The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block

Determining Stretch Ratio

What is Stretch Ratio?

The stretch ratio of a knit fabric is the maximum percentage it will stretch across its width or along its
length. The stretch ratio of your fabric tells you how much ease is needed in the pattern which for most
stretch knits means the pattern (and resulting garment) will be made smaller than the body

E
measurement to achieve a good fit. You will need to determine the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric
before proceeding to draft.

PL
How to Determine the Stretch Ratio of Your Fabric

Knit fabrics come in a wide variety of stretch ratios. The Stretch Knit Bodice Block Draft is designed to
take into account any knit fabric you choose. Follow the steps below to determine the stretch ratio for
the crosswise grain of the fabric for your bodice block. Refer to the video in step two, lesson two for
determining your fabric’s direction of greatest stretch.
M
1. Take your fabric and fold it about 2” below the cut edge along the crosswise grain. With the fabric
relaxed, place a pin about 3” away from the selvedge and place another pin 4” away from the first pin.

2. Grasp the pins, one in each hand. Place and hold the first pin at the 0 point of a ruler. Gently stretch
A
the fabric along the ruler and make note of the measurement that the second pin will comfortably
stretch to. If the fold of the fabric starts to curl up, you’ve stretched it too far.

3. Using the measurement from step 2, refer to the chart below to find the stretch ratio of your fabric.
EX

You will use the Length and Width Reductions from the chart to draft your Stretch Knit Bodice Block.

If you plan to sew lots of knit tops, I suggest you build a basic block for each of the knit types and their
stretch ratios. This will make it super quick and easy to design tops and dresses that work with any knit
fabric.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
IN-HOUSE IN-HOUSE
17 16 15 14 13 6 5 4 3 2 1 17 16 15 14 13 6 5 4 3 2 1

KNIT TYPE STABLE MODERATE STRETCHY SUPER STRETCH FOUR-WAY

4” (10 CM) STRETCHES TO 4 3/4” (11.8 CM) 5” (12.5 CM) 6” (15 CM) 7” (17.5 CM) 8” (20 CM) +

STRETCH RATIO 18 % 25 % 50 % 75 % 100 % +

LENGTH REDUCTION 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% - 2%*

WIDTH REDUCTION 0% 2% 5% 10 % 12 %

*If using 100% stretch ratio fabric, use a length reduction of 0%. Reduce by 1-2% for very loose knit drapey fabrics only.

The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block [ ©2016 Alexandra Morgan] www.inhousepatternsstudio.com