Design influences on current trend and styling

Factors Influencing Fashion- Accelerating and retarding factor influenced by

 Social Factors

 Cultural Factors

 Economical Factors

 Political Factors

 Technological Factors

 Sports

 Music

 Designers

 Fashion trends are influenced by several factors including cinema, celebrities, climate, creative
explorations, political, economical, social and technological. Examining these factors is called a
PEST analysis .

In the fashion designing process, every individual plays an influential role in creating fashion trends.
Right from the designer and stylist to the celebrities, every individual serves as the perfect muse in
influencing popular fashion.

In the words of famous German fashion designer Wolfgang Joop, “Fashion is about Suspense, Surprise &
Fantasy. It’s not about Rules”. And indeed, fashion is all about setting new trends with surprisingly
unique designs and styles.

Along with the impact of world events, fashion trends have been influenced by social (e.g., women’s
rights movement), subcultural influences (e.g., “Black Is Beautiful”), and economic conditions (e.g., the
Depression of the 1930s). Technological advances, such as the invention of the zipper and synthetic
fibers, and entertainment, such as movies and TV shows, have also influenced fashion change. In
addition, fashion leaders, including designers and celebrity icons, help propel fashion change and
consumers’ fashion adoption. World events and social, cultural, economic, and technological changes
influence one another and consequent styles. To illustrate the multiple influences on fashion, the
following section discusses some of the important fashion trends between 1900 and 2010 and the events
that likely influenced them. World events Major world events that have influenced fashion change include
World War I, World War II, and the September 11, 2001, attacks on the World Trade Center and the
Pentagon. World War I resulted in considerable changes in women’s roles and fashion. As increasing
numbers of men participated in the war, women’s presence in the labor force continued to increase. They
were allowed to enter many jobs for the first time in history and, ultimately, gained economic
independence. As a result, significant changes occurred in women’s wear, and designers focused on easy-
to wear clothing (e.g., a pull-over style blouse without fastenings worn with a skirt) that was both
fashionable and practical. A designer that exemplifies easy-to-wear clothing was Gabrielle Chanel.
Chanel had her first haute-couture collection in 1916, introducing simple but sensational two-piece jersey
outfits that were loved by many women. In addition, designers introduced military-inspired fashions, such
as tailored jackets and suits with a loose waist and patch pocket details. The color khaki was in fashion
because it was the color of military uniforms. During World War II, women again worked in factories,
replacing men who joined the military services, and wanted minimalist pieces that could create maximum
versatility. With the declaration of war, designers in Paris and London immediately introduced styles
emphasizing practicality, such as coats with hoods, suits with large slouch pockets, and bags large enough
to carry a gas mask and footwear. Because of the shortage of fabric, the quantity of fabric used for
garments and the number of pockets and buttons were restricted. Fabric manufacturing was controlled in
support of the war effort; the availability of fabrics such as wool, silk, nylon, and rubber was limited for
regular consumers . The September 11, 2001, terrorist attack in New York City and outside Washington,
D.C., is considered a major world event of the new millennium, and it has had an impact on fashion
trends. People expressed their feelings of patriotism, grief, and pride through fashion; items designed
using the American flag, such as t-shirts, pins, and other accessories, were widely available.

Fashion leaders, including fashion designers and celebrities, have influenced the creation and diffusion of
new styles. For instance, Gabrielle Chanel was probably the most influential designer of the twentieth
century; her innovative styles affected fashion change throughout decades. She was the first designer to
bring menswear items, such as trousers, into the fashionable woman’s wardrobe. She also introduced
costume jewelry to fashion in the 1920s. At that time, fake gems were used only to provide deceptive
copies of expensive originals. Chanel broke this convention by designing jewelry with paste stones and
fake pearls and wearing them herself during the day (at that time, wearing jewelry was considered
appropriate only in the evening)

Fashion forecasters can use this information to help determine growth or decline of a particular trend.
Fashion trends change daily, it can not stay unchanged

1.2. FACTORS INFLUENCING FASHION

Fashion expresses the prevailing interests, human motivation and aesthetics in society. It is a vibrant
subject incorporating the interplay of social, cultural, psychological, political, geographical, economic,
technological factors. In other words, the surrounding stimuli, whether directly or indirectly, result in
influencing fashion. By its very nature fashion is transient, subject to continuous change and revival. The
human mind tends to become bored with available goods and services and seeks stimulation through
novelty and change. This causes a demand for newer products. Human nature is the most important and
essential driver of changing fashion and trends; fashion reflects the human condition with its wants and
needs which designers attempt to anticipate in advance and create products accordingly.
The example of mobile phones would explain the point where simple acts of making and receiving calls
and texts are inadequate to hold consumer interest. Today mobiles have features like sleek forms and a
wide range of inbuilt functions. Manufacturers compete with each other, innovating forms and functions
by adding new 'apps' to entice customers by turning the mobile phone into a personal manager/
entertainer/ companion. It thus becomes 'fashionable' to claim that one possesses the latest updated
version of a particular mobile which may even mean replacement of a perfectly functioning piece of
equipment. The mobile phone has also been elevated from the status of a utilitarian object to a luxury
fashion product by using precious metals and encrusting with expensive stones and diamonds for an elite
customer segment.
Fashion is inspired by and responds to Zeitgeist meaning 'spirit of the times'. Every new stimulus or
development leads to a transformation in society, leading to new fashion cycles and new trends.
Some of the influences and thoughts prevailing in society at a particular point in time interact mutually
and thereby affect fashion are:
1.2.1 Dominating events

Significant occurrences like war or political events, celebratory, centenary and cultural events,
Fashion Week, Fashion Awards ceremony, national and international competitions and games like
Olympics, Commonwealth Games or IPL cricket affect the design of the garments and products.

Fig 1.3 Joy Mitra 2011. On the 150th birth anniversary of Rabindranath Tagore, the Nobel Laureate's
handwriting was used as a reference for the stylized print

1.2.2 Influence of celebrities

Film stars, sports persons, musicians and others with wealth and power are constantly in the public
domain through high visibility coverage in social and entertainment media like movies, TV series, reality
shows, interviews and photographs in print media. The dressing style of such celebrities has a significant
impact on the public demand for similar designs and brands endorsed by them.
Fig 1.4 Madhuri Dixit in a Varun Bahl creation
1.2.3 Economic factors

Fashion reflects the global or national state of the economy, whether buoyant or in recession. For example
during recession, issues like 'value for money' and durability affect the demand for classic items. There is
perceptible buoyant mood in society when the economy is thriving, which results in innovative and Fast
Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG). The global effect of devaluation of the dollar, inflation rates,
international trade agreements etc. affect manufacturing, marketing and buying patterns. The current
global economic recession has resulted in consumers buying practical clothes that provide 'value for
money' and are more durable.
In addition to the short-term influences, there is a range of other contemporary factors with long term
effect on fashion: economic conditions under pessimistic economic conditions, consumers tend to curb
their consumption, especially of luxury goods. For instance, starting in 1929, the collapse of the New
York stock market led to a worldwide, economic depression and mass unemployment that lasted until the
late 1930s or early 1940s. The event influenced not only the U.S. fashion industry but also the French
high-fashion industry, which had been dependent on exports to U.S. retailers. U.S. department stores
canceled their orders, and designers cut their prices and introduced inexpensive ready-to-wear lines. The
recession that began in 2008 has had a similar impact on U.S. consumers, who turned to inexpensive
(store) brands, discount retailers, and basic styles for their apparel needs.
The economy of a country is another factor influencing fashion. When there’s rise in the price of a fabric,
designers may make certain alterations to their designs rather than pricing it high. In most cases, designers
use less expensive fabrics considering the adverse weather conditions where the prices of certain fabrics
rise. For example, fabrics such as silk, satin and velvet sees a frequent price fluctuation.

1.2.4 Psychological factors

While at a fundamental level fashion encompasses a wider lifestyle including clothes and accessories, it
affects people at a deeper psychological level playing a crucial role of how we view ourselves and others.
i. Duality of fashion: It can simultaneously express a personal style and also the public image of an
individual; it can establish social norms of dress codes and also allow creation of personal identity; it can
create commercially viable products for the present and also project a vision for the future.
ii. Freedom within social norms: Fashion allows individuals to express individuality without having to
succumb to societal or peer pressure. These differences may be in terms of gender, culture and aesthetics
in clothing which are based on prevailing concepts of ideals of beauty.
iii. Endless search for novelty: Since the human mind seeks to counteract boredom through the new,
there are choices in every product category available to the consumer through fashion cycles.
1.2.5 Social factors

Fashion emerges as a response to societal influences during a particular period impacting self-identity and
group-identity. There are historical examples of fashion which typify a period.
Examples are frayed jeans, tie-and-dye shirts and T-shirts during the Hippie movement of the 1960s, the
broad-shouldered women's suits reflecting Power dressing of the 1980s, the Grunge look of the 1990s etc.
Some of the social factors are:
i. Dynamics of social groups
The domination of economically stronger social groups wields its influence on fashion trends in two ways
namely imitation and differentiation.
Imitation refers to the fact that consumers of the lower social strata aspire to look like the more affluent
groups which leads to manufacturing of cheaper or even faux (fake) goods.
Differentiation takes place in two ways:
Differentiation of the upper classes from the masses through a conscious focus on exclusivity of products
original brands, high priced luxury items etc. Differentiation among similar products through
presentation of a product to high light its differences and superiority over other products of similar type in
order to attract a particular segment of target market. The product is publicized through a strong
marketing approach to achieve the following:
Appeal to the target consumer
Differentiate the product from other products in the category
Create desirability in the consumers mind to encourage purchase

An example is that of a variety of bathing soaps where product differentiation is created by positioning
some as beauty products either for the masses or classes while others differentiate themselves as a product
catering to individual and family health.
ii. Global issues and concerns
The Bruntland Report in 1987 popularized the term 'sustainable development' elaborating on the need to
propagate the use of systems for development that would meet current needs without jeopardizing
requirements of future generations. The industrial practices and processes of producing, buying and
selling, wearing and disposal in the fashion and textiles sector impacts the environment.
The growing awareness and need for sustainable fashion is also indicative of a wider social consciousness
about responsibility in the fashion business. In India, initiatives are taken by the government, individual
designers and design institutes to work with artisans through fashioncraft linkages to build a socially
responsible sustainable design environment. Health issues and concerns like for HIV/ AIDS or awareness
drive about breast cancer symbolized by the pink loop bow are publicized through high-profile events or
fund-raising events.
iii. Ethical concerns and practices
The concerns addressed by the international fashion community regarding social and human issues are
gaining increased importance in society and by extension, in the fashion industry.
Ethical fashion is gaining momentum in order to balance economic considerations with the human aspect
of business. Issues pertaining to Fair Trade Practices in the fashion industry like fair wages to workers,
decent working conditions, child labour etc. Corporate Social
Responsibility (CSR) involving positive social contributions and reduced environmental impact need to
be under taken by all companies.

1.2.6 Cultural factors

Fashion and culture influence and fuel each other through interaction. This is achieved in the following
ways:
i. Reflection of both High culture and popular culture in fashion: High culture includes appreciation
of arts, literature, music and customs whether of one's own country or that of foreign land. For example
ethnic and national folk costume can provide inspiration for details like fabrics, style or trims in apparel
designs. Traditional embroidery of different states often has socio-cultural references through the motifs
and use of colour. Popular culture includes the influence of advertisements, television, movies,
magazines, internet, and mainstream music etc.

Fig 1.7.Pankaj and Nidhi 2012 collection based on Polish culture

Subcultural influences are typified by unique styles that many times diffuse to the mainstream. For
example, in the United States, the “Black Is Beautiful” movement began in the 1960s among African
Americans who were making strides in civil rights. The movement aimed to dispel the prevailing notion,
projected by the media, that black features were less attractive than white features. Thus, the movement
expressed a new sense of identity among African Americans and focused on the understanding of African
beauty and aesthetics. As a result of this movement, Afro hairstyles became a powerful symbol of black
pride and were widely adopted by both men and women within and outside the African American
community in the late 1960s. Unemployed young people and students in the United Kingdom started
punk fashion in the mid-1970s. In the 1970s, African Americans and Latinos in New York originated hip-
hop fashion. It became increasingly popular throughout the late 1980s and 2000s due to
commercialization by major fashion companies, such as Nike, Reebok, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo Ralph
Lauren, and Timberland. In addition, hip-hop fashion influenced high-fashion designers; Isaac Mizrahi
and Chanel showed hip-hop-inspired fashion

1.2.6 Cultural factors

ii. Expression of gender indicators in different cultures through clothing norms:
 In Western culture many traditional garment forms were specifically reserved for one gender e.g. trousers
for men and skirts for women. With the relaxation of the earlier rigid social attitudes since 20th century,
the roles of men and women have changed. Over a period of time, conventional barriers have been
breached wherein fashion for one gender has 'borrowed'
components from the other's wardrobe e.g. trouser suits for women.

Fig 1.8 Rajesh Pratap Singh 2012

1.2.7 Political events and personalities

Political events and political personalities affect prevailing fashion. Events like war are echoed across
society through T-shirt prints and slogans expressing solidarity and support for the nation. The unification
of East and West Germany has created a larger market for European brands like
H & M. Khadi spun by Mahatma Gandhi in pre-independent India was not just a fabric but a symbol of
the desire for independence.
Public personalities associated with politics may, by virtue of their charisma and achievements, evoke
people to emulate them through clothing. The jacket with a band collar called bandhgala jacket worn by
Pandit Jawarharlal Nehru was a popular alternative to the western menswear suit in the 1950s. Lady
Diana was a global icon whose style was appreciated for elegance and appropriateness for the occasion.
Not only did political events make a huge impact on fashion trends but also the political figure played a
critical role in forecasting the fashion trend. For example, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy was a
fashionable icon of the early 1960s who led formal dressing trend. By wearing a Chanel suit, a structural
Givenchy shift dress or a soft color Cassini coat with huge buttons, it created her elegant look and led a
delicate trend. [33]

Furthermore, political revolution also made much impact on the fashion trend. For example, during the
1960s the economy had become wealthier, divorce rate was increasing and government approved the birth
control pill. This revolution inspired younger generation to rebellion. In 1964, the leg-baring miniskirt
has become a major fashion trend of the 1960s. Given that fashion designers began to experiment with the
shapes of garment, loose sleeveless, micro-minis, flared skirts, and trumpet sleeves. In this case, mini-
skirt trend became an icon of the 1960s.

Moreover, political movement built an impressive relationship with fashion trend. For instance, during
Vietnam War, the youth of America made a movement that affected the whole country. In the 1960s, the
fashion trend was full of fluorescent colors, prints patterns, bell-bottom jeans, fringed vests, and skirt
became a protest outfit of the 1960s. This trend was called Hippie and it is still affecting current fashion
trend.
1.2.8 Historical inspiration

Often historical fashion and styles from museums, archives, design houses or in private collections are
researched by designers to identify characteristic style features like silhouettes, fabrics and colours. These
are used as sources of inspiration and 'revival' in the following ways:
Updation and re-interpretation of the key features e.g. an earlier silhouette can be recreated in a new
fabric or a different construction technique. These can become the basis of the next collection e.g. royal
costumes of princely India have often inspired wedding trousseau oriented couture fashion shows.
Research for designing of authentic costumes for movies e.g. Academy award winning designer Bhanu
Athaiya had undertaken an intensive process of authentic historical research before designing the
costumes for Sir Richard Attenborough's movie 'Gandhi'.

1.2.9 Geographical factors

History has examples of clothing that developed in consonance with the geography and weather of the
area. Brightly coloured Rajasthan clothes visually compensate for the arid desert landscape. Camouflage
prints used for military or para-military uniforms are designed to blend in with the surrounding terrain.
High desert temperatures also necessitate layered clothing to prevent dehydration. Inhabitants of lands
with cold temperatures inevitably need to wear multi-layered clothes made of thicker fabrics. People wear
fur for protection against cold weather though the use of fur in fashion receives strong opposition from
animal rights activists.

1.2.10 Spread of Information Technology

Prior to the Information Technology boom, the pace of fashion movement across nations was slower. The
internet has accelerated the rate of fashion change reducing the time from the fashion ramps to the stores.
Globalization has shrunk the world enabling fashion shows to be globally transmitted live and reducing
the life span of fashion trends from a year to a few months. With
Skype, geographical boundaries and time lines can be bridged with ease, facilitating international
business discussions and quicker decisions. This has also resulted in fashion business becoming 'glocal'
combining global thinking with local flavour, thus developing a wider perspective of the business.

1.2.11 Technological advancements in textiles

The advent of new technology in textiles is the result of intensive research combining design, clothing,
engineering and science by textile technologists. This has enabled the development of technologically
advanced 'smart' textiles or 'intelligent' textiles whose functions go beyond the issue of everyday clothing
into more varied applications. For example research has provided versatile fabric structures with
enhanced performance e.g. fabrics with medicinal properties, wearable technology, designs of spacesuits
for extra-terrestrial environment are some examples of technological advancements in textiles and
clothing.

Technology influences
Technology plays a large role in most aspects of today's society. Technological influences are growing
more apparent in the fashion industry. Advances and new developments are shaping and creating current
and future trends.

Developments such as wearable technology have become an important trend in fashion and will continue
with advances such as clothing constructed with solar panels that charge devices and smart fabrics that
enhance wearer comfort by changing color or texture based on environmental changes. [35]

The fashion industry is seeing how 3D printing technology has influenced designers such as Iris Van
Herpen and Kimberly Ovitz . These designers have been heavily experimenting and developing 3D
printed couture pieces. As the technology grows, the 3D printers will become more accessible to
designers and eventually consumers, which could potentially shape the fashion industry entirely.

Internet technology such as online retailers and social media platforms have given way for trends to be
identified marketed and sold immediately. [36] Styles and trends are easily conveyed online to attract the
trendsetters. Posts on Instagram or Facebook can easily increase awareness about new trends in fashion,
which subsequently may create high demand for specific items or brands, [37] new "buy now button"
technology can link these styles with direct sales.

Machine vision technology has been developed to track how fashions spread through society. The
industry can now see the direct correlation on how fashion shows influence street-chic outfits. The effects
can now be quantified and provide valuable feedback to fashion houses, designers and consumers
regarding trends. [38]

Military technology has played an important role in the fashion industry. The camouflage pattern in
clothing was developed to help military personnel be less visible to enemy forces. A trend emerged in the
1960s and camouflage fabric was introduced to street wear. The camouflage fabric trend disappeared and
resurfaced several times since then. Camouflage started to appear in high fashion by the 1990s. [39]
Designers such as Valentino, Dior and Dolce & Gabbana combined camouflage into their runway and
ready-to-wear collections.

Technological innovations Technological inventions, such as textile innovations and production

technology, have had a great influence on fashion change. The invention of rayon, which mimics the
touch and appearance of natural silk, was one of the most important textile breakthroughs in the 1920s. At
first, its use was limited to linings and lingerie, but, later, rayon was employed in large quantities in the
production of stockings. Although rayon stockings had an advantage in terms of price, they were less
desirable than silk because they ran easily and had an unattractive shine. These drawbacks were reduced
by 1926, and rayon began to be used for both daywear and eveningwear (Mendes & de la Haye, 1999). In
1938, DuPont developed nylon. Initially, the major contribution of this fiber was in the field of hosiery
because it looked like silk but was more durable. Nylon stockings were introduced to the United States in
1940 and were widely available in the market by the 1950s; during World War II, nylon was used as a
parachute material (Mendes & de la Haye, 1999). In the 1990s, technological developments, including
computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM), were major facilitators of mass
production (Mendes & de la Haye, 1999). The Quick Response (QR) system based on these technologies
has allowed fast-fashion companies such as H&M, Zara, and Forever 21 to expand their businesses
internationally, providing consumers with the latest fashions at low prices.

Movies & Music

The entertainment world is a major influencer of fashion. From Hollywood to the entertainment industries
of any nation, movie stars and musicians woo the audience with their fashionable clothing and style.
The styles worn by actors and actresses have an impact on fashion trends. In the 1950s, young movie
stars, such as James Dean and Marlon Brando, led fashion trends. Jeans became a symbol of youth when
James Dean wore them in the movie Rebel without a Cause (1955), and Marlon Brando popularized the
black leather jacket worn in the movie The Wild One (1953). In the 1970s, Ralph Lauren started the
menswear company Polo Fashion, inspired by classic, traditional British styling. In 1971, he introduced
his first women’s collection, showing men’s shirts modified for women. The movies The Great Gatsby
(1974) and Annie Hall (1977) played important roles in popularizing his apparel. Later, in 1983, the film
Flash dance propelled a new trend in fashion inspired by physical fitness. Aerobic dancewear and torn
sweats like those worn by the actress Jennifer Beals in the film had a strong influence on fashion. As a
result, warm-up suits and athletic shoes, once reserved for sport activities, were worn as street wear.
Athletic shoes replaced traditional casual shoes, and shoe stores began to carry more athletic shoe styles
than traditional styles.

Reference
1.NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CENTRAL BOARD OF SECONDARY EDUCATION
Delhi
Text Book on Fashion Studies Class XI First Edition 2014, CBSE, India