Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) embroidery technique from the Punjab region of the Indian

subcontinent, literally means flower work, which was at one time used as the word for
embroidery, but in time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and
head scarfs. Simple and sparsely embroidered odini (head scarfs), dupatta and shawls, made
for everyday use, are called Phulkaris, whereas garments that cover the entire body, made for
special and ceremonial occasions like weddings and birth of a son, fully covered fabric is
called Baghs ("garden") and scattered work on the fabric is called "adha bagh" (half garden).
This whole work is done with white or yellow silk floss on cotton khaddarh and starts from
the center on the fabric called "chashm-e-bulbul" and spreads to the whole fabric.

Etymology
The word phul means flower and kari means craft, thus its name, literally means floral work
or floral craft.

Origin

Phulkari from Punjab, India, 20th century Head Cloth

(Phulkari) 19th century Punjab LACMA M.64.24.1

Punjab is known for its Phulkaris. The embroidery is done with floss silk thread on coarse
hand woven cotton fabric. Geometrical patterns are usually embroidered on the Phulkaris.
Phulkaris and Baghs were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and
other joyous occasions. They were embroidered by the women for their own use and use of
other family members and were not for sale in the market. Thus, it was purely a domestic art
which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought colour into day-to-day life.
In a way, it was true folk art. Custom had grown to give Phulkaris and Baghs to brides at the
time of marriages. The exquisite embroidery for Baghs are known to have been made in the
districts of Hazara,[1] Peshawar,[1] Sialkot,[1] Jhelum,[1] Rawalpindi,[1] Multan,[1] Amritsar,[1]
Jalandhar,[1] Ambala,[1] Ludhiana,[1] Nabha,[1] Jind,[1] Faridkot,[1] Kapurthala[1] and Chakwal
of the Punjab region. Bagh and phulkari embroidery has influenced the embroidery of Gujarat
known as 'heer bharat' in its use of geometrical motifs and stitchery.[2]

There is reference of Phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of
Punjab. In its present form, phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century.[3]

The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of
coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women created innumerable alluring
and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. The base
khaddar cloth used in Western Punjab is finer from those of Central Punjab. Black/blue are
not preferred in Western Punjab, whereas white is not used in East Punjab. In West Punjab, 2
or 3 pieces of cloth are first folded and joined together. In East Punjab, they are joined
together first and then embroidered.

In Phulkari embroidery ornaments the cloth, whereas in Bagh, it entirely covers the garment
so that the base cloth is not visible.[4] The end portion of pallav of Phulkari have separate
panels of exquisite workmanship of striking design.

The most favoured colour is red and its shades, because Bagh and Phulkari are used during
marriage and other festivals. Red is also considered auspicious by Punjabi Hindus and
Sikhs.[5] Other colours are brown, blue, black, white. White was used in Bagh by elderly
ladies. Silk thread in strands came from Kashmir, Afghanistan and Bengal. The best quality
silk came from China.

No religious subject or darbar scenes were embroidered. Phulkari encompassed life in the
villages. Creative ability of Punjabi women has produced innumerable and intricate
geometrical patterns. However, most motifs were taken from everyday life. Wheat and barley
stalk with ears are a common motif.

Types
Chope and subhar

The two styles of chope and subhar are worn by brides. The chope is embroidered on both
sides of the cloth.

Antique Chope Phulkari created using the Holbein stitch

that results in the same visual on the front and the back of the textile. Courtesy the
Wovensouls collection

Only the borders and the four edges of the cloth are embroidered in fine embroidery.[6] The
subhar has a central motif and four motifs on the corners.[7]
Til patra

The til (sesame) patra has decorative embroidery which is spread out as if spreading sesame
seeds.[6] The term til patra means 'the sprinkling of seeds'.[8]

Neelak

The neelak phulkari is made of a black or red background with yellow or bright red
embroidery. The colour of the phulkari is mixed with metals.[6]

Ghunghat bagh

Originating in Rawalpindi, the ghunghat bagh is heavily embroidered around the centre on
the edge to be worn over the head. The embroidered centre is then pulled over the face so as
to form an embroidered veil.[6]

Chhamaas

The chhaamas phulkari hails from Rohtak, Gurgaon, Hissar and Delhi. The chaamas phulkari
incorporates mirrors which are sewn into the cloth with yellow, grey or blue thread.[6]

Phulkari of south and southwestern Punjab region

The phulkari of south and southwestern Punjab region, has wide edges upon which designs of
animals and birds are embroidered. As is the case of the chaup, the edges are embroidered on
both sides of the cloth.[6] South and southwestern Punjab region includes the south Punjab,
India, south and south west of Punjab, Pakistan.

Senchi phulkari

The senchi phulkari is popular in and around Ferozepur. The senchi phulkai incorporates
designs of birds, jewellery such as bracelets, earrings, rings and necklaces.[6]

Revival and modern applications

Traditionally, phulkari garments were part of a girl's wedding trousseau, its motifs expressive
of her emotions and the number of phulkari pieces defined the status of the family.[9] Over the
years, government has been working towards promotion of phulkari embroidery, by
organizing special training programs, fairs, and exhibitions.[4] Since most of women artisan
creating phulkari are in the unorganized sector or work through agents, they do not make
much money compared to an actual market price of their product, to avoid this lacuna Punjab
Small Industries and Export Corporation (PSIEC) has formed women self-help groups and
cooperatives to sell directly and make more profits.[10]

Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (IGNCA) acquired a collection of selected
phulkari for its archives in 1994.[11] Some modern fashion designers are incorporating this
embroidery into their garments, and its use has spread beyond salwar kameez and dupatta to
objects and garments as varied, as jackets, bags, cushion covers, table-mats, shoes, slipper,
juttis, and kids garments.[4][12]
In 2011, after a five-year-long legal case, Phulkari was awarded the geographical indication
(GI) status in India, which means that after that only registered traders and manufacturers,
from Punjab Haryana and Rajasthan states would be able to use the term for the traditional
craft, and the patent information centre (PIC) of Punjab State Council for Science and
Technology would issue a logo or hologram to distinguish the product.[13]