COTTON

Cotton

43
 COTTON
• Cotton is the most widely used fiber.
• Almost one-half of total world fiber demand
is for cotton.
• Cotton is a seed fiber, as it is attached to the
seed of the cotton plant.
• It has been used for over 7,000 years.
• Cotton is a cellulosic fiber.
• All cellulosic fibers contain carbon(C),
hydrogen(H) and oxygen(O).
 COTTON

• The basic monomer of cellulose is glucose.

• Two glucose repeating unit is called
cellobiose.
• The chemical reactivity of cellulose is related
to the hydroxyl groups(OH) of the glucose
unit.
• The hydroxyl group reacts readily with
moisture, dyes and many finishes.
 COTTON
• Cotton grows in any place where the growing
season is long and the climate is temperate to
hot with adequate rainfall or irrigation.
• Cellulose will not form if the temperature is
below 70°F.
 COTTON
• The major producers of cotton in the world
are:
(1) China(26.7%)
(2) USA(18.2%)
(3) India(13.3%)
(4) Pakistan(8.9%)
(5) Turkey(4.6%)
(6) Brazil(4.6%)
 CLASSIFICATION
1. Short-staple cotton:
• Short, coarse fibres that are 3/8 to 3/4 inches
in length.
• Primarily produced in India and eastern Asia.
2. Intermediate-staple cotton:
• Intermediate length and coarseness.
• 7/8 to 1.25 inches in length.
• Varieties include Upland cotton and
American upland.
 CLASSIFICATION
3. Long-staple cotton:
• Highest quality.
• 1.31 to 1.5 inches in length
• Used to make softer, stronger, smoother and
more luxurious fabrics.
• Varieties include American Pima, Egyptian,
American Egyptian and Sea Island.
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE
MORPHOLOGY

• The cotton fiber is made up of cuticle,

primary wall, secondary wall and lumen.
• The cuticle is a wax like film covering the
primary wall or outer wall.
• Primary and secondary walls are made up of
layers of cellulose.
• The cellulose layers are composed of
fibrils(bundles of cellulose chains), arranged
in a spiral that sometimes reverses direction.
 MORPHOLOGY
• These reverse spirals contribute to the
development of convolutions that affect the
fiber's elongation and elastic recovery.
• The lumen is the central canal, through which
nourishment travels during fiber
development.
• When the fiber matures, dried nutrients in
the lumen may result in dark areas that are
visible under a microscope.
 Cotton

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 MORPHOLOGY
• Convolutions are ribbon like twists that
characterize cotton.
• When the fibers mature and force the boll
open, they dry out and the central canal
collapses.
• Reverse spirals in the secondary wall cause
the fibers to twist.
• The twist forms a natural texture that enables
the fibers to cling to one another.
 MORPHOLOGY
• Thus, despite its short length, yarn spinning is
easy with cotton.
• However, the convolutions may trap soil,
requiring vigorous cleaning to remove it.
• Long-staple cotton has about 300
convolutions per inch.
• Short-staple cotton has less than 200 per
inch.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
• The cotton fiber is characterized by
convolutions or natural twists.
• Under a microscope, cotton resembles
twisted ribbon.
• The cross sectional shape of cotton is like a
bean.
• It is usually creamy white or yellowish in color.
• The length ranges from 0.5 to 2.5 inches.
 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
• Luster of cotton relatively low.
• Cotton is a medium-strength fiber, with a dry
breaking tenacity of 3.5 to 4.0 grams/denier.
• Tenacity of cotton increases by 10 to 20%
when it is wet.
• The absorbency of cotton is good as it has a
moisture regain of 8 to 10%.
 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
• Low elongation of 6 to 10% with poor
recovery.
• This is the reason for easy creasing of cotton
fabric.
• Abrasion resistance is good.
• No static buildup.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
• Good affinity for dyestuff.
• Concentrated mineral acids (like sulphuric
acid) and chlorine bleach, if not used properly,
destroy cotton.
• Cotton has strong affinity towards strong
alkalis like sodium hydroxide.
• Sodium hydroxide is used in the process of
mercerization for improving the absorbency,
strength, luster, etc. of cotton.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

• Cotton is damaged by exposure to dry heat(300°F or

higher).
• It scorches or burns at extremely high ironing
temperatures.
• Cotton is flammable and burns when exposed to an
open flame, with an odor like burning paper,
producing grey ash.
• Good conductor of electricity.
• Long exposure to sunlight will damage cotton.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
• Mildew will attack cotton that is stored in
damp, dark, warm places.
• It will stain, rot and degrade it.
• Silverfish will eat cotton , especially if it is
heavily starched.
• However, moths and carpet beetles will not
attack cotton.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
• Withstands the strain of frequent laundering.
• Safe ironing temperature limit is
400°F(206.1°C).
• Tends to shrink appreciably when washed,
unless treated.
• Weakened by resins during finishing.
 USES
• Extensively used in apparel and home
furnishings because of its comfort, dyeability
and washability.
• Can be blended with synthetic fibers,
especially polyester, for producing wrinkle
free appearance.
• Apparel uses include shirts, blouses, under
wears, night wears, outer wears, trousers
and leisure wears.
 USES
• Home furnishings include hand and bath
towels, bed sheets, pillowcases, curtains,
upholstery fabrics, wall coverings, blankets,
table and kitchen cloths, decorative fabrics,.
• Industrial uses include medical, surgical and
sanitary supplies, abrasives, book bindings,
hand bags, shoes, slippers, sewing threads,
work wears and wiping cloths.
 TERMS
• Organic cotton is produced on land on which
organic farming has been practiced for at
least three years.
• Transition cotton is produced on land on
which organic farming has been in practice for
less than three years.
• Green cotton is produced by washing with
mild natural soap and not treated with
bleaches or harsh chemicals and dyed with
natural dyes.
 TERMS
• Transgenic cotton is the one which has been
genetically engineered to repel insects.
• Fox fiber the naturally colored cotton fiber
grown organically by Natural Cotton Colors,
Inc.
Coir
 COIR
• It is obtained from the fibrous mass between
the outer shell and the husk of the coconut.
coconut
• Also sold as coco fibre.
• The long, curly fibres are removed by soaking
the husk in saline water.
• Coir is very stiff and naturally cinnamon-brown.
• Can be bleached and dyed.
• Good resistance to abrasion, water and
weather.
 COIR
• Major producer is Srilanka.
Srilanka
• Important fibre for indoor and outdoor mats,
rugs, floor tiles and brushes.
• These floor textiles are extremely durable and
blend with furnishings of many styles.
• Its stiff, wiry texture and coarse size produce
fabrics whose weave, pattern or design is
clearly visible.
KAPOK
 KAPOK
• It is obtained from the seed of Java kapok(silk
cotton) tree or the Indian kapok tree. tree
• It is light weight, soft, hollow and very buoyant
but it quickly breaks down.
• It is difficult to spin this fibre into yarn due to
lack of length and strength.
• Primarily used for filling pillows and
mattresses.
• Major producers are Java, South America and
India.