.php.
RADOVAN WINERY In the village of Radovani,
the surname of 80% of the population is Rado-
van. The village is located on a hill, so it has a
lovely view of the sea.
Every house has a
huge iron gate. Call
+385-52-462-166
to announce your
arrival a few hours
in advance, to make sure the household mem-
bers are at home. With the sound of crickets
and the taste of cool wine in your mouth you
will sense what the summer is like in the Istrian
countryside. How to get there? After the visit the
observatory return to the main road, proceed
towards Karojba for another 600 meters and
at the crossroad turn right (towards Baderna).
After about 4 km you will see a road sign direct-
ing you right to Radovani. When you reach the
village you will see the winery’s sign under a
road mirror. Turn right, pass the bowling court
and turn right again, and then slowly proceed
to the end of the village.
cocktails. The Vampire Menu awaits you at the
nearby Danijeli tavern, which we warmly rec-
ommend regardless of whether you are into
vampires or not (see p. 28).
POREČ One of the shiniest jewels of the Istrian
coastline. The small town is rich in mosaics
(the Euphrasian Basilica), numerous evening
events in the historical centre, and great piz-
zerias, while its surroundings are full of lovely
bike routes. The famous film director Luc
Besson used to spend his childhood sum-
mers here, diving with his father at the Plava
laguna (Eng. Blue Lagoon). Plava laguna was
a source of inspiration for his movie The Big 15
Blue; also note that the blue alien singer from
the movie The Fifth Element was named Diva
Plavalaguna. There are many opportunities for
fun in Poreč, such as the aquarium and one
of the nine sensory plays from the project Is-
tra Inspirit: Iustitia, a fantastic interactive play
followed by a rich baroque-style dinner for the
audience (see pp. 24-25).

KRINGA The village of Kringa is becoming in-

creasingly famous due to the first documented
vampire in Europe. Jure Grando was a peasant
who terrorised his widow and the fellow-villag-
ers for sixteen full years. Finally, after a couple
of unsuccessful attempts, a group of nine men
lead by the parson managed to settle this vam-
pire problem… This entire case, which involves
one parson, one undead, a wooden stake, nine
men and a lot of fear, can be explored at the Jure
Grando Museum. Vampire literary evenings are
held once a month at Vampir bar; if you miss
out on them, at least try one of their vampire
 TRIP No. 2:
From hill to hill through
the Kingdom of Truffles!

MOTOVUN The most famous little town in Istria became widely known
thanks to its appearance in Vladimir Nazor’s tale Veli Jože (Eng. Big Jo-
seph), a touching story of a kind-hearted giant. For the younger genera-
tions the town is best known as the site of Motovun Film Festival, symbol-
ized by a propeller – in homage to Josef Ressel, a Motovun citizen who
invented the propeller, an endless screw. In the Patent Office records his
invention was defined as an endless screw which can propel the ship
both forwards and in reverse. Josef Ressel, Czech by origin, was sent to
Motovun Motovun as district forester, particularly responsible for the afforestation
of the entire area. Motovun forest is known as one of the most productive
truffle habitats in the world, both white and black truffle alike. You will no-
16 tice dogs in many yards: they are truffle-searching dogs, specially trained
to sniff out this underground delicacy. Contrary to the general belief, pigs
are not used in truffle searching. You will have to leave the car at the Park-
ing lot at the foot of the hill, but the view from the town walls is absolutely
worth the trouble of climbing all the way up to the top. Having a cup of
coffee in one of the bars at the town walls is a pleasure everyone should
be able to experience. The river Mirna passes just beneath Motovun, so
in the morning the town seems like an island floating on a sea of morn-
ing mist. Take a look down from the town walls and imagine Veli Joža
tilling the fertile land with a huge hoe. A piece of advice: if you approach
Motovun from the road Poreč-Pazin, the town will look like an island in
a sea of vineyards.

PUHI The village of Puhi offers a real treat for the curious. Certainly at
this point you have already heard a lot about the truffles, and came to
wonder: OK, so what is the deal with these truffles? You will finally get
the answers to all your questions about this underground delicacy, be-
cause here you will meet Kristijan Krt, truffle wholesale merchant. Mr
Krt is a kind and friendly man who will gladly tell and show you anything
you would like to know about truffles. The Krt family also make excellent
red and white wine which is sold at a very affordable price. Call +385-
98-224-109 or +385-98-415-344 a few hours in advance to announce
your arrival. The best time to visit Puhi is on weekends, but also during
the week there is always someone at home. How to get there? Take the
road from Motovun towards Buzet and turn right (to the south-east) and
cross a bridge over Mirna river, following the
road sign to Puhi. About 1.6 km after the bridge
turn left, and proceed for another 800 meters
to the village of Puhi and the home of Mr Krt.
Be careful not to end up in the village of Krti, a
couple of kilometres down the road.

LIVADE A village opposite to Motovun, situated

on the other bank of Mirna River, is the centre
of Zigante Truffle Production. Here you can
find out more about truffles, but also about the
Parenzana (see pp. 6-7). Already on the way
down from Motovun you will see a small sign
for the Parenzana, so you can include it in your
trip if you have enough time and energy. In Li- GROŽNJAN Known as the town of artists,
vade there is the Parenzana Museum, which is Grožnjan is a venue for various art workshops
free of charge: you only need to call +385-52- throughout the year. While you walk down the
644-150 and announce your arrival an hour in streets, from every other house you can hear
advance, so that the guide could come to open the sounds of musicians practicing their instru-
up and give you a tour. ments. Have a cup of coffee at terrace of the
bar Vero (the building behind the main stage 17
OPRTALJ The homey and intimate atmos- of the jazz festival), and enjoy a fantastic view
phere of this hidden pearl unknown to most of Motovun and the fairytale-like landscape of
tourists will surely warm up your heart. This lit- the Istrian countryside. Find a way to the west-
tle town on a hill and ern side of the town, from where you can see
its brightly coloured the sunset over the sea. We recommend the
houses is locat- international jazz festival Jazz Is Back BP, tak-
ed near, but still far ing place during July and August.
away from the usual
tourist routes. If you
wish to have a taste
Oprtalj of genuine local spe-
cialties, have lunch
at Loggia tavern (see p. 29), situated right be-
neath the town loggia newt to the main Park-
ing lot. How to get there? Pass straight through
Livade and take the road winding uphill, con-
tinue driving for another 6.2 km, and you will be
at Oprtalj. Some events taking place in Oprtalj
should be singled out: the Antiques Fair (sec-
ond Sunday every month), the international folk
music festival Alpe Adria folk fest (July), and the
International Accordionists’ Meeting (August), a
loud and cheerful event with a bunch of accor-
dion players and great music.
 TRIP No. 3:
A trip through the odd
PAZIN The biggest town in the Istrian countryside is home to Pazinska
jama (Eng. the Cave of Pazin, see pp. 8-9), Pazinski kaštel (Eng. the Castle
of Pazin), over one hundred various species of trees, and much, much
more. At the end of June the manifestation Jules Verne Days takes place.
The protagonist of Jules Verne’s novel Mathias Sandorf was held captive
at the castle, but managed to escape using the lightning rod to descend
into the Pazin cave, from where he rode the underground river all the way
to Limski kanal (Eng. Lim Channel). Of course, such a trip is not possible,
but the escape was brought to life in Jules Verne: the Escape from the
Castle, a fantastic play accompanied by a dinner for the audience, as well
as entertainment from that age. The play is one of nine plays from the
project Istra Inspirit (see pp. 24-25).

ZAREČKI KROV A small, deep

lake of fresh water with a little wa-
terfall is a popular swimming des-
18 tination among local people. The
lake is especially popular among
the young, because they can jump
Zarečki krov from the 6-7 meters high rock roof-
ing over a semi-cave, an extension
of the lake’s coastline. Do not be perplexed by the colour of the water: the
clay soil dissolved in water gives it a bluish-green, non-transparent colour.
The rocks surrounding the lake are a popular destination for free climbers,
especially because they can climb the semi-cave’s ceiling. In the winter,
ice climbers can try out the frozen waterfall. Zarečki krov is located just
outside Pazin: start from the centre of Pazin, and take the old road towards
Učka tunnel (not the highway!). At the city limit sign turn left, and continue
on the macadam road for another 300 meters. Considering the intimate
nature of the ambiance and the fact that it is located on private property,
we implore you to take special care of the environment. If you are in a
bigger group, try to use as few cars as possible, and park the remaining
cars at a Parking lot in Pazin.

BAŽON WINERY When they are not at the vineyard, the members of this
friendly and hardworking family are at the wine tasting room, and vice
versa. For this reason you should call +385-52-621-997 and announce
your arrival in advance. You will get a tour of the property in the company
of their well-mannered dogs, and finish up facing numerous bottles of
wine and rakija (Eng. brandy) at the tasting room. There are four types of
degustations you can choose from, differing in combinations and quantity
of food and drink, the richest one being practically an entire meal. Consid-
 PIĆAN The correct ac-
cent is Pićan. The little
town seems to have
come to life from a fair-
ytale, especially if you
visit it at the end of July
(usually the last week- www.legendfest.hr
end in July). You will find yourself surrounded
by fairies, dragons, druids, wizards, enchant-
Gračišće resses, and other magical creatures! Legend-
ering the combination of great wine and light- fest, a popular festival of myths and legends,
hearted atmosphere, it is a real challenge to has been taking place for years at Pićan at the
restrain oneself from having too much to drink. end of July. Plays, concerts and workshops will
Therefore, if you are planning to visit Bažon win- be a delight for all generations, from little chil-
ery, first choose the poor thing who is to be the dren to adults who have managed to keep their
designated driver, and – enjoy! imagination alive! More information available
at www.legendfest.hr
GRAČIŠĆE The site of two truly unique church-
es, a Venetian palace, and a great tavern to have
lunch at! The miniature town of Gračišće seems
to be stuck in the past, and in the future it is sure 19
to become one of the shiniest jewels of the Is-
trian countryside. However, its present condition
enables you to take a direct glance into the past!
The main church is situated at the top of the
town, so from its lawn you can enjoy an amaz-
ing view of the entire surrounding countryside.
Next to the town gate you will see the Salomon
palace with still visible remains of frescoes on
the ceilings, and the little church of Sveta Marije
na Placu (Eng. Saint Mary at the Square) is right
across the palace. Frescoes and Glagolitic graf-
fiti inside the church date back to the 15th cen-
tury, but due to certain symbols on its walls the
church is sometimes mentioned in a somewhat
mystical context of the Knights Templars and
the Freemasons, and even the Illuminati. Note
the big stone block with circular holes of various
sizes: in the past, the holes were used as meas-
ures for grain and liquids. The church’s outer
wall is full of iron nails hammered into the stone,
as a plea by barren women to Mother Mary to
bless them with children. People say that mira-
cles were known to happen. We recommend
having lunch at Marino (see p.30), a tavern in
front of the church and the palace.
 TRIP No. 4:
e
A tribute to Ancient Rom
ice
and the Republic of Ven
LIM CHANNEL (Limski kanal) Despite its fjord-like appearance, Lim
Channel is not a fjord: it was not formed by glacial activity, but by a pre-
historic river which eventually disappeared, mainly due to the rising of
the sea level. Nevertheless, the channel successfully posed as a fjord in
The Vikings, a movie starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis, filmed here in
1958. A 10-kilometer long channel is the finishing part of a 35-kilometer
long Limska Draga Hollow. You can take a boat tour of the channel: tourist
Lim Channel boats are waiting for visitors in front of the restaurant at the beginning of
the channel. The name of the channel is supposedly derived from the Latin
word limes, which means border. It is known that in the Ancient Roman
times the channel represented a natural border line between the ager of
Pula and the ager of Poreč. Numerous ancient artefacts were found at
the bottom of the channel, but all of them were found broken. Histori-
20 ans presume that ancient ships used the channel as refuge from violent
storms: while waiting for the storm to calm, the crew would undertake a
major clean-up and got rid of all the objects that were damaged during the
turbulent voyage. And a bonus curiosity for the end: the end of the channel
is called Cul da Limo, which means Lim’s Bum.

DVIGRAD Located inside the Limska Draga Hollow near Kanfanar, the
castle of Dvigrad has had a turbulent history and eventually slowly died
out, gradually remaining without all of its inhabitants. Once upon a time
there were two castles (hence the name Dvigrad, or Duo Castra in Latin,
meaning Two Castles), but only one of them survived. The castle was built
on a high ground at the junction point of a couple of important roads. Due
to a strategically excellent location, there was a building at this site already
Dvigrad in prehistoric times. As the rulers changed, so did the castle. Today, still
standing are the city gate, the defence tower, the remains of numerous
houses, and the church of Saint Sophia. The town had as much as 2000
inhabitants at some point; just try to imagine all the life! A relief depicting
the symbol of Dvigrad, St. Sophia holding one castle in each hand, can be
seen in the parish church in Kanfanar.
Svetvinčenat
SVETVINČENAT The town centre is dominated by the castle, the first
thing you notice when you enter Savičenta, as the locals call this town.
The green meadow in front of the castle is used as a football court and as
venue for numerous events taking place all through the summer, such as
the Medieval Fest in August. The castle was once one of the strongholds
along the border between the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Mon-
archy, the present-day border between Žminj
and Savičenta districts. Built from a single point
prospective, Savičenta historical centre is an
exemplar of ideal Renaissance town, a fact
which earned the town a place at the Museum
of Renaissance in Paris, France. The castle of
Savičenta is where Mare the Witch takes place,
a sensation play with an actual bonfire and ac- Rovinj
companied by a Renaissance feast for the audi-
ence (see pp. 24-25). If you think of it as a dinner sula. Many people agree that Rovinj is the most
accompanied by a fantastic play, it is absolutely beautiful Istrian coastal town, with intimate nar-
worth it! The play is one of nine such sensation row streets, art galleries and bars. The seaside
plays from the project Istra Inspirit. We recom- houses seem to arise directly from the sea,
mend lunch at Kod kaštela, a tavern just across somewhat reminding of Venice. Visit the Aquar-
the castle, at the opposite side of the meadow ium of Rovinj, the oldest in Croatia (located next
(see p. 31). to the main Parking lot, summer opening hours
09:00-21:00). The museum Batana House is
FEŠTINSKO KRALJEVSTVO Local children dedicated to a typical local flat-bottomed fish-
gave the cave its name (whose name means ing boat and to the way fishermen used to live.
the Kingdom of Feštini), because in a child’s The museum even published a cookbook with
mind it really does look like a kingdom: full of recipes for old fishermen’s dishes, such as fried
beautiful, discreetly lit cave ornaments, making sea anemones. Do not miss out on Spacio, a 21
a real treat for an imaginative mind. If there are sensation play accompanied by an old-style
children in the group visiting the cave, they will dinner for the audience. The play is one of nine
hear from the King of the Cave (through the hole such sensation plays from the project Istra In-
in the cave’s ceiling – but do not tell them that!). spirit (see pp. 24-25). Saint Euphemia’s Basilica,
The temperature inside the cave ranges from harbouring the sarcophagus with the saint’s
13 to 15°C, so by all means bring some warm remains, is located at the top of the town. The
clothes: a long shirt and trousers, and shoes square in front of the basilica is a perfect place
or sneakers if possible. Despite the summer to enjoy the sunset.
heat in the outside world, the chill in the under-
ground might take you by surprise! The cave
is surrounded by a nicely groomed meadow,
where you can lay down and rest, have a picnic,
or visit the cages with small animals, such as
guinea hens, pygmy hens, turtles, etc. There
are also various educational boards, such as
the story about quartz sand which used to be
mined here and then transported to Murano to
be turned into Murano Glass. The easiest way to
get there is to follow the road signs from Žminj.
(for basic information, see p. 9)

ROVINJ Surrounded by little islands, the histori-

cal centre itself used to be an island: a channel
with a bridge connecting it to the mainland was
filled up in 1763, and Rovinj became a penin-
 TRIP No.5:
A salty-Sweet trip with
memorable views
RAŠA The youngest town in Istria is interesting for two reasons: first, it
looks as if it were not in Istria at all; and second, it was built in accord-
ance with Mussolini’s planned construction projects, so it has two identical
twins: the first is located near Rome, and the other at Sardinia. All three
towns were designed by Gustavo Pulitzer Finali, and Raša was built in no
more and no less than 547 days. Since the town was built for the needs
of mining, it is not surprising that even the town church is shaped like a
turned-over mine cart, the bell tower reminds of a mining lamp, and the
church itself is dedicated to Saint Barbara, the patroness of miners. The
style the town was built in was considered very modern at the time. From
a town-planning viewpoint, Raša is considered exemplar of humane archi-
tecture: every house consisted of four two-bedroom apartments and had
some green surface around it, and the town had a post office, a school, a
22 hotel, a movie theatre, and even a public swimming pool.

TRGET Already the trip to Trget is a unique experience: while driving along
the river Raša, you can follow how the river becomes more and more
mixed with sea water, watching its colour change before your eyes as you
approach the sea. The sandy estuary is home to many bird species. The
easiest way to find Trget is to take the road from Barban to Labin, and take
a turn at Most Raša following the river Raša towards the sea. Pass the
marine border crossing, three large cranes, and even though at this point
it will seem you have reached the end, go pass the green sea beacon,
across the little bridge, and here you are at Trget! The little fishing village
is quite secluded and will be found only by people who know exactly what
Trget they are looking for. The search is worth the trouble because here you will
find a real gourmet jewel: Martin Pescador (see p. 32), a tavern where you
can have a really good lunch.

SWIMMING TIME!!! If you are in the mood for a swim, whether salty
or not, there are several possibilities en route. If you wish to freshen up
in a river, you can have a swim in the river Raša, just under the bridge at
Most Raša. At Trget you can try what swimming is like in brackish water
(mixture of salty and fresh water), and if you prefer the sea we recommend
you set off to Viškovići, from where you can go to Tunarica camp. The
camp will be a good choice for those who like civilized beaches (entrance
is free, even by car). On the other hand, if you prefer natural beaches, leave
your car at the entrance to the camp and go on for another 250 metres on
foot, following the macadam road leading to Hrvatske šume entrance gate.
At the gate turn left, walk for 200 meters, and
continue straight ahead onto a narrow passage
through the bushes that leads to the sea. There
you will find a stony coast and clear water. You
can also go to Labin Luka: at the roundabout
south of Labin start following road signs, and
after about 4 to 5 kilometres you will find a
number of uncrowded little beaches. Labin

the mines with the help from local farmers.

Skitača
SKITAČA When you are at Viškovići, turn right
and pass through Brovinje village. Do not let the
narrow road confuse you: just carry on. After a
few kilometres uphill you will reach a wide rest-
ing area by the road with a view of the island of
Cres, and the entire Kvarner Bay: Rijeka, Učka
Mountain and its plateaus, Rabac, Labin, and
the other islands. Take your time to explore this
beautiful part of Istria, immersed in sound of
crickets and aromatic aromas! At the village of
Skitača there is a mountain hut where you can
have a cup of tea prepared from local herbs (if
you find it open). There are also biking and hik-
ing trails passing through the area; due to sum-
mer heat, we recommend you explore them in
the springtime or in the autumn.
The Miners’ Republic lasted only for a month;
however, Labin Art Republic comes to life
every year during July and August. Old squares,
streets, and city stairs become a stage, and the
sounds of local, classical and jazz music fill up
the streets of Labin. You will enjoy the sensation
play The Miners’ Republic, one of nine sensa-
tion plays from the project Istra Inspirit (see pp.
24-25). After a tour of the old centre climb the
bell tower and enjoy the view!
If you have enough time and energy you can 23
go to Plomin, a little town 10 kilometres away
(towards Rijeka) with an excellent view of the
Plomin Bay and the power plant with a huge
black pile of coal. Another 2.5 kilometres down
the road there is the Flanona hotel, with an unu-
sual semi-circle terrace perfect for enjoying the
view of Kvarner Bay over a cup of coffee and an
excellent cake.

LABIN A cobbled street will lead you uphill to

the historical centre. At one point, the colourful
former mining town of Labin became the Min-
ers’ Republic: in 1921, two thousand miners
called a general strike, took over the mines, and
pronounced a republic under the motto kova
je nasa (the mine is ours), organized their own
local government and the red guard as protec-
tion against the fascists, and began managing
 ISTRA INSPIRIT
Travel th rough Tim e!
ces, a Sea of ´
Sensations,
Nine Experien e Istria.
a Myriad of Flavours, On
MYTHICAL CREATURES OF ISTRIA - Enjoy an interactive program for
children and adults, including sketches, workshops and playrooms with
Istrian mythological creatures and legends. While watching a play of the
ancient circus that once provided entertainment at fairs with unusual
musicians, jugglers, clowns and fakirs, you can try the magic potions of
sorceresses and sorcerers and the food of the giant Veli Jože!
TICKET PRICE: 100 HRK per person (14 €)
LOCATION: Pula, Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria

CRISPO - The year is 326, and Crispo has just returned from war and his
father, Constantine the Great, declares him his heir. Fausta, Crispo’s step-
mother, tries to seduce him but does not succeed and decides to seek her
revenge. This play takes you into the world of Roman plots and intrigues,
24 love, hate and revenge, followed by a feast of dishes made according to
ancient Roman recipes.
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Medulin, Vižula archaeological site

SPACIO - Not so long ago, fishermen would catch fish from their batana
(a type of boat), while farmers made wine, after which they would all meet
in the Spacio (tavern) and sing about their lives, the sea, the countryside,
tales of unhappy loves and happy endings. They would comment every-
day events and sometimes, filled with wine and fish, they would quarrel...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €),
LOCATION: Rovinj, Batana Eco museum in the historical centre

MARE THE WITCH - In 1632 Mare Radolovich was a local herbalist and
healer who was accused of witchcraft by her neighbours, the same peo-
ple that she had healed and helped. They accused her of making a pact
with the devil, declared her a witch and condemned her to death by burn-
ing at the stake in the castle’s courtyard. Did she survive? Discover the
truth at this renaissance feast in a magnificent Venetian fortress...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Svetvinčenat, The Grimani-Morosini Castle

THE LIGHTHOUSE OF LOVE - The year 1818 marked the construction of

the lighthouse that will later serve as love nest for Count Metternich and
his lover, a young woman from Savudrija. Experience the delight of this
forbidden love with the sound of a crackling fire and the fragrances and
flavours of love potions. Enjoy the dishes sprinkled with aphrodisiacs and
follow the story of two lovers...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Savudrija, Lighthouse

IUSTITIA - In the year 1699, the infamous robber Domenico Furlan de-
stroyed the tabernacle of the Basilica in Poreč and stole its gold and silver
ornaments. At his trial, he was found guilty of this unprecedented act and
was executed. Join the people’s celebration of justice served that turns
into a baroque celebration...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Poreč, Peškera Bay

JULES VERNE: ESCAPE FROM THE CASTLE - In Jules Verne’s novel,

in 1867 Mathias Sandorf was preparing a conspiracy for the secession
of Hungary from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. But, he was discovered,
and after a trial, was thrown in the Castle of Pazin to await execution. San-
dorf and two other conspirators managed to escape from the castle by de-
scending the cliff of the Cave of Pazin into its abyss. Enjoy this adrenaline
adventure followed by a party, drinks and music from original historical 25
time period.
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Pazin, the Castle of Pazin

THE MINERS’ REPUBLIC - Take a walk through the year 1921, 150 me-
ters below ground, under 20 million tons of stone, where there were no
sunlight, sky and perception of time, there was only the darkness... and
REVOLUTION! This difficult and touching story about the human strength
and pride will reveal the life of miners in one day, from their job to their
meals...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Labin, Lamparna and the Raša coal mine

OLD BUZET - In an extraordinary surrounding you will experience sounds,

flavours and fragrances, talk and music, sights and spirit of the 20th cen-
tury and the past times. You will make your bread in the old-fashioned way,
learn old dances accompanied by the sound of accordion, double bass
and violin, play the game ‘pljočke’, or simply take a walk and discover the
streets and squares, old workshops, tasting rooms, wine shops, souvenir
shops...
TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)
LOCATION: Buzet, historical centre

More information available at www.istrainspirit.hr

26
AGROTOURISM
ˇ IC
TONtryC ´ (ZRENJ)
An idyllic coun side estate
Tončić Agrotourism is run by brother and sister Sandro and Orjeta; how-
ever, three generations of Tončić family live there, and all of them are in-
volved in running the estate and entertaining the visitors. The house, once
upon a time a barn, has a wonderful panoramic view of Učka, Buzet, and
Mirna river valley. The peace and quiet of the landscape fills your heart with
pleasure. The family members are into hunting and truffle hunting. They
also have a big garden and lots of domestic animals: truffle-searching
dogs, chickens, cows, goats, sheep, and cats. At the meadow next to the Agrotourism Tončić
terrace there is a couple of metres-high apple tree growing from solid rock.
The kitchen does not open for less than ten people, so if you are on your
own you should call up in advance and see if there is a group scheduled
for dinner. If there is (and there probably is) you can join in. As it is always
crowded in the winter, you should announce your arrival in advance.

SPECIALTIES
All food is produced either at or near the estate: meat and cured meat prod-
ucts, sheep cheese, wine, various kinds of rakija (medica – honey rakija,
biska – mistletoe rakija, and kimel – cumin rakija), and the vegetables are 27
from their own garden. All products are homemade, and the food is sea-
sonal: mushrooms, asparagus, black or white truffles (depending on the
season), etc. They also make five types of homemade pasta. In the winter try
the corn maneštra (thick vegetable soup) and jota (sauerkraut). The owners
especially recommend wild boar goulash, and homemade cakes.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 50.00 (homemade pasta with Istrian ox
goulash) to 150.00 kuna (homemade pasta with white truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner.......................Izak Tončić Credit Cards..............None
Address.....................Čabarnica 42, Zrenj Web Page..................None
Phone........................052/644-146 Parking......................In front
091/20 60 512
Opening Hours: FRI-SUN 12:30-23:00 (kitchen is open until 21:00)
MON-THURS with prior announcement - Closed throughout July

Getting there: Take the road Buzet–Motovun and turn north, towards
Livade village. At the roundabout in Livade pass straight and proceed on
the winding road uphill for another 6.5 km, pass through Oprtalj and follow
the road signs for Zrenj. Follow the main road passing through Zrenj and
heading south and turn left after about 350 metres. Half a kilometre away
at the road’s end you will see Tončić Agrotourism.
TAVERN
DANIJ ELIet m(NeaEAl R KRINGA)
yle gourm
Vampire-st
Danijeli tavern is located in the village of Danijeli, next to Kringa. A
word for the uninformed: Kringa has a vampire story of its own, the one
about Jure Grando – the first documented vampire in Europe. Therefore
Kringa is home to Jure Grando Museum, Vampir bar where you try one
of their vampire cocktails, and vampire literary evenings are held once
a month either at Vampir bar or at Danijeli tavern. Whether you believe
in vampires or not, a visit to Danijeli tavern will bring you great pleas-
ure. You can also order a vampire menu, with dishes from The Vampire
Cookbook by B. Perić.
If you prefer walking in the daylight, use your time before lunch to visit
the Dry Stone Trail, a circular hiking route beginning at Kringa football
Tavern Danijeli
field. You can add a stone to the centuries-old dry stone walls, thus
making a contribution of your own; if you contact the local prefect or
Danijeli tavern, you will even get a souvenir certificate. You can also
bring your own stone, as many have done already – even from other
states.

28 SPECIALTIES
Being a true countryside tavern, Danijeli does not offer fish; however,
you will surely forget about it over a dish of Istrian soup (see note at
p. 6), Istrian ox (boškarin) prosciutto in oil, fresh seasonal dishes with
homemade pasta, and Istrian maneštra (thick vegetable soup). You can
also have the vampire menu, which needs to be ordered in advance.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 35.00 (asparagus or porcini mush-
rooms omelette) to 120.00 kuna (beefsteak stuffed with prosciutto and
cheese).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner...................... Mirjana Fabris Credit Cards............. None
Address................... Danijeli 76, Tinjan Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 091/6866-588 Parking.................... In front

Opening Hours TUES-FRI 14:00-23:00, SAT 13:00-02:00, SUN 12:00-24:00

(closed on MONDAYS, and from 10th to 31st January)

Getting there:
Take the main road Pazin–Poreč, turn left by the Na kapeli
tavern, and after 6 kilometres you will get to Kringa. Pass through Kringa
and proceed; the main road will lead you to the village of Danijeli, where
you will see Danijeli tavern on your right.
TAVERN
LOGGIAe to(OPRTALJ)
wn loggia
Hidden under th
Loggia tavern is situated in the very heart of the colourful little town
of Oprtalj, under the town loggia. A small, simple terrace with a few
tables and a charming homey interior form the perfect ambience in
which to enjoy the tavern’s simple and excellent food. Homemade food
all year round is just one of the advantages this tavern has to offer. Big-
ger groups can have their lunch organized in the town loggia. The family
who owns the tavern also has a local homemade products boutique
about 50 meters from the tavern, where you can sample and buy, as
a gastronomic souvenir, various sorts of wine and rakija, meat prod-
ucts, cheese, honey, etc. The shop can be visited whenever the tavern
is open: you only need to tell one of the tavern employees you would
like to visit the shop, and someone will take you there right away. During
truffle season you can call the tavern to see whether there is a group
scheduled for a truffle hunting demonstration which you can then join
in. The demonstration takes about two hours and it will satisfy your
curiosity about this underground delicacy. Tavern Loggia
29
SPECIALTIES
Oprtalj and Livade area being one of the richest truffle habitats in the world, this tavern offers
a range of truffle dishes. The owner recommends the Istrian platter (a plate containing Istrian
smoked ham, sausage, steak, cutlet, sheep cheese, and truffle flavoured cheese), served all year
long. Also worth mentioning are the nettle-filled ravioli, and the dessert is the one and only: the
sweet raviolo, a pasta casing filled with fig jam and coated in teran wine chateau. The owner
says everybody orders the sweet raviolo, so there is no need to introduce other desserts. All of
the above will be nicely rounded up with their homemade wine.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 35.00 (sausage omelette) to 150.00 kuna (beefsteak with truffles
and side dish).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner...................... Daniel Coslovich Credit Cards............. None
Address................... Matka Laginje bb, Oprtalj Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 052/644-219 Parking.................... None
Opening Hours: 01st April – 30th October 10:00-24:00 every day
01st November – 31st March closed on TUESDAYS - 07th -31st January closed
Getting there:
Take the road Buzet–Motovun and turn north, towards Livade village. At the roundabout in Livade
pass straight and proceed on the winding road uphill for another 6.5 km. In Oprtalj leave the car
at the parking lot next to the red coloured town loggia, visible from the town entrance. Loggia
tavern is situated at the opposite side of the loggia.
 TAVERN
MARIN O (GReACˇ IŠC´ E)
memory lan
A trip down
Tavern Marino
Situated across Solomon palace and the
town gate, the tavern is listed in Lonely Plan-
et’s Western Balkans travel guide. A town plan
painted at its outer wall will be helpful if you
wish to take a tour of Gračišće. The tavern and
the town are inseparably linked, so let us men-
tion the amazing view from the lawn of the
nearby main church, and the little church of
Sveta Marija na Placu (St. Mary at the Market)
right next to the tavern. Frescoes and Glagolitic
graffiti inside the church date back to the 15th
century, but due to certain symbols on its walls the church is sometimes mentioned in a some-
what mystical context of the Knights Templars and the Freemasons, and even the Illuminati. Note
the big stone block with circular holes of different sizes – the holes were used as measures
for grain and liquids. Inside the tavern there are many old items, such as old dishes, baskets, a
wagon, harness, furniture, and an old open fireplace, lit most of the year (except in the summer,
naturally). By that fireplace you will feel the very special atmosphere of Marino tavern and the
30 little town of Gračišće.

SPECIALTIES
Suggestion: if you still have not tried the Istrian soup (see note at p. 6), Marino provides the ideal
ambiance to try Istrian field labourers’ traditional beverage (or meal?). Warmed up teran wine
with olive oil, a bit of pepper and spices is served with fire roasted bread, and will instantly warm
you up on a cold winter day. If you are in the mood for genuine Istrian cooking, a corn maneštra
(thick vegetable soup) and homemade pasta with game stew will be the right choice. In the
winter regain your strength with some homemade sausages and smoked pork fillet.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 35.00 (grilled turkey steak) to 80.00 kuna
(homemade pasta with truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner...................... Svetlana Buljan Credit Cards............. None
Address................... Gračišće 75, Gračišće Web Page................ www.konoba-marino-gracisce.hr
Phone...................... 052/687-081 Parking.................... Park outside the town,
near the town gate
Opening Hours: 14:00-23:00, closed on WEDNESDAYS - (14:00-22:00 in the winter)

Getting there:
Gračišće is 8 km away from Pazin (a 10-minute drive). Start from Pazin, taking the road to-
wards Vozilići and Brestova ferry port. When you reach Gračišće town walls, leave your car
outside the walls. Walk through the town gate and you will be right in front of Marino tavern.
TAVERN
ˇ TE
KOD KAS LAˇ NAT)
(SVETVINCE
stleedieval ca
Across the way from a m
Kod kaštela (At the Castle) tavern is situated next to a green meadow
in front of the Castle of Svetvinčenat (called Savičenta among the lo-
cals). The friendly personnel are full of information about the surround-
ing area and the events you can participate in. The shady terrace is
facing the Castle, once one of the strongholds along the border line
between the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Monarchy, which is
now the district line separating Žminj and Svetvinčenat. Svetvinčenat
historical centre is an exemplar of an ideal Renaissance town: built from Tavern Kod Kaštela
a single point prospective and therefore introduced into the Museum of
Renaissance in Paris.

SPECIALTIES
Apart from fish and meat dishes, Kod kaštela
tavern also offers a range of typical Is-
trian dishes such as corn and chickpea
maneštra, homemade pasta with game
or hen stew, and seasonal dishes. We rec- 31
ommend you taste their mushroom platter
(porcini, chantarelles, trooping funnel mushrooms,
etc.) in the autumn, while fresh porcini mush-
rooms from Gorski kotar are available all year
long. And for dessert: have a piece of their ex-
cellent apple strudel, or pancakes which come
in three-piece servings!

PRICES - Main course prices range from 45.00

(homemade pasta with hen, mushrooms, or four cheeses) to 120.00
kuna (grilled or stewed shrimps).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner...................... Villi Bašić Credit Cards............. Visa, Maestro,
Address................... Svetvinčenat 53, MasterCard, American Express
Svetvinčenat Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 052/560-012 Parking.................... In front
Opening Hours: 10:00-23:00 every day (food orders until 22:00)
(15th October-01st May until 21:30)

Getting there:
Savičenta is located at the road from Žminj to Vodnjan and Pula. Hav-
ing entered the town, follow the road signs leading you to Kod kaštela
tavern. As soon as you see the Castle (you cannot miss it) you will know
the tavern is just across.
TAVERN
MARTIN PESCAD OR
(TRGET)
tavern in a real
A real fishing
fishing village
The tavern named after a local bird is located at a small, secluded
village of Trget in the Raša river estuary. The terrace is at the coast,
and the shellfish and lobsters caught nearby are kept in the sea in
front of it. The personnel are also fishermen so the fish is always fresh,
and what you see at the platter really is what you will get on your
plate. The inside bar was made from an old boat, and numerous old
marine things and gadgets add to the overall maritime atmosphere of
the tavern. You will only find Trget if you are specifically looking for it.
Enjoy the great food, the relaxing atmosphere, and the sound of waves
wrinkling the brackish water of Raša estuary...

SPECIALTIES
Fish and seafood! Their seafood risotto, made with seafood caught in
or near the channel, is well known among the connoisseurs. If you are
in the mood for excellent local sea cuisine, this is the place to be! They
Tavern Martin Pescador also have a kids menu.
32
PRICES
Taking only individual portion meals as guidance, main course prices
range from 45.00 (cuttlefish risotto) to 85.00 kuna (grilled or stewed
seashells).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner........................Patrik Vlačić Credit Cards...............All
Address......................Trget 11a, Raša Web Page...................None
Phone.........................052/544-976 Parking.......................In front
Opening Hours 12:00-23:00 every day
(01st September – 30th April: closed on MONDAYS)

Getting there:
The easiest way to find Trget is to take the
road from Barban to Labin. Take a turn at
Most Raša following the sign for Luka Raša.
Continue along the river Raša, towards the
sea. Pass by a marine border crossing (do
not worry, you do not need a passport),
three large cranes, across a little bridge by
a green sea beacon, and here you are at
Trget! Another 400 meters down the road
you will see Martin Pescador tavern right in
front of you.
TAVERN
ASt T AR EicyAan(BR TONIGLA)
ecdotes on the side
Greafood with ju
Tavern Astarea
A family tavern famous for its fish- and seafood-based dishes, lo-
cated at Brtonigla, right next to the road from Novigrad to Buje. All
food is prepared with their homemade olive oil, produced only for the
needs of the restaurant and family members. In the winter the food is
prepared on a spacious open fireplace in the main hall. The owner’s
son plays the saxophone, so at the bar there is an old saxophone
turned into a beer tap. In warm weather you can enjoy the food while
sitting at a soft lawn, while in the winter you can choose between
sitting near the warm fireplace, or at the bright glazed terrace.

SPECIALTIES
There are not many places where you can get dishes such as codfish fillet in oil, or spider-
crab salad. Black risotto at Astarea is excellent, also due to the homemade olive oil used in
its preparation. If you are a fan of shellfish, do not miss out on the famous grilled Novigrad
kapešante. Kapešante (scallops) from Novigrad area are a well-known delicacy due to their
brackish water habitat.
33
PRICES
Main course prices range from 55.00 (pork cutlet with side dish) to 130.00 kuna (steak with
truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner Anton i Ivan Kernjus Credit Cards Maestro, Mastercard
Address Ronko 6, Brtonigla Web Page www.konoba-astarea-brtonigla.com
Phone 052/774-384 Parking In front and across the road
Opening Hours: 11:00-23:00 every day
Closed: 05th November – 05th December

Getting there:
The tavern is located by the road from Novigrad to Buje,
almost at the end of Brtonigla.
 TAVERN
MORGAdeN (BRTONIGLA)
d by vineyards
On a hill surroun
Relax and enjoy at one of the most beautiful terraces in Istrian
countryside! Spend a summer afternoon at a shady hilltop enjoying
the light breeze and the sound of crickets, or a cold winter day in a
charming interior where you can enjoy delicious Istrian cuisine and
a rich wine list all year long. The tavern is far enough from the usual
tourist routes to provide you with a true countryside atmosphere,
and yet close enough to be easily reached by car or by bike. A neat
Tavern Morgan macadam road will lead you to a tree with a swing, and a tavern
at the hilltop. A nicely groomed little park will direct you towards
an airy terrace with a view of the surrounding hills and vineyards.
Children will be cheered up by a couple of cute, well-mannered
dogs, and a number of sheep and a donkey grazing in a fenced area
about 50 metres from the tavern.

SPECIALTIES
Like many other countryside taverns, Morgan does not serve fish
34 dishes, but rather local meat dishes, especially game. Try the roast-
ed rooster, or boškarin (Istrian ox) brasato: the meat is baked in a
pot, which takes about 4-5 hours. Many of the groceries you will
get here were grown by the Morgan family themselves, such as
vegetables, chicken, and lamb.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 55.00 (roasted rooster) to 140.00
kuna (steak with truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner........................ Darinka i Ana Morgan Credit Cards............... All
Address..................... Bracanija 1, Brtonigla Web Page:................. www.konoba-morgan.eu
Phone........................ 052/774-520 Parking...................... In front
Opening Hours: all year long 12:00-22:00, closed on TUESDAYS

Getting there:
Take the road from Novigrad to Buje. About a kilometre after Br-
tonigla, which is about 3.5 km before Buje, turn right (towards east)
to a smaller road, and then a macadam road which will lead you
directly to Morgan tavern.
 Y
WINERY AND OIL REFINER
CUJ (SV. MARIJA NA KRASU)
Amid solid rocks
The owner’s grandfather’s prop-phrase Cuj da ti recem… (Eng.
Let me tell you…), spoken in local dialect, earned him the nickname
Cuj, which in his honour became the name of this winery and oil
refinery. The owner and former caterer Danijel Kraljević decided to
dedicate himself to oenology, and found the perfect way to combine
the two. At Cuj you will find an old-style tasting room with an open
fireplace, and answers to all your questions about Istrian wines
and olive oil: which soil, which glass, how, why, when, etc. You will
see the samples and hear the story of all three types of Istrian soil,
which have found its place in Cuj products’ logo. After that, you
will be lead downstairs into a cellar hewn into solid rock. The bare
rocks of the cellar give it a cave-like appearance and maintain the
ideal temperature for wine and oil preservation. During olive picking
season in October and November it is also possible to visit and see
the entire procedure of olive oil production.
Winery Cuj
35
PRODUCTS
DEGUSTATIONS AND GUIDED TOURS: 35.00–100.00 kuna per person, depending on your
wishes. In addition to wine tasting, you can sample the homemade products such as
smoked ham (prosciutto), baked olives, various cheeses, salted sardines, etc.
Malvasia, aged Malvasia, Teran, Chardonnay, semi-sweet Muscat, Rosé: 45.00–80.00 kuna
per bottle. Call or e-mail to announce your arrival in advance.

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner............................Danijel Kraljević Phone............................098/219-277 Danijel Kraljević
Address.........................Farnažine 5, 091/2121-920 Massimo
Sveta Marija na Krasu, Umag Web Page......................www.cuj.hr (under construction)
Credit Cards...................None Parking..........................In front
Opening Hours: 08:00-15:00 every day; After 15:00 with notification in advance.
October/November 00:00-24:00

Getting there:
In Petrovija, a village at the
road from Buje to Umag, turn
right (northwards) towards
Vilanija. Pass through Vilanija,
and after about 1.3 km (3.5 km
after Petrovija) you will see Cuj
winery on your right.
TAVE RN B UŠl C ˇ INA
ted and traditiona in a
Sophistica
perfect combination
When Buščina tavern first opened its door in 1992, the road passing
by was still a macadam road (moreover, the war was not exactly favour-
able to the development of tourism either). For 20 years this tavern has
been building its reputation and good name, based exclusively on the
winning combination of homemade food and high quality service. For
five years in a row this tastefully decorated tavern exuding warm family
atmosphere has been listed among the Top Five Taverns in Istria. In May
of 2012 the tavern threw a huge and cheerful party to celebrate its 20th
anniversary, as a treat for everyone and anyone who wished to join in.

SPECIALTIES
The tavern offers typical Istrian dishes, made of homemade and sea-
sonal ingredients. Every spring it also participates at the Days of Istrian
Asparagus, which means that in addition to the regular offer there are
also a few asparagus-based menus. Some of the more interesting de-
tails from these menus are for example asparagus tea, or asparagus
36 ice-cream with olive oil. Try homemade pasta with boškarin stew (Istrian
ox) and homemade bread on the side, all prepared in an open fireplace
which is lit throughout the year. For true gourmands, we recommend
the boškarin carpaccio and truffle cheese, or some of the more unusual
dishes such as homemade pasta with donkey stew, or deer steak.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 40.00 (pasta with stew or sausages)
to 180.00 kuna (beefsteak with white truffles). You can have a bowl
Tavern Buščina of boškarin soup or Istrian maneštra (thick vegetable soup) already for
20.00 kuna.

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner..................... Fabiana Mijanović Credit Cards............ All
Address................... Buščina 18, Umag Web Page................ www.konoba-buscina.hr
Phone...................... 052/732-088 Parking.................... In front
Opening Hours 12:00-24:00 every day, all year round;
Closed on TUESDAYS (in July and August open on Tuesdays, too)
Closed throughout January.

Getting there:
About 4 km from border crossings of Plovanija-Sečovlje and Kaštel-
Dragonja. The easiest way to arrive is from the road Buje – Umag: in
Petrovija turn right, towards Vilanija. After about 4.5 km you will see
Buščina tavern.
TAVER N NA KAP ELttoI
the prosciu ,
ce the guests see
On
vio Šegon, Owner)
they cannot resist it! (Ne
Located across the chapel it was named after, this lively and busy tav-
ern never closes its doors. By agreement with the District of Tinjan, the
tavern’s food offer is based exclusively on homemade local products from
the district of Tinjan. Na kapeli thus became a great example of promotion
of local products such as local prosciutto (smoked ham), various kinds of
cheese, rakija (biska – mistletoe rakija, or medica – honey rakija), etc.
With advanced notification you can participate at a prosciutto production
presentation projection in one of five languages (Croatian, English, Italian,
German, and Russian). Due to exclusive local products use, this tavern
has appeared on several occasions on TV shows such as Fruits of the
Earth, etc. In the winter the food is prepared at an open fireplace indoors,
and in the summer outdoors. On Thursdays and Sundays 20:00-23:00,
from 15th June on and throughout the summer, you can participate in
folklore dances at the tavern’s terrace.

SPECIALTIES 37
The tavern offers excellent food made under a baking lid, called peka, served with homemade
bread and pasta made at the tavern. Since the District of Tinjan is officially known as the District of
Istrian Prosciutto, do not miss out on sampling the products of some of the four prosciutto produc-
ers from Tinjan: Dujmović, Antolović, Radetić, Milohanić. If you are unable to resist it, try all four and
choose your favourite! Depending on the time of the year, try the seasonal dishes prepared with
mushrooms (porcini and trooping funnel mushrooms), asparagus, or sausages. Every day from
10:00 to 14:00 you can have a genuine worker’s lunch menu.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 45.00 (grilled chicken) to 135.00 kuna (beefsteak with truffles
and noodles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner............................Nevio Šegon Credit Cards...................All, except Diners
Address.........................Milinki 146, Tinjan Web Page: www.epazin.info/konoba-na-kapeli/
Phone............................052/626-318, 091/219-8903 Parking..........................In front
Opening Hours: 07:00-24:00 every day, all year round (The kitchen is open until 23:00)

Getting there:
The tavern is located at the main road leading from Pazin to Poreč, 13
km from Pazin.
TAVERN
VELA VR ATA (BE RAM)
late and enjoy the
Satisfy your pa
wonderful view
The tavern is located in a house which was once a part of the town
gate. Therefore the tavern, which stands at the entrance to a charm-
ing medieval little town of Beram, got the name Vela vrata (Eng. The
Grand Gate). You can choose between a comfortable interior and a
roofed-over terrace with a view of the surrounding fields and the
thick green forests of the Istrian countryside. The relaxing ambiance
fills you up with pleasure and makes you lose track of time. After
Tavern Vela vrata dinner you can take a walk through the town or visit the famous little
church of Sveta Marija na Škriljinah (St. Mary of the Rocks), famous
for Vincent of Kastav’s fresco the Dance of Death. If you wish to visit
the church you should call Tinjan Parish Office (+385-52-626-016)
or the key keeper, Mrs Sonja Šestan, at the address Beram 38 (+385-
52-622-903), at least half an hour in advance. You can also ask the
personnel of the tavern for help with the key.

SPECIALTIES
38 The offer consists of typical Istrian countryside dishes, made exclu-
sively with local seasonal groceries, such as fresh truffles, mush-
rooms, asparaguses, wild game, and homemade pasta. Excellent
sausages are available when it is their season, i.e. from St. Martin’s
Day (11th November) until the beginning of March. Vegetables are
from the family’s own garden. You can also taste homemade Mal-
vasia from Beram.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 25.00 (mushroom or asparagus ome-
lette) to 110.00 kuna (beefsteak in green pepper, or with mushrooms).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner..................... Sandro Jurčić Credit Cards............ All, except AmEx
Address................... Beram 41, Pazin Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 091/781-4995 Parking.................... In front
Opening Hours 11:00-24:00; kitchen is open until 22:00
Closed on Mondays (except from 07th July to 20th August)
Closed for two weeks in January – call and check.

Getting there:
Take the road from Pazin to Poreč, and turn towards Beram.Follow
the winding road uphill, all the way to the town centre. The tavern
is located at the very entrance to the historical centre, on your left.
TAVERN
VELI JOŽE (RO VINJ)
corner
Excellent food at a rock
Just like the story of Veli Jože, this tavern will not leave you cold. At
the entrance you will be greeted by an old diver leaned against the bar
(that is, an old diving-suit), introducing you into an interior filled with
antiques and curious items. One of the walls is covered in old musical
instruments, and the piano in the corner is still in function – just say
you would like to play something, and everybody will be happy to hear
some live music. The tavern is especially recommended to those who
pay attention to music when they choose a place to eat. If you are in
a mood to eat outdoors, there is also a terrace located in a cheerful
street just outside the tavern, where you will feel like you are merging
with the dynamics of this charming and colourful little town.

SPECIALTIES
As the owner puts it, Why complicate things? Meat, seafood, and
fish dishes (except tuna) are prepared using quality ingredients and
cooked in simple, well-tried ways. The owner takes fish and seafood from the local fishermen. 39
Various kinds of Adriatic fish are prepared also al cartoccio (baked in paper). There is also
grilled food, but no pizza.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 50.00 (seafood risotto) to 160.00 kuna (beefsteak with truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner............................Ivan Šverko
Address.........................Sv. Križ 1, Rovinj
Phone............................052/816-337
098/366-785
Opening Hours: 11:00-01:00 every day
(Closed 15th January – 15th March)
Credit Cards...................All
Web Page......................None
Parking..........................None (leave your car at the
parking lot outside Rovinj
historical centre)

Getting there:
The tavern is located in Rovinj’s historical centre, in a street parallel Tavern Veli Jože
with the waterfront. Come to the fountain in the centre of the square
next to the main, biggest pier in the port. A street parallel with the
waterfront will take you by the Adriatic hotel and straight towards
the historical centre. After about 100 metres you will came to Sv. Križ
street, and Veli Jože tavern at No. 1.
TAVERN
CROCEdi(RO
SANTA eth VINJ)
ing a little fferent.
And now… Som
This tavern is actually a gourmet restaurant located in Rovinj’s his-
torical centre, perfect for relaxation. The interior is airy and light, and
the terrace is calm and relaxing. The tables at the terrace are located
at a wider part of Sv. Križ Street, but quite removed from the people
passing by.

SPECIALTIES
Tavern Santa Croce The restaurant combines traditional groceries in somewhat unusual
ways: not radically experimental, but simply a little different. For exam-
ple, try the gilthead bream fillet with orange, sea bass fillet with black
olives, smoked seafood risotto, or gnocchi in vodka and gorgonzola
cream sauce.

40

PRICES
Main course prices range from 60.00 (Istrian pasta with rocket and
pine nuts, with asparagus and prosciutto, etc.) to 150.00 kuna (angler
fillet in black truffle sauce).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner..................... Dean Cerin Credit Cards............ All except Diners i Am Ex
Address................... Sv. Križ 11, Rovinj Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 052/842-240 Parking.................... None (leave your car
091/27 27 226 at the parking lot outside Rovinj’s historical
centre)
Opening Hours 01st April – 30th September: every day, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-24:00
Closed 01st October – 31st March)

Getting there:
The tavern is located in Rovinj’s historical
centre, in a street parallel with the water-
front. Come to the fountain in the centre of
the square next to the main, biggest pier in
the port. A street parallel with the waterfront
will take you by the Adriatic hotel and straight
towards the historical centre. After about 100
metres you will came to Sv. Križ street, and
Santa Croce tavern at No. 11 (a little square).
TRATTORIA
VODN JANKA (PULA)
d jazz
Tripe an
Trattoria Vodnjanka
The place to be for a great meal! Most of the clientele of this homey
trattoria are local people, who like coming here for lunch. It is general
knowledge: if you wish to eat good, homemade, and fresh food – just
follow the locals! The young owner works at the tavern and plays the
music of his choice; so, if you like rock, jazz, and blues, you will not be
disappointed. The combination of good music and homey atmosphere
makes this place unique, as well as very cosy.
Oh, right: the trattoria got its name due to certain circumstances. It is
not in Vodnjan.

SPECIALTIES
Apart from worker’s lunch menus you can
choose from a number of typical Istrian
dishes. Our recommendation is homemade
pasta with boškarin stew, or Istrian maneštra
(thick vegetable soup) with sausages. Tripe fans will also be satis-
41
fied. All of the above can be nicely completed with a glass of good
homemade wine.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 34.00 (battered meatballs) to 80.00 kuna (Adriatic squids, or
mixed fish).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner...................... Moris Civitico Credit Cards............. None
Address................... D. Vitezića 4, Pula Web Page................ None
Phone...................... 052/210-655 Parking.................... None
(public parking in the street in front)
Opening Hours: MONDAY-FRIDAY 10:00-17:00
SATURDAY 11:00-16:00
SUNDAY Closed
Closed throughout September.

Getting there:
Depending on where you entered Pula, find Marulić
Street, one of the longest streets stretching from
north to south. Vitezić Street stems from Marulić
Street at a right angle. When you find it, turn west
and enter the street. Pass by s modern-style St. Jo-
seph’s church, go straight for another 100 metres,
and you will see trattoria Vodnjanka on your left.
TAVERN
KAŽETthA
e main road
Bliss alongside
Kažeta tavern is located right next to the road, but as soon as you
enter it everything changes and it seems as if you have entered a dif-
ferent world: more peaceful, intimate, remote. The owners personally
restored the old, ruinous family house back to life, and most details
there are their own handiwork. The tavern has a spacious roofed-over
terrace with solid-wood tables, while in the wintertime the fire from
the open fireplace sheds light all over the interior room. There is also
Tavern Kažeta a separate room with a large table perfect for a bigger group, coved
by a ceiling with stars painted on it. The entire tavern is full of lovely
old things and lovely details.

SPECIALTIES
Local Istrian cuisine is avail-
able all year long, such as
young corn maneštra (thick
vegetable soup), homemade
42 Istrian pasta pljukanci with
asparagus and prosciutto, or
the Kažeta-style beefsteak
(stuffed with prosciutto and
cheese). Due to a constant
supply of fresh snails from a
farm in Matulji, you can also try several snail dishes.

PRICES
Main course dishes range from 30.00 (omelette with snails and
spring onions) to 100.00 kuna (Kažeta-style beefsteak with a side
dish, or beefsteak with truffles and a side dish).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner..................... Julijana Brljafa
Credit Cards............ All
Address................... Kadumi 4, Poreč Web Page................ www.istrabiz.hr/detalji.
Phone...................... 052/460-615 php?KB=132405133
Parking.................... In front
Opening Hours 01st May – 30th September: MON-SAT 08:00-23:00 - SUN 12:30-23:00
01th October – 30th April: MON 08:00-15:00 - TUE-SAT 08:00-23:00
SUN 12:30-23:00

Getting there:
The tavern is located right by the main road from Pazin to Poreč,
about 4.5 km before Poreč.
TAVERN
FAKIN (MOTOVUN)
and great view from Mot
ovun
Great food is there to say.
town walls... What more
The location alone invites you to come and sit down: the tavern is
situated on Motovun town walls, right next to the town loggia be-
tween the two town gates. The tavern has no connection with its fa-
mous namesake, a coffee bar which used to stand at the foot of the
town, well-known to all who used to visit the Motovun Film Festival
during its first decade. However, apart from the name, what the two
also have in common are the friendly staff, and a cosy ambience. The
view of the river Mirna, Oprtalj, Grožnjan, and the surrounding hills Tavern Fakin
can be enjoyed either from the terrace or from the nicely decorated
interior. Just as it is written on the outside pricelist: Look for the tavern
with red tablecloths!

SPECIALTIES
In addition to the unavoidable Istrian maneštra, you can
also try homemade sausages in teran wine, or beef-
steak in red wine sauce. The tavern offers a number 43
of classical dishes with truffles, but also some unusual
ones such as truffle soup and black truffle pancakes.
For dessert, try the pears in teran wine. There is also
a kids menu.

PRICES
Main course prices range from 45.00 (homemade sausages, or 50.00 kuna for sausages
in teran wine) to 120.00 kuna (beefsteak in asparagus or red wine sauce). Naturally, truffle
dishes cost more: from 40.00 (black truffle pancakes) to 220.00 kuna (beefsteak with white
truffles).

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner............................Marko Fakin Credit Cards.................None
Address.........................Trg Josefa Ressela 4, Motovun Web Page....................None
Phone............................052/681-598 Parking........................None (the town is for pedestrians only)
092/14 20 092, 092/23 94 400
Opening Hours: 12:00-23:00 every day
(open from 01st April to 15th November)

Getting there:
Leave the car at the big parking lot at the foot of the hill or the smaller one up the hill, next to
the graveyard. Parking is charged at all parking lots. Walk along a cobbled street uphill; when
you reach the first town gate go on straight towards the second gate. The last tavern before
the second town gate is Fakin tavern (with red tablecloths).
restaurant
PUN (MmOTbeOV
POD NAth UN)
tween
no museu
A living gastro-e
the sky and the ground
This is in fact an actual restaurant, but it had to be named snack-bar
as well due to its open-type kitchen, where the guests can see the
process of food preparation and even ask for culinary advice. The res-
taurant owes its name to napa (Eng. hood; Pod napun means Under
the fireplace hood), originally a little roof over the fireplace, tradition-
ally a place where families would gather round. In order to enter the
restaurant you must first walk through the Ethno-shop Ča, offering
local products and a chance to see lots of old local things, including
a bed with old linens. The restaurant has a magnificent two-floor terrace which seems to be
hanging from the town walls, giving you a between-the-sky-and-the-ground kind of feeling.
The terrace is 200 metres above sea level; after the rain, when the air is at its clearest, visibility
can be up to 50 kilometres.

SPECIALTIES
Apart from numerous truffle dishes, there is also a wide array of canapés (with truffles, olives,
anchovy, etc.) for those in a mood for a little bit of everything, and olive oils degustations. There
44 is also a vegetarian menu. The owner recommends the wild herbs omelette, and ladvenica in
teran wine sauce (ask the waiter what kind of meat that is).

PRICES
Truffle dishes prices range from 55.00 (homemade pasta with truffles) to 210.00 kuna (beef-
steak with white truffles). Olive oil degustations range from 20.00 to 35.00 kuna, and a portion
of canapés ranges from 17.00 to 22.00 kuna. The aforementioned wild herbs omelette costs
42.00, and the ladvenica 90.00 kuna.

BASIC INFORMATION
Owner..................... Livio Lanča Credit Cards............ All
Address................... Gradiziol 33, Motovun Web Page................ www.antique-motovun.com.hr
Phone...................... 052/681-767 Parking None (the town is for pedestrians only)
Opening Hours 20.03.-01.05.TUE-SUN 12:00-22:00, Closed on MON
20.12.-06.01.UTO-NED 12:00-22:00, Closed on MON
01.05.-15.11. every day 12:00-22:00
(the ethno shop is open 10:00-22:00, so you can have a drink at the terrace of the
restaurant before noon, too)

Getting there?
Leave the car at the big parking lot at the foot of the hill or the smaller one up the hill, next to
the graveyard. Parking is charged at all parking lots. Walk along a cobbled street uphill; after
about a hundred metres or so you will see the Ethno-shop Ča on your left. Pass through the
shop and you will be at the restaurant/snack-bar Pod napun
Tavern Buščina CONTENTS:
What is the RONA PLUS GUIDE? 2
CAPE KAMENJAK 04
THE PARENZANA 06
ISTRIAN CAVES 08
ŠKARLINE CANYON 10
TRIP No. 01 14
TRIP No. 02 16
TRIP No. 03 18
TRIP No. 04 20
TRIP No. 05 22
ISTRA INSPIRIT 24
TONČIĆ AGROTOURISM 27
DANIJELI TAVERN 28 45

LOGGIA TAVERN 29
MARINO TAVERN 30
KOD KAŠTELA TAVERN 31
MARTIN PESCADOR TAVERN 32
ASTAREA TAVERN 33
MORGAN TAVERN 34
CUJ WINERY AND OIL REFINERY 35
BUŠČINA TAVERN 36
NA KAPELI TAVERN 37
VELA VRATA TAVERN 38
VELI JOŽE TAVERN 39
SANTA CROCE TAVERN 40
TRATTORIA VODNJANKA 41
KAŽETA TAVERN 42
FAKIN TAVERN 43
Tavern Morgan RESTAURANT POD NAPUN 44
 pleasure
Your holiday o n sibility!
is our re sp 0-4643
RVATION S +385-99-23
na.com
INFO & RESEna.hr www.apartments-ro
bo oking@ro

Publisher: RONA TRADE d.o.o., Publisher for: Roman Cvek - Texts: Jelena Bičanić-Ščedrov
Photo: www.fotolia.com | www.dreamstime.com | TZZI | Istra Inspirit | Morten Smalby | www.colorsofistria.com | www.baredine.com | arhiv Rona trade d.o.o.
Prepress: Vladimir Šijan - Print: AKD, Zagreb