How to Make a Fake ID

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Co-authored by wikiHow Staff | 21 References
Updated: October 21, 2019

Creating a convincing fake ID is not only extremely difficult, but extremely dangerous. The
penalties for making a fake ID often include jail time and thousands of dollars in fines. It
also doesn’t help that law enforcement, security professionals, and ID scanners are
incredibly adept at spotting fraudulent documents. If you do decide to go through with it
and make a fake ID, you’ll need a template, a solid understanding of how to use photo-
editing software, and access to the right cardstock and materials.

1
Making a Simple Fake out of Cardstock

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1. Scan the front and the back of an ID. You can either use your own ID and change
the text, or you can use someone else’s ID and change the image so long as their
measurements, hair, and eye color are a match. Regardless of which option you
choose, you need to scan the ID using a scanner. Scan the back of the ID as well to
ensure that the barcode on the back will match the ID on the front.[1]
The barcode on the back is encoded with the information on the front. Even if
you’re changing the text, you still want it to show the same state, license
number, and unmodified information.
It is easier to change a photo than to change the text.
Warning: It will be very difficult to use a random ID on the internet because you’ll
need to change almost every aspect of the ID. On top of that, the resolution will look
wrong when you print it unless you can adjust it to match the size of an ID perfectly.

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2. Open the front of your ID with an image-editing program like Photoshop. If you
don’t know or have an image-editing program like Photoshop, GIMP, or Photoscape,
you can use an online image editor like Sumo Paint or Paint.Net. Open the image in
your program of choice to adjust the ID.[2]
You can find Sumo Paint at https://www.sumopaint.com/ and Paint.Net at
https://www.getpaint.net/. Both of these online programs are free to use.

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3. Paste a new photo over the current ID’s image if you scanned someone else’s ID.
Open the photo that you’re going to use to replace the current photo. Trim the photo
so that it is a similar size to the original ID’s photo. Export the new photo to a separate
file and then open it in the same project as the scanned ID. Drag it on top of the
original photo until you’re happy with the location.[3]
Alternatively, you can put the new photo over the location where the photo
belongs on the ID and the cut the sides of the image off with the crop tool in
whatever program you’re using.
Hold the shift key down in Microsoft programs while dragging the corner of a
photo to keep the ratio between the sides of the image identical to the original
photo.
If your new photo won’t go in front of the ID, right click it and find the layers tab.
Select “bring it to the front” or “front” to make it lay on top of the ID.
If you need to take a new photo specifically for your new ID, use a camera and a
tripod to take it. Try to duplicate the background on the original ID by hanging a
drape or bedsheet of the same color behind you.

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4. Identify the font used in the ID by searching online and comparing to change
your ID. If you scanned your personal ID and want to change the text, you need to
start by figuring out what typeface your font uses. You can look online to see if the
info for your state or department is available or you can simply open the ID next to a
list of commonly-used fonts and compare them.[4]
Courier, with slab serif, is used on a lot of older licenses.
A lot of newer driver’s licenses use Arial—or some slightly-modified version of it.

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5. Cover type by copying and pasting the background over old text. Use the clone
tool or “clone stamp” to cover any letters or numbers that you want to change. Zoom
in on the ID and copy the blank piece of background right next to the letter or number
you’re changing. Move the copied piece of background over the letter and number
and place it to make it seem like it was never there in the first place. Place a text box
over any letters or numbers that you need to replace before typing in new values.[5]
You can zoom in and modify the text that already exists instead of replacing it.
For example, you can turn an 8 into a 6 by clone stamping the upper section of
an 8 on the right. Similarly, you can turn a 6 into an 8 by cloning the bottom right
of the lower loop and pasting it into the opening.
If you plan on changing entire lines of text, the end result is going to look really
bad. Try to modify as few of the text fields as possible since the clone tools in
editing programs will only work on a smaller scale with the complicated
backgrounds of most IDs.
Check the base of any new text you enter to ensure that it lines up with the
other characters on the ID.

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6. Change the name, birthdate, codes, or license numbers. Modify as few of the text
fields as possible to minimize the need to cover text. If the details don’t match the
photo though, you may not have much of a choice. Change the hair color, eye color,
and height to match the person that plans on using the ID. If you’re just using the ID
for novelty purposes, you don’t need to worry about changing these details.[6]
Enter a full name, without abbreviations. The only instance in which you might
use an abbreviation is for things like "Albert Smith Jr." or "Thomas Jones III."
Use a realistic birth date. Don’t leave the birth date as 1951 if you look 20 years
old.

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7. Print the front and back of your ID on heavy cardstock and cut them out. Get
some matte, heavy cardstock that weighs between 100–130 lb (45–59 kg). Print the
front and the back of your ID on the same cardstock. Cut them out with scissors or a
utility knife and straight edge.
The weight of cardstock refers to how heavy 500 sheets of a particular type of
paper is. 130 is probably the heaviest that you can print at home on a standard
printer.
You can use a paper cutter if you have one. This will result in cleaner lines, but
they may fray along the edges depending on the style of cardstock you use.[7]

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8. Glue the sides together and let it dry. Use a heavy-duty glue if you have one. Spread
it out against the backside of each half using a cotton swab or small nozzle
attachment. Carefully press the 2 halves together and smooth each side out by
pinching it between your fingers and sliding them to the edge while starting from the
center. Place the ID under a heavy object to flatten it as it dries.[8]
Leave your ID for 4-8 hours before touching it again.

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 9. Laminate the ID using a laminator. Turn the laminator on and set it to a medium-
low temperature. Place your ID in the opening and let it flow through the laminator.
Let it cool for 5-10 minutes before touching it. Once you’ve removed it and trimmed
the excess laminate, you’ve got a fake ID.[9]
Depending on the make and model of your laminator, you may need to let it
warm up for a few minutes before using it.
If the temperature is too high, the glue in between the 2 layers of cardstock will
melt.
Trim the laminate with a pair of scissors or a utility knife. It should be really easy
to get a clean cut when trimming the laminate since it’s so thin.

2
Printing a High-Quality Fake ID

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1. Purchase some Teslin paper to get a real ID feel. Most government IDs are printed
on a proprietary cardstock that you won’t be able to purchase. Teslin paper is a good
substitute and will closely resemble the feel of a government ID after you laminate
and trim the final product.[10]
A lot of medium- and high-end laser printers have the capacity to print on Teslin
paper, but the quality may be low if you try to use a printer that doesn’t have
manual controls for the print settings.
Warning: Inkjet printers tend to have a tougher time printing on Teflin. Try using
Artisyn instead if you have an inkjet printer. The quality of the ID’s material won’t be as
good, but the print job will be cleaner.

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2. Get butterfly laminate pouches that match the thickness of the ID you’re
copying. Once you print the ID on Teflin, you’ll need to laminate it to match the
thickness and feel of the state that you’re replicating. Get a pouch laminator that
matches the thickness of the style of ID that you intend on duplicating. Pouch
laminators come in 4 sizes: 3, 5, 7, or 10 millimeters.[11]
You can use regular laminate pouches if you want, but butterfly laminates come
with a crease that reduces the odds of air bubbles forming on your ID. Since air
bubbles are one of the biggest tip-offs that an ID is fake, you really need to use a
butterfly pouch.
Get a laminate pouch with a holographic exterior to make your ID look
authentic. You won’t be able to find identical patterns unless you buy some
illegally or download the template on the deep web.

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3. Find an ID Template online that matches the state that you’re trying to fake. To
get an accurate ID template, you’ll need to download one from a torrent-hosting site.
You may be able to buy or download one from the deep web as well. You can try
digitally-editing a scan or photo of an ID, but the resolution is unlikely to match the
original.[12]
The most popular torrent-hosting sites are https://www.thepiratebay.org/ and
https://torrentfreak.com/.
To digitally edit a real ID, you’ll need to use the duplicate/stamp clone tool and
erase every single line of unique text.
Some templates are form-fillable, meaning that you can simply type each line of
text into the template and print it that way.
Warning: There is a high chance that you will accidentally download a virus or
malware onto your computer if you do this. Keep the risks in mind if you’re serious
about creating a fake ID.

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4. Take a new photo using the same background and upload it to your computer. If
the ID photos for your state have a blue background, set up a blue drape or blanket
behind you. Use three-point lighting to replicate the look of professional photos by
setting up three light sources with 2 on either side of your camera and 1 above you.
Set your camera on a tripod and use the self-timer to take your portrait.[13]
Don’t take your photo on a phone. Even if the picture looks good, the resolution
is probably wrong for an ID card. Use a high-quality camera on a low shutter
speed to take the photo.

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5. Edit the image in Photoshop, Fireworks, or GIMP to make it look real. Set your
photo up on a screen next to a copy of a real ID. Adjust the contrast, brightness, and
saturation levels in your image until you’re confident that it looks like a real ID photo.
Export your edited photo as a new image to save the original in case you aren’t happy
with the final product.[14]
In Photoshop, click the adjustments panel on the side. Select the layer that your
photo is on and slide the brightness, contrast, and saturation to adjust the
colors and light in your photo.

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6. Drag the image on to the template and trim any edges to make it fit. Import your
new photo into the ID template and drag it to the proper location. Some templates
will automatically center it for you, but you may need to crop the image so that it fits
the slot for the portrait. If the photo stays behind the template when you move it,
right click the photo and select the layers option. Click “front” or “bring to front.”[15]
Try to make as few adjustments to the size of your image as possible. This will
reduce the odds that the resolution comes out fuzzy when you print the ID.

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7. Adjust the text in the boxes so that they match your description. In the United
States (and many other countries), the eye color and hair color codes are 3 letters.
They represent a corresponding color for hair and eyes. Use the code that most
closely matches the hair and eye color of the person in the photo.[16]

Color Codes:

Eye Color:

BLK - Black

GRY - Gray

BLU - Blue

GR – Green

PNK - Pink
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BRO – Brown

HZL - Hazel

MUL – Multicolor

Hair Color:

BAL – Bald

BRO – Brown

SDY - Sandy

BLK - Black

GRY - Gray

WHI - White

BLN – Blonde

RED – Red

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8. Modify the restriction and endorsement codes for your ID. Some IDs have
restrictions and endorsements for drivers with disabilities, special exemptions, or
unique licenses. Check your state’s ID to see if there are restriction and endorsement
codes. If there are, write the endorsement code as “P,” for passenger vehicle, since this
is the most common endorsement. The restriction code is usually either “A” or left
intentionally blank for a regular driver.[17]
Other common restriction codes include “B” for people that wear corrective
lenses or glasses, and “R” for motorcycles. If either of these apply to you, change
the endorsement code.

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9. Enter your signature using a thin paint tool in your editing program. Use a thin
drawing tool in your photo editing software to include the signature. Try to match the
thickness of your line to the thickness of a real signature. Select black for the color of
your line and use your mouse to carefully draw your signature. It may take multiple
attempts before you get a signature that works.[18]
It can be kind of tough to free-hand a signature with the mouse. Feel free to
redo it until you get a signature that matches your real one.
On a lot of fake IDs, the signature is a dead giveaway that it’s not authentic. Do
your best to get the thickness of the lines to match by adjusting the size of your
brush in the editing software.
Keep in mind that the signature on IDs will never extend beyond the allotted
borders for it on a real ID. Use the erase tool to trim any sections that go past
the box for your signature.

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10. Modify your printer settings to set them to the highest resolution. Go into the
printer settings on your computer and set each slider to the highest quality possible.
On the printer itself, make sure that all of the ink levels are high so that the color isn’t
cloudy when you print your ID.[19]
If you can, use a pigment-based inkjet printer. These tend to produce vibrant
results and work well with Teslin, even though they’re inkjet printers. They are
usually more expensive though.

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11. Print the ID on Teslin paper and fold it into the butterfly pouch. Print your image.
It may take a longer time than usual for the image to print. Let the ink dry by letting
the paper sit for 30-45 minutes. Open a butterfly pouch by lifting the sheet and sliding
the ID into it. Place the protective paper that came with the pouch on top of the
butterfly pouch. [20]
The butterfly pouch is just a folded sheet of laminate. The crease at the top is
the side you enter into the laminator first. This ensures that no air bubbles get
trapped in the laminate.

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 12. Laminate the pouch and trim the edges to finish the job. Set your laminator to a
medium heat level. Place the sheet, Teslin paper, and butterfly pouch into the
laminator crease-first. Slowly guide the ID through the machine and let it sit for 30-45
minutes before opening the paper and discarding it. You will see the pouch sealed
around the ID. Trim the edges with a utility knife, to get a clean cut against the
edge.[21]

Community Q&A
Search
Add New Question
Question
Can I just copy my actual photo ID with the hologram?
Question
How do I deal with law enforcement (FBI, INTERPOL) scanning it against their systems
and finding it is fake since it isn't logged?
Nolanblock
Community Answer
You're pretty much screwed at that point. Don't try to get alcohol or cigarettes if you
are underage. If you do have a fake ID, don't let the police get hold of it.
23/26
 Question
Would it be cheaper to make my own one or buy a pre-made one? (I found one for
$60)
Question
Where can you find all the materials for this?
Question
Can I scan my ID, then change some parts of it?
Community Answer
Yes, just be sure to keep the changes realistic. And consider changing the name as
well as any other parts so that your true identity isn't shown on the ID. Stay safe!
Question
Is it illegal if I just want to do this for fun and not use it for anything? Can I get in
trouble for that?
Question
How do I decipher what combination of numbers to use on a fake license, and does it
matter? When scanned, is the number combination traceable?
Community Answer
This would depend on the state issuing the license. You could simply ask at the DMV,
or search the state agency website. The number is traceable to each individual in the
DMV database. States classify this as personal information that should not be shared
without the license owner's permission, which is why Uber was found to be at fault
and charged large fines after a breach of their systems leaked driver's license
numbers a few years ago.
Question
Can the fake ID be used to apply for a job?
Community Answer
Probably not. If your prospective employer is asking you for ID, they're probably going
to run a background check on you, which involves logging into a government database.
They'll realize it's a fake ID immediately.
Question
Why would someone want to make a fake ID if it's illegal?
Community Answer
It can be useful for role playing, as a play or movie prop, or as a decorative item in a
display. What is illegal is the misuse of it, not the creation of it for such creative
reasons.
Question
Can I make a fake passport for a fictional character?

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night?
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 There is a ribbon available for my zebra zc300 card printer that can print holograms.
Do you think the quality would be good enough to make fake IDs?
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is it illegal to make a fake ID for someone to play around at their house?
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Warnings
No matter how good you think your ID is, law enforcement and other trained
professionals will be able to tell that it’s fake. It is extremely dangerous to try and use
a fake ID for anything other than novelty or entertainment purposes.
Unlike being caught with a single fake ID that is printed on cardstock, producing high-
quality fakes can often be classified as a felony. People have been fined millions of
dollars and given up to 15 years in jail for selling and manufacturing fake IDs.

Things You’ll Need

Making a Simple Fake out of Cardstock

Original ID
Scanner
Photo editing software
Cardstock
Glue
Scanner
Scissors
Glue

Getting Supplies for Convincing Fakes

Photo editing software
High-quality printer
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 Teslin paper (or other synthetic paper)
Butterfly laminate pouches

Editing and Printing Your ID

Utility knife
Laminator

References

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How to create a fake ID - copy and modify your card
*Skip to “Step 4” if you already have a template.

This is what your template will look like before we fix it up.

In this Instructable, I'll be showing you how to make a duplicate of basically any ID or other sort of card. I
will also outline the methods for modifying this card for any sort of novelty purpose.

Notice I say novelty - this is not intended for fraudulent or otherwise illegal activities. I accept no legal
responsibility for any said ventures.

As this is my first instructable, any comments or questions are welcome and appreciated.

Step 1: Supplies Needed

For this project, you will need the following items:

ID/whatever card - Get out your old Joe Schmoe, INC. identification card, library card, or whatever it is
you feel you need to have an upgraded duplicate of.
Photoshop - or any other equivalent software - however, I'm gonna be using photoshop so it will be
easier to follow along if you are using it as well.
Scanner - Good quality if possible
Printer - Also good quality
Laminator - more detail on which type when I get to it
Teslin paper - available from several websites. I recommend www.poisonid.com as it is the only site I
could find selling the 4 x 6 perforated sheets I use here. They run from $4 US for a single ID to $33 for a
pack of 20. IMO, go for the big pack because in all likelihood you will screw up a couple of times in the
process of making this. Make sure you get the kind for your printer, whether inkjet or laser. Artisyn
paper supposedly is just is good or better, but I've never tried it.
Butterfly laminate pouches - Again, many websites to choose from. If you buy from PoisonID, they
come with the teslin paper. However, if you want your card to be magnetic stripe-scannable, then you
will need to buy from a site selling 10 mil pouches (PoisonID's are 7 mil - close, but probably won't work
with a magnetic strip encoder). They will also need a magnetic strip on the back - try here
Ruler
Scalpel or scissors or both
Sand paper

Optional:

Hologram overlays - available from PoisonID as well as many other sites. Gives it some extra pizazz.
However they are stick-on so they're a royal pain in the ass to apply without mucking up.
Magnetic stripe encoder - Pretty expensive normally. I would look for one on ebay to try and score it for
under $150. Good luck.
Curling iron/regular iron/hair straightener - if the ID you are trying to copy has a hologram on it, use
one of these to get rid of it.

Step 2: Preparing the card

The first thing we will need to do is make a template out of your desired old card. If the card contains a
hologram, we will end up making it unusable before we can make a copy out of it. This is to ensure a
good scan that you can work with. Remember, the quality of the template you create can make or break
this card.

To start, get out the card you will be copying. For this demonstration, I am showing the process of
duplicating a "Joe Schmoe Inc." corporate identity card.
If the old card is worn out, take a rag to it and try and get rid of any gunk left on the surface. Also, if your
card has a hologram, it has to go. To accomplish this, do the following:

Get out your iron/curling iron/hair straightener/portable hot, flat surface.

Let it heat up, then gently start applying it to one of the edges of your card. Make sure not to leave the
iron on the card for very long - use quick motions, dragging the iron away from you off the edge of the
card, on and off fairly fast. This prevents ruining the card by melting it or making bubbles.

Apply the iron to the card until you can lift up the top laminate layer. Depending on what type of card
it is, it may contain much of the text and possibly even the photo. Don't worry if bits of the background
pattern come off as it is fairly easy to repair any damage in Photoshop.

Step 3: Scanning the card

Toss your new, hologram-free card into your scanner. If it has any quality settings, be sure to set them
to maximum. Fire it up, and if you're lucky you should get something that looks like the picture below.

Most likely you will have a fair bit of text left, which we will be replacing in the next step to improve
quality.

Step 4: Photoshop fixing 1

In this step we will remove the remaining text, as well as getting rid of any imperfections.

Open your scan in photoshop. In this example we will be changing the "ID type" section of the card to
say "full clearance" - that's what you had in mind for a fake ID right?

Select the Clone Stamp tool, and Alt-click in the area surrounding the text you want to replace. You may
need to adjust the brush size to fit the area you are working on (this is done from the toolbar across the
top). Work piece by piece, making sure the area you alt-click has a similar colour/texture to the
background behind the text. Next, click over the adjacent section of the text to replace it.

Once you are done removing all the text (yeah, all of it. Scanned and then reprinted text looks terrible),
fill it in using the type tool. You will want to try and match the font to that on your ID. If you can't,
Helvetica or Helvetica Condensed is a good bet for an official-looking typeface.

Continue using the Clone Stamp tool to replace any blemishes or holes in the ID, such as in the photo
area, where bits of colour may be left over. An alternative to the Clone Stamp is the Marquee select tool
(keyboard shortcut M). For areas that are simpler to fix (ie, text or holes over solid background), just
select a spot next to it and copy and paste it over.

Step 5: Photoshop Fixing 2

This step really should be Photoshop Fixing 1, but it's not. You're gonna have to pick up the slack that
I've left off.

What we're going to do now is replace the header texture, as well as any other sort of divider or
background bars that didn't survive scanning. Notice on the image in step 3 how the blue bars on the
image look kinda crappy? We will now rectify that so when you print it, it does not look antique.

First off, locate the spots you need to fix. If there is text over top of it which you replaced, make it
invisible by going to the Layers tab on the right hand corner, and clicking the eyeball next to the specific
text layer. What you're about to do will make the previous task of cloning the background over the old
text in these spots redundant. This is the reason step 4 mostly should have come first. But that's ok,
practice is good.

Next, find a way of selecting the box. This should be easy if it doesn't have rounded corners. Just pick
your Marquee Select tool, and highlight the area. If your area is of an odd shape, such as the header
with rounded corners on the example card, refer to steps 1 - 4 of the image below.

The method I've described in the picture below will somewhat replicate the pattern on the card I have
copied. For different patterns, feel free to ask, otherwise figure it out yourself. Set your foreground
colour to the one of the dark colours of blue on the header (use the eyedropper tool and click over the
spot where the colour is). Set the background colour to white.

Get the gradient tool. For those not familiar with Photoshop, it's hiding behind the paint bucket tool. Go
to the gradient options on the top toolbar, and select radial gradient. Then, on the same panel set the
gradient type to "foreground to background". Making sure you still have the box selected, drag a
straight line down from above the centre of the box to below the bottom of it. Aim for a nice spherical
gradient throughout the middle of the box without too much harsh white.

Next, you will want to add a pattern overlay. What I did was create a new image about 10 x 10 pixels,
draw a squiggly black line across it, then go Edit->Define Pattern. Next, I separated the header box into a
separate layer, by selecting it, copying it, deleting it, then pasting it. It will paste into a new layer - just
line it back up to where it was. Now, right click on your new layer and go to Blending Options. Select
Pattern Overlay, and select the pattern you just created. Lower the opacity down to a good level (10%
seems pretty good), and voila. Feel free to mess with it to achieve the desired effect. Keep in mind the
details are not very noticeable once the card is printed and laminated.

Repeat the steps on this page for any other boxes which need fixing. After that, un-hide any text layers
you had previously hidden, copy and paste your picture into the white box, and make any needed
finishing touches to your template.

Step 6: Printing

Now that you have a nice working template, it's time to make it a card. Get out your Teslin/Artisyn
paper, and put it into your printer tray. Depending on your printer model, you may have to adjust the
slider on the paper tray to line up with the size of your paper (that is, assuming you purchased the 4x6
perforated Teslin paper, which you should). Make sure the Teslin paper you buy is for your type of
printer, whether inkjet or laser.
Before you print the template on Teslin, you may want to do a few test runs on regular 4 x 6 paper to
get the alignment right so that it fits right within the perforated area. Get the size to the right
dimensions and centre your image.

Once you've got it aligned correctly, go to Photoshop, and hit Print Preview->Page Setup. Under Paper
Size, select 4x6 and hit OK. Click Print, then on the next screen go to Properties. Set it to Photo Printing -
Borderless, then print.

When it's done, don't pop the card out of the perforation. We still have to print the rest of it. Oh yeah,
did I mention there's a back side?.

For the back side of the card, just repeat the steps used to create the template of the front side. Once
that's done, flip your Teslin paper over and stick it back in the printer. Print again.

You can now pop the card out of the perforation. If the tempate did not fit perfectly into the perforated
area, use your scalpel and ruler or scissors to trim it to shape. It is ok if you have a few areas to be cut
down, just as long as you can make it look good when finished.

Step 7: Laminating

The next step is to laminate your card. The reason we have used Teslin paper rather than regular paper
is that when laminating, Teslin adheres much more strongly to the pouches. This will prevent your card
from falling apart.

When it comes to using a laminator, you will want one that can handle the thickness of laminate pouch
you are using. Try and use one that accepts at least 7 mil, preferably 10. It must also do hot laminate,
not cold. Good quality laminators will produce better results.

Turn on your laminator and let it heat up.

While it's heating, put your freshly-printed template into the laminate pouch, with the top of your card
against the seam. This will save you from cutting important parts of the ID off in case the laminate
pouch slips in the laminator. It is also possible to use a tiny amount of super glue on the back of the card
to secure it in place.

Once the laminator is ready, put the card in seam-first. Give it a bit of time to cool when it comes out
before handling it or bending it. If the card comes out floppy or it seems the laminate has not adhered,
run it through the laminator again.

Step 8: Finishing touches

When your card comes out, you will likely have to cut and sand down edges of the laminate. Your
scalpel, ruler, scissors, and sand paper will do the trick. However, be careful with the sand paper as you
may end up turning the edges of the card white.

Once you are satisfied with your product, you can add a hologram overlay (as seen below). Simply peel
and stick, making sure you line it up square. To prevent getting bubbles under the overlay, perform this
step in a vacuum. If you don't have a vacuum chamber at your disposal, or have no way of getting into
space, then just work your way edge to edge with your finger while sticking it on, getting rid of the air
underneath. This can be tricky. Also a good reason why you should buy several hologram overlays.

If you still have bubbles under the hologram, use the back side of a knife or a rolling pin to force them
out.

Finally, if you want to make your card swipeable, get out your magnetic stripe encoder. What comes
next you will have to figure out, as I have never operated one.

Congratulations, you're finished.

DEAR FAKERS!
This on the right is what you get by just scanning an
ID.
Some bother to make it better in Photoshop but the
result is always bullshit.

That’s why I vectorize the template for you! Vector

graphics is like magic in the world of graphic design.
You can zoom or stretch it as much as you want but
the quality will never drop. It’s always sharp.
Dont let yourself be fooled by the jagged details on those sample pics below. These are just raster
screenshots. I will include a cut-out of a real vector detail on the last page. That one you may zoom
and inspect.

Moreover! You can adjust the settings and appearance of the details any time and really easily!
Only took my like 4-5 clicks to chnage these colors. Will only take 3-4 clicks to to change the thickness of
any line in any object group.

I’m a professional designer who has been working with vector graphics for the last 20 years. I know what
I’m doing!

So, if you have an Id or any other document that you would like to template, I’ll make a nice and high-
quality vector image of it for you. All I need is a high-quality scan of the original. Some documents are too
complex to reproduce. For example those which have photos in it’s design. If you can’t provide me the
same high-quality photo that was used in the design or if I can’t nd it myself, I may not be able to
reproduce it for you with a sufcient quality. In tese cases I will not take any responsibility of the quality and
outcome of the end-result.
Looking at those sample images on the previous pages you may understand, that due to the level of detail
my job isn’t easy and it will take several good days of painstaking work. Some less, some more.

But despite of that I will not charge you according to the time I spend. No. My charge is only 200€ per
regular 86x54mm ID. Flat. Larger templates will cost more but it won’t be like 2x the = 2x the prize.

If you know what you’re doing and need my services, send me an email to

JUHILUBA@PROTONMAIL.COM

and we will have a deal.

The promised 1:1 scale cut-out of a real vector

graphic design. You may zoom it in as much as you
like and see the stunning sharpness of details.