DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Venice - The Veneto, 2018 Edition PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Venice
& the Veneto
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Venice
& the Veneto
Main Contributors Susie Boulton, Christopher Catling

Produced by Pardoe Blacker Publishing
Limited, Lingfield, Surrey
Project Editor Caroline Ball
Introducing Venice Venice
Art Editor Simon Blacker and the Veneto Area by Area
Editors Jo Bourne, Molly Perham,
Linda Williams
Designers Kelvin Barratt, Dawn Brend, Discovering Venice and Venice at a Glance 58
Jon Eland, Nick Raven, Steve Rowling the Veneto 10
Map Co-Ordinators Simon Farbrother, A View of the
David Pugh
Putting Venice and the Grand Canal 60
Picture Research Jill De Cet
Contributor (Travellers’ Needs) Sally Roy Veneto on the Map 16
Maps Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley,
San Marco 76
Jane Hanson (Lovell Johns Ltd, Oxford UK) A Portrait of
Street Finder maps based upon digital data, the Veneto 20 San Polo and
adapted with permission from L.A.C. (Italy) Santa Croce 100
Photographers
John Heseltine (Venice), Roger Moss (Veneto)
Venice and the Veneto
Illustrators Through the Year 36 Castello 112
Arcana Studios, Donati Giudici Associati Srl,
Robbie Polley, Simon Roulstone The History of Venice Dorsoduro 126
Printed and bound in China and the Veneto 40
First American edition 1995 Cannaregio 140
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The Lagoon Islands 150
Published in the United States by DK
Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York,
New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 1995, 1997
(twice), 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001,
2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010,
2012, 2014, 2016, 2018
Copyright 1995, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the
rights under copyright reserved above,
no part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in or introduced into
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any
form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise), without the prior written
permission of both the copyright owner
and the above publisher of this book.
A catalog record for this book is available
from the Library of Congress
ISSN: 1542-1554
Gondolas on the Grand Canal with Piazza San Marco in the background
ISBN 978 1 46546 798 0
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with British usage, ie the “first The information in this
floor” is the floor above ground level. DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
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Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
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Title page A gondola amid colourful Venetian houses Front cover image Gondolas on the Grand Canal
Back cover image Lago di Limedes, Dolomites
Contents
The Veneto Travellers’ Survival Guide
Area by Area Needs
The Veneto at Where to Stay 228 Practical Information 268
a Glance 164
Where to Eat Travel Information 278
The Veneto Plain 166 and Drink 236
Venice Street Finder 288
Verona and Shops and Markets 252
Lake Garda 190 General Index 302
Entertainment in
The Dolomites 216 the Veneto 258 Acknowledgments 316
Specialist Holidays and Phrase Book 319

Outdoor Activities 262
Vaporetto Routes around
Venice Inside Back Cover
A glittering Venetian mask, typically The stunning façade of the Roman Arena, famous for its large-scale opera performances
worn during the carnival
Cross section of the

Basilica San Marco
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your important sights, with maps, pictures and
stay in Venice and the Veneto. It provides detailed illustrations. Suggestions for food,
both expert recommendations and detailed drink, accommodation, shopping and
practical information. Introducing Venice and entertainment are in Travellers’ Needs, and
the Veneto maps the region and sets it in its the Survival Guide has tips on everything
historical and cultural context. Venice Area by from the Italian telephone system to
Area and The Veneto Area by Area describe the travelling around Venice by vaporetto.
Venice Area by Area VENICE AREA BY AREA  77
The city has been divided into SAN MARCO Each area of Venice can
be quickly identified by its
Home of the political and judicial nerve only one deemed fit to be called a piazza –
five sightseeing areas. The centres of Venice, the sestiere of San Marco
has been the heart of Venetian life since
the others were merely campi, or fields.
The San Marco area has the bulk of luxury
colour coding.
the early days of the Republic. The great hotels, restaurants and shops. It is also home
lagoon islands make up a sixth showpiece of the Serenissima was the

Piazza San Marco, conceived as a vista for
the Doge’s Palace and the Basilica. The
to several imposing churches, three theatres,
including the famous Fenice, and a wealth
of handsome palazzi. Many of these line the
area. Each area has its own

square, described by Napoleon as “the most sweeping southern curve of the Grand
elegant drawing room in Europe”, was the Canal, which borders the sestiere.
Sights at a Glance
chapter, which opens with a Churches

3 Basilica San Marco pp82–7
q San Moisè
7 Columns of San Marco and
San Teodoro
1
2
Restaurants see pp242–3
Acqua Pazza
Ai Assassini
12 Da Raffaele
13 Devil’s Forest Pub
A locator map shows
list of the sights described. All where you are in relation to
e Santa Maria Zobenigo s San Giorgio Maggiore 3 Ai Mercanti 14 Do Forni
y Santo Stefano Streets and Squares 4 Al Bacareto 15 Grand Canal
i San Salvatore 5 Alla Caravella 16 Harry’s Bar
t Campo Santo Stefano
a San Zulian 6 Antico Martini 17 Osteria Da Carla
other areas of the city.

o Campo San Bartolomeo
the sights are numbered and

Museums and Galleries 7 Bar all’Angolo 18 Osteria Enoteca
p Mercerie
8 Bar Cavatappi San Marco
5 Libreria Sansoviniana Bars 9 Bistrot de Venise 19 Ristorante
6 Museo Archeologico
9 Harry’s Bar 10 Centrale alla Borsa
8 Museo Correr
11 Da Ivo 20 Ristorante Quadri
plotted on an Area Map. The

u Museo Fortuny Theatres
21 Rosso Pomodoro
Palaces 0 Ridotto
22 Rosticceria
r La Fenice
4 Doge’s Palace pp88–93 San Bartolomeo
w Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo
detailed information for each

CAMPO SAN
BARTOLOMEO
Historic Buildings and
1
Rialto
Monuments
Area Map
AP DO
E
RIL
1 Campanile
VIA
N
de
Ri
2 Torre dell’Orologio BO
sight is presented in numerical

o
AR
an LC
Gr
di
DE ME
S
A CORTE
RIV TEATRO RC
Sa
a l ER
lv
IA
an
CAMPO D.
ad
For easy reference, the

o
GUERRA
C
r
C
o CAMPO
A
Ri
Sant' Angelo di SAN LUCA

LL
E
CALLE D. FUSERI
order, making it easy to locate

CAMPO
Sa
SAN BENETO CAMPO CO

EI
MAR
n
RA
CAMPIELLO MANIN S
GA
BE
C
DEL TEATRO AR
FA
FIU
D.
CL
sights are numbered and

BB
AV
C.
Lu
i
RI
er
V
ca
F us
OC
Rio
Rio
na
AT
RA ro
di
MO CAMPO Ve C D. OLI
within the chapter.

LEZ
ZE CLLO SANT’ lla BAR
CAR
ANGELO
de
NUOVO PIAZZA
CAMPO SAN MARCO
nt
FREZ
Sa
BI
located on a map. The

SAN
Rio
I OR
FANTIN
’A
DE
ng
ZER
San te
elo
E
LL
Samuele Ves
IA
CA
CPO SAN le
SAMUELE del CAMPO
Rio SAN MOISE
ca CAMPO GIARDINETTI
ARZO
io
Du CAMPO SAN REALI

XI I M
l
da
d Gigl
l SANTO MAURIZIO GA X
ssimo
sights are also shown on

C LAR
Vi
Rio
de STEFANO
Rio
Rio
D. PONTE
San
izio
ZZI 15 - 16
Santí
C BARO San Marco

n
Maur
Giardinetti
Moi
Sa
dell’Albero
CALLE GRITTI
Rio S Maria
Rio del
o
C
Ri
sè
n
C D. DOSE
Rio di San
CAMPO
a
al SAN VIDAL San Marco

Vallaresso
the Venice Street Finder

Gr
and
e Gíglio SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE
Sights at a Glance lists

on pages 288–97.
San Giorgio
the chapter’s sights by

Ca
na
le
de
Teatro
0 metres 250
lla
Verde
category: Churches;
Gr
0 yards 250
az
See also Street Finder

ia
maps 6, 7
Museums and Galleries; Splendid mosaics inside the domes of Basilica San Marco For keys to symbols see back flap
Historic Buildings; Palaces; 94  VENICE AREA BY AREA SAN MARCO  95
Streets, Bridges and Squares. Street-by-Street: Around La Fenice

West of the huge expanse of the ever-crowded Piazza San Campo San Fantin has a
SAN POLO AND
SANTA CROCE
Marco there is a labyrinth of alleys to explore. At the centre of late Renaissance church,
C ALLE DEI FUSERI
San Fantin, with a

this part of the sestiere is Campo San Fantin, flanked by the particularly beautiful apse
Renaissance church of San Fantin. Nearby is the Ateneo designed by Jacopo
Veneto, formerly a scuola whose members had the unenviable Sansovino.
CA NIN
DORSODURO
MA
role of escorting prisoners to the scaffold. The narrow streets

MP
DE
around these sights have some wonderfully exotic little CAN Locator Map
O
D LO
shops, while the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, further south, boasts LLE See Street Finder, map 7
2
CA
IA
Street-by-Street Map
big names in Italian fashion. The quarter in general has some ES
RT The statue of Daniele Manin, leader
RI
excellent restaurants but, being San Marco, the prices CO

of the 1848 uprising, stands on
O
in the majority of establishments are fairly steep. D

Campo Manin gazing towards the
D
C
I
house where he once lived.
This gives a bird’s-eye

C
A
LL
A
A
E
N SERI
N
O FU
D V
R O
L
E RI
view of the heart of

U
V
ER

C
D
O
A This palazzo is often difficult to find, but

r . La Fenice
N
IO
The opera house R worth seeking out for its fairy-tale
LI external stairway (c.1499).
gained its name (“the RO
RCA
each sightseeing area. phoenix”) after a fire in

1836. Destroyed by fire
again in 1996, it is now
beautifully restored. TA RO
L
C D
EI
BA
UT
L FR
C DE SC INA
I PI
CD
DI
PIS C RIA
ZE
FR EZ
C A SA N N
FA
M PO
ICE O
EN
N TI
CALLE DEL LA F OL
GN
FRE
BO
Stars indicate the sights that no CA

L LE
ZZE
visitor should miss.

RIA
RI
O
D
E E
E IS
ST MO
I
E
EV
BA
S
CAL
LL SC Frezzeria, in medieval
DE PI
RCA
RIO SAL SAN MOISE times, was the street

LE
O
O
C AMP
IGLI
where citizens went to

ROLI
SAN
D V
C A L L E D E L P I O VA N
E
MOIS
R I O D E L L’ A L B E R O
The Rio delle Veste leads past the rear of the theatre. purchase their arrows
ADG
ES
This is the route taken by those fortunate enough to (frecce). Its shops now
TE
arrive for their night out by gondola. sell exotic clothes.

MARI
II
A XX
ARG
LE L RZO
CAL MA
RIO S
98  VENICE AREA BY AREA

0 metres 75
SAN MARCO  99 Calle Larga XXII
Marzo was named
0 yards 75 after 22 March
e Santa Maria Zobenigo 1848, the day of
which is squeezed between alleys, lined by small shops and a San Zulian The carvings feature the Barbaro Manin’s rebellion. q . San Moisè
shops along the Mercerie. The boutiques. The 17th-century family, who paid for the church Today the street is The exuberant Baroque façade of
Key Campo San Zulian. Map 7 B2.
present church was designed English author John Evelyn Tel 041 523 53 83. 4 San Marco. façade. Ground-level reliefs show best known for its San Moisè (c.1668) was funded by a
by Giorgio Spavento in the early Suggested
described it as route
“the most towns where the family held high- trendy designer legacy from the patrician Vincenzo Fini,
Open 8:30am–7pm daily. 5 in
16th century, and continued by delicious streete in the World English: 10:30am Sun. ranking posts. boutiques. whose bust features above a side door.
Tullio Lombardo and Jacopo for the sweetnesse of it …
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp232–5 and pp242–9
Sansovino. The pictorial tapisstry’d as it were, with Cloth On the busy Mercerie, the
highlight is Titian’s Annunciation of Gold, rich Damasks & other church of San Zulian (or
(1566) over the third altar on the silk”. He wrote of perfumers, Giuliano) provides a refuge
right. Nearby, Sansovino’s apothecary shops and from the crowded alleys.
monument to Doge Francesco nightingales in cages. Today all Its interior features gilded
Venier (1556–61) is one of this has been replaced with woodwork, 16th- and
several Mannerist tombs in the fashions, footwear and glass. 17th-century paintings, and
church.
On the high altar is Titian’s
Transfiguration of Christ (1560). St George and Dragon bas-relief on a corner
At the southern
end, the relief over
the first archway on
sculpture. The central panel
of the frescoed ceiling
portrays The Apotheosis
A suggested route for
a walk covers the more
The end of the right transept is of the Mercerie the left portrays the of St Julian,
dominated by a vast monument woman who in painted in 1585
to Caterina Cornaro, Queen of p Mercerie 1310 accidentally by Palma il
Cyprus (see p47). Executed by stopped a revolt. Giovane. The
interesting streets in the area.

Map 7 B2. 4 San Marco or Rialto.
the sculptor Bernardino Contino She dropped her 16th-century church
in c.1580–84, the tomb shows Divided into the Merceria pestle out of the façade was designed
the queen handing over her dell’Orologio, Merceria di San window, killing the by Sansovino and paid
kingdom to the doge. Zulian and Merceria di San standard-bearer of for by the rich and
Salvatore, this is, and always has a rebel army. They Bronze statue of immodest physician
been, a principal shopping retreated, and the Tommaso Rangone Tommaso Rangone.
o Campo San
thoroughfare. Linking Piazza San woman was given a His bronze statue
Bartolomeo Marco with the Rialto, it is made guarantee that her rent stands out against the white
Map 7 B1. 4 Rialto. from a string of narrow, bustling would never be raised. Istrian stone walls.
Close to the Rialto, the square

of San Bartolomeo bustles with s San Giorgio In the Chapel of the Dead is
life, particularly in the early Maggiore his last work, The Deposition
3
Courtyard of the Palazzo Pesaro, where Fortuny lived evening, when young Venetians (1592–4), finished by his
Detailed information
rendezvous here. They meet at Map 8 D4. Tel 041 522 78 27. 4 San son Domenico.
u Museo Fortuny The large rooms and portego cafés, bars or by the statue of Giorgio. Open 9:30am–12:30pm,
2:30–4:30pm (later in summer). &
The top of the tall campanile,
Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei, Campo San
make a splendid and Carlo Goldoni (1707–93), reached by a lift, affords a
Foundation: Tel 041 524 01 19. Open
appropriate setting for the Venice’s prolific and most superb panorama of the
on each sight
Beneto, San Marco 3958. Map 6 F2. 10am–5pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar: to
Tel 041 520 09 95. 4 Sant’Angelo. precious Fortuny fabrics. Woven celebrated playwright. His 4pm). & 8 in English: 11am, 1pm &
city and lagoon.
Open during exhibitions only. & ^ with gold and silver threads, statue, in a fitting spot for a 3pm (also 5pm in summer). ∑ cini.it Centuries ago Benedictine
∑ fortuny.visitmuve.it these were created by Fortuny’s writer who drew his inspiration monks occupied the original Cloisters designed by Palladio in the monastery
reintroduction of Renaissance from daily social intercourse, is Appearing like a stage set monastery, which was rebuilt of San Giorgio Maggiore
Known principally for his fantastic
pleated silk dresses, Fortuny was
also a painter, sculptor, set
techniques and use of
ancient dyes. The collection
also includes paintings by
by Antonio del Zotto (1883). across the water from the
Piazzetta, the little island of
San Giorgio Maggiore has
in the 13th century following
an earthquake. It
later became a
1797 (see p50) the monastery
was suppressed and its
All the sights in Venice are
described individually.
designer, photographer and Fortuny (less impressive than been captured on canvas centre of learning treasures plundered.
scientist. One of his inventions the fabrics), decorative panels countless times. and a residence for In 1829 the island became a
was the Fortuny Dome, which is and a few of the finely pleated, The church and monastery, eminent foreign free port, and in 1851 the head-
used in theatre performances to clinging silk dresses regarded built between 1559 and 1580, visitors. Following quarters of the artillery. By this
Addresses, telephone
create the illusion of sky. as a milestone in early 20th- are among Andrea Palladio’s the Fall of the time it had changed out of
Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, century women’s fashion. greatest architectural Republic in recognition. The complex
or Don Mariano as he liked to achievements. The church’s regained its role as an active
be called, was born in 1871 in temple front and the spacious, cultural centre when the
numbers, nearest vaporetto

Granada and moved to Venice i San Salvatore serene interior with its perfect monastery, embracing Palladio’s
in 1889. In the early 20th century Campo San Salvatore. Map 7 B1. proportions and cool beauty cloisters, refectory and library,
he purchased the Palazzo Pesaro, Tel 041 523 67 17. 4 Rialto. are typically Palladian in that was purchased in 1951 by
a late Gothic palazzo that had Open 9am–noon, 4–6:30pm Mon– they are modelled on the Count Vittorio Cini. Today it is
originally been owned by the
fabulously rich and influential
Pesaro family. Fortuny spent the
remainder of his life here and
Sat. ∑ chiesasansalvador.it
The interior of this church is an

excellent example of Venetian
Classical style of ancient
Rome. Within the church,
the major works of art are
the two late Tintorettos on
a thriving centre of Venetian
culture, with international
events and exhibitions.
In the middle of the park on
stop, opening hours and
both the house and its contents
were bequeathed to the city by
his wife in 1956.
Renaissance architecture. If the
main door is closed visitors can
enter by the side entrance,
The beautiful Renaissance interior of the
church of San Salvatore
the chancel walls: The Last
Supper and Gathering of
the Manna (both 1594).
Palladio’s church of San Giorgio Maggiore on the
island of the same name
the island is an evocative open-
air amphitheatre, or Teatro Verde,
of white Vicenza stone.
information on admission
charges are also provided.
THE VENETO AREA BY AREA  167
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE VENETO PLAIN
The great arc of land that forms the Veneto Plain is one of
tremendous contrast, and has much to offer the visitor.
Its ancient cities are rich in history and their magnificent
architecture is world-renowned. The source of the region’s
1 Introduction
wealth is manifest in the industrial landscapes around the
towns, but these are never far from beautiful countryside,
The Veneto Area by Area

which includes the green Euganean Hills, calm lagoons and
the undulating vine-clad foothills of the stunning Dolomites.
The area known as the Veneto Plain Wealth from agriculture, commerce
The landscape, history and
character of each region is
sweeps round from the Po river delta and the spoils of war paid for the
in the southwest to the mountains that
form the border between Italy and
beautification of these cities through the
construction of Renaissance palaces and In this book, the Veneto has been
Slovenia. The whole region is crossed by
a series of rivers, canals and waterways,
all of which converge in the Adriatic Sea.
public buildings, many of them designed
by the region’s great architect, Andrea
Palladio. His villas can be seen all over
described here, showing divided into three regions, each
The river-borne silt deposits that
created the Venetian Lagoon cover the
region, making the land fertile. The
the Veneto, symbols of the idyllic and
leisured existence once enjoyed by
the region’s aristocrats.
how the area has developed of which has a separate chapter.
Romans established their frontier posts
here, and these survive today as the
great cities of Vicenza, Padua and Treviso.
The symbols of modern prosperity –
factories and scarred landscapes – are
encountered frequently, especially
over the centuries and what The most interesting sights to
Their strategic position at the hub of the
empire’s road network enabled them
to prosper under Roman rule, as they
around the town of Mestre. Yet there
are areas of extraordinary beauty as well.
Petrarch (see p188), the great medieval
it offers to the visitor today. visit have been numbered on
continued to do under the benign rule Romantic poet, so loved the area that
a Regional Map.
of the Venetian empire more than he made his home among the gently
1,000 years later. wooded Euganean Hills.
168  THE VENETO AREA BY AREA THE VENETO PLAIN  169
Exploring the Veneto Plain

The landscape of the Veneto Plain is as flat as a board, but it is far
Getting Around
An extensive rail network and good bus
Each area of the Veneto can be
services make this region easy to explore by
from dull. Villagers in the small communities dotted throughout
the region used to compete to build the tallest church tower,
public transport. Roads are heavily used, so
avoid cities and autostrade during rush hours. quickly identified by its colour coding.
and these seemingly needle-thin landmarks
soaring skywards draw the traveller on.
Great stone castles, dating from the Ghértele Follina Vittorio Veneto
Trento
14th century, rise on almost every o
ian
The town of Bassano del Grappa, nestled in the
promontory, Alps with a
each top
Al Campanella VALDOBBIADENE CONEGLIANO
Palladio’s Villa Rotonda near the town of Vicenza
Va
Asiago
Fresco depicting Christbackdrop on clear
in Paradise (1378) days
by Giusto of
de’ Menabuoi in the Baptistry, Padua Pederobba
l
Mo
d’
Vidór n ti c
Ás
the distant Alps. Valstagna Susegana ano Udine,

tic
Trieste
o
Za
ra Leghe Tezze
Cavrari
2
Ciano Oderzo Motta di
Arsiero Tórtima ASOLO Livanta
Regional Map
Lusiana Spresiano Pia Annone
ve
Véneto PORTOGRUARO
Caltrano Ás t i c o BASSANO Montebelluna
DEL GRAPPA Fossalta
MAROSTICA Candelú Maggiore Santo Stino Lugugnana
Sights at a Glance Schio Fanzolo Vascón Ponte di Livenza
B re n t a
Tag
This shows the road network
THIENE di Piave
CASTELFRANCO Li
l
Longa
iam
1 Vicenza pp170–75 Paese ve
n
Sandrigo TREVISO Ceggia z a
en t
2 Thiene CITTADELLA Quinto
o
Z er di Treviso San Giorgio
3 Marostica Fontaniva o e
Malo Sil di Livenza
and gives an illustrated

San Donà Bibione
4 Bassano del Grappa Casale di Piave
5 Cittadella VENETO sul Sile
Caposile Eraclea
CAORLE
6 Castelfranco Camposampiero Scorzè Mogliano
Piazzola Veneto Pia
overview of the whole region.

7 Asolo Key VICENZA Portegrandi ve Eraclea Mare
sul Brenta Noale Martellago
8 Valdobbiadene Jésolo
Cortellazzo
Major road
9 Treviso Camisano Spinea Lido
Minor road Vicentino Mirano
0 Conegliano Limena MESTRE ta di Jésolo
All the sights are numbered

Secondary road Longare
e
q Portogruaro Cavallino
n
i Oriago
ric
Ve
Ba
w Caorle Motorway cc Punta

Be hi
Verona ti gli Dolo Sabbioni
e Mestre Motorway under on on Venézia
e PADOVA n ta Fusina Lido
M
construction Bastia Bre (Venice)

r Padua (Padova)
and there are also useful tips

Barbarano (PADUA) Strà
pp180–87 Main railway
na
Br
Abano Terme
en
t Euganean Hills Minor

gu
ta
railway Orgiano
HIL NEAN
y Montagnana
Ca
Montegrotto
La
on getting around the region

na
Scenic route Terme

u Este
l
LS
Corte
i Monselice Noventa
A
Regional border Vo Bovolenta

Vicentina Piove Pellestrina
EUG
o Polesine and Rovigo di Sacco

Mantova Arquà Petrarca
p Chioggia
by car, bus and train.

MONSELICE Pontelongo CHIOGGIA
MONTAGNANA ESTE
Treponti
Urbana Chiesazza Solesino Bagnoli Cona
di Sopra S. Anna
Fratta
Stanghella
Cavarzere Ádi
Ádige ge
Badia
Lendinara
Rosolina
ROVIGO Adria
Fratta
S I N E
Polesine P O L E Porto Viro
Bi
an The colourful quayside market in the town of Chioggia, the
Bagnolo co Pa lagoon’s principal fishing port
e s i n e r
di Po P o l Taglia di Po D
co
elt Reg La Pila
Polesella a i
Chiavicone Po Po de ona
Ariano l P l
nel Polesine Rivá
Porto
o e
Po Tolle
Scardovari
Cassella
Ferrara,
Bologna 0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
The castellated walls of Montagnana, dating from medieval times

For additional map symbols see back flap
182  THE VENETO AREA BY AREA PA D UA  183
Exploring Padua Eremitani Museums
3
Padua is an old university town with an illustrious academic This major museum complex occupies a group of
Detailed information on
history. Rich in art and architecture, it boasts two outstanding 14th-century monastic buildings attached to the church of
sights. The first is the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5) in the the Eremitani, a reclusive Augustinian Order. The admission
north of the city, which is renowned for Giotto’s lyrical frescoes. ticket includes entry to the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5),
Close to the railway station, it forms part of the Eremitani
each sight
which stands on the same site, overlooking the city’s Roman
museums complex. The second is the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, Sundial on the façade of the Palazzo amphitheatre, and to the Archaeology Museum, the Bottacin
one of Italy’s most popular pilgrim shrines, which forms the della Ragione Museum of coins and medals, and the Medieval and Modern
focal point for a number of sights in the south of the city Art Museum, all of which are housed around the cloisters.
All the important towns and (see p186). A combined museum ticket is available. P Palazzo della Ragione
Piazza delle Erbe. Tel 049 820 50 06.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm in
summer). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. The Museums
other places to visit are described

&=7 The highlight of the rich
The “Palace of Reason”, also known archaeological collection is
as the “Salone” by locals, was built the temple-like tomb of the
to serve as Padua’s law court and Volumni family, dating from the Angels in Armour (15th century) by
individually. They are listed in council chamber in 1218. The vast

main hall was originally frescoed
by the celebrated artist Giotto, but
1st century AD. Among several
other Roman tombstones from
the Veneto region is one to the
Guariento in the Art Museum
especially the comical Drinking
order, following the numbering

fire destroyed his work in 1420. young dancer Claudia Toreuma Satyr by Il Riccio (1470–1532).
Detail from the Egyptian room, upper floor of the Caffè Pedrocchi The frescoes that survive today are – sadly, a fairly dull inscribed Coin collectors should make
by the relatively unknown Nicola column rather than a portrait. a point of visiting the Bottacin
P Caffè Pedrocchi university building is mostly Miretto, though their astrological The collection also includes Museum. Among the exhibits
on the Regional Map. Within each

Via VIII Febbraio 15. Tel 049 878 12 31. used today for graduation theme is fascinating. some fine mosaics, along with there is an almost complete set
Open daily (Jun–Oct: Tue–Sun). ceremonies. Originally it housed The Salone is breathtaking in its The tomb of the Volumni family in the several impressive life-size of Venetian coinage and some
Museo del Risorgimento e dell’Età the medical faculty, renowned sheer size. It is Europe’s biggest archaeological collection statues depicting muscular very rare examples of Roman
Contemporanea: Tel 049 820 50 07. throughout Europe. Among its undivided medieval hall, 80 m Roman deities and toga-clad medallions.
town or city, there is detailed

Open 9.30am–12.30pm, 3:30–6pm famous teachers and students (260 ft) long, 27 m (90 ft) wide dignitaries. For most visitors the The massive Medieval and
Tue–Sun. Closed Aug. & was Gabriele Fallopio (1523–62), and 27 m (90 ft) high. The scale is Eremitani Church Renaissance bronzes are likely Modern Art Museum is well
∑ caffepedrocchi.it
after whom the Fallopian tubes reinforced by the wooden horse Alongside the museum com- to be the most appealing worth a visit. It covers the
Grand cafés have long played an are named. displayed at one end – a massive plex is the Eremitani church feature of the museum, history of Venetian art, with
information on important important role in the intellectual

life of northern Italy, and many
philosophical issues have been
thrashed out at the Caffè
Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia
was the first female graduate in
1678 – long before women
could study at many of Europe’s
beast, copied from Donatello’s
Gattamelata statue (see p187) in
1466 and originally made to be
pulled in procession during
(1276–1306), with its magni-
ficent roof and wall tombs.
Interred here is Marco
Benavides (1489–1582), a
paintings from Giotto to the
1700s. Another section looks
at Giotto and his influence on
local art, using the Crucifix from
buildings and other sights. Pedrocchi since it first opened

in 1831. Politics superseded
philosophy when it became a
other universities. Her statue is
on the staircase leading to the
upper gallery of the 16th-
Paduan festivities.
The walls are covered in
Miretto’s frescoes (1420–25), a
professor of law at the city
university whose mausoleum
was designed by Ammannati,
the Scrovegni Chapel as its
centrepiece. The Crucifix is
flanked by an army of angels
centre of the Risorgimento century courtyard. total of 333 panels depicting the a Renaissance (late 15th century)
movement, dedicated to Visitors on the tour are shown months of the year with architect from painted in gorgeous
liberating Italy from Austrian rule; the pulpit Galileo used when he appropriate gods, zodiacal signs Florence. Sadly colours by the
it was the scene of uprisings in taught here from 1592 until and seasonal activities. missing from the artist Guariento.
1848, for which several student 1610. They also see the world’s Also within the palazzo is the church are Another 15th-
leaders were executed. Later it oldest surviving anatomy theatre Stone of Shame, on which bank- Andrea Mantegna’s century painting
became famous as the café that (1594), viewing the room from rupts were exposed to ridicule celebrated frescoes worth a look is
never closed its doors. These days the centre looking up. before they were sent into exile. of the lives of St James Portrait of a Young
people come to talk, read, play and St Christopher (1454–7), Senator by Giovanni Bellini.
cards or watch the world go by which were destroyed during
as they eat and drink. a bombing raid in 1944. Two VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The upstairs rooms, decorated scenes from this magnificent
in Moorish, Egyptian and Greek work survive in the Ovetari Practical Information
styles, are now the premises of Chapel, south of the sanctuary. Piazza Eremitani 8.
a museum. The Martyrdom of St James was Tel 049 820 45 50.
reconstructed from salvaged ∑ turismopadova.it
Stars indicate the sights that no

P Palazzo del Bo (University) fragments, and The Martyrdom Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun.
Via VIII Febbraio 2. Tel 049 827 51 11. of St Christopher was removed Only chapel open Mon.
Open Tue, Thu & Sat am, Mon, Wed Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec.
carefully and stored elsewhere
&^=7
& Fri pm (may vary, phone to check). before the bombing. Other-
visitor should miss. &8

Named after a tavern called Il Bo
(the ox), the historic main The 16th-century galleried anatomy theatre in the Palazzo del Bo
wise only photographs on the
walls remain to hint at the
quality of the lost works.
Early 14th-century crucifix on loan
from the Scrovegni Chapel
Transport
@
174  THE VENETO AREA BY AREA VICENZA  175
Vicenza: Teatro Olimpico

For all the top sights,
Courtyard VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sculptures
Europe’s oldest surviving indoor theatre, the The courtyard of the Practical Information
former castle is
a Visitors’ Checklist provides

Teatro Olimpico is an elegant and remarkable Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444 22 28 00.
decorated with ∑ olimpicovicenza.it
structure, largely made of wood and plaster and sculpture donated by Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (last
painted to look like marble. Fashionable members of the adm: 4:30pm). Regular theatre
the practical information you

architect Andrea Palladio (see pp28–9) began Olympic Academy, the performances. Closed 1 Jan,
learned body that 25 Dec. & 7 =
work on the design in 1579, but he died the built the theatre.
following year without finishing it. His pupil, Transport
Vincenzo Scamozzi, took over the project and
completed the theatre in time for its ambitious
opening performance of Sophocles’ tragic
@ to Piazza Matteotti.
will need to plan your visit.
Armoury Gateway
drama, Oedipus Rex, on 3 March 1585. This stone gateway, with its military-style
Bacchantes carvings, leads from Piazza Matteotti into the
Euripides’ Greek tragedy is still picturesque theatre courtyard.
performed using Scamozzi’s
versatile scenery.
. Odeon Frescoes
The gods of Mount Olympus,
after which the theatre is
named, decorate the
Odeon, a room used
for music recitals.
4 The top sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
are dissected to reveal their
interiors; museums and
galleries have colour-coded
KEY
floorplans to help you locate
1 The Anteodeon’s frescoes
(1595) depict the theatre’s opening
performance. Oil lamps from the
the most interesting exhibits.
original stage set are also on display.
2 Main ticket office
Costume Designs for Sofonisba
3 The auditorium was designed Ancient Greek vases inspired the
by Palladio to resemble the outdoor . Stage Set costumes for this tragedy (1562)
theatres of ancient Greece and Scamozzi’s scenery by Palladio’s patron, G G Trissino.
Rome, such as the arena at Verona represents the Greek city
(see p197), with a semicircle of of Thebes. The streets are
“stone” benches (actually made cleverly painted in Façade Statues
of wood) and a ceiling painted perspective and rise at a The toga-clad figures are
to portray the sky. steep angle to give the portraits of sponsors who paid
illusion of great length. for the theatre’s construction.
INtroducINg
VeNIce aNd
the VeNeto
Discovering Venice
and the Veneto 10–15
Putting Venice and the
Veneto on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of the Veneto 20–35
Venice and the Veneto
Through the Year 36–39
The History of Venice
10  INTRODUCING VENICE AND THE VENETO
DISCOVERING
(Mantua VENICE
AND THE VENETO
The following tours have been designed for Venice, all by train or bus. Finally, the 14-day
visitors to experience Venice and the Veneto itinerary includes four days in Venice and an
to the full. First are suggestions of how to extensive 10-day driving tour through the
make the most of Venice in either two or varied Veneto countryside across the sunny
three days. These are then combined with a Lake Garda shores, the peaks of the Dolomites
seven-day tour of the historic, culturally rich and the Po Delta nature reserves.
cities of the Veneto, Padua, Verona, Vicenza Pick one tour, combine suggestions from
and Belluno, which can either be done by a the different tours, or simply dip in and out
circular journey, or by making day trips from to create your own itinerary.
Arco
Rovereto
Sc
Lago di
Basilica San Marco Garda
San Pietro
Regarded as one of the best examples Grotte di in Cariano
of Byzantine architecture in the world, Catullo
Desenzano Valpolicella
the Basilica San Marco has a magnificent del Garda Sirmione
façade and interior.
Verona
One Week in Venice and the Veneto
•
Board a vaporetto to •
Wonder at the powerful
travel Venice’s entrancing frescoes by Giotto, Mantova (Mantua)
waterway, the Grand lining the walls of the
Canal, lined with a host Scrovegni chapel in
of stunning palazzi. the lively city of Padua. Ostiglia
•
While enjoing a coffee
•
See the famous
Juliet’s Balcony, then
in Venice’s Piazza San
be amazed by the
Marco, marvel at the
vast Roman arena
Basilica San Marco and in beautiful Verona.
Doge’s Palace before
climbing the Campanile
•
Stroll the streets of
Palladio’s city, Vicenza,
for views to the Alps.
and visit the oldest
•
Take a ferry from Venice theatre in Europe,
to the islands to see the Teatro Olimpico. Key
intricate lace on •
In picturesque Belluno One week in Venice and the Veneto
Burano, handblown head to the bell tower Two weeks in Venice and the Veneto
glass on Murano and of the Duomo for
ornate mosaics in the spectacular views of
cathedral at Torcello. the Dolomite peaks.
Marco Polo sailing from Venice in 1271, from a late 15th-century illuminated manuscript
DISCOVERING VENICE AND THE VENETO  11
Two Weeks in Venice

and the Veneto
•
Admire the magnificent
Cortina art treasures of Venice’s
d’Ampezzo
churches and stupendous
world-class galleries.
Passo Pordoi Andraz
Pieve di •
Cross the Grand Canal the
Livinallongo
Pieve Venetian way, standing up
di Cadore in a traghetto (foot ferry).
•
Sip coffee in Caffè Pedrocchi
in Padua, frequented in
the 19th century by famous
intellectuals. Enjoy live jazz
here in the evening, too.
Belluno
•
Experience opera in the
open air at the massive
Roman arena in Verona.
•
Take a leisurely boat trip
Feltre on Lake Garda, soaking up
Vittorio the dramatic natural scenery
Veneto and admiring the shoreline
villas and gardens.
•
Sip grappa on the bridge in
Possagno the pretty town of Bassano
del Grappa, with the
Bassano mountains as your backdrop.
del Grappa Asolo Villa Barbaro
chio
•
Visit Arquà Petrarca in the
gentle Euganean Hills and
the romantic village of Asolo.
Treviso •
Marvel at the mountain
VENETO landscape on the Dolomite
Bre
Road, then relax in the chic

nta
Vicenza
resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Padova Mira
(Padua) Stra
Venezia (Venice)
Malcontenta
Euganean Hills
Arquà Petrarca Golfo
di Venic e
Montagnana
Chioggia
Adige
Rovigo
Po Polesine
0 miles 25
0 kilometres 25
Grand Canal
The banks of Venice’s busy main
watercourse are filled with beautiful
buildings, best viewed from
a vaporetto or a gondola.
Two Days in Venice
You can see the major

sights of Venice in two days.
Use the vaporetti (water
buses) and stroll the calle
(alleyways) to get around.
•
Arriving Marco Polo Airport
is 13 km (8 miles) from the
city centre. The Alilaguna
public boat takes 45 minutes
to reach San Marco; the
No. 5 bus takes around
25 minutes to Piazzale Roma.
The white marble façade of Ca’ Rezzonico
•
Booking ahead Basilica
San Marco; Doge’s Palace, for a vaporetto ride to the splendid
Secret Itineraries Tour. Ca’ Rezzonico (p130), a museum
Three Days in Venice
to 18th-century Venice. Dine out
in the nearby Campo Santa Three days in Venice allows
Day 1 Margherita (p131) before taking a more leisurely pace for
Morning Beat the queues by an evening vaporetto ride along exploring the city.
arriving early in Piazza San the Grand Canal (pp60–75). •
Arriving Marco Polo
Marco (pp78–9) for the Basilica
Airport.
San Marco (pp82–7), encrusted Day 2
within and without with Morning Get your fill of art, •
Booking ahead Same as
glittering mosaics. For more both ancient at the Accademia for Two Days in Venice
magnificence, head for the (pp134–7) and modern at
Gothic Doge’s Palace (pp88–93). the Peggy Guggenheim
The Secret Itineraries Tour will Collection (p138). Lunch by Day 1
lead you to the prisons and the waterside and watch canal Morning Start early and
the huge Sala del Maggior boats go by. orient yourself with a trip
Consiglio with its marvellous by vaporetto on the Grand
Tintorettos. Put the city into Afternoon Leave early by ferry Canal. Stop off at Piazza San
context by riding to the top of for three very different islands: Marco (pp78–9) and indulge
the Campanile (p80) for views Murano (pp156–7), where the in a coffee to the strains of an
to the Alps. The former stables Museo del Vetro showcases orchestra before taking a tour
under the Doge’s Palace make marvellous examples of glass; of the Doge’s Palace (pp88–
a handy spot for lunch. Burano (p156), whose Museo 93), where you can climb the
del Merletto has traditional lace; Giants’ Staircase and cross
Afternoon Venice is the and Torcello (pp154–5), for a the Bridge of Sighs to see
ideal city for strolling, so head cathedral full of decorative Casanova’s prison cell. Take a
west-wards past the Baroque mosaics. Shuttle back to Burano look at the gondolas moored
church of San Moisè (p96) for the excellent fish restaurants, at the water’s edge, then head
and the city’s opera house, La then round off your stay with an away from the main piazza
Fenice (p97), until you reach the evening gondola ride or with a for lunch.
Sant’Angelo vaporetto stop. Take promenade and an ice cream.
Afternoon Book an early
afternoon slot to view the
splendours of the Basilica
San Marco (pp82–7). Don’t
miss the Treasury or the
balcony for a close-up view
of the four horses and the
façade mosaics. Walk along
the famous shopping street,
the Mercerie, to the busy
Rialto Bridge (p104) and
admire the Grand Canal in
action. Seek out an enoteca
(wine bar) to enjoy cichetti
(snacks) and aperitifs before
Red and ochre buildings lining a canal in Murano a leisurely dinner.
Day 2 One Week in Venice Day 5: Verona

Morning Head for the Castello and the Veneto Start your day in Verona by
district and the Museo Storico visiting the imposing church
Navale (p122), where the Padua, Verona, Vicenza and of San Zeno Maggiore
Doge’s ceremonial barge, the Belluno are easy day trips (pp202–3), then wander through
golden Bucintoro, holds pride from Venice. Suggestions to to Castelvecchio (p195) for some
of place. Stroll to the Scuola di extend the tour to 10 days of the best art in the Veneto.
San Giorgio degli Schiavoni are included. Stop at Piazza Erbe (p198) for
(p122) for exquisite paintings lunch. Visit the Casa di Giulietta
•
Airport Arrive and depart
by Carpaccio, and the Gothic (p201) to see its famous balcony,
from Marco Polo Airport.
church of Santi Giovanni e and then the vast Roman Arena
Paolo (pp120–21), where 25
•
Transport Regular trains (p197). Cross the Adige river for a
doges are commemorated and buses go to Padua and stroll in the Renaissance Giardino
with magnificent tombs. Vicenza from Venice; trains Giusti (p205) before dining near
Campo Santa Maria Formosa serve Verona and Belluno. Piazza dei Signori (p198).
(p118) is a lovely spot for lunch.
To extend your trip…
Afternoon Cross the lagoon Days 1–3 Take the bus from Verona to
for the islands of Murano See Three Days in Venice. Lake Garda (pp210–15). Stay
(pp156–7), Torcello (pp154–5) in Sirmione (pp212–13).
and Burano (p156). Treat Day 4: Padua
yourself to some glassware A day in Padua should include
on Murano and admire the the Giotto frescoes of the Day 6: Vicenza
resplendent 13th-century Cappella degli Scrovegni Vicenza belongs to the architect
mosaics in peaceful Torcello’s (pp184–5) and the treasures of Palladio. Admire his many palazzi
cathedral. Then head to the Eremitani Museums (p183). and the Teatro Olimpico
Burano, with its enchanting Caffè Pedrocchi (p182), once (pp174–5). You can’t fail to miss
multicoloured houses and a favourite of 19th-century the majestic Basilica in Piazza
lacework shops. Having intellectuals, makes a good dei Signori (p172), then seek out
worked up an appetite, choose refreshment stop and Piazza the shady Monte Berico, Villa
one of Burano’s excellent fish delle Erbe has a daily market for Valmarana and Villa Rotonda
restaurants for your supper. picnic supplies. Be sure to see the (p173), all within walking distance
16th-century wooden anatomy of the city centre.
Day 3 theatre at Palazzo del Bo (p182)
Morning Make for the San and the frescoes in the Duomo Day 7: Belluno
Polo district and the church and Baptistry (p186). Stroll Take a scenic train ride to
of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei down via del Santo to the shrine Belluno (p224), on a balcony over
Frari (pp106–7) for masterpieces of the Basilica di Sant’Antonio the whole Veneto plain, with the
by Titian and Bellini. Squeeze (pp186–7), or shady Orto peaks of the Dolomites behind.
in a cappuccino and pastry Botanico (p187) if you need a Wander the grand squares and
before going on to the rest. Piazza dei Signori (p180) palazzi, then climb the bell tower
Scuola Grande di San Rocco is a good place for dinner. of the Duomo for the best vista.
(pp110–11) and absorbing its
remarkable cycle of Tintorettos. To extend your trip… To extend your trip…
Lunch in the lively Campo San Tour the Brenta Canal On returning to Venice, take
Giacomo dell’Orio (p108). (pp186–7) by bus or boat. a boat to Chioggia (see p189)
Start from Padua or Venice. for great views of the lagoon.
Afternoon Cross into
Dorsoduro and immerse
yourself in the splendours
of the Baroque Ca’ Rezzonico
(p130) before taking in the
Renaissance masterpieces
at the Accademia (pp134–7),
including Carpaccio’s St
Ursula’s Cycle, and paintings
by Picasso, Miró and Kandinsky
at the Peggy Guggenheim
Collection (p138). Dine on
the waterfront and perhaps
attend an evening concert
of Vivaldi at the church of
San Vidal (p261) by
Accademia Bridge. The splendid interior of the Teatro Olimpico, Vicenza
Mira, and the late Baroque Villa

Pisani at Stra – are open to
the public. You can return by
bus or train to Padua.
Day 7: Verona
After picking up your hire
car, leave Padua for the lovely
city of Verona (pp190–207)
to soak up the Roman, the
Romanesque and the romantic.
Visit the Teatro Romano
(p204) and the nearby Museo
Archeologico (p204) for the
best views, then cross by
the Ponte Pietra for the vast
Roman Arena (p197), now
Verona’s Roman amphitheatre at night the setting for large-scale
open-air operas. From the
Two Weeks in Venice to the late-Gothic Ca’ d’Oro central Piazza dei Signori
and the Veneto palace (p148), which fronts the (p200), with its Renaissance
Grand Canal, and see the arcades, you can reach the
The 14-day itinerary masterpieces of art inside. Then Romanesque church of San
incorporates a day-long stroll to the lovely Renaissance Zeno Maggiore (pp202–3),
canal cruise, a winery tour church of Santa Maria dei the famous Juliet’s balcony at
and a spectacular road trip Miracoli (p146) and the Gothic Casa di Giulietta (p201) and
through the Dolomites. Madonna dell’Orto (p144). the Tombs of the Scaligeri
Explore the alleyways and find (pp200–1), monuments
•
Airport Arrive and depart
a cosy osteria for dinner. honouring Verona’s past
from Marco Polo Airport.
rulers. Finish the day with an
•
Transport Arrange a hire Day 5: Padua evening’s opera in the Arena.
car for pick-up in Padua on See One Week in Venice and the
Day 7. Veneto, Day 4: Padua ( p13). Day 8: Valpolicella Wine Tour
•
Booking ahead Same as for and Lake Garda
One Week in Venice and the Day 6: Brenta Canal In the morning wend your way
Veneto (p13); Verona: Roman From Padua take a leisurely to Lake Garda (pp210–15)
Arena concert tickets. day trip by boat along the through the vineyards of
Brenta Canal (pp186–7), Valpolicella wine country
gliding past elegant country (pp214–15), stopping for
Days 1–3: Venice retreats of the Venetian gentry. refreshment at San Pietro in
See Three Days in Venice Several villas – the Palladian Cariano. In the afternoon head
(pp12–13). Villa Foscari at Malcontenta down to Desenzano (p210) on
and Villa Widmann-Foscari at the shores of Lake Garda for
Day 4: Venice a leisurely 2-hour boat trip
Morning Take a short admiring the gardens and
vaporetto hop from San villas of the shoreline. Take
Zaccaria across to Giudecca a gentle lakeside walk in the
and the peaceful church of evening to the Grotte di
San Giorgio Maggiore (p99) Catullo (p213), birthplace of
and climb its campanile for a the Roman poet Catullus, and
view of Venice and the spend the night in charming
lagoon. Then take a leisurely Sirmione (pp212–13), where
walk along the quayside, you’ll find plenty of bars
indulge in a Bellini cocktail at and shops.
the famous Hotel Cipriani
(p265), or pastries, ice cream Day 9: Sirmione to Vicenza
or a full lunch on the terrace Explore the mighty 13th-
of the Cipriani-owned Harry’s century castle, the Rocca
Dolci (p246). Scaligera in Sirmione (pp212–
13) before driving on to
Afternoon Explore the less Vicenza (pp170–75), whose
visited Cannaregio district most famous son was the
(pp140–49). Walk down The Palladian Villa Foscari on the banks of architect Palladio. Seek out
Fondamenta della Misericordia the Brenta Canal his palazzi on the Contrà
Road (pp220–21), as it twists

and turns from Cortina
d’Ampezzo to Passo Pordoi
(4-hour return journey).
Factor in plenty of time for
admiring the stunning
scenery, and take breaks at
Pieve di Livinallongo or Andraz,
which have restaurants and
cafés. Stay overnight in Pieve
di Cadore (p221).
Day 13: Treviso and the

Euganean Hills
The medieval Rocca Scaligera castle in Sirmione Descend down to Treviso
(p178), second only to Venice
Porti (p172) and his awesome of Canova, containg the plaster for the number of its canals.
Basilica in the Piazza dei casts and models for many Take a pleasant ramble through
Signori (p172), then continue of his sculptures. streets full of frescoed houses
to the Teatro Olimpico (pp174– and look out for radicchio (red
75); the clever perspective of Day 11: Belluno to Pieve di chicory) and pasta e fagioli
the stage set is the work of his Cadore and Cortina (pasta and bean soup) on
pupil Scomozzi. Visit Palladio’s d’Ampezzo restaurant menus. In the after-
villas, Villa Valmarana and Villa Drive to Belluno (p224) and noon explore the picturesque
Rotonda (p173), just outside the climb the campanile of the countryside of the Euganean
city centre, if you have time. Duomo for the extensive vista Hills (p188), where spas, mud
over the Veneto plain. The baths and sulphur treatments
Day 10: Bassano del Grappa scenic drive along the Piave abound, and where the lovely
and Asolo river brings you to the Alpine village of Arquà Petrarca
Head north to the Dolomites chalets of Pieve di Cadore (p188), home of the poet
via Bassano del Grappa (p221) and the birthplace of Petrarch, is located.
(p176), where the key sight the painter Titian, Casa di
is the Ponte degli Alpini, Tiziano (p221). The scenery Day 14: Polesine and
another of Palladio’s designs. becomes more dramatic on the Chioggia
You can sample the grappa way to the resort of Cortina Bypassing Venice, make for
that’s made here, visit the Museo d’Ampezzo (p220), full of skiers the waterways and mud flats
degli Alpini and the Palazzo in winter, its meadows ablaze of Polesine (p189) in the Po
Sturm, where majolica ware with flowers in summer. You’ll Delta, a national park and prime
is on display. Then continue find plenty of bars, restaurants site for birdwatchers and nature
to the foothills of the Dolomites and boutiques here. lovers. You could take a canoe
to the picture-perfect town ride before continuing north to
of Asolo (p177). Take in Villa Day 12: The Dolomite Road the colourful fishing port of
Barbaro to the east of Asolo Allow a full day for driving Chioggia (p189) for a meal
or Possagno to the north, for along the most spectacular of freshly caught seafood, then
the family home and Gypsoteca of Alpine roads, the Dolomite make your way back to Venice.
The winding Dolomite Road with spectacular mountain scenery

Stuttgart
Putting Venice and the Freiburg
Veneto on the Map Mulhouse

Basel Lindau
The Veneto lies in the northernmost sector (Basle)
Bodensee
of Italy, and stretches from the Dolomite
mountains in the north to the flatlands of Zurich Winterthur
the Venetian lagoon in the south. One of the
Lucerne
most prosperous regions of Italy, the Veneto
covers an area of 47,562 sq km (18,364 sq Bern
Altdorf
miles) and has a population of 4.5 million.
Rail and road links with the rest of Europe SWITZERLAND
are excellent, and three international
airports serve the region: Valerio Catullo
Genève Bellinzona
in Verona, Marco Polo on the edge of (Geneva)
the lagoon, and Treviso. Domodossola Lago Lago
Maggiore di Como
Albertville Aosta
Lecco
St Etienne
Brioude
Milano
Al li er
(Milan)
Grenoble Susa
Torino
ne
Valence Monêtier- (Turin)

Rhô
les-Bains
FRANCE Pinerolo
Asti
Montélimar
Genova
Cuneo (Genoa)
Orange
Savona
a nc e
Ve rd on
Avignon
Nîmes
Dur
Impería
Arles
Montpellier Monaco
Nice
Marseille Frejus Ligurian Sea

Toulon
0 kilometres 100
EUROPE 0 miles 100

SWEDEN
North DENMARK
L‘lle-
Sea Rousse
Bastia
UNITED Calvi
KINGDOM NETHERLANDS POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM Corsica
CZECH
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
Ajaccio
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND HUNGARY
FRANCE
SLOVENIA
ROMANIA
Venezia CROATIA
(Venice)
BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZEGOVINA
Bonifacio
MONTE-
NEGRO KOSOVO
I TA LY
MACEDONIA
SPAIN ALBANIA
GREECE
Porto
Mediterranean Torres Olbia
Sea
ALGERIA TUNISIA Alghero
Sardinia
PUTTING VENICE AND THE VENETO ON THE MAP  17
Linz
Ulm St Pölten
GERMANY Wels
München Wien
Landsberg (Munich) (Vienna)
Am Lech
Salzburg
Bregenz
AUSTRIA
Innsbruck Leoben
Inn Graz
Steinach Murau
Brunico Lienz
Villach
Cortina
St Moritz Bolzano d’Ampezzo Maribor
Belluno Udine SLOVENIA

Trento Ljubliana
Zagreb
Lago di Veneto
Bergamo Garda Novo
Treviso Monfalcone
Mesto Sa
Vicenza va
Verona Trieste
Padova CROATIA
(Padua) Venezia Porec Rijeka
(Venice)
Po
Pula
Parma
Bologna Ravenna
La Spezia I T A L Y Rimini
Adriatic Zadar
Lucca
Firenze SAN
Sea
MARINO
Fano
(Florence)
Pisa A rno
Livorno
Ancona
Arezzo
Tev
Siena Civitanova Marche

ere
Perugia
Piombino
(Ti b e r)
Ascoli
Piceno
Giulianova
Viterbo Terni
Pescara
Porto S. L’Aquila
Stéfano
Croatia,
Civitavecchia Greece
Roma Termoli
Tyrrhenian (Rome)
Avezzano
Sea
Manfredonia
Cassino
Key Foggia
Anzio
The Veneto Cerignola
Terracina Benevento
Motorway
Major road
Avellino
Railway
International border Napoli Potenza
(Naples)
Ferry route Salerno
Sicily Sicily
Central Venice
Venice is divided into six ancient administrative districts
or sestieri. The areas described in this book mostly follow
Sant' Alvise
the sestieri boundaries, with San Polo and Santa
P A RCO
Croce combined. Visitors usually G ROG G IA
start with the Piazza San Marco, CPO D.

S ALVISE
Rio
heading for the Doge’s Palace de
lla
S en
sa
and the breathtaking CPLO DELLE
COOPERATIVE
Tre Archi
Basilica, but each district Rio
d el
Batt CANNAREGIO
ello
has its own distinct Crea CAMPO
character, and time GHETTO
NUOVO
Can
spent exploring each ale R io
ola
CPO di
Ca d e ll
nn
Mar cu
SAN ar a
will be fully rewarded. GIOBBE Cr
ea
ég
io
CPLO DELL'
la
Guglie
S an
ANCONETA
o d el
CAMPO
di
PARCO
Ri
SAN
Rio
S A V O R G N A N CAMPO LEONARDO
SAN CAMPO
GEREMIA SAN MARCUOLA
San
Marcuola
an de
Gr San Stae
l
na Riva di
Stazione Ferrovie Ca Biasio
dello Stato
Santa Lucia CAMPO SAN CORTE
ae
SIMEON PROFETA CAZZA
St
Ponte
degli
S ANTA C R OC E
n
Sa
Scalzi
di
Ferrovia
rri
CAMPO CAMPO SAN
To
o
GIACOMO
Ri
NAZARIO
Do
SAURO DELL’ORIO
lle
de
CAMPIELLO
o
DEL CRISTO
Ri
CAMPO D.
SANT’AGOSTIN
CAMPO D. CAMPO S A N P O LO
TOLENTINI SAN STIN
CAMPO
Ri
SAN POLO
o d
Santa Maria
i
Gloriosa
Sa n
Scuola di
P ol
San Rocco
CAMPO
o
SAN ROCCO de
CAMPO an
Gr
CORTE CPLO
GALLO MOSCA SAN
TOMA
n al
CAMPO SAN Ca Sant'
Angelo
PANTALON San Tomà
Rio
di C
CORTE a ’ Fo
San Polo and CONTARINI sc a ri
rita
Santa Croce
ghe
CAMPO
SANTA
ar
The Rialto Bridge di

SM MARGHERITA San CLLO
NUOVO
Rio Ca' Samuele
and markets Rezzonico CAMPO
characterize this Ba rna b
a CPO SAN
SAMUELE
SANTO
STEFANO
i San ca
R i o d CAMPO
area (see p104). DORSODURO S BARNABA de
l
Du
CAMPO
SAN
Pretty stone CORTE CAMPO Ri
o MAURIZIO
DEI
bridges, such CORTE CAMPO VECCHI
SQUERO
CAMPO
te
LARDONA ANGELO lpa

ga Accademia SAN VIDAL
as the one by
E r em i
a
RAFFAELE Rio M
Fondamenta del Stazione Ponte

so
dell'Accademia
e l le
CAMPO D.
Marittima
Tro va
Megio, link streets CARITA

d
Rio
unchanged for
S an
CAMPO
Accademia SAN VIO
centuries. San Basilio
Vio
di
o
San
Ri
CAMPO
SANT'AGNESE
di
Zattere
R io
Santo Spirito
Dorsoduro
The Baroque Santa Maria della Salute
church at the mouth of the Grand Canal
is a striking sight (see p139). Other
highlights of Dorsoduro include the
Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim
art galleries (see pp134–8).
PUTTING VENICE AND THE VENETO ON THE MAP  19
Cannaregio
The Rio Madonna
dell’Orto is one of the
most picturesque
canals in Cannaregio
(see pp142–3).
Orto
CAMPIELLO
PIAVE
Castello
M
ise Fondamente
The Scuola Grande di
CAMPO
SANT'ANTONIO Nuove San Marco, with its ornate
ri
co
it i
Rio
façade dating from the late
a
rd
CAMPO DEL
G e su
tt
di
ia
he
S GESUITI
15th century, is one
cc
le Cat
erin
oa
Ra
lc e
N a
dei
lla
of the architectural
Do
di
de
o
Ca'
CPLO D.
o
highlights in Castello
Ri
Ri
Ri o
PIETA
di
CAMPO
ad
(see p118).
R io
S FELICE
Pan
o s t o li
Ca’ d’Oro Ospedale

ll a
Ap
de
CPLO DEL CAMPIELLO

i
ant
R io
Ca Ca’ d’Oro CASON WIDMAN

i
nt
na
n d ic
Sa
CAMPO DEI
l SANTI APOSTOLI de i
Me
Rio CAMPO S
MARIA NOVA
Gr
dei
Santi
an
a
ri e
ta Giustin
CPLO SANTA Giovanni e Paolo

R io
de
c ca
MARIA NOVA
Be
Rialto
d.
CORTE 2a D. R di
Mercato Li o San
Rio di San
o
MILION M a ri
Ri
an
na
iS CAMPO
Rd
Ponte SAN MARINA

zze
di Rialto CAMPO DELLA

CONFRATERNITA
a
ale
CAMPO SAN R d. S Fra CAMPO D.

zo
nc e
eG
BARTOLOMEO sco CELESTIA

CAMPO
ren
Rialto CAMPO
dell
SAN LIO
a
CAMPO S MARIA CAMPO

San Lo
R i o d . Fa v
SAN FORMOSA SAN CAMPO

ale
SILVESTRO LORENZO S TERNITA

Can
à
it
Ri
CMPO
C A S T E L LO rn
e
o
Te
Rio di
San
orn
di
D. FAVA
ta
c h io
Silvestro CORTE R d. n
S
eG
S Sa
Sa
TEATRO
d . CAMPIELLO
l
do Arsenale
ec
CAMPO
va
an
d e ll
r R DO POZZI
le V
D. GUERRA
Zu
CAMPO
R io
lia
SAN LUCA
ena
n
CAMPO CORTE
A rs
SAN BENETO CAMPO CAMPO VENIER Dársena

Rio dei Greci
ie
MANIN Grande
tà
SAN PROVOLO
P r ocurat
Pie
Basilica CAMPO
BANDIERA CAMPO
SAN MARCO d.
San Marco CAMPO
SAN ZACCARIA E MORO ARSENALE
d.
r s e n a le
’ d i D io
Ri o
Rio
PIAZZA CPLO D.
SAN PIOVAN
’ A
Palazzo
Ca
MARCO
CAMPO San
o
SAN FANTIN Ducale

dell
Ri
Zaccaria
CAMPO
Aresenale
Rio
SAN MOISE CAMPO a

n
Ta
R Sa
SAN
San Marco lla
BIAGIO de
Rio
nM
Giardinetti
oisè
CAMPO DEL San Marco

TRAGHETTO Vallaresso
Gíglio
Salute
Rio del la
For nac e
0 metres 250
San Marco
The Campanile in 0 yards 250
Piazza San Marco is a
familiar landmark in
Key
Venice (see p80). Two of
the city’s other most Major sight
important sights in the
piazza are the Basilica
and the Doge’s Palace
(see pp82–93).
introducing venice and the veneto  21
A PORTRAIT OF
THE VENETO
venice and the veneto form, on the face of it, an unlikely partnership. venice
is a romantic tourist city frozen in time, the veneto a forward-thinking and
cosmopolitan part of modern europe. Yet the commercial dynamism of the
mainland cities is a direct legacy of the old Lady of the Lagoon who, in her
prime, ruled much of the Mediterranean.
Venice is one of the few cities in the published, a rare occurrence on a

world that can truly be described as continent scarred by the aerial
unique. It survives against all the odds, bombing of World War II and the
built on a series of low mud banks demands of postwar development.
amid the tidal waters of the Adriatic More than 14 million visitors a year
and regularly subject to floods. Once succumb to the magic of this
a powerful commercial and naval force improbable city where the past has
in the Mediterranean, Venice has found more meaning than the present.
a new role. Her palazzi have become For all this, Venice has had a price
shops, hotels and apartments, her to pay. So desirable is a Venetian
warehouses have been transformed apartment that rents are beyond the
into museums and her convents means of the Venetians themselves.
have been turned into centres for Many of the city’s apartments are owned
art restoration. Yet little of the by wealthy foreigners who use them
essential fabric of Venice has altered perhaps for two or three weeks
in 200 years. A prewar guide to the city a year – unlit windows at night are
is just as useful today as when it was indicative of absent owners.
Children attending their first communion at Monte Berico, outside Vicenza

Elaborate costume and mask at the Venice Carnival
life into Venice entails reconverting former

industrial sites – the abattoir and the
cotton mill have become university
premises, while a former flour mill has been
transformed into a convention centre.
The Industrious North

The creativity and industry of the people
of the Veneto contradict all the clichés
about the irrationality and indolence of
A canal in Mestre, an urban region in Venice beyond the lagoon the Italian character. For a tiny area, with
a population of 4.5 million, the Veneto
In 1997 the population of the city was is remarkably productive. Many world-
68,600 (compared with 150,000 in 1950), renowned companies have manufacturing
but in 2001 the numbers rose for the first bases in the area, from Jacuzzi Europe and
time since the 1950s. The average age of Zanussi, to Benetton, Olivetti and Iveco
the Venetian population is nearly 50. One Ford. As a result, poverty is rare, and the
reason the city shuts down so early at region has progressed from its prewar
night is that the waiters, cooks and shop agricultural base to a modern manufac-
assistants all have to catch the last train turing and distribution economy.
home across the causeway to Mestre. Unencumbered by the rest of Italy, the
Mestre, by contrast, is a bustling city three northern regions of Piedmont,
of 180,000 inhabitants, with a busy oil Lombardy and Veneto alone would
terminal and an expanding industrial base, qualify for membership of the G10 group
as well as some of the liveliest discos in of the world’s richest nations, a fact
Italy. Governed by the same mayor and exploited by the region’s politicians in
city council, Mestre and Venice have been separatist calls for independence from
described as the ugliest city in the world Rome. Coldshouldering the rest of the
married to the most beautiful. Yet Mestre, Italian peninsula, the Veneto looks east to
founded by Venetians who foresaw a day Slovenia for an example of a small state that
when development land would run out has achieved independence, and north to
in the lagoon, is simply an extension of Germany as a model of political federalism
the same entrepreneurial spirit that and sound economic management.
characterized mercantile Venice in her Despite the ferocity of battles fought
heyday, a spirit that is now typical of the against them down the ages, the people
region as a whole. One move to inject new in the north of the Veneto have a close
Visitors at a craft market in Piazza Erminio Ferretto, Mestre

A PORTRAIT OF THE VENETO  23
Valle di Cadore in the Dolomites, close to the Austrian border
relationship with their Teutonic It is not just the Paduans who treat
neighbours. Today, German signs, food their streets and squares like so many
and language can be easily found in corridors and rooms in one vast
the towns around Lake Garda and communal palace. After 5pm
the Dolomites. Here, the pretty crowds throng Verona’s
Tyrolean farmsteads and onion- Via Mazzini, taking part in
domed churches are a marked the evening stroll, the
contrast to the isolated passeggiata. Against the
fishing communities of backdrop of the Roman
the lagoon, where Venice’s arena or medieval palazzi
maritime heritage is still they argue, swap gossip,
evident. Between these two forge alliances and strike
extremes, however, the cities deals. Younger strollers dress
of the Veneto Plain, with their to impress, while young mothers
wealth of culture, provide a more Traditional Venetian bring their babies out to be
typical view of Italian life. rowing admired. For all their modernity,
the people of the Veneto still
Italian Tradition understand the powerful part played by
Padua is a perfect example of the ancient rituals such as this in cementing
città salotto, a city built like a salon a strong sense of community.
on a human scale, where the
streets are an extension of the
home and where the doorless
Caffè Pedrocchi is treated like
the city’s main square. Here
Paduans come to drink coffee
or write a letter, read a
newspaper or talk to friends.
Just like the salons of old,
the café provides a meeting
place for intellectual discourse
and entertainment. Wedding Ferrari decorated with typical Italian style
The Building of Venice

Venice is built on a patchwork of more than 100 low-
lying islands in the middle of a swampy lagoon. To
overcome these extremely challenging conditions,
early Venetian builders evolved construction techni-
ques unique to the city, building with impermeable
stone supported by larchwood rafts and timber piles.
Campo Santa Maria Mater
This method proved effective and most Venetian
Domini is a typical medieval
buildings are remarkably robust, many having stood square, with its central wellhead
for at least 400 years. By 1500 the city had taken on and its businesslike landward
much of its present shape and only since the 20th façades – decoration on
buildings was usually reserved
century has further building begun to alter the outline.
for the canal façades.
Campaniles often lean

because of compaction of
the underlying subsoil.
Pinewood piles were driven

7.5 m (25 ft) into the ground
before building work could
begin. They rest on the solid
caranto (compressed clay)
layer at the bottom of
the lagoon.
Istrian stone, a type of

marble, was used to create
damp-proof foundations.
Closely packed piles do not rot in

the waterlogged subsoil because
there is no free oxygen, vital for
microbes that cause decay. Bricks Water grilles
The well was the source of the
Sand acting fresh water supply. Rainwater
as a filter was channelled through
pavement grilles into a clay-
lined cistern filled with sand to
act as a filter.
Ornate wellheads, such as this

one in the Doge’s Palace courtyard
photographed in the late 19th century,
indicate the importance of a reliable
water supply for the survival of the
community. Strict laws protected the
purity of the source, prohibiting “beasts,
unwashed pots and unclean hands”.
The Campanile Foundations

When the Campanile in the Piazza San Marco (see p80)
collapsed in 1902, the ancient pilings, underpinning the
98.5-m- (323-ft-) high landmark, were found to be in
excellent condition, after 1,000 years in the ground. Like
the Campanile, all buildings in Venice are supported on
slender oak and pine piles, harvested in the forests of the
northern Veneto and floated downriver to the Venetian
lagoon. Once driven through the lagoon subsoil, they
create an immensely strong and flexible foundation.
Even so, there is a limit to how much weight the piles can
carry – the Campanile, its height having been increased
several times, simply grew too tall and collapsed. When
the tower was rebuilt, timber foundations were again
used, but this time more than double the size. Strengthening the Campanile foundations
Palazzo roofs, built of light, Façades were built of

glazed tiles, had gutters to lightweight rose-coloured bricks,
channel rainwater to the well. sometimes left bare, sometimes
weatherproofed with plaster.
Bridges were often privately

owned and tolls were charged
for their use. Originally, none
had railings, creating a night-
time hazard for the unwary in
the dark streets.
High water level
Low water level
The Campo (Santa Maria Accumulated rubbish

Mater Domini) is regularly removed by
dredging to prevent the
The fabric of Venice is made up of scores canal silting up.
of self-contained island communities,
linked by bridges to neighbouring islands. Sand and clay
Each has its own water supply, church
and bell tower, centred on a campo
(square), once the focus of commercial Caranto is compacted clay
and sand in alternate layers,
life. Palazzi, with shops and warehouses which provides a stable
at ground-floor level, border the campo base for building.
which is connected to workshops and
humbler houses by a maze of side alleys.
The Venetian Palazzo

Venetian houses evolved to meet the needs of a city without
roads. Visitors usually arrived by boat, so the façade facing
the canal was given lavish architectural treatment, while the
landward side, which was accessible from a square or alley, was
rarely so ornate. Most Venetian houses were built with three
storeys, with kitchens located on the ground floor for ready
access to water, or in the attic to enable cooking smells to escape.
Typically, a palazzo served as a warehouse and business premises, Renaissance doorcase
as well as a family home, reflecting the city’s mercantile character. with lion
Byzantine (12th and Façade carvings Byzantine

13th Centuries) feature the owner’s
horseshoe-
coat of arms and the
The earliest surviving private Lion of St Mark. shaped arches
palazzi in Venice date from the
13th century and reflect the
architectural influence of the
Byzantine world. Façades are
recognizable by their ground-
floor arcades and arched open Byzantine roundel,
galleries which run the entire Fondaco dei Turchi
length of the first floor. Simple
motifs feature leaves or palm trees.
Cushion capitals have

only simple motifs.
Palazzo Loredan (see

p68) has an elegant
ground floor arcade and
first floor gallery typical
of a 13th-century
The Byzantine arcades of the Byzantine palace.
Fondaco dei Turchi (built 1225)
Gothic (13th to The interlacing ribs of Trefoil “three leaved”

Mid-15th Centuries) pointed ogee arches window heads are
create a delicate tracery. typically Gothic.
Elaborate Gothic palazzi are
more numerous than any
other style in Venice. Most
famous of all is the Doge’s
Palace (see pp88–93), with Quatrefoil patterns on
elegant arches in Istrian elegant gallery
stone and fine tracery which windows
give the façade a delicate,
lace-like appearance. This Gothic capitals are
style, emulated throughout adorned with foliage,
animals and faces.
the city, can be identified
through its use of pointed
arches and carved
window heads.
Ca’ Foscari (see p70) is a
fine example of the 15th-
century Venetian Gothic
style, with its finely carved Gothic capitals
white Istrian stone façade. (Doge’s Palace)
Renaissance (15th and Bold projecting roof Theatrical masks

16th Centuries) cornices are a feature serve as keystones
of Renaissance to window arches.
Houses of the Renaissance architecture.
period were often built in
sandstone rather than
traditional Venetian brick. The
style was based on Classical
architecture, with emphasis on
harmonious proportions and
symmetry. The decorative
language, borrowing motifs Corinthian pilasters on
from ancient Rome and Greece, the portal to San
typically incorporated fluted Giovanni Evangelista
columns, Corinthian capitals
and semicircular arches. The Venetian door,
a very popular
Palazzo Grimani (see p68) has Renaissance motif, has
lavish stone carving which none a rounded central arch
flanked by narrower
but the wealthy could afford; side openings. This
massive foundations were combination was also
constructed to bear the used for windows.
incredible weight.
Baroque (17th Century) Cherubs and

plumed heads
Venetian Baroque has its are carved into
roots in the Renaissance Recessed windows
Baroque stone and column clusters
Classical style but is far more window heads. create an interesting
exuberant. Revelling in bold play of light and
ornamentation that leaves shadow.
no surface uncarved, garlands, Semicircular
swags, cherubs, grotesque window head of
masks and rosettes animate Palazzo Balbi with
the main façades of buildings two lights and
spandrel decorated
such as the 17th-century
with a circle.
Ca’ Pesaro.
Massive blocks with
deep ridges give solidity
to the lower walls.
Ca’ Pesaro (see p66) is an

example of Baroque
experimentation, with its
flat façade broken into a
three-dimensional stone
pattern of deep recesses
Baroque cartouche and strong projections.
The Venetian House Courtyards took the The upper floor

Attic rooms were place of gardens. housed the family.
The layout of a typical palazzo reserved for servants.
(often called Ca’, short for casa,
or house) has changed little The piano nobile (grand
over the centuries, despite floor), often lavishly
the very different styles of decorated, was used to
external decoration. entertain visitors.
The ground-floor
Offices, used for storing storerooms and offices
business records, evolved were used for the
into libraries. transaction
of business.
The Villas of Palladio

When it became fashionable in the 16th
century for wealthy Venetians to acquire
rural estates on the mainland, many
turned to the prolific architect, Andrea The façade is symmetrical; dovecotes and stables
Palladio (1508–80) for the design in the wings balance the central block.
of their villas. Inspired by ancient
Roman prototypes, described The Room of the Little Dog is
by authors such as Vitruvius and ornate and lavishly decorated
with frescoes by Veronese. Look
Virgil, Palladio provided his clients closely to see the detail of a
with elegant buildings in which spaniel in one of the panels.
the pursuit of pleasure could be
combined with the functions of
a working farm. Palladio’s designs
were widely imitated and
continue to inspire
architects to this day.
The Nymphaeum combines

utility with art; the same spring
that feeds the statue-lined
pool also supplies
water to the villa.
The Villa Barbaro

Palladio and Veronese worked
Key closely to create this splendid villa
Crociera Room of the Little Dog (commissioned in 1555, see p177).
Bacchus Room Room of the Oil Lamp Lively frescoes of false balconies,
doors, windows and rural views
Room of the Tribunal of Love Nymphaeum
create the illusion of greater
Hall of Olympus Non-exhibition space space, perfectly complementing
Palladio’s light, airy rooms.
The portico statues The pedimented pavilion is

Development of the Villa reflect Palladio’s all that survives of Palladio’s
Palladio experimented with myriad study of ancient ambitious design; the main
designs, which he published in his Roman buildings. residence was never built.
influential Quattro Libri (Four Books) Stables and
in 1570, illustrating the astonishing storerooms
fertility of his mind
and his ability to
create endless
variations on the
Classical Roman style. Villa Thiene (1546), now the town hall, Quinto Vicentino
The Hall of Olympus shows Giustiniana,

mistress of the house and wife of Venetian
ambassador Marcantonio Barbaro, with her
youngest son, wetnurse and family pets.
In the Crociera, the cross-shaped central

hall, servants peer round false doors, while
imaginary landscapes blur the boundary
between the house interior and the garden.
The Room of the Oil

Lamp symbolizes virtuous
behaviour; here Strength,
with the club, leans on
Truth, with the mirror.
The Bacchus Room, with

its winemaking scenes and
chimneypiece carved with
the figure of Abundance,
reflects the bucolic ideal of
the villa as a place of good
living and plenty.
The domed cross The façades face

Arcades resemble Palazzo-style Service plan was adapted by the four points of
triumphal arches. central hall wing Palladio from church the compass.
architecture.
Villa Pisani (1555), Montagnana (see p188) Villa Capra “La Rotonda” (1569), Vicenza (see p173)
Styles in Venetian Art

Venetian art grew out of the Byzantine tradition of
iconographic art, designed to inspire religious awe.
Because of the trade links between Venice and
Constantinople, capital of Byzantium, the Eastern
influence lasted longer here than elsewhere in Italy.
Andrea Mantegna introduced the Renaissance style to
the Veneto in the 1460s, and his brother-in-law Giovanni
Bellini became Venice’s leading painter. In the early 16th
century Venetian artists began to develop their own
style, in which soft shading and dramatic use of light
The Last Judgment (12th
distinguishes the works of Venetian masters Titian, century) from Torcello: in
Giorgione, Tintoretto and Veronese. The development the damp climate, mosaics,
of this characteristic Venetian style, which the prolific but not frescoes, were used to
decorate Venetian churches.
lesser-known artists of the Baroque and Rococo periods
continued, can be seen in the chronological arrangement
of the Accademia (see pp134–7).
Byzantine Gothic
Paolo Veneziano is credited
with the move from grand-
scale mosaics to more
intimate altarpieces. His
painting mixes idealized
figures with the hairstyles,
costumes and textiles
familiar to 14th-century
Venetians. The typically The Madonna’s gentle
lavish use of jewel colours face reinforces the
courtly refinement
and gold, symbol of purity,
of Veneziano’s work.
can also be seen in the
work of Veneziano’s The composition and
pupil (and namesake) colours reflect the style
Lorenzo, and in the of the early Byzantine icons
which influenced the artist.
gilded warrior angels
of Guariento (see p183). Arabesque patterns
on the tunics reflect
Moorish influence.
Veneziano’s entire
dazzling polyptych Musicians like
(1325) of which this is the these played at
grand ceremonies
centrepiece, is in the Paolo Veneziano’s Coronation of the Virgin
in San Marco.
Accademia (see p136).
1483–1539 Giovanni Pordenone

1356–72 (active)
Lorenzo Veneziano 1430–1516 Giovanni Bellini 1450– 1480–1528 Palma
1431–1506 Andrea Mantegna 1526 il Vecchio
1338–c.1368 Vittore 1480–1556
Guariento 1415–84 Antonio Vivarini Carpaccio Lorenzo Lotto
1300 1350 1400 1450
1395–1455 Antonio Pisanello 1429–1507 1467–1510 “Il
Gentile Bellini Morto da Feltre”
1400–71 Jacopo Bellini 1477–1510
1321–62 (active) 1432–99 Bartolomeo Vivarini Giorgione
Paolo Veneziano
1441–1507 Alvise Vivarini 1487–1576 Titian
Early Renaissance
Renaissance artists were fascinated by
Classical sculpture and developed new
Illusionistic details
techniques of perspective and shading to fool the eye: the real
give their figures a three-dimensional look. moulding copies the
Using egg-based tempera gave crisp lines painted one.
and bold blocks of colour, but with little
tonal gradation. The Bellini St Benedict
family dominated art in carries the
Renaissance Venice, and Benedictine
Giovanni, who studied book of
monastic rule.
anatomy for greater
accuracy in his work,
portrays the feelings of his Musical
subjects through their cherubs
playing at
facial expressions. the feet of
the Virgin
In Bellini’s 1488 Frari are a Bellini
altarpiece, the Madonna trademark;
is flanked by SS Peter, music was
Nicholas, Benedict and a symbol of
Mark (see p106). order and
Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna and Child with Saints harmony.
High Renaissance The Virgin is placed off-centre,

Oil-based paints, developed contrary to a centuries-old rule,
but Titian’s theatrical use of light
in the late 15th century,
ensures that she remains the
liberated artists. This focus of attention.
medium enabled them to
create more fluid effects, an St Peter looks down at
advantage Titian exploited Venetian nobleman Jacopo
fully. The increasingly Pesaro, who kneels to give
expressive use of light by thanks to the Virgin.
Titian and contemporaries
resulted in a distinctive
Venetian style, leading to
Tintoretto’s masterly
combination of light and
shade (see p110–11).
Titian began this Madonna

in 1519 for the Pesaro family Members of the Pesaro family,
altar in the great Frari church Titian’s patrons, attend the Virgin;
(see p106), after his Assumption Titian’s Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro Lunardo Pesaro, gazing outwards,
was hung above the high altar. was heir to the family fortune.
1712–93 Francesco Guardi

1600–38 Francesco
1500–71 Paris Bordone 1707–88 Francesco Zuccarelli
Maffei
1708–85 Pietro Longhi
1518–94 Tintoretto
1696–1770 Giambattista Tiepolo
1500 1550 1600 1650 1700

1548–1628 Palma
il Giovane 1675–1758 Rosalba Carriera
1581–1644 1676–1729 Marco Ricci
1528–88 Paolo Veronese Bernardo Strozzi 1697–1768 Canaletto
1517–92 Jacopo Bassano 1727–1804 Giandomenico Tiepolo

Gondolas and Gondoliers

Gondoliers are part of the symbolism and mythology of
Venice. Local legend has it that they are born with webbed
feet to help them walk on water. Their intimate knowledge
of the city’s waterways is passed down from father to son
(this is still very much a male preserve). The gondola, with
its slim hull and flat underside, is perfectly adapted to
negotiating narrow, shallow canals. Once essential for
the transport of goods from the markets to the palazzi,
gondolas today are largely pleasure craft and a trip on one
is an essential part of the Venetian experience (see p283).
Squero di San Trovaso (see p133)
It gives an entirely different perspective on the city, is the oldest of Venice’s three
gliding past grand palatial homes, using a form of surviving squeri (boatyards).
transport that dates back over 1,000 years. Here, new wood is seasoned,
while skilled craftsmen build
new gondolas and repair some
of the 400 craft in use.
Traditional dress for

a gondolier is a The gondolier, unusually for an oarsman,
beribboned straw stands upright and pushes on the oar to
hat, striped vest and row the boat in the direction he is facing.
black trousers.
Passengers sit on upholstered
cushions and low stools.
The rowlock (forcola) can

hold the oar in eight
different positions for
steering the craft. The oar has a
ribbed blade.
The asymmetrical shape Continuing a Tradition

of the gondola counteracts Gondolas are hand-crafted from nine
the force of the oar. Without
woods – beech, cherry, elm, fir, larch,
the leftward curve to the
lime, mahogany, oak and walnut –
prow, 24 cm (9.5 inches)
wider on the left than the using techniques established in the
right, the boat would go 1880s. A new gondola takes three
round in circles. months to build and costs £10,000.
Gondola Decoration
Black pitch, or tar, was originally used to
make gondolas watertight. In time this
sombre colour gave way to bright paintwork
and rich carpets, but such displays of wealth
were banned in 1562. Today all except
ceremonial gondolas are black, ornamented
only with their ferro, and a golden hippo
campus (seahorse) on either side. For special
occasions such as weddings, the felze (the
traditional black canopy) and garlands of
flowers appear, while funeral craft, now
seldom seen, have gilded angels. Ceremonial gondolas
Upper Reaches of the

Grand Canal facing
Santa Croce (c.1740s) is
a striking painting by
Bellotto that captures
the everyday life of
gondoliers and their
craft. Since they were
first recorded in 1094,
gondolas have inspired
many writers, artists
and musicians.
Races and parades are part of the fun

during Venice regattas. Professional
gondoliers race in pairs or in teams of
six, using boats specially designed for
competition. Many amateur gondoliers
also participate in the events.
The ferro serves to

balance the weight of
the rower. Its metal
teeth symbolize the six
Seven layers of black lacquer sestieri of Venice,
give the gondola its gloss. beneath a doge’s cap.
The main frame is

built of oak.
More than 280

separate pieces
of wood are used Mooring posts and channel
in constructing markers feature prominently
a gondola. in the crowded waterways of
Venice. The posts may be
topped with a family crest, to
indicate a private mooring.
Funeral gondola approaching San Michele (see p157) Wedding gondola

Venetian Masks and the Carnival

The Venetian gift for intrigue comes into its own
during the Carnival, a vibrant, playful festival
preceding the abstinence of Lent (see p36). Masks
and costume play a key role in this anonymous
world; social divisions are dissolved, participants
delight in playing practical jokes, and anything
goes. The tradition of Carnival in Venice began
in the 11th century and reached its peak of
popularity and outrageousness in the 18th
century. Industrialization left little leisure
Modern Carnival Revellers
time and Carnival fell into decline, but was Since 1979, each year sees more lavish
successfully revived in 1979. costumes and impromptu celebrations.
Laws forbidding the The high spirits of Venetian

wearing of costly lace were women scandalized many
suspended at Carnival. foreign observers.
The Plague Doctor

This sinister Carnival garb is
based on the medieval doctor’s
beaked face-protector and
black gown, worn as a
precaution against plague.
Traditional Mask
Celebration
Carnival in the 18th century
began with a series of balls in
the Piazza San Marco, as in
this fresco on the walls
of Quadri’s famous café in
the square (see p78).
Gambling at the Ridotto

Fortunes were squandered
every night of Carnival at the
state-run casino depicted in
Guardi’s painting (c.1768).
Making a Mask
Many masks, and the characters they represent, are deeply
rooted in Venetian history. Though instantly recognizable by
such features as the beaked nose of the Plague Doctor, each
character can be interpreted in a style that is unique to its
maker, making each piece a true work of art.
Street Entertainers
Musicians and comedians
attract the crowds in the
piazza San Marco.
1 The form of the mask is 2 Papier mâché paste,
first modelled out of clay. Then made from a pulpy fibrous
The satyr-like profile of
this dancer hints that he
a plaster of Paris mould is made mixture of rags and paper
is the devil in disguise. using the fired clay sculpture dipped in glue, is used to
as a pattern. make the mask itself.
3 To shape the mask, papier 4 The size, or glue, used to

mâché paste is pushed into the make the papier mâché gives
plaster mould, then put aside the mask a smooth, shiny
to set. It becomes hard yet surface, similar to porcelain,
flexible as it dries. when it is extracted.
5 An abrasive polish is used 6 Cutting the eyeholes

to buff the surface of the mask, and other features requires
which is then ready to receive the mask maker to have a
the white base coat. steady hand.
7 The features are painted 8 The finished mask is ready

Columbine on the mask and the final to wear at the Carnival or to
A classic Carnival figure, touches are added with a few hang on a wall – the perfect
Columbine wears lace and clever brushstrokes. Venetian souvenir.
an apron, but no mask.
VENICE AND THE VENETO

THROUGH THE YEAR
Venice is a city that can be enjoyed at all of April. Autumn sees the beech, birch
times of the year. Even winter’s mists add and chestnut trees of the region turn
to the city’s romantic appeal, though clear every shade of red and gold. In summer
blue skies and balmy weather make spring the waters of Lake Garda, fed by melted
and autumn the best times to go. This is snow from the Alps, serve to moderate
especially true if you combine a visit to the heat. Winters are mild, allowing
Venice with a tour of the Veneto, where some of the crops typical of the
villa gardens and Alpine meadows put southern Mediterranean, like lemons
on a colourful display from the beginning and oranges, to grow.
festival of Carnival (see p34),

which means “farewell to
meat”, is celebrated through-
out the Veneto. First held in
Venice in the 11th century,
it consisted of two months
of revelry every year. Carnival
fell into decline during the
18th century, but was revived
in 1979 with such success
that the causeway has to be
closed at times to prevent
overcrowding in the city.
Today the 10-day festival
is mainly an excuse for
Winter in the delta of the River Po donning a mask and costume
and parading around the
the open-air procession called city. Various events are
Winter Canto della Stella, literally organized for which the
Once a quiet time of year, “singing to the stars”. tourist offices will have
winter now brings an increasing details, but anyone can buy
number of visitors to the city of January a mask and participate while
Venice, especially over Epiphany (6 Jan). Children of watching the gorgeous
Christmas, New Year and the Veneto get another stocking costumes on show in the
Carnival. Many a day that begins full of presents at Epiphany, Piazza San Marco (see pp78–9).
wet and overcast ends in a blaze supposedly brought by the old Bacanal del Gnoco (last Fri
of colour – the kind of sunset witch Befania (also known as of Carnival). Traditional
reflected off rain-washed Befana, Refana or Berolon). masked procession in Verona,
buildings that Canaletto liked to She forgot about Christmas, with groups from foreign
paint. In the resorts of the according to the story, because countries and allegorical
Venetian Dolomites, popular for she was too busy cleaning floats from the Verona area.
winter sports, the conditions are her house. Good children Masked balls are held in the
perfect for skiing from early traditionally get sweets, but town’s squares.
December throughout the naughty children get cinders
winter months. from her hearth. Images of
the witch appear in cake-
December shop windows, along
Nativity. Churches all over with evil-looking
Venice and the Veneto mount biscuits made to
elaborate Nativity scenes in the resemble charcoal.
days leading up to Christmas.
Attending Mass is a moving February
experience at this time, even for Carnival
non-Christians. (10 days leading
Canto della Stella. In up to Shrove
Desenzano, on Lake Garda (see Tuesday).
p210), Christmas is marked by The pre-Lent Masked revellers at the Carnival
VENICE AND THE VENETO THROUGH THE YEAR  37
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart

Hours Hours
Few days are entirely
10 10
without sunshine
8 8 in Venice and
the Veneto. The
6 6 amount of sunshine
progressively builds
4 4 up to midsummer,
when it is dangerous
2 2
to venture out
0 0 without adequate
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec skin protection.
Marriage with the Sea draws

huge crowds as it has every year
since Doge Pietro Orseolo
established the custom in
AD 1000. Once marked with all
the pomp that the doge and his
courtiers could muster, the
ceremony is not quite as
magnificent today, though its
symbolism remains valid: “We
wed thee, O Sea, in token of
true and lasting dominion”
are the words spoken by a local
dignitary, who then casts a laurel
crown and ring into the sea.
Spring wisteria in Verona’s Giardino Giusti (see p205)
April
Spring Festa di San Marco (25 Apr).
This is the season when many The feast of St Mark, patron
fine gardens all over the Veneto saint of Venice, is marked by
and round Lake Garda come a gondola race across St Mark’s
into their own. As the snow Basin between Sant’ Elena
melts, there is time to catch (see p125) and Punta della
the brief glory of the Alpine Dogana (see p139). On this
meadows and the region’s occasion, it is traditional for
nature reserves, renowned Venetian men to give their
for rare orchids and gentians. wives or lovers a red rose.
Verona holds its annual cherry Celebrating La Sensa, Venice’s annual
market and many other May Marriage with the Sea
towns celebrate the arrival Festa della Sparesea (1 May).
of early crops. A delightful festival and regatta Vogalonga (Sun following La
for the new season’s asparagus Sensa). Hundreds of boats take
March is held on Cavallino, in the part in the Vogalonga (“Long
La Vecia (mid-Lent). Gardone lagoon where the crop is grown. Row”) from the Piazza San
and Gargnano, villages on Lake La Sensa (Sun after Ascension Marco to Burano (see p156) and
Garda (see p210), play host to Day). The ceremony of Venice’s back – some 32 km (20 miles).
festivals of great antiquity, Festa Medioevale del Vino
when the effigy of an old Soave Bianco Soave (16 May).
woman is burned on a bonfire. Sumptuous medieval-style
The so-called Hag’s Trials are celebration of the investiture of
an echo of the darker side the Castillian of Suavia. There is
of medieval life. a procession with a historical
Su e Zo per i Ponti (end Mar or theme, music in the town
early Apr). A marathon-style square, theatrical performances
race in Venice. Participants run and displays of various sports.
or walk through the city’s streets Valpollicellore (9 May). Festival
su e zo per i ponti (up and down Spring produce in the Rialto’s of local wine, with exhibitions,
the bridges). vegetable market in Cellore d’Illasi.
38  introducing venice and the veneto
Average Monthly Temperature (Venice)

°C °F Temperature Chart
25 80 Summers in Venice can
70
be unbearably humid,
20
while winters can
15 60 bring the occasional
snowfall. Temperatures
10 50 in the Dolomites are
considerably lower,
5 40 with snow and freezing
0 32
conditions from
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec November to March.
Summer
Summer brings the crowds to
Venice. Queues for museums
and popular sites are long,
and hotels are frequently fully
booked. Avoid visiting the
city during the school holidays
(mid-Jul–end Aug). Verona, too,
will be full of opera lovers
attending the famous festival,
but elsewhere in the Veneto
it is possible to escape the
crowds and enjoy the
spectacular countryside.
June
Sagra di Sant’Antonio (13 Jun).
The Feast of St Anthony has
been celebrated in Padua for
centuries. The day is marked by
a lively fair in Prato della Valle Boats for hire at Sirmione on Lake Garda
(see p187).
Biennale (Jun–Oct). The world’s July displays on Lake Garda at Pal
biggest contemporary art Opera Festival (Jul–Sep). del Vo. Boats are illuminated
exhibition takes place in Venice Verona’s renowned opera and decorated, and the catch
in odd-numbered years festival overlaps with the is cooked and distributed to
(see p260). equally famous Shakespeare guests and participants.
Festa di Santi Pietro e Paolo Festival, providing culture
(end Jun). The feast day of SS lovers with a feast of music, August
Peter and Paul is celebrated in drama, opera and dance in the Village Festivals. The official
many towns with fairs and stimulating setting of the holiday month is marked by
musical festivals. Roman Arena and the city’s local festivals throughout
La 500 x 2 churches (see pp260–61). the Veneto, giving visitors
(third Sun in Jun). Adriatic Festa del Redentore (third Sun the chance to sample food
classic sailing regatta starting in Jul). The city of Venice and wines and see local
from Caorle (see p179). commemorates its deliverance costume and dance. Around
from the plague of 1576. An Lake Garda these are often
impressive bridge of boats accompanied by firework
stretches across the Giudecca displays and races in boats
Canal so that people can walk like large gondolas.
to the Redentore church to Palio di Feltre (first weekend
attend Mass. On the Saturday in Aug). Medieval games, horse
night, crowds line the Zattere or racing and feasts commemorate
row their boats into the lagoon Feltre’s inclusion in the Venetian
to watch a spectacular firework empire (see p225).
display (see p158). Festa dell’Assunta (8–16 Aug).
Exhibit by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama at Sardellata al Pal del Vo (late Spectacular nine-day
the Biennale Jul). Moonlit sardine-fishing celebration in Vittorio Veneto
venice and the veneto through the year  39
Average Monthly Rainfall (Venice)

MM Inches Rainfall Chart
80 The mountains and sea
3 combine to give Venice
60 and the Veneto higher
rainfall than is normal
2
40 in the rest of Italy, with
the possibility of rain
20 1 on just about any day
of the year. The driest
months are February
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec and July.
(see p225). The colourful

festivities feature dance, poetry,
cabaret and music competitions.
Autumn
Expect to see a profusion of
market stalls selling a huge
range of wild fungi as soon as
the climatic conditions are right
for them to grow. Local people
go on expeditions to harvest
them, and mushroom dishes will
also feature high on the restaur
ant menus along with game.
Another feature of autumn is Grapes ripening in the Bardolino area
the grape harvest, a busy time
of year in the wineproducing starts with an historic pageant November
regions of Soave, Bardolino and down the Grand Canal. Festa della Salute (21 Nov).
Valpolicella (see pp214–15). Partita a Scacchi (second Deliverance from the plague is
weekend in Sep, in even- celebrated with the erection of
numbered years). Marostica’s a pontoon bridge across the
chequerboard main square Grand Canal to La Salute (see
hosts a human chess game in p139). Venetians light candles
medieval costume (see p176). in the church to give thanks
Palio dei Dieci Comuni (first Sun for a year’s good health.
in Sep). The liberation of the
town of Montagnana is Public Holidays
celebrated with a pageant
and horse race (see p188). New Year (1 Jan)
Epiphany (6 Jan)
October Easter Monday (variable)
Bardolino Grape Festival (first Liberation Day (25 Apr)
weekend in Oct). A festival that Labour Day (1 May)
celebrates the completion of
Republic Day (2 Jun)
the harvest.
Festa del Mosto (first weekend in Assumption (15 Aug)
Oct). The Feast of the Must on All Saints (1 Nov)
Medieval costume at Montagnana’s Palio Sant’Erasmo, the marketgarden Immaculate
dei Dieci Comuni island in the lagoon (see p153). Conception (8 Dec)
Venice Marathon (mid-Oct). Christmas Day (25 Dec)
September This run starts on the Brenta Santo Stefano (26 Dec)
Venice Film Festival (early Sep). Riviera and finishes in Venice.
The International Film Festival
attracts an array of film stars and
paparazzi to the Lido (see p161).
Regata Storica (first Sun in Sep).
Gondoliers and other boatsmen
compete in a regatta which Rowers practising for the Regata Storica
introducing venice and the veneto  41
THE HISTORY OF VENICE

AND THE VENETO
the winged lion of St Mark is a familiar sight to anyone travelling in the veneto.
Mounted on top of tall columns in the central square of vicenza, verona,
chioggia and elsewhere, it is a sign that these cities were once part of the
proud venetian empire. the fact that the lion was never torn down as a hated
symbol of oppression is a credit to the benign nature of venetian authority.
In the 6th century AD, Venice had been no anyone was to devise until the 19th
more than a collection of small villages in a century, and it stood the city and its
swampy lagoon. By the 13th century she empire in good stead until the bumptious
ruled Byzantium and, in 1508, the pope, figure of Napoleon Bonaparte dared
the kings of France and Spain and the Holy to intrude in 1797. But by then Venice
Roman Emperor felt compelled to join had become a byword for decadence
forces to stop the advances of this powerful and decline, the essential mercantile
empire. As the League of Cambrai, their instinct that had created and sustained
combined armies sacked the cities of the the Serene Republic for so long
Veneto, including those such as Vicenza having been extinguished. As though
which had initially sided with the League. exhausted by 1,376 years of independent
Venetian territorial expansion was halted, existence, the ruling doge and his
but she continued to dominate the eastern Grand Council simply resigned, but
Mediterranean for another 200 years. their legacy lives on, to fascinate visitors
The Venetian system of government with its extraordinary beauty and
came as close to democracy as remarkable history.
A map dated 1550, showing how little Venice has changed in nearly 500 years
Tintoretto’s Triumph of Doge Nicolò da Ponte (1580–84), Sala del Maggior Consiglio, Doge’s Palace
Roman Veneto
The Veneto takes its name from the Veneti, the pre-Roman
inhabitants of the region, whose territory fell to the superior
military might of the Romans in the 3rd century BC. Verona
was then built as a base for the thrusting and ambitious
Roman army which swept northwards over the Alps to
conquer much of modern France and Germany. While the
Roman Empire remained intact the Veneto prospered, but
the region bore the brunt of fierce and destructive barbarian Horsemen in Roman Army
attacks that began in the 4th century AD. Riddled by Goths, Huns and Vandals served as
in-fighting and the split between Rome and Constantinople, mercenaries in the Roman cavalry
but later turned
the imperial administration began to crumble. to plunder.
Horse-Drawn Carriage
Finds from the region show the
technological skills and luxurious
lifestyles of the inhabitants.
The Forum
(market square)
The Arena was completed in

AD 30 to entertain the troops
stationed in Verona. It could
hold 30,000 spectators.
Verona
Chariot Racing
A pre-Roman chariot Securely fortified and moated by the
in Adria’s museum River Adige, Roman Verona was divided
(see p189) suggests into square blocks (insulae or “islands”).
the Romans adopted The Forum has since been filled in by
the sport from their medieval palaces, but several landmarks
predecessors. are still discernible today (see p194).
87 BC Catullus, Roman love poet, born in Verona
6th century BC Veneto region occupied 89 BC The citizens of Verona, Padua,

by the Euganei and the Veneti Vicenza, Este and Treviso granted full
rights of Roman citizenship
600 BC 500 400 300 200 100
3rd century BC Veneto conquered

by the Romans. The Veneti and
Euganei adopt Roman culture and
lose their separate identities
Catullus (87–c.54 BC)
THE HISTORY OF VENICE AND THE VENETO  43
Hunting in
the Lagoon Where to See
The wild lagoon, future Roman Veneto
site of Venice, attracted
fishermen and huntsmen Verona (p194) has the highest
in pursuit of game and concentration of Roman sites in
wildfowl. It also became a the region; the Archaeological
place of refuge during Museum (p204) is full of fine
raids by Huns and Goths. mosaics and sculptures, and
Castelvecchio (p195) has some
very rare early Christian glass and
silver. Good museums can also
be found at Este (pp188–9), Adria,
Treviso (p178) and Portogruaro,
situated near Concordia (p179).
The theatre,
built in the
1st century
BC, is still used
for open-air
performances
(see p260).
This fine mosaic of a

nightingale in Treviso Museum
is from Trevisium, the town’s
Roman predecessor.
Two arches of the
Ponte Romano (see
pp204–5) survive intact.
Gladiators
Bloodthirsty citizens
flocked to the glad-
iatorial contests
in which prisoners
of war, criminals
and Christian
martyrs were
put to the sword.
Verona’s Arena is an
awe-inspiring home for the
city’s opera festival, despite
the loss of its outer wall
to earthquakes.
AD 100 The Arena, Verona’s 401 Led by Alaric, the Goths invade northern Italy;
amphitheatre, is built. Near the Veneto bears the brunt of the attack
Eastern merchants bring
360 The Roman Empire’s northern borders under
Christianity to the region Fierce
attack from Slavic and Teutonic tribes
Visigoth
AD 1 100 200 300 400
313 Constantine the Great grants 410 Alaric
official status to Christianity 395 Roman succeeds in
59 BC Livy, Roman
Empire splits sacking Rome
historian, born in Padua 331 Constantinople takes over from Rome
into eastern itself, but dies the
as capital of the Roman Empire
and western same year
halves
44  inTRoDucinG VEnicE AnD ThE VEnETo
The Birth of Venice

Fleeing the Goths, who were systematically
looting and burning their way southwards to
Rome, the people of the Veneto sought refuge
among the wild and uninhabited islands of their
marshy coast. There they formed villages, and
from the ashes of the Roman past rose the city of
Venice (founded, as tradition has it, in AD 421).
Exploiting its easily defended maritime position,
important trade links with Byzantium were
created. Venice proclaimed its brash self- Early Venetian Settlements
confidence by brazenly stealing the relics of The Rialto Bridge (from Rivo Alto, or
“high bank”) marks the spot of one
St Mark the Evangelist from Alexandria, in Egypt. of many early settlements.
San Marco as it was before

14th-century rebuilding.
The First Crusade (1095–9)

Venice cunningly used the Crusades
to her advantage, gaining valuable
trading rights in captured cities
such as Antioch and Tripoli.
The Arrival of the Relics
This 13th-century mosaic from the
façade of San Marco depicts the body of
The Bishop of Altino St Mark being carried into the newly built
The cathedral at Torcello was basilica for reburial in AD 832. By securing
founded in AD 639, when the relics of such an important saint,
Altino’s bishop led a mass Venice signalled its ambition to be
exodus to the lagoon island, considered one of the foremost cities
fleeing Lombardic invaders. in Christendom, on a par with Rome.
421 Venice founded, traditionally – and Charlemagne

570 The Lombards’ first
conveniently – on St Mark’s Day, 25 April (742–814)
invasion of northern Italy;
beginning of mass migration 726 First
452 Attila the Hun invades Italy from the cities of the Veneto documented
and plunders the Veneto to lagoon islands doge, Orso Ipato
400 500 600 700 800
639 Torcello 697 According 774 Charlemagne

So-called to legend, invited to drive
“Attila’s throne” cathedral founded
Paoluccio Lombards from Italy
in Torcello 552 Totila the Goth Anafesta 800 Charlemagne is crowned
invades Italy and destroys is elected first Holy Roman Emperor by
many towns in the Veneto first doge Pope Leo III
the history of venice and the veneto  45
Diplomacy Where to See

Strategically placed
between the powers of Early Venice
Rome and Byzantium, The cathedral at Torcello (pp154–
Venice was continually 5) is the oldest surviving building
exerting her powers of in Venice, and the Basilica San
diplomacy. Here, Doge Marco (pp82–7) has many period
Ziani receives Holy treasures. Early Venetian coins are
Roman Emperor in the Correr Museum (p81). The
Frederick I, whom he original statue of St Theodore is
reconciled with Pope in the Doge’s Palace courtyard.
Alexander III in 1177.
Looting the remains of

St Mark from Alexandria
was seen as an act of
anti-Moslem
piety.
Torcello cathedral’s jewel-like

mosaics (11th century) are
masterpieces of Byzantine art,
probably the work of craftsmen
from Constantinople.
The doge and his

entourage are
wearing Byzantine-
style caps and robes.
St Theodore
The Byzantine emperor The Pala d’Oro, St Mark’s
nominated Theodore as the 10th-century altarpiece, shows
patron saint of Venice. Venice merchants bringing St Mark’s
chose St Mark instead, an act of plundered relics to Venice.
defiance against Byzantine rule.
814 First Venetian coins minted; work 1171 Six districts (sestieri) of Venice established 1173 First Rialto Bridge built
begins on first Doge’s Palace
1120 Verona’s 1177 Emperor Frederick I
832 First Basilica San San Zeno Barbarossa agrees to peace
Marco completed 1095 First Crusade; Venice church begun terms with Pope Alexander III
provides ships and supplies
900 1000 1100 1200
1128 First street lighting in Venice
888 King Berengar I of Italy 1202 Venice diverts
chooses Verona as his seat 1000 Doge Pietro Orseolo rids the the Fourth Crusade
Adriatic of pirates, commemorated to its own ends,
828 Venetian merchants steal body by the first Marriage of Venice Lighting a the conquest
of St Mark from Alexandria to the Sea ceremony street lamp of Byzantium
The Growth of the Empire

During the Middle Ages, Venice expanded in power
and influence throughout the eastern Mediterranean,
culminating in the conquest of Byzantium in 1204. At
home, in contrast to the fractional strife of most of the
area, Venice enjoyed a uniquely ordered administration
headed by the doge, an elected leader whose powers Bocca di Leone
Such letterboxes were used to
were carefully defined by the Venetian constitution.
report crimes anonymously and
Real power lay with the Council of Ten and the were often abused (p93).
2,000 or so members of the Grand Council,
from whose number the doge and his
advisers were elected.
Doge Enrico
Dandolo boldly
led the attack on
Constantinople,
despite being
over 90 and
completely blind.
Cangrande I
Founder of the Veronese Scaligeri
dynasty (see p213), Cangrande I
(“Big Dog”) typified the totalitarian
rule of most Italian cities.
Siege of
Constantinople
Marco Polo
Facing financial difficulties,
in China
Renowned
the leaders of the Fourth
Venetian Crusade agreed to attack
merchant, Marco the capital of Byzantium,
Polo (see p147) as payment for warships
spent over 20 years supplied by Venice. The city
at the court of fell in 1204, leaving Venice
Kublai Khan. ruler of Byzantium.
1204 Conquest of Constantinople; 1260 Scaligeri 1309

Venice’s plunder includes four family rules Present 1325 The names of
bronze horses Verona Doge’s Venice’s ruling families
1222 University of 1271–95 Marco Polo’s
Palace are fixed and inscribed
Padua founded journey to China begun in the Golden Book
1200 1250 1300 1350

1284 Gold ducats first 1310 The Venetian 1348–9
minted in Venice Constitution is passed; Black Death
1301 Dante, exiled from Council of Ten formed plague kills
The Four his native Florence, is 1304–13 Giotto paints the half Venice’s
Horses of San welcomed to Verona by Scrovegni Chapel frescoes population
Marco the Scaligeri rulers (pp184–5) in Padua
Where to See
Imperial Venice
The Doge’s Palace combines
ceremonial splendour and
the grimmer business of
imprisonment and torture
(pp88–93). Aspects of the
constitution are on display
in the Correr Museum (p81).
A bocca di leone survives
on the Zattere (p133).
Decapitation
Doge Marin Falier was
beheaded in 1355 for
plotting to become absolute
ruler of Venice. His execution
was a warning to future doges.
Imperial treasures
and ancient buildings
were lost when the
900-year-old city was
looted and burned.
Electing the Doge

This pointer was used
for counting votes
during dogal Many doges are commemorated
elections, using a by Renaissance-style monuments
convoluted system in the church of Santi Giovanni e
designed to prevent Paolo (pp120–21).
candidates bribing
their way to power.
Troops scaled the fortifi-

cations from galleys moored
against the city walls.
Queen of Cyprus
Venice shamelessly
gained Cyprus in 1489
by arranging for Meetings of the Grand
Caterina Cornaro, from Council, dominated by the
one of Venice’s noblest merchant class, were held in the
families, to marry the Sala del Maggior Consiglio (p91)
island’s king, and then in the Doge’s Palace.
poisoning him.
Battle of 1518 Titian’s

Chioggia Assumption
1489 Cyprus ceded to hung in Frari
Venice by Queen (p106)
Caterina Cornaro
1400 1450 1500

1380 Battle of Chioggia: 1453 Constantinople 1508 Andrea
Venice defeats Genoa falls to the Turks; Palladio,
1430 Giovanni
to win undisputed Venice’s empire architect, born
Bellini born,
maritime supremacy reaches its zenith in Padua
greatest of the
in the Adriatic and artistic family
Mediterranean Titian (1487–1576)
The Queen of the Adriatic

By the 16th century, Venice held a monopoly on
Mediterranean trade and had colonized the whole of Sails were a
northeastern Italy, from the Adriatic to the Alps. Keeping hazard in battle,
hold of such a vast empire meant being in a constant state but could be
utilized for a
of war. The League of Cambrai, dedicated to destroying swift escape.
Venice, was formed in 1508 by the most powerful men in
Europe, Pope Julius II and the Holy Roman Emperor
Maximilian. Their troops sacked the cities of the Veneto,
but the region remained loyal to Venice’s relatively
benign rule. Far more of a threat were the Turks.
They carved out the Ottoman Empire from 1522,
driving Venice from the eastern Mediterranean
and eventually taking Cyprus in 1570.
Oarsmen sat in cramped

conditions with less than
60 cm (2 ft) of space; each
Galileo’s Telescope team was led by a foreman.
Galileo, professor at Padua
University from 1592 to 1610,
demonstrated his telescope to
Doge Leonardo Donà in 1609.
Battle of Lepanto
Venice led the combined
forces of the Christian world
in this bloody victory over
the Turks, fought in 1571.
1514 Fire 1516 Jews confined to the Venetian Ghetto. 1585 First 1592 Galileo
destroys the End of League of Cambrai wars performance at appointed
original timber 1570 Cyprus lost Vicenza’s Teatro professor of
1518 to the Turks
Rialto Bridge Olimpico (p174) mathematics at
Tintoretto 1528 Paolo
Veronese born Padua University
born
1500 1550 1600
1571 Battle of Lepanto: 1595 Shakespeare’s
1501 Doge Leonardo 1529 Death of decisive victory for the Romeo and Juliet
Loredan, great Luigi da Porto of western fleet, led by
diplomat, begins Vicenza, author of Venice, over the Turks 1577 Palladio designs the Redentore
20-year rule the story of church (p158) to mark the end of the
Romeo and Juliet plague that took 51,000 lives
Celebrating the
End of the Plague Where to See
More deadly than any Maritime Venice
opposing army, plague hit
Venice in 1575 and again in The triumph of Venice over
1630, carrying off Titian the sea is celebrated in the
among its 100,000 victims. Museo Storico Navale (p122).
For a glimpse of the extensive
and disused Arsenale shipyard
in Castello, take a trip on
vaporetto route No. 4.1, 4.2,
5.1 or 5.2 (p284).
The Venice Arsenale

Venice was at the forefront
of maritime construction.
Her heavily defended
shipyards were capable
of turning out warships
at the rate of one a day.
To synchronize
the oarsmen, a Arsenale lions, plundered
drummer beat from Piraeus in 1687, guard the
time at the stern. forbidding gates of the Arsenale
shipyard (p123).
Venetian Trireme
The trireme was so Venetian naval supremacy was
named because the based on the swift and highly
oars were grouped in manoeuvrable trireme, used to Santa Maria della Salute
threes. Each trireme sink enemy ships by means of its was built in thanksgiving
had up to 150 oars. pointed battering ram and its for deliverance from the
bow-mounted cannon. 1630 plague (p139).
Monteverdi 1718 Venetian

(1567–1643) 1678 Elena Piscopia receives 1703 Vivaldi maritime empire
doctorate from Padua University, the joins La Pietà as ends with the
first woman in the world ever to be musical director surrender of
awarded a degree (p182) Morea to the Turks
1650 1700
Elena Piscopia
1613 Monteverdi (1646–84) 1708 In a bitter
appointed 1630 Plague strikes Venice 1669 Venice
loses Crete to winter, the lagoon
choirmaster at again, reducing the city’s freezes over and
Basilica San Marco population to 102,243, its the Turks
Venetians can walk
smallest for 250 years to the mainland
Glorious Decadence
No longer a major power, 18th-century Venice
became a byword for decadence, as aristocratic
Venetians frittered away their inherited wealth in
lavish parties and gambling. All this crumbled in
1797, when the city was besieged by Napoleon, who
demanded the abdication of the doge. Napoleon
granted the city to his opponents, the Austrians, The State-Run Casino
whose often authoritarian rule drove many The notorious Ridotto, open to
people of the Veneto to join the vanguard of anyone wearing a mask, closed in
the revolutionary Risorgimento. This movement, 1774, as many Venetians had
bankrupted themselves.
led in Venice by Daniele Manin, was dedicated
to creating a free and united Italy, a
Gambling fever so gripped
dream not fully realized until 1870, the city that gaming tables
four years after Venice was freed were set up between the
from Austrian rule. columns in the Piazza.
Caffè Pedrocchi
Several intellectuals who had
used this lavishly decorated café
(see p182) in Padua as their base
were executed for leading a revolt
against Austrian rule in 1831.
Imperial Ritual
Canaletto’s St Mark’s Basin
on Ascension Day (c.1733)
captures the empty
splendour of Venice on the
The Horses of St Mark
Among the art treasures
eve of her demise. The doge’s
looted by Napoleon gold and scarlet barge has
were the Four Horses of St been launched for the
Mark, symbols of Venetian annual ceremony of Venice’s
liberty. The horses were Marriage to the Sea.
returned in 1815.
1720 Caffè Florian 1755 Casanova 1789 The Dolomites

opens in Venice 1752 Completion of sea imprisoned in named after Déodat de
(p250) walls protecting the Doge’s Palace Dolomieu (1750–1801)
lagoon entrances
1725 Casanova 1775 Caffè Quadri (p250)
born in Venice opens in Venice Déodat de Dolomieu
1720 1770
1790 Venetian opera house, La Fenice, opens
1757 Canova, Neo-
Classical sculptor, 1797 Napoleon invades the Veneto; Doge Lodovico
born in Venice Manin abdicates; Venetian Republic ends
1798 Napoleon grants Venice and its territories to his
Café Florian Austrian allies in return for Lombardy
Antonio Vivaldi
(1678–1741) Where to See
Fashionable Venetians 18th-Century Venice
flocked to hear the red-
haired priest’s latest Vivaldi concerts are a regular
compositions, performed feature at La Pietà church (p116).
by the orphan girls of La Paintings by Guardi, Canaletto
Pietà. Vivaldi’s most and Longhi capture the spirit
famous work, The Four of the age and are found in the
Seasons (1725), was a Accademia (pp134–7), Correr
great success Museum and Ca’ Rezzonico (p130).
throughout Europe. A beautifully crafted model of the
Bucintoro and its original banner
are displayed at The Museo
Storico Navale (p122).
The Bucintoro, the doge’s Sumptuary laws, passed in 1562,

ceremonial barge decreed that all Venetian gondolas
must be black, to prevent lavish
displays of wealth.
Fortunes were spent on

opulent wigs, jewels and
clothing for costume balls
and the theatre. This high-
heeled shoe is in the Correr
Museum (p81).
The comic antics of Harlequin

and Pantaloon at La Fenice
No Longer an Island (p97) ensured the popularity
Venice lost its isolation in 1846, when a causeway joined the of the theatre with Venetians.
city to the mainland and the Italian rail network.
1804 Napoleon crowned King of

Daniele Manin 1859 Second War of Italian
Italy and takes back Venice (1804–57) Independence; after Battle of
1814–15 Austrians drive French Solferino, Red Cross founded
from Venice; Congress of Vienna 1861 Vittorio Emanuele
returns the Veneto to Austria crowned King of Italy
1820 1870
1818 Byron 1846 Venetian rail causeway 1853 Ruskin publishes
swims up the links the city to the mainland The Stones of Venice
Grand Canal for the first time
1849 Hunger and 1866 Venice and
1848 First Italian War of disease force Venetian Veneto freed from
Lord Byron Independence; Venice revolts rebels, led by Daniele Austrian rule
against Austrian rule Manin, to surrender
Venice in Vogue
From being an introverted and unchanging city,
Venice developed with remarkable speed. The
opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 brought new
prosperity; a new harbour was built for ocean-
going ships and Venice became a favourite
embarkation point for colonial administrators
and rich Europeans travelling east. The fashion for
sea-bathing and patronage by wealthy socialites Peggy Guggenheim (1898–1979)
reawakened interest in the city, and the founding of Patron of the avant garde, Peggy
the Biennale attracted Europe’s leading artists, who Guggenheim brought her out-
standing art collection (see p138)
expressed their enthusiasm for the to Venice in 1949.
city in novels, paintings and music.
The Hotel Excelsior’s
Moorish exterior is
distinctive.
Bathing
huts,
designed for
modesty in
the 1920s, are
still a feature
of the Lido.
Igor Stravinsky (1882–1971)

Along with Turgenev, Diaghilev
and Ezra Pound, Stravinsky was
one of many émigrés enchanted
by the magic of Venice.
The Lido
From the turn of the century, grand
hotel developments along the
Hotel Excelsior sandy Adriatic shore turned the
When it was built in 1907, Lido into Europe’s most stylish
the Hotel Excelsior (see seaside resort. The island has since
p234) was the world’s given its name to bathing
largest hotel. establishments the world over.
1902 Collapse of 1912 Opening of

campanile in Piazza rebuilt campanile;
1883 Wagner dies in Palazzo Richard Wagner San Marco Thomas Mann writes
Vendramin-Calergi (1813–83) Death in Venice
1870 1880 1890 1900 1910
1889 Poet Robert

1881 Venice becomes Browning dies in 1903 Patriarch Sarto
Ca’ Rezzonico 1895 First
second-largest port in of Venice becomes
Biennale art
Italy after Genoa Pope Pius X
exhibition
The International
Exhibition of Where to See Turn-
Modern Art of-the-Century Venice
Venice became a
showcase for all that Regular vaporetto services link
was new in world art Venice to the Lido (p160), with its
and architecture when deluxe hotels, sports facilities and
the Biennale was beaches. The pavilions of the
launched. The first Biennale (p125) are usually only
exhibition, in 1895, open during the exhibition. A lift
showed work by carries visitors to the top of the
Renoir and Monet. rebuilt Campanile (p80) for
panoramic views of Venice.
The manicured
beaches of the Lido
became a catwalk for
style-conscious
holidaymakers.
San Michele, the cemetery isle

(p157), is the last resting place
of eminent foreigners, such as
Serge Diaghilev, Igor Stravinsky
and Ezra Pound.
Residenze des Bains on the

The Campanile Lido (p160), was formerly an
After the appearance of exclusive hotel built in 1900 and
ominous warning cracks, the frequented by famous people. It
1,000-year-old bell tower has been converted into private
crashed to the ground in apartments, but retains its Art
1902. It was rebuilt within a Deco features.
decade (see p80).
German 1954 Britten’s Turn of the 1959 Patriarch

1917 Work starts on 1926 Mestre travel Screw premièred in Venice Roncalli
constructing the is formally poster elected Pope
port of Marghera granted from 1936 1943–5 Mussolini John XXIII
town status rules a puppet state,
the Salò Republic
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1960 Venice
1932 First Venice 1951 Stravinsky’s The Rake’s airport opens
1918 Fierce fighting in Film Festival Progress premièred in Venice
mountain passes of
1956 Cortina d’Ampezzo
the Veneto in the last 1931 Venice is linked to the hosts Winter Olympics Olympic torch runner
weeks of World War I mainland by a road causeway
Venice Preserved
In November 1966 Venice was hit by the worst
floods in its history, sparking worldwide concern for
the future of the city’s delicate and decaying fabric.
Major steps have since been taken to protect Venice
and its unique heritage, though many difficult issues
remain. However, several of the region’s great craft
Boating Traditions
traditions are kept alive in the work of local artisans
The proud boating traditions of this
and the allure of Venice, set in its watery lagoon, waterborne city can be seen in the many
is as compelling as ever. regatas held during the summer months.
Venice as Film Set

Venice has served as the backdrop
to countless films, including Fellini’s
Casanova (1976) and Indiana Jones
and the Last Crusade (1989).
The Regata Storica, held in

September, is an annual trial of
strength and skill for gondoliers.
Tourism
Venetian regattas are part of a rich
tradition that enhances the city’s
attraction to tourists, providing
After the Flood
employment for many on the
During the 1966 floods, the
waters rose nearly 2 m mainland as well as in Venice itself.
(6 ft). Great damage was However, since the number of daily
done by fuel oil, washed visitors often exceeds the city’s
out of broken tanks. It is population, some complain that
now banned from the city tourism has turned Venice from a
in favour of gas. living city into one vast museum.
1978 Patriarch 1988 First

1966 Floods cause Luciani of experimental
devastation in Venice. 1973 Laws passed to Venice elected Carnival stage of MOSE, 1992 Venice
UNESCO launches its reduce pollution, Pope John reveller the lagoon Film Festival
Save Venice appeal Paul I, but dies flood barrier, is celebrates
subsidence and
33 days later completed 60 years
flooding
1960 1975 1990
1968 Protestors prevent part of the 1979 Venetian 1983 Venice 1992 Venice
lagoon being drained to extend Carnival is revived officially stops rocked by
Marghera’s industrial zone sinking after corruption
Visconti and Dirk extraction of scandals. Metro
1970 Luchino Visconti’s Bogarde on the set underground network beneath
film Death in Venice of Death in Venice water prohibited lagoon proposed
Restoration in Venice
One positive result of the 1966
floods was a major international
appeal for funds to pay for the
cleaning of historic buildings,
statues and paintings. Funds
raised are coordinated under
the auspices of UNESCO, with
offices in Venice.
Benetton
The famous clothing firm,
originating in Treviso,
represents the modern face
of Veneto industry.
Venice plays host to over

14 million visitors every year.
Restorers learn how to repair

and conserve fragile works
of art at a European centre
for conservation on San
Servolo (pp158–9).
Glass Blowing
This age-old tradition, still
alive on Murano, contributes
to the economy.
The Acqua Alta

High tides can cause floods
and paralyze the city. Contro-
versial plans for a flood barrier
across the lagoon have faced
continual delays. The problem
was exacerbated by subsidence
due to the extraction of under- Madonna dell’Orto (p144) was
gound gas and water (now restored with support from the
restricted). There have also been Venice in Peril Fund, which raises
calls for controls on the motor- funds for the city’s conservation.
boats that cause erosion.
1994 Voters decide against a divorce 2010 Floods in Vicenza and Paduan plains in November cause terrible
between Venice and Mestre, which 2006 Romano damage; half of Vicenza was under water
share a mayor and city council Prodi approves
construction of 2016 UNESCO threatens to place Venice on endangered list
1995 Centenary of the lagoon unless it bans cruise ships
Biennale Exhibition flood barrier
2005 2020
2002 Construction 2008 The 2017 Planned completion

begins on the fourth fourth bridge of the flood barrier
bridge over the over the Grand
Grand Canal Canal opens 2013 Venice pulls out of European Capital
of Culture 2019 bid, the mayor stating that The fourth bridge over the
1932–1992 Venice Film Festival poster it already is a capital of culture Grand Canal
View over Venice rooftops

Venice area
by area
Venice at a Glance 58–59

A View of the Grand Canal 60–75
San Marco 76–99
San Polo and Santa Croce 100–111
Castello 112–125
Dorsoduro 126–139
Cannaregio 140–149
The Lagoon Islands 150–161
58  VeniCe AReA By AReA
Venice at a Glance
Venice is small and most of the sights
can be comfortably visited on foot.
The heart of the city is the Piazza San
Marco, which is overlooked by the great
Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. For many,
these are attractions enough, but there are
delights worth exploring beyond the Piazza,
such as the galleries of the Accademia,
Ca’ Rezzonico and the imposing Frari church. Ghetto
Unique to Venice are the naval Arsenale to Established in the early 16th century,
this fascinating quarter was the
the east and the Ghetto in the north. world’s first ghetto (see p149).
0 metres 500 CANNAREGIO

(See pp140–49)
0 yards 500
de
an
Gr
Santa Maria
Gloriosa dei Frari al
n
This soaring Gothic

Ca
edifice, founded by SAN POLO AND

the Franciscans in SANTA CROCE
1340, is a rich (See pp100–11)
repository of
Venetian painting
and sculpture l
(see pp106–7). na
Ca
DORSODURO
(See pp126–39)
Accademia
Carpaccio’s St Ursula
cycle (1490–95) is one of
Ca’ Rezzonico the treasures of the
The splendid rooms of this palace, Accademia, which has a
overlooking the Grand Canal, are comprehensive
decorated with 18th-century collection of Venetian
furniture and paintings (see p130). art (see pp134–7).
v e n i c e at a g l a n c e  59
Rialto Bridge
The bustling Rialto Bridge
(see p104) was named after
the ancient commercial seat
of Venice, where the first
Ca’ d’Oro inhabitants settled.
This ornate palace is the
finest example of Venetian
Gothic style (see p148). Basilica San Marco
Magnificent mosaics
sheathe the domes, walls
and floor of the Byzantine
Basilica (see pp82–7).
Arsenale
The great dockyard, first of its
kind in Europe, was the naval
nerve centre of the Venetian
Empire (see p123).
de
an CASTELLO
Gr
(See pp112–25)
SAN
MARCO
(See pp76–99)
Doge’s Palace
The colonnaded Gothic
palace was the seat of
government as well as
home to the doge and
his family (see pp88–93).
Santa Maria della Salute

Marking the southern end of the Grand
Canal, this great Baroque church is one
of the city’s landmarks (see p139).
VENICE AREA BY AREA  61
A VIEW OF THE
GRAND CANAL
Known to the Venetians as the Canalazzo, with crews in traditional costumes,
the Grand Canal sweeps through the heart followed by exciting boat and gondola
of Venice, following the course of an ancient races down the Grand Canal.
riverbed. Since the founding days of the The parade of palaces bordering the
empire it has served as the city’s main winding waterway, built over a span of
thoroughfare. Once used by great galleys around 500 years, presents some of the
or trading vessels making their stately way finest architecture of the Republic.
to the Rialto, it now teems with vaporetti, Historically it is like a rollcall of the old
launches, barges and gondolas. Glimpses of Venetian aristocracy, with almost every
its glorious past, however, are never far palazzo bearing the name of a once-grand
away. The annual re-enactment of historic family. Bright frescoes may have faded,
pageants, preserving the traditions of the precious marbles worn, and foundations
Venetian Republic, brings a blaze of colour frayed with the tides, but the Grand Canal
to the canal. The most spectacular is the is still, to quote Charles VIII of France’s
Regata Storica held in September (see p39), ambassador in 1495, “the most beautiful
a huge procession of historic craft packed street in the world”.
See pages 64–5
See pages 62–3

See pages 66–7
See pages 68–9
See pages 70–71
See pages 74–5

See pages 72–3
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
The Basilica Santa Maria della Salute seen from across the Grand Canal
Santa Lucia to Palazzo Flangini

The Grand Canal is best admired from a gondola or a vaporetto.
Several lines travel the length of the canal (see p284) but only the
No. 1 goes slowly enough for you to take in any of the palaces.
The journey from the station to San Zaccaria takes about 40
minutes. Nearly 4 km (2 miles) long, the canal varies in width
from 30 to 70 m (98 to 230 ft) and is spanned by four bridges,
the Scalzi, the Rialto, the Accademia and the Constituzione.
The modern Constituzione bridge links Piazzale Roma and Locator Map
Santa Lucia station.
Santa Maria di
Nazareth is known
today as the Scalzi,
after the supposedly
“shoeless” Carmelites
who founded it (see
p149). Within is the
tomb of Ludovico
Manin, last of
the doges.
Santa Lucia railway station

(see p280), built in the mid-
19th century and remodelled
in the 1950s, links the city with
the mainland. Ferrovia
Ferrovia
La Direzione Compartimentale,
the administration offices for the
railway, was built at the same time
as the station, on the site of the
church of Santa Lucia and other
ancient buildings.
Palazzo Diedo, also known as Palazzo Emo, is a Neo-

Classical palace of the late 18th century. It is believed to
be the birthplace of Angelo Emo (1731–92), the last admiral
of the Venetian fleet. The palace was built by Andrea Tirali,
an engineer who worked on the restoration of San Marco.
A VIEW OF THE GRAND CANAL  63
Palazzo Flangini was

Palazzo Calbo Crotta is designed by Giuseppe
now the four-star Hotel Sardi, a leading 17th-
Principe. Fine antiques century architect.
and fabrics which
once decorated the
palace are now in Ca’
Rezzonico (see p130).
Ferrovia
Palazzo Gritti was built in the

16th century. The Grittis were a
The Scalzi Bridge was wealthy family who produced
built in 1934, replacing one of the most intelligent
the original wrought- doges, Andrea Gritti
iron bridge. (reigned 1523–38).
Campo San Simeone

Grande, named after the
nearby church
(otherwise called San
Simeone Profeta), is one
of the few campi
overlooking the canal.
Casa Adoldo and Palazzo

Foscari-Contarini were both
rebuilt in the 16th century.
According to local tradition,
the great Doge Francesco
Foscari (ruled 1423–57) was
born in the original Foscari-
Contarini palace.
San Simeone Piccolo is a large church, in spite

of its name (piccolo means “small”). Built in
1738, its design was based partly on the
Pantheon in Rome. It is open for worship only.
San Geremia to San Stae

This stretch sees the start of the great palaces.
The most remarkable is the Vendramin
Calergi, which became a model for
other Venetian palaces.
San Geremia Palazzo Labia, frescoed with Tiepolo’s

houses the Locator Map
Story of Cleopatra, is intermittently
relics of St open to the public (see p147).
Lucy, formerly
preserved in Ca’ dei Cuori (House of
Santa Lucia, Palazzo Querini has Hearts) was named after
where the the family coat of the hearts in the family
station now arms on the façade. coat of arms.
stands.
Riva di Biasio
Palazzo Giovanelli,
a restored Gothic
palace, was acquired
by the Giovanellis in
1755. This titled non-
Venetian family had
been admitted into Fondaco dei Turchi was a splendid Veneto-
the Great Council in Byzantine building before last century’s
1668 for a fee of brutal restoration. Today it houses the
100,000 ducats. Natural History Museum (see p109).
Palazzo Donà
Balbi, built in the
17th century, is
named after two
great Venetian
families who Deposito del Megio, a crenellated
intermarried. The building with a reconstructed Lion
Donà family of St Mark, was a granary in the
produced four doges. 15th century.
Palazzo Vendramin-
Calergi, an early
Renaissance palace,
was designed by
Mauro Coducci.
The composer
Richard Wagner
died here in 1883.
Today, Venice’s
casino is housed in
San Marcuola, dedicated to St Ermagora and
the palace.
St Fortunatus, was built in 1728–36 by Giorgio
Massari, but the façade was never completed.
Palazzo Marcello,
rebuilt in the early
18th century, was
the birthplace of Palazzo Erizzo has two huge
composer Benedetto paintings depicting the feats of
Marcello in 1686. Paolo Erizzo, who died heroically
fighting the Turks in 1469.
Palazzo Emo
belonged to the family
of a famous Venetian
admiral (see p62).
San Marcuola
San Stae
Fondaco dei Deposito del Megio

Turchi
Palazzo Tron, built in the late

16th century, hosted a famous
ball in 1775 in honour of
Emperor Joseph II of Austria.
Palazzo Belloni Battagia, with
its distinctive pinnacles, was
built by Longhena in the mid- San Stae is striking for its Baroque
17th century for the Belloni façade, graced by marble statues. It
family, who had bought their was funded by a legacy left by Doge
way into Venetian aristocracy. Alvise Mocenigo in 1709 (see p109).
Palazzo Barbarigo to the Markets

Here the canal is flanked by stately palaces, built over a period
of five centuries. The most spectacular is the Gothic Ca’ d’Oro,
whose façade once glittered with gold.
Palazzo Barbarigo retains
the vestiges of its
16th-century frescoed
façade paintings. Locator Map
Palazzo Gussoni-Grimani’s
façade once had frescoes by
Tintoretto. It was home to the
English ambassador in 1614–18.
Palazzo Fontana Rezzonico
San Stae was the birthplace of
Count Rezzonico
(1693), the fifth
Venetian
pope.
Ca’ Foscarini, a
Gothic building of
the 15th century,
belonged to the Foscari
family before it became
the residence of the
Duke of Mantua in 1520.
Casa Favretto (Hotel

San Cassiano) was the
home of the painter
Giacomo Favretto
(1849–87).
Ca’ Pesaro, a huge and stately

Baroque palace designed by Palazzo Morosini
Longhena (see p27), today houses Brandolin belonged to
the Gallery of Modern Art and the the Morosini family, one
Oriental Museum (see p109). It was of the Case Vecchie
built for Leonardo Pesaro, a families, deemed to be
Procurator of San Marco. noble before the
9th century.
Ca’ Corner della

Regina (1724–8)
is owned by the
Fondazione
Prada. It houses
the Prada
contemporary art
collection and is The Pescheria has been the site of a busy fish
open during market for six centuries. Today it takes place in the
exhibitions. striking mock-Gothic market hall, built in 1907.
Ca’ d’Oro, the most famous

of Venetian Gothic palaces Canaletto
(see p148), houses Antonio Canale (Canaletto)
paintings, frescoes and (1697–1768) is best known for
sculpture from the his vedute or views of Venice.
collection of Baron He studied in Rome, but
Giorgio Franchetti, lived here for most of his life.
who bequeathed One of his patrons was
the palace and Joseph Smith (see below).
all its contents Sadly there are very few of his
to the State. paintings left on view in the city.
Palazzo Sagredo passed

from the Morosini to the
Sagredo family in the
early18th century.
The façade shows
characteristics of both
Veneto-Byzantine and
Gothic styles.
Palazzo Foscarini was the home of

Marco Foscarini, a diplomat, orator
and scholar who rose to the
position of doge in 1762.
Palazzo Mangili Valmarana was
designed by Antonio Visentini
Palazzo Michiel (above) in Classical style for
dalle Colonne was Joseph Smith, who became the
named after its English consul in Venice. Smith
distinctive colonnade. (1682–1770) was a patron of both
Visentini and Canaletto.
Palazzo Michiel
del Brusà was
rebuilt and named
after the great fire
(brusà) that swept
Ca’ d’Oro the city in 1774.
Ca’ da Mosto is a good

example of 13th-century
Veneto-Byzantine style.
Alvise da Mosto, the
Rialto
Mercato
15th-century navigator,
was born here in
1432.
Tribunale
Fabbriche
Nuove,
Sansovino’s market
building (1555), is
now the seat of the
Assize Court.
The Rialto Quarter

The area around the Rialto Bridge is the oldest and busiest quarter
of the city. Traditionally a centre of trade, crowded quaysides and
colourful food markets still border the canal south of the bridge.
Palazzo Papadopoli, formerly known

as Coccina-Tiepolo, was built in 1560.
Although now a luxury hotel, Aman Locator Map
Canal Grande Venice, its splendid
hall of mirrors has been preserved.
Riva del Vin is one of the few

spots where you can sit and
relax on the banks of the
Grand Canal (see p102).
Ca’ Corner-Martinengo-Ravà
became the Leon Bianco Hotel in
the 19th century. The American
writer James Fenimore Cooper
stayed here in 1838.
Palazzo Barzizza,
rebuilt in the 17th
century, still preserves
its early 13th-century
façade.
San Silvestro
Casetta Dandolo’s
predecessor is said to
have been the birthplace
of Doge Enrico Dandolo
(ruled 1192–1205).
Palazzo Grimani, a fine, if

somewhat austere-looking,
Renaissance palace (see p27),
was built in 1556 by Michele Palazzo Farsetti and Palazzo
Sanmicheli for the Procurator, Loredan, both occupied by the City
Girolamo Grimani. The State Council, were built around 1200 and
purchased the palace in 1807 finally merged in 1868. Palazzo Farsetti
and it is now occupied by the became an academy for young artists,
city’s Court of Appeal. one of whom was Canova.
Fondaco dei
Tedeschi, originally
used as a warehouse
and lodgings for
German traders, has
been refurbished
as a luxury
department store.
Palazzo Camerlenghi, built

in 1528, was once the offices
of the city treasurers
(camerlenghi). The ground
floor was the State prison.
Rialto
Riva del Ferro is

the quayside where
German trading The Rialto Bridge (see p104) was built to span
barges offloaded the Grand Canal in what was, and still is, the
iron (ferro). most commercial quarter of the city.
Palazzo Manin-Dolfin was

built by Sansovino in 1538–40,
but only his Classical stone
façade survives. The interior was
completely transformed for
Ludovico Manin, last doge of
Venice (died 1797). He intended
to turn the house into a
magnificent palace extending
as far as Campo San Salvatore.
The Dandolo Family

The illustrious Dandolo family
produced four doges, 12
procurators of San Marco, a
patriarch of Grado and a queen of Serbia.
The first of the doges was Enrico, who,
despite being old and blind, was the
Palazzo Bembo, a 15th-century principal driving force in the Crusaders’
Gothic palace, was the birthplace plan to take Constantinople in 1204
of the Renaissance cardinal (see p46). The other remarkable doge
and scholar Pietro Bembo, in the family was the humanist and
who wrote one of the earliest historian Andrea Dandolo (d.1354). Doge Enrico Dandolo
Italian grammars.
La Volta del Canal

The point where the canal doubles back sharply on itself is known
as La Volta – the bend. This splendid curve was long ago established
as the finishing stretch for the annual Regata Storica (see p39).
Palazzo Marcello, which

belonged to an old Venetian
family, is also called “dei Locator Map
Leoni” because of the lions
either side of the doorway. Palazzo Persico, on the corner
of Rio San Polo, is a
Palazzo Civran- 16th-century house in
Grimani is a Classical Lombardesque style.
building of the early
17th century.
Palazzo Balbi, seat of the regional
government, was built for Nicolò
Balbi, who is said to have died
of a chill surveying its
construction. From here,
Napoleon viewed the 1807
regatta, held in his honour.
San Tomà
Ca’ Foscari was built for

Doge Francesco Foscari in
1437 (see p26). It is now part
of the University of Venice.
Palazzo Giustinian was the

residence of Wagner in
1858–9, when he was Palazzo Moro Lin
composing the second act Palazzo Grassi
of Tristan and Isolde.
San Samuele
Palazzo
Capello
Ca’ Rezzonico, now the museum Malipiero
of 18th-century Venice (see p130),
became the home of the poet Ca’ Rezzonico
Robert Browning and his son,
Pen, in 1888.
Palazzo Barbarigo della Palazzo Capello-Layard was the

Terrazza, built in the 1560s, was home of Sir Austen Henry
known for its roof terrace. It now Layard, excavator of
houses the German Institute. Nineveh.
Sant’ Angelo
Palazzo Corner Spinelli,

Mauro Coducci’s outstanding
Renaissance palace, built in 1490–
1510, became a prototype for other
mansions in Venice.
Palazzo Garzoni, a
renovated Gothic palace, is
now part of the university.
The traghetto service, which
links the neighbouring Calle
Garzoni to San Tomà on the
other side of the canal, is
one of the oldest in Venice.
Palazzo Mocenigo, formed by four palaces

linked together, has a plaque to the poet
Byron, who stayed here in 1818.
Palazzo Moro Lin, also known as the “palace of

the 13 windows”, was created in the 17th century
for the painter Pietro Liberi by merging two
Gothic houses.
Palazzo Grassi, built in the 1730s and

bought by François-Henri Pinault in
2005, exhibits contemporary art.
Palazzo Capello Malipiero, a Gothic

palace, was reconstructed in 1622. Beside it,
in Campo di San Samuele, stands the
church of San Samuele, which has a
12th-century Veneto-Byzantine campanile.
Ca’ Rezzonico
Ca’ Rezzonico to
the Guggenheim
This southern stretch of the canal,
widening after the Accademia, is lined
by a rich and varied parade of palaces.
Palazzo del Duca, planned in the 15th

century as a sumptuous palace but never
finished, houses a collection of porcelain.
Palazzo Falier was

said to have been
home to Doge Marin
Falier, who was
beheaded for
treason in 1355
(see p47).
Palazzo degli Scrigni, built in

1609, acquired its name from the
coffers (scrigni) inherited by the
Contarini in 1418.
Accademia
Palazzo Loredan, home of

Doge Francesco Loredan
(1752–62), is one of many
belonging to that family.
The wooden Accademia Bridge was built in 1932

as a temporary structure to replace a 19th-century
iron bridge. By popular demand it has been retained.
Palazzo Contarini del Zaffo,

a magnificent Renaissance
The Accademia galleries, within the palace of the late 1400s,
former church, monastery and Scuola was built for a branch of
della Carità, house the world’s the ubiquitous Contarini
greatest collection of Venetian family. It is now owned
paintings (see pp134–7). by the Polignac family.
Ca’ Grande, a huge Classical

palace, was designed in 1545
by Sansovino for Giacomo Cornaro,
nephew of the Queen of Cyprus.
The family was one of the richest in
Venice and spared no expense in
the palace’s decoration. This family
tree illustrates the extent of
the Cornaro’s wealth and
influence in Venice.
Locator Map
Palazzo Franchetti Cavalli

belonged to Archduke Frederick
of Austria, who died here in 1836.
Palazzo Barbaro comprises
two palaces, one of
which was bought by the
Curtis family in 1885.
Monet and Whistler
painted here and Henry
James (right) wrote The
Aspern Papers. Casetta delle Rose, one of the
smallest houses on the canal, was
the home of Italian poet Gabriele
d’Annunzio during World War I.
Canova (above) had his studio
here in 1770.
Palazzo
Barbarigo, beside the
Campo San Vio, stands out for the
harsh mosaics, added in 1887.
Peggy Guggenheim
established her collection of
modern art in Venice in Ca’ Dario, built in
1951 (see p138). She chose 1487, is a charming
as her venue the Palazzo but strangely ill-fated
Venier dei Leoni, which had palace (see pp138–9).
been built in 1749 and
never finished.
To La Salute and San Marco

The view along the final stretch of the canal is one of the
finest – and most familiar – in Venice. Near the mouth rises the
magnificent church of La Salute with busy St Mark’s Basin beyond.
Locator Map
Palazzo Contarini Fasan, a tiny

15th-century palace with an
elegant façade, is popularly known
as the House of Desdemona from
The Palazzo Gritti-Pisani, where Shakespeare’s Othello.
Ruskin stayed in 1851, is better known
today as the luxurious five-star Hotel
Gritti Palace.
Santa Maria
del Giglio
Salute
The mock-Gothic
mansion, Ca’
Genovese, was built in
1892 in the place of
the second Gothic
cloister of the San
Gregorio monastery.
The deconsecrated Gothic

brick church of Abbazia San
Gregorio and a little cloister
are all that survive of what
was for centuries a powerful
Palazzo Salviati was the head- monastic centre. The church
quarters of the Salviati glass- is now used as a laboratory
producing company, hence the for the renovation of large-
glass mosaics on the façade. scale paintings.
Palazzo Tiepolo, the

Hotel Europa and Harry’s Bar (see
Regina, was formerly p96) was popular
owned by the Tiepolo with Hemingway
family, associated with and other writers.
an unsuccessful This was the very
uprising in 1310. first Harry’s Bar in
the world.
Palazzo Giustinian, head-

quarters of the Biennale, used to
be a hotel, where Turner, Verdi
and Proust stayed.
San Marco
Vallaressa
Giardinetti Reali, the Royal
Gardens, were created by
Napoleon to improve his view
from the Procuratie Nuove.
Palazzo Treves Bonfili, a

Classical building of the
17th century, is decorated
with Neo-Classical frescoes,
paintings and statuary.
The view from the Dogana, taking in the Doge’s

Palace, the Campanile of San Marco and the Zecca,
is one of the most memorable in Venice.
Santa Maria della Salute, a

Baroque church of
monumental proportions, is
supported by over a million
timber piles. Built to com- The Punta della Dogana,
memorate the end of the 1630 housing an art gallery, is
plague, it was the work of topped by a weathervane
Baldassare Longhena (see p139). figure of Fortune (see p139).
SAN MARCO
Home of the political and judicial nerve only one deemed fit to be called a piazza –
centres of Venice, the sestiere of San Marco the others were merely campi, or fields.
has been the heart of Venetian life since The San Marco area has the bulk of luxury
the early days of the Republic. The great hotels, restaurants and shops. It is also home
showpiece of the Serenissima was the to several imposing churches, three theatres,
Piazza San Marco, conceived as a vista for including the famous Fenice, and a wealth
the Doge’s Palace and the Basilica. The of handsome palazzi. Many of these line the
square, described by Napoleon as “the most sweeping southern curve of the Grand
elegant drawing room in Europe”, was the Canal, which borders the sestiere.
Sights at a Glance
Churches Restaurants see pp242–3
3 Basilica San Marco pp82–7 7 Columns of San Marco and 1 Acqua Pazza 12 Da Raffaele
q San Moisè San Teodoro 2 Ai Assassini 13 Devil’s Forest Pub
e Santa Maria Zobenigo s San Giorgio Maggiore 3 Ai Mercanti 14 Do Forni
y Santo Stefano Streets and Squares 4 Al Bacareto 15 Grand Canal
i San Salvatore 5 Alla Caravella 16 Harry’s Bar
t Campo Santo Stefano
a San Zulian 6 Antico Martini 17 Osteria Da Carla
o Campo San Bartolomeo
Museums and Galleries 7 Bar all’Angolo 18 Osteria Enoteca
p Mercerie
8 Bar Cavatappi San Marco
5 Libreria Sansoviniana Bars 9 Bistrot de Venise 19 Ristorante
6 Museo Archeologico
9 Harry’s Bar 10 Centrale alla Borsa
8 Museo Correr
Theatres 11 Da Ivo 20 Ristorante Quadri
u Museo Fortuny
21 Rosso Pomodoro
Palaces 0 Ridotto
22 Rosticceria
r La Fenice
4 Doge’s Palace pp88–93 San Bartolomeo
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Splendid mosaics inside the domes of Basilica San Marco For keys to symbols see back flap
street-by-street: piazza san Marco

Throughout its long history the Piazza San Marco has
witnessed pageants, processions, political activities and
countless Carnival festivities. Tourists flock here in their
thousands, for the Piazza’s eastern end is dominated by
two of the city’s most important historical sights – the
Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. In addition to these
magnificent buildings there is plenty to entertain, with
elegant cafés, open-air orchestras and smart boutiques
beneath the arcades of the Procuratie. So close to the Gondolas Traditionally gondolas
waters of the lagoon, the Piazza is one of the first points have moored in the Bacino Orseolo,
named after Doge Orseolo.
in the city to suffer at acqua alta (high tide). Tourists
and Venetians alike can then be seen picking their
way across the duckboards which are set up to Quadri’s café was the favourite
crisscross the flooded square. haunt of Austrian troops during
Mer c
the Occupation (see p250).
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the ala napoleonica is the

most recent wing enclosing
the square, built by Napoleon
to create a new ballroom.
caffè Florian (see p250) was the

favourite haunt of 19th-century
literary figures such as Byron,
Dickens and Proust.
the Giardinetti reali

(royal gardens) were
0 metres 75 laid out in the early
0 yards 75
19th century.
San Marco Vallaresso
SAN MARCO  79
2 torre dell’orologio
san polo and
The Madonna on the clock santa croce
tower is greeted each
Epiphany and Ascension by
clockwork figures of the Magi. san marco
piazzetta dei Leoncini

was named after the pair
of porphyry lions which Locator Map
stand in the square. see street Finder, map 7
3 . Basilica san Marco

The remarkable Basilica of St Mark
is a glorious reflection of the city’s
Byzantine connection.
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Ma
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4 . doge’s palace
Once the Republic’s seat of power and
home to its rulers, the Doge’s Palace,
beside the Basilica, is a triumph of
rio
Gothic architecture.
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7 columns of san Marco 1 . campanile

and san teodoro Today’s tower replaced the one
The columns marked the that collapsed in 1902. The top
main entrance to Venice provides spectacular views
San Marco when the city could be of the city.
reached only by sea.
Giardinetti
6 Museo archeologico
the zecca, designed by The museum sculptures had
Sansovino, was the city mint 5 Libreria sansoviniana
a marked influence on Venetian
until 1870, and gave its name The ornate vaulting of the
Renaissance artists.
to the zecchino or Venetian magnificent library stairway is
ducat. It houses the decorated with frescoes and
Biblioteca Marciana. gilded stucco.
For keys to symbols see back flap
1 Campanile permitting, the peaks of the

Piazza San Marco. Map 7 B2.
Alps. It was from this viewpoint
Tel 041 270 83 11. 4 San Marco. that Galileo demonstrated his
Open daily. Nov–Easter: 9:30am–5pm telescope to Doge Leonardo
(to 4:45pm Sat & Sun); Easter–Oct: Donà in 1609. To do so, he
9am–7pm (Jul–Sep: to 9pm). would have climbed the
Closed in bad weather. & 9 internal ramp. Access today
∑ basilicasanmarco.it is via a lift for which there is
usually a queue. Visitors at the
From the top of St Mark’s top of the tower on the hour
campanile, high above the should note that the five bells
Piazza, visitors can enjoy ring quite loudly. The highly ornamented clock face of the
sublime views of the city, The first tower, completed Torre dell’Orologio
the lagoon and, visibility in 1173, was built as a lighthouse
to assist navigators in the lagoon. 2 Torre
In the Middle Ages, it took on a dell’Orologio
less benevolent role as the sup
The spire, 98.5 m port for a torture cage where Piazza San Marco. Map 7 B2. Tel 848
(323 ft) high, is offenders were imprisoned 082 000. 4 San Marco. Open 10 &
topped with a 11am Mon–Wed, 2 & 3pm Thu–Sun
and in some cases left to die.
golden weather for prebooked tours in English.
The tower’s present appear
vane designed by Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
ance dates from the early ∑ torreorologio.visitmuve.it
Bartolomeo Bon. 16th century, when it was
restored by Bartolomeo The richly decorated
The five bells in Bon after an earthquake. Renaissance clock tower stands
the tower each The tower survived on the north side of the Piazza,
had their role the vicissitudes of time over the archway leading to the
during the until 14 July 1902, when Mercerie (see p99). It was built in
Republic. The its foundations gave the late 15th century, and the
marangona way and it collapsed. central section is thought to
tolled the start The only casualties were have been designed by Mauro
and end of the the Loggetta at the foot of Coducci. Displaying the phases
working day; the
the tower and the custo of the moon and the zodiac,
malefico warned
dian’s cat. The following the gilt and blue enamel clock
of an execution;
the nona rang at year, with the help of was originally designed with
noon; the mezza many donations, the seafarers in mind. A story was
terza summoned foundation stone was laid spread by scandalmongers that,
senators to the for a campanile “dov’era e once the clock was complete,
Doge’s Palace; com’era” (“where it was the two inventors of the
and the trottiera and how it was”). The new complex clock mechanism
announced a tower was opened on 25 had their eyes gouged out
session of the April (St Mark’s Day) 1912. to prevent them from ever
Great Council. Due to small structural creating a replica.
shifts, work has begun to During Ascension week and
reinforce the foundations. Epiphany, the clock draws large
An internal lift, There is no known end crowds, who watch the figures
installed in 1962, date for the work. of the Magi emerge from side
provides visitors doors to pay their respects to
with access to the Virgin and Child, whose
one of the most figures are set above the clock.
spectacular views At the very top are two huge
across Venice. bronze figures, known as the
Mori, or Moors, which strike
the bell on the hour.
The Loggetta
was built in the The allegorical 3 Basilica San
16th century reliefs from Verona
by Jacopo depict Justice Marco
Sansovino. representing Venice, See pp82–7.
Its Classical Jupiter as Crete and
sculptures Venus as Cyprus. All
celebrate the were carefully rebuilt
glory of the after the Campanile’s
4 Doge’s Palace
Republic. collapse in 1902. See pp88–93.
SAN MARCO  81
5 Libreria 7 Columns of
Sansoviniana San Marco and
Piazzetta (entrance from Museo San Teodoro
Correr). Map 7 B3. Tel 041 240 72 11 Piazzetta. Map 7 C3. 4 San Marco.
(Biblioteca Marciana). 4 San Marco.
Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed
Along with all the bounty from
public hols. & 8 ^
Constantinople came the two
Praised by Andrea Palladio as the huge granite columns which
finest building since antiquity, now tower above the Piazzetta.
the library was designed in the These were said to have been
Classical style by the architect erected in 1172 by the engineer
Jacopo Sansovino. During Nicolò Barattieri, architect of
construction (1537–88) the very first Rialto Bridge. For
the vaulting collapsed; his efforts he was granted
Sansovino was blamed the right to set up
and imprisoned. He was gambling tables A Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Hat by
freed after appeals from between the columns. Carpaccio (c.1490)
eminent acquaintances, A more gruesome
but had to reconstruct spectacle on the same 8 Museo Correr
the building at his spot was the execution Procuratie Nuove (entrance Ala Napo-
own expense. of criminals, which took leonica). Map 7 B2. Tel 041 240 52 11.
At the top of the place here until the mid- 4 San Marco. Open 10am–7pm
monumental stairway 18th century. Even today, daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
(see p79), behind a booth, superstitious Venetians 25 Dec. & allows access to Libreria
is a rare example of will not be seen walking Sansoviniana & Museo Archeologico.
Jacopo de’ Barbari’s between the columns. ^ - = ∑ correr.visitmuve.it
bird’s-eye map of Venice The western column
dating to 1500. is crowned by a With the 19th-century Royal
The salon is marble statue of Palace serving as backdrop,
sumptuously St Theodore, who a collection of statues by
decorated and was the patron saint Antonio Canova (1757–1822)
features two fine of Venice before is the first exhibit at the Museo
ceiling paintings Columns of San Marco St Mark’s relics were Correr. This is followed by the
by Paolo Veronese, and San Teodoro smuggled from bathroom and boudoir of Sissi,
Arithmetic and Alexandria in AD 828. the Empress Elizabeth, along
Geometry and Music. The statue is a modern copy – with other sumptuous rooms
the original is kept for safety laid out in the 1830s and 1850s
in the Doge’s Palace (see p92). that make up the restored
6 Museo
The second column is Imperial Apartments. The next
Archeologico surmounted by a huge bronze section, titled Venetian Culture,
Piazzetta (9am–7pm: entrance of the Lion of St Mark. Its origin is found in the older Procuratie
from Museo Correr). Map 7 B3. remains a mystery, though it is Nuove. This collection captures
Tel 041 296 76 63. 4 San Marco. thought to be a Chinese the history of the Venetian
Open 10am–7pm daily (Nov–Mar: to chimera with wings added to Republic, from daily life to
5pm). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 ^ make it look like a Venetian lion. its peculiar public institutions,
In September 1990 the 3,000-kg through maps, armour and
Housed in rooms in both (3-ton) beast went to the British a host of doge-related exhibits.
the Libreria Sansoviniana and Museum in London for extensive On the second floor is the
the Procuratie Nuove, the restoration, and was returned Wunderkammer (Collection
museum provides a quiet with great ceremony and skill of Wonders), which draws from
retreat from the bustle of to the top of the column. the legacy of the wealthy Abbot
San Marco. The collection Teodoro Correr and includes
owes its existence to coins, a narwhal tooth and the
the generosity famous Map of Venice by Jacopo
of Domenico de Barbari. The Pinacoteca picture
Grimani, son of gallery is also located on this floor.
Doge Antonio The images are displayed chrono-
Grimani, who logically so that the evolution of
bequeathed all of Venetian painting is evident. The
his Greek, Roman most famous works in the gallery
and earlier are the Carpaccios: A Portrait of a
sculpture, together with his Fragment from a monumental statue, in Young Man in a Red Hat (c.1490)
library, to the State in 1523. the Museo Archeologico and Two Venetian Ladies (c.1507).
3 Basilica San Marco

This awesome Basilica, built on a Greek cross plan and crowned with five huge
domes, is the third church to stand on this site. The first, built to enshrine the
body of St Mark in the 9th century, was destroyed by fire. The second was pulled
down in the 11th century in order to make way for a more spectacular edifice
designed by an unknown architect (1063–94), reflecting the escalating power
of the Republic. The basilica continued to be remodelled over the following
centuries, and in 1807 it succeeded San Pietro in the sestiere of Castello
(see p124) as the cathedral of Venice; it had until then served
as the doge’s private chapel for State ceremonies.
St Mark and Angels
. Horses of St Mark
The four horses are replicas
of the gilded bronze
originals (see p86), now
protected inside the Basilica.
KEY
1 The Pentecost Dome, showing

the Descent of the Holy Ghost as a . Central
dove, was probably the first dome Doorway
to be decorated with mosaics. Carvings
The central arch features
2 The Ascension Dome features
13th-century carvings of the
a magnificent 13th-century mosaic
Labours of the Month. The grape
of Christ surrounded by angels, the
harvester represents September.
12 Apostles and the Virgin Mary.
3 St Mark’s body, believed lost in
the fire of AD 976, supposedly
reappeared when the new church
was consecrated in 1094. The
remains are housed in the altar.
4 Allegorical mosaics
5 St Mark’s Treasury
6 The so-called Pilasters of Acre
in fact came from a 6th-century . Façade Mosaics
church in Constantinople. A 17th-century mosaic shows the smuggling out of
7 Baptistry Alexandria of St Mark’s body, reputedly under slices
of pork to deter prying Muslims.
BASILICA SAN MARCO  83
St Mark and Angels

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The statues crowning the
central arch are additions from
Practical Information
the early 15th century.
Piazza San Marco. Map 7 B2.
Tel 041 270 83 11.
∑ basilicasanmarco.it
Basilica: Open 9:45am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun (Nov–
Easter: till 4pm Sun). Museum:
Open 9:45am–4:45pm daily.
Treasury and Pala d'Oro:
Open 9:45am–5pm Mon–Sat,
2–5pm Sun (Nov–Easter: to 4pm
daily). 9 for Treasury only.
& Museum Treasury and Pala
d’Oro only. 5 9 times a day.
Sightseeing is limited during
services. 8 in English twice a
week in season. ^ 9 7 =
Transport
4 San Marco.
Ciborium
The fine alabaster columns of
the altar canopy, or ciborium,
are adorned with scenes
from the New Testament.
. The Tetrarchs
This charming sculptured
group in porphyry
(4th-century Egyptian) is
thought to represent
Diocletian, Maximian,
Valerian and Constance.
Collectively they were the
tetrarchs, appointed by
Diocletian to help rule
the Roman Empire.
Baptistry Mosaics
Herod’s Banquet (1343–54)
is one of the mosaics in a
cycle of scenes from the
life of St John the Baptist.
Inside the Basilica

Dark, mysterious and enriched with the spoils of conquest, the
Basilica is a unique blend of Eastern and Western influences.
This Oriental extravaganza, embellished over a period of six
centuries with fabulous mosaics, marble and carvings, made a
fitting location for the ceremonies of the Serene Republic. It
was here that the doge was presented to the city following his
election, that heads of state, popes, princes and ambassadors
were received, and where sea captains came to pray for
protection before embarking on epic voyages.
Mascoli Chapel
Formerly called the
“New Chapel”, this is
named after an all-
male confraternity,
or mascoli.
North Aisle
The gallery leading off the museum affords
visitors a splendid overall view of the mosaics.
. Pentecost Dome
Showing the Apostles touched by
tongues of flame, the Pentecost Dome
was decorated in the 12th century. Main
entrance
. Atrium Mosaics
In the glittering
Genesis Cupola the
Creation of the World
is described in
concentric circles.
Here, God creates
the fish and birds.
BASILICA SAn mArCo  85
. Pala d’Oro
The magnificent altarpiece, created
in the 10th century by medieval
goldsmiths, is made up of 250 panels
such as this one, each adorned with
enamels and precious stones.
. Ascension Dome
A mosaic of Christ in Glory decorates the
enormous central dome. This masterpiece
was created by 13th-century Venetian
craftsmen, who were strongly influenced
by the art and architecture of Byzantium.
KEY
1 The Porta dei Fiori, or Gate

of Flowers, is decorated with
13th-century reliefs.
2 The columns of the inner
façade are thought to be
fragments of the first basilica.
3 The Baptistry is also called
Chiesa dei Putti (Church of
the Cherubs).
4 South aisle
5 The Altar of the Sacrament
is surrounded by mosaics of the
parables and miracles of Christ
dating from the late 12th or
early 13th century.
6 The sacristy door (always
locked) has fine bronze panels by
Sansovino, including portraits of
himself with Titian and Aretino.
7 The Chapel of St Peter has
a 14th-century altar screen
relief of St Peter worshipped by
. Treasury two Procurators.
A repository for precious
booty from Constantinople, 8 The Altar of the Virgin has a
the Treasury also houses 10th-century icon of the Madonna
ancient Italian works of art, of Nicopeia, which came with the
such as this 12th- or 13th- spoils of war in 1204 (see p46).
century incense burner.
Exploring the Basilica

The Basilica cannot comfortably be covered in one visit. the Stories of Joseph and of
The mosaics, the rich store of eastern bounty, the mysterious Moses in the domes at the north
lighting and the sheer size of the place create a feeling of end. The figures of saints on
either side of the main doorway
confusion for first-time visitors. Make several visits, ideally at date from the 11th century and
different times of the day. The mosaics look especially splendid are among the earliest mosaics
when the church is fully illuminated (11am–12:15pm Mon–Sat, in the church. Just in front of
2–4pm Sun). Visitors with organized the central doorway there is a
tours are often led towards the lozenge of porphyry to mark the
Pala d’Oro and Treasury and spot where the Emperor Frederick
Barbarossa was obliged to make
miss out on other sections peace with Pope Alexander III
of the church. Avoid the in 1177 (see p45).
crowds by visiting early
in the morning or in the
Museo Marciano
evening. If a Mass is in
A precarious stairway from the
progress, visitors are
atrium, marked “Loggia dei
expected to be silent Cavalli”, takes you up to the
and will only be able church museum. The gallery
to visit certain areas. gives a splendid view into the
The Genesis Cupola of the atrium Basilica, while from the exterior
loggia visitors can survey the
Piazza San Marco and take a
to create complex and colourful closer look at the replica horses
Mosaics geometric patterns and beautiful on the church façade. It was
Clothing the domes, walls and scenes of beasts and birds. Some from this panoramic balcony
floor of the basilica are over of these scenes are allegorical. that doges and dignitaries once
4,000 sq m (40,000 sq ft) of The one in the left transept of looked down on ceremonies tak-
gleaming golden mosaics. The two cocks carrying a fox on a ing place in the square. The origi-
earliest, dating from the 12th stick was designed to symbolize nal gilded bronze horses, housed
century, were the work of cunning vanquished by vigilance. in a room at the far end of the
mosaicists from the east. Their museum, were stolen from the
techniques were adopted by top of the Hippodrome (ancient
Venetian craftsmen who Atrium (Vestibule) racecourse) in Constantinople
gradually took over the The 13th-century mosaics in 1204, but their origin, either
decoration, combining decorating the cupolas, vaults Roman or Hellenistic, remains
Byzantine inspiration with and lunettes of the atrium are a mystery. In the same room is
Western influences. During the among the finest in the Basilica. Paolo Veneziano’s 14th-century
16th century, sketches and The scenes depict Old Testament pala feriale, painted with stories
cartoons by Tintoretto, Titian, stories, starting at the southern of St Mark, which once covered
Veronese and other leading end with the Genesis Cupola the Pala d’Oro. Also on show are
artists were reproduced in (showing 26 detailed episodes medieval illuminated
mosaic. The original of the Creation), to manuscripts,
iconographical scheme, fragments of
depicting stories from the ancient mosaics
Testaments, has more or and antique
less been preserved by tapestries.
careful restoration.
Among the finest mosaics
in the basilica are those
decorating the
13th-century central
Dome of the Ascension
and the 12th-century
Dome of the Pentecost
over the nave.
The pavimento, or
basilica floor, spreads out like
an undulating Turkish carpet.
Mosaics, made of marble,
porphyry and glass, are used The Quadriga, the original gilded bronze horses in the museum
BASILICA SAN MARCO  87
from the island of Chios and

transported to Venice in 1125.
To its left the Mascoli Chapel,
used in the early 17th century
by the confraternity of Mascoli
(men), is decorated with scenes
from the life of the Virgin Mary.
The altarpiece has statues
depicting the Virgin and Child
between St Mark and St John.
The third chapel in the left
transept is home to the icon
of the Madonna of Nicopeia.
Looted in 1204, she was
formerly carried into battle at
Noah and the Flood – atrium mosaics from the 13th century the head of the Byzantine army.
Sanctuary and Pala d’Oro Baptistry and Chapels

Beyond the Chapel of The Baptistry (open for
St Clement, tickets are sold to prayer only) was added in
view the most valuable treasure the 14th century by Doge
of San Marco: the Pala d’Oro. Andrea Dandolo (1343–54)
This jewel-spangled altarpiece who is buried here. Under
situated behind the high his direction the Baptistry
altar consists of 250 enamel was decorated with outstanding
paintings on gold foil, enclosed mosaics depicting scenes from
within a gilded the lives of Christ and John the
silver Gothic Baptist. Sansovino, who
frame. Originally designed the font, is buried
commissioned in by the altar.
Byzantium in The adjoining Zen Chapel
AD 976, the (open for prayer only) originally
altarpiece was formed part of the atrium.
embellished It became a funeral chapel for The revered icon of the Nicopeia Madonna,
over the Cardinal Zen in 1504 in return once a war insignia
centuries. for his bequest to the State.
Following the fall In the left transept of the
of the Republic, Basilica the Chapel of St Isidore, Treasury
Napoleon helped normally accessible only for Although plundered after the
himself to some worship, was also built by fall of the Republic and much
of the precious Dandolo. Mosaics in the barrel- depleted by the fund-raising
stones, but the vault ceiling tell the tale of the sale of jewels in the early
screen still saint, whose body was stolen 19th century, the treasury
gleams nevertheless has a precious
Statue of with pearls, collection of Byzantine
St Mark on the rubies, sap- silver, gold and glasswork.
iconostasis phires and Today, most of the
amethysts. treasures are housed in
The iconostasis, the a room whose remarkably
screen dividing nave thick walls are believed
from chancel, is adorned to have been a 9th-century
with marble Gothic tower of the Doge’s Palace.
statues of the Virgin and Exhibits include chalices,
Apostles, and was carved goblets, reliquaries, two
in 1394 by the Dalle intricate icons of the
Masegne brothers. archangel Michael and
Above the high altar an 11th-century silver-gilt
the imposing green reliquary made in the
marble baldacchino form of a five-domed
is supported by finely basilica (see p85). The
carved alabaster columns sanctuary, with over
featuring scenes from The archangel Michael, a Byzantine icon from the 100 reliquaries, is normally
the New Testament. 11th century in the Treasury open to the public.
4 Doge’s Palace
The Palazzo Ducale started life in the
9th century as a fortified castle, but this and
several subsequent buildings were destroyed
by a series of fires. The existing palace owes its
external appearance to the building work of the
14th and early 15th centuries. The designers
broke with tradition by perching the bulk of the
Arco Foscari
pink Verona marble palace on lace-like Istrian The Adam and Eve figures on this triumphal
stone arcades, with a portico supported by arch in the courtyard are copies of the
columns below. The result is a light and airy 15th-century originals by Antonio Rizzo.
masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
. Porta della Carta

This 15th-century Gothic
gate was the principal
entrance to the palace.
From it, a vaulted
passageway leads to the
Arco Foscari and the
internal courtyard.
Exit
KEY
1 The balcony on the west façade

was added in 1536 to mirror the early
15th-century balcony looking on to
the quay.
2 Sala dei Tre Capi (Chamber
of the Three Heads of the Council
of Ten)
3 Sala della Bussola (Compass . Giants’ Staircase
Room) This late 15th-century
staircase by Antonio Rizzo
4 Ponte della Paglia (see p117)
was used for ceremonial
5 Adam and Eve with the serpent purposes. It was on the
are depicted in stone on the corner landing at the top that the
of the Piazzetta. doges were crowned with
the glittering zogia.
D O G E ’ S PA L A C E  89
Piazzetta. Map 7 C2.
Tel 041 427 308 92.
∑ palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
Open 8:30am–7pm daily (Nov–
Mar: to 5:30pm). Last adm: 1 hr
before closing. Secret Itineraries
(in English, 9:55am, 10:45am &
11:35am daily), Doge’s Hidden
Treasures (in English, 11:45am):
book in advance at the palace,
on the website, or on the phone.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ 9
Torture Chamber = - 7 partial.
“The court of the room of the Bridge of Sighs
Cord” recalls the practice of The famous bridge was crossed Transport
4 San Marco.
interrogating suspects as they by offenders on their way to the
hung by their wrists. State interrogators.
Drunkenness of Noah
This early 15th-century
sculpture, symbolic of the
frailty of man, is set on the
corner of the palace.
Main
entrance
Sala del Maggior Consiglio

An entire wall of the Great Council Hall is
taken up by Domenico and Jacopo
Tintoretto’s Paradise (1588–92).
Inside the Doge’s Palace

From the early days of the Republic, the Doge’s
Palace was the seat of the government, the
Palace of Justice and the home of the doge. For
centuries this was the only building in Venice
entitled to the name palazzo (the others were
merely called Ca’, short for Casa). The power of
the Serenissima is ever present in the large and
allegorical historical paintings which embellish
the walls and ceilings of the splendid halls and
chambers. These ornate rooms are testament
to the glory of the Venetian Republic,
and were designed to impress and Colonnade
overawe visiting ambassadors Sunlight streams
and dignitaries. through the arches of
the Loggia on the first
floor of the palace.
Key to Floorplan Mars

State Apartments The Giants’ Staircase is
Collegium and Senate Rooms
named after Sansovino’s
monumental figures,
Council of Ten and Armoury statues of Mars
Great Council Rooms and Neptune,
Prisons sculpted in 1567.
Non-exhibition space
Ground floor
Scala d’Oro
Sansovino’s lavish staircase was built between 1554
and 1558. The arched ceiling is embellished with
gilded stucco by Alessandro Vittoria.
Exit through Porta

della Carta
Wellhead
The two 16th-century bronze
wellheads in the courtyard
are considered to be the
finest in Venice.
. Collegiate Rooms
Bacchus and Ariadne Crowned
by Venus is the finest of four
mythological scenes by
Tintoretto in the Anticollegio.
Third floor
The Sala del Consiglio

dei Dieci has a ceiling
decorated with paintings
by Veronese (1553–4).
Sala dello Scudo

The walls of this room
are covered with maps of
the world. In the centre
are two huge 18th-
century globes.
First floor
Second floor
. Sala del Maggior Consiglio

The first 76 doges, with the exception of the traitor Marin Falier,
are portrayed on a frieze around the upper walls of the room.
Special Tours
Two fascinating guided tours take
visitors behind the scenes to rooms
that regular visitors don’t get to
see (see Visitors’ Checklist p89). The
Secret Itineraries tour explores the
offices and Hall of the Chancellery,
the State Inquisitors’ room, the
Torture Chamber and the prisons. It
was from these cells that Casanova
made his spectacular escape in
. Prisons 1755. The Doge’s Hidden Treasures
Entrance These 16th-century cells were tour exhibits the beautifully
mainly used for petty offenders. restored private apartment of
Serious criminals were lodged Venice’s ruler, including his chapel. Casanova’s cell door
in the dank pozzi (wells).
92  vEnIcE ArEA by ArEA
Exploring the Doge’s Palace

A tour of the palace takes visitors through a
Sala delle Quattro Porte
succession of richly decorated chambers and halls. to Sala del Senato
The rooms are on four levels, and they all have name
The second flight of the Scala
boards carrying an explanation of their function in
d’Oro leads to the third floor
Italian and English. The latest equipment available and its council chambers. The
is an up-to-date infrared audioguide, which can first room, the Sala delle Quattro
be hired for a commentary on the whole palace Porte, was completely rebuilt
or just the areas that are of particular interest. after the 1574 fire, its ceiling
Allow plenty of time for the visit, and try to take designed by Andrea Palladio
and frescoed by Tintoretto.
a break at the coffee shop. Located at water level, The next room, the
it affords evocative views of gondolas gliding Anticollegio, was the waiting
past in the canal. room. The end walls are
decorated with mythological
St Theodore in the scenes by Tintoretto: Vulcan’s
Courtyard palace courtyard Forge, Mercury and the Graces,
The courtyard is reached via a Bacchus and Ariadne and
vaulted passage from the Porta carved chimneypieces Minerva Dismissing Mars, all
del Frumento. At the top of the in some of the rooms give an painted in 1578. Veronese’s
Giants’ Staircase, on the idea of the doges’ lifestyle. The masterly Rape of Europa (1580),
opposite side of the courtyard, most ornate is the Sala degli opposite the window, is one
new doges were crowned with Scarlatti, with a richly carved of the most eyecatching
the zogia or dogal cap. gilt ceiling, a fireplace (c.1501) works in the palace.
designed by Off the
Antonio and Tullio Anticollegio, the
Scala d’Oro and State Lombardo and a Sala del Collegio
Apartments relief (1501–21) by was the hall where
The sumptuous Scala d’Oro Pietro Lombardo the doge and his
(“golden staircase”), built of Doge Leonardo councillors met to
between 1538 and 1559, was Loredan at the feet receive ambassa-
designed by Jacopo Sansovino. of the Virgin. dors and discuss
It takes its name, however, from The Sala dello matters of State.
the elaborate gilt stucco vault, Scudo, or map Embellishing the
which was added by Alessandro room, contains A bocca di leone used for magnificent
Vittoria (1554–8). The doge’s maps and charts. denouncing tax evaders ceiling are
private apartments on the The picture gallery 11 paintings by
second floor were built after further on features works Veronese (c.1577), of which
the fire of 1483 and later looted by Vittore Carpaccio and the most notable – in the
on the orders of Napoleon. Giovanni Bellini, and some centre, far end – is Justice and
They are bare of incongruous wooden Peace Offering Sword, Scales
furnishings, but demoniac and Olive Branch to Venice.
the lavish panels by It was in the next room, the
ceilings and Hieronymus Sala del Senato, that the doge
colossal Bosch. would sit with some 200
senators to discuss matters
such as foreign affairs or
nominations of ambassadors.
The wall and ceiling paintings,
by pupils of Tintoretto or the
master himself, are further
propaganda for the Republic.
Sala del Consiglio dei

Dieci to the Armeria
The route returns through the
Sala delle Quattro Porte to the
Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci. This
was the meeting room of the
Veronese’s Dialectic (c.1577), awesomely powerful Council of
Sala del Collegio Ten, founded in 1310 to
investigate and prosecute 3,000 guests were entertained

crimes concerning the security in this spectacular room.
of the State. Napoleon pilfered By the mid-16th century the
some of the Veroneses from the Great Council had around 2,000
ceiling but two of the finest members. Any Venetian of high
found their way back here in birth over 25 was entitled to a
1920: Age and Youth and Juno seat – with the exception of
Offering the Ducal Crown to those married to a commoner.
Venice (both 1553–4). From 1646, by which time the
In the next room, the Sala della Turkish wars had depleted State
Bussola, offenders awaited coffers, nobility from the
their fate in front of the terra firma or those
Council of Ten. The from merchant or View of the lagoon through a grille on the
room’s bocca di professional classes Bridge of Sighs
leone (lion’s with 100,000
mouth), used to ducats to spare
post secret could purchase Prisons
denunciations, their way in. From the Sala del Maggior
was just one of Tintoretto’s Consiglio a series of
several within huge, highly passageways and stairways
the palace. The restored work leads to the Bridge of Sighs
wooden door called Paradise (see p117), which links the palace
here leads to the (1587–90) to what were known as the
rooms of the occupies the New Prisons, built between
Heads of the Ten, eastern wall. 1556 and 1595.
the State Measuring 7.45 by Situated at the top of the
Inquisitors’ Room 24.65 m (25 by 81 ft), palace, just below the leaded
and thence to the it is one of the largest roof, are the piombi cells
torture chamber and paintings in the (piombo means “lead”). These
prisons. This is the Age and Youth (1553–54) world. For a man in cells are hardly inviting, but
route taken by those by Veronese his late seventies, prisoners here were far more
on the Secret Itinerary. albeit assisted by comfortable than the criminals
Others follow the flow to his son, it is a remarkably who were left to fester in the
the Armoury – one of the finest vigorous composition. pozzi – the dark dank dungeons
collections in Europe, thanks The ceiling of the hall is at ground level. The windowless
in part to bequests by decorated with panels cells of these ancient prisons are
European monarchs. glorifying the Republic. One still covered with the graffiti of
of the finest is Veronese’s the convicts. Visitors on the
Apotheosis of Venice (1583). Secret Itinerary tour are shown
Sala del Maggior A frieze along the walls illustrates Casanova’s cell in the piombi
Consiglio 76 doges by Tintoretto’s pupils. and told of how he made his
Another staircase, the Scala dei The portrait covered by a curtain daring escape from the palace
Censori, leads down to the is Marin Falier, beheaded for through a hole in the roof.
second floor, along the hallway treason in 1355. The other 42 Visits end with the offices of
and past the Sala del Guariento doges are portrayed in the Sala the Avogaria, where the state
with fresco fragments of The dello Scrutinio, where new prosecutors (avogadori)
Coronation of the Virgin by doges were nominated. prepared the trials.
Guariento (1365–7). From the
liagò, or veranda, where Antonio
Rizzo’s marble statues of Adam
and Eve (1480s) are displayed,
visitors pass into the
magnificent Sala del Maggior
Consiglio or Hall of the Great
Council. A chamber of
monumental proportions, it was
here that the Great Council
convened to vote on
constitutional questions, to pass
laws and elect the top officials
of the Serene Republic. The hall
was also used for State
banquets. When Henry III of
France paid a royal visit, The splendid Sala del Maggior Consiglio, the hall of the Great Council
Street-by-Street: Around La Fenice

West of the huge expanse of the ever-crowded Piazza San Campo San Fantin has a
Marco there is a labyrinth of alleys to explore. At the centre of late Renaissance church,
San Fantin, with a
this part of the sestiere is Campo San Fantin, flanked by the particularly beautiful apse
Renaissance church of San Fantin. Nearby is the Ateneo designed by Jacopo
Veneto, formerly a scuola whose members had the unenviable Sansovino.
CA nin
MA
role of escorting prisoners to the scaffold. The narrow streets
Mp
around these sights have some wonderfully exotic little
o
shops, while the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, further south, boasts
big names in Italian fashion. The quarter in general has some iA
eS
RT
Ri
excellent restaurants but, being San Marco, the prices C o
o
in the majority of establishments are fairly steep. d
d
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n
o
d V
R
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V
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d
o
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r . La Fenice
n
io
R
The opera house
gained its name (“the
phoenix”) after a fire in
1836. Destroyed by fire
again in 1996, it is now
beautifully restored.
CA SAn in
FA
Mp
iCe
en
nT
o
CALLe deL LA F
e
ST
Ve
L Le
de
Rio
igLio
C A L L e d e L p i o VA n
R i o d e L L’ A L b e R o
The Rio delle Veste leads past the rear of the theatre.
Adg
This is the route taken by those fortunate enough to

arrive for their night out by gondola.
MARi
Rio S
0 metres 75
0 yards 75
e Santa Maria Zobenigo
The carvings feature the Barbaro
Key family, who paid for the church
façade. Ground-level reliefs show
Suggested route towns where the family held high-
ranking posts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp232–5 and pp242–9
SAN MARCO  95
San polo and

Santa croce
C aLLe DeI FuSerI
dorSoduro
De
o Can Locator Map
DL
LLe See Street Finder, map 7
Ca
The statue of Daniele Manin, leader

of the 1848 uprising, stands on
Campo Manin gazing towards the
house where he once lived.
S
a
SerI
n
Fu
o
L
rI
u

C
a
This palazzo is often difficult to find, but

worth seeking out for its fairy-tale
LI external stairway (c.1499).
ro
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Le
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where citizens went to
roLI
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eST
(frecce). Its shops now

sell exotic clothes.
e
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arg
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Calle Larga XXII

Marzo was named
after 22 March
1848, the day of
Manin’s rebellion. q . San Moisè
Today the street is The exuberant Baroque façade of
best known for its San Moisè (c.1668) was funded by a
trendy designer legacy from the patrician Vincenzo Fini,
boutiques. whose bust features above a side door.
9 Harry’s Bar q San Moisè

Calle Vallaresso 1323. Map 7 B3. Campo San Moisè. Map 7 A3.
4 San Marco. See also Restaurants Tel 041 724 10 44. 4 San Marco.
p243, Bars and Cafés pp250–51. Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 3:30–
7:30pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm &
Celebrated for cocktails, 2:30–6:30pm Sun.
carpaccio and American clientele,
Harry’s Bar is famous throughout A church that people love
Venice. Founded in 1931 by the to hate, San Moisè displays
late Giuseppe Cipriani, it was a ponderous Baroque façade.
financed by a Bostonian called Completed in 1668, it is covered
Harry who thought Venice had in grimy statues, swags and busts.
a dearth of decent bars. They John Ruskin, in a characteristic
chose a storeroom at the Grand antiBaroque outrage,
Canal end of the Calle Vallaresso described it as the
as their location, conveniently clumsiest church
close to the Piazza San Marco. in Venice. The interior
Since then, has a mixed collection
the bar of paintings and
has seen sculpture from
a steady the 17th and
stream of 18th centuries.
American visitors, In the nave is
among them Ernest the tombstone
Hemingway, who Ernest Hemingway, a regular of John Law, a
used to come here at Harry’s Bar Scottish financier
after shooting in the who founded
lagoon. The bar became the the Compagnie d’Occident to The external stairway of the Palazzo
most popular venue in Venice, develop the Mississippi Valley. Contarini del Bovolo
patronized by royalty, film stars His shares collapsed in 1770 in
and heads of state. the notorious South Sea Bubble, stairway. In Venetian dialect
These days there are far and he fled to Venice, surviving bovolo means “snail shell”,
more American tourists than on his winnings at the Ridotto. appropriate to the spiral shape
famous figures, often there of the stairway. The ticket
to sample the Bellini cocktail for the Palazzo Contarini del
that Cipriani invented (see p243). Bovolo also admits you to
Aesthetically, the place is unre the Tintoretto room located
markable and there is no on the second floor, which
terrace for meals alfresco. houses a collection of art from
the 16th and 17th centuries.
0 Ridotto e Santa Maria

Calle del Ridotto, 1332 San Marco.
Map 7 B3. Tel 041 520 02 11. 4 San
Zobenigo
Marco. Open to hotel guests and on Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. Map 6
request. ∑ hotelmonaco.it F3. Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Santa Maria
del Giglio. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat.
In an effort to control the Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec.
gambling mania that swept Façade of San Moisè, encrusted with & ^ 9 = ∑ chorusvenezia.org
Venice in the 1600s, the State Baroque ornamentation
allowed Marco Dandolo to use Named after the Jubanico family,
his palace as the first public who are said to have founded it
gaming house in Europe. In 1638 w Palazzo Contarini in the 9th century, this church is
the Ridotto was opened, with del Bovolo also referred to as “del Giglio” (“of
the proviso that players came Corte Contarini del Bovolo, 4299 San
the lily”). The exuberant Baroque
disguised in a mask. In 1774 the Marco. Map 7 A2. Tel 041 309 66 05. façade was financed by the
Great Council closed the casino’s 4 Rialto or Sant’Angelo. Open 10am– affluent Barbaro family and was
doors on account of the number 1:30pm, 2–6pm daily. & 8 ∑ scala used to glorify their naval and
of Venetians ruined at its tables. contarinidelbovolo.com diplomatic achievements.
In 1947, the old Palazzo Inside is a tiny museum of
Dandolo was converted into a Tucked away in a maze of alleys church ornaments and paintings
theatre. Now restored, it is part (follow signs from Campo including The Sacred Family
of the Monaco and Grand Canal Manin), this palazzo is best attributed to Rubens and
hotel (see p232). known for its graceful external two works by Tintoretto.
SAN MARCO  97
r La Fenice
Campo San Fantin. Map 7 A3. Box
office Tel 041 24 24. 4 San Marco.
8 ∑ teatrolafenice.it
Theatre houses were

enormously popular in the
18th century and La Fenice,
the city’s oldest theatre, was
no exception. Built in 1792 in
Classical style, it was one of
several privately owned theatres
showing plays and operas to
audiences from all strata of Shop in Campo Santo Stefano selling antiques and masks
society. In December 1836, a
fire destroyed the interior but t Campo Santo No. 2945, Palazzo Loredan, is the
a year later it was resurrected, Stefano home of the Venetian Institute
just like the mythical bird, the of Sciences, Letters and Arts.
Map 6 F3. 4 Accademia or
phoenix (fenice) which is said
Sant’Angelo.
to have arisen from its ashes.
Another fire in early 1996 Also known as Campo
again destroyed the theatre, Francesco Morosini after the
except for its façade. Now 17th-century doge who once
beautifully rebuilt, La Fenice lived here, this campo is one of
shares the concert and opera the most spacious in the city.
season with the Malibran Bullfights were staged until
Theatre near Rialto. 1802, when a stand fell and
Throughout the 19th century killed some of the spectators.
the name of La Fenice was It was also a venue for balls and
linked with great Italian Carnival festivities. Today it is
composers. The many operatic a pleasantly informal square
premieres that took place where children play and visitors
here include Verdi’s La Traviata drink coffee in open-air cafés.
(1853) and Rossini’s Tancredi The central statue is Nicolò
(1813) and Semiramide (1823). Tommaseo (1802–74), a
During the Austrian Occupation Dalmatian scholar who was
(see p51) red, white and green a central figure in the 1848 The ceiling of Santo Stefano, in the form of
flowers, symbolizing the Italian rebellion against the Austrians. a ship’s keel
flag, were thrown on stage, to At the southern end of the
shouts of “Viva Verdi” – the square the austere-looking y Santo Stefano
letters of the composer’s name Palazzo Pisani, overlooking the Campo Santo Stefano. Map 6 F2.
standing for “Vittorio Emanuele Campiello Pisani, has been the Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Accademia
Re d’Italia”. More recently, the Conservatory of Music since the or Sant’Angelo. Open 10am–4pm
theatre saw premieres of end of the 19th century. Music Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
Stravinsky’s The Rake’s wafts from its open windows all 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & Sacristy only.
Progress (1951) and Britten’s through the year. On the 9 ^ = ∑ chorusvenezia.org
Turn of the Screw (1954). opposite side of the square,
Deconsecrated six times on
account of the violence that
took place within its walls,
Santo Stefano today is
remarkably serene. Built in
the 14th century and radically
altered in the 15th, the church
has a notable carved portal
by Bartolomeo Bon and a
campanile with a typical
Venetian tilt. The interior has
a splendid ship’s-keel ceiling,
carved tie-beams and tall pillars
of Veronese marble. The most
notable works of art, including
some paintings by Tintoretto,
La Fenice, rebuilt after it was destroyed by fire in 1996 are housed in the damp sacristy.
which is squeezed between

shops along the Mercerie. The
present church was designed
by Giorgio Spavento in the early
16th century, and continued by
Tullio Lombardo and Jacopo
Sansovino. The pictorial
highlight is Titian’s Annunciation
(1566) over the third altar on
the right. Nearby, Sansovino’s
monument to Doge Francesco
Venier (1556–61) is one of
several Mannerist tombs in
the church.
On the high altar is Titian’s
Transfiguration of Christ (1560).
The end of the right transept is
dominated by a vast monument
to Caterina Cornaro, Queen of
Cyprus (see p47). Executed by
the sculptor Bernardino Contino
in c.1580–84, the tomb shows
the queen handing over her
kingdom to the doge.
o Campo San
Bartolomeo
Map 7 B1. 4 Rialto.
Close to the Rialto, the square

of San Bartolomeo bustles with
life, particularly in the early
Courtyard of the Palazzo Pesaro, where Fortuny lived evening, when young Venetians
rendezvous here. They meet at
u Museo Fortuny The large rooms and portego cafés, bars or by the statue of
Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei, Campo San
make a splendid setting for the Carlo Goldoni (1707–93),
Beneto, San Marco 3958. Map 6 F2. precious Fortuny fabrics. Woven Venice’s prolific and most
Tel 041 520 09 95. 4 Sant’Angelo. with gold and silver threads, celebrated playwright. His
Open during exhibitions only. & ^ these were created by Fortuny’s statue, in a fitting spot for a
∑ fortuny.visitmuve.it reintroduction of Renaissance writer who drew his inspiration
techniques and use of ancient from daily social intercourse, is
Known principally for his fantastic dyes. The collection also by Antonio del Zotto (1883).
pleated silk dresses, Fortuny was includes paintings by Fortuny,
also a painter, sculptor, set decorative panels and a few of
designer, photographer and the finely pleated, clinging silk
scientist. One of his inventions dresses regarded as a milestone
was the Fortuny Dome, which in early 20th-century women’s
is used in theatre performances fashion. Today, the rooms are
to create the illusion of sky. open during visiting design
Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, and photo exhbitions.
or Don Mariano as he liked to
be called, was born in 1871 in
Granada and moved to Venice i San Salvatore
in 1889. In the early 20th century Campo San Salvatore. Map 7 B1.
he purchased the Palazzo Pesaro, Tel 041 523 67 17. 4 Rialto.
a late Gothic palazzo that had Open 9am–noon, 4–6:30pm Mon–
originally been owned by the Sat. ∑ chiesasansalvador.it
fabulously rich and influential
Pesaro family. Fortuny spent The interior of this church is an
the remainder of his life here excellent example of Venetian
and both the house and its Renaissance architecture. If the
contents were bequeathed main door is closed visitors can The beautiful Renaissance interior of the
to the city by his wife in 1956. enter by the side entrance, church of San Salvatore
SAN MARCO  99
alleys, lined by small shops and a San Zulian

boutiques. The 17thcentury
Campo San Zulian. Map 7 B2.
English author John Evelyn Tel 041 523 53 83. 4 San Marco.
described it as “the most Open 8:30am–7pm daily. 5 in
delicious streete in the World English: 10:30am Sun.
for the sweetnesse of it …
tapisstry’d as it were, with Cloth On the busy Mercerie, the
of Gold, rich Damasks & other church of San Zulian (or
silk”. He wrote of perfumers, Giuliano) provides a refuge
apothecary shops and from the crowded alleys.
nightingales in cages. Today all Its interior features gilded
this has been replaced with woodwork, 16th and
fashions, footwear and glass. 17thcentury paintings, and
At the southern sculpture. The central panel
end, the relief over of the frescoed ceiling
St George and Dragon bas-relief on a corner the first archway on portrays The Apotheosis
of the Mercerie the left portrays the of St Julian,
woman who in painted in 1585
p Mercerie 1310 accidentally by Palma il
Map 7 B2. 4 San Marco or Rialto.
stopped a revolt. Giovane. The
She dropped her 16thcentury church
Divided into the Merceria pestle out of the façade was designed
dell’Orologio, Merceria di San window, killing the by Sansovino and paid
Zulian and Merceria di San standardbearer of for by the rich and
Salvatore, this is, and always has a rebel army. They Bronze statue of immodest physician
been, a principal shopping retreated, and the Tommaso Rangone Tommaso Rangone.
thoroughfare. Linking Piazza San woman was given a His bronze statue
Marco with the Rialto, it is made guarantee that her rent stands out against the white
from a string of narrow, bustling would never be raised. Istrian stone walls.
s San Giorgio In the Chapel of the Dead is

Maggiore his last work, The Deposition
(1592–4), finished by his
Map 8 D4. Tel 041 522 78 27. 4 San son Domenico.
Giorgio. Open 9:30am–12:30pm, The top of the tall campanile,
2:30–4:30pm (later in summer). &
reached by a lift, affords a
Foundation: Tel 041 271 04 02. Open
superb panorama of the
10am–5pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar: to
4pm). & 8 in English: 11am, 1pm &
city and lagoon.
3pm (also 5pm in summer). ∑ cini.it Centuries ago Benedictine
monks occupied the original Cloisters designed by Palladio in the monastery
Appearing like a stage set monastery, which was rebuilt of San Giorgio Maggiore
across the water from the in the 13th century following
Piazzetta, the little island of an earthquake. It 1797 (see p50) the monastery
San Giorgio Maggiore has later became a was suppressed and its
been captured on canvas centre of learning treasures plundered.
countless times. and a residence for In 1829 the island became a
The church and monastery, eminent foreign free port, and in 1851 the head
built between 1559 and 1580, visitors. Following quarters of the artillery. By this
are among Andrea Palladio’s the Fall of the time it had changed out of
greatest architectural Republic in recognition. The complex
achievements. The church’s regained its role as an active
temple front and the spacious, cultural centre when the
serene interior with its perfect monastery, embracing Palladio’s
proportions and cool beauty cloisters, refectory and library,
are typically Palladian in that was purchased in 1951 by
they are modelled on the Count Vittorio Cini. Today it is
Classical style of ancient a thriving centre of Venetian
Rome. Within the church, culture, with international
the major works of art are events and exhibitions.
the two late Tintorettos on In the middle of the park on
the chancel walls: The Last the island is an evocative open
Supper and Gathering of Palladio’s church of San Giorgio Maggiore on the air amphitheatre, or Teatro Verde,
the Manna (both 1594). island of the same name of white Vicenza stone.
SAN POLO AND SANTA CROCE

The sestieri of San Polo and Santa Croce, local bars. The bustle of the market gives way
bordered by the upper sweep of the Grand to a maze of narrow alleys opening on to
Canal, were both named after churches which squares. Focal points are the spacious
stood within their boundaries. The first Campo San Polo, the Frari church and the
inhabitants are said to have settled on the neighbouring Scuola di San Rocco. Santa
cluster of small islands called Rivus Altus Croce for the most part is a sestiere of very
(high bank) or Rialto. When markets were narrow, tightly packed streets and squares
established in the 11th century, the quarter where you will see the humbler side of
became the commercial hub of Venice. San Venetian life. Its grandest palazzi line the
Polo is still one of the liveliest sestieri of the Grand Canal. Less alluring is the Piazzale Roma,
city, with its market stalls, small shops and the city’s giant car park, lying to the west.
Sights at a Glance
Churches t Museo di Storia Naturale Restaurants see pp243–4
2 San Giacomo di Rialto u Palazzo Mocenigo 1 Al Nono Risorto
4 San Cassiano i Ca’ Pesaro 2 Al Prosecco
6 San Polo Streets and Squares 3 Antica Bessetta
8 Santa Maria Gloriosa 4 Antiche Carampane
5 Campo San Polo
dei Frari pp106–7 5 Da Fiore
0 San Rocco Bridges 6 Dona Onesta
q San Pantalon 1 Rialto Bridge 7 Impronta Café
w San Nicolò da Tolentino Markets 8 Osteria alla Patatina
e San Giovanni Evangelista 9 Poste Vecie
3 Rialto Markets
r San Giacomo dell’Orio 10 Il Rèfolo
y San Stae 11 Trattoria alla Madonna
Museums and Galleries 12 La Zucca
7 Casa di Goldoni
9 Scuola Grande di San Rocco
pp110–11
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San Tomà
0 metres 250
0 yards 250 See also Street Finder

maps 1, 2, 5, 6, 7
The landmark Rialto Bridge spanning the Grand Canal in the heart of Venice For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: San Polo

The Rialto Bridge and markets make this a 4 San Cassiano
magnet for tourists. Traditionally the city’s Inside this church is
a carved altar (1696)
commercial quarter, it was here that and a Crucifixion by
bankers, brokers and merchants Tintoretto (1568).
conducted their affairs. Streets are no O
N
longer lined with stalls selling spices and IA
S
fine fabrics, but the food markets and S
A
C
pasta shops are a colourful sight. The old- N
A
fashioned standing-only bars called bacari S E
IL
are packed with locals. In contrast, Riva N
PA
del Vin to the south, by the Grand M
CA
Canal, is strictly tourist territory. EL
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many bridges in the M R LE

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city. It leads under a

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portico to Calle Stretta, a

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narrow alley that is only

IA
1 m (3 ft) wide in places.

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rebuilt in the 15th, is

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now deconsecrated. AN
OS O
ER
Gothic reliefs MP TR
C A I LV E S
decorate the façade. S
Key
Suggested route
San Silvestro
Riva del Vin,

where wine was offloaded from
boats, is one of the few accessible
quaysides along the Grand Canal.
S A N P O LO A N D S A N TA C R O C E  103
CANNAREGIO
SAN POLO AND

SANTA CROCE
SAN MARCO
DORSODURO
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2, 3, 7
FM
TA 3 . Rialto Markets
D The Rialto markets have been in operation
EL
L´ for centuries. The Pescheria (above) sells
O fresh fish and seafood, and the Erberia
LI
O sells fruit and vegetables.
C
The statue of Gobbo
P A of the Rialto, the
E DE M
S hunchback, was sculpted
C LLPO
H
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E
RI
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RU
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SA Since its installation in 1410, the
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FI
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VE
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Calle della
Madonna looks
distinctly medieval
with its overhanging
first floors.
1 . Rialto Bridge
A beloved landmark of the
Grand Canal, the bridge marks
the geographical centre of the
city. The balustrades afford
fine views of the canal.
1 Rialto Bridge competition was held for the

Ponte di Rialto. Map 7 A1. 4 Rialto.
design of a new bridge to be
built in stone. Michelangelo,
The Rialto Bridge has been a busy Andrea Palladio and Jacopo
part of the city for centuries. At Sansovino were among the
any time of day, you will find eminent contenders, but after
crowds jostling on the bridge, months of deliberation it was the
browsing for souvenirs or taking a aptly named Antonio da Ponte
break to watch the constant swirl who won the commission. The
of activity on the Grand Canal bridge was built between 1588
from the bridge’s balustrades. and 1591 and, until 1854, when
Stone bridges were built in the Accademia Bridge was
Venice as early as the 12th constructed, this remained the
century, but it was not until only means of crossing the
1588, after the collapse, decay Grand Canal on foot.
or sabotage of earlier wooden Traghetto ferrying passengers across
structures, that a solid stone to the Pescheria and the Erberia
bridge was designed for the 2 San Giacomo
Rialto. One of the early wood di Rialto 3 Rialto Markets
crossings collapsed in 1444 Campo San Giacomo, San Polo. Map 3 San Polo. Map 3 A5. 4 Rialto. Erberia
under the weight of spectators A5. Tel 041 275 04 62. Open 10am– (fruit and vegetable market) until
at the wedding ceremony of the 5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 12:30pm Mon–Sat. Pescheria (fish
Marchese di Ferrara. 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^ = market): until 12:30pm Tue–Sat.
Vittore Carpaccio’s painting ∑ chorusvenezia.org
Healing of the Madman (c.1496, Venetians have come to the
see p137) in the Accademia The first church to stand on this Erberia to buy fresh produce for
shows the fourth bridge – a site was allegedly founded in hundreds of years. Heavily
rickety-looking structure with a the 5th century, making it the laden barges arrive at dawn and
drawbridge for the tall-masted oldest church in Venice. The offload their crates on to the
galleys. By the 16th century this present building dates from the quayside by the Grand Canal.
was in a sad state of decay and a 11th to 12th centuries, with Local produce includes red
major restoration in 1601. The radicchio from Treviso, and
original Gothic portico and succulent asparagus and baby
huge 24-hour clock are the artichokes from the islands of
most striking features. Sant’Erasmo and Le Vignole (see
The crouching stone figure on p153). In the adjoining fish
the far side of the square is the market are sole, sardines, skate,
so-called Gobbo (hunchback) of squid, crabs, clams and other
the Rialto. In the 16th century this species of seafood and fish. To
was a welcome sight for minor see it all in full swing you must
offenders, who were forced to run arrive early in the morning – by
Busy canalside restaurant near the the gauntlet from Piazza San noon the vendors are starting
Rialto Bridge Marco to this square at the Rialto. to pack up.
Rialto Bridge The central thoroughfare is

Until the 19th century this was lined with two rows of shops.
the only link between the two
sides of the Grand Canal.
External
balustraded
footpath
The height of 7.5 m (24 ft)

enabled galleys to pass below.
Single arch span of

48 m (157 ft)
4 San Cassiano
Campo San Cassiano, San Polo.
Map 2 F5. Tel 041 721 408. 4 San
Stae. Open 9am–noon, 3–7pm daily.
Closed during Mass.
The Medieval Church of San

Cassiano is a bizarre mix of
architectural styles. Of the
original church, which was
restored in the 19th century,
only the campanile survives.
The highlight of the interior is
Jacopo Tintoretto’s immensely
powerful Crucifixion (1568),
which is in the sacristy. A detail of the Gothic façade of Palazzo Soranzo, Campo San Polo
The campo in which the
church stands was notorious Since 1979 the square has of the Cross by Giandomenico
for prostitutes in the 1500s. enjoyed a revival of Carnival Tiepolo. The church also
festivities. This wide-open space has paintings by Veronese,
is also a haven for local Palma il Giovane (the Younger)
5 Campo San Polo youngsters, who ride bikes, and a dark and dramatic
roller-skate or play football. Last Supper by Tintoretto.
Map 6 F1. 4 San Silvestro.
Such activities would not have
The spacious square of San gone down well in the 17th
Polo has traditionally been century – a plaque on the apse
host to spectacular events. As of the church, dated 1611,
far back as the 15th century it forbids all games (or selling
was the venue for festivities, merchandise) on pain of prison,
masquerades, ceremonies, galley service or exile.
balls and bullbaiting.
The most dramatic event was
the assassination of Lorenzino 6 San Polo
de’ Medici in 1548. He had
Campo San Polo. Map 6 F1. Tel 041 275
taken refuge in Venice after
04 62. 4 San Silvestro. Open 10am–
brutally killing his cousin 5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
Carlo Goldoni 1707–93
Alessandro, Duke of Florence. 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^ =
Lorenzino was stabbed in the ∑ chorusvenezia.org 7 Casa di Goldoni
square by two assassins who
Palazzo Centani, Calle dei Nomboli,
were in the service of Cosimo Founded in the 9th century,
San Polo 2794. Map 6 E1. Tel 041 275
de’ Medici, and both were rebuilt in the 15th and 93 25. 4 San Tomà. Open 10am–
handsomely rewarded by the revamped in the early 19th in 4pm Thu–Tue (Apr–Oct: to 5pm).
Florentine duke. Neo-Classical style, the church Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & =
On the eastern side of the of San Polo lacks any sense of 7 ∑ carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it
square is the beautiful Gothic homogeneity. Yet it is worth
Palazzo Soranzo. This was visiting for individual features Carlo Goldoni, one of the city’s
originally two palaces – the one such as the lovely Gothic portal favourite sons, wrote over 250
on the left is the older. The and the Romanesque lions at comedies, many based on
building is still owned by the the foot of the 14th-century commedia dell’arte figures.
Soranzo family. campanile – one holds a Goldoni was born in the
Palazzo Corner Mocenigo, serpent between its paws, beautiful Gothic Palazzo
which is situated in the the other a human head. Centani (or Zantani) in 1707.
northwest corner (No. 2128), Inside, follow the signs for The house was left to the city
was once the residence of the the Via Crucis del Tiepolo – in 1931 and is now a centre for
eccentric English writer Frederick 14 canvases of the Stations theatrical studies and has a
Rolfe (1860–1913), alias Baron collection of theatrical
Corvo. He was thrown out memorabilia. The
of his lodgings when his enchanting courtyard
English hostess read has a 15th-century
his manuscript of The open stairway and a
Desire and Pursuit of magnificent wellhead,
the Whole – a cruel which features carved
satirization of English lions and a coat of arms
society in Venice. A lion at the foot of the campanile, Church of San Polo bearing a hedgehog.
8 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by all simply as the Frari (a corruption of Frati, meaning
“brothers”), this huge, plain Gothic church dwarfs the eastern section
of San Polo. The first church was built by Franciscan friars in 1250–
1338, but was replaced by a larger building which was completed
by the mid-15th century. The interior is striking for its
sheer size and for the quality of its works of art. These
include masterpieces by Titian and Giovanni Bellini
(see pp30–31), a statue by Donatello and a number
of imposing monuments to famous Venetians.
Foscari Monument
Doge Foscari set a record
by reigning for 34 years
(1423–57).
. Assumption of
the Virgin
Titian’s glowing and
spectacular work (1518)
inevitably draws the eye
through the monk’s
choir towards the altar.
Rood Screen (1475)

Pietro Lombardo and
Bartolomeo Bon carved
this and decorated it
with marble figures.
. Monks’ Choir
This consists of three-tiered stalls
(1468), carved with bas-reliefs of
saints and Venetian city scenes.
Floorplan
Exploration of the huge VisiTors’ CheCklisT
interior can be daunting.
The floorplan pinpoints Practical Information
12 highlights that should Campo dei Frari. Map 6 D1.
not be missed. Tel 041 275 04 62.
∑ chorusvenezia.org
open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 1–6pm
key to Floorplan
Sun & religious hols. Closed 1 Jan,
1 Canova’s tomb Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & except
2 Monument to Titian those attending Mass. ^ 9
3 Titian’s Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro 5 frequent.
4 Choir stalls Transport
5 Corner Chapel 4 San Tomà.
6 Tomb of Monteverdi
7 Tomb of Doge Nicolò Tron
8 High altar with Titian’s Assumption
of the Virgin
9 Tomb of Doge Francesco Foscari
10 Donatello’s John the Baptist (c.1450)
11 Bo Vivarini’s altar painting (1474),
Bernardo Chapel
12 Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna
Enthroned with Saints (1488)
Monument to Titian (1853)

Canova’s pupils Luigi and Pietro
Zandomeneghi built this
monument to Titian in place of the
one conceived by Canova himself.
keY
1 The campanile is 80 m (262 ft)

high, the tallest in the city after that
of San Marco.
2 Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro (1526)
shows Titian’s mastery of light
and colour.
3 The former monastery, which
houses the State Archives, has
two cloisters, one in the style of
Sansovino, another designed
by Palladio.
Entrance
Canova’s Tomb
Canova designed, but never actually
made, a Neo-Classical marble pyramid
like this as a monument for Titian. After
Canova’s death in 1822, his pupils used
a similar design for their master’s tomb.
9 Scuola Grande di the world’s largest work of art

San Rocco on canvas), depicting the
martyrdom and apotheosis of
See pp110–11. the physician St Pantalon. The
artist, Gian Antonio Fumiani,
took 24 years (1680–1704) to
0 San Rocco achieve this masterpiece, but
Campo San Rocco, San Polo. then he allegedly fell to his
Map 6 D1. Tel 041 523 48 64. 4 San death from the scaffolding.
Tomà. Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. Paolo Veronese’s emotive
∑ scuolagrandesanrocco.it painting St Pantalon Healing a
Boy (second chapel on the
Sharing the little square with the right) was his final work of art
celebrated Scuola Grande di San (1587). To see Antonio Vivarini Lombardo’s marble screen and portal,
Rocco is the church of the same and Giovanni d’Alemagna’s San Giovanni Evangelista
name. Designed by Bartolomeo Coronation of the Virgin (1444)
Bon in 1489 and largely rebuilt and The Annunciation (1350), and in the arch crowning the
in 1725, the exterior is a mix of attributed to Paolo Veneziano, portal there is a magnificent
architectural styles. The façade ask the custodian for access to carved eagle representing
was added in 1765–71. the Chapel of the Holy Nail St John the Evangelist.
Inside, the main interest lies (Cappella del Sacro Chiodo). The main hall of the Scuola
in Tintoretto’s paintings in the is reached via a splendid 15th-
chancel, which depict scenes century double stairway by
from the life of St Roch, patron w San Nicolò Mauro Coducci (1498). Large,
saint of contagious diseases. da Tolentino dark canvases decorate
Of these the most notable is Campo dei Tolentini, Santa Croce.
the ceiling and walls of the
St Roch Curing the Plague Map 5 C1. Tel 041 522 21 60. 18th-century hall. The Scuola’s
Victims (1549). 4 Piazzale Roma. Open 8am–noon, greatest art treasure, the cycle
4–7pm daily. Closed during Mass. of paintings depicting The Stories
∑ tolentini.it of the Cross, is now on display in
the Accademia gallery (see p137).
Close to Piazzale Roma It formerly embellished the
(see p271) is this imposing oratory (off the main hall)
17th-century church with a where the Reliquary of the True
Classical portico. The interior, Cross is still carefully preserved.
decorated with 17th-century
paintings, is the resting place
of Francesco Morosini (d.1678), r San Giacomo
the Venetian patriarch. dell’Orio
A cannonball embedded in Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa
the façade is a memento of an Croce. Map 2 E5. Tel 041 275 04 62.
Austrian bombardment during 4 Riva di Biasio or San Stae. Open
the siege of 1849. 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^
e San Giovanni
Evangelista This church is a focal point of
Campiello de la Scuola, San Polo. a quiet quarter of Santa Croce.
Fumiani’s ceiling painting (1680–1704), Map 6 D1. Tel 041 71 82 34. 4 San The name “dell’Orio” (locally
San Pantalon Tomà. Open 9:30am–5pm on days “dall’Orio”) may derive from
when no events are being held, check a laurel tree (alloro) that once
q San Pantalon website for details. & Church & stood near the church.
Scuola. ∑ scuolasangiovanni.it Founded in the 9th century,
Campo San Pantalon, Dorsoduro. Map
rebuilt in 1225 and repeatedly
6 D2. Tel 041 523 58 93. 4 San Tomà,
Piazzale Roma. Open 10am–noon, A confraternity of flagellants modified, it is a mix of architec-
1–3pm Mon–Sat. ∑ sanpantalon.it founded the Scuola of St John tural styles. The basilica ground
the Evangelist in 1261. The plan, campanile and Byzantine
The overwhelming feature of complex, just north of the Frari columns survive from the 13th
this late 17th-century church is (see pp106–7), has a church, century. The ship’s keel roof and
the painted ceiling, dark, awe- scuola, a bookshop and the columns are from the Gothic
inspiring and remarkable for its courtyard. Separating the period and the apses are Renais-
illusionistic effects. The ceiling square from the street is Pietro sance. The sacristy ceiling was
comprises a total of 40 scenes Lombardo’s elegant white and decorated by Veronese and there
(admirers claim this makes it grey screen and portal (1480), are some gripping altar paintings.
tMuseo di Storia in 1709 by Domenico Rossi. i Ca’ Pesaro

Naturale Works by Piazzetta, Tiepolo and Canal Grande, Santa Croce 2076.
other 18th-century artists adorn Map 2 F5. 4 San Stae. Galleria d’Arte
Canal Grande, Santa Croce 1730. Map 2 the chancel. Near the second altar
E4. Tel 041 275 02 06. 4 San Stae. Moderna & Museo Orientale: Tel 041
on the left is the bust of Antonio 72 11 27. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Open Nov–May: 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
Foscarini, executed for treason in (Nov–Mar: to 5pm); ticket office closes
10am–6pm Sat & Sun; Jun–Oct: 10am–
1622 but pardoned the next year. 1 hour earlier. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25
6pm Tue–Sun. & ∑ msn.visitmuve.it
Dec. ^ - = 7 8 & combined
The Fondaco dei Turchi, which ticket. ∑ capesaro.visitmuve.it
houses Venice’s Natural History
Museum has a chequered It took 58 years to complete
history. In the 13th century it this magnificent Baroque
was one of the largest palazzi on palace. Built for the Pesaro
the Grand Canal. In 1381 it was family, it was the masterpiece
bought by the state for the Dukes of Baldassare Longhena, who
of Ferrara and its lavish rooms worked on it until his death in
were used for banquets and state 1682. Antonio Gaspari then
functions. In 1621 the Turks set took over Longhena’s design,
up a warehouse (fondaco), and eventually completing the
the portico was used for loading structure in 1710.
merchandise. As commerce with In the 19th century the
the Orient declined further, the Duchess of Bevilacqua La Masa
structure fell into disrepair until, One of the finely furnished rooms of bequeathed the palace to the
roused by Ruskin’s passionate Palazzo Mocenigo city for exhibiting the works of
interest, the Austrians began unestablished Venetian artists.
restoration work in the 1850s. uPalazzo The Galleria d’Arte Moderna
Since 1923 the Fondaco has
housed the Natural History
Mocenigo was founded in 1897. Today this
features a permanent exhibition
Museum (Museo di Storia Salizzada San Stae, Santa Croce 1992. of work by artists such as
Naturale). There is a collection of Map 2 F5. Tel 041 72 17 98. 4 San Bonnard, Matisse, Miró, Klee,
stuffed animals, crustacea and Stae. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun Klimt and Kandinsky, in addition
dinosaur fossils and a section on (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). Closed 1 Jan, to works by Italian artists of the
1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ =
lagoon life. Prize exhibits include 19th and 20th centuries.
∑ mocenigo.visitmuve.it
a skeleton of an Ouranosaurus The Museo Orientale has
nigeriensis, 7 m (23 ft) long and One of the oldest Venetian an idiosyncratic collection of
3.6 m (12 ft) tall, and a fossil of families, the Mocenigos Chinese and Japanese artifacts
a Sarcosuchus imperator – an produced seven doges. There collected by the Count of Bardi
ancestor of the crocodile. were various branches of the during his 19th-century travels.
family, one of which resided
in this handsome 17th-
century mansion. Count
Alvise Nicolò Mocenigo, the
last of this particular branch,
died in 1954, bequeathing
the palace to the Comune di
Venezia (city authorities).
The entrance façade is
unremarkable, but the interior
Ouranosaurus is elegantly furnished and gives
skeleton on display you a rare opportunity of seeing
in the museum inside a palazzo preserved more
or less as it was in the 18th
century. The frescoed ceilings and
y San Stae other works of art are celebrations
Campo San Stae, Santa Croce.
of the family’s achievements.
Map 2 F4. Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 San The illustrious Mocenigos are
Stae. Open 1:45–4pm Mon, 10am– portrayed in a frieze around
5pm Tue–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. the portego on the first floor.
&9^ The Museo del Tessuto e del
Costume inside the house
Restored in 1977–8 by the Pro contains antique fabrics and
Venezia Foundation, San Stae (or exquisitely made costumes.
Sant’Eustachio) has a spick-and- It also has five rooms dedicated Gustav Klimt’s Salome, Gallery of Modern
span sculpted façade. It was built to the history of perfumes. Art, Ca’ Pesaro
9 Scuola Grande di San Rocco

Founded in honour of St Roch (San Rocco), the Scuola
was set up as a charitable institution for the sick.
Construction began in 1515 under Bartolomeo Bon and
was completed in 1549 by Scarpagnino, financed largely
by donations from Venetians who believed that St Roch,
the patron saint of contagious diseases, would save them
from the plague. In 1564 Tintoretto (see p144) was
commissioned to decorate the walls and ceilings of the
Scuola. His remarkable cycle of paintings starts in the Sala Restored main entrance to the
dell’Albergo (see Gallery Guide). Scuola di San Rocco
Sala dell’Albergo
The Crucifixion
A self-portrait was
In this panorama of often a feature of
Calvary, Tintoretto reached Tintoretto’s paintings.
a pitch of religious feeling
never hitherto achieved in The subsidiary figures are
Venetian art. full of life but do not lessen
the central drama.
A competition was held in
1564 to select an artist to
paint the central ceiling
panel of the Sala dell’Albergo Figure of Christ
in the Scuola. To the fury of The crucified figure of the
his rivals, Tintoretto pre- Redeemer is raised and
empted his fellow leaning, accentuating His
competitors by installing his divinity and saving grace.
painting in situ prior to
judging. He won the ceiling of the Sala dell’Albergo.
commission and was later made The most moving work in the
a member of the Scuola. Over cycle is The Crucifixion (1565) 2.
the next 23 years, Tintoretto Henry James wrote: “Surely no
decorated the entire building. single picture contains more of
The series of paintings, human life; there is everything
completed in 1587, reveals in it, including the most
Tintoretto’s revolutionary use of exquisite beauty.” Of the
light, mastery of foreshortening paintings on the entrance wall,
and visionary use of colour. The portraying the Passion of Christ,
winning painting, St Roch in the most notable is Christ Before
Glory 1, can be seen on the Pilate (1566–7) 3. Sala dell’Albergo
Testament. The most striking Visitors’ CHeCklist

Upper Hall paintings are The Temptation
Scarpagnino’s great staircase of Christ 7, which shows a Practical Information
(1544–6), decorated with two handsome young Satan offering Campo San Rocco. Map 6 D1.
vast paintings commemorating Christ two loaves of bread, and tel 041 523 48 64. open 9:30am–
the plague of 1630, leads to the Adoration of the Shepherds 8. 5:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan,
Upper Hall. The biblical subjects Like The Temptation of Christ, 25 Dec. & ^ 9 = 7
∑ scuolagrandesanrocco.it
on the walls and ceiling were the Adoration is composed in
painted in 1575–81. The ceiling two halves, with a female Transport
paintings (viewed most figure, shepherds and ox 4 San Tomà.
comfortably with a hired mirror) below, and the Holy Family
portray scenes from the Old and onlookers above.
Testament. The three large The beautiful carvings below
central square paintings the paintings were added in the
represent Moses Striking Water 17th century by Francesco
from the Rock 4, The Miracle of Pianta. The allegorical figures
the Bronze Serpent 5 and The include (near the altar) a
Gathering of the Manna 6, all caricature of Tintoretto with his
alluding to the Scuola’s palette and brushes, which is
charitable aims in alleviating meant to represent Painting.
thirst, sickness and hunger Near the entrance to the Sala
respectively. All three paintings dell’Albergo you can see Titian’s
are crowded compositions with Annunciation. The easel painting The Flight into Egypt (1582–7) (detail)
much violent movement. The Christ Carrying the Cross is
vast wall paintings in the hall attributed to Giorgione, though
feature episodes from the New many believe it to be a Titian. Ground-Floor Hall
This final cycle, executed in
1582–7, consists of eight
paintings illustrating the life of
Mary. The series starts with an
Annunciation, and ends with an
Assumption, which was restored
some years ago. The tranquil
scenes of St Mary of Egypt 9,
St Mary Magdalene 0 and The
Flight into Egypt q, painted
when Tintoretto was in his late
sixties, are remarkable for their
serenity. This is portrayed most
lucidly by the Virgin’s isolated
spiritual contemplation in the
St Mary of Egypt. In all three
paintings, the landscapes,
rendered with rapid strokes,
The Temptation of Christ, 1578–81 (detail) play a major role.
Main
entrance Gallery Guide
The paintings, which
unfortunately are not well lit,
have no labels, but a useful
plan of the Scuola is available
(in several languages) free of
charge at the entrance. To see
the paintings in chronological
order, start in the Sala
dell’Albergo (off the Upper Hall),
followed by the Upper Hall and
finally the Ground-Floor Hall.
key
Wall paintings
Ceiling paintings
Upper Hall Ground-Floor Hall
CASTELLO
The largest sestiere of the city, Castello The industrial hub of Castello was the
stretches from San Marco and Cannaregio Arsenale, where the great shipyards
in the west to the modern blocks of produced Venice’s indomitable fleet of
Sant’Elena in the east. The area takes its warships. Castello’s most popular and solidly
name from the 8th-century fortress that commercial area is the Riva degli Schiavoni
once stood on what is now San Pietro, the promenade. Behind the waterfront it is
island which for centuries was the religious comparatively quiet, characterized by
focus of the city. The church here was the narrow alleys, elegantly faded palazzi and
episcopal see from the 9th century and fine churches, including the great Santi
the city’s cathedral from 1451 to 1807. Giovanni e Paolo (see pp120–21).
Sights at a Glance
Churches Museums, Galleries and Scuole Restaurants see p244
1 San Zaccaria 7 Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra 1 Aciugheta
2 San Giorgio dei Greci 8 Fondazione Querini Stampalia 2 Al Covo
3 La Pietà 0 Palazzo Grimani 3 Al Mascaron
e Santi Giovanni e Paolo pp120–21 w Scuola Grande di San Marco 4 Alla Rivetta
t San Francesco della Vigna u Scuola di San Giorgio 5 Bacarando Ai Corazzieri
y San Lorenzo degli Schiavoni 6 Da Remigio
i San Giovanni in Bragora o Museo Storico Navale 7 MET
Historic Buildings and Walk 8 L’Olandese Volante
Monuments 9 Osteria Santa Marina
a Exploring Eastern Castello
10 Il Ridotto
4 Hotel Danieli
11 Trattoria Giorgione
q Statue of Colleoni
r Ospedaletto
p Arsenale
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Statue beside the gate at the entrance to Porta Magna, Arsenale For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Castello
A stroll along the Riva degli Schiavoni is an
integral part of a visit to Venice. Glorious views
of San Giorgio Maggiore compensate for the
commercialized aspects of the quayside:
souvenir stalls, excursion touts and an
abundance of tourists. Associations with
literary figures are plentiful. Petrarch lived
at No. 4145, Henry James was offered “dirty”
lodgings at No. 4161, and Ruskin stayed at the 7 . Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra
Hotel Danieli. Inland, the quiet, unassuming The cloisters of the ancient
Benedictine monastery of
streets and squares of Castello provide a Sant’Apollonia herald
contrast to the bustling waterfront. the museum.
Palazzo Trevisan-Cappello, used

as a showroom for Murano glass,
was the home of Bianca Cappello,
LA
wife of Francesco de’ Medici.
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6 Ponte della Paglia and Bridge of Sighs

Crowds throng the Istrian stone Ponte
della Paglia – the “straw bridge” – for the best
views of the neighbouring Bridge of Sighs, the
covered bridge that links the Doge’s Palace
to the old prisons.
LI
R I VA D E G
NI
S C H I AV O
5 Riva degli Schiavoni
This paved quayside was
established over 600 years San Zaccaria
ago, and widened in 1782. Paglia San Zaccaria
Danieli
4 Hotel Danieli
Joseph da Niel, after whom this
hotel was named, turned the
Palazzo Dandolo into a haunt for
19th-century writers and artists.
CASTELLO  115
Palazzo Priuli, overlooking the

quiet Fondamenta Osmarin, is a
fine Venetian Gothic palace. The
corner window is particularly
CASTELLO
beautiful, but the early 16th-
century façade frescoes have
SAN
long since disappeared. MARCO
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 7, 8
2 San Giorgio dei Greci
Subsidence is the cause of the city’s
tilting belltowers; San Giorgio dei
Greci’s looks particularly perilous.
O LO
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RIO F M TA
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1 . San Zaccaria
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Coducci added Renaissance

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details such as this panel to

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the Gothic façade.

CA
BOSELLO
Key
C ALLE
CAMPO
SAN Suggested route
I
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ZACCARIA
PIE TA
0 metres 75
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0 yards 75
RIO
DELLA
C ALLE
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DEGL
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San Zaccaria MVE Pensione Wildner

Jolanda is where Henry
James completed
Portrait of a Lady
(1881).
The Statue of
Vittorio Emanuele II, 3 . La Pietà
the first king of a united In Vivaldi’s day, the church became
Italy, was sculpted by famous for the superb quality of its
Ettore Ferrari in 1887. musical performances.
1 San Zaccaria Florence, and Gothic polyptychs 3 La Pietà

Campo San Zaccaria. Map 8 D2.
painted in 1443–4 by Antonio Riva degli Schiavoni. Map 8 D2.
Tel 041 522 12 57. 4 San Zaccaria. Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna. Tel 041 522 21 71. 4 San Zaccaria.
Open 10am–noon, 4–6pm Mon–Sat, The relics of eight doges lie Open 10:15am–noon & 3–5pm Tue–Fri,
4–6pm Sun & public hols. & Chapels buried in the waterlogged crypt. 10:15am–1pm & 2–5pm Sat & Sun. &
& Crypt. ^ 8 noon Tue–Fri. ∑ pietavenezia.org
Set in a quiet square a stone’s The church of La Pietà (or Santa

throw from the Riva degli Maria della Visitazione) dates
Schiavoni, this church blends from the 15th century. It was
Flamboyant Gothic and Classical rebuilt in 1745–60 by Giorgio
Renaissance styles. Founded in Massari, and the Classical façade
the 9th century, San Zaccaria was added in 1906. The church
was completely rebuilt between has a cool, elegant interior, with
1444 and 1515. Antonio an oval plan. The resplendent
Gambello began the façade in ceiling fresco, Triumph of Faith
Gothic style and, when Gambello (1755), was painted by
died in 1481, Mauro Coducci Giambattista Tiepolo.
completed the upper section, The Pietà started its life as a
adding all the Classical detail. foundling home for orphans.
The adjoining Benedictine It proved so popular that a
convent, which had close links warning plaque was set up (still
with the church, became quite to be seen on the side wall),
notorious for the riotous Distant view of San Giorgio dei Greci’s threatening damnation to
behaviour of its nuns. The tilting campanile parents who tried to pass off
majority were from families of their children as orphans.
Venetian nobility, many of them 2 San Giorgio dei From 1703 until 1740, Antonio
sent to the convent to avoid Greci Vivaldi directed the musical
the expense of a dowry. groups and wrote numerous
Every Easter the doge came Map 8 D2. Tel 041 523 95 69. 4 San oratorios, cantatas and vocal
with his entourage to San Zaccaria. Open 9am–1pm, 2:30–5pm pieces for the Pietà choir, and
Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun (for Mass
Zaccaria – a custom which the church became famous for
only). Museo dell’Icone: Tel 041 522 65
originated as an expression of its performances.
81. Open 9am–5pm daily. & ^
gratitude to the nuns, who had It is now a popular venue
relinquished part of their garden The most remarkable feature for concerts, with an emphasis
so that Piazza San Marco could of this 16th-century Greek on Vivaldi. These are held
be enlarged. church is the listing campanile, throughout the year, usually
The artistic highlight of the which looks as if it is about to on Mondays and Thursdays.
interior (illuminate with coins in topple into the Rio dei Greci.
the meter) is Giovanni Bellini’s Inside is the matroneo –
sumptuously coloured and the gallery where, in keeping
superbly serene Madonna and with Greek Orthodox custom,
Child with Saints (1505) in the the women sat apart from the
north aisle. men. Note also the iconostasis
On the right of the church is separating the sanctuary
a door to the Chapel of St from the nave. The nearby
Athanasius, which leads to the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci, Bas relief on La Pietà’s early
Chapel of San Tarasio. The chapel redesigned in 1678, is now 20th-century façade
is decorated with vault frescoes the museum of icons of the
(1442) by Andrea del Castagno of Hellenic Institute.
4 Hotel Danieli
Riva degli Schiavoni 4196. Map 7 C2.
Tel 041 522 64 80. 4 San Zaccaria.
∑ danielihotelvenice.com
One of the most celebrated

hotels in Europe, the Danieli’s
deep-pink façade is a landmark
on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Built
in the 14th century, it became
famous as the venue for the first
opera performed in Venice,
Monteverdi’s Proserpina Rapita
Detail from The Nun’s Parlour at San Zaccaria by Francesco Guardi (1630). The palace became a
CASTELLO  117
hotel in 1822 and soon gained

popularity with the literary and
artistic set. Its famous guests
included Balzac, Proust, Dickens,
Cocteau, Ruskin, Debussy and
Wagner. In the 1830s Room 10
witnessed an episode in the
love affair between the French
poet and dramatist Alfred de
Musset, and novelist George
Sand: when de Musset fell ill
after a surfeit of orgies, Sand ran
off with her Venetian doctor.
5 Riva degli Water traffic near the luxurious Hotel Danieli on Riva degli Schiavoni
Schiavoni
Map 8 D2. 4 San Zaccaria. Michiel II was stabbed to death Inquisitors. Access to the bridge
in 1172. Three centuries earlier, is available to the public via the
The sweeping promenade in 864, Doge Pietro Tradonico Doge’s Palace (see p89).
that forms the southern had suffered the same fate in
quayside of Castello was nearby Campo San Zaccaria. 7 Museo Diocesano
named after the traders from
Dalmatia (Schiavonia) who 6 Ponte della
d’Arte Sacra
used to moor their boats and Sant’Apollonia, Ponte della
barges here. For those who Paglia and Bridge Canonica, Castello 4312. Map 7 C2.
arrive in Venice by water, this of Sighs Tel 041 277 17 02. 4 San Zaccaria.
long curving quayside is a Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Map 7 C2. 4 San Zaccaria.
spectacular introduction Closed public hols. & includes entry
to the charms of the city. The name of the Ponte della to cloisters. ∑ veneziaupt.org
At its western end, close to Paglia may derive from the
Piazza San Marco, the broad boats that once moored here to An architectural gem, the
promenade teems during the off-load their cargoes of straw cloister of Sant’Apollonia is
day with tourists thronging (paglia). Originally built in 1360, the only Romanesque building
around the souvenir stalls and the existing structure dates in the city. Only a few steps
people hurrying to and from from 1847. from St Mark’s, it provides
the vaporetto stops. Nothing According to legend, the a quiet retreat from the Piazza.
can detract, however, from the Bridge of Sighs, built in 1600 to The monastery was once
glorious views across the link the Doge’s Palace with the the home of Benedictine monks.
lagoon to the island of San New Prisons, takes its name from In 1976 its cloisters became
Giorgio Maggiore (see p99). the lamentations of the prisoners the home of the Diocesan
The Riva degli Schiavoni has as they made their way over to Museum of Sacred Art, founded
always been busy with boats. the offices of the feared State to provide a haven for works
Canaletto’s drawings in the of art from closed or
1740s and 1750s show deconsecrated churches.
the Riva bustling with The collection includes
gondolas, sailing boats and paintings, statues,
barges. The gondolas are crucifixes and many pieces
still here, but it is also of valuable silver. There are
chock-a-block with water two workshops, staffed by
taxis, vaporetti, excursion volunteers who restore the
boats and tugs. Naval ships paintings and statues.
and ocean liners can also The collection is ever-
often be seen. changing, but among
The modern annexe of the major permanent
the Hotel Danieli caused a exhibits are works by
great furore when it was Luca Giordano (1634–1705),
built in 1948. Intruding on which came from the
a waterfront graced by fine Church of Sant’Aponal,
Venetian palaces and an impressive late
mansions, its stark outline 15th-century crucifix
is still something of an from San Pietro di Castello
eyesore. The annexe marks and a 16th-century wood
the spot where Doge Vitale Ponte della Paglia behind the Bridge of Sighs and crystal tabernacle.
8Fondazione Of particular note are the Tribuna

Querini Stampalia and the Sala a Fogliami (Foliage
Room). Temporary exhibitions
Campo Santa Maria Formosa, 5252 are also held at the palazzo.
Castello. Map 7 C1. Tel 041 271 14 11.
4 San Zaccaria. Palace: Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun. = & 8 - Library:
Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
q Statue of Colleoni
7pm Sun. ∑ querinistampalia.org Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
Map 3 C5. 4 Ospedale Civile.
The large Palazzo Querini
Stampalia was commissioned Bartolomeo Colleoni, the famous
in the 16th century by the condottiere or commander of
descendants of the old Venetian mercenaries, left his fortune to
Querini family. Great art the Republic on condition that
lovers, they filled the palace his statue was placed in front of
with fine paintings. San Marco. A prominent statue
In 1868 the last member of in the Piazza would have broken
the dynasty bequeathed the with precedent, so the Senate
palace and the family collection cunningly had Colleoni raised
of art to the foundation that before the Scuola di San Marco
bears his name. The paintings instead of the basilica. A touch-
include works by Giovanni stone of early Renaissance
Bellini, Giambattista Tiepolo and sculpture, the equestrian statue
some vignettes by Pietro and Palma il Vecchio’s St Barbara in of the proud warrior (1481–8)
Alessandro Longhi. The library Santa Maria Formosa is by the Florentine Andrea
on the first floor, open to the Verrocchio and, after his death,
public, has over 200,000 books. glorifies Venice’s ideal female was cast in bronze by Alessandro
beauty. She is surrounded by Leopardi. The statue has a strong
saints, with a central lunette of sense of power and movement
9Campo Santa the pietà above. St Barbara was which arguably ranks it along-
Maria Formosa the patron saint of soldiers: in side works of Donatello.
Map 7 C1. 4 Rialto, Fondamente wartime they prayed to her for
Nuove. Church: Tel 041 275 04 62. protection; in victory they came
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. for thanksgiving. w Scuola Grande
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec.
9 & ^ ∑ chorusvenezia.org
di San Marco
0 Palazzo Grimani Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
Map 3 C5. 4 Ospedale Civile. Library:
Large, rambling and flanked by
Ramo Grimani, 4858 Castello. Map 7 Tel 041 529 43 23. Open 9:30am–1pm,
handsome palaces, this market
C1. 4 San Zaccaria, Ospedale Civile. 2–5pm Tue–Sat. Closed public hols,
square is one of the most Tel 041 520 03 45. Open 8:15am– one week in mid-Aug, 24 Dec–1 Jan.
characteristic campi of Venice. 7:15pm Tue–Sun (to 2pm Mon). Church: Open 8am–noon Mon–Sat,
On the southern side is the Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & (combined 9–10am Sun. ∑ scuolagrande
church of Santa Maria Formosa, ticket with the Ca d’Oro also available). sanmarco.it
distinctive for its swelling apses. 7 ∑ palazzogrimani.org
Built on ancient foundations, the Few hospitals can boast as rich
church was designed by Mauro Palazzo Grimani was once a and unusual a façade as that of
Coducci in 1492 but took over famous residence-museum. The Venice’s Ospedale Civile. It was
a century to assume its current building housed a fine collection built originally as one of the six
form. Unusually, it has two main of antiquities after the two great confraternities of the city
façades – one overlooking the Grimani brothers, Giovanni, (see p131). Their first headquarters
campo, the other the canal. The Patriarch of Acquileia, and were destroyed by fire in 1485,
campanile was added in 1688. Vettore, a Procurator of St Mark’s, but the Scuola was rebuilt at
Its most notable feature is the renovated their grandfather’s the end of the 15th century. The
truly grotesque stone face that palace in the mid-16th century. delightful asymmetrical façade,
decorates its foot. The result is a magnificient work with its arcades, marble panels
Inside, Palma il Vecchio’s of architecture, which combines and trompe l’oeil effects, was the
polyptych St Barbara and Saints Tuscan and Roman elements work of Pietro Lombardo working
(c.1523) ranks among the great with the original Venetian ones. in conjunction with Giovanni
Venetian masterpieces and looks The Roman courtyard and the Buora. The upper order was
particularly splendid since its monumental staircase are its fine finished by Mauro Coducci in
restoration by the American examples. Although the rooms 1495. The interior was revamped
Save Venice organization. Palma’s are unfurnished, the decoration in the 19th century and, since
portrayal of the handsome and is rich, with stuccoing, statues, then, most of the artistic master-
dignified figure of St Barbara fireplaces and stunning frescoes. pieces have been dispersed.
CASTELLO  119
The library, boasting a fine

carved 16th-century ceiling, is
now a Museum of the History
of Medicine, displaying antique
texts and instruments. The
hospital chapel, the Church
of San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti,
contains an early Tintoretto,
Saint Ursula and the 11,000
Virgins, and works by Veronese.
e Santi Giovanni
e Paolo
See pp120–21.
r Ospedaletto
Calle Barbaria delle Tole, 6691 Castello.
Map 4 D5. Tel 041 309 66 05.
4 Ospedale Civile. Open on request
(€60 for guided tour). & 8
Beyond the south flank of Santi

Giovanni e Paolo (see pp120–21)
is the façade of the Ospedaletto
or Santa Maria dei Derelitti. The The decorative façade of the Scuola Grande di San Marco
Ospedaletto was set up by the
Republic in 1527 as a charitable Andrea Palladio in 1575. Its façade Veronese’s The Holy Family with
institution to care for the sick was added in 1674 by Baldassare Saints (1562) and Antonio da
and aged, and to educate Longhena. The huge, hideous Negroponte’s Virgin and Child
orphans and abandoned girls. heads on the façade have been (c.1450). The Madonna and Child
Such an education consisted described as anti-Classical with Saints (1507) by Giovanni
largely of the study of music. abominations, likened to Bellini hangs near the cloister.
The girls performed in choirs and diseased figures and swollen
orchestras, bringing in funds for fruit. The interior of the church
the 1776 sala della musica, which is decorated with notable y San Lorenzo
became the main performance paintings from the 18th century,
Campo San Lorenzo. Map 8 D1.
venue and features frescoes by including The Sacrifice of Isaac 4 San Zaccaria. Closed for restoration.
Jacopo Guarana. (1720) by Giambattista Tiepolo.
The church, which formed part The church of San Lorenzo’s only
of the Ospedaletto, was built by claim to fame is as the alleged
t San Francesco burial place of Marco Polo (see
della Vigna p147). Unfortunately, there is
Campo della Confraternità. Map 8 E1.
nothing to show for it because
Tel 041 520 61 02. 4 Celestia. his sarcophagus disappeared
Open 8am–12:30pm, 3–6:30pm daily. during rebuilding in 1592.
In 1987 restorers
The name “della Vigna” derives discovered the foun-
from a vineyard that was dations of two earlier
bequeathed to the churches, dating from
Franciscans in 1253. AD 850 and the late
The church which 12th century. The
the order built here in foundations of the
the 13th century was present medieval
rebuilt under Jacopo structure and
Sansovino in 1534, substantial remains
with a façade added of the marble floor have
in 1562–72 by Palladio. been damaged by water
The interior has a rich Marco Polo seeping in from the
collection of works of art, adjacent canal. Restoration
Fresco by Guarana in the sala della musica including sculpture by work is planned but its future
of the Ospedaletto Alessandro Vittoria, Paolo use is as yet undecided.
e Santi Giovanni e Paolo

More familiarly known as San Zanipolo,
Santi Giovanni e Paolo vies with the Frari
(see pp106–7) as the city’s greatest Gothic
church. It was built in the late 13th to early
14th centuries by the Dominican friars, and
is striking for its huge dimensions and
architectural austerity. Known as the
Pantheon of Venice, it houses monuments
to no fewer than 25 doges. Many of these
are outstanding works, executed by the
. Cappella del Rosario
Lombardi family and other leading The Adoration of the Shepherds is one of many
sculptors of the day. works by Paolo Veronese which decorate the
Rosary Chapel.
. Tomb of Nicolò Marcello

This magnificent Renaissance monument
to Doge Nicolò Marcello (d.1474) was
sculpted by Pietro Lombardo.
KEY
1 The marble columns were

taken from a former church on the
island of Torcello.
2The doorway, which is decorated
with Byzantine reliefs, is one of the
earliest Renaissance architectural
features in Venice. The portico
carvings are attributed to
Bartolomeo Bon.
3 The sacristy has paintings that
celebrate the Dominican Order.
4 The panel by Vivarini shows
Christ Bearing the Cross (1474).
5 The bronze statue is a
monument to Doge Sebastiano
Venier, who was Commander of
the Fleet at Lepanto.
. Tomb of Pietro Mocenigo
6 The Baroque high altar is
Pietro Lombardo’s great
attributed to Baldassare Longhena.
masterpiece (1481)
7 St Catherine of Siena’s foot is commemorates the doge’s
buried here in a precious reliquary; military pursuits when he was
her relics are scattered in churches Grand Captain of the Venetian
throughout Italy. forces. This west side wall is largely
devoted to Mocenigo monuments.
CASTELLO  121
Campo Santi Giovanni e
Paolo (also signposted
San Zanipolo). Map 3 C5.
Tel 041 523 59 13. ∑ basilica
santigiovannie paolo.it
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat,
noon–6pm Sun. 5 8am &
6:30pm Mon–Sat, 9am, 11am
& 6:30pm Sun. 7 = &
Transport
4 Fondamente Nuove,
Ospedale Civile.
. Tomb of Andrea Vendramin

The nude figures of Lombardo’s
masterpiece (1476–8) were
considered unsuitable and
replaced by St Catherine and
St Mary Magdalene (side statues).
. Cappella di
San Domenico
Piazzetta’s Glory of
St Dominic for this chapel –
his only ceiling painting –
displays a mastery of The Nave
colour, perspective and The vast interior is cross-vaulted,
foreshortening. The artist held by wooden tie-beams and
had a profound influence supported by ten huge columns
on the young Tiepolo. of Istrian stone blocks.
St George Slaying the Dragon by Carpaccio, in the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni
u Scuola di San Leading the Tamed Lion to the oMuseo Storico

Giorgio degli Monastery and The Vision Navale
of St Jerome.
Schiavoni Campo San Biagio, Arsenale,
Calle Furlani, Castello 3959A. Castello 2148. Map 8 F3.
Map 8 E1. Tel 041 522 88 28. i San Giovanni Tel 041 244 13 99. 4 Arsenale.
4 San Zaccaria. Open 1:30–4:30pm in Bragora Open 8:45am–1:30pm Mon–Fri (to
1pm Sat). Closed public hols. &
Mon, 9:15am–1pm, 1:30–4:30pm Tue–
Campo Bandiera e Moro. Map 8 E2. ∑ marina.difesa.it
Sun. Closed public hols & special
Tel 041 520 59 06. 4 Arsenale.
events. & ^ It was the Austrians who, in
Open 9–11am, 3:30–5pm Mon–Sat,
9:30am–noon Sun. 1815, first had the idea of
Within this surprisingly simple assembling the remnants of
Scuola are some of the finest The foundations of this the Venetian navy and creating
paintings of Vittore Carpaccio, simple church date back to a historical naval museum. They
which were commissioned by ancient times but the existing began with a series of models
the Schiavoni community in building is essentially Gothic of vessels that had been
Venice during the 15th century. (1475–9). The intimate interior produced in the 17th century
From the earliest days of the has major works of art which by the Arsenale, and to these
Republic, Venice forged trade demonstrate the transition from added all the naval
links with the coastal region of Gothic to early Renaissance. paraphernalia they could
Schiavonia (Dalmatia) across the Bartolomeo Vivarini’s altarpiece, obtain. The exhibits include
Adriatic. By 1420 permanent Madonna and Child with Saints friezes preserved from famous
Venetian rule was established (1478), is clearly Gothic. galleys of the past, a variety of
there, and many of the Schiavoni Contrasting with this is Cima maritime firearms and a replica
came to live in Venice. By the da Conegliano’s Baptism of of the Doge’s ceremonial barge,
mid-15th century the Slav Christ (1492–5) on the main the Bucintoro.
colony in the city had grown altar. This large-scale narrative The collection has been
considerably and the State scene, in a realistic landscape, housed in an ex-warehouse on
gave permission for them to set a precedent for later the waterfront since 1958, and
found their own confraternity Renaissance painters. now traces Venetian and Italian
(see p131). naval history to the present day.
The Scuola was established in The first exhibits you see on
1451. It is a delightful spot to entering are the World War II
admire Carpaccio’s exceptional human torpedoes or “pigs”.
works of art, and has changed Torpedoes such as these
very little since the rebuilding of helped sink HMS Valiant and
the Scuola in 1551. The exquisite HMS Queen Elizabeth: they were
canvasses, executed between guided to their target by naval
1502 and 1508, show scenes divers who jumped off just
from the lives of favourite saints: before impact.
St George, St Tryphon and The rest of the museum
St Jerome. Each episode of the is divided into the Venetian
narrative cycle is remarkable navy, the Italian navy from
for its vivid colouring, minutely 1860 to today, Adriatic vessels
observed detail and historic and the Swedish room. The
record of Venetian life. Outstand- museum is well laid out and
ing among them are St George Model of the Bucintoro in has informative explanations
Slaying the Dragon, St Jerome the Museo Storico Navale in English.
CASTELLO  123
p Arsenale
Map 8 F1. 4 Arsenale.
Limited public access.
Heart of the city’s maritime

power, the Arsenale was
founded in the 12th century
and enlarged in the 14th to 16th
centuries to become the greatest
naval shipyard in the world.
The word “arsenal” derives from
the Arabic darsina’a, house of
industry – which indeed it was.
At its height in the 16th
century, a workforce of 16,000, Entrance to the Arsenale, guarded by 16th-century towers
the arsenalotti, was employed to
construct, equip and repair the for the Byzantine emperor Some parts of the Arsenale,
great Venetian galleys (see pp48– against some Greek rebels. such as the Corderie, the old
9). One of the first production By the 17th century, when the rope factory, are now being
lines in Europe, it was like a city seeds of Venetian decline were used as performance spaces
within a city, with its own work well and truly sown, the number or exhibition centres, mostly
shops, warehouses, factories, of arsenalotti plummeted to for the Biennale (see p260). A
foundries and docks. Surrounded 1,000. Following the Fall of the research consortium developing
by crenellated walls, the site Republic in 1797, Napoleon marine and coastal technologies
today is largely abandoned. destroyed the docks and also operates from the Arsenale.
The huge gateway and vast stripped the Bucintoro (the
site are the only evidence Doge’s ceremonial ship) of its
of its former splendour. The precious ornament. Cannons
The Assembly-Line
gateway, in the form of a and bronzes were melted System
triumphal arch, was built in down to contribute to victory
1460 by Antonio Gambello and monuments celebrating the
is often cited as Venice’s first French Revolution.
Renaissance construction. Today the area is under
The two lions guarding the military administration and for
entrance were pillaged from the most part closed to the
Piraeus (near Athens) by Admiral public. The bridge by the
Francesco Morosini in 1687. arched gateway affords partial The arsenalotti, master shipbuilders
A third lion, bald and sitting views of the shipyard, or try of the 16th century
upright, bears runic inscriptions taking a scenic trip on a
on his haunches, thought to have vaporetto (either route 4.1 During the Arsenale’s heyday,
been carved by Scandinavian or 4.2), which follows the a Venetian galley could be
mercenaries who in 1040 fought perimeter of the Arsenal. constructed and fully
equipped with remarkable
Lagoon entrance Arsenale Novissimo, speed and efficiency. From
15th–16th century the early 16th century the
hulls, which were built in the
New Arsenal, were towed
past a series of buildings in
Old sail the Old Arsenal to be
factory equipped in turn with
rigging, ammunition and
food supplies. By 1570, when
Venice was faced with the
Turkish threat to take Cyprus,
the Arsenale was so fast it
was capable of turning out
an entire galley in 24 hours.
Henry III of France witnessed
Arsenale the system’s efficiency in
Vecchio, 1574 when the arsenalotti
12th–13th Arsenale Nove, completed a galley in the
century 14th century time it took for him to
Corderia partake in a State feast.
Late 18th-century engraving of the Arsenale
a Exploring Eastern Castello

This peaceful stroll takes you from the animated
Castello quayside to the quieter eastern limits of
the city. The focal point of the tour is the solitary
island of San Pietro di Castello, site of the former
cathedral of Venice. From here you head south to
the island of Sant’Elena with its historic church and
Venice’s football stadium, and return via the public
gardens along the scenic waterfront.
Then take the first on the y The calm and leafy Giardini Pubblici
left, marked “Calle San
Gioachin”, cross a small
TTA
CALL
E LA
RGA
SALIZZADA STRE
DE C
bridge and turn left at the ASTEL
LO
“crossroads”. Once you are past

Campo Ruga 5, take the
Cana
second turning on the right and
FMTA RIE
Ri o de
5
Rio San Dan

cross the bridge over the broad
le
tt o
Canale di San Pietro.
LLO
di
C
Tana
CR
lla
iele
OC
de NA
Ri
TA
el
ERA
Rio LLA
lo
DE
C NU
TA DI
FM TE
GIOCHIN PON E
S LL
F M TA AVA
O
t'A nna
4 Rio diNASan INT
VA
QU
i A tribute to the women I
FO ND SA NT 'AN
0
S R
ARI BALD
B I I VA VIA G
AG
fallen in World War II 3
C CO PP
IO
CALLE CORRERA
CALLE TIEPOLO
1
SHI AV ON A
PED RO CCH
2
CA LLE SA
O
Via Garibaldi
C
VIALE
CO RT E SA
CA LL E DE E
RI
This broad, busy street 1 was VA
I
FU RL AN
RT
DE
NA
NN
RI
E
I
CO
N DO ME
LL
SE
The
LO
created by Napoleon in 1808 by

GARIB
TT MA
CA
CO
E O
RE SIN
M CC PE
LL E
AR
filling in a canal. The first house Island of TI
RI
SE
GI
US
EP
NIC
N
SA e
San Pietro
ALDI
on the right 2 was the home of sep

p
O
u
Gi
TA n
John Cabot and his son di Castello EN
AM i S
a
F O N Di o d q
Sebastian, the Italian navigators The old church of San R
A
RR E
TE SEPP
who in 1497 found what they Pietro di Castello 6 and its GIARDINI
RIOGIU
N
SA
thought to be the coast of China freestanding, tilting campanile R
PUBBLICI
NIO
IV TO
AN
(but in reality was the Labrador 7 overlook a grassy square. Giardini A
D L UD
OS
E PA
coast of Newfoundland). Near The island, once occupied by
i
I
PA
the end of the street, through a a fortress (castello), was one of

IA
BIENNALE
RT
LE
IG
INTERNAZIONALE
gate on the right, a bronze Venice’s earliest settlements. Chapel, the
IA
TR
D'ARTE
y
N
EN
I
monument of Garibaldi 3 by The church, which was Vendramin u

TO
Augusto Benvenuti (1885) marks probably founded in the 7th Chapel and the
the northern end of the Viale century, became the cathedral marble throne from
Garibaldi, which leads to the of Venice and remained so until an Arabic tombstone,
public gardens. 1807, when San Marco took its originally said to have
Returning to Via Garibaldi, place (see p82). The existing been the Seat of St Peter.
take the left-hand embankment church, built to a Palladian In the south of the square,
at the end of the street, pausing design in the mid-16th century, Mauro Coducci’s elegant stone
on the bridge 4 for distant has several notable features. campanile was built in 1482–8,
views of the Arsenale (see p123). These include the Lando and the cupola was added in
1670. Beside the church, the
Palazzo Patriarcale (Bishop’s
Palace) 8 was turned into
barracks by Napoleon. The old
cloisters are overgrown and
strung with washing and
fishing nets.
From the Bishop’s Palace,
take the Calle drio il Campanile
south from the square and turn
left when you come to the
canal. The first turning right
2 The busy Via Garibaldi, with John Cabot’s house on the far right takes you across the Ponte di
CASTELLO  125
Quintavalle 9, a wooden
bridge with good views
of brightly coloured boats
anchored on either side of
the waterway.
San Pietro to Sant’Elena

The large and semi-derelict
building at the foot of the
bridge is the ex-church and
monastery of Sant’Anna 0. Take
the first left off the fonda
menta, cross Campiello
Correr and then take
CAMPO
SAN
PIETRO
Calle Tiepolo and
6 cross the Secco
7 Marina. Continue 7 The island of San Pietro, with its curious leaning campanile
8
straight ahead and over
the bridge for the street ahead. A right turn along Giardini brings you to the
Church of San Giuseppe Viale Quattro 4 Novembre brings public gardens and to the
QU
FM AVA
IN
q. On the rare occasions you down to the spacious gar- Biennale gate entrance y.
T
TA LL
it is open you can see dens of Parco delle Rimembranze If it happens to be summer
E
Vincenzo Scamozzi’s e. At the southern end of the in an odd-numbered year, the

9 monument to Doge Marino park, cut left at Calle Buccari r, gardens will be open with the
Grimani (1595–1605). Cross then right for the bridge over Biennale pavilions u, at which
the square beyond the Rio di Sant’Elena. In front, the 40 to 50 nations exhibit
Sa
n
church and zigzag left, right Church of Sant’Elena t many examples of

and left again for Paludo San is a pretty Gothic contemporary art
Pi
et
Antonio, an uninspiring church founded in (see p260).

ro
modern street that has been the 13th century.

reclaimed from marshland Retrace your steps Riva dei
(palude). At the far end over the bridge Partigiani
cross the bridge over the and turn left, Outside the
t Detail from Gothic façade
Rio dei Giardini w following the public gardens
w of Sant’Elena
and take the waterfront back on Riva dei
through the park. Partigiani is a large bronze
statue. Lying on the steps
Giardini Pubblici and the of the embankment, the
BRE
Biennale Pavilions monument can only be

Giardini
OVEM
At the far side of the park, the seen at low tide. Known as
bridge across the Rio dei La Donna Partigiana, this is a
TRO N
memorial to all the women

dei
CAL LE OSLA VIA

Q U AT
who were killed fighting in

Rio
FOND
World War II i.
CA
VIALE
LL
ED
VIAL
AMEN
EL
Ri o
SA
C PODGORA
Tips for Walkers
BO
CAMPO
TA S A
IN
E PIA
di
SPORTIVO
T
e
O
CAMPO
CHINOTTO DELLA Starting point: The western end
NT'EL
C GEN
S El en
CA CHIESA
VE
of Via Garibaldi.
LLA
LL
E Z
U
ENA t
E
G NA
ENA
Length: Just under 5 km

AR
L
T'E
a
SAN
SS
LE
TO
PA
VIA (3 miles).
RE
F
PARCO
LLE
VE
D ELLE Getting there: Vaporetto No. 1,

CA
RO
R IM EMBRANZ E r
VIAL
4.1 or 4.2 to Arsenale.

RI
C
CA
Stopping-off points: There are

UC
CB
V
E PIA
IA
VI
E AL a handful of simple cafés and
L
VI EQ CAMPO
UA
TT
O
RI
TT
RO
SPORTIVO
trattorias along the route; most
NO
VE
O
VE VE
M
of them are found on Via
NE BR
TO E
Garibaldi. The waterside Caffè
Paradiso at the entrance to the
Giardini Pubblici has excellent
Sant’ Elena
views. The green shady parks
are a welcome retreat from the
bustle of the city, and are
0 metres 200 Key perfect for picnicking.
0 yards 200 Walk route

Sights at a Glance
Churches
6 Santa Maria dei Carmini
7 San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
8 Angelo Raffaele
9 San Sebastiano
w San Trovaso
e Santa Maria della Visitazione
r Gesuati
i Santa Maria della Salute
Museums and Galleries

3 Ca’ Rezzonico
t Accademia see pp134–7
y Peggy Guggenheim Collection
o Punta della Dogana
Historic Buildings
5 Scuola Grande dei Carmini
q Squero di San Trovaso
Streets, Bridges and Squares

1 Campo San Barnaba
2 Ponte dei Pugni
4 Campo Santa Margherita
0 Zattere
u Campiello Barbaro
FONDAMENTA DELLE
PROCURATIE
FM TA
FONDAMENTA DEI
Rio del
DELL'ARZIERE
Tintor
GUA
C A LL D IA N I
R
E D.
TA
FMTA B E N ele
AR B AR IG O A M ff a
Nico
lò F O N D elo Ra
di Sa
n FMT R d. A n g
FM TA
P E S C HA D I
SEBA
Rio ERIA
S T IA
CORTE
S A NN O
LARDONA CAMPO
ANGELO
RAFFAELE
SAL
SAN
BA
SE
GI
O
San
Basílio
Madonna del Carmelo by Tiepolo on the

ceiling of the hall of the Scuola Grande
dei Carmini
DORSODURO
Dorsoduro is named after the solid subsoil from the eastern tip near the Salute and
on which this area has been built up (the from the Zattere across to the island of
name means “hard backbone”). The western Giudecca. West of the Accademia, the
part, the island of Mendigola, was colonized sestiere is more vibrant, with the busy
centuries before the Rialto was established Campo Santa Margherita as its attractive
in AD 828 as the permanent seat of Venice. focal point. Further west, the shabbier area
The settlement then spread eastwards, around the beautiful church of San Nicolò
covering another six islands. dei Mendicoli was originally the home of
East of the Accademia, the Dorsoduro is fishermen and sailors. The Dorsoduro plays
a quiet and pretty neighbourhood with host to several major collections of art,
shaded squares, quiet canals and notably the Accademia Gallery and the
picturesque residences belonging to Peggy Guggenheim Collection of
wealthy Venetians and foreigners. In the 20th-century art. The churches are also rich
early 1900s the area was favoured by British repositories of paintings and sculpture: San
expatriates who used to attend the Sebastiano has fine paintings by Paolo
Anglican church of St George in Campo Veronese; the Scuola Grande dei Carmini
San Vio. Among the area’s attractions are and the church of the Gesuati have ceilings
the wide-embracing lagoon views, both painted by Giambattista Tiepolo.
Restaurants see p245

1 Agli Alboretti
2 Ai Gondolieri
3 La Bitta
4 Lineadombra
I 5 Osteria Da Codruma
SE
GU 6 Pizzeria ae Oche
RA
A
ERI RG
C ER
C
LA 7 Ristorante La Riviera
CA
8 Ristoteca Oniga
C ALL E RA G
LLE
NU
F M T B r ia t i
OV
9 La Rivista
R
A
io
A R
10 Taverna San Trovaso

OSS
CAMPO
U
a
rit
SEI
INI h e SANTA
SC A R rg
O
A
FM TA FO di S. Ma MARGHERITA
SE
O N L L E L'A
TI Rio
BRIA
S A C A DEL
CCORSO 120m
DEL SO
C.
FMTA
I
ER
R. TERRA SANT'APONAL
R. TERRA
CANAL
CA LL E
BE RN AR
DO
F M TA G H E
RARD
Rio
INI Rio di Sa
n Barn
a ba
CALLE L UNGA
S A N B A R N AB A CALLE DEL TRA Ca'
GHETTO
CAMPO Rezzonico
dell'A
SQUERO Ri o M a l p ag a
Rio M alpaga C D.CERCHIERI
vog
D I e Er e m I T E
ari
FO
T A d e ll . E R E M
ite
ND
RGO
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TA va
BO
F M io T A D
Ri O
o r
FM o GN
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O IS Accademia
TA gn S
R M
ZA i s s AN
F
IU
TT a n TI See also Street Finder

PR
FMS a n
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PO
NT TA D. CARITA maps 5, 6, 7
E BO
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Salute
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FMTA
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0 metres 250
0 yards 250

Street-by-Street: Dorsoduro
Between the imposing palaces on the Grand
Canal and the Campo Santa Margherita lies
an almost silent neighbourhood of small
squares and narrow alleys. The delightful
Rio San Barnaba is best appreciated from the
Ponte dei Pugni, near the barge selling fruit
and vegetables. The Rio Terrà, though
A
architecturally uninspiring, has a fascinating
RIT
mask shop and some cafés that are lively at
HE
nighttime. All roads seem to lead to Campo
RG
Santa Margherita, the heart of Dorsoduro.
MA
The square bustles with activity, particularly
A
in the morning, when the market stalls C D
EL
NT
5 . Scuola Grande
PIS
are functioning.
SA
TO
dei Carmini R
DI
Tiepolo painted nine
ceiling panels for the
RIO
Scuola in 1739–44. C D
CAF
The central panel FE TTI
ER
features the Virgin
RIT A
and St Simeon Stock. CD
HE NT
A
EL
FO
RG SA
RN
O
M AM P O
CA
Palazzo Zenobio has
been an Armenian college
since 1850. Occasionally visitors
can see the sumptuous T
18th-century ballrooom. MP
O R T SAN
C ADEI NI
I
RM
CA
CALL
R T SCOAZ
E D P
6 Santa Maria dei Carmini

The church’s oldest feature is the
AZIENZA
Gothic side porch with fragments

ZER
of decorative Byzantine reliefs.

A
A
RNAB
AN BA DINI
RIO S G H ERAR
A
Key MENT
F ONDA
Suggested route
ABA
BARN
G A SAN
C LUN
0 metres 50 Fondamenta Gherardini

0 yards 50 runs beside the Rio
San Barnaba, one of
the prettiest canals in
the sestiere.
DORSODURO  129
4 Campo Santa Margherita

Open-air cafés and bars, as well as San polo and
SanTa croce
shops and market stalls, are an
integral part of the square, which
San marco
forms the social heart of Dorsoduro.
dorSoduro
Locator Map
A
IES
Palazzo Giustinian
H
RIO is the 15th-century

A C
DI palace where Richard

CA
LL
’F
OS
Wagner stayed while he
E
CA was writing the second

C D
RI
act of Tristan and Isolde
in 1858.
O E
AS
I
ER
C D
ON
Ca’ Foscari, with its

A
RI
C S
C D splendid setting,
EL
SCA
MA was chosen as the

GA
CANAL
ZE lodging place for

O
N
C F
Henry III of France

in 1574.
GRANDE
C DELLA V
L
APONA O
RNARD
CALLE BE Palazzo Nani is
IDA
one of the fine

C D BOTTEGHE
R T CA
palaces that lie

on the great
curve called the
NAL
Volta del Canal.
Ca’ Rezzonico
O
CAMP
SAN A ETTO
B AGH
BA R N A DEL TR
CALLE
2 Ponte dei Pugni

Vicious fistfights used to
take place on the top of
this bridge.
1 . San Barnaba
A floating barge crammed 3 . Ca’ Rezzonico
with crates of fruit and The grand stairway has
vegetables lends a two putti, symbolizing
colourful note to the area. winter and autumn.
1 Campo San
Barnaba
Map 6 D3. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico.
The Parish of San Barnaba,
with its canalside square at the
centre, was known in the 18th
century as the home of
impoverished Venetian
patricians. They were attracted
by the cheap rents, and while
some relied on State support
or begging, others worked in
the State gambling house.
Today the square and canal,
with its vegetable barge, are Tiepolo’s New World fresco, part of a series in Ca’ Rezzonico
quietly appealing. The church
(open am Mon–Sat) is fairly 3 Ca’ Rezzonico Browning and his son, Pen,
unremarkable, apart from a Fondamenta Rezzonico 3136.
who was married to an
Tiepolesque ceiling, although its Map 6 E3. Tel 041 241 01 00. 4 Ca’ American heiress. Browning
façade was shown in Indiana Rezzonico. Open 10am–6pm Wed– spoke of the “gaiety and comfort
Jones and the Last Crusade. Mon (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, of the enormous rooms” but
1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ 9 = 7 - had little time to enjoy them.
∑ carezzonico.visitmuve.it In 1889, he died of bronchitis.
2 Ponte dei Pugni The outstanding attraction
Fondamenta Gherardini.
This richly furnished Baroque in the palace today is Giorgio
Map 6 D3. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico. palace is one of the most Massari’s ballroom, which
splendid in Venice. It is also occupies the entire breadth
Venice has several Ponti dei one of the few palaces in of the building. It has been
Pugni (“bridges of fists”), but this the city, which opens its beautifully restored and is
is the most famous. Spanning doors to the public. Since embellished with gilded
the peaceful Rio San Barnaba, 1934 it has housed chandeliers, carved
the small bridge is distinguished the museum of furniture by Andrea
by two pairs of footprints set in 18th-century Venice, Brustolon and a
white stone on top of the its rooms furnished ceiling with trompe
bridge. These mark the starting with frescoes, l’oeil frescoes. Three
positions for the fights which paintings and rooms between the
traditionally took place between period pieces taken ballroom and Grand
rival factions. Formerly there from other local palaces Canal side of the palace
were no balustrades and or museums. have ceilings with
contenders hurled each other The building was frescoes by Giambattista
straight into the water. The begun by Baldassare Tiepolo, including, in
battles became so bloodthirsty Longhena (architect Allegory of Strength, the Sala della Allegoria
that they were banned in 1705. of La Salute, see p139) Andrea Brustolon Nuziale, his lively
in 1667, but the funds Nuptial Allegory (1758).
of the Bon family, who Eighteenth-century paintings
commissioned it, ran dry before occupy the piano nobile (second
the second floor was started. floor). A whole room is devoted
In 1712, long after Longhena’s to Pietro Longhi’s portrayals of
death, the unfinished palace everyday Venetian life. Other
was bought by the Rezzonicos, paintings worthy of note are
a family of merchants-turned- Francesco Guardi’s Ridotto
bankers from Genoa. A large (1748) and Nuns’ Parlour (1768),
portion of the Rezzonico fortune and one of the few Canalettos
was spent on the purchase, in Venice, his View of the Rio
construction and decoration dei Mendicanti (1725).
of the palace. By 1758 it was in Giandomenico Tiepolo’s
a fit state for the Rezzonicos to fascinating series of frescoes
throw the first of the huge painted for his villa at Zianigo
banquets and celebratory (1770–1800) are also to be
parties for which they later found here. On the floor above
became renowned. is a reconstructed 18th-century
Boats and barges moored along the In 1888 the palace was apothecary’s shop and a
Rio San Barnaba bought by the poet Robert puppet theatre.
DORSODURO  131
4Campo Santa building in the centre of the 6 Santa Maria

Margherita square, has a faded relief of dei Carmini
the Madonna della Misericordia
Map 6 D2. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico. protecting the tanners. Campo Carmini. Map 5 C3. Tel 041
The sprawling square of 522 65 53. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico or San
Basilio. Open 2:30–5pm Mon–Sat.
Santa Margherita, lined with
houses from the 14th and 5 Scuola Grande Known also as Santa Maria dei
15th centuries, is the lively hub dei Carmini Carmelo, this church was built
of western Dorsoduro. Market in the 14th century but has since
Campo Carmini. Map 5 C2.
stalls, offbeat shops and Tel 041 528 94 20. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico.
undergone extensive alterations.
cafés attract many young Open 11am–5pm daily. The most prominent external
people. The fish stalls sell live Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ feature is the lofty campanile,
eels and lobster, the erborista ∑ scuolagrandecarmini.it whose perilous tilt was
alternative medicine, and the skilfully rectified in 1688.
bakers some of the tastiest The headquarters of The impressive interior
loaves in Venice. the Carmelite is large, sombre and
The former church of Santa confraternity was richly decorated.
Margherita, now an auditorium built beside The arches of the
owned by the university, lies to their church nave are adorned
the north of the square. Visitors in 1663. In with gilded
can see sculptural fragments the 1740s wooden statues,
from the original 18th-century Giambattista and a series
church, including gargoyles, Tiepolo was of paintings
on the truncated campanile commissioned illustrating the
and adjacent house. The to decorate the Santa Maria dei Carmini history of the
Scuola dei Varotari (“Scuola of ceiling of the Carmelite Order.
the Tanners”), the isolated salone (hall) on the upper floor. There are two interesting
The nine ceiling paintings that paintings in the church’s side
he produced so impressed the altars. Cima da Conegliano’s
Carmelites that Tiepolo was Adoration of the Shepherds
promptly made an honorary (c.1509) is in the second altar on
member of the brotherhood. the right (coins in the light meter
The ceiling shows St Simeon are essential). In the second altar
Stock Receiving the Scapular of on the left is Lorenzo Lotto’s
the Carmelite Order from the St Nicholas of Bari with Saints Lucy
Virgin. The Carmelites honoured and John the Baptist (c.1529).
St Simeon Stock because he re- This painting demonstrates
established the order in Europe the artist’s religious devotion,
after its expulsion from the Holy personal sensitivity and his love
Land in the 13th century. of nature. On the right-hand
The archive rooms also side of this highly detailed,
contain remarkable art and almost Dutch-style landscape,
elaborate woodwork, with there is a tiny depiction of
ceiling and wall paintings by St George killing the dragon.
A 15th-century carving of Santa Margherita Giustino Menescardi and To the right is a small Holy
and the dragon caryatids by Giacomo Piazzetta. Family by Paolo Veronese.
Scuole
The scuole were peculiarly
Venetian institutions. Founded
mainly in the 13th century, they
were lay confraternities existing
for the charitable benefit of the
neediest groups of society, the
professions or resident ethnic
minorities (such as the Scuola
degli Schiavoni, see p122).
Some became extremely
rich, spending large sums
on buildings and paintings,
often to the disadvantage
of their declared beneficiaries.
Upper Hall of the Scuola Grande dei Carmini
9 San Sebastiano
Campo San Sebastiano. Map 5 C3.
Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 San Basilio.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec.
& ^ 9 ∑ chorusvenezia.org
This 16th-century church has

one of the most colourful and
homogeneous interiors of
Venice. This is thanks to the
artist Veronese, who, from 1555
to 1560 and again in the 1570s,
was commissioned to decorate
the sacristy ceiling, the nave
ceiling, the frieze, the east end
of the choir, the high altar, the
doors of the organ panels and
the chancel – in that order. The
paintings, which are typical of
Veronese, are rich and radiant,
with sumptuous costumes and
colours. Among the finest of his
works are the three ceiling
paintings that tell the story
of Esther, Queen of Xerxes I of
Persia, who brought about
the deliverance of the Jewish
people. Appropriately, the artist
is buried in San Sebastiano,
alongside the organ.
Nave of San Nicolò dei Mendicoli, one of the oldest churches in Venice
0 Zattere
7San Nicolò dei interior is richly embellished, Map 5 C4. 4 Zattere or San Basilio.
Mendicoli particularly the nave with its
16th-century gilded wood Stretching along the southern
Campo San Nicolò. Map 5 A3.
Tel 041 275 03 82. 4 San Basilio.
statues. On the upper walls is part of the sestiere, the Zattere
Open 10am–noon, 3–5:30pm Mon– a series of paintings of the life is the long quayside looking
Sat, 9am–noon Sun & public hols. of Christ by Alvise dal Friso and across to the island of Giudecca.
other pupils of Veronese. The name derives from the rafts
Contrasting with the remote and (zattere) made of and carrying
run-down area that surrounds it, timber from the Republic’s
this church remains one of the 8 Angelo Raffaele forests. After skilful navigation
most charming and delightful Campo Angelo Raffaele. Map 5 B3.
along the River Piave, the rafts
in Venice. Originally constructed Tel 041 522 85 48. 4 San Basilio.
in the 12th century, it has been Open 10am–noon, 3–5:30pm Mon–
rebuilt extensively over the Sat, 9am–noon Sun & public hols.
centuries; the little porch on
the north flank dates from the The main attraction of this
15th century. 17th-century church is the
Thanks to the Venice in Peril series of panel paintings on
Fund, in the 1970s the church the organ balustrade. These
underwent one of the most were executed in 1749 by
comprehensive restoration Antonio Guardi, brother of
programmes since the floods the more famous Francesco.
of 1966 (see p54). The floor, They tell the tale of Tobias,
which was 30 cm (1 ft) below the blind prophet cured
the level of the canals, was by the archangel
rebuilt and raised slightly to Raphael, after whom
prevent further damage, the the church is named.
roofs and lower walls were
reconstructed, and paintings San Sebastiano, viewed from
and statues restored. The the bridge of the same name
DORSODURO  133
the right of the façade is

one of several “lion’s mouth”
denunciation boxes surviving
from the rule of the Council
of Ten (see p46); this one was
used to complain about the
state of the streets.
r Gesuati
Fondamenta delle Zattere. Map 6 E4.
Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Zattere. Open
10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan,
Café tables laid out along the Zattere Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^
were dismantled on arrival in of the rival factions of the
Venice. On a sunny day it is a Castellani and Nicolotti families, Not to be confused with the
pleasure to sit at a waterside and tradition has it that this Gesuiti (see p146), this church
café here, looking across to necessitated a separate was built by the Dominicans,
the Church of the Redentore entrance for each party. who took possession of the
(see p158) or watching the The interior houses some late site in the 17th century,
waterbuses as they cross back paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, when the Gesuati Order
and forth between the shores. and there are two notable was suppressed. Work
works of art worth seeking began in 1726 and the
out. Michele Giambono’s stately façade reflects
q Squero di 15th-century Gothic painting, that of Palladio’s
San Trovaso St Chrysogonus on Horseback, Redentore
Rio San Trovaso. Map 6 D4. 4 is situated in the chapel on church across
Zattere. No public access. the right of the chancel, and the Giudecca.
exquisite marble reliefs of It is the most
This is one of the few surviving angels with instruments conspicuous
gondola workshops in Venice decorate the altar of the Clary landmark of
(see pp32–3), and the most chapel opposite. the long
picturesque. Its Tyrolean look Zattere
dates from the days when quayside.
craftsmen came down from e Santa Maria della The interior of
the Cadore area of the Visitazione the church is
Dolomites (see p221). Fondamenta delle Zattere. Map 6 E4.
richly decorated. Gesuati façade
It is not open to the public, Tel 041 522 40 77. 4 Zattere. Tiepolo’s statue
but from the far side of the Rio Open during the Biennale, and frescoed ceiling, The
San Trovaso it is possible to on request. Life of St Dominic (1737–39),
watch the upturned gondolas demonstrates the artist’s
being given their scraping and Situated beside the Gesuati, this mastery of light and colour.
tarring treatment. Nowadays, Renaissance church was built Equally impressive (and far
only around 10 boats are between 1494 and 1524 by the easier to see) is his Virgin with
made each year, but there is Order of the Gesuati. Inside the Saints (1740), situated in the
still plenty to see. church is a fine wooden ceiling first chapel on the right. The
painted by 16th-century church also boasts two altar
Umbrian and Tuscan artists. paintings by Sebastiano Ricci
w San Trovaso The exterior bocca di leone to and Giambattista Piazzetta.
Campo San Trovaso. Map 6 D4.
Tel 041 522 21 33. 4 Zattere or
Accademia. Open 8–11am, 2:30–
5:30pm Mon–Sat, 8–11am Sun.
The church of Santi Gervasio e

Protasio, which in the eccentric
Venetian dialect is slurred to
“San Trovaso”, was built in 1590.
Unusually it has two identical
façades, one overlooking a
canal, the other a quiet square.
The church stood on neutral
ground between the parishes Squero di San Trovaso, where gondolas are given a face-lift
t Accademia
The largest collection of Venetian art in
existence, the Gallerie dell’Accademia is
housed in three former religious buildings.
The basis of the collection was the
Accademia di Belle Arti, founded in 1750
by the painter Giambattista Piazzetta. In 1807
Napoleon moved the academy to these
premises and the collection was greatly
enlarged by works of art from the churches
and monasteries that he suppressed.
The Apothecary’s Shop
Pietro Longhi is best known for
his witty, gently satirical
depictions of domestic 13
patrician life in Venice. This 12
detail comes from a painting
dated c.1752.
14
16
16a
15
17
20
. The Tempest (c.1507)
In his enigmatic landscape,
Giorgione was probably indulging
his imagination rather than portraying
a specific subject. 18
19 21
Key to Floorplan
23 22
Byzantine and International Gothic
Early Renaissance
High Renaissance
Baroque, genre and landscapes 24
Ceremonial paintings
Innovation
Non-exhibition space
The Ground-floor Galleries
Gallery Guide
The current programme of restoration work
is ongoing; be prepared for absent paintings
or closed off sections. It is sensible to phone
ahead. The paintings are dependent on natural
light, so try to visit on a bright morning. The
recently added ground-floor galleries are The former Church of Sala dell’Albergo
thematically arranged, while upstairs a second Santa Maria della
gallery called Quadreria contains works by Carità was rebuilt by
artists such as Bellini. Guided visits are free of Bartolomeo Bon in the
charge but it is essential to book in advance. mid-15th century. Entrance
ACCADEMIA  135
The inner courtyard VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

was designed by
Andrea Palladio. Practical Information
Campo della Carità. Map 6 E3.
Tel 041 520 03 45. Open 8:15am–
7pm daily (to 2pm Mon). Last
adm: 45 mins before closing.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& ^ 9 8 Quadreria:
Open Fri am. 8 =
∑ gallerieaccademia.org
11
Transport
4 Accademia.
The Stealing of St Mark

Jacopo Tintoretto’s painting of
1562 shows the Christians of
Alexandria abducting the body
10 of St Mark, which was about to
be burned by the pagans.
6 9
Ceiling Sketch
5 Tiepolo’s The
8 Translation of
the Holy House
4
to Loreto (c.1742)
3 7 was a sketch for
the ceiling of the
Scalzi church
2
(see p149).
. Cycle of St Ursula
(1495–1500) (detail)
The Arrival of the English Ambassadors is one of Vittore
Carpaccio’s eight paintings chronicling the tragic story
of St Ursula.
. Coronation of the Virgin

Paolo Veneziano’s polyptych (1325) has a central
image of the Virgin surrounded by a panoply of
religious scenes. This detail shows episodes from
the Life of St Francis.
Exploring the Accademia’s Collection

Spanning five centuries, the fascinating collection of paintings
in the Accademia provides a complete spectrum of the
Venetian school, from the medieval Byzantine period through
the Renaissance to the Baroque and Rococo (see pp30–31).
Upstairs, the order is more or less chronological, while the
downstairs rooms are arranged thematically.
and Rome. The Bellini family –

Byzantine and Jacopo, the father, and his two
International Gothic sons Gentile and Giovanni –
Room 1 shows the influence played a dominant role in the Portrait of a Gentleman (c.1525) by Lorenzo
of Byzantine art on the early early Venetian Renaissance. Lotto (detail)
Venetian painters. Paolo Central to Venetian art in the
Veneziano, the true founder of 15th century was the Sacra was the enigmatic Lorenzo
the Venetian school, displays a Conversazione, where the Lotto, best known for portraits
blend of both Western and Madonna is portrayed in a conveying moods of psycho-
Eastern influences in his unified composition with saints. logical unrest. His melancholic
sumptuous Coronation of Giovanni Bellini’s altarpiece Portrait of a Gentleman (c.1525)
the Virgin (1325). The linear for San Giobbe (c.1487) in in Room 7 is a superb example.
rhythms are quite Room 2 is one of the finest More in the Venetian tradition,
unmistakably Gothic, yet examples. Giovanni, the Palma il Vecchio’s sumptuously
the overall effect and the younger Bellini, was coloured Sacra Conversazione in
glowing gold background profoundly influenced Room 8, painted around the
are distinctly Byzantine. by the controlled same time, shows the
In the same room, rational style and unmistakable influence of
Coronation of the mastery of the early work of Titian.
Virgin (1448) by perspective in
Michele the works of his
Giambono shows brother-in-law, High Renaissance
the influence of Andrea Mantegna, Occupying an entire wall of
International Gothic Coronation of the Virgin (c.1448) whose work Room 10, the monumental Feast
style, which was by Michele Giambono St George (c.1460) in the House of Levi by Paolo
brought to Venice is in Room 23. Veronese (1573) was originally
by Gentile da Fabriano To Mantegna’s rationality and commissioned as The Last
and Pisanello. This particular harsh realism Giovanni added Supper. However, the hedonistic
style was characterized by humanity. This is seen in his detail in the painting, such as the
delicate naturalistic detail, Madonna paintings (Rooms 4 drunkard and the dwarfs, was not
as typified by the birds and and 23), which are masterpieces well received and Veronese found
animals in the foreground of warmth and harmony. himself before the Inquisition.
of Giambono’s painting. Outstanding examples are Ordered to eliminate the profane
The Virgin and Child between content of the picture, he simply
St Catherine and St Mary changed the title.
Early Renaissance Magdalene (c.1490) in Room 4; Jacopo Tintoretto made his
The Renaissance came late to and Virgin and Child with John reputation with The Miracle of the
Venice, but by the second the Baptist and a Saint (c.1505) Slave (1548), which is also in
quarter of the 15th century it had in Room 4. Room 10. The painting shows his
transformed the city into an art Out on a limb from the main mastery of the dramatic effects
centre rivalling those of Florence 16th-century Venetian tradition of light and movement. This was
Paolo Veronese’s Feast in the House of Levi (detail) (1573)

ACCADEMIA  137
the first of a series of works

painted for the Scuola Grande di
San Marco (see p118). In the same
room, Veronese’s use of rich
colour is best seen in the Mystical
Marriage of St Catherine (c.1575).
The Rape of Europa (1740–50) by Francesco

Zuccarelli (detail) Healing of the Madman (c.1496) by Vittore Carpaccio
Gentile Bellini, it is possible to

compare the square with how Sala dell’Albergo
Baroque, Genre and it looks today. When the Scuola della Carità
Landscapes Another, Vittore Carpaccio’s became the site of the Academy
Venice suffered from a lack of Healing of the Madman (c.1496), of Art in the early 19th century,
native Baroque painters, but a shows the Rialto Bridge which the Scuola’s albergo (where
few non-Venetians kept the collapsed in 1524. students lodged) retained its
Venetian school alive in the The second series, minutely original panelling and 15th-
17th century. The most notable detailed Scenes from the Legend century ceiling. The huge
among these was the Genoese of St Ursula (1490s) by Carpaccio Presentation of the Virgin (1538) is
Bernardo Strozzi (1581–1644). in Room 21, provides a brilliant one of the surprisingly few Titians
The artist was a great admirer of kaleidoscope of life. in the gallery. The walls are also
the work of Veronese, as can be adorned with a grandiose
seen in his Feast at the House of triptych (1446) by Antonio Vivarini
Simon (1629) in Room 11. Also Masterpieces and Giovanni d’Alemagna.
represented in this room is Room 23 brings together some
Giambattista Tiepolo, the of the most famous master
greatest Venetian painter of pieces of the collection. These The downstairs galleries
the 18th century. include Andrea Mantegna’s The opening of the downstairs
St George (c.1460), Bellini’s galleries in 2015 was the first
Madonna of the Little Trees stage of an ambitious expansion
Ceremonial Paintings (c.1487), and Giorgione’s famous plan. These interactive galleries
Rooms 20 and 21 return to the Tempest (c.1507). The inventive present the art of the 17th, 18th
Renaissance, featuring two young Giorgione was and 19th century, grouping
great cycles of paintings from influenced by Bellini, but around themes such as Venetian
the late 16th century. The detail went way beyond portrait artists and
in these large-scale anecdotal his master. In the 17th-century
canvases provides a fascinating atmospheric collections. There
glimpse of the life, customs and Tempest, this are rooms devoted
appearance of Venice at the treatment of the to the work of
time. Room 20 houses The landscape and Hayez, Canova
Stories of the Cross by Venice’s the use of the and Palladio, while
leading artists, commissioned figures to intensify a room on ceiling
by the Scuola di San Giovanni that mood was paintings includes
Evangelista (see p108). Each one an innovation a masterpiece
depicts an episode of the relic adopted in by Veronese.
of the Holy Cross, which the Venetian paintings
kingdom of Cyprus donated of the 16th Detail from Titian’s
to the Scuola. In The Procession century and Presentation of the
in St Mark’s Square (1496) by well beyond. Virgin (1538)
y Peggy paintings which are the main

Guggenheim attraction in Venetian churches
Collection and museums.
Regular events are held at
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro the museum, including Kids’
701. Map 6 F4. Tel 041 240 54 11.
Day, for children aged 4–10.
4 Accademia. Open 10am–6pm
The Kids’ Day project runs
Wed–Mon. Closed 25 Dec. & 9
= 8 - ^ ∑ guggenheim- every Sunday in English and
venice.it Italian with the aim of intro
ducing youngsters to the
Intended as a four-storey world of modern and
palace, the 18th-century contemporary art. There are
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in fact also daily presentations about
never rose beyond the ground Peggy Guggenheim and her
floor – hence its nickname, collection, as well as Ask Me
Il Palazzo Nonfinito (The Interno Olandese II (c.1928) by Joan Miró About Art, which actively
Unfinished Palace). In 1949 encourages interaction
the building was bought a Guggenheim discovery. between visitors and the
as a home by the American Other artists represented interns working at the
millionairess Peggy are Braque, Miró, de Chirico, collection. The interns
Guggenheim (1898–1979), Magritte, Dalí, Kandinsky, are art or art history
a collector, dealer and patron Balla, Severini, Picabia, graduates from all over
of the arts. A perspicacious Delaunay, Duchamp, Klee, the world – most speak
and high-spirited woman, Mondrian, Malevich, several languages.
she befriended and furthered Calder and Rothko. In 2009, a
the careers of many innovative Sculpture is laid out contemporary art
abstract and Surrealist artists. in the house and garden. gallery opened in the
One was her second husband, One of the most elegant Punta della Dogana.
Max Ernst. She bequeathed works is Constantin The Guggenheim
her vast collection of modern Brancusi’s Maiastra had planned to acquire
European and American (1912). The most the site; however, the
art to her uncle Solomon provocative piece is French businessman
R Guggenheim’s foundation Marino Marini’s Angelo François Pinault was
in 1979 with the stipulation that della Città (Angel of the granted the lease.
it remain in Venice. The museum City, 1948), a prominently
was inaugurated in 1980. displayed man sitting
The collection is one on a horse, erect in all u Campiello
of Europe’s leading modern
art galleries. It consists of
respects. Embarrassed
onlookers avert their
Barbaro
200 paintings and sculptures, gaze to enjoy views Map 6 F4. 4 Salute.
representing almost every of the Grand Canal. Maiastra
modern art movement. The Guggenheim is by Constantin An enchanting little
The dining room has notable one of Venice’s most Brancusi square, Campiello
Cubist works of art including visited sights. The light- Barbaro is shaded by
The Poet by Pablo Picasso. filled rooms and the modern trees and flanked on one side
An entire room is devoted canvases provide a striking by the wisteria-clad walls of
to Jackson Pollock, who was contrast to the Renaissance Ca’ Dario. Throughout the
Boats moored at the Peggy Guggenheim museum on the banks of the Grand Canal
DORSODURO  139
history of this Grand Canal

palace, its owners have
been plagued by accidents,
suicides and bankruptcy,
from Giovanni Dario, who
commissioned the building
in 1479, to the industrialist
Raul Gardini, who shot himself
in 1993.
i Santa Maria
della Salute
Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4.
Tel 041 274 399 28. 4 Salute. Church
and Sacristy: Open 9am–noon,
3–5:30pm daily. & for Sacristy. ^
This great Baroque Church

standing at the entrance
of the Grand Canal is one of
the most imposing architectural
landmarks of Venice. Henry
James likened it to “some
great lady on the threshold
of her salon … with her Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute built in honor of deliverance from the plague
domes and scrolls, her scalloped
buttresses and statues forming on the wall opposite the oPunta della
a pompous crown and her wide entrance is The Wedding at Dogana
steps disposed on the ground Cana (1551), a famous work
like the train of a robe”. The by Tintoretto. Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4.
church was built in thanksgiving The Pinacoteca Manfrediniana Tel 041 240 13 08. 4 Salute.
for the deliverance of the city can be found next door and is Open 10am–7pm Wed–Mon
from the plague of 1630, hence home to a number of paintings, during temporary exhibitions
only. Closed 25 Dec. & ^
the name Salute, meaning including works by Veronese
∑ palazzograssi.it
“health and salvation”. Every and Titian.
21 November, in celebration The building which housed
(see p39), worshippers approach the sea customs post was
across a bridge of boats originally built in the 15th
spanning the mouth of century to inspect the cargo
the Grand Canal. Baldassare of ships that intended to
Longhena started the church enter Venice. However, the
in 1630. It was completed in customs house that visitors
1687, five years after his death. see today was constructed
The interior consists of a in the late 17th century
large octagonal space below and replaced a tower that
the cupola and six chapels originally guarded the entrance
radiating from the ambulatory. to the Grand Canal. On the
The altar’s sculptural group corner tower of the house,
by Giusto Le Corte represents two bronze Atlases support
the Virgin and Child protecting a striking golden ball with
Venice from the plague. Some a weathervane figure of
of the best works, such as Fortuna on the top.
Titian’s ceiling paintings of The Punta della Dogana
Cain and Abel, The Sacrifice of continued to serve as a
Abraham and Isaac and David customs house until the
and Goliath (1540–49), are 1980s. After standing empty
beyond the altar, where visitors for many years, the building
are not allowed. In the sacristy was bought by French
is Titian’s early altarpiece of billionaire François Pinault
St Mark Enthroned with Saints in 2007, and now hosts
Cosmos, Damian, Roch and Interior of the Salute showing the octagonal temporary displays of
Sebastian (1511–12), while core of the church modern art.
Sights at a Glance
Churches
1 Madonna dell’Orto
4 San Marziale
7 Gesuiti
8 Santa Maria dei Miracoli
9 San Giovanni Grisostomo
0 Santi Apostoli
e Scalzi
r San Giobbe
Streets and Squares
2 Campo dei Mori
3 Fondamenta della Sensa
5 Fondamente Nuove
Historic Buildings
6 Oratorio dei Crociferi
w Palazzo Labia
Art Gallery
q Ca’ d’Oro p148
Historic Area
t The Ghetto
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the Madonna dell’Orto church
venice area by area  141
CANNAREGIO
The city’s most northerly sestiere, city’s population lives in cannaregio. For the
cannaregio, stretches in a large arc from the most part it is an unspoiled area, divided by
20th-century railway station in the west to wide canals, crisscrossed by alleys and
one of the oldest quarters of venice in the characterized by small stores, simple bars
east. The northern quays look out towards and the artisans’ workshops. One of the
the islands in the lagoon, while to the south prettiest and most remote quarters is in the
the sestiere is bounded by the upper sweep north, near the church of Madonna
of the Grand canal. dell’Orto and around campo dei Mori.
The name of the quarter derives either Tourism is concentrated along two main
from the italian canne, meaning “canes” thoroughfares: the Lista di Spagna and the
or “reeds”, which grew here centuries ago, or wide Strada nova, both on the well-worn
perhaps from “canal regio” or royal canal – route from the station to the rialto. Just off
the former name of what is now the canale this route lies the world’s oldest ghetto.
di cannaregio. This waterway was the main Though the Jewish community now lives all
entry to venice before the advent of the rail over the city, this is historically the most
link with the mainland. Over a third of the fascinating quarter of cannaregio.
Restaurants see pp245–6

1 Brek
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Street-by-Street: Cannaregio
Surprisingly few tourists find their way to this unspoiled
quarter of northern Cannaregio. This is the more humble, To Madonna dell’Orto
peaceful side of Venice, where clean washing is strung
over the waterways and the streets are flanked by the
softly crumbling façades of shuttered houses. Along
the wide fondamente, the little shops and stores
VE
stock basic groceries and the bars are always
PIA
crowded with Venetians. The quarter’s
LO
cultural highlight is the lovely Gothic
CP
church of Madonna dell’Orto,
AV A
Tintoretto’s parish church.
PI ARG
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F ON
RI DA
O ME
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MA N
D O TA M
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NN AD
A ON
Key DE NA
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’O LL
Suggested route RT ’O
O RT
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FO
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AM
EN
TA
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LL
A S
E NS
A
FO
ND
AM
EN
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3 Fondamenta della Sensa DE
I M
This peaceful backwater, with OR
its typically Venetian peeling I
façades, is undisturbed
by tourism.
Tintoretto lived
with his family in
this house, No. 3399
Fondamenta dei
Mori, from 1574 until
his death in 1594.
1 . Madonna dell’Orto
One of the finest Gothic churches in Venice,
Madonna dell’Orto has a richly decorated
façade and a wealth of works by Tintoretto.
2 . Campo dei Mori

This square is named after
the stone statues of three
Moors (Mori) which are
To Ca’ d’Oro
carved on its walls.
0 metres 50
4 San Marziale
0 yards 50 Ceiling paintings by
Sebastiano Ricci (1700–25)
and a bizarre Baroque altar
adorn this Baroque church.
CANNAREGIO  143
Fondamenta Gasparo Contarini is

named after the cardinal, diplomat
and scholar who lived at Palazzo
Contarini dal Zaffo (see p72) in the CANNAREGIO
16th century.
SAN POLO AND

SANTA CROCE
SAN
MARCO
Locator Map
Venetian oarsmen usually practise

their technique on the lagoon, but
they can also be seen on Cannaregio’s
A
DI
FM quieter canals.
OR
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SP
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IS
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R La Sacca della
IN
A
I Misericordia is a large
CC
man-made basin
SA
opening out into the

TI
U
lagoon, with views of

M
EI
the islands of San

D
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Michele and Murano.

H
RI
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A Campo dell’Abbazia,
RI B
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N
A
D decorative herringbone floor tiles,
ISA
EL Z
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is overlooked by the Scuola
EV
LA
IA
TR
SE Vecchia della Misericordia and a

Z
N
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SA deconsecrated church.
B
CD
B
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L´
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FO E
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D
N LE
A
D A
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A
LE
RG
FM
R M
IO EN LA
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D TA C
N
E D
L
I
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D
A LA
IO
M M
IS
R
IS
E ER
R
IC IC
O O
R R
D D
IA IA Fondamenta della
Misericordia,
named after the nearby
scuola, was built in the
Middle Ages.
passengers to To the right of the entrance

the islands in the is Cima da Conegliano’s
northern lagoon. magnificent painting St John
The dedication was the Baptist and Other Saints
changed and the (c.1493). The vacant space
church reconstructed opposite belongs to Giovanni
in the early 15th Bellini’s Madonna with Child
century following the (c.1478), which was stolen
discovery, in a nearby for the third time in 1993.
vegetable garden
(orto), of a statue of
the Virgin Mary said 2 Campo dei Mori
to have miraculous Map 2 F3. 4 Madonna dell’Orto.
powers. However, a
15th-century statue According to popular
of St Christopher tradition, the “Mori” were the
still stands above three Mastelli brothers who
the portal. came from the Morea (the
The interior, faced Peloponnese). The brothers,
almost entirely in who were silk merchants by
brick, is large, light trade, took refuge in Venice
and uncluttered. The in 1112 and built the
The campanile of Madonna dell’Orto, crowned by an greatest treasures Palazzo Mastelli, visible from
onion-shaped cupola are the works of art Fondamenta Gasparo Contarini
by Tintoretto, who and recognizable by its camel
1 Madonna was a parishioner of the church. bas-relief. The brothers’ stone
dell’Orto His tomb, which is marked with figures are embedded in the
a plaque, lies in the chapel to wall of the campo on its eastern
Campo Madonna dell’Orto. Map 2 F2. the right of the chancel. The side. The corner figure with the
Tel 041 71 99 33. 4 Madonna most dramatic of his works makeshift rusty metal nose
dell’Orto. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
are the towering paintings in (added in the 19th century) is
noon–5pm Sun & public hols.
& donation. 9 ^ 8 on request.
the chancel (1562–4). On the “Signor Antonio Rioba”, who,
∑ madonnadellorto.org
right wall is The Last Judgment, like the Roman Pasquino, was
whose turbulent content the focus of malicious fun
This lovely Gothic church is caused John Ruskin’s wife and satire. A fourth Oriental
frequently referred to as the Effie to flee the church. In the merchant with a large turban
English Church in Venice, for it painting The Adoration of the faces the Rio della Sensa on
was British funds that helped Golden Calf on the left wall, the the façade of Tintoretto’s
restore the building after the figure carrying the calf, fourth house (see p142).
1966 floods (see p54). The original from the left, is said to depict
church, founded in the mid- Tintoretto himself.
14th century, was dedicated to Inside the chapel of San
St Christopher, patron saint of Mauro visitors can see the
travellers, to protect radically restored statue of the
the boatmen Madonna which inspired the
who ferried reconstruction of the church.
Tintoretto (1518–94)
Jacopo Robusti, nicknamed Tintoretto because
of his father’s occupation of silk dyer, was born,
lived and died in Cannaregio. He left Venice only
once in his life. A devout Christian, volatile and
unworldly, his was a highly individual and theatrical
style, conveyed by vivid exaggeration of light and
movement, bold foreshortening and fiery, fluid
brushstrokes. His remarkably prolific output has never
been ascertained, but scores of his works survive, many
still in the places for which they were painted. Examples of his
canvases can be seen in the church of Madonna dell’ Orto, the
Accademia (see pp134–7), and the Doge’s Palace (see pp88–93).
His crowning achievement, however, was the great series of
works for the Scuola Grande di San Rocco (see pp110–11).
One of the stone Moors which gave the
Campo dei Mori its name
CANNAREGIO  145
northern lagoon for one

kilometre (over half a mile),
from the solitary Sacca della
Misericordia to the Rio di
Santa Giustina in Castello on
the eastern side.
Before the construction of the
quays in the 1580s, this was a
desirable residential area where
the air was said to be healthy
and the houses had gardens
sloping down to the lagoon.
One of the residents was
Titian, who lived from 1531
to his death in 1576 in a now
The peaceful and atmospheric Fondamenta della Sensa demolished house at Calle
Larga dei Botteri No. 5182–3
of the decorative Rococo style. (a plaque marks the site).
3 Fondamenta Executed between 1700 and Today the quaysides are
della Sensa 1705, relatively early in Ricci’s aesthetically uninspiring but
Map 2 E2. 4 Madonna dell’Orto. career, these bold, foreshortened they do provide splendid views
frescoes already combine of the northern lagoon and,
When the marshy lands of the Venetian tradition with on a clear day, the peaks of
Cannaregio were drained in the flamboyant Rococo flourishes. the Dolomites. The island most
Middle Ages, three long, straight Sadly, though, the vivid colours visible from the quays is San
canals were created, running for which Ricci was known have Michele in Isola (see p157), its
parallel to each other. The been sullied by decades of dark, stately cypress trees rising
middle of these is the Rio della grime. The central painting high above the cemetery walls.
Sensa, which stretches from shows The Glory of Saint Martial,
the Sacca di Sant’Alvise at its while the side paintings relate
western end to the Canale della to the image of the Virgin. 6 Oratorio dei
Misericordia in the east. The Crociferi
Fondamenta cuts through a
quiet quarter of Cannaregio, 5Fondamente Campo dei Gesuiti, Cannaregio 4905.
Map 3 B3. Tel 041 532 29 20, bookings
where daily life goes on Nuove 041 271 9012. 4 Fondamente Nuove.
undisturbed by tourism. With its Map 3 B3. 4 Fondamente Nuove. Open 10am–1pm, 2–5pm Fri & Sat. &
small grocery shops, and simple
local bars and trattorie, the The Fondamente Nuove or Founded in the 13th century
neighbourhood feels far “New Quays” are actually over as a hospital for returning
removed from San Marco. 400 years old. This chain of Crusaders, the Oratorio dei
This is one of the poorer waterside streets borders the Crociferi (built for the order
areas of the city, though it is of the Bearers of the Cross)
interspersed with fine (but was turned into a charitable
neglected) palaces that once institution for old people
belonged to wealthy Venetians. in the 15th century.
Abbot Onorio Arrigoni lived at Between 1583 and 1591
No. 3336 with his collection of the artist Palma il Giovane,
antiques, and Palazzo Michiel commissioned by the Crociferi,
(No. 3218) is an early decorated the chapel with
Renaissance palace which a glowing cycle of paintings,
became the French Embassy. depicting the crucial events
in the history of this religious
order. The paintings suffered
4 San Marziale terrible damage in the floods
Campo San Marziale. Map 2 F3.
of 1966 (see p54), but were
Tel 041 71 99 33. 4 San Marcuola. successfully restored and
Open by appointment only. the chapel reopened in 1984.
The inscriptions on the walls
A Baroque church on medieval of some of the surrounding
foundations, San Marziale was houses in the square are
rebuilt between 1693 and those of art and craft guilds,
1721. The church is mainly such as silk weavers and
visited for the ceiling frescoes Altar of San Marziale showing tailors, whose works formerly
by Sebastiano Ricci, a painter a carving of the Virgin and Child occupied the buildings.
8 Santa Maria Pietro, can still be seen above

dei Miracoli the altar. The interior of the
church, which ideally should be
Campo dei Miracoli. Map 3 B5. visited when pale shafts of sun-
Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Fondamente
light are streaming in through
Nuove or Rialto. Open 10am–5pm
the windows, is embellished by
Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
pink, white and grey marble and
15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^
∑ chorusvenezia.org crowned by a barrel-vaulted
ceiling (1528) which has 50
An exquisite masterpiece of the portraits of saints and prophets.
early Renaissance, the Miracoli The balustrade, between the
is the favourite church of many nave and the chancel, is deco-
Venetians and the one where rated by Tullio Lombardo’s carved
they like to get married. Tucked figures of St Francis, Archangel
away in a maze of alleys and Gabriel, the Virgin and St Clare.
waterways in eastern Cannaregio, The screen around the high
The sumptuous ceiling frescoes of the it is small and somewhat altar and the medallions
Gesuiti church elusive, but well worth the of the Evangelists in
effort needed to find it. the cupola spandrels
7 Gesuiti Often likened are also by Lombardo.
Campo dei Gesuiti. Map 3 B3. to a jewel box, Above the main
Tel 041 528 65 79. 4 Fondamente the façade is door, the choir
Nuove. Open 10am–noon, 4–6pm daily. decorated with gallery was used
various shades of by the nuns from
The Jesuits’ close links with the marble, with fine the neighbouring
papacy provoked Venetian bas-reliefs and Decorative column, interior of Santa convent, who
hostility during the 17th sculpture. It was Maria dei Miracoli entered the
century, and for 50 years they built in 1481–9 by church through
were refused entry to the city. the architect Pietro Lombardo an overhead gallery. The Miracoli
However, in 1714 they were and his sons to enshrine The was the subject of a major
given permission to build this Virgin and Child (1408), a painting restoration programme, which
church in the north of Venice, believed to have miraculous was funded by the American
on the site of a 12th-century powers. The picture, by Nicolò di Save Venice organization.
church which had belonged to
the Order of the Crociferi.
Consecrated as Santa Maria Santa Maria dei Miracoli
The façade is a harmonious tapestry
Assunta, the church is always
of decorated panels and multi-
referred to simply as the
coloured polished stone.
Gesuiti; thus it is often
confused with the
Gesuati in Dorsoduro
(see p133). The semicircular
crowning lunette
Domenico Rossi’s emphasizes the
imposing Baroque church’s jewel-box
exterior gives only a appearance.
hint of the opulence
of the interior. The
proliferation of green A false loggia is
and white marble, formed of Ionic arches,
carved in parts like inset with windows.
The marble used was
great folds of fabric, reportedly left over
gives the impression from the building of
that the church is San Marco.
clothed in damask.
Titian’s Martyrdom
The marble panels are
of St Lawrence fixed to the bricks by
(c.1555), above the metal hooks. This
first altar on the left, method, which prevents
has been described the build-up of damp
and salt water behind
by the art historian
the panels, dates from
Hugh Honour as “the the Renaissance.
first successful
nocturne in the
history of art”.
CANNAREGIO  147
Marco Polo
Born around 1254 in the quarter of Cannaregio near the Rialto,
Marco Polo left Venice at the age of 18 for his four-year voyage to
the court of the Emperor Kublai Khan. He impressed the Mongol
emperor and stayed for some 20 years, working as a travelling diplomat.
Returning to Venice in 1295, he brought with him a fortune in jewels
and a host of spellbinding
stories about the Khan’s court.
As a prisoner of war in
Genoa in 1298 he compiled
an account of his travels, with
the cooperation of an inmate.
Translated into French, this
was to become Le Livre des
Merveilles. Despite the fact that
many Italians disbelieved his
wondrous tales of the East,
San Giovanni Grisostomo, the last work of the book was an instant
Mauro Coducci success. His nickname
became Marco Il Milione (of
9 San Giovanni the million lies); hence the
name of the two little court-
Grisostomo yards where the Polo family
Campo S Giovanni Grisostomo. lived: Corte Prima del Milion Marco Polo leaving on his travels, from a
Map 3 B5. Tel 041 523 52 93. and Corte Seconda del Milion. manuscript c.1338
4 Rialto. Open 8:15am–12:15pm,
3–7pm daily. No entry during Mass.
A notable exception, however, w Palazzo Labia
This pretty terracotta-coloured is the enchanting late Fondamenta Labia (entrance on
church is found near the Rialto. 15th-century Renaissance Campo S Geremia). Map 2 D4.
Built between 1479 and 1504, Corner Chapel on the right of Tel 041 78 11 11. 4 Ponte Guglie.
the church was the last work of the nave, believed to have been Open on request: call or email
Mauro Coducci. designed by Mauro Coducci. direzione.veneto@rai.it.
The interior, built on a Greek- The chapel contains The
cross plan, is dark and intimate. Communion of St Lucy by The Labias were a wealthy
Notable works of art include Giambattista Tiepolo (1748), the family of merchants from
Giovanni Bellini’s St Jerome with tomb of Marco Corner, probably Catalonia who bought their
Saints Christopher and Augustine by Tullio Lombardo (1511), way into the Venetian
(1513), above the first altar on and an inscription to Corner’s patriciate in 1646. Towards
the right. Influenced by daughter, Caterina Cornaro, the end of the century they
Giorgione, this was probably Queen of Cyprus, who was built their prestigious Baroque
Bellini’s last painting. Another buried here before she was palace, with a splendid façade,
artist inspired by Giorgione was moved to the Church of on the wide Cannaregio Canal,
Sebastiano del Piombo, whose San Salvatore (see p98). close to its junction with the
St John Chrysostom and Six Grand Canal.
Saints (1509–11) hangs above In 1745–50 the ballroom
the high altar. Some believe that was frescoed by Giambattista
the figures of St John the Baptist Tiepolo. The wonderfully
and St Liberal were painted by painted scenes are taken
Giorgione himself. from the life of Cleopatra
but the setting is Venice,
and the queen’s attire is that
0 Santi Apostoli of a 16th-century noble lady.
Campo Santi Apostoli. Map 3 B5.
Passed from one owner to
Tel 041 523 82 97. 4 Ca’ d’Oro. Open another the palace gradually
10am–noon, 3–7pm daily (may vary). lost all trace of its former
grandeur and variously
The Campo Santi Apostoli is a served as a religious foundation,
busy crossroads for pedestrians Tomb of Doge Marco Corner in Santi a school and a doss-house.
en route to the Rialto or the Apostoli (Corner Chapel) Since 1964, the Palazzo Labia
railway station. Its church is has served as the office of
unremarkable architecturally the Italian broadcasting
and little remains of the
q Ca’ d’Oro network, RAI, which also
16th-century building. See p148. undertook its restoration.
q Ca’ d’Oro
One of the great showpieces of the Grand Canal, the
Ca’ d’Oro (or House of Gold) is the finest example of
Venetian Gothic architecture in the city. The façade,
with its finely carved ogee windows, Oriental
pinnacles and exotic marble tracery, has an
unmistakable flavour of the east. But this once
gloriously embellished palazzo suffered many
changes of fortune and there is now little inside to
remind visitors that this was once a 15th-century
palace. Since 1984 it has been home to the Giorgio
Franchetti Collection.
Under her direction, the

History Ca’ d’Oro suffered barbaric First Floor
In 1420 the wealthy patrician restoration. The open staircase Pride of place is given to Andrea
Marino Contarini commissioned was ripped out, the wellhead by Mantegna’s St Sebastian (1506),
the building of what he was Bartolomeo Bon (1427–8) was the artist’s last painting and
determined would be the most sold and much of the Franchetti’s favourite work of
magnificent palace in the city. stonework removed. art. The portego (gallery) opening
The decoration and It was finally rescued on to the Grand Canal is a
the intricate carving by Baron Franchetti, showroom of sculpture. Among
were executed by a a patron of the arts, the finest pieces are bronze reliefs
team of Venetian who restored it to its by the Paduan sculptor Il Riccio
and Lombard former glory and (1470–1532), Tullio Lombardo’s
craftsmen, and he bequeathed it to marble Double Portrait (c.1493)
had the façade the State in 1915. and Sansovino’s lunette of the
adorned in A restoration Virgin and Child (c.1530). Rooms
ultramarine, gold Tullio Lombardo’s programme for the to the right of the portego have
leaf and vermilion. Double Portrait façade, first put into some fine Renaissance bronzes
In the course of action in the 1970s, and, among the paintings, an
the 16th century the house was is now finally completed, Annunciation and Death of the
remodelled by a succession of revealing the building’s exotic Virgin (both c.1504) by Vittore
owners, and by the early 18th design. The pretty paved Carpaccio and assistants. A
century was semi-derelict. In courtyard contains Bon’s room to the left of the portego
1846 the Russian Prince beautifully carved wellhead. is devoted to non-Venetian
Troubetzkoy bought it for the This was one of the pieces painting, and includes Luca
famous ballerina Marie Taglioni. retrieved by Franchetti. Signorelli’s Flagellation (c.1480).
Second Floor
The upper floor houses paintings
by Venetian masters, including a
Venus by Titian, two Venetian
views by Guardi and fresco
fragments by Titian, as well as
tapestries and ceramics.
Explanatory cards aid visitors.
Canal Grande (Calle Ca’ d’Oro).
Map 3 A4. Tel 041 520 03 45.
Open 8:15am–2pm Mon, 8:15am–
7:15pm Tue–Sat, 10am– 6pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & ^
9 = 7 partial. ∑ cadoro.org
Transport
4 Ca’ d’Oro.
The Annunciation (1504) by Vittore Carpaccio and assistants
CANNAREGIO  149
e Scalzi Tiepolo’s fresco of The Translation the design, such as the saints
Fondamenta Scalzi. Map 1 C4.
of the Holy House to Loreto over the portal. The Martini
Tel 041 822 40 06. 4 Ferrovia. (1743–5), which was destroyed chapel, second on the
Open 7am–noon, 4–7pm daily. by the Austrian bombardment left, is decorated with
of 24 October 1915. Della Robbia-style
Beside the modern railway station glazed terracotta.
(see p62) stands the church of The altarpieces by
Santa Maria di Nazareth, known r San Giobbe Giovanni Bellini and
as the Scalzi. The scalzi were Vittore Carpaccio
Campo San Giobbe. Map 1 C3.
“barefooted” Carmelite friars Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Ponte dei 3
were removed
who came to Venice during the Archi. Open 10am–1:15pm Mon–Sat. when Napoleon
1670s and commissioned their Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. suppressed the
church to be built on the Grand ^ ∑ chorusvenezia.org monastery of San
Canal. Designed by Baldassare Giobbe, and are now
Longhena, the huge Baroque The church of San Giobbe stands in the Accademia
interior is an over-elaboration of in a remote campo full of cats. Gallery (pp134–7).
marble, gilded woodwork and The early Gothic structure of The church is under-
sculptures. The ceiling painting, the church was modified in the going restoration;
The Council of Ephesus by Ettore 1470s by Pietro Lombardo, who check the website Saint by Lombardo,
Tito (1934), replaced Giambattista added Renaissance elements to for details. San Giobbe portal
t The Ghetto
Map 2 E3. Tel 041 71 53 59. 4 Ponte
Guglie. Museo Ebraico: Campo del
Ghetto Nuovo. 4 Ponte Guglie.
Open 10am–7pm (Oct–May: to
5:30pm) Sun–Fri. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec, Jewish hols. & - = 8 for
the synagogues, in English, every hour
from 10:30am. ∑ museoebraico.it
In 1516 the Council of Ten (see

p48) decreed that all Jews in
Venice be confined to an islet of
Cannaregio. The quarter was cut
off by wide canals and the two
watergates were manned by The wrought-iron bridge leading northwards out of the Ghetto
Christian guards. The area was
named the Ghetto after a The rising number of Jews ceremonies still take place.
foundry – geto in Venetian – that forced the Ghetto to expand. There are also several shops
formerly occupied the site. The Buildings rose vertically and on the large Campo del Ghetto
name was subsequently given spread into the Ghetto Vecchio Nuovo, which sell items such as
to Jewish enclaves throughout (1541) and the neighbouring glass rabbis and Hanukah lamps.
the world. By day Jews were Ghetto Novissimo
allowed out of the Ghetto, but (1633). By the mid- Museo Ebraico
at all times they were made 17th century the The small Jewish
to wear identifying badges and Jewish population Museum in the
caps. The only trades they could numbered over 5,000. Ghetto Nuovo houses
pursue were in textiles, money- In 1797 Napoleon a collection of artifacts
lending and medicine. pulled down the Flowers in front of the from the 17th–19th
gates, but under the Holocaust Memorial centuries. A guided
Austrians the Jews tour of the quarter’s
were again forced into synagogues leaves from the
confinement. It was not until museum daily except Saturday,
1866 that they were granted every hour from 10:30am to
their freedom. 5:30pm (4:30pm in winter). Led
Of the 500 Jews now in Venice, by English-speaking guides, the
about 30 live in the Ghetto. tours give a fascinating glimpse
However, the quarter has not into the past life of the Ghetto.
lost its ethnic character. There A short history of the quarter is
are kosher food shops, a Jewish followed by a visit to the lavishly
Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the oldest part baker, a Jewish library, and two decorated German, Spanish and
of the Ghetto synagogues where religious Levantine synagogues.
Venice area by area  151
THE LAGOON ISLANDS

Shrouded in myth and superstition, safeguard the lidi from erosion.
the lagoon was once the preserve of experiments with tidal barriers
fishermen and hunters. but marauders continue in an effort to combat the
in the 5th and 6th centuries aD drove ever-present threat of flooding (see p55).
mainland dwellers to the safety of the The thriving communities that once
marshy lagoon (see p44). Here, they lived and traded here are long gone.
conquered their watery environment, Many of the islands, formerly used as
which was protected from the open sea sites for monasteries, hospitals or powder
by thin sandbanks (lidi), created from silt factories, are now abandoned, but
washed down by the rivers of the Po Delta. a handful of them are undergoing
in the 13th century the first murazzi were development – one as an international
built – seawalls of angular stone which university, another as an exclusive resort.
Sights at a Glance
1 Torcello pp154–5 8 Santa Maria della Grazia
2 Burano 9 San Lazzaro degli Armeni
3 San Francesco del Deserto 0 Lido
4 Murano q San Clemente
5 San Michele w Lazzaretto Nuovo
6 Giudecca e Poveglia
7 San Servolo
Key
Central Venice
Major road
Tessera Aeroporto di
Venezia Marco Polo
Aeroporto Torcello
S14
S14
o Mazzorbo
llin Burano
O se
ale
C an
Laguna
Veneto
Punta Vela
Treporti
Chiesa
S1
1 Murano Lazzareto
Nuovo Sant ’
Faro Erasmo
Capannone
Punta
Sabbioni
Santa Lucia Le Punta
Fondamente Nove Vignole Sabbioni
Tronchetto Vignole
VENICE
San Certosa
Marco
Sant’ Elena San Nicolo
Lido
Lido
Sacca Lazzaretto
Sessola Vecchio
Laguna Mar
Veneto Adriatico
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Colourful houses in Burano For keys to symbols see back flap

152  venIce AreA By AreA
Exploring the Lagoon

A trip to the Lagoon Islands makes a welcome break from the
densely packed streets of the city. Murano, celebrated for its
glass, can be reached in a matter of minutes. Further north,
Burano, the “lace island”, and ancient Torcello are well worth
the longer ride. The Lido, with its sandy beaches, is an easy
journey from San Marco. Some of the lesser-known islands are
worth exploring too, but access can sometimes be difficult.
4 Murano
Some of Murano’s canalside
porticoes survive from
medieval days.
Murano and San Michele

are clearly visible from the
northern quaysides of Venice.
5 San Michele
World-famous writers
and artists are buried
alongside Venetians
on this island.
VENEZIA
San Giorgio in Alga had its Santa Maria 8

monastery partially destroyed by della Grazia
fire in 1717. It was demolished
in the 19th century. q San
Clemente
6 Giudecca Sant’Angelo della San

Palladio’s great church of the Polvere, recognizable by Spirito
Redentore, on the waterfront, its towers, was formerly a
is the island’s cultural highlight. powder factory.
Sacca Sessola, an artificial
island, was the site of a
hospital until 1980.
Poveglia e
0 Lido
Behind the crowded beaches and
grand hotels, the Lido has some
pleasantly peaceful waterways.
the lagoon islands  153
1 Torcello Sant’Ariano is a former ossuary

The island’s cathedral, founded in AD 639, island where the bones of
is the oldest building in the lagoon. Venetians were taken.
Mazzorbo
Le Vignole has market

gardens and an ancient fort.
2 Burano
Madonna Gaily painted, shuttered houses
del Monte are a distinctive feature of the
3 San Francesco island’s streets and quaysides.
del Deserto
San Giacomo
in Palude
Treporti
Punta
wLazzaretto Sabbioni
Nuovo
Sant’ Erasmo, once a

Roman pleasure ground,
Por to di is now a vegetable garden.
San Nicolo Lido
LIDO
Golfo di Venezia
7 San Servolo
This is now a centre for artisans learning
restoration techniques, such as stucco
and plasterwork.
Getting Around
The main islands of the northern
Lazzaretto Vecchio lagoon are well served by the
is a tiny island with a vaporetti (see pp284–5) and
varied past. It can be the Laguna Nord boat route from
seen in the distance Fondamente Nuove. A few of the
from the boat that smaller islands have a limited
runs from San Marco
public service; others can only
to the Lido.
be reached by water taxi.
Key
0 kilometres
9 San Lazzaro degli Armeni
2
Visits to this green and pretty Major road
0 miles 1 monastery island take in the church, Minor road
library, museum and printing press.
1 Torcello
Established between the 5th and 6th centuries, . Apse Mosaic
The 13th-century
Torcello grew into a thriving colony (see
Madonna, set against
p44), with palaces, churches and a a gold background, is
population said to have reached one of the most moving
20,000. But with the rise of mosaics in Venice.
Venice the island went into
decline. Today, the population is
just 60 and all that remains of
this once vigorous island is the
Byzantine cathedral, the church
of Santa Fosca and the memory
of its former glory.
. Domesday Mosaics
The huge and highly
decorative mosaic of the
Last Judgment covers the
entire west wall.
Pulpit
The present basilica
dates from 1008,
but includes many
earlier features.
The marble pulpit
is made of
fragments from
the first, 7th-
century church.
KEY
1 The Roman sarcophagus

below the altar is said to contain
the relics of St Heliodorus.
2 The marble nave columns . Iconostasis
have finely carved capitals dating The exquisite Byzantine
from the 11th century. marble panels of the rood
3 The central dome and screen are carved with
cross-sections are supported peacocks, lions and flowers.
by columns of Greek marble This detailed relief shows
with fine Corinthian capitals. two peacocks drinking from
the fountain of life.
THE LAGOON ISLANDS  155
Basilica di Santa Maria dell’
Assunta: Tel 041 73 01 19.
Open Mar–Oct: 10:30am–6pm
daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm daily.
& 9 Campanile: Open Apr–
Oct: 10:30am–5:30pm daily; Nov–
Mar 10am–5pm daily. & Santa
Fosca: Open Mass: 10am–4:30pm
daily. Museo: Tel 041 73 07 61.
Open Mar–Oct:10:30am–5:30pm
Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm
Torcello’s Last Canals Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. &
Silted canals and malaria hastened Torcello’s decline. One of the
remaining waterways runs from the vaporetto stop to the basilica. Transport
4 No. 12 from Fondamente
Nuove to Burano, then take No. 9.
Santa Fosca
Built in the 11th
and 12th centuries
on a Greek-cross
plan, the church
has a lovely portico
and a serene
Byzantine interior.
Attila’s Throne
It was said that the
5th-century king of the
Huns used this marble seat
as his throne.
To vaporetto
boarding point
Museo dell’ Estuario

Old church treasures and
archaeological fragments
are housed here.
E Museo del Merletto 3 San Francesco

Piazza Baldassare Galuppi. Tel 041 730
034. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–
del Deserto
Mar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Access via private boat from the
25 Dec. & ∑ museomerletto. landing stage in Burano. Visits to
visitmuve.it the island: usually 9–11am, 3–5pm
Tue–Sun (bookings 347 99 22 959,
The Buranese are fishermen and
www.lagunaflaline.it).Monastery: Tel
lacemakers by trade. Visitors can 041 528 68 63. Donations welcome.
still see the men scraping their ∑ sanfrancescodeldeserto.it
boats or mending nets, but
lacemakers are rare. In the This little oasis of greenery,
16th century the local lace was inhabited by nine friars, lies just
the most sought after in Europe. south of Burano. There is no
It was so delicate it became vaporetto service and to get there
known as punto in aria (“points you must bargain with the boat-
in the air”). Foreign competition, men on Burano’s quayside. Book
coupled with the Republic’s a trip on Massimiliano’s Laguna
A stall selling lace and linen in Burano’s decline, led to a slump in the Fla boat or take a water taxi..
main street 18th century in Burano’s The multilingual friars give
industry. However, the need tours of the old church and the
2 Burano for an alternative source of lovely gardens, which have a
4 12 from Fondamente Nuove, income led to a revival of the tree said to have sprouted from
approx. 40–50 minutes, or 14 from San skill in 1872 and the founding the staff of St Francis of Assisi.
Zaccaria to Punta Sabbioni, approx. of a lacemaking school, the
1½ hours. Scuola dei Merletti.
Today, authentic Burano lace
Burano is the most colourful of is hard to find. Genuine pieces
the lagoon islands. Lying in a take weeks of painstaking
lonely expanse of the northern labour, and are expensive.
lagoon, it is distinguished from Original pieces can be seen
a distance by the tall, dramatically at the informative Museo del
tilted tower of its church. In Merletto. Displays of household A Buranese fisherman about to haul in the
contrast to the desolate Torcello, linens and clothing feature fine day’s catch
the island is densely populated, antique lace, much of it created
its waterways lined by brightly at the school.
painted houses. 4 Murano
A tour of the island’s sights Mazzorbo 4 No. 4.1, 4.2 or 12 from Fondamente
will take an hour or so. The street Linked to Burano by a Nuove; 3 from Piazzale Roma.
from the ferry stop takes visitors footbridge, Mazzorbo is an
to the main thoroughfare, Via island of orchards and gardens. Like the city of Venice, Murano
Baldassare Galuppi, named after Ferries en route to Burano comprises a cluster of small
the Burano-born composer and Torcello pass through its islands, connected by bridges.
(1706–85). The street is lined with canal. The only surviving It has been the centre of the
lace and linen stalls and open- church is the Romanesque- glassmaking industry since 1291,
air trattorias serving fresh fish. Gothic Santa Caterina. when the furnaces and glass
craftsmen were moved here
from the city, prompted by the
risk of fire to the buildings and
the disagreeable effects of smoke.
Historically Murano owes its
prosperity entirely to glass. From
the late 13th century, when the
population numbered over
30,000, Murano enjoyed self-
government, minted its own
coins and had its own Golden
Book (see p46) listing members
of the aristocracy. In the 15th
and 16th centuries it was the
principal glass-producing centre
in Europe. Murano’s glass artisans
were granted unprecedented
privileges, but for those who left
Brightly painted houses in Burano the island to found businesses
elsewhere there were severe

penalties – even death.
Although a few of Murano’s
palazzi bear testimony to its
former splendour, and its basilica
still survives, most tourists visit
for glass alone. Some are enticed
by offers of free trips from factory
touts in San Marco; others go by
excursion launch or independently
on the public vaporetti.
Some of the factories are now
derelict, but glass is still The colonnaded exterior of Murano’s Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato
produced in vast quantities.
Among the plethora of kitsch The island’s architectural 5 San Michele
(including imports from the Far highlight is the Basilica dei 4 No. 4.1 or 4.2 from Fondamente
East) are some wonderful Santi Maria e Donato, whose Nuove.
pieces, and it pays to seek out magnificent colonnaded apse
the top glass factories (see p253). is reflected in the waters of the Studded with dark cypresses and
Many furnaces, however, close San Donato canal. Despite enclosed within high terracotta
at the weekend. some heavy-handed restoration walls, the cemetery island of San
undertaken in the 19th century, Michele lies just across the water
E Museo del Vetro this 12th-century church still from Venice’s Fondamente
Palazzo Giustinian, Fondamenta retains much of its original Nuove. The bodies of Venetians
Giustinian. Tel 041 739 586. Open beauty. Visitors should note were traditionally buried in
10am–6pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). the Veneto-Byzantine church graveyards in Venice,
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & = columns and Gothic ship’s but, for reasons of hygiene
∑ museovetro.visitmuve.it keel roof. An enchantingly and space, San Michele
The Museo del Vetro (glass evocative mosaic portrait and its neighbour were
museum) in the huge Palazzo of the Madonna, seen designated cemeteries
Giustinian houses a splendid standing alone against in the 19th century.
collection of antique pieces. The a gold background, The church of San
prize exhibit of the collection is decorates the apse. Michele in Isola stands
the Barovier wedding cup The church’s floor, or by the landing stage.
(1470–80), with enamelwork pavimento, dating from Designed by Mauro
decoration by Angelo Barovier. 1140, is equally beautiful. Coducci (c.1469), it was
There is also a splendid section With its medieval the first church in Venice
devoted to modern glass. mosaics of geometric Diaghilev’s to be faced in white
figures, exotic birds, tombstone Istrian stone. The
R Basilica dei Santi mythical creatures and cemetery itself rambles
Maria e Donato inexplicable symbols, it over most of the island. With its
Fondamenta Giustinian. Tel 041 73 90 incorporates fragments of carved tombstones and chapels
56. Open 9am–noon, 3:30–7pm daily ancient glass from the island’s it has a curious fascination. Some
(Nov–Mar: to 6pm). Closed Sun am. foundries into its imagery. graves have suffered neglect, but
most are welltended and
enlivened by a riot of flowers.
Glass Blowing The most famous graves are
those of foreigners: Ezra Pound
A main attraction of a trip to
(1885–1972), in the Evangelisti
Murano is a demonstration of the
glass-blowing technique. Visitors (Protestant) section, and Sergei
can watch while a glass blower Diaghilev (1872–1929) and Igor
takes a blob of molten paste on Stravinsky (1882–1971) in the
the end of an iron rod and, by Greci or Orthodox section.
twisting, turning and blowing, These bodies have been
miraculously transforms it into a allowed to rest in peace. Most
vase, bird, lion, wine goblet or others are dug up after about
similar work of art. The display is 10 years to make way for new
followed by a tour of the showroom arrivals, and the bones taken
and a certain amount of pressure to the ossuary island of
from the salespeople. There is no Sant’Ariano. Today, however,
obligation to buy, however. because of increasing lack
of space on San Michele,
Glass blower at work in Murano most bodies are buried on
the mainland.
originally named Spinalunga sacristy to the right of the choir.

(long spine) on account of its The most rewarding views of
shape. The name Giudecca, Il Redentore are from Venice
once thought to have referred across the water. For special
to the Jews, or giudei, who lived festivities the church is often
here in the 13th century, is more floodlit after dark, which makes
likely to have originated from a spectacular sight.
the word giudicati, meaning “
the judged”. This referred to R Le Zitelle
troublesome aristocrats who, Fondamenta delle Zitelle.
as early as the 9th century, Tel 041 309 66 05. 4 Zitelle.
were banished to the island. Open by appointment only. 8
Hotel Cipriani (see p265), Palladio’s church is now the site
among the most luxurious of Venice’s most up-to-date
places to stay in Venice, is congress centre. The building
discreetly located at the tip of adjoining the church used to be
Boats moored along the Ponte Lungo on the island. In contrast, at the a hostel for spinsters (zitelle),
the Giudecca western end of the island looms who occupied themselves by
the massive Neo-Gothic ruin of making fine lace.
6 Giudecca the Mulino Stucky. It was built in
4 No. 2, 4.1 or 4.2.
1895 as a flour mill by the Swiss
entrepreneur Giovanni Stucky,
In the days of the Republic, an unpopular employer who
the island of Giudecca was a was murdered by one of his
pleasure ground of palaces workers in 1910. The mill ceased
and gardens. Today it is very functioning in 1954. Following
much a suburb of the city, its extensive renovations, it
dark, narrow alleys flanked reopened in 2007 as a luxury
by apartments, its squares hotel with a rooftop pool.
overgrown and its palazzi
neglected. Many of its old R Il Redentore
factories have been converted Campo Redentore. Tel 041 275 04 62.
into modern housing. However, 4 Redentore. Open 10am–5pm An artisan at work at the San Servolo
the long, wide quayside skirting Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & training centre
the city side of the island makes 9 ∑ chorusvenezia.org
a very pleasant promenade Giudecca’s principal monument 7 San Servolo
and provides stunning views is Palladio’s church of Il Redentore 4 No. 20 from San Zaccaria. Venice
of Venice across (The Redeemer). It was built in International University: Tel 041 276
the water. The 1577–92 in thanksgiving for the 50 01.
island was end of the 1576 plague, which
wiped out a third of the city’s Halfway between San Marco
population. Every year since its and the Lido is the island of
creation, the doge and his San Servolo. Now a centre for
entourage would visit the teaching crafts and home to the
church, crossing from the Venice International University,
Zattere on a bridge of boats. it started life as one of the
The Feast of the Redeemer is original monastery islands of
still celebrated on the third Venice. Benedictine monks
weekend in July (see p38). The established a monastery here
church of Il Redentore, styled in the 8th century, and later
on the architecture of added a hospital.
ancient Rome, is a In 1725 the island became
masterpiece of a lunatic asylum and a new
harmony and hospital was built to house
proportion. The the patients. The Council of
Classical interior Ten (see p46) declared that this
presents a marked was to be strictly a shelter for
contrast to the ornate “maniacs of noble family or
and elaborate style of comfortable circumstances”.
most Venetian Poor maniacs were imprisoned
churches. The main or left to their own devices. In
paintings, by Paolo 1797 Napoleon scrubbed this
Veronese and Alvise discriminatory decree and the
Palladio’s Redentore church, Giudecca Vivarini, are in the asylum became free to all. In
1980 this spartan island was 9 San Lazzaro

taken over by the Venice degli Armeni
European Centre for the Trades
and Professions of Conser- Tel 041 526 01 04. 4 No. 20.
vation, and in 1996 Venice Open for one visit daily. No. 20 leaves
International University opened San Zaccaria at 2:45pm (Nov–Apr:
3:10pm). & 8
its doors here. The historic
buildings and the large park in Lying just off the Lido (see p160),
which they are set have been San Lazzaro degli Armeni is a
extensively restored. small monastery island, recog-
nizable by the onion-shaped
8 Santa Maria cupola of its white campanile.
The buildings are surrounded by
della Grazia gardens and groves of cypress
No public access. trees. Since the 18th century it
has been an Armenian mon-
Originally called La Cavana or astery and centre of learning.
Cavanell, the island lies a short
distance from San Giorgio Early history
Maggiore (see p99). Formerly a This small island served as an
shelter for pilgrims journeying asylum in the 12th century and
to the Holy Land, it became a later became a hospital island for
monastery island in the 15th lepers, named after their patron Prince Nehmekhet’s sarcophagus
century. Its name was changed saint, Lazarus. The lepers were (c.1000 BC), San Lazzaro
when a church then transferred to
was constructed the Ospedale di where monks taught (and
to enshrine a mir- San Lazzaro dei still teach) young Armenians
aculous image Mendicanti at Santi their culture.
of the Virgin, Giovanni e Paolo
brought from (see pp120–21). In The island today
Constantinople. 1717 an Armenian Today, multilingual monks give
The religious Illuminated manuscript, monk, Manug di visitors guided tours of the
buildings, including San Lazzaro degli Armeni Pietro, known as church, the art collection, the
a Gothic church Mechitar (“the library and the museum, which
with some fine paintings, were consoler”), was forced to flee houses Armenian, Greek, Indian
secularized under Napoleon. The his homeland, the Morea, when and Egyptian artifacts. One of
island became a military zone the Turks invaded. Venetian the most famous is an Egyptian
under his rule, but the buildings rulers gave him the island of sarcophagus complete with
were destroyed in the 1848 San Lazzaro in the southern mummy, which is one of the
revolutionary uprising (see p51). lagoon as a place of shelter. best-preserved in the world.
Until the end of the 20th Here, he established a religious The most impressive exhibit is
century, the island was occupied order. The Armenians rebuilt the the printing hall where, over
by a hospital for infectious island, setting up a monastery, 200 years ago, a press produced
diseases; after this department church, library, study rooms, works in 36 languages. A
moved to the main hospital in gardens and orchards. The polyglot press is still in use,
Venice, the island was sold. island became a place of study producing postcards, maps and
prints for visitors.
Lord Byron
In 1816 the poet Byron would
often row from Venice to absorb
Armenian culture. Full of admira-
tion for the monks, he wrote
that the monastery “appears to
unite all the advantages of the
monastic institution without any
of its vices … the virtues of the
brethren … are well fitted to
strike a man of the world with
the conviction that ‘there is
another and a better’, even in
this life.” The room where he
studied, with mementoes, has
The garden and cloisters of San Lazzaro degli Armeni been carefully preserved.
stays, features in the novel and

in Visconti’s 1970 film, and is still
a prominent landmark. It has
been converted into private
apartments called Residenze
des Bains.
The Lido is no longer the
prestigious resort it was in the
1930s. Beaches are crowded,
streets busy and ferries packed
with day trippers. Nevertheless
the sands, sea and sporting
facilities provide a welcome
break from city culture. The
backwaters provide a green
respite from the heat of Venice.
Exploring the island

The Lido can be covered by bus
but a popular form of transport
is the bicycle. Visitors can hire
one from the shop almost
opposite the vaporetto stop at
Santa Maria Elisabetta.
The east side of the island is
fringed by sandy beaches. For
passengers arriving by ferry at
the main landing stage, these
The grand Residenze des Bains, a famous landmark on the Lido beaches are reached by bus, taxi
or on foot along the Gran Viale
0 Lido vaporetti. The fastest of these Santa Maria Elisabetta. This is
4 Nos 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 and 6 (summer) to (No. 14) takes less than 15 the main shopping street of the
Santa Maria Elisabetta; No. 17 from minutes to reach its destination Lido. At the end of the Gran
Tronchetto to San Nicolò. from San Zaccaria. Viale, turn left for the beaches of
The Lido’s main season runs San Nicolò or right along the
The Lido is a slender sandbank from June to September, the Lungomare G Marconi, which
12 km (8 miles) long, which most crowded months being boasts the grandest hotels and
forms a natural barrier between July and August. In winter most the best beaches. The hotels
Venice and the open sea. It is hotels are closed. control the beaches in this area,
both a residential suburb of the and levy exorbitant charges
city and – more importantly for The world’s first lido (except to hotel residents) for
tourists – the city’s seaside In the 19th century, before the the use of their beach facilities.
resort. The only island in the Lido was developed, the island The long straight road parallel
lagoon with roads, it is linked to was a favourite haunt of Shelley, to the beach leads southwest to
the Tronchetto island car park Byron and other literary figures.
by car ferry. From Venice, the Byron swam from the Lido to
Lido is served by regular Santa Chiara via the Grand
Canal in under 4 hours.
Bathing establishments were
gradually opened and by the
turn of the century the Lido had
become one of Europe’s most
fashionable seaside resorts,
frequented by royalty, film stars
and leading lights of the literati.
They stayed in the grand hotels,
swam in the sea or sat in
deckchairs on the sands by the
striped cabanas. Life in the
Lido’s heyday was brilliantly
evoked in Thomas Mann’s book
Death in Venice (1912). The
The Lido, away from the glare Hôtel des Bains, where the Cabanas on the Lido beaches, hired out to
of the beaches melancholic Von Aschenbach holidaying Venetians
the village of Malamocco.

There are some pleasant fish
International Film Festival
restaurants here, but there is Film fans flock to the Lido every year in late summer for the
little evidence that this was International Film Festival. The event was inaugurated in 1932 under
once the 8th-century seat of the the auspices of the Biennale (see p260) and was so successful that the
lagoon’s government. Palazzo del Cinema was built four years later. During its history the
Alberoni, at the southern end festival has attracted big
of the Lido, is the site of a golf names in the film world; it
course, a public beach and the has also been plagued by
landing stage for the ferry bureaucracy and political
in-fighting. There are signs,
across to Pellestrina.
however, that the event is
making a comeback and the
San Nicolò famous names are now
The Lido’s only quarter of cultural returning to the Lido.
interest is San Nicolò in the north. The event takes place
Across the Porto di Lido, it over two weeks in late
is possible to see the fortress August/early September.
of Sant’Andrea on the island Films are shown day and
of Le Vignole, built by Michele night in numerous venues
Sanmicheli between 1435 including the Palazzo del
and 1449 to guard the main Cinema (tickets are sold
entrance of the lagoon. outside). You can normally
It was to the Porto di Lido that spot the stars (along with
the doge was rowed annually the paparazzi) for the price
to cast a ring into the sea in of a drink on the terrace
symbolic marriage each spring of the Excelsior Hotel. Poster advertising the first Lido International
(see p37). After the ceremony he (See also page 259). Film Festival, 1932
would visit the nearby church
and monastery of San Nicolò,
which was founded in 1044 and w Lazzaretto Nuovo juniper. During the pestilence
rebuilt in the 16th century. Tel 041 244 40 11. 4 No. 13.
that afflicted Venice in 1576, the
The nearby Jewish cemetery, Open Apr–Oct: 9:45am & 4:30pm Sat island housed 10,000 victims.
open to the public, dates from & Sun. 8 & donation
1386. The rest of this northern ∑ lazzarettonuovo.com
area is given over to an airfield. e Poveglia
The aeroclub located there can A mere stone’s throw from No public access.
organize private flying lessons. Sant’Erasmo, in the northern
lagoon, Lazzaretto Nuovo is one Formerly called Popilia on
Jewish Cemetery of the few uninhabited visitable account of all its poplar trees,
Tel 041 71 53 59. & 8 call in islands. Archaeologists continue the island was once a thriving
advance for a guided visit. to unearth medieval structures community with its own
dating back to the late 15th government. After the 1380 war
century, when the island was with Genoa, it fell into decline,
q San Clemente used as a quarantine station for and over the centuries became
crews of ships hailing from a refuge for plague victims, an
Founded in 1131 as a refuge for distant lands where the plague isolation hospital and a home
pilgrims and soldiers en route to was rife. Cargoes would be for the aged. Today the land is
the Holy Land, the crescent- fumigated with rosemary and used for growing crops and vines.
shaped island of San Clemente
became the site of a monastery,
home to a succession of
religious orders. During the
Republic, doges frequently met
distinguished visitors here, but
from 1630, when it was hit by
the plague, it served as a
military depot. In the 19th
century the island was turned
into a lunatic asylum; most of
the buildings date from that
time. Today San Clemente is a
peaceful island with a beautiful
hotel, which is currently closed
and awaiting new buyers. Hotel San Clemente Palace Kempinski on the San Clemente island in the southern lagoon
The picturesque Lago di Misurina in the Dolomites
The veneTo
area by area
The Veneto at a Glance 164–165

The Veneto Plain 166–189
Verona and Lake Garda 190–215
The Dolomites 216–225
164  THE VENETO AREA BY AREA
The Veneto at a Glance

The Veneto’s sheer variety makes it one of Italy’s
most fascinating regions to explore. The cities
of Verona, Padua and Vicenza are all noted for their
outstanding architecture, churches and museums.
Villas in the rural hinterland are gorgeously frescoed
with scenes from ancient mythology. The lagoon has
busy fishing ports and beach resorts, while Lake
Garda, with its glorious mountain scenery, historic
castles and watersports, makes a perfect holiday
playground. Northwards lie the majestic Dolomites,
Italy’s premier region for skiing, which attract visitors
in the summer, too with their Alpine beauty and
excellent hiking facilities.
Monti Lessini
Scores of scenic villages, such as Giazza
(see p207), nestle in the vineyard-clad
valleys of the Lessini mountains.
Riva del
Garda
Schio
Verona
An ancient Roman stronghold, famous
as the home of the lovers Romeo and Lake VERONA AND
Juliet, Verona today is a city of opera, Vicenza
Garda LAKE GARDA
theatre and art (see pp194–205). (pp190–215)
Verona
Villafranca
di Verona
Lake Garda
Most beautiful of all
the Italian lakes, Garda Este
is surrounded by
Scaligeri castles such
as the magnificent
Sirmione (see p210). 0 kilometres 30
0 miles 15
Vicenza
Dominated by the architecture of
Palladio, Vicenza (see pp170–75) is
the model Renaissance city.
T H E V E N E TO AT A G L A N C E  165
Dolomites
Erosion has sculpted the
limestone peaks of the Dolomites
into bizarre columns and spires,
with Alpine villages hidden in
steep valleys (see p222–3).
Cortina
d’Ampezzo
THE DOLOMITES
(pp216–25) Villa Barbaro
Veronese’s lavish
frescoes are the perfect
Belluno complement to one of
Palladio’s finest rural
villas, surrounded by
Feltre statue-filled formal
gardens, grottoes and
Vittorio Veneto pools (see p28).
Conegliano
Bassano
del Grappa Portogruaro
Castelfranco
Veneto Treviso
San Donà
THE VENETO PLAIN Caorle
di Piave
(pp166–89)
Mestre Portogruaro
Padua Roman and early Christian
Venice
finds fill the museums of this
ancient town (see p179).
Monselice
Chioggia
Rovigo
Adria
Padua
The domes and minaret-like spires of
St Anthony’s basilica (see p186) lend an
Eastern air to this historic university town.
Chioggia
Flocks of wading birds frequent
the wild marshland around
Chioggia (see p189), the Venetian
lagoon’s principal fishing port.
THE VENETO PLAIN

The great arc of land that forms the Veneto Plain is one of
tremendous contrast, and has much to offer the visitor.
Its ancient cities are rich in history and their magnificent
architecture is world-renowned. The source of the region’s
wealth is manifest in the industrial landscapes around the
towns, but these are never far from beautiful countryside,
which includes the green Euganean Hills, calm lagoons and
the undulating vine-clad foothills of the stunning Dolomites.
The area known as the Veneto Plain Wealth from agriculture, commerce
sweeps round from the Po river delta and the spoils of war paid for the
in the southwest to the mountains that beautification of these cities through the
form the border between Italy and construction of Renaissance palaces and
Slovenia. The whole region is crossed by public buildings, many of them designed
a series of rivers, canals and waterways, by the region’s great architect, Andrea
all of which converge in the Adriatic Sea. Palladio. His villas can be seen all over
The river-borne silt deposits that the Veneto, symbols of the idyllic and
created the Venetian Lagoon cover the leisured existence once enjoyed by
region, making the land fertile. The the region’s aristocrats.
Romans established their frontier posts The symbols of modern prosperity –
here, and these survive today as the factories and scarred landscapes – are
great cities of Vicenza, Padua and Treviso. encountered frequently, especially
Their strategic position at the hub of the around the town of Mestre. Yet there
empire’s road network enabled them are areas of extraordinary beauty as well.
to prosper under Roman rule, as they Petrarch (see p188), the great medieval
continued to do under the benign rule Romantic poet, so loved the area that
of the Venetian empire more than he made his home among the gently
1,000 years later. wooded Euganean Hills.
The town of Bassano del Grappa, nestled in the Alps

Fresco depicting Christ in Paradise (1378) by Giusto de’ Menabuoi in the Baptistry, Padua
Exploring the Veneto Plain

The landscape of the Veneto Plain is as flat as a board, but it is far
from dull. Villagers in the small communities dotted throughout
the region used to compete to build the tallest church tower,
and these seemingly needle-thin landmarks
soaring skywards draw the traveller on.
Great stone castles, dating from the Ghértele
Trento
14th century, rise on almost every o
ian
promontory, each with a top
Al Campanella
Va
backdrop on clear days of Asiago Pederobba
l
d’
Ás
the distant Alps. Valstagna
tic
o
Za
ra Leghe
Cavrari
Arsiero Lusiana Tórtima ASOLO
Caltrano Ás t i c o BASSANO
DEL GRAPPA
MAROSTICA
Sights at a Glance Schio
B re n t a
THIENE
Longa
CASTELFRANCO
1 Vicenza pp170–75
Sandrigo CITTADELLA
2 Thiene
3 Marostica Malo Fontaniva
4 Bassano del Grappa
5 Cittadella VENETO
6 Castelfranco Camposampiero
7 Asolo Piazzola
Key VICENZA sul Brenta
8 Valdobbiadene
Major road
9 Treviso Camisano
Minor road Vicentino
0 Conegliano Limena
Secondary road Longare
q Portogruaro
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Ba
w Caorle Motorway r cc
Be hi
Verona ti gli
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e PADOVA
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construction Bastia
r Padua (Padova) Barbarano (PADUA)
pp180–87 Main railway
Abano Terme
t Euganean Hills Minor
railway Orgiano
HIL NEAN
y Montagnana Montegrotto
Scenic route Terme
u Este
LS
i Monselice Noventa
A
Regional border Vo Bovolenta

Vicentina
EUG
o Polesine and Rovigo

Mantova Arquà Petrarca
p Chioggia
MONSELICE
MONTAGNANA ESTE
Urbana Chiesazza Solesino Bagnoli

di Sopra
Fratta
Stanghella
Ádige
Badia
Lendinara
ROVIGO
Fratta
Polesine
Bi
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Polesella
Chiavicone Po
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Ferrara,
Bologna
The castellated walls of Montagnana, dating from medieval times

THE VENETO PLAIN  169
Getting Around
An extensive rail network and good bus
services make this region easy to explore by
public transport. Roads are heavily used, so
avoid cities and autostrade during rush hours.
Follina Vittorio Veneto
VALDOBBIADENE Palladio’s Villa Rotonda near the town of Vicenza

CONEGLIANO
Vidór Mo
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Susegana ano
Trieste
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Montebelluna
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Candelú Maggiore Santo Stino Lugugnana
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TREVISO Ceggia z a
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Corte
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Pontelongo CHIOGGIA
Treponti
Cona
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Cavarzere Ádi
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P O L E Porto Viro The colourful quayside market in the town of Chioggia, the
Pa lagoon’s principal fishing port
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1 Street-by-Street: Vicenza
Vicenza is known as the city of Andrea
Palladio (1508–80), arguably the most Contrà Porti has some
influential architect of his time. Although of the most elegant
Palladio was born in Padua, Vicenza was his palazzi in Vicenza.
adoptive home and, walking around the city,
one can see the evolution of his distinctive
style. In the centre is the monumental
basilica he adapted to serve as the town hall,
while all around are the palaces he built for
Vicenza’s wealthy citizens.
Loggia del Capitaniato
This covered arcade was
designed by Palladio
in 1571.
Palazzo Valmarana
Palladio’s impressive building of 1566
was originally intended to be three IO
times larger. It was not completed D C
A O
until 1680, 100 years after the L N T
L R
architect’s death. A A
P C
A A
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IS
A I O C
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Duomo A
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Vicenza’s cathedral was rebuilt C

R
T
A
R
after bomb damage during G

E
P
World War II left only the

M
façade and choir intact.

A
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Suggested route Z M
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0 metres 150
0 yards 150
VICENZA  171
* 107,000. n Piazza
Matteotti 12 (0444 32 08 54).
∑ vicenzae.org
( Tue & Thu. _ Concert season
(May–Jun); Classical music in villas
(end Jun–early Jul); Theatre
season (Sep–Oct).
A
Transport
AR
V @ Piazza Stazione.
ARB
. Piazza dei Signori

CONTRA S B
Encircled by grand 15th-century

buildings including the city’s green-
roofed basilica and slender brick
tower, the piazza is a lively spot,
with a colourful market and cafés.
The Torre di Piazza is

82 m (269 ft) high. Begun
in the 12th century, its
height was increased in
1311 and 1444.
D
The 15th-century
E
P LE
L
IA
basilica has a magnificent

Z BI
loggia built by Palladio

Z A
A D
I
E in 1549.
D I
A R
E
Z O
Z N Andrea Palladio
A
IA IG
N
TE
P S This memorial to Vicenza’s

CA
LI
C
most famous citizen is often

CO
GA
A
AN
ZZ
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surrounded by market stalls.

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N
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CO
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CO
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I A EE
PA
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The Quartiere delle Barche

DI
PA
O
contains numerous attractive

TRA
N
CO
SA
palaces built in the 14th-

A
PON
NT
TR
century Venetian Gothic style.

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CO
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SC
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TO ON
AN TR
R E Piazza delle Erbe,
the city’s market square, is
overlooked by a 13th-century
torture chamber, the Torre
del Tormento.
. Casa Pigafetta
This striking house was
the birthplace of Antonio Ponte San Michele
Pigafetta, who in 1519 set This elegant stone bridge, built in
sail round the world 1620, provides lovely views of the
with Magellan. surrounding town.
Exploring Vicenza P Casa Pigafetta

Contrà Pigafetta. No public access.
Vicenza, the great Palladian city, is celebrated all over the This Spanish Gothic building of
world for its architecture. It is also one of the wealthiest 1481 has clover-leaf balconies,
cities in the Veneto, with much to offer, from Roman and gryphon brackets and Moorish
Renaissance art (a combined museum ticket is available) windows. The owner, Antonio
Pigafetta, sailed round the world
to elegant shops selling fine goods.
with Magellan in 1519–22,
being one of only 20 men
who survived the voyage.
E Museo Civico
Piazza Matteotti 37–9. Tel 0444 22
28 11. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
∑ museicivicivicenza.it
This fine museum is housed in
Palladio’s Palazzo Chiericati, built
in 1550. Inside is a fresco by
Domenico Brusazorzi of a naked
charioteer, representing the
Sun, who appears to fly over the
ceiling of the entrance hall. In
the upstairs rooms are many
Gothic altarpieces from local
Statues gazing down from their pillars in the Piazza dei Signori churches, such as Hans Memling’s
Crucifixion (1468–70), the central
P Piazza dei Signori architecture of Venice, a reminder panel of a triptych whose side
At the heart of Vicenza, this that Vicenza was part of the panels are now in New York.
square is dominated by the Venetian empire. In the later rooms are works
startling bulk of the Palazzo Several fine Palladian palazzi by the local artist Bartolomeo
della Ragione, often referred to stand on this street. The Palazzo Montagna (c.1450–1523),
as the “basilica”. Open to the Thiene (No. 12) of 1545–50, the including his remarkable Virgin
public, its green, copper-clad Palazzo Porto Barbarano (No. 11) Enthroned with Child, St John the
roof is shaped like an upturned of 1570 and the Palazzo Iseppo Baptist and Saints Bartholomew,
boat with a balustrade bristling da Porto (No. 21) of 1552 all Augustine and Sebastian.
with the statues of Greek and illustrate the sheer variety of
Roman gods. The colonnades Palladio’s style – Classical R Santa Corona
were designed by Palladio in elements are common to all Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
1549 to support the city’s three, but each is unique. The This Gothic church was built in
15th-century town hall, which Palazzo Thiene reveals some 1261 to house a thorn from
had begun to subside. This was intriguing details of Palladio’s Christ’s Crown of Thorns, donated
his first public commission, and methods: though the building by Louis IX of France. In the Porto
his solution ensured the survival appears to be of stone, close Chapel is the tomb of Luigi da
of the building. inspection reveals that it is built of Porto (d.1529), author of the
The astonishingly slender cheap lightweight brick, cleverly novel Giulietta e Romeo, upon
Torre di Piazza alongside has rendered to look like masonry. which Shakespeare based his
stood since the 12th century.
Opposite is the elegant café
Gran Caffè Garibaldi, which is
next to Palladio’s Loggia del
Capitaniato (1571). The Loggia’s
upper rooms contain the city’s
council chamber.
P Contrà Porti
Contrà (an abbreviation of
contrada, or “district”) is the local
dialect word for “street”. On the
western side is a series of pretty
Gothic buildings with painted
windows and ornate balconies,
including Palazzo Porto-Colleoni
(No. 19). These houses reflect the Brusazorzi’s ceiling fresco in the large entrance hall of the Museo Civico
VICENZA  173
famous play. Notable paintings

include Giovanni Bellini’s
Baptism of Christ (c.1500–5)
and Paolo Veronese’s Adoration
of the Magi (1573). In the
cloister the Museo Naturalistico-
Archeologico exhibits natural
history and archaeology.
R San Lorenzo
Open 10:30am–noon, 3:30–6pm daily
(from 4pm in summer), 3:30–6pm on
public hols.
This church’s portal is a splendid
example of Gothic stone carving, The elegant Villa Rotonda, most famous of all Palladio’s works
decorated with figures of the
Virgin and Child, and St Francis basilica on top of the hill the figures of dwarfs, which give
and St Clare. The frescoes inside features shady colonnades with this building its alternative
are damaged, but there are fine many shrines along the route. name – ai Nani (at the Dwarfs).
tombs. The cloister, to the north, The Baroque basilica was built Inside the villa, the walls are
is a flower-filled haven of calm. in the 15th century and is covered with frescoes by Tiepolo,
dedicated to the Virgin who in which pagan gods float on
appeared during the 1426–8 clouds watching scenes from
plague to declare that Vicenza the epics of Homer and Virgil.
would be spared. In the separate Foresteria (guest
Many pilgrims still travel house), the frescoes with themes
to the lovely church, where of peasant life and the seasons,
Bartolomeo Montagna’s moving painted by Tiepolo’s son,
Pietà fresco (1572) makes an Giandomenico, are equally deco-
impact within the ornate interior. rative but more earthily realistic.
Other attractions include a fossil The villa can be reached by a
collection in the cloister, and 10-minute walk from the basilica
Veronese’s fine painting The on Monte Berico. Head downhill
Supper of St Gregory the Great along Via M d’Azeglio to the
(1572) in the refectory. The large high-walled convent on the
canvas was cut to ribbons by right where the road ends, then
The beautiful cloister of the church bayonet-wielding soldiers during take the Via San Bastiano.
of San Lorenzo the revolutionary outbursts of
1848 and painstakingly restored. P Villa Rotonda
E Palazzo Leoni Montanari Via della Rotonda 45. Tel 0444 32
Contra’ Santa Corona 25. Tel 800 57 88 P Villa Valmarana 17 93. Villa: Open mid-Mar–4 Nov:
75. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Via dei Nani 2. Tel 0444 32 18 03. Open Wed & Sat. & Garden: Open 10am–
= ∑ gallerieditalia.com 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–mid-Mar: noon, 3–6pm Tue–Sun (5 Nov–mid-
This Baroque building was 10am–noon, 2–4pm Sat & Sun). Mar: 10am–noon, 2:30–5pm Tue–Sun).
Closed 12:30–3pm Tue, Thu & Fri & & ∑ villalarotonda.it
completed around 1720,
commissioned by Giovanni ∑ villavalmarana.com With its regular, symmetrical
Leoni Montanari, who had made The wall alongside the Villa forms, this is the epitome of
his fortune producing and selling Valmarana, built in 1688 by Palladio’s architecture and the
cloth. Today the Palazzo houses Antonio Muttoni, is topped by most famous of all his villas,
an art gallery renowned for its being the most widely copied.
collections of Venetian paintings The design is simple yet
and Russian icons. satisfying, as is the contrast
between the green lawns, white
R Monte Berico walls and terracotta roof tiles.
Basilica di Monte Berico. Tel 0444 55 Built between 1550 and 1552,
94 11. Open 6am–12:30pm, 2:30– it has inspired lookalikes in
7:30pm (Nov–Feb: to 6pm). cities as far away as Delhi and
Monte Berico is the green, St Petersburg. Fans of
cypress-clad hill to the south Don Giovanni will recognize
of the city to which wealthy locations used in Joseph Losey’s
Vicenzans once escaped in the 1979 film. The villa can be
summer to enjoy cooler air and reached by bus from town, or
bucolic charms. The wide The Baroque hilltop church, the on foot, following the path that
avenue linking the city to the Basilica di Monte Berico passes the Villa Valmarana.
Vicenza: Teatro Olimpico

Europe’s oldest surviving indoor theatre, the
Teatro Olimpico is an elegant and remarkable
structure, largely made of wood and plaster
and painted to look like marble. Fashionable
architect Andrea Palladio (see pp28–9) began
work on the design in 1579, but he died the
following year without finishing it. His pupil,
Vincenzo Scamozzi, took over the project and
completed the theatre in time for its ambitious
opening performance of Sophocles’ tragic
drama, Oedipus Rex, on 3 March 1585.
Bacchantes
Euripides’ Greek tragedy is still
performed using Scamozzi’s
versatile scenery.
. Odeon Frescoes
The gods of Mount Olympus,
after which the theatre is
named, decorate the
Odeon, a room used
for music recitals.
KEY
1 The Anteodeon’s frescoes

(1595) depict the theatre’s opening
performance. Oil lamps from the
original stage set are also on display.
2 Main ticket office is located
in the tourist office next to the
courtyard entrance
3 The auditorium was designed
by Palladio to resemble the outdoor . Stage Set
theatres of ancient Greece and Scamozzi’s scenery
Rome, such as the arena at Verona represents the Greek
(see p197), with a semicircle of city of Thebes. The streets
“stone” benches (actually made are cleverly painted in
of wood) and a ceiling painted perspective and rise at
to portray the sky. a steep angle to give the
illusion of great length.
VICENZA  175
Courtyard VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sculptures
The courtyard of the Practical Information
former castle is Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444 22 28 00.
decorated with ∑ olimpicovicenza.it
sculpture donated by Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (last
members of the adm: 4:30pm). Regular theatre
Olympic Academy, the performances. Closed 1 Jan,
learned body that 25 Dec. & 7 =
built the theatre.
Transport
@ to Piazza Matteotti.
Armoury Gateway
This stone gateway, with its military-style
carvings, leads from Piazza Matteotti into the
picturesque theatre courtyard.
Costume Designs for Sofonisba

Ancient Greek vases inspired the
costumes for this tragedy (1562)
by Palladio’s patron, G G Trissino.
Façade Statues
The toga-clad figures are
portraits of sponsors who paid
for the theatre’s construction.
2 Thiene
* 20,000. @ n Piazzetta Rossi 17
(0445 80 48 37). ( Mon am.
Thiene is one of the area’s many

textile towns, manufacturing
jeans and sweatshirts for sale
all over Europe. Two villas
nearby are worth a visit.
Of these, the Castello Porto-
Colleoni stood in open
countryside at the time it was
built. Its impressive defences
were a precaution against
bandits and raiders. Inside,
16th-century frescoes
by Giambattista Zelotti add a
lighter note and many portraits
of horses remind the visitor
that the villa’s owners, the The human chess board in the town square of Marostica
Colleonis, were employed
by the Venetian cavalry. 3 Marostica 4 Bassano del
Zelotti also frescoed the * 12,500. @ n Piazza Castello 1 Grappa
Villa Godi Malinverni, which (0424 721 27). ( Tue. * 38,770. V @ n Piazza Garibaldi
was the first villa designed 34 (0424 51 99 17). ( Thu & Sat am.
by Palladio (see pp28–9). Marostica is an almost perfect
The garden is charming and medieval fortified town, with This peaceful town is
the frescoes are magnificent. town walls built in 1370 by the synonymous with Italy’s
Inside are works by Italian Scaligeri (see p213). The rampart favourite after-dinner drink
Impressionists and a lovely walk from the Castello Inferiore (although grappa is not named
portrait by Pietro Annigoni (lower castle) to the Castello after the town, but after graspa,
(1910–88) called La Strega Superiore (upper castle) has the Italian term for the lees used
(The Sorceress). fine views. to distil the liquor). Information
The lower castle exhibits cos- on this and on the role played
+ Castello Porto-Colleoni tumes worn by participants in the by Bassano during both world
Corso Garibaldi 12. Tel 3298 54 19 town’s human chess tournament, wars is given at the Museo
62. Open mid-Mar–mid-Nov: 3, 4 the Partita a Scacchi, held every degli Alpini, across the Ponte
& 5pm Tue–Fri, Sun & public hols; other September (see p39). Up to degli Alpini bridge. Designed
Groups by appt all year round. 650 people participate in this in 1569 by Palladio, the current
& 8 7 partial. ∑ castellodi
colourful re-enactment of a bridge dates from 1948: its
thiene.com
game first played here in 1454. timber allows it to flex when
P Villa Godi Malinverni hit by spring meltwaters.
Via Palladio 44. Tel 0445 86 05 61. + Castello Inferiore Bassano is also famous for
Open Mar–Nov: Tue, Sat & Sun Piazza Castello 1. Tel 042 47 21 27. the majolica wares (see p256)
afternoons; other times, phone Open 9am–12:30pm, 3–6:30pm daily. at Palazzo Sturm. The life
ahead. & ∑ villagodi.com & ∑ marosticascacchi.it and works of locally born artist
Jacopo Bassano (1510–92) and
the sculptor Canova (1757–
1822) are celebrated in the
Museo Civico.
E Museo degli Alpini

Via Angarano 2. Tel 0424 50 36 62.
Open 8am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Closed 10 days in Jan. - = 7
E Palazzo Sturm
Via Schiavonetti 40. Tel 0424 52 49 33.
Open 9am–1pm, 3–6pm Tue–Sat
(from 10:30am Sun & pub hols). &
E Museo Civico
Piazza Garibaldi. Tel 0424 51 99 01.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am–
1pm, 3–6pm Sun & pub hols. &
The Ponte degli Alpini at Bassano del Grappa ∑ museibassano.it
5 Cittadella
* 18,000. V @ n Porte Bassanesi
2 (0499 40 44 85). ( Mon am.
This attractive town is the twin

of Castelfranco. Each was
fortified and Cittadella still
preserves its 13th-century
moated walls. These are
interrupted by 4 gates and
by 16 towers. The Torre di The pretty town of Asolo in the foothills of the Dolomites
Malta near the southern gate
was used as a torture chamber P Casa di Giorgione P Villa Barbaro
by Ezzelino de Romano, who Piazzetta del Duomo. Tel 0423 72 50 Masèr. Tel 0423 92 30 04. Open Apr–
ruled in the mid-13th century. 22. Open 9:30am–12:30pm Tue–Thu, Oct: 10am–6pm Tue, 11am–6pm Sat,
Far more pleasant to 9:30am–12:30pm, 2:30–6:30pm Fri– Sun & public hols; Nov–Mar:
contemplate is the Supper at Sun. Closed Easter, 25 Dec. & 11am–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols.
∑ museogiorgione.com Closed 12 Dec–31 Jan, Easter. &
Emmaus in the Duomo, a
∑ villadimaser.it
masterpiece by local Renais- P Villa Emo
sance artist Bassano. Fanzolo di Vedelago. Tel 0423 47 63 P Casa di Canova
34. V Fanzolo. @ 5. Open May–Oct: Piazza Canova. Tel 0423 54 43 23.
10:30am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Mon–Fri, Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun; ticket
10:30am–6:30pm Sat, Sun & pub hols; office closes at 5pm. Closed 1 Jan,
Nov–Apr: 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–5pm Easter, 25 Dec. & ∑ museocanova.it
Mon–Fri 10:30am–6:30pm Sat, Sun &
pub hols. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 31 Dec.
& = ∑ villaemo.org
8 Valdobbiadene
* 10,700. @ n Piazza Marconi 1
7 Asolo (0423 97 69 75). ( Mon.
* 2,000. @ n Piazza Garibaldi 73 Valdobbiadene, surrounded by

(0423 52 90 46). ( Sat. ∑ asolo.it vine-covered hills, is a centre for
the sparkling white wine called
Asolo is beautifully situated Cartizze, a type of Prosecco. To
among the cypress-clad foot- the east, the Strada del Vino
hills of the Dolomites. Queen Bianco (white wine route)
Fresco from the Villa Emo at Fanzolo, Caterina Cornaro (1454–1510) stretches 34 km (21 miles) to the
near Castelfranco once ruled this tiny walled town town of Conegliano (see p179),
(see p47), and the poet Cardinal passing vineyards offering wine
6 Castelfranco Pietro Bembo coined the verb to try and to buy.
* 30,000. V @ n Via Riccati 14
asolare to describe the bitter-
(0423 49 50 00). ( Tue & Fri am. sweet life of enforced idleness Environs
she endured. Others who have About 10 km (8 miles) northeast
Fortified in 1199 by rulers fallen in love with these narrow of Valdobbiadene is the small
of Treviso, the historic core streets include poet Robert town of Follina, known for its well-
of this town lies within the Browning, who named a preserved Romanesque abbey.
well-preserved walls. Casa di volume of poems Asolando
Giorgione, claimed to be the (1889) after the town, and travel
birthplace of artist Giorgione writer Freya Stark, who lived
(1478–1511), houses a museum here until her death in 1993.
devoted to his life. He created Just 10 km (6 miles) east of
such works as The Tempest (see Asolo is the Villa Barbaro at
p134). His Virgin and Child with Masèr (see pp28–9), while
Saints Liberal and Francis (1504) 10 km (6 miles) north is the
is displayed in the Duomo. village of Passagno, birthplace
Tuzio Costanza commissioned of Antonio Canova. Canova’s
it to stand above the tomb remains lie inside the huge
of his son, Matteo, killed in temple-like church which he
battle in 1504. designed himself. Nearby is
At Fanzolo, 8 km (5 miles) the family home, the Casa di
northeast of Castelfranco, is Canova. The Gypsoteca here
Palladio’s Villa Emo, designed in houses the plaster casts and
1564. Here, Zelotti’s frescoes show clay models for many of
the love lives of Greek deities. Canova’s sculptures. Vines near Valdobbiadene
the monument to Bishop

Zanetti (1501) by Pietro
Lombardo and his sons.
E Museo Civico
Piazzetta M Botter 1. Tel 0422 54 48 64.
Open 9am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
∑ museicivicitreviso.it
The Museo Civico houses an
archaeology collection and a
picture gallery in the restored
convent of Santa Caterina dei
Servi. The best works are
Lorenzo Lotto’s Portrait of a
The medieval town of Treviso, built around ancient canals Dominican (1526), Titian’s
Portrait of Sperone Speroni (1544)
9 Treviso the lack of suitable building and Bassano’s Crucifixion as
* 81,700. @ V n Via Fiumicelli stone. The modern, bustling well as Tommaso da Modena’s
30 (0422 54 76 32). ( Tue & Sat am. fish market also has medieval 14th-century frescoes of the
origins. It is held on an island life of St Ursula.
Full of attractive balconied in the middle of Treviso’s River
houses overlooking willow- Sile so that the remains of the R San Nicolò
fringed canals, Treviso is a day’s trading can be flushed Nestling near the 16th-
rewarding city for visitors. away instantly. century town wall is the bulky
Comparisons are often made Dominican church of San Nicolò,
with Venice, but Treviso has its R Duomo full of tombs and frescoes,
own distinctive character. A Treviso’s cathedral, founded including some by Lorenzo
good place to explore the in the 12th century, was Lotto. There is a gigantic painting
architecture is the main street, reconstructed in the 15th, of St Christopher by Antonio da
Calmaggiore, which links the 16th and 18th centuries. Inside Treviso and the piers of the nave
cathedral with the rebuilt is Titian’s Annunciation (1570), bear vivid portraits of saints by
13th-century town hall, the but it is upstaged by the Tomaso da Modena. The latter
Palazzo dei Trecento. The striking Adoration of the Magi also painted the humorous
tradition of painting the exterior fresco (1520) of Titian’s arch pictures of monks (1352) on
of the houses dates back to the rival, Il Pordenone. Other the walls of the chapterhouse
medieval period, and this form memorable works are The (Sala del Capitolo), which has a
of decoration, applied to brick Adoration of the Shepherds separate entrance through the
and timber, compensated for fresco by Paris Bordone, and Seminario Vescovile.
Treviso Town Centre

1 Duomo and Battistero di San Giovanni 4 Pescheria (fish market)
2 San Nicolò 5 Museo Civico
3 Palazzo dei Trecento
CONEGLIANO
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Station 200m (220 yards)

0 metres 200
MESTRE
0 yards 200

0 Conegliano
* 35,300. @ V n Via XX
Settembre 132 (0438 21 230). ( Fri.
Shops: closed Mon am.
Conegliano lies between the

Prosecco-producing vineyards
and those that produce fine red
wine (see pp240–41). Winemakers
from both areas learn their craft at
Conegliano’s renowned wine
school. The town’s winding and
arcaded main street, Via XX The foundations of Roman buildings in Concordia, near Portogruaro
Settembre, is lined by 15th- to
18th-century palazzi, some q Portogruaro perched on the edge of a huge
decorated with external frescoes, * 26,000. @ V n Piazza della expanse of purpose-built
some in Venetian Gothic style. Repubblica 1 (0421 27 72 30). lagoons, carefully managed to
The Duomo contains a gorgeous ( Thu am. Shops: closed Mon. encourage fish to enter and
altarpiece by Cima da Conegliano ∑ portogruaroturismo.it spawn. The young are then fed
(1460–1518) showing the Virgin and farmed.
and Child with Saints (1493). This Situated on the main road The area is also of great
was commissioned by the linking Venice to Trieste, interest to naturalists for the
religious brotherhood whose Portogruaro is the medieval abundant birdlife of the reed-
headquarters, the Scuola di Santa successor to the Roman town of fringed waters. The town’s
Maria dei Battuti (flagellants), Concordia Sagittaria. Finds from 11th-century Duomo is worth
stands beside the Duomo. Concordia, including statues, a visit for its Pala d’Oro, a gilded
Reproductions of Cima’s tomb inscriptions and mosaics, altarpiece made up of 12th-
paintings are displayed in are displayed in the town’s and 13th-century Byzantine
the Casa di Cima, the artist’s Museo Concordiese. These panel reliefs.
birthplace. His detailed objects were unearthed in the
landscapes were based on modern village of Concordia,
the hills around the town; 2 km (1 mile) south of
they can still be seen from Portogruaro, where the footings
the gardens surrounding the of ruined Roman buildings can
Castelvecchio (old castle). be seen all around the church
A small museum of local history and baptistry.
is housed in the castle.
E Museo Concordiese
P Casa di Cima Via Seminario 26. Tel 0421 726 74.
Via Cima. Tel 0438 216 60. Open 3– Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
6pm Sat & Sun (Apr–Sep: 4–7pm). &
+ Castelvecchio
Piazzale Castelvecchio 8. Tel 0438 228 w Caorle
71. Open Museum: 8:30am–7:30pm * 11,700. @ n Rio Terrà 3 (0421
Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar: Sun only); 810 85). ( Sat am. ∑ turismo
gardens: daily (except Nov–Mar). & venezia.it/Bibione-e-Caorle Local fishermen at work in the
village of Caorle
Like Venice, Caorle was built
among the swamps of the
Venetian lagoon by refugees e Mestre
fleeing the Goths in the 5th * 180,000. @ ( Wed & Fri am.
century. Today it is a fishing
village and a busy beach resort Mestre, the industrial offspring
of Venice, is often favoured
by visitors as a relatively less
expensive base for exploring
the region than Venice or
other towns. Flying into Venice’s
Marco Polo Airport (see pp278–9)
you cannot miss the factories
and oil terminals that
surround Mestre and its
neighbour, Marghera, vital
A mythical statue outside the theatre in Conegliano’s Via XX Settembre to the region’s economy.
r Street-by-Street: Padua
The city centre of Padua (Padova) is one of the Palazzo del Capitanio
liveliest in northern Italy, thanks to a large Built between 1599 and
1605 for the head of the
student population and to the two street city’s militia, the tower
markets, one specializing in fruit and the other incorporates an
in vegetables. These take place every day except astronomical clock
Sunday around the vast Palazzo della made in 1344.
Ragione, the town’s medieval law
court and council chamber. The
colonnades round the exterior of Piazza dei Signori
the palazzo shelter numerous bars, is bordered by
restaurants and shops selling attractive arcades
which house small
meat, game, cheeses and wine. speciality shops,
interesting cafés
Palazzo Liviano, a and old-fashioned
14th-century arts faculty wine bars.
(open for concerts), contains
frescoes which include a rare
portrait of Petrarch.
P I A Z Z A C A P I TA VIA
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Loggia della Gran Guardia

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Now used as a conference MA
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building, dating from 1523,
once housed the Council PIA ZZ A
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The Palazzo del Monte

di Pietà has
16th-century arcades
and statues enclosing
. Duomo and Baptistry a medieval building.
The 12th-century baptistry of
the Duomo contains one of the
most complete medieval fresco
cycles to survive in Italy, painted
by Giusto de’ Menabuoi in 1378
and now restored.
PA D UA  181
* 220,000. n Galleria Pedrocchi
and Piazzale Stazione 13/a. Tel 049
201 00 80. ∑ turismopadova.it
( Mon–Sat (Piazza delle Erbe and
Piazza dei Frutti). Shops: closed
Mon am (clothes), Wed pm (food).
_ concert season (Oct–Apr).
Transport
V @ Piazzale della Stazione.
. Caffè Pedrocchi
Built like a Classical temple, the Caffè Pedrocchi has been
a famous meeting place for students and intellectuals
since it opened in 1831.
PIAZ
ZA
C AV O
VIA GOR UR
IZIA
Palazzi Communali
This complex, which houses
the city’s council offices, has a
13th-century defensive tower.
A DEI
PIA ZZ T TI
FRU VIA O
BE RD The Palazzo della Ragione,
AN
the “Palace of Reason”, was, in
medieval times, the city court
of justice. Its interior is
PTT
AG covered with magnificent
IO
ARZ
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Padua University
CA Founded in 1222,
NZ
IA this is the second-
NO
oldest university in
Italy. The main
building dates back
to the 16th century.
0 metres 75
. Piazza delle Erbe
0 yards 75
There are good
views on to the
Key marketplace from
Palladio’s 16th-
Suggested route century loggia, which
runs alongside the
Palazzo della Ragione.
Exploring Padua
Padua is an old university town with an illustrious academic
history. Rich in art and architecture, it boasts two outstanding
sights. The first is the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5) in the
north of the city, which is renowned for Giotto’s lyrical frescoes.
Close to the railway station, it forms part of the Eremitani
museums complex. The second is the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, Sundial on the façade of the Palazzo
one of Italy’s most popular pilgrim shrines, which forms the della Ragione
focal point for a number of sights in the south of the city
(see p186). A combined museum ticket is available. P Palazzo della Ragione
Piazza delle Erbe. Tel 049 820 50 06.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm in
summer). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
&=7
The “Palace of Reason”, also known
as the “Salone” by locals, was built
to serve as Padua’s law court and
council chamber in 1218. The vast
main hall was originally frescoed
by the celebrated artist Giotto, but
fire destroyed his work in 1420.
Detail from the Egyptian room, upper floor of the Caffè Pedrocchi The frescoes that survive today
are by the relatively unknown
P Caffè Pedrocchi university building is mostly Nicola Miretto, though their
Via VIII Febbraio 15. Tel 049 878 12 31. used today for graduation astrological theme is fascinating.
Open daily (Jun–Oct: Tue–Sun). ceremonies. Originally it housed The Salone is breathtaking
Museo del Risorgimento e dell’Età the medical faculty, renowned in its sheer size. It is Europe’s
Contemporanea: Tel 049 820 50 07. throughout Europe. Among its biggest undivided medieval hall,
Open 9.30am–12.30pm, 3:30–6pm famous teachers and students 80 m (260 ft) long, 27 m (90 ft)
Tue–Sun. Closed Aug. & was Gabriele Fallopio (1523–62), wide and 27 m (90 ft) high. The
∑ caffepedrocchi.it
after whom the Fallopian tubes scale is reinforced by the wooden
Grand cafés have long played an are named. horse displayed at one end – a
important role in the intellectual Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia massive beast, copied from
life of northern Italy, and many was the first female graduate in Donatello’s Gattamelata statue
philosophical issues have been 1678 – long before women (see p187) in 1466 and originally
thrashed out at the Caffè could study at many of Europe’s made to be pulled in procession
Pedrocchi since it first opened other universities. Her statue is during Paduan festivities.
in 1831. Politics superseded on the staircase leading to the The walls are covered in
philosophy when it became upper gallery of the 16th- Miretto’s frescoes (1420–25), a
a centre of the Risorgimento century courtyard. total of 333 panels depicting
movement, dedicated to Visitors on the tour are shown the months of the year with
liberating Italy from Austrian rule; the pulpit Galileo used when he appropriate gods, zodiacal signs
it was the scene of uprisings in taught here from 1592 until and seasonal activities.
1848, for which several student 1610. They also see the world’s Also within the palazzo is the
leaders were executed. Later it oldest surviving anatomy theatre Stone of Shame, on which bank-
became famous as the café that (1594), viewing the room from rupts were exposed to ridicule
never closed its doors. These the centre looking up. before they were sent into exile.
days people come to talk, read,
play cards or watch the world
go by as they eat and drink.
The upstairs rooms, decorated
in Moorish, Egyptian and Greek
styles, are now the premises
of a museum.
P Palazzo del Bo (University)

Via VIII Febbraio 2. Tel 049 827 33 15.
Open Tue, Thu & Sat am, Mon, Wed
& Fri pm (may vary, phone to check).
&8
Named after a tavern called Il Bo
(the ox), the historic main The 16th-century galleried anatomy theatre in the Palazzo del Bo
PA D UA  183
Eremitani Museums
This museum complex occupies a group of 14th-century
monastic buildings attached to the church of the Eremitani, a
reclusive Augustinian Order. The admission ticket includes
entry to the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5), which stands
nearby, overlooking the city’s Roman amphitheatre, and to
the Archaeology Museum, the Medieval and Modern Art
Museum, and the Bottacin Museum – a display of coins and
medals housed in the Palazzo Zuckerman across the road.
The Museums
The highlight of the rich
archaeological collection is
the temple-like tomb of the
Volumni family, dating from the Angels in Armour (15th century) by
1st century AD. Among several Guariento in the Art Museum
other Roman tombstones from
the Veneto region is one to the especially the comical Drinking
young dancer Claudia Toreuma Satyr by Il Riccio (1470–1532).
– sadly, a fairly dull inscribed Coin collectors should make
column rather than a portrait. a point of visiting the Bottacin
The collection also includes Museum. Among the exhibits
some fine mosaics, along with there is an almost complete
The tomb of the Volumni family in the several impressive life-size set of Venetian coinage and
archaeological collection statues depicting muscular some very rare examples of
Roman deities and toga-clad Roman medallions.
dignitaries. For most visitors the The massive Medieval and
Eremitani Church Renaissance bronzes are likely Modern Art Museum is well
Alongside the museum to be the most appealing worth a visit. It covers the
complex is the Eremitani feature of the museum, history of Venetian art, with
church (1276–1306), with its paintings from Giotto to the
magnificent roof and wall 1700s. Another section looks
tombs. Interred here is Marco at Giotto and his influence on
Benavides (1489–1582), a local art, using the Crucifix from
professor of law at the city the Scrovegni Chapel as its
university whose mausoleum centrepiece. The Crucifix is
was designed by Ammannati, flanked by an army of angels
a Renaissance (late 15th century)
architect from painted in gorgeous
Florence. Sadly colours by the
missing from artist Guariento.
the church are Another 15th-
Andrea Mantegna’s century painting
celebrated frescoes worth a look is
of the lives of St James and Portrait of a Young
St Christopher (1454–7), which Senator by Giovanni Bellini.
were destroyed during a
bombing raid in 1944. Two VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
scenes from this magnificent
work survive in the Ovetari Practical Information
Chapel, south of the sanctuary. Piazza Eremitani 8.
The Martyrdom of St James was Tel 049 820 45 51.
reconstructed from salvaged ∑ turismopadova.it
fragments, and The Martyrdom Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun.
of St Christopher was removed Only chapel open Mon.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec.
carefully and stored elsewhere
&^=7
before the bombing. Other-
wise only photographs on the Transport
walls remain to hint at the Early 14th-century crucifix on loan @
quality of the lost works. from the Scrovegni Chapel
Padua: Scrovegni Chapel

Enrico Scrovegni built this chapel in 1303, The Nativity
hoping thereby to spare his dead father, a The naturalism of
usurer, from the eternal damnation wished the Virgin’s pose
marks a departure
upon him by the poet Dante in his Inferno. from Byzantine
The chapel is filled with harmonious stylization, as
frescoes of scenes from the life of Christ, does the use of
painted by Giotto between 1303 and 1305. natural blue for
the sky, in place
As works of great narrative force, they of celestial gold.
exerted a powerful influence on the
development of European art.
Expulsion of the Merchants

Christ’s physical rage, the cowering
merchant and the child hiding his face
are all typical of Giotto’s style.
The Coretti
Giotto painted the
two panels known
as the Coretti
as an exercise
in perspective,
creating the illusion
of an arch with a
room beyond.
View towards altar
West entrance North side Altar South side West entrance
Gallery Guide Key

It is compulsory to book your visit to the Scrovegni Chapel in
Episodes of Joachim and Anna
advance, since there are strict limits on the number of visitors
allowed in the chapel at any one time. Prior to entry, all visitors Episodes from the Life of Mary
must spend 15 minutes in a “decontamination chamber”, Episodes from the Life and
Death of Christ
and the duration of the visit to the chapel is also limited to
15 minutes. An explanatory film is shown while you wait in the The Virtues and Vices
chamber. The rest of the Eremitani complex is also worth a visit. The Last Judgment
PA D UA  185
Giardini dell’Arena (entrance
The Last Judgment
Piazza Eremitani).
This scene fills the entire
Tel 049 201 00 20.
west wall of the chapel. Its
∑ cappelladegliscrovegni.it
formal composition is closer
Open 9am–7pm daily & some
to the Byzantine tradition
late evenings. Closed 1 Jan,
than some of the other
1 May, 25 & 26 Dec. & see also
frescoes, with parts probably
Eremitani Museums p183. ^ 7
painted by assistants. A
Booking compulsory.
model of the chapel
is shown, being offered to Transport
the Virgin by Scrovegni. @ to Piazzale Boschetti.
Mary is Presented at the Temple

Giotto sets many scenes against
an architectural background,
using the laws of perspective to
give a sense of three dimensions.
Injustice
The Virtues and Vices
are painted
in monochrome.
Here Injustice is
symbolized by
scenes of war,
murder and robbery.
View towards entrance
Giotto
The great Florentine artist Giotto
(1266–1337) is regarded as the
father of Western art. His work,
with its sense of pictorial
space, naturalism and narrative
drama, marks a decisive break
with the Byzantine tradition of
the preceding 1,000 years. He is
the first Italian master whose
name has passed into posterity, and,
although he was regarded in his lifetime
as a great artist, few of the works attributed to
Lament over the Dead Christ him are fully documented. Some may have been
Giotto’s figures express their grief in painted by others, but his authorship of the frescoes
different ways, some huddled, some in the Scrovegni Chapel need not be doubted.
gesturing wildly.
R Basilica di Sant’Antonio domes, rising above a façade

Piazza del Santo. Tel 049 822 56 52. that combines Gothic with
Open 7am–7:30pm daily. Romanesque elements. The
This exotic church, with its interior is more conventional,
minaretlike spires and Byzantine however. Visitors are kept away
domes, is also known as Il Santo. from the high altar, which
It was begun in 1232 to house features Donatello’s magnificent
the remains of St Anthony of reliefs (1444–5) on the miracles
Padua, a preacher who modelled of St Anthony, and his statues
himself on St Francis of Assisi. of the Virgin, the Crucifixion and
Although he was a simple man several Paduan saints. There is
who rejected worldly wealth, the access to St Anthony’s tomb in
citizens of Padua built one of the the north transept, hung with
most lavish churches in Christen offerings and photographs of
dom to serve as his shrine. people who have survived
The outline reflects the influ serious illness or car crashes with
ence of Byzantine architecture; the saint’s help. The walls around
The lofty interior of Padua’s a coneshaped central dome is the shrine are decorated with
16th-century Duomo surrounded by a further seven large marble reliefs depicting
R Duomo and Baptistry

Baptistry: Tel 049 65 69 14.
Open 10am–6pm daily.
Closed Easter, 25 Dec. & ^
Padua’s Duomo was
commissioned from Michelan
gelo in 1552, but his designs were
altered during the construction.
Of the 4thcentury cathedral
which stood on the site, the
domed Romanesque Baptistry
still survives, with its frescoes by
Giusto de’ Menabuoi (c.1376).
The frescoes cover biblical stories,
such as the Creation, Christ’s
Passion, Crucifixion and Resurrec
tion and the Last Judgment. The Basilica di Sant’Antonio and Donatello’s statue of Gattamelata
The Brenta Canal

The River Brenta, between Padua and the Venetian
Lagoon, was canalized in the 16th century. Flowing
for a total of 36 km (22 miles), its potential as a
transport route was quickly realized, and fine villas
were built along its length. Today, these elegant
buildings can still be admired. Three open their
The picturesque town of Mira on the
doors to the public: the Villa Foscari at
Brenta Canal
Malcontenta, the Villa Widmann-Foscari Dolo
at Mira and the Villa Pisani at Stra. They
Fiessa d’Artico
can be visited either on an 8- to 9-hour
guided tour from Padua to Venice
(or vice versa) along the river on
a motor launch, or by bus, a Padova
cheaper and faster alternative.
Key 1 Villa Pisani

This 18thcentury villa
Tour route 0 kilometres 4
features an extravagant
Roads 0 miles 2 frescoed ceiling by Tiepolo.

PA D UA  187
St Anthony’s life, carved in

1505–77 by various artists,
including Jacopo Sansovino and
Tullio Lombardo. These are rather
cold by comparison with the
Crucifixion fresco (1380s) by
Altichiero da Zevio in the
opposite transept. This pageant-
like painting of everyday scenes
from medieval life shows
depictions of people, animals
and plants. One of four stone bridges spanning the canal around Prato della Valle
T Statue of Gattamelata These comprise two scenes from with exotic foliage, shaded by
Near the entrance to the Basilica the life of St Anthony in the ancient trees. The gardens were
stands one of the great Scuola del Santo, executed in used to cultivate the first lilacs
Renaissance works. This gritty 1511. The delightful saints’ lives (1565), sunflowers (1568) and
portrait of the mercenary soldier and scenes from the life of Christ potatoes (1590) grown in Italy.
Gattamelata (whose name means in the San Giorgio Oratory are
“Honey Cat”) was created in the work of two artists, Altichiero P Prato della Valle
1443–52, honouring a man who da Zevio and Jacopo Avenzo, The Prato (field) claims to be the
in his life did great service to the who painted them in 1378–84. largest public square in Italy,
Venetian Republic. Donatello and its elliptical shape reflects
won fame for the monument, Y Orto Botanico the form of the Roman theatre
the first equestrian statue made Via Orto Botanico 15. Tel 049 827 39 that stood on the site.
of this size since Roman times. 39. Open Apr, May & Oct: 9am–7pm St Anthony of Padua used to
daily; Jun–Sep: 10am–7pm Tue–Sun; preach sermons to huge crowds
P Scuola del Santo and Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 here, but subsequent neglect
Oratorio di San Giorgio ∑ ortobotanicopd.it saw the area turn into a malaria-
Piazza del Santo. Tel 049 822 56 52. Founded in 1545, Padua’s ridden swamp. The land was
Open 9am–1pm, 2:30–6pm daily (to botanical garden is the oldest in drained in 1767 to create the
5pm in winter). Closed 1 Jan, Europe, and it retains much of canal that now encircles the
25 Dec. & (combined ticket). its original appearance; one of Prato. Four stone bridges cross
These two linked buildings the palm trees dates to 1585. the picturesque channel, which
contain excellent frescoes, Originally intended for the is lined on both sides by statues
including the earliest cultivation of medicinal plants, of 78 eminent citizens of Padua.
documented paintings by Titian. the pathways now spill over On Saturdays there is a market.
3 Villa Foscari
Also known as the Malcontenta, this
Oriago villa was built by Palladio in 1560 and is
decorated with superb frescoes by Zelotti.
Laguna
Veneta
Fusina
Ca
na
Venezia
le
Nu
ov
iss
imo
Tips for Passengers

4 Padua to Venice: Mar–Oct: Wed, Fri and Sun. Dep Pontile del Portello,
20-min walk from the train station, 8am. Arr Riva degli Schiavoni 5:30pm.
4 Venice to Padua: Mar–Oct: Tue, Thu and Sat. Dep Riva degli Schiavoni
2 Villa Widmann-Foscari
8:45am. Arr Pontile del Portello 7pm.
Built in 1719, but altered
Booking necessary through a local travel agent or www.ilburchiello.it
in the 19th century, the
Ticket includes bus between Padua and Stra, boat tour and guide, entrance
interior is decorated in
to two villas (ticket for Villa Pisani not included). Return trip (not included in
a French Rococo style.
cost) by train or bus (approx 45 mins).
y Montagnana
* 12,000. V @ n Piazza Trieste
15 (0429 813 20). ( Thu am. Shops
closed Mon am & Wed pm.
Medieval brick walls encircle

this town, extending for 2 km
(1 mile), pierced by four
gateways and defended by
24 towers. Just inside the
castellated Padua Gate is the
town’s archaeological museum.
The Gothic-Renaissance Duomo
contains Paolo Veronese’s
Transfiguration (1555). Outside
The Euganean Hills, formed by ancient volcanic activity the city walls is Palladio’s Villa
Pisani (c.1560). Now rather
t Euganean Hills simply Arquà. Its name changed neglected, its façade features
* 10,000. n Viale Stazione 60,
in 1868 to honour the medieval the original owner’s name
Montegrotto Terme (049 892 83 11). poet Francesco Petrarca, or (Francesco Pisani) in bold letters
Petrarch (1303–74), who lived below the pediment.
The Euganean Hills, remnants here in his old age. He had often
of long-extinct volcanoes, rise sung the praises of the well-
abruptly out of the Veneto Plain tended landscape of olive
and offer plenty of walking groves and vineyards, and spent
opportunities. Hot springs his last few years in a house
bubble up out of the ground at frescoed with scenes from his
Abano Terme and Montegrotto poems. The house still contains
Terme, where scores of the poet’s desk and chair, his
establishments offer thermal bookshelves and his mummified
treatments, ranging from cat. Petrarch is buried in a
mudbaths to immersion in the sarcophagus in the piazza in
hot sulphurated waters. Spa front of the church.
cures such as these date back
to Roman times, and visitors P Villa Barbarigo
can see extensive remains of Valsanzibio. Tel 049 913 10 65. Open
the Roman baths and theatre Mar–Nov: 10am–1pm, 2pm–sunset.
at Montegrotto. & = 7 ∑ valsanzibiogiardino.it
To the north of Arquà is the Villa
R Abbazia di Praglia Barbarigo, the only one of scores Antique market in Montagnana
Via Abbazia di Praglia, Bresseo di Teolo. of villas, built by wealthy Paduans,
Tel 049 999 93 00. Open Mar–Oct: regularly open to the public. The
3:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 2:30– villa itself is only open to groups, u Este
4:30pm Tue–Sun. 8 Donations but the real attraction is the * 17,600. V @ n Via Guido Negri
welcome. ∑ praglia.it Baroque garden. Planted from 9 (0429 600 462). ( Wed & Sat am.
The Benedictine monastery at 1669, it is full of variety, with Shops closed Mon am (clothes) &
Praglia, 6 km (4 miles) west of fountains, statues and lakes. Wed pm (food).
Abano Terme, is a peaceful
haven in the tree-clad hills. The Excavations at Este have
monks have long been growing uncovered impressive remains
herbs commercially and there of the ancient Ateste people, who
is a shop selling aromatic wares. flourished from the 9th century
They also lead guided tours BC until they were conquered
of parts of the abbey and the by the Romans in the 3rd
Renaissance church (1490– century BC. The archaeological
1548), with its beautiful cloister. finds, including funerary urns,
figurines, bronze vases and
E Casa di Petrarca jewellery, are on display in the
Via Valleselle 4, Arquà Petrarca. excellent Museo Nazionale
Tel 0429 71 82 94. Open Tue–Sun. Atestino, set within the walls
Closed most public hols. & = of the town’s 14th-century castle.
The picturesque town of Arquà The museum also displays
Petrarca, on the southern edge The house of the poet Petrarch in the town examples of Roman and medieval
of the Euganean Hills, was once of Arquà Petrarca art, and pieces of local pottery,
famous since the Renaissance

period, and still produced.
E Museo Nazionale Atestino

Palazzo Mocenigo. Tel 0429 20 85. Open
daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
7 ∑ atestino.beniculturali.it
i Monselice
* 17,000. V @ n Via del
Santuario 6 (0429 78 30 26). ( Mon
& Fri. Shops closed Tue am (clothes),
Wed pm (food).
The sanctuary of San Giorgio on the hillside above Monselice
The town of Monselice stands at
the foot of two hills, one of which o Polesine and Environs
has been quarried extensively for Rovigo Adria, 22 km (14 miles) east of
rich deposits of crystalline min V @ n Piazza Ciceruacchio 1,
Rovigo, gave its name to the
erals. The other is topped by Porto Tolle (042 68 11 50).
Adriatic Sea and was once a
ruined Castle Rocca, now a Greek and later an Etruscan
nature reserve. It’s worth walking Polesine is the flat expanse port. A programme of silt depo
up the cobbled Via del Santuario of fertile agricultural land, sition, undertaken to increase
as far as San Giorgio, to see its crisscrossed by canals and Adria’s agricultural potential, left
exquisite inlaid marble work. subject to flooding, between the city dry, apart from a 24km
Other features on the way up the River Adige and the Po. The (15mile) canal. Among the
are the 13thcentury cathe Po Delta is now a national exhibits on display in the
dral and the statuefilled park and has a wealth Museo Archeologico is a
Baroque gardens of the of fascinating birdlife, complete iron chariot dating
Villa Nani that can be including egrets, from the 4th century BC.
glimpsed through the herons and bitterns.
gates. Nearby is The most scenic E Museo Archeologico
Castello di Monselice, areas are around Via Badini 59, Adria. Tel 0426 216 12.
a 14thcentury castle Scardovari and Porto Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
with period furnishings, Tolle, on the south Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec &
suits of armour, fres side of the Po.
coes and tapestries. Companies in Porto
Tolle offer canoe and p Chioggia
P Castello di Monselice bicycle hire and half * 56,000. @ V g n Lungomare
Via del Santuario. Tel 0429 Marble inlay detail day boat cruises. Adriatico 101. (041 40 05 87). ( Thu.
729 31. Open for guided from San Giorgio The modern city ∑ lididichioggia.it
tours only; Mar–Oct: 9am, of Rovigo has one
10am, 11am, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm daily; outstanding monument; the Chioggia is the principal fishing
Nov, Dec & Feb: 10am, 11am, 2pm & splendid octagonal church port on the lagoon and the
3pm daily; Jan: groups only; book in called La Rotonda (1594–1602), bustling, colourful fish market
advance. & 8 on the hour 9–11am, decorated with paintings and is a good reason to come here
3–5pm. ∑ castellodimonselice.it statues in niches. early in the day (open every
morning except Monday). Many
visitors enjoy the gritty character
of the port area, with its smells,
its vibrantly coloured boats and
the tangle of nets and tackle.
The town also has numerous
inexpensive restaurants which
serve fresh fish in almost every
variety. Eel, crab and cuttlefish
are the local specialities. There is
a beach area at Sottomarina,
on the western part of the island.
Worth seeking out for a special
visit is Carpaccio’s St Paul (1520),
the artist’s last known work,
which is permanently housed
Net mending in the traditional way, Chioggia in the church of San Domenico.
VERONA AND
LAKE GARDA
Verona is one of northern Italy’s most alluring cities, its noble
palaces, quiet cloisters and ancient streets every bit as romantic as
you would expect of Romeo and Juliet’s city. On its doorstep are the
well-known vineyards of Soave, Bardolino and Valpolicella, set against the rugged
slopes of the Little Dolomites. To the west lie the beautiful shores of Lake Garda,
a mere 30 minutes’ drive from Verona by car, but a world away in atmosphere.
Set within the curves of the Adige river, The massive Arena amphitheatre fills
Verona has been a prosperous and with crowds of 20,000 or more, who thrill
cosmopolitan city since the Romans to opera beneath the stars. All over the
colonized it in 89 BC. It stands astride city, art galleries and theatres testify to
two important trade routes – the a crowded calendar of cultural activities.
Serenissima, connecting the great Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda,
port cities of Venice and Genoa, and is renowned for its beautiful scenery.
the Brenner Pass, used by commercial The broad southern end of the lake,
travellers crossing the Alps from with its waterfront promenades, is very
northern Europe. This helps to explain popular with Italian and German visitors.
the Germanic influence in Verona’s Those in search of peace can escape
magnificent San Zeno church, or to the heights of the Monte Baldo
the realism of the paintings in the mountain range, rising above the
Castelvecchio museum, owing more eastern shore. The ridge marks the
to Dürer than to Raphael. western edge of the mountainous
Verona’s passion and panache, region north of Verona. Here is the
however, are purely Italian. Stylish great plateau of Monti Lessini, with
shops and cafés sit amid the impressive its little river valleys that fan out
remains of Roman monuments. southwards to join the Adige river.
Giardino Giusti in Verona, one of Italy’s finest Renaissance gardens

Ponte Pietra on the Adige river, with San Giorgio in Braida in the background, Verona
Exploring Verona and Lake Garda

Verona makes an excellent touring base, with lofty
Trento
mountains, castles and vineyards all within easy reach of
the city. Lake Garda, whose western shore is actually over the
border in Lombardy, is a popular destination for excursions RIVA DEL
GARDA
from Verona. The many resort towns have excellent hotels,
Torbole
harbourside fish restaurants and lakeside gardens. The lake
is also perfect for watersports such as windsurfing or dinghy
racing. Less exhausting are the steamer excursions, offering
mid-lake views of entrancing beauty.
Limone
sul Garda
Sights at a Glance
MALCÉSINE
1 Verona pp194–205 0 Garda
2 Grezzana q Peschiera
o
3 Soave w Solferino
ld
4 Montecchio Maggiore e Sirmione Peninsula
Ba
5 Valdagno pp212–13 Castelleto
di Brenzone
6 Bolca r Salò
te
Gargnano Monte
7 Giazza t Gardone Riviera
Mon
Baldo
Bogliaco
8 Bosco Chiesanuova y Riva del Garda
9 Sant’Anna d’Alfaedo u Malcesine Pai
Villanova
Toscolano- Spiazzi
GARDONE Maderno
RIVIERA S. Zeno di
Montagna
SALÒ Torri di Caprino
Key Portese Benaco Veronese
Dolce
Major road Costermano
Minor road Lago di GARDA
A d i ge
o
Garda
ogn
Secondary road Affi
Il P r
Motorway
Manerba Bardolino Volargne
Main railway
Minor railway Moniga
S. Ambrógio
Scenic route Lazise di Valpolicella
Regional border Desenzano
SIRMIONE
del Garda PENINSULA Pescantina
Summit
Bussolengo
Rivoltella Gardaland Castelnuovo
del Garda
Brescia PESCHIERA
Pozzolengo Ponti
Sul Míncio
LOMBARDIA
Sommacampagna
Tá
Olfino
Mi
nc Villafranca
rta
io di Verona
SOLFERINO
ro
Crocevia Valéggio
di Médole s. Mincio Povegliano
Guidizzollo Volta
Mantovana Mozzecane
Góito Roverbella
Mantova
Malcesine castle surrounded by colourful

houses on Lake Garda
VERONA AND LAKE GARDA  193
Getting Around
The roads around Verona are
heavily used by commercial
vehicles and commuter traffic,
so expect delays, especially
during morning and evening rush
hours. Motorways are faster, even
though those in this region are
among the oldest in Italy.
There are good rail services
linking Verona with Lake Garda
to the west and with Bolzano to
the north. The Brenner Pass also
runs northwards from Verona.
For information on ferries across
Lake Garda, see p210.
A white wine vineyard in front of the medieval Soave Castello
Staro
Trento
Monte Sparavieri
1976m
Recoaro
Terme
Corno d’Aquilio
1546m
ti Lessini Montagna
Mon Spaccata Ongaro
Malo
Selvavecchia GIAZZA Or
VALDAGNO ol o
SANT’ANNA BOSCO Priabona

CHIESANUOVA Selva Ag
D’ALFAEDO n o
di Progno
Vaggimàl
BOLCA Castelgomberto
Fane
Ch
Cerro
iam
Veronese Tríssino
Badia
po
Squaranco
Calavena Chiampo
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Me
Sovizzo
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ne
GREZZANA
Castagnè MONTECCHIO
MAGGIORE Alte Ceccato
Arbizzano Santa Maria Céllore
Alp
in Stelle
on
VENETO Vicenza
e
Poiano Costalunga
Montório
S. Zeno
S. Martino
VERONA Buon Albergo
SOAVE
San Bonifacio
San Giovanni Adige
Lupatoto
Zévio
Buttapietra
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Sunset over the city of Verona in the summer
1 Verona
Verona is a vibrant city, the second biggest in the
Veneto region (after Venice) and one of the most
prosperous in northern Italy. A UNESCO World Heritage
Site, its ancient centre boasts many magnificent Roman
remains, second only to those of Rome itself, and
palazzi, built of rosso di Verona, the local pink-tinged
limestone, by the city’s medieval rulers. Verona has
two main focal points: the massive 1st-century AD
Arena and the Piazza Erbe with its colourful market,
separated by a maze of narrow lanes lined with some Verona as seen from the Museo Archeologico
of Italy’s most elegant boutiques.
ROVERETO
TRENTO
VI
A
G.
XX
MA
Verona’s rulers Santo
IV
VIA AGG
ME San Giorgio
M
LI Stefano
in Braida
In 1263 the Scaligeri
VIA TOM
Ponte
Catena
IO
began their successful V I A FA R I N A
T PIAZZA
U B E R T I A VITTORIO
Museo
Archeologico
VIALE
127-year rule of Verona. VENETO MILLE Ponte
MASO
Sant'
Pietra
Elena
They used ruthless VIA AN
ZAN
I
Teatro
OLA
VIA
Romano
tactics in their rise
DA
GN
IV N
O Ponte Duomo
ENT
M PA
to power, earning Ponte GI M Garibaldi
VI
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SOR
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CA
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nicknames like A
P.
Anastasia
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VI
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BA
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Mastino (“Mastiff”) and IC
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BRESCIA
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MILANO San Zeno S. Eufemia Arche Scaligere
Cangrande (“Big Dog”), Maggiore
EL E
PIAZZA DEI
SIGNORI Santa Maria
RS
but once in power the Antica

AG
Ponte PIAZZA DELLE

LI E
d. Vittoria ERBE
Scaligeri family PIAZZA Ponte
A
SE
PIAZZA
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S. ZENO Nuovo
ARSENALE Casa di
brought peace to a city O
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VIC
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racked by civil strife and Ponte
CA
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PP
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inter-family rivalry. They Gavi Ponte

NG
Arena Navi
OS
Castelvecchio
proved to be relatively San Fermo
.B
VIA PIAZZA
ROM Maggiore
ER
A BRA
just and cultured rulers –
NA
RD
Museu Lapidario Museo Civico di

INO
the poet Dante was PA

L IO Maffeiano Storia Naturale
TA
welcomed to their court in OR
I
V.
N
EP PIAZZA
O
VITTORIA .
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ON CITTADELLA
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1301–4 and dedicated his RA
EL
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VA
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ON
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Aleardi
Paradise, the final part of PORTA E
NUO
PALIO VE
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VIA VA
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PIAZZALLE
the epic Divine Comedy,
I
TA
CIMITERO
AR
NI
L
POR
AN
to Cangrande I. Giardino
V. DE
RTO
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Zoologico
S SA
PIAZZA
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SO
Tomba
MO
BE
Verona fell to the Visconti of R. SIMONI

A RO
Aeroporto
COR
di Giulietta
VIA
LE
VIA
Villafranca
Milan in 1387, and a succession
ALT
U
L
14 km (9 miles) C
IA
EG
NO
of outsiders – Venice, France CIRC R
ige
DIG
DA
L C
AG G IO D I
SOL
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E
and Austria – followed before RO PIAZZALE E
Ad
LU N
PORTA
NUOVA
the Veneto was united with the VIA
F. F A C C
IO
Stazione
rest of Italy in 1866. Porta Nuova
MANTOVA
BOLOGNA
Ponte San
Francesco
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Fruit and vegetable stall in a side street of old Verona

VERONA  195
+ Castelvecchio armoured knights in combat, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045 806 26 5th-century brooches and glass
11. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from painted with a portrait of Christ Practical Information
1:30pm Mon); 9am–7pm public hols. the Shepherd in gold. The * 261,000. n Via degli
Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 9 = martyrdom scenes depicted on Alpini 9 (045 806 86 80).
∑ museodicastelvecchio.comune. the carved marble sarcophagus ∑ turismoverona.eu ( daily.
verona.it of SS Sergius and Bacchus (1179) Shops: Closed Wed pm (food),
This spectacular castle, built by are gruesomely realistic. Mon am (department &
clothing stores). _ Vinitaly –
Cangrande II between 1355 and The following section, which
Italy’s largest wine fair (Apr);
1375, has been transformed is devoted to medieval and
Festival della Lirica (opera
into one of the Veneto’s finest early Renaissance art, vividly festival) (end Jun–Aug); Estate
art galleries. Various parts of the demonstrates the influence of Teatrale Veronese, including
medieval structure have been northern art on local painters, Shakespeare Festival (end
linked together using aerial suggesting strong links with Jun–Aug).
walkways and corridors, Verona’s neighbours across the
designed by Carlo Scarpa to Alps. Here, instead of the serene Transport
k Villafranca 14 km (9 miles).
give striking views of the saints and virgins of Tuscan art,
VIA V @ Piazza Cittadella.
building itself, as well as the emphasis is on brutal realism.
FONTA N
the exhibits within, which This is summed up in the 14th-

are excellent and varied. century Crucifixion with Saints, from Teutonic invaders from
AD
EL
The first section contains which depicts the torture beyond the Alpine range.
FER
RO
a wealth of late Roman musculature of Christ and After the armour room, take
and early Christian the racked faces of the the walkway that leads
material, including a mourners in painful out along the river flank
7th-century silver plate detail. Far more lyrical of the castle, with its
Santa Maria
in Organo that shows is a beautiful dizzying views of the
Giardino 15th-century swirling waters of
Giusti
painting by Stefano the River Adige and
VI
SAL
I TA da Verona called the Ponte Scaligero
A
S. S
EPO
S.
L C RO
H The Madonna of the (see p196). Next,
C
IA
RA VICENZA
VIA S. NA
PADOVA Rose Garden. This turning a corner, one
ZARO VENEZIA
EMB
RE contains many finds Cangrande I,
SETT PIAZZALE
VIA XX PORTA
VESCOVO
allusions to popular his equestrian statue
medieval fables, dramatically displayed
O
including the figure out of doors on a

ID
RB
of Fortune with her Cangrande I’s horse in plinth. This 14th-

TO
O
wheel. In the painting ceremonial garb century statue once

C
ES
C
the Virgin sits in a graced Cangrande’s

N
A
FR
IA
V pretty garden alive with tomb (see p200). It is possible to
Cimitero
Monumentale
decorative birds and angels study every detail of the horse
gathering rosebuds. and rider draped in their
Other Madonnas from the ceremonial garb. Despite
15th century, attributed to Cangrande’s cherubic cheeks and
Sights at a Glance Giovanni Bellini, are displayed inane grin, his face is compelling.
1 San Zeno Maggiore among the late Renaissance Beyond lie some of the
2 Ponte Scaligero works upstairs. Jewellery, suits museum’s celebrated paintings,
3 Castelvecchio of armour, swords and shield notably Paolo Veronese’s
4 Arco dei Gavi bosses feature next, some dating Deposition (1565) and a portrait
5 Museo Lapidario Maffeiano back to the 6th and 7th centuries, attributed by some to Titian,
6 San Fermo Maggiore when Verona was under attack by others to Lorenzo Lotto.
7 Arena
8 Piazza dei Signori
9 Piazza delle Erbe
0 Santa Maria Antica
q Sant’Anastasia
w Duomo
e San Giorgio in Braida
r Santo Stefano
t Teatro Romano
y Museo Archeologico
u Santa Maria in Organo
i Giardino Giusti
o Museo Civico di Storia Naturale Courtyard of Castelvecchio
Around the Arena There are many carved funerary

monuments, and a large part of
Most visitors to Verona first arrive at Piazza Brà, a large, the collection consists of Greek
irregularly shaped square with a public garden. On the north inscriptions collected by the
side is an archway known as the Portoni della Brà. Dominating museum’s 18th-century
the eastern side of the piazza is the Roman Arena, Verona’s founder, Scipione Maffei.
most important monument, still in use today for operatic
R San Fermo Maggiore
performances. The piazza is ringed with Stradone San Fermo. Tel 045 59 28 13.
19th-century buildings resembling ancient Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,
temples and historical landmarks. 1–6pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. & ^
∑ chieseverona.it
San Fermo Maggiore consists of
not one but two churches. This
can best be appreciated from
the outside, where the eastern
end is a jumble of rounded
Romanesque arches below with
Ponte Scaligero, part of the old defence system of Castelvecchio pointed Gothic arches rising
above. The lower church, now
T Ponte Scaligero Continuing up Corso Cavour, rather dank due to frequent
This medieval bridge was built there are some fine medieval flooding, dates from 1065, but
by Cangrande II between 1354 and Renaissance palaces to see the upper church (1313) is more
and 1376. The people of Verona (especially Nos. 10, 11 and 19) impressive. It has a splendid
love to stroll across it to ponder before the Roman town gate, ship’s-keel roof and lots of
the River Adige in all its moods, the Porta dei Borsari, medieval fresco work.
or to admire summer sunsets is reached. The gate Frescoes from the
and distant views of the Alps. dates from the 14th century, just
Such is their affection for the 1st century BC, inside the main door,
bridge that it was rebuilt after but looking at are by Stefano de
the retreating Germans blew the pedimented Zevico. They show
it up in 1945, an operation that windows and niches the fate of four
involved dredging the river to it is easy to see what Franciscan
salvage the medieval masonry. influenced the city’s missionaries who
The bridge leads from Castel- Renaissance journeyed to India in
vecchio (see p195) to the architects. The Roman Arco dei Gavi, the mid-14th century.
Arsenal on the north bank of 1st century AD Nearby is the
the Adige, built by the Austrians E Museo Lapidario Brenzoni mausoleum
between 1840 and 1861 and Maffeiano (1439) by Giovanni di Bartolo,
now fronted by public gardens. Piazza Brà 28. Tel 045 590 087. Open with Pisanello’s Annunciation
Looking back from the gardens 8:30am–2pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, fresco (1426). In the south aisle
it is possible to see how the 25 & 26 Dec. & is an ornate pulpit of 1396
river was used as a natural moat This “museum of stone” displays with saints in canopied niches
to defend the castle, with the all kinds of architectural above, surrounded by frescoes
bridge providing the inhabitants fragments hinting at the last of the Evangelists and
with an escape route. splendour of the Roman city. Doctors of the Church.
T Arco dei Gavi and

Corso Cavour
Dwarfed by the massive brick
walls of Castelvecchio, the
monumental scale of this
Roman triumphal arch is now
hard to appreciate. Originally the
arch straddled the main Roman
road into the city, today’s Corso
Cavour. But French troops who
were occupying Castelvecchio in
1805 damaged the monument
so much that a decision was
made to move it to its present,
less conspicuous position just
off the Corso in 1933. The apse of the lower church of San Fermo Maggiore
VERONA  197
The Arena VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Verona’s amphitheatre, completed around AD 30, is the Practical Information

third largest in the world, after Rome’s Colosseum and the Piazza Brà. Tel 045 800 51 51
(concerts). ∑ arena.it
amphitheatre at Capua, near Naples. Originally, the Arena Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from
could hold almost the entire population of Roman Verona, 1:30pm Mon; last adm 6:30pm).
and visitors came from across the Veneto to watch mock battles Closes earlier on performance
and gladiatorial combats. Since then, the Arena has been days. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
7 partial. Operas & concerts
used for public executions, fairs, theatre performances, (see pp260–61).
bullfighting and opera.
Interior
The interior has
survived virtually
intact, maintained
by the Arena
Conservators
since 1580.
The façade of the Arena seen from Piazza Brà
The elliptical amphitheatre is 139 m

Gladiators and wild
(456 ft) long and 110 m (361 ft) wide.
beasts entered the
arena from both sides.
Stone seats
in 44 tiers
Below ground were cages for

lions, tigers and other wild beasts,
and a maze of passages.
Blood Sports
Prisoners of war, criminals
and Christians died in Opera in the Arena
their thousands in Today, performances of Verdi’s Aida and
the name of other popular operas can attract a capacity
entertainment. crowd of 25,000.
Street-by-Street: Verona
Since the days of the Roman Empire, the Piazza
Erbe has been the centre of Verona’s commercial
and administrative life. Built on the site of the
ancient Roman forum, it is an enjoyably chaotic
square, bustling with life. Shoppers browse in the
colourful market at stalls sheltered
from the sun by wide-brimmed
umbrellas. The massive towers and
palazzi of the Scaligeri rulers of
Verona have retained their
. Piazza dei Signori
medieval feel, even though This square is bordered by individual Scaligeri
they have been altered and palazzi linked by Renaissance arcades and
adapted many times. carved stone archways.
The 17th-century Palazzo

Maffei is surmounted by a
Statue of Dante balustrade supporting statues
Dante, the medieval poet, of gods and goddesses.
stayed in Verona as a guest of
the Scaligeri during his period A
SI
in exile from his native Florence. A
His statue (1865) looks down ST
A
N
on Piazza dei Signori. A
T
N
SA
SO
R
O
C
I
DE
Z A
AZ
Colonna di PI
I
San Marco OR
PI
(1528) is GN
SI
A Z
surmounted
Z A
by St Mark’s
Lion, the
DE
symbol of
LL
Venetian rule.
E
ER
BE
The fountain of
1368 is topped by a
figure known as the
Madonna of Verona;
in fact, the statue is Torre dei
V
Roman and probably Lamberti, 84 m

IA
Piazza delle Erbe symbolizes Commerce. (275 ft) high

C
Verona’s medieval herb market

A
P
is now lined with art galleries,

P
upmarket boutiques and inviting

E
LL
pavement cafés.
O
Palazzo della Ragione

The medieval Palace of Reason
features an elegant Renaissance
staircase. It leads from the courtyard
to the modern art gallery on the
upper floor.
VERONA  199
Via Sottoriva is lined Sant’Anastasia

with arcaded medieval Carved hunchbacks
houses and typifies the (gobbi), crafted in 1495,
heart of the old city. form the unusual supports
for the holy water stoups
in this church.
I
SS
BA
N
A DO VIA SOT TOR
ZZ ’ A
VI
P I AA N T S I A . Scaligeri Tombs
LU N G A D I C E D O N AT E L L I
S S TA
A In this masterpiece of
AN 14th-century Gothic
funerary art, soldier saints
stand guard around the
tombs, a reminder of the
IVA
military prowess of
Verona’s powerful
E medieval rulers.
LL
TE
S
2 Santa Maria Antica
C
is a little Romanesque
A
CA
V
VI church which dates

A
IA back to the 7th century.

ADIGE
LE
CH
IN The canopied tomb
T
TO
IA of Cangrande I rises
AR above the entrance.
M
TA
N
SA
VI CA
TE NU
S
PON
A LIG
OV
AR E
IA O
V
CH RI
E
V
IA
Z A CO
C
AZ S
PI NCE NI
R
Ponte Nuovo
IS
A IA
FR VIV The “new bridge” (1540)
TO
spans the Adige river,

PONTE NUOVO linking the hills on the east
bank of the city with
Verona’s historic centre.
A
Z
IZ
N
IA Key
V
Suggested route
LA
T EL
S
IA
V
Casa di Giulietta
The House of Juliet looks
the part, with its marble
balcony and romantic
setting, although there is
0 metres 100
no evidence linking this
house with the 0 yards 100
romantic legend.
Central Verona can be had by climbing

the 84-m (275-ft) Torre dei
The streets of this ancient city centre owe their grid-like Lamberti, which rises from the
layout to the order and precision of the Romans. At the heart western side of the courtyard.
is the lively Piazza delle Erbe, where crowds shop in the Behind the statue of Dante is
ancient marketplace. The fine palazzi, churches and the pretty Renaissance Loggia
del Consiglio, or council
monuments date mostly from the medieval period.
chamber, with its frescoed upper
façade (1493) and statues of
Roman worthies born in Verona,
including Catullus the poet, Pliny
the natural historian and Vitruvius
the architectural theorist.
The piazza is linked to Piazza
Erbe by the Arco della Costa, or
the arch of the rib, whose name
refers to the whale rib hung
beneath it, put up here as a
curiosity in the distant past.
R Santa Maria Antica

This tiny Romanesque church is
An elegant café in the spacious Piazza dei Signori almost swamped by the bizarre
Scaligeri tombs built up against
P Piazza delle Erbe In the centre of Piazza dei its entrance wall. Because Santa
Once the site of the Roman Signori is a 19th-century statue Maria Antica was their parish
forum, Piazza delle Erbe is named of Dante, who surveys the church, the Scaligeri rulers of
after the city’s old herb market. surrounding buildings with an Verona chose to be buried here,
Today’s stalls, shaded by huge appraising eye. His gaze is fixed and their tombs speak of their
umbrellas, sell everything on the grim Palazzo del military prowess (see p213).
from vegetables and Capitano, home Over the entrance to the
lunchtime snacks to of Verona’s military church is the impressive tomb
clothes and souvenirs. commander, and the of Cangrande I, or Big Dog
The Venetian lion equally intimidating (d.1329), topped by his
that stands on top of Palazzo della Ragione, equestrian statue. This statue
a column to the north the Palace of Reason, is a copy; the original is now
of the square marks or law court, both built in the Castelvecchio (see p195).
Verona’s absorption in in the 14th century. The other Scaligeri tombs are
1405 into the Venetian On the first floor of the next to the church, surrounded
empire. The statue- Palazzo della Ragione by an intricate wrought-iron
topped building that Stonework detail, is the Galleria d’Arte fence featuring the ladder
completes the north Piazza dei Signori Moderna Achille Forti, motif of the family’s original
end of Piazza Erbe is the a private collection of name (della Scala, meaning
Baroque Palazzo Maffei (1668), Veronese art ranging from 1840 “of the steps”). Towering above
now converted to shops and to 1940. Fine views of the Alps the fence are the spire-topped
luxury apartments.
The fountain that splashes
away quietly in the middle of
the piazza is often overlooked
amid the competing attractions
of the market’s colourful stalls.
Yet the statue at the fountain’s
centre dates from Roman times,
a reminder that this long piazza
has been in almost continuous
use as a marketplace for some
2,000 years.
P Piazza dei Signori

GAM Achille Forti: Palazzo della
Ragione Tel 045 800 1903. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–7pm Sat &
Sun. Torre dei Lamberti: Tel 045 927 30
27. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily. & The fountain in Piazza Erbe, erected in the 14th century
VERONA  201
tombs of Mastino II, or Mastiff

(d.1351) and Cansignorio,
meaning Noble Dog (d.1375).
These two tombs are splendidly
decorated with Gothic
pinnacles. In their craftsmanship
and design there is nothing else
in European funerary
architecture quite like these
spiky, thrusting monuments.
Plainer tombs nearer the
church wall mark the resting
place of other members of the
Scaligeri family – Mastino
(d.1277) who founded the The façade of the Duomo, Santa Maria Matricolare
Scaligeri dynasty, having been
elected mayor of Verona in Dominican order. Most inter- Romanesque portal carved
1260, and two who did not have esting is the Gothic portal, with by Nicolò, one of the master
dog-based names: Bartolomeo its faded 15th-century frescoes masons who carved the façade
(d.1304) and Giovanni (d. 1359). and carved scenes from the life of San Zeno (see pp202–3). Here
of St Peter Martyr. Inside, the two he sculpted the sword-bearing
R Sant’Anastasia holy water stoups are supported figures of Oliver and Roland,
Tel 045 59 28 13. Open Mar–Oct: on realistic figures of beggars, knights whose exploits in the
9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 1–6pm Sun; Nov– known as i gobbi, the hunchbacks service of Charlemagne were
Feb: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. (the one on the left carved in celebrated in medieval poetry.
& 7 ^ ∑ chieseverona.it 1495, the other a century later). Nearby stand saints and
A huge church, Sant’Anastasia Off the north aisle is the sac- evangelists with bold staring
was begun in 1290 and built to risty, home to Antonio Pisanello’s eyes and flowing beards.
hold the massive congregations fresco, St George and the Princess To the south there is a second
who came to listen to the (1433–8). Despite being badly Romanesque portal carved with
rousing sermons preached by damaged, the fresco still conveys Jonah and the Whale (removed
members of the fundamentalist something of the aristocratic for restoration) and comically
grace of the Princess of grotesque caryatids (load-
Trebizond, with her noble brow bearing figures).
and her ermine-fringed cloak, as The highlight is Titian’s
St George prepares to mount his Assumption (1535–40) in the
horse in pursuit of the dragon. first chapel on the left. Further
down is the entrance to the
R Duomo Romanesque cloister with
Tel 045 59 56 27. Open Mar–Oct: excavated remains of earlier
10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 1:30– churches on the site. It leads to
5:30pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm the baptistry, known as San
Mon–Sat, 1:30–5pm Sun. 7 & ^ Giovanni in Fonte (St John of
∑ chieseverona.it
the Spring). This 8th-century
The lofty, Romanesque interior of Visitors to Verona’s cathedral church features a huge marble
Sant’Anastasia pass through a magnificent font carved in 1200.
Romeo and Juliet

The tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, written by Luigi da Porto
of Vicenza in the 1520s, inspired countless poems, films, ballets
and dramas. At the Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house), Via
Cappello 27, (tel: 045 803 43 03), Romeo is said to have
climbed to Juliet’s balcony. In reality this is a restored
13th-century inn. The run-down Casa di Romeo is in
Via delle Arche Scaligere, while the so-called Tomba di
Giulietta, Piazza del Pontiere 35, (tel: 045 800 03 61), is in a
crypt below the cloister of San Francesco al Corso on Via del
Pontiere. The stone sarcophagus is empty and rather plain,
but the setting is atmospheric. Juliet’s house and tomb are
open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from 1:30pm Mon).
Watercolour of Juliet embracing the dying Romeo

Verona: San Zeno Maggiore

Built between 1120 and 1138 to house the
shrine of Verona’s patron saint, San Zeno is
northern Italy’s most ornate Romanesque
church. The façade is embellished with
marble reliefs of biblical scenes, matched
in vitality by bronze door panels showing
the miracles of San Zeno. Beneath an
impressive rose window, a graceful porch
canopy rests on two slim columns. A brick
campanile soars to the south, while a squat
tower to the north is said to cover the
Nave Ceiling
tomb of King Pepin of Italy (777–810). The nave has a magnificent example of a ship’s-keel
ceiling, so called because it resembles the inside of
an upturned boat. This ceiling was constructed in
1386, when the apse was rebuilt.
Altarpiece
Andrea Mantegna’s three-part altarpiece
(1457–59) depicts the Virgin and Child
with various saints. The painting served
as an inspiration to local artists.
KEY
1 Striped brickwork is typical of

Romanesque buildings in Verona.
Courses of local pink brick are
alternated with ivory-coloured tufa.
2 The campanile, started in 1045,
reached its present height of 72 m
(236 ft) in 1173.
3 The sanctuary rood screen
has marble statues of Christ and
the Apostles, dating from 1250,
ranged along it.
4 The rose window symbolizes
the Wheel of Fortune: figures
around the rim show the rise and
fall of human fortunes.
5 Marble side panels, carved in
1140, depict events from the life of
Christ to the left of the doors, and . Cloister
scenes from the Book of Genesis North of the church the fine, airy cloister (1293–1313)
to the right. has rounded Romanesque arches on one side and
pointed Gothic arches on the other.
VERONA  203
Bronze Door Panels VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The 48 bronze panels of the west doors are Practical Information

primitive but forceful in their depiction of biblical Piazza San Zeno. Tel 045 59
stories and scenes from the life of San Zeno. 28 13. ∑ chieseverona.it
Those on the left date from 1030 and survive Open 8:30am–6pm daily (from
from an earlier church on the site; those on the 12:30pm Sun); Nov–Feb: 10am–
right were made 100 years later. Huge staring 5pm Mon–Sat, 12:30pm–5pm
eyes and Ottoman-style hats, armour and Sun & pub hols. 5 times vary.
architecture feature prominently, and the Closed during Mass. & 7 ^
meaning of some scenes is not known – the
woman suckling two crocodiles, for example. Transport
@ 31, 32, 33 from Castelvecchio.
Descent into limbo Christ in Glory Human head
Nave and Main Altar

The nave of the church is
modelled on an ancient
Roman basilica, the Hall of
Justice. The main altar is
situated in the raised
sanctuary where the judge’s
throne would have stood.
. West Doors
. Crypt Each of the wooden doors has 24 bronze
The vaulted crypt contains the plates joined by bronze masks, nailed on
tomb of San Zeno, appointed to the wood to look like solid metal. A bas-
eighth bishop of Verona in AD relief above the doors depicts San Zeno
362, who died in AD 380. vanquishing the devil.
204  The VeneTo AReA By AReA
Across the Ponte Romano who succeeded in overcoming

his opponents, including Mark
The Ponte Romano, or Roman Bridge, links Verona’s city Antony and Cleopatra, to become
centre to the eastern bank of the Adige river. This upmarket the sole ruler of the Roman
residential district is dotted with fine palaces, gardens and world in 31 BC. The subject of
churches, and offers good views back on to the towers the female bust in the adjoining
cell is unknown. Next comes
and domes of the medieval city.
the tiny cloister, littered with
mosaics and ancient masonry
fragments, and a warren of
ancient rooms used to display
pottery, glass, inscriptions and
tombstones. Labelling stops
after a while, leaving visitors to
puzzle out the nature and age
of exhibits for themselves.
R Santo Stefano
Via Santo Stefano. Tel 045 834
85 29. Open during Mass and
religious ceremonies.
This is one of the city’s oldest
churches; the original, long-
demolished building was built
View from the Teatro Romano across the Adige river in the 6th century. It served as
Verona’s cathedral until the 12th
T Teatro Romano E Museo Archeologico century when the Duomo was
Rigaste Redentore 2. Tel 045 800 03 Rigaste Redentore 2. Tel 045 800 03 built (see p201) on the opposite
60. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from 60. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from bank of the Adige. Visitors are
1:30pm Mon; also open Mon am on 1:30pm Mon; also open Mon am on afforded a striking view of the
public hols). & 7 public hols). & Duomo across the river, taking
When this theatre was built, A lift carries visitors from in the Romanesque apse and
in the 1st century BC, the the Teatro Romano up the bishop’s palace alongside.
plays performed would through the cliffs to the Santo Stefano itself was rebuilt
have included satirical monastery above. This is at the same time by Lombard
dramas by such writers now converted into an architects and given its
as Terence and Plautus. archaeological museum octagonal red brick campanile,
The tradition continues in which panoramic city but the original apse survives.
with open-air perfor- views vie for attention Inside the church there is a
mances at the annual with the range of exhibits. Byzantine-influenced arrange-
Shakespeare festival. Augustus Caesar, The first part of the ment of a stone bishop’s seat
The theatre is built Museo Archeologico museum displays well- and bench, and a gallery with
into a bank above the restored mosaics, one 8th-century carved capitals. The
Adige river. The views over the of which depicts the kind of apse (often locked) is even older,
city must have been as entranc- gory gladiatorial combat that dating back to the original
ing to Roman theatre-goers as once went on in Verona’s 6th-century building. In the
the events on stage. Certainly it amphitheatre (see p197). crypt there are fragments of
is for the views that the theatre Such barbaric perfor- 13th-century frescoes and
is best visited today, since little mances, seen as a a 14th-century statue of
is left of the original stage area, legitimate way of St Peter.
though the semicircular seating disposing of criminals Towering above the
area remains largely intact. and prisoners of war, church to the east is
In the foreground of the view finally came to an end Castel San Pietro, fronted
is one of three Roman bridges in the early 5th century by flame-shaped
that brought traffic into the city. following a decree cypress trees. The
The only one to have survived, from the Christian present castle was
this had to be painstakingly Emperor Honorius. built in 1854 under
reconstructed after being In the little monastic Austrian rule, but it
blown up in 1945 by retreating cells to the side of this stands on the ruins of
German soldiers who were room, visitors can see an earlier castle which
attempting to delay the a bronze bust of the was built by the
advance of Allied troops. Of the first Roman emperor, Visconti of Milan
five arches, the two nearest to the young Augustus Figure of St Peter, when they captured
the theatre are least altered. Caesar (63 BC–AD 14), Santo Stefano Verona in 1387.
verona  205
R San Giorgio in Braida animals and fish provide an

San Giorgio is a rare example in extensive account of today’s
Verona of a domed Renaissance living world, making this a
church. It was begun in 1477 good museum for visiting
by Michele Sanmicheli, an with children.
architect best known for his
military works. Sanmicheli Y Giardino Giusti
also designed the classically Fossilized fish from Verona’s Via Giardino Giusti 2. Tel 045
inspired altar, which is topped natural history museum 803 40 29. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–
by Paolo Veronese’s Martyrdom 8pm; Oct–Mar: 9am–7pm.
of St George (1566). This E Museo Civico di Storia Closed 25 Dec. & 7
celebrated painting is outshone Naturale Hidden among the dusty
by the calm and serene Virgin Lungadige Porta Vittoria 9. Tel 045 807 façades of the Via Giardino
Enthroned between St Zeno 94 00. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, Giusti is the entrance to one
and St Lawrence (1526) by 2–6pm Sat, Sun & public hols. Closed of Italy’s finest Renaissance
Girolamo dai Libri. This work 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & = gardens. They were laid out in
has a beautifully detailed Verona’s natural history 1580 and, as with other gardens
background landscape and a museum contains an of the period, artifice and
lemon tree growing behind the outstanding collection of fossils, nature are deliberately
Virgin’s throne. which can be enjoyed by juxtaposed. The lower garden
experts and newcomers alike. of clipped box hedges, gravel
Whole fish, trees, fern leaves walks and potted plants is
and dragonflies are captured in contrasted with an upper area
extraordinary detail. The fossils of wilder woodland, the two
were found in rock in the parts linked by stone terracing.
foothills of the Little Dolomites Past visitors have included
north of the city during the English traveller Thomas
quarrying for building stone Coryate, who, writing in 1611,
(see Bolca, p207). called this garden “a second
Human prehistory is paradise”. The diarist John
represented by finds from Evelyn, visiting 50 years later,
ancient settlements around thought it the finest garden
Lake Garda, and there are in Europe. Today the
reconstructions of original lake garden makes an excellent,
villages. On the upper floor, picturesque spot for a
cases full of stuffed birds, quiet picnic.
Marquetry cockerel in Santa Maria

in Organo
R Santa Maria in Organo

Some of the finest inlaid
woodwork to be seen in Italy is
in this church. The artist was Fra
Giovanni da Verona, an architect
and craftsman who worked for
nearly 25 years, from 1477 to
1501, on these stunning
examples of illusionistic
marquetry. The seat backs in
the choir and cupboard fronts in
the sacristy are full of entertaining
detail. By clever interpretation of
perspective, Fra Giovanni gave
depth to flat landscapes,
depicted city views glimpsed
through an open window, and
created “cupboard interiors”
stacked with books, musical
instruments or bowls of fruit.
Most charming of all are the little
animal pictures – look out for the
rabbit on the lectern and the owl
and the cockerel in the sacristy. Italianate topiary and statuary in the Giardino Giusti
4 Montecchio
Maggiore
* 20,700. @ n Via Pietro Ceccato
88, Alta di Montecchio (0444 69 65
46). ( Fri am.
Visitors to industrialized
Montecchio Maggiore come
principally to see the two
14th-century castles on the
hill above the town. Although
these are known as the
Castello di Romeo and the
Castello di Giulietta (which
includes a restaurant), there
The 14th-century Castello Romeo, on a hill overlooking Montecchio is no evidence that they
belonged to Verona’s rival
2 Grezzana 3 Soave Capulet and Montague families
(see p201), but they look
* 9,680. @ ( 1st Wed & 3rd Fri * 6,200. @ n Foro Boario 1 (045
romantic and provide lovely
each month. 619 07 73). ( Tue am.
views over the vineyard-clad
In Grezzana itself, seek Soave is a heavily fortified town hills to the north.
out the 13th-century church ringed by 14th-century walls,
of Santa Maria, which (though known all over Europe because + Castello di Romeo
frequently rebuilt) retains its of the light and dry white wine Via Castelli 4. Open Sat & Sun. 8
robustly carved Romanesque that is produced and exported + Castello di Giulietta
font and its beautiful from here in great quantity. Via Castelli 4. Tel 0444 40 09 79.
campanile of gold, white Visitors will see few vineyards Open daily.
and pink limestone. around the town, since they are
mainly located in the hills to the
Environs north, but evidence of the indus-
Grezzana is in the foothills try can be seen in the gleaming
of the scenic Piccole Dolomiti factories on the outskirts, where
or Little Dolomites. Close to the Garganega grapes are
the town, at nearby Cuzzano, crushed and the fermented wine
is the 17th-century Baroque bottled. Cafés and wine cellars
Villa Allegri-Arvedi, which is in the town centre provide plenty
decorated with beautiful of opportunity for sampling the
frescoes by Ludovico Dorigny. excellent local wine.
To the south, in Santa Maria in The city walls rise up the hill
Stelle, is a Roman nymphaeum to the dramatically sited Rocca
(a shrine to the nymphs who Scaligera, an ancient castle
guard the freshwater spring) enlarged by the Scaligeri rulers of
next to the church (known as Verona in the 14th century. It has
the Pantheon). been furnished in period style.
P Villa Allegri-Arvedi + Rocca Scaligera

Cuzzano di Grezzana. Via Castello Scaligero. Tel 045 768 00 36.
Tel 045 90 70 45. Open for groups Open Mar–Sep: 9am–noon, 3–6:30pm The dramatic gorge of Montagna Spaccata,
only (book by phone). & 7 daily; Oct–mid-Feb: 9am–noon, 2–4pm north of Valdagno
∑ villarvedi.it daily (Jan–mid-Feb: Sat & Sun only). &
5 Valdagno
* 28,000. @ ( Tue & Fri am.
∑ comune.valdagno.vi.it
A scenic drive of 20 km
(12 miles) from Montecchio
Maggiore leads to Valdagno,
a town of woollen mills and
18th-century houses. Just
northwest is the Montagna
Spaccata, its rocky bulk split
by a dramatic 100-m- (330-ft-)
Rocca Scaligera, the ancient castle in Soave deep gorge and waterfall.
traditions survive. For example, 9 Sant’Anna

their huge mountain horns, d’Alfaedo
tromboni, are still part of
* 2,500. @ ( Wed am.
local festivities. ∑ valpolicellaweb.it
E Museo dei Cimbri Distinctively Alpine in character,

Via dei Boschi, 62. Tel 045 784 70 50. Sant’Anna d’Alfaedo is noted for
Open 3–6pm Sat & Sun. & 8 = the stone tiles used to roof local
∑ cimbri.it houses. The hamlet of Fosse,
immediately to the north,
is a popular base for walking
8 Bosco
excursions up the Corno
Chiesanuova d’Aquilio (1,546 m/5,070 ft),
Fossilized plant remains found in the rocks * 3,000. @ ( Sat am. ∑ comune. a mountain which boasts one
near Bolca boscochiesanuova.vr.it of the world’s deepest potholes,
the Spluga della Preta,
6 Bolca One of the principal ski 850 m (2,790 ft) deep.
* 500. @ n Via Villa Bolca (045 resorts of the region, Bosco More accessible is another
656 00 13). Shops closed Mon am Chiesanuova is well supplied natural wonder, the Ponte di
(clothes), Wed pm (food). with hotels, ski lifts and Veia, just south of Sant’Anna,
cross-country routes. To the a great stone arch bridging the
Pretty Bolca sits at the centre east, near Camposilvano, valley. Prehistoric finds have
of the Monti Lessini plateau, is the picturesque Valle delle been excavated from the
looking down the valley of the Sfingi (Valley of the Sphinxes), caves at either end. This
River Alpone and encircled by so called because of its spectacular natural bridge is
fossil-bearing hills. The most landscape of large and one of the largest of its kind
spectacular finds have been impressive rock formations. in the world.
transferred to Verona’s Museo
Civico di Storia Naturale (see
p205), but the local Museo di
Fossili still has an impressive
collection of fish, plants and
reptiles preserved in the local
basalt stone. A circular tour of
3 km (2 miles) from the town
(details available from the
museum) takes in the quarries
where the fossils were found.
E Museo di Fossili
Via San Giovanni Battista. Tel 045 656
50 88. Open 9am–noon, 2–6:30pm
daily (Mar–Oct: book for walking tour).
& ∑ museodeifossili.it
7 Giazza
* 150. @ Shops closed Wed pm
(food).
The small town of Giazza has

an almost Alpine appearance.
Its Museo dei Cimbri covers
the history of the Tredici
Comuni (Thirteen Communes).
In reality there are far more
than 13 little hamlets dotted
about the plateau, many of
them settled by Bavarian
farmers who migrated from
the German side of the Alps
in the 13th century. Cimbro,
their German-influenced dialect,
has now almost completely
disappeared, but other The town of Giazza, spectacularly situated on the Monti Lessini plateau
Around Lake Garda

Riva del
Garda, the largest and easternmost of the Italian lakes, Garda
is a favourite summer playground for sports lovers.
Strong winds make ideal conditions for windsurfing Torbole
and sailing, there are numerous yacht harbours and
artificial beaches, and luxury hotels offer tennis
and horse-riding facilities. The less energetic can
explore the lake and shore by steamer, while
Limone
the magnificent scenery of craggy peaks and sul Garda
spectacular sunsets will appeal to every visitor.
Malcesine
Assenza
Malcesine
The streets of this town are Brenzone
full of character, clustering
beneath an imposing Gargnano Castelletto
medieval castle.
Bogliaco
La Gardesana
Toscolano
Maderno
Gardone
Riviera
Torri del Benaco

Salò
Desenzano
Portese With its lively harbour
Garda and palm-fringed
promenades, Desenzano
is the main terminus for
Manerba Bardolino steamer excursions.
Moniga Bardolino gave its

name to the well-
known red wine.
Lazise
Sirmione
Desenzano
The Sirmione
peninsula is best
Peschiera
seen from the lake.
del Garda
Key
Torri del Benaco
Steamer routes Built by the Republic
Car ferry of Venice in 1452, the
Hotel Gardesana was
originally used to
0 kilometres 10
host the meetings of
0 miles 5 the Council.
Malcesine on the shore of Lake Garda, surrounded by dramatic cliffs
La Gardesana
This is the name given to the
143-km (89-mile) perimeter
road that hugs the lakeshore.
For much of its route the road
is cut through solid rock,
sometimes following a narrow
ledge in the cliff face,
sometimes passing through
tunnels (around 80 in total).
The switchback route offers
spectacular views at every turn,
particularly at Gargnano, and
there are numerous viewing Lake Garda steamer at dusk near Peschiera
points. Places of interest along
La Gardesana include the 0 Garda w Solferino
splendid 18th-century gardens * 3,400. @ n Mar–Oct. Piazzetta * 2,118. @ ( Sat pm. Shops
of Palazzo Bettoni at Bogliaco Donatori di Sangue 1 (045 725 58 24). closed Mon pm.
and the castle at Riva del Garda. ( Fri am. Shops: closed Wed pm
(food). ∑ tourism.verona.it The allied armies of France and
Sardinia under Napoleon III
Numerous pavement cafés met the Austrian army at the
brighten the streets around the small village of Solferino in 1859,
central Palazzo dei Capitani, built as part of what was the wider
in the 15th century for the use of battle for the unification of the
the Venetian militia. Prehistoric Italian peninsula. The Battle of
rock engravings feature along Solferino left more than 6,000
the Strada dei Castei, an old dead and 40,000 wounded,
route above the town. abandoned without medical
care or burial. Shocked by such
neglect, a Swiss man named
q Peschiera Henri Dunant began a
The scenic tunnel on the road to Limone campaign for better treatment.
* 8,900. @ V n Piazzale
The result was the first Geneva
Bettelone 15. (045 755 16 73). ( Mon
Convention, signed in 1863, and
Lake Trips am. Shops: closed Wed in winter.
∑ tourism.verona.it the establishment of the
Lake Garda’s ferries are still International Red Cross. In the
called steamers, even though At Peschiera the Mincio river town of Solferino there is a war
they are diesel-powered today. flows out of Lake Garda to join museum and an ossuary chapel,
The major towns around the the Po river. The main site of lined with bones from the
southern rim of the lake all interest is a fortress built in the battlefield. There is also a
have jetties where visitors can 19th century. Named Fortezza memorial to Dunant built by the
buy a ticket and board the
del Quadrilatero because of its Red Cross with donations from
boat for a leisurely cruise.
square shape, it replaced a member nations.
Gardens and villas that are
otherwise hidden from view 15th-century stronghold.
can be seen from the water.
A trip from one end of the Environs
lake to the other takes Just outside town are Parco
approximately 2 hours 20 Natura Viva, a zoo with a safari
minutes by hydrofoil, and 4 park and model dinosaurs, and
hours by steamer. Catamarans Gardaland® Resort, a theme park
also operate around the with a superb SEA LIFE aquarium
southern end of the lake. (free bus from Peschiera station) .
O Parco Natura Viva

Nr. Bussolengo. Tel 045 717 01 13.
Open mid-Mar–Nov: 9am–4pm.
Closed early Jan–Feb. & 7
∑ parconaturaviva.it
 Gardaland® Resort
Loc. Ronchi, 37014 Castelnuovo del
The hydrofoil operating out of Garda. Tel 045 644 97 77. Open end
Desenzano harbour Apr–Sep: daily; Oct & Christmas period: The ossuary chapel at Solferino, lined
Sat & Sun. & 7 ∑ gardaland.it with skulls
e Sirmione Peninsula
Charming Sirmione is a finger of land extending
into the southern end of Lake Garda, connected to
the mainland by a bridge. The Roman poet Catullus
(born in 84 BC) owned a villa here: the ruins of the
Grotte di Catullo lie among ancient olive trees at
the northern tip. The Rocca Scaligera castle stands
guard at the base of the peninsula, and beyond,
the narrow stone-paved View Towards the Grotto
streets of the village The high central tower commands
give way to peaceful views over the castle and the whole
of the Sirmione peninsula.
lakeside walks and
elegant spa hotels.
. Rocca Scaligera
The castle was built in the
13th century by the Scaligeri of
Verona. It is cleverly designed
to trap shipborne invaders,
leaving them vulnerable to
missiles dropped from the
castle walls.
KEY
1 Piazza Castello
2 The moat, originally a
complex defence system, is
today home to schools of carp.
3 The main keep tower was
used for bombarding attackers
trapped below.
4 The inner harbour provided
a haven for fishermen during lake
storms and an anchorage for the
castle fleet.
5 The drawbridge is heavily
fortified, linking the castle to
Visiting the Peninsula
the mainland and offering an
Cars must be parked
escape route to the castle’s
before entering Sirmione,
inhabitants.
leaving the medieval
streets for pedestrians.
verona and lake garda  213
ViSitorS’ CheCkLiSt
n Viale Marconi 8 (030 91 61 14).
∑ sirmionebs.it
Rocca Scaligera: tel 030 91 64 68.
open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
8:30am–1pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 25 Dec. & Grotte di Catullo:
tel 030 91 61 57. open 8:30am–
7:30pm Tue–Sat (Nov–Feb: to
5:30pm), 9:30am– 6:30pm Sun &
pub hols (Nov–Feb: 8:30am–2pm).
Lakeside Walk Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
Following the eastern shores of the peninsula, this
pretty walk links the village to the Grotte di Catullo. Transport
@g
San Pietro
Founded in AD 765, on
Sirmione’s highest point,
this church contains a
12th-century fresco of
Christ in Majesty.
. Grotte di Catullo
This complex of villas, baths and
shops, built as a resort for wealthy
Romans from the 1st century BC,
lies ruined here. Finds are displayed
in the Antiquarium building.
the Scaligeri
The Rocca Scaligera is one of many castles built
throughout the Verona and Lake Garda region by the
Scaligeri family (see p194). During the turbulent 13th
and 14th centuries, powerful military rulers fought
each other incessantly in pursuit of riches and power.
Despite the autocratic nature of their rule, the
Scaligeri brought a period of peace and prosperity
to the region, fending off attacks by the predatory
Visconti family who ruled neighbouring Lombardy. The Scaligeri ruler, Cangrande I
r Salò t Gardone Riviera long been a popular resort – the

* 10,000. @ ( Sat am. * 2,500. @ n Via Repubblica 8. magnificent 19th-century Villa
(0365 203 47). Alba (now a congress centre) was
Locals prefer to associate this built for the Austrian emperor to
elegant town with Gaspare da Gardone’s most appealing escape the bitter winters of his
Salò (1540–1609), the inventor feature is the terraced public park own country. The Art Deco
of the violin, rather than with that cascades down the hillside, Grand Hotel on the waterfront
Mussolini, the World War II planted with noble and exotic was built for lesser beings.
dictator. Mussolini set up the trees. Equally exotic are the High above the town is the
so-called Salò Republic in 1943 Mediterranean and African Villa il Vittoriale, built for the
and ruled northern Italy from plants in the Hruska Botanical poet Gabriele d’Annunzio. His
here until 1945, when he was Gardens, founded in 1910, which Art Deco villa has blacked-out
shot by the Italian resistance. benefit from the town’s mild windows (he professed to
Happier memories are evoked winters. Gardone has loathe the world) and is full of
by Salò’s buildings, including curiosities, including a coffin-
the cathedral with its unusual shaped bed. The garden has a
wooden altarpiece (1510) by landlocked warship, the prow
Paolo Veneziano. The main raised high over Lake Garda.
appeal of the town derives from
its pastel-coloured waterfront P Hruska Botanical Gardens
buildings, picturesque squares Via Roma. Tel 336 41 08 77.
and alleyways, and a long Open Mar–Oct: 9am-7pm daily.
pedestrian promenade with & ∑ hellergarden.com
beautiful views of the lake. P Villa il Vittoriale
Salò marks the beginning of Via Vittoriale 12. Tel 0365 29 65 11.
the Riviera Bresciana, where the Open Apr–Sep: 8:30am–8pm daily;
shore is lined with lovely villas Oct–Mar: 9am–5pm daily; ticket office
and grand hotels set in semi- closes 1 hour earlier. Closed 1 Jan, 24
tropical gardens. The Art Deco Grand Hotel in Gardone Riviera & 25 Dec. & = 8 - ∑ vittoriale.it
Valpolicella Wine Tour 4 Affi

This wine-producing village is surrounded
This circular tour takes in the beautiful, remarkably by vineyards planted in the sheltered
varied scenery of the wine district that lies between basin of the Adige Valley.
Verona and Lake Garda. On the shores of Lake Garda
itself, deep and fertile glacial soils provide sustenance
for the grapes that are used to make Bardolino,
a wine that is meant to be drunk young
(see p240). Inland, the rolling foothills
of the Lessini mountains shelter
hamlets where lives and working
rhythms are tuned to the needs
of the vines. These particular
vines are grown to produce the
La
go
equally famed Valpolicella, a red

di G
wine that varies from light and

arda
fruity to full-bodied.
3 Bardolino
Famous for its light
red wine, Bardolino
hosts a grape festival
Tips for Drivers
in September and
Starting point: Verona. has numerous cellars
Peschiera
Length: 45 km (28 miles). offering tastings. di Garda
Approximate driving time: 2 Lazise
3 hours. Lazise has long been the
Stopping-off points: The main Key chief port of Garda’s
village of the Valpolicella region, eastern shore, its
San Pietro in Cariano, has cafés Tour route picturesque harbour and
and restaurants. Other roads medieval church guarded
by a 14th-century castle.
u Malcesine
* 3,500. @ ( Sat.
German visitors who come

to Malcesine trace the journey
taken by the poet Goethe in
1788. His travels were full
of mishaps, and at Malcesine
he was accused of spying
and was locked up.
From Malcesine, visitors
can take the rotating cable
car up to the broad ridge
of Monte Baldo (1,745 m/
5,725 ft). The journey takes
15 minutes, and on a clear
Looking across Lake Garda from Riva del Garda day it is possible to see
the distant peaks of the
y Riva del Garda the region’s prehistoric lake Dolomites, including the
* 16,000. @ n Largo Medaglie
villages, built by driving huge Brenta range. Footpaths for
d’Oro (0464 55 44 44). ( 2nd Wed piles into the lake bed to walkers are signposted at
(& 4th Wed in summer). Shops: support platforms. The lake the top. The lower slopes are
closed Mon (non-food) in winter. is popular with windsurfers. designated nature reserves;
∑ gardatrentino.it a good place to see the local
+ Rocca di Riva flora is the Riserva Naturale
Riva’s waterfront is overlooked Piazza Cesare Battisti 3/a. Tel 0464 57 Gardesana Orientale, just
by the moated Rocca di Riva, 38 69. Open mid-Mar–Oct: Tue–Sun to the north of Malcesine,
a former Scaligeri fortress. Inside (daily in Jul–Sep). & 7 = on the western side of
is a museum with exhibits from ∑ museoaltogarda.it Monte Baldo.
5 Sant’Ambrogio di 6 Gargagnago
Valpolicella The Alighieri wine
Trento Apart from red wine, this estate is owned by
village is a source of the pink a direct descendant
stone used for Verona’s palaces. of the medieval poet
Dante, and set around
a 14th-century villa
San Giorgio built by Dante’s son.
San Floriana Stone cottages at San Giorgio in Valpolicella
San Pietro 7 Pedemonte

in Cariana The Villa Santa Sofia
wine estate operates
out of a theatrical villa
designed by Palladio
but never completed.
Ad
Pescantina ige
Biffi
Padova
1 Verona
0 kilometres 3 The city has numerous
0 miles 2 old-fashioned bars, called
osterie, where visitors can
go to sample local wine.
THE DOLOMITES
The name of the Dolomites conjures up a vision of spectacular
mountains, as noble and awe-inspiring as the Alps. To the south
of the region lie the cities of Feltre, Belluno and Vittorio Veneto.
To the north is the renowned ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo.
In between, travellers will encounter no more cities – just
spectacular panoramas unfolding endlessly before them
and pretty hamlets tucked into remarkably lush and sunny
south-facing valleys.
The Dolomites cover a substantial portion breakup of the Austro-Hungarian

of the Veneto’s landmass, and it is easy to empire at the end of World War I. Some
forget when visiting the cities of the flat of that war’s fiercest fighting took place
Veneto Plain that behind them lies this in the Dolomites, as both sides tried to
range of mountains rising to heights of wrest control of the strategic valley
more than 2,000 m (6,500 ft). Catering for passes linking Italy and Austria-Hungary.
an urban population hungry for fresh air Striking war memorials in many
and freedom, the towns and villages of villages and towns provide a sad
the Dolomites have striven to balance the reminder of that time.
needs of tourism and nature. The region is renowned for its winter
Italian is the region’s principal language, sports facilities. International cross-
but in the northwest a German influence country ski competitions were held in
can sometimes be heard, reflecting the Cortina d’Ampezzo as early as 1902,
region’s strong historic links with the and in 1956 the town hosted the Winter
Austrian Tyrol. Once ruled by the Olympics. Today, Cortina is considered to
Habsburgs, certain areas of the region be Italy’s most exclusive resort – the winter
only became part of Italy in 1918, after the playground of film stars and royalty.
Town square at the historic Feltre in the Dolomites

Dito di Dio (God’s Finger) mountain reflected in Lake Sorapiss at sunrise
218  THe VeneTO aRea by aRea
Exploring the Dolomites

The environment of the Dolomites is completely different from
the industrialized Veneto Plain. Huge areas are designated nature
reserves, while others, accessible by chair lifts, allow visitors to
enjoy the views and appetite-sharpening treks in the mountain
meadows. Refuges, dotted along the high trails, offer dormitory
accommodation and refreshments, while hamlets have
comfortable hotels. Snow covers the peaks from
CORTINA
October to May, and it is possible to ski all year D’AMPEZZO
round on Marmolada; at 3,343 m (10,970 ft),
the highest peak in the Dolomites. Falzarego
Cinque Torri
Bolzano Arabba 2366m
S
Pieve di TE
Livinallongo O MI
D OL
Selva di Cadore
THE
VA
Marmolada LZ
3343m
Rocco O
LD
Piétore A
Alleghe Zoldo Alto
N
A
Monte Civetta
3220m
Celàt
Cencenighe Dont
Falcade Agordino
Listolde
Co
Monte S. Lucano
2409m
rdé
vol
e
Monte Agner Agordo

2872m
VENETO
Gosaldo si
ne
Mountain chalet near the stadium at Cortina d’Ampezzo lu
B el
iti
om
ol
Sights at a Glance D
lle
Vignole
de
Gron
2 Misurina
le
na
3 Pieve di Cadore Bolzano o

zi Sédico
4 The Dolomites Monte Pavione Na S. Giustina
2334m o
(Dolomiti) pp222–3 rc
5 Belluno Áune
Pa Trichiana
6 Valzoldana Lamòn Piave

Busche Mel
7 Feltre Pedavena
8 Vittorio Veneto
i sm FELTRE
Fonzaso
C
o
Key
n
Major road Giaroni

Minor road Primolano Carpèn
Br
en
Motorway Casere
ta
n
mo
Main railway
ón
Ci s
zz
Minor railway
St i
Scenic route
Regional border Duero Treviso
Bassano del Grappa
International border
Summit

the dolomites  219
Dobbiaco
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
2999m
r e San Pietro
MISURINA o di Cadore
Giralba d
a
Ansi C Santo Stéfano Sappada
e i Auronzo di Cadore
di Cadore
Stabiziane Lago di Monte Terza Grande
S. Caterina 2585m
Grup
po del
le Marma Lorenzo di
ro l e
Cadore
San Vito 0 kilometres 10
di Cadore
Domegge di Cadore 0 miles 5
Va l
Lago di Pieve
l
PIEVE DI
e
di Cadore
’A CADORE
d
mp
Vodo e z zo
Valle di Cadore
Cadore
Cibiana
di Cadore Monte Pera
2333m
Fornesighe
ve
Forno di Zoldo
Pi a
Monte Belvedere
2061m
Ma
Longarone
e
Igne Monte Pelmo from Zoppe di Cadore
Monte Schiara
2563m Getting Around
The S50 and S51 are kept clear of
Ponte snow all year. There are steep
nelle Alpi gradients on the S48 and minor
roads, so use snow chains in winter.
BELLUNO Roadside notices warn when the
Monte Cavallo high passes are closed. There is only
2251m
one railway line (up the Piave Valley),
Lago di
San Croce but the region is well served by
io
gl comfortable express buses.
n si
Fadalto Ca
l
de
s co
Bo
Revine
VITTORIO
VENETO
Tarzo
Cordignano
Bagnolo
Treviso
Piaggio Vespa truck, a common sight in the Dolomites

1 Cortina
d’Ampezzo
* 6,800. @ n Corso Italia 81 (0436
86 90 86). ( Tue & Fri am.
∑ cortinadolomiti.eu
Italy’s top ski resort, much

favoured by the smart set from
Turin and Milan, is well supplied
with restaurants and bars.
The reason for its popularity is
the dramatic scenery, which
adds an extra dimension to
the pleasure of speeding down
the slopes. Guests are surrounded Strolling along the Corso Italia in Cortina d’Ampezzo
by crags and
spires, which rise skyward, During the summer months,
thrusting their weather-sculpted Cortina becomes an excellent
shapes above the trees. base for walkers. Information
As a consequence of hosting on the many trails and guided
the 1956 Winter Olympics, walks is available from the
Cortina has better-than-normal tourist office or, during the
sports facilities. There is a ski summer, from the Guides’
jump and a bobsleigh run, the office opposite.
Olympic ice stadium holds Visitors can also take the
skating discotheques, and cable car Freccia nel Cielo
there are several swimming (Arrow in the Sky), which
pools as well as tennis goes to a height of 3,243 m
Skiers at Cortina courts and riding facilities. (10,639 ft) above sea level.
The Dolomite Road Tips for Drivers

The Strada delle Dolomiti, or Dolomite Road, is one of Starting point: Passo Pordoi.
the most beautiful routes anywhere in the Alps and is a Length (within the Veneto):
magnificent feat of highway construction. It starts in the 35 km (22 miles).
Approximate driving time:
Trentino-Alto Adige region at Bolzano and enters the Two hours, but allow a full day
Veneto region at Passo Pordoi, at 2,239 m (7,346 ft) the to include the return journey
most scenic of all the Dolomite passes. From here the route and time to stop and enjoy
follows the winding S48 for another 35 km (22 miles) east the stunning scenery.
Stopping-off points: The small
to the resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. towns of Pieve di Livinallongo
There are plenty of stopping places along the route where and Andraz have good cafés
it is possible to stop and enjoy the spectacular views. and restaurants.
In many of the ski resorts, cable cars will carry
visitors up to Alpine refuges (some
with cafés attached) that are
open from mid-June to mid-
September. These refuges
mark the start of a series
of signposted walks.
Bolzano
1 Passo Pordoi
To the north of Passo 2 Arabba
Key Pordoi, the Gruppo Arabba is a pleasant
di Sella rises to resort with a cable car to
Tour route 3,152 m (10,340 ft). Porta Vescovo (2,478 m/
Other roads 8,129 ft) to the south.
THE DOLOMITES  221
2 Misurina Take the toll road that

* 82. @ n Via Monte Piana 2
climbs northeast for
(0435 390 16). Open Jul–Aug.
8 km (5 miles) to the
∑ auronzomisurina.it Auronzo mountain
refuge and to the
Smaller and quieter than base of the Tre Cime
Cortina, Misurina nestles by di Lavaredo peaks
the exquisite Lake Misurina. (2,999 m/9,840 ft).
The lake’s mirror-like surface Titian’s house at Pieve di Cadore
reflects the peaks of Monte
Sorapiss and the Cadini group. 3 Pieve di Cadore a dramatic ravine, and the road
* 4,000. @ n ( Wed am (at Tai).
north to Comelica and Sesto is
∑ infodolomiti.it noted for its Alpine scenery
and its traditional balconied
For centuries the Cadore forests houses. Continuing northeast,
supplied Venice with its timber. the Piave river can be followed
The main town of this vast to its source, 8 km (5 miles)
mountainous region is Pieve north of Sappada.
di Cadore, primarily known as
the birthplace of Titian. The P Casa di Tiziano
humble Casa di Tiziano can Via Arsenale 4. Tel 0435 322 62.
be visited, and the nearby Open Mar–Oct: 10am–noon,
Museo Archeologico has 4–6:30pm daily. &
exhibits of finds from the E Museo Archeologico
pre-Roman era. Romano e Preromano
Principally, though, this is Palazzo della Magnifica Comunità
a base for touring the scenic Cadorina, Piazza Tiziano 2. Tel 0435
One of the creeks flowing into delights of the region. North 322 62. Open Jun–Sep: Tue–Sun
Lake Misurina of Pieve the valley narrows to (Aug: daily); Oct–May: Sat & Sun. &
0 kilometres 5
5 Falzarego 0 miles 2
War memorials record
the fighting that took
4 Andraz
place here in 1914–18
The partially restored Castello
on the frontier between
di Andraz, sitting on a rocky
Austria and Italy.
outcrop, was built in the 14th
century to prevent banditry
and to control the approach
to the Passo Falzarego.
J
Belluno
J Falzarego
Descending to Cortina,
the view is dominated by
the irregularly shaped
3 Pieve di Livinallongo
The chief town of the scenic Cordevole Cinque Torri (Five Towers).
Valley, Pieve offers spectacular views of Visitors at Passo Falzarego, by the
dolomitic peaks and cliffs. war memorials
4 The Dolomites
The Dolomites are the most distinctive and beautiful mountains in Italy.
They were formed of mineralized coral which was laid down beneath the
sea during the Triassic era, and uplifted when the European and African
continental plates dramatically collided 60 million years ago. Unlike the
glacier-eroded saddles and ridges of the main body of the Alps, the pale
rocks here have been carved by the corrosive effects of ice, sun and rain,
sculpting the cliffs, spires and “organ pipes” that we see today. The
eastern and western ranges of the Dolomites have slightly different
characteristics. The eastern section is the more awe-inspiring, especially
the Catinaccio (or Rosengarten) range, which is particularly beautiful, Onion dome,
turning rose pink at sunset. a common local feature
Dobbiaco
Strada delle Dolomiti Rienza
N49
One of the most spectacular routes

Tr e C ime
through the Dolomites links Bolzano
N51 di L a va red o
with Cortina d’Ampezzo (see p220).
It follows the lie of the land, passing Lago di Misurina
some of the greatest peaks, and the
most majestic landscape. Cortina
Sasso d’Ampezzo
L ungo
N48
Bolzano T orri de l Cinque
V ai ole t N5
1
Pieve di
Canazei Tor r i Cadore
Ad
N2
ig
41
Mar molada
e
0 kilometres 10
N12
0 miles 5
4,000 m
(13,123 ft)
Distinctive Peaks of the Dolomites Marmolada
The peaks of the Dolomites include several 3,343 m (10,968 ft)
with distinctive shapes and some of the highest Sasso Lungo
mountains in the range. Many are easily 3,179 m (10,430 ft)
identifiable and have been individually named.
3,000 m
(9,842 ft)
Cinque Torri
2,366 m (7,762 ft)
2,000 m
(6,562 ft)
Approximate heights
1,000 m
(3,281 ft)
The Cinque Torri or Five Sasso Lungo is a tall peak Marmolada is the highest
Towers rise from one base easily recognized by its peak in the Dolomite chain.
between Passo Falzarego distinctive scar. It is joined A cable-car ascends to
and Cortina d’Ampezzo. to the Sasso Piatto. 3,000 m above the glacier.
Nature in the Dolomites

Forests and meadows support a breath-
taking richness of wildlife in the region.
Alpine plants, which flower between
June and September, have evolved their
miniature form to survive the harsh winds.
The Flora
Lago di Misurina is a large and beautiful lake

lying beside the resort of Misurina. The crystal-clear
waters reflect the surrounding mountains, mirroring
various peaks such as the distinctive and dramatic
Sorapiss, in shimmering colours.
Gentian roots The orange
are used to mountain lily
make a bitter thrives on sun-
local liqueur. baked slopes.
The pretty burser’s Devil’s claw has

saxifrage grows in distinctive pink
clusters on rocks. flower heads.
Outdoor activities in this area of dramatic
landscapes include skiing in winter, and walking and The Fauna
rambling along the footpaths, and to picnic sites,
in summer. Chairlifts from the main resorts provide
easy access up into the mountains themselves,
transporting you into some breathtaking scenery.
The ptarmigan changes its plumage

Torri del Vaiolet Tre Cime di Lavaredo from mottled brown in summer to snow
2,243 m (7,375 ft) 2,999 m (9,839 ft) white in winter for effective camouflage.
It feeds on mountain berries and young
plant shoots.
The chamois,
a shy mountain
antelope prized
for its soft skin, is
protected in the
national parks,
where hunting
is forbidden.
Roe deer are very common,
as their natural predators –
wolves and lynx – have now
died out. Their keen appetite
for tree saplings
causes problems for
foresters.
The Torri del Vaiolet Tre Cime di Lavaredo

is part of the beautiful or Drei Zinnen dominate
Catinaccio range, the valleys north of the
known for its colour. Lago di Misurina.
5 Belluno
* 35,800. V @ n Piazza Duomo
2 (334 281 32 22). ( Sat am.
Shops: closed Mon am (clothes) &
Wed pm (food). ∑ infodolomiti.it
Picturesque Belluno serves as a

bridge between the two very
different parts of the Veneto,
with the flat plains to the south
and the Dolomite peaks to the
north. Both are encapsulated in Façade and entrance to Palazzo dei Rettori in Belluno
the picture-postcard views to
be seen from the 12th-century Torre Civica, all that survives of Brigata Alpina Cadore (1,600
Porta Rugo at the southern end the Bishop’s Palace, and the city’s m/5,250 ft), which has superb
of Via Mezzaterra, the main street most elegant building, the views and a botanical garden
of the old town. Even more Renaissance Palazzo dei Rettori specializing in Alpine plants.
spectacular are the views from (1491), once home to Belluno’s
the campanile of the Venetian rulers. E Museo Civico
16th-century Duomo, The Museo Civico, Via Roma 34. Tel 0437 94 48 36.
which was designed housed in the Baroque Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–6:30pm
by Tullio Lombardo, splendour of the Palazzo Tue–Fri, 10am–6:30pm Sat & Sun. &
but rebuilt twice after Fulcis, is worth visiting 8 = ∑ mubel.comune.belluno.it
damage by earthquakes. for the paintings by
The nearby baptistry Bartolomeo Montagna
contains a font cover (1450–1523) and 6 Valzoldana
with the figure of John Sebastiano Ricci (1659–
@ from Longarone. n Viale Dolomiti
the Baptist carved by Exterior fresco, 1734). To the right of the
4, Loc Mareson (0437 78 91 45).
Andrea Brustolon Zoppe di Cadore museum is the town’s
(1662–1732), whose finest square, the Piazza The wooded Zoldo Valley is
elaborate furnishings decorate del Mercato, which features a popular destination for
Ca’ Rezzonico in Venice (see arcaded Renaissance palaces walking holidays. Its main
p130). Brustolon’s works also and a fountain built in 1410. resort town is Forno di Zoldo
grace the churches of San Pietro South of the town are the ski and the surrounding villages
(two altarpieces) and Santo resorts of the Alpe del Nevegal. are noted for their Tyrolean-
Stefano (crucifix and angels). It is worth taking the chair lift in style Alpine chalets and haylofts.
Close by is the 12th-century the summer to the Rifugio Examples built in wood on
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stone foundations can be seen

at Fornesighe, 2 km (1 mile)
northeast of Forno di Zoldo,
and on the slopes of Monte
Penna at Zoppe di Cadore,
8 km (5 miles) north.
If there is time, a circular tour
is a good way to explore the
area. Drive north on the S251,
via Zoldo Alto to Selva di
Cadore, then west via Colle
di Santa Lucia (a favourite
viewpoint for photographers).
From here take the S203 south
through the lakeside resort
of Alleghe. The route passes Selva di Cadore from Colle di Santa Lucia, northwest of Valzoldana
through wonderful scenery
with woodland, flower-filled repaid the debt by rebuilding 8 Vittorio Veneto
meadows and pretty mountain the town after the war. Thus
* 30,000. V @ n Viale della
hamlets which complement the the main street of the old town,
Vittoria 110 (0438 572 43). Shops:
splendour of the rocky crags. Via Mezzaterra, is lined with closed Tue (clothes), Wed pm (food).
The southernmost town of arcaded early 16th-century ( Mon. ∑ visittreviso.it
the area is Agordo, nestling in houses, most with steeply
the Cordevole Valley. From here, pitched roofs to keep snow Two separate towns, Ceneda
a spectacularly scenic route from settling. and Serravalle, were merged
follows the S347 northeast to Follow the steep main street and renamed Vittorio Veneto in
the Passo Duran (1,605 m/5,270 to the striking Piazza Maggiore, 1866 to honour the unification
ft), descending to Dont, close where it is possible to see the of Italy under King Vittorio
to the starting point of the remains of Feltre’s medieval Emanuele II. The town later gave
tour. Wayside shrines mark castle, the church of San Rocco its name to the last decisive battle
the route and it is worth and a fountain by Tullio fought in Italy in World War I.
stopping on the way down to Lombardo (1520). The Museo della Battaglia in the
visit village shops selling local On the eastern side of the Ceneda quarter commemorates
woodcarving. Take care when square is Via L Luzzo, a beautiful this. Serravalle is more
driving along this narrow and street lined with Renaissance picturesque, with many fine
winding road. palaces, one of which houses 15th-century palazzi and pretty
the Museo Civico. The museum arcaded streets. Franco Zeffirelli
displays a fresco by the local artist shot scenes for his film Romeo
Lorenzo Luzzo, who was known and Juliet in this town that sits at
as Il Morto da Feltre (The Dead the base of the rocky Meschio
Man of Feltre), a nickname given gorge. To the east, via Anzano,
to him by his contemporaries the S422 climbs up to the Bosco
because of the deathly pallor del Cansiglio, a wooded plateau.
of his skin.
Palazzo Guarnieri, one of the Renaissance E Museo della Battaglia
palaces in Feltre E Museo Civico Piazza Giovanni Paolo I. Tel 0438
Palazzo Villabruna, Via Luzzo 23. 576 95. Open 9:30am–12:30pm
7 Feltre Tel 0439 88 52 41. Open Jun–Sep: Tue– Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Sat
& Sun. & 8 book in advance.
Sun; Oct–May: Sat & Sun. Closed pub
* 19,600. V @ ( Tue & Fri am. hols. & ∑ comune.feltre.bl.it ∑ museobattaglia.it
Shops: closed Mon am (clothes),
Wed pm (food). ∑ infodolomiti.it
Feltre owes its venerable good

looks to the vengeful Holy
Roman Emperor Maximilian I.
He sacked the town twice, in
1509 and in 1510, at the
outbreak of the war against
Venice waged by the League
of Cambrai (see p48). Despite
the destruction of its buildings
and the murder of most of its
citizens, Feltre remained stoutly
loyal to Venice, and Venice Vittorio Veneto old town and river
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 228–235

Where to Eat and Drink 236–251
Shops and Markets 252–257
Entertainment in
the Veneto 258–261
Specialist Holidays and
Outdoor Activities 262–265
228  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Venice’s enduring appeal to romantics while the mountainous north of the
and art lovers means that it has an Veneto is a year-round holiday destination
astonishing number of hotels for its size, with accommodation of all types. These
many of them in former palazzi. On the include self-catering farmhouses, idyllically
mainland, hotels and pensioni abound, situated and well-equipped campsites and
frequently housed in magnificent old even simple refuges for walkers. Budget
buildings. Those in the smaller towns options in the cities include self-catering
of the region are often run by families flats, hostels and dormitory-style
who take great pride in their hospitality. accommodation. For more information
Lake Garda is a long-established resort on hotels in Venice and the Veneto, see
area with many hotels to choose from, the hotel listings (pp232–5).
Where to Look
Unlike most other cities, Venice
has hardly any “undesirable”
areas. Hotel prices are sometimes
higher in the immediate vicinity
of the Piazza San Marco, but in
such a compact city areas such
as Santa Croce or Cannaregio are
never far from places of interest.
Addresses in Venice can be
immensely confusing (see p282),
but a map reference for each
hotel on the main islands is given
in the listings. These Street Finder
maps can be found on pp290–97.
Remember, if you are travelling
by car, you will have to pay stiff The picturesque Villa Cipriani in Asolo (see p234)
parking charges at the Piazzale
Roma car park or one of its sat but Verona’s are fully booked hotels close out of season for
ellite operations for the duration for months ahead in the summer maintenance or staff holidays.
of your stay in Venice (see p280). opera season and during the All reopen for Carnival and raise
Many of the hotels in minor Vinitaly trade fair in early April, their prices accordingly.
inland towns of the Veneto cater so it is essential to plan ahead. July and August are the most
primarily to business travellers, Further north there is more expensive months at the resorts
but visitors planning to explore choice. The hotels are geared along Lake Garda, and the
the region will find lovely villa to holidaymakers, with lovely majority of hotels here close
and farm hotels dotted around gardens, swimming pools and over winter. In the Dolomites,
the countryside. Padua and sports facilities. Bear in mind however, both winter and mid
Verona have a number of hotels, that Italians as well as foreign summer are high seasons, with
tourists holiday in the lakes skiers and outdoor enthusiasts
and mountains, so it is always flocking to the area; hotels close
advisable to book in advance. inbetween those peak times.
Single room rates are higher
than individual rates for two
Hotel Prices people sharing a double room.
Venice is an expensive place By law all hotel rooms have
to stay and can hardly be said a card on the back of the door
to have a “low season” with the showing current rates. Booking
benefits of lower or negotiable on the Internet is the best bet
prices. It is difficult – but not to securing the cheapest rates.
impossible – to find a basic
double room for less than
€100. Occasionally you can find Hidden Extras
cheaper rooms from November Room prices include tax, but an
to February, when the weather additional tourist tax is levied on
The grandiose Moorish-style Hotel Excelsior is often superbly sunny but accommodation by all ltalian
on the Venice Lido (see p234) chilly. But remember that some local councils. In Venice it is
Pavement cafés lining the Riva del Vin by the Grand Canal in Venice
W H E R E TO S TAY  229
used purportedly as a accommodation during the

contribution to maintaining hottest months. Central heating
the city’s splendour. The amount is usually turned on at the
varies depending on the type beginning of November.
of lodging, number of people
and time of year, but usually
amounts to a couple of euros What to Expect
per person per day. Hotels are obliged by law to
If travelling on a budget, register guests with the police,
avoid hotels with inclusive so they will ask for your passport
breakfast (rarely good value when you arrive. They may need
for money). Tipping is a personal to keep it for a few hours, but Simple elegant room at Via Paradiso 32,
choice, though at least €1 for make sure you take it back; you a boutique hotel in Feltre (see p235)
room service and bellboys is sug will need it to change money.
gested, even if service is included Hotel staff tend to be friendly Booking and Paying
in the price of the room. Laundry and helpful, and the standard It is advisable to book at least
services are usually expensive, of cleanliness is very high. 2 months in advance in the high
as are drinks from the minibar Rooms without a bathroom season; some people book as far
and telephone calls made usually have a washbasin. as 6 months or a year ahead for
from the rooms. WiFi may Continental breakfast is usually hotels in Venice. Hotels above the
carry an additional charge. very light – a cup of coffee and €100 price bracket usually take
a pastry or bread rolls and jam, credit cards and generally accept
though hotels increasingly them for paying the deposit.
Hotel Gradings include a buffet. It is cheaper Under Italian law, a booking is
and Facilities to have breakfast at a bar. On valid as soon as a confirmation of
Italian hotels are classified by the other hand, mezza pensione, deposit has been received. As in
a rating system from one to five or half board, can be a good deal restaurants, visitors are required
stars. However, each province as it includes accommodation, by law to retain hotel receipts
sets its own level for grading, full dinner and breakfast. until they have left the country.
so standards for each category Italian towns can be noisy.
vary from one area to another. Light sleepers should ask for
Some hotels may not have a room that is away from the Disabled Travellers
a restaurant, but those that street, or come equipped with Facilities for the disabled are
do sometimes welcome non earplugs to deaden the sounds limited across Italy, and Venice
residents who wish to eat. of traffic and church bells. poses its own problems with
Old buildings will rarely have Checkout time is usually its many stepped bridges.
airconditioning but the thick between 10am and noon. If A list of tour operators that
stone walls provide good you linger longer, you will be specialize in holidays for the
insulation against the summer asked to pay for an extra day. disabled can be obtained from
heat. If you cannot tolerate high However, some hotels will hold ENIT, the Italian State Tourist
temperatures, it is well worth your luggage for a few hours Board (see p271). For more
choosing airconditioned after you have checked out. information, see p269.
A plush room in the five-star Hotel Metropole (see p233)

Travelling with Children

Children are welcome
everywhere (see p270), but
smaller hotels and guesthouses
can occasionally have limited
facilities. However, amenities
such as cots, high chairs and
a babysitting service will still
be available.
Many of the hotels around
the lakes and in the mountains
region offer a range of activities
for children, from a swimming
pool to riding lessons or skiing
with ski instructors.
Families with young children
should note that many Venetian
hotels are converted palaces,
so some rooms can be The elegant drawing room of La Residenza in Venice (see p233)
cramped. In addition, most
hotels do not have gardens. Converted palaces abound in or sumptuous opulence, a rural
An alternative for travellers with Venice, but further afield former idyll or a swish metropolitan
young children is to stay in the abbeys, farmhouses and taverns feel, all boutique hotels strive
Lido, with its long stretches are also open to paying guests. to offer a different experience
of sandy beaches and a range There are also numerous from the average hotel.
of hotels with gardens. attractive villa hotels in the
Veneto. The Veneto.eu website
lists places individually. Self-Catering
Hotels in Historic Self-catering flats in Venice
Buildings proper are easy to find. Many
Many of Venice’s hotels are Boutique Hotels local agents can arrange self-
housed in buildings of historical Venice has seen a rise in hotels catering stays ranging from
or artistic interest, for example offering a stay in luxurious or small apartments on the Lido
in Gothic palazzi. Architectural unusual settings. Most Venetian to a palatial home on the
highlights can range from Boutique hotels are small and Grand Canal. Another option
wonderful early Renaissance independent, where particular on the mainland might be
windows to 18th-century attention is given to style and a luxurious and spacious villa
frescoes, and antique bare design. Special focus is on with a swimming pool. Low-
beams or bricks. Even relatively details such as the quality of season prices for four people
humble B&Bs often hold fabrics and furnishings. Whether start at about €850 per week.
architectural treasures. it is stark contemporary design Luxrest has a tantalizing choice
of locations across the city, and
offers both short- and long-term
rentals. Other city agencies
include Immobiliare Rio Alto
and the well-established
Mitwohnzentrale Venice.
The appearance of Airbnb has
considerably widened choices
in the region, with a flat for
four in Venice starting at €700.
Budget Accommodation
Those looking for cheaper
accommodation can find one-
or two-star budget hotels
charging around €40 per person
per night. These are generally
small, modest, family-run places
that rarely offer breakfast and
usually have shared bathrooms.
Hostel or dormitory rooms
A room at the opulent Ca’ Sagredo in Cannaregio, Venice (see p234) are often available at convents
and religious institutions, such offices, which also list refuges.

as the Foresteria Valdese and The Touring Club Italiano
Santa Fosca. It is often possible annually publishes a list of
to book these rooms through campsites, the Campeggi e
the local tourist offices. The Villaggi Turistici in Italia.
main youth hostel in Venice is
the beautifully situated Ostello
Venezia on the Giudecca island, Floating Accommodation
a member of the Associazione For a city that is based on water,
Italiana Alberghi per la Venice has surprisingly little in
Gioventù (Italian Youth Hostel the way of buoyant lodgings.
Association), which has lists of The options that are available
youth hostels throughout the often represent good value for
country. It is essential to book money and offer a more
well ahead if you want to stay exciting alternative to a
in July or August. standard hotel room. Foresteria Valdese, a hostel at Calle Lunga
Comfortable, modern Santa Maria Formosa, Castello
watercraft are available for
Campsites and hire near the Lido Casino, five its individual setting, be that of
Mountain Refuges minutes from San Marco. They magical Venice, the fascinating
There are good campsites provide rooms and kitchen regions in the Veneto Plain,
throughout the region, facilities for up to six passengers, beautiful Lake Garda or the
concentrated on the mainland with prices starting at €1,800 mountainous Dolomites.
to the north of Venice, on the a week. Venice Houseboats has Establishments range from
shores of Lake Garda and in the several kinds of boats for weekly simple farmhouses to rustic
northern mountains. Among rentals, some requiring little Alpine chalets and from family-
the best around the lagoon, to no navigation experience. run B&Bs to superbly indulgent
close to Venice, are Marina di luxury palaces.
Venezia and San Nicolò. Throughout the listings
Handy high-altitude refuges Recommended Hotels certain hotels have been
offer packages for walkers and The hotels listed on pages marked as DK Choice. These
climbers in the Dolomites 232–5 cover the best B&B, offer a particularly special
during the summer months. boutique, historic, family and experience – for their beautiful
Most are owned by the Club luxury accommdation types in surroundings, historic setting,
Alpino Italiano and offer Venice and the Veneto. They are romantic atmosphere, artistic
dormitory accommodation as listed by price within each area. decor, excellent service,
well as meals and drinks. A list of Each has earned a good outstanding rooms, superb spa
campsites can be obtained from reputation for hospitality and or wellness facilities, spectacular
ENIT (see p271) or local tourist charm and is representative of views or a combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Hotels in Mitwohnzentrale Ostello Venezia Marina di Venezia
Historic Buildings Venice Fondamenta delle Zitelle, Via Montello 6, Punta
Calle Vitturi, San Marco Giudecca 86. Sabbioni.
∑ veneto.eu 2923. Map 6 E3. Tel 041 530 25 11.
Map 7 B5.
Tel 041 523 16 72. ∑ marinadivenezia.it
Self-Catering Tel 041 877 82 88.
∑ mwz-online.com
∑ ostellovenezia.it San Nicolò
Luxrest Budget Via dei Sanmicheli 14, Lido.
Santa Fosca
Ponte del Pistor, Accommodation Tel 041 526 74 15.
Fmta Diedo, Cannaregio ∑ campingsannicolo.
Castello 5990.
Map 7 B1. Associazione Italiana 2372. Map 2 F3. com
Tel 377 708 60 73. Alberghi per la Tel 041 71 57 75.
Gioventù ∑ ostellosantafosca.it
Touring Club Italiano
∑ luxrest-venice.com ∑ touringclub.it
Via Nicotera 1, 00195
Immobiliare Rome. Tel 06 487 11 52. Campsites and
Rio Alto Floating
∑ aighostels.com Mountain Refuges Accommodation
Via Garibaldi, Foresteria Valdese
Castello 1625. Club Alpino Italiano Venice Houseboats
Calle Lunga Santa Maria
Map 6 E2. Formosa, Castello 5170. Via Petrella 19, Via Tiro 2, Lido di Venezia.
Tel 041 241 31 03. Map 7 C1. 20124 Milan. Tel 346 549 99 12.
∑ immobiliare Tel 041 528 67 97. Tel 02 205 72 31. ∑ venicehouse
rioalto.com ∑ foresteriavenezia.it ∑ cai.it boats.com
Where to Stay
Locanda Fiorita €€ Price Guide
Venice Boutique Map 6 F2 Prices are based on one night's stay in
Campiello Novo, San Marco 3457/a, high season for a standard double room,
San Marco 30124 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Locanda ai Bareteri € Tel 041 523 47 54 € up to €150
B&B Map 7 B1 ∑ locandafiorita.com €€ €150–€300
€€€ over €300
Calle di Mezzo 4966, 30124 The bright, airy rooms at this
Tel 041 523 22 33 delightful hotel have stylish 18th-
∑ bareteri.it century furniture. Palazzina G €€€
Located close to the main sights Luxury Map 6 F3
this quiet and friendly B&B has Novecento €€ Calle Grassi 3247, 30124
spacious, simply furnished rooms. Boutique Map 6 F3 Tel 041 528 46 44
Calle del Dose 2683–4, 30124 ∑ palazzinag.com
Antico Panada €€ Tel 041 241 37 65 At this stylish establishment,
Historic Map 7 A2 ∑ novecento.biz maximum comfort is combined
Calle Specchieri 646, 30124 A relaxing atmosphere and rooms with great Grand Canal views and
Tel 041 520 90 88 with Oriental-style furnishing are contemporary design furnishings.
∑ hotelpanada.it offered at this hotel.
This converted 17th-century
mansion with a cosy bar is Rialto €€ San Polo
decorated with antique mirrors. Family Map 7 A1 Al Campaniel €
A breakfast buffet is provided. Riva di Ferro 5149, 30124 B&B Map 6 E2
Tel 041 520 91 66 Calle del Campaniel 2889, 30125
La Fenice & Des Artistes €€ ∑ rialtohotel.com Tel 041 275 07 49
Historic Map 7 A2 The Rialto, situated next to the ∑ alcampaniel.com
Campiello Fenice 1936, 30124 Rialto Bridge, has large family This family guesthouse, with cosy
Tel 041 523 23 33 rooms with fantastic views. rooms, is run by a Spanish-Italian
∑ fenicehotels.com couple. Located on a quiet street.
Antiques and period-style
furniture characterize this pretty DK Choice Locanda Sturion €€
hotel in a superb central location. Bauer il Palazzo €€€ Historic Map 7 A1
Luxury Map 7 A3 Calle del Sturion 679, 30125
Hotel Flora €€ Campo San Moisè 1459, 30124 Tel 041 523 62 43
Boutique Map 7 A3 Tel 041 520 70 22 ∑ locandasturion.com
Via XXII Marzo–Calle Bergaschi ∑ ilpalazzovenezia.com Dating back to the 13th century,
2283/a, 30124 Enjoy breathtaking views over this charming hotel has rooms
Tel 041 520 58 44 the Grand Canal from this 18th- decorated with red damasks and
∑ hotelflora.it century palace, which features Venetian furniture.
This small but fully equipped lavishly furnished rooms and
hotel is in the heart of the city’s suites with Murano glass chan-
upmarket shopping district. deliers. There is a rooftop terrace DK Choice
bar, a restaurant and a spa. Oltre il Giardino €€
Hotel Santo Stefano €€ Boutique Map 6 E1
Historic Map 6 F3 Fondamenta San Stin 2542, 30125
Campo Santo Stefano 2957, 30124 Luna Hotel Baglioni €€€ Tel 041 275 00 15
Tel 041 520 01 66 Luxury Map 7 B3 ∑ oltreilgiardino-venezia.com
∑ hotelsantostefanovenezia.com Calle Larga dell'Ascension 1243, 30124 This attractive house, with six
Housed in a 15th-century Tel 041 528 98 40 rooms that overlook the
watchtower, this charming ∑ baglionihotels.com garden, offers tranquillity away
hotel in a bustling square has The spacious Luna hotel has from the bustle of the city.
elegant rooms. sumptuous suites and a breakfast Enjoy a drink in the garden or
room decorated with frescoes. relish the owner’s home-made
cakes and pies for breakfast.
Monaco and Grand Canal €€€
Historic Map 7 B3
Calle Vallaresso 1332, 30124
Tel 041 520 02 11 DK Choice
∑ hotelmonaco.it La Villeggiatura €€
Formally a palace theatre, this B&B Map 2 F5
hotel is near the Grand Canal Calle dei Botteri 1569 , 30125
and has a fine dining restaurant. Tel 041 524 46 73
∑ lavilleggiatura.it
Palace Bonvecchiati €€€ Run by a Venetian lady, this
Luxury Map 7 B2 home-away-from-home is a
Calle dei Fabbri 4680, 30124 charming place to come back to
Tel 041 296 31 11 after a day’s sightseeing. It has
∑ palacebonvecchiati.it six light-filled, individually styled
This friendly hotel has bright rooms rooms with king-size beds and
One of the six rooms at La Villeggiatura, with modern decor, and a top- elegant modern bathrooms.
a B&B of understated elegance floor gym with panoramic views.
Castello Hotel Metropole €€€

Bed & Breakfast San Marco € Luxury Map 8 E2
B&B Map 8 D1 Riva degli Schiavoni 4149, 30122
Fondamenta San Giorgio dei Tel 041 520 50 44
Schiavoni 3385L, 30122 ∑ hotelmetropole.com
Tel 041 522 75 89 This hotel offers magnificent
∑ realvenice.it rooms with antiques. Its
This cosy B&B has a lovely view of restaurant is famous (see p244)
the city’s canals. All rooms have and the garden is an oasis of
kitchen facilities. green in the heart of the city.
Casa per Ferie La Pietà € Londra Palace €€€

Family Map 8 D2 Luxury Map 8 D2
Calle della Pietà 3701, 30122 Riva degli Schiavoni 4171, 30122
Tel 041 244 36 39 Tel 041 520 05 33
The warm decor of the opulent ∑ bedandvenice.it ∑ londrapalace.com
Hotel Metropole Featuring large rooms with Elegant rooms with lagoon views
shared bathrooms, this hotel also are offered at the Londra Palace.
Palazzo Barbarigo €€€ boasts breakfast rooms that have Head to the bar for a cocktail or
Luxury Map 6 E1 panoramic views of the city. an espresso. Excellent service.
Calle Corner 2765, 30125
Tel 041 74 01 72 Foresteria Valdese €
∑ palazzobarbarigo.it Family Map 7 C1 Dorsoduro
Contemporary design, Art Deco Calle Lunga Santa Maria Avogaria €€
furnishings and four-poster beds Formosa 5170, 30122 B&B Map 5 C3
feature at this stylish hotel. Tel 041 528 67 97 Fondamenta dell’ Avogaria 1629,
∑ foresteriavenezia.it 30123
This welcoming guesthouse in Tel 041 296 04 91
Santa Croce an 18th-century palace is run ∑ avogaria.com
Bed & Breakfast “al Gallion” € by the Waldensian and Methodist Avogaria has five lavishly furnished
B&B Map 2 D5 church. Choose between cosy rooms with luxurious bathrooms.
Calle Gallion 1126, 30135 rooms with en suites or Three rooms have their own
Tel 041 524 47 43 dormitory accommodation. private courtyard. Closed Jan.
∑ algallion.com
A former Gothic palace converted Locanda La Corte €€ Locanda Ca’ Zose €€
into a guesthouse, this place is Historic Map 3 C5 B&B Map 6 F4
located in a quiet neighbourhood Calle Bressana 6317, 30122 Calle del Bastion 193B, 30123
and has lovely rooms. Tel 041 241 13 00 Tel 041 522 66 35
∑ locandalacorte.it ∑ hotelcazose.com
Ai Due Fanali €€ Housed in a converted 16th- This friendly, small hotel has
Historic Map 2 D5 century palace, with a lovely tastefully furnished rooms, many
Campo San Simeon Grande 946, 30135 courtyard, the delightful rooms with charming canal views.
Tel 041 71 84 90 at this hotel feature the original
∑ aiduefanali.com floors and wooden beams. Locanda San Barnaba €€
This converted monastery offers Family Map 6 D3
a peaceful atmosphere. Some La Residenza €€ Calle del Traghetto 2785–6, 30123
rooms have old timber rafters. Historic Map 8 E2 Tel 041 241 12 33
Campo Bandiera e Moro 3608, 30122 ∑ locanda-sanbarnaba.com
Tel 041 528 53 15 A converted palace with a
DK Choice ∑ venicelaresidenza.com spacious foyer and a pretty garden,
Hotel Al Sole €€ La Residenza is a Gothic-style pal- this hotel offers spotless rooms
Historic Map 5 C1 ace. The comfortable rooms have including two with disabled access.
Fondamenta Minotta 134–136, frescoes, and some overlook the
30135 campo or the church of La Pietà. Ca’ Maria Adele €€€
Tel 041 244 03 28 Luxury Map 7 A4
∑ alsolehotels.com Ai Reali €€€ Rio Terà Catecumeni 111, 30123
Housed in Palazzo Marcello, this Historic Map 7 B1 Tel 041 520 30 78
15th-century palace, with a Campo della Fava 5527, 30122 ∑ camariaadele.it
beautiful façade, offers well- Tel 041 241 02 53 A lavish hotel with exotic decor
appointed rooms with period ∑ hotelaireali.com and a romantic atmosphere.
furniture. Enjoy the rich breakfast This sumptuous palace has beauti- The rooms offer great views of the
spread served in a patio garden. ful furnishings. The wellness facili- adjacent Santa Maria della Salute
ties are housed in the attic rooms. church and the Grand Canal.
Hotel Falier €€ Aqua Palace €€€ Ca’ Pisani €€€

Historic Map 5 C1 Luxury Map 7 B1 Boutique Map 6 E4
Salizzada San Pantalon 130, 30135 Calle della Malvasia 5492, 30122 Rio Terrà Foscarini 979/a, 30123
Tel 041 71 08 82 Tel 041 296 04 42 Tel 041 240 14 11
∑ hotelfalier.com ∑ aquapalace.it ∑ capisanihotel.it
Small, but well-equipped rooms This boutique palace hotel is Located in a quiet street, Ca’ Pisani
are provided at this hotel. There is situated on a quiet canal. The provides sleek modern decor and
also a pretty garden with wisteria rooms are large and modern, comfort. There is also a Turkish
and a rooftop terrace. and some boast canal views. bath and a roof terrace.
For more information on types of hotels see pp228–31
Charming House DD724 €€€ The Lagoon Islands

Boutique Map 6 F4 Ca’ del Borgo € DK Choice
Ramo da Mula 724, 30123 Historic Hotel Excelsior €€€
Tel 041 277 02 62 Piazza delle Erbe 8, Malamocco, Luxury
∑ thecharminghouse.com 30126 Lungomare Marconi 41, Lido, 30126
Located in Venice’s art district, the Tel 041 77 07 49 Tel 041 526 02 01
elegant rooms are decorated with ∑ cadelborgo.com ∑ hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com
works by current Italian artists. Located in an old fishing village, This flamboyant Moorish-style
this villa has a garden for relaxing beachfront hotel, constructed
in summer and an open fireplace in the early 1900s, has a swim-
DK Choice in winter. Closed Nov–Mar. ming pool and cabanas in the
Pensione Accademia shape of Arab tents. It is popular
Villa Maravegie €€€ Il Lato Azzurro € with stars during the Film
Historic Map 6 E3 Family Festival. Closed Nov–mid-Mar.
Fondamenta Bollani 1058, 30123 Via Forti 13, Sant'Erasmo, 30141
Tel 041 521 01 88 Tel 041 523 06 42
∑ pensioneaccademia.it ∑ latoazzurro.it
Once the Russian embassy, this This place offers simple
beautiful 17th-century villa is a country-style accommodation, The Veneto Plain
tranquil haven away from the a Mediterranean restaurant
bustle of the city. Rooms are and a lovely garden. Bicycles ASOLO: Albergo Al Sole €€
decorated in Venetian style and are available for hire. Boutique
have views over the canal or the Via Collegio 33, 31011
garden. Alfresco buffet breakfast. Locanda Cipriani €€ Tel 042 395 13 32
Historic ∑ albergoalsoleasolo.com
Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello, Old-fashioned luxury and contem-
30142 porary amenities are combined at
Cannaregio Tel 041 73 01 50 this hotel. Rooms are spacious and
Al Saor € ∑ locandacipriani.com well-furnished. There is a lovely
B&B Map 3 A4 Housed in an old-style inn, terrace for breakfast. Closed Jan.
Calle Zotti 3904/a, 30125 this hotel has five rooms that
Tel 041 296 06 54 feature high-vaulted ceilings ASOLO: Villa Cipriani €€
∑ alsaor.com and Venetian mosaics in the Luxury
This friendly guesthouse is run by bathrooms. Closed Jan–mid-Feb. Via Canova 298, 31011
a local family. Some rooms have Tel 042 352 34 11
their own kitchen. Villa Mabapa €€ ∑ villacipriani.it
Boutique This picturesque 16th-century villa
Palazzo Abadessa €€ Riviera San Nicolò 16, Lido, has an infinity pool with great
Historic Map 3 A4 30126 views of the countryside.
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 Tel 041 526 05 90
Tel 041 241 37 84 ∑ villamabapa.com BASSANO DEL GRAPPA:
∑ abadessa.com This 1930s villa has been Ca’ Sette €
Set in a 16th-century palace with converted into a guesthouse, Historic
frescoed ceilings, antique furniture, with tastefully decorated rooms. Via Cunizza da Romano 4, 36061
chandeliers, plus a splendid private The restaurant serves meals Tel 042 438 33 50
garden. Closed 1-2 weeks Jan. in the lush garden. Closed ∑ ca-sette.it
Nov–mid-Mar. Set in a converted 1700s villa with
Carnival Palace €€€ a formal garden, this stylish hotel
Boutique Map 1 C3 Bauer Palladio Hotel €€€ has individually decorated rooms.
Fondamenta di Cannaregio 929, Luxury Map 7 5B
30121 Fondamenta delle Zitelle, CHIOGGIA: Grande Italia €
Tel 041 244 03 20 Giudecca 33, 30133 Historic
∑ carnivalpalace.com Tel 041 520 70 22 Rione S Andrea 597, 30015
Many of the rooms at the Carnival ∑ palladiohotelspa.com Tel 041 40 05 15
Palace overlook the canals. Break- A peaceful hotel in an old ∑ hotelgrandeitalia.com
fast is served in a lovely garden. monastery, boasting beautiful The elegant rooms in this hotel
rooms, four gardens and a overlook the lagoon and canals.
luxurious spa. Open Mar–Nov. There is also an attic gym.
DK Choice
Ca’ Sagredo €€€
Historic Map 3 A5
Campo Santa Sofia 4198, 30121
Tel 041 241 31 11
∑ casagredohotel.com
A grandiose 15th-century palace
houses this luxurious hotel. The
individually decorated rooms are
spacious and have period fur-
nishings. Paintings by 17th- and
18th-century Venetian artists and
frescoes adorn the walls. There is
a magnificent marble stairway.
Hotel Excelsior pool by night
For key to price guide see p232
CONEGLIANO: Il Faè € bustling Piazza delle Erbe. There

B&B is a good buffet breakfast.
Via Faè 1, San Pietro di Feletto, 31020
Tel 043 878 71 17 VERONA: Il Torcolo €€
∑ ilfae.com B&B
This family-run B&B is in a con- Vicolo Listone 3, 37121
verted farmhouse. Cooking classes Tel 045 800 75 12
are offered. Closed Nov–Apr. ∑ hoteltorcolo.it
Housed in a former tavern, this
is now a popular family-run hotel
DK Choice with pretty rooms and a breakfast
FOLLINA: Villa Abbazia €€ terrace. Closed for Christmas and
Luxury 2 weeks Jan.
Piazza IV Novembre 3, 31051
Tel 043 897 12 77 Rustic chic bathroom at Via Paradiso 32,
∑ hotelabbazia.it where the modern blends with the old
This delightful 17th-century villa The Dolomites
with a pretty garden has been
tastefully restored. The spacious Verona and BELLUNO: Albergo delle Alpi €
rooms are individually decorated
in English country-house style
Lake Garda Family
Via Jacopo Tasso 13, 32100
and have hydromassage baths. GARDA: Locanda San Vigilio €€ Tel 043 794 05 45
Closed early Jan–Feb Luxury ∑ dellealpi.it
Punta San Vigilio, 37016 This comfortable hotel has simple
Tel 045 725 66 88 rooms and modern amenities.
MONTEGROTTO TERME: ∑ locanda-sanvigilio.it Good on-site restaurant.
Hotel Augustus €€ In a lakeside villa, this hotel
Family provides great service and comfort.
Viale Stazione 150, 35036 Private beach. Closed mid-Nov–Mar. DK Choice
Tel 049 79 32 00 CORTINA: Grand Hotel
∑ hotelaugustus.com MALCESINE: Hotel Castello €€ Savoia €€€
Modern and comfortable, it has Boutique Luxury
spa facilities and hot thermal Via Paina 21, 37018 Via Roma 62, 32043
springs. Closed mid-Jan–mid-Feb. Tel 045 740 02 33 Tel 043 63 201
∑ h-c.it ∑ grandhotelsavoiacortina.it
PADUA: Al Santo € Situated at the foot of Scaligeri This splendid hotel, dating to
Family Castle, this pleasant hotel offers the early 1900s, stands in the
Via del Santo 147, 35139 beach facilities. Closed Nov–Mar. centre of the bustling Alpine
Tel 049 875 21 31 resort town. Rooms have
∑ alsanto.it SIRMIONE: Villa Paradiso € contemporary decor with
In a great location for exploring B&B modern comforts. It offers a
the city, this hotel has charming Via Arici 7, 25019 pool, relaxing massages and
rooms. Closed 8 Jan–end Jan. Tel 030 91 61 49 Turkish baths. Closed Apr–Jun.
∑ villaparadisosirmione.it
TREVISO: Relais Monaco € Rustic rooms, most of which have
Historic views of Lake Garda, are offered FELTRE: Via Paradiso 32 €€
Via Postumia 63, Ponzano Veneto, at this hotel. There is a peaceful Boutique
31050 private garden. Closed Nov–Mar. Via Paradiso 32, 32032
Tel 042 296 41 Tel 348 870 96 22
∑ relaismonaco.it ∑ viaparadiso32.it
This beautifully converted villa DK Choice The tastefully restored rooms
with elegant decor lies in spacious TORRI DEL BENACO: at this delightful hotel have
parkland. Spa and pool facilities. Hotel Gardesana €€ marble fittings.
Historic
VICENZA: Due Mori € Piazza Calderini 5, 37010 SANTA FOSCA: Ca’ del Bosco €
Family Tel 045 722 54 11 Family
Contr. Do Rode 24–26, 36100 ∑ gardesana.eu Via Monte Cernera 10, 32020
Tel 044 432 18 86 This charming 15th-century for- Tel 043 752 12 58
∑ www.hotelduemori.com mer harbour master's house ∑ hotelcadelbosco.it
Centrally located, this hotel has overlooking Lake Garda has been Located in a pretty Alpine village,
spacious rooms with antique converted into a lovely hotel. The this family-run guesthouse offers
timber furnishings. Disabled access rooms are furnished in 19th-cen- rooms with mountain views.
in two rooms. Closed 1–15 Aug. tury Venetian style. Live music in Closed Oct–Nov and Apr–May.
summer. Closed Nov–Mar.
VITTORIO VENETO: Hotel ZOLDO ALTO: Hotel Maè €
Ristorante Le Macine € Family
Historic VERONA: Hotel Aurora €€ Via Masarei 4, 32010
Via Boni 34, 31029 Historic Tel 043 778 87 07
Tel 043 894 02 91 Piazza delle Erbe 2, 37121 ∑ residence-panorama.net
∑ hotelristorantelemacine.it Tel 045 59 47 17 An hour’s drive north of Belluno,
This hotel is housed in an ancient ∑ hotelaurora.biz this pleasant hotel, with a garden
building in the city centre and At the Aurora the rooms (some and playground, has basic rooms
provides contemporary rooms. with balconies) overlook the and self-catering apartments.
For more information on types of hotels see pp228–31
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Restaurants in Venice and the Veneto dinner earlier to cater for the many foreign
serve predominantly Italian food from visitors. Restaurants may be closed for a
the region, with a special emphasis on week or so for staff holidays, but these
fish in Venice. Wherever visitors go, they vary from year to year. Ask your hotel to
will find the cooking simple, with dishes first call and confirm that the restaurant
that make full use of traditional, locally is open to avoid disappointment. Finding
grown ingredients. restaurants can be confusing in Venice,
Most Venetians eat pranzo (lunch) at so use the map references provided. The
around 12:30pm and cena (dinner) from restaurants listed in the following pages are
8pm, though restaurants start serving some of the best across all price ranges.
but can be a good deal if service

and cover charge are included.
A menu gastronomico or menu
degustazione is a fixed-price
menu consisting of six or seven
courses, which allows you to
sample the full range of the
chef’s offerings.
How Much to Pay

Transport charges can add as
much as 30 per cent to the price
of basic commodities coming
into Venice. In cheaper places
Lunching alfresco at a pizzeria in Venice and pizzerie, a two-course meal
with half a litre of wine will cost
Types of Restaurants 7:30pm to 10:30pm for dinner. around €15. Three-course meals
Eating places in Italy have a Many restaurants close one or average about €35 and could
variety of names. For example, two days a week. Closing days cost up to €100 or more in up-
a ristorante is smarter and more for individual restaurants are market restaurants. In the Veneto,
expensive than a trattoria. A given in the listings. prices are lower, except for stylish
birreria and a spaghetteria are restaurants in Verona and along
more downmarket eating places Lake Garda during the summer.
selling beer, pasta and snacks. Fixed-Price Menus Nearly all restaurants apply a
There are also a large number of Restaurants may have a menu cover charge (pane e coperto) of
fast-food joints and tavola calda turistico pinned up in the street. €1–4. Many also add a 10 per cent
(cafeteria-style) establishments, Such menus offer little oppor- service charge (servizio) to the bill
which have no cover or service tunity to taste the local cuisine, (il conto), so always establish if
charge. A good pizzeria will use this is their policy. In case of no
wood-fired ovens and normally service charge, it is acceptable
be open only in the evenings. to add 10 to 15 per cent to the
An enoteca is a wine bar that total – many Italians simply
often serves meals too, while an round up the bill. Restaurants
osteria is a typical neighbourhood are obliged by law to give a
bar that often does bar snacks. proper receipt (una ricevuta
Those not looking for a full meal fiscale). The preferred form of
at lunchtime can stop at a bar or payment is cash, but many will
café for a light snack. For more accept payment by major credit
on bars and cafés, see pp236–250. cards. Check which cards are
accepted when booking.
Opening Times and
Closing Days Making Reservations
Opening times are virtually the Whatever the price range,
same throughout Venice and Venice’s best restaurants are
the Veneto – from noon to A blackboard menu displayed in front always busy, so it is best to
2:30pm for lunch, and from of a restaurant reserve a table. If restaurants
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  237
do not accept bookings, try to provision for wheelchair users,

arrive early to avoid queuing. though a word when booking
should ensure a conveniently
situated table and assistance,
Dress Code if required, on arrival.
Italians like to dress up in
general, and dining out is no
exception. Smart casual clothes Eating on a Budget
are the general rule for both Eating out all the time can
men and women. become very expensive,
especially in Venice, so a
cheaper option is to make your
Reading the Menu own picnic. Supermarkets stock
Both lunch and dinner in a a range of fresh salads, local
restaurant usually start with cheeses and tasty cold cuts.
an antipasto, or hors d’oeuvres Rosticceria San Bartolomeo in San Marco, The Coop chain has several
(seafood, olives, beef carpaccio, Venice (see p242) outlets in Venice and the
ham or salami), followed by the Veneto, including a flagship
primo (soup, rice or pasta). The (omelette), salad and a selection store at Piazzale Roma. Billa has
main course, or secondo, will be of cheese. Coeliacs are well stores throughout the Veneto.
fish or meat, either served alone catered for and should ask Alternatively, many local shops
or accompanied by contorni for senza glutine (gluten-free). will make large rolls with your
(vegetables) or insalata (salad). Most restaurants, however, choice of fillings.
These are rarely included in the do not offer much choices for There are plenty of places to
price of the main course. To vegans, although many ice- stop and enjoy an alfresco meal.
finish, there will probably be cream parlours have soya and All the towns in the Veneto
a choice of frutta (fruit), a non-dairy options. have picturesque squares and
dolce (pudding) or formaggio quiet parks. In Venice, the park
(cheese). Coffee is ordered and at Sant’Elena is a shady spot
served right at the end of the Choice of Wine even in summer, but picnicking
meal, often with a digestivo. House wines are usually local in Piazza San Marco (see pp78–9)
Italians drink espresso – never (see pp240–41). Cheaper will invite a fine.
a cappuccino other than at restaurants will have a limited
breakfast. In some restaurants, wine list, but at the top of the
the menu may be chalked up or scale there should be a wide Recommended
the waiter may simply recite the range of Italian wines and a Restaurants
day’s special dishes at the table. selection of foreign vintages. The restaurants listed on
pages 242–9 have all earned
a noteworthy reputation.
Vegetarian Food Children The listings cover a variety
Vegetarians always find a choice Children are welcome in of eateries, from the simple
of seasonal vegetables and pulses restaurants, particularly in simple, pizzeria, cafeteria-style tavola
in Italian eateries. Most menus family-run establishments. calda and family-run trattoria
include a variety of meatless Smart restaurants may be less to the smarter ristorante,
dishes since many antipasti welcoming, especially in the enoteca and neighbourhood
(starters), soups and pasta sauces evenings. Facilities such as osteria. The cuisine ranges
are vegetable based. Most places highchairs are not commonly from regional and traditional
will be happy to serve a frittata provided. Most restaurants will specialities to modern Italian
prepare a half-portion (mezza fare, creative fusion dishes
porzione) if requested, and and Mediterranean options.
some charge less for these The venues are listed by price
smaller helpings. category within each area of
Venice or region of the Veneto.
Throughout the listings
Smoking certain restaurants have been
Smoking in enclosed public highlighted as DK Choice.
spaces, including restaurants, These offer at least one
is banned across Italy. Outdoor particularly special quality,
terraces are exempt. such as exceptional cuisine,
a romantic setting, beautiful
surroundings, a charming
Wheelchair Access ambience, a historic location,
Typical seafood antipasto consisting There are few restaurants in excellent value, or a
of small crabs Venice that offer any special combination of these.
The Flavours of Venice and the Veneto

The cuisine of Venice and the Veneto reflects the region’s varied landscape,
from cattle-grazing and agricultural land to mountains and coastline. The
most important sources of ingredients, however, are the waters – both
inland and coastal – that yield a constant supply of fish and seafood. In
general, the cooking is light, fresh and delicately flavoured, without heavy
sauces. Fish may be simply grilled or poached with herbs, while carpaccio
of raw beef is sliced to transparent thinness. The vibrant colours of
dishes recall canvases by Tintoretto or Titian: bright yellow saffron or
polenta, emerald green fresh peas, dark red radicchio and the blue-
black stain of cuttlefish ink in riso nero risotto. Saffron
Venice was the prosperous with gold leaf. A few traces

gateway to the East, imported of these exotic influences still
spices, pepper, raisins, pine nuts appear in classic Venetian
and sugar made their way into cooking, such as Asian-style
the diet. Recipes from the period sweet and sour combinations
cite ingredients such as ginger, and the use of spices as well as
nutmeg, saffron, cloves, herbs. Baccalà (dried salted cod)
cinnamon and coriander. The originally brought from the Baltic
city’s noble families liked their area, is still very popular, often
food to be appealing to the eye cooked with milk or wine and
as well as the palate, and so they garlic or onion. Superb
introduced fine, locally made vegetables are grown in market
glassware to enhance the table. gardens on the islands of the
They served extravagant fare lagoon, not least the delicious
Produce from the Veneto is loaded onto such as peacock, roasted whole purple artichokes (castraure)
the Venetian canalside with spices and then garnished from Sant’ Erasmo.
Venetian Food Caper berries Marinated white anchovies
Food in Venice is almost always Olives wrapped in Seafood cocktail
Italian, and many restaurants anchovies
serve local specialities. There are
very few ethnic eating places
despite the city’s long history
as a trading port and home to
foreign settlers. Foodstuffs have
always been traded, starting
with the local salt and fish. In the
15th and 16th centuries, when Selection of Venetian antipasti, the perfect appetizer
Regional Dishes and Specialities

Antipasto di frutti di mare (a mixed seafood appetizer) is a special
favourite in Venice, where the ingredients come fresh from the
Adriatic. From lovely Lake Garda, anguilla del pescatore (stewed
eel), lavarelli al vino bianco (lake fish in white wine) and
carpione (a type of lake trout) are all fishy delights.
Another fish speciality of the region is baccalà alla
veneziana, made with dried salt cod. Pork and
salamis feature throughout the area, but closer
to Friuli, goose is often used as an alternative
to pork, with succulent cured meat offerings
Asparagus such as salame d’oca (goose salami). Game
is also found on the menu, together with Sarde in Saor is a Venetian
sauerkraut and filling goulash, while desserts often have an Austrian speciality of fried sardines in a
flavour, too, such as Apfelstrudel. But the region is also proud of sweet and sour onion marinade,
claiming as its own the voluptuous, classic Italian dessert tiramisù. with pine nuts.
Lamon, near Belluno. Fish

comes from the inland rivers
and Lake Garda, while farms
produce chicken, duck, turkey
and goose. Towards the
mountains there are pigs
for cured hams, salami
and sausages like the pork
sopressa, as well as veal, beef
and dairy cattle, and wild game
in season. An Austrian legacy
is tasted in the dumplings
and apple strudels of
the Dolomites.
Enjoying an apéritif in the sunshine of St Mark’s Square in Venice VENETIAN FISH DISHES
Food of the Veneto accompanies a main course The catch from the region’s
The region’s staples have and can appear as a thick waters includes sardines,
mussels, clams, sea snails, squid,
long been polenta and rice, purée or be allowed to set into
cuttlefish, eel, prawns, crab and
although pasta is also popular. in a more solid form, when it
lobster. These are served as
Polenta, made from ground can be cut into slices and
antipasti, made into soups
maize (corn) that was originally grilled. The Veneto is one (brodo di pesce), and cooked in
imported from America in the of Italy’s main rice-growing risottos or with pasta, such as
16th century, was always a regions. Rice was introduced the popular spaghetti alle
peasant food. Today, it often from Spain by the Arabs, and vongole (with clams). Regional
the vialone nano variety grown specialities include:
around Verona is the favourite Schie alla Polenta
for risotto, giving a superbly Minuscule lagoon prawns,
creamy finish when cooked shelled and served up with
in stock with meat, fish or creamy corn polenta.
vegetables in season. A huge
Sarde in Saor Sardines in
range of vegetables is grown in
a sweet and sour sauce.
the Veneto. Bassano di Grappa
is noted for its asparagus, and Moleche frite Soft-shelled
Treviso for a long variety of crabs from the lagoon, coated
radicchio that is eaten raw, with beaten egg and fried.
baked (radicchio in forno), Seppie alla Veneziana
grilled or in risotto. Soups are Cuttlefish cooked in their own ink.
made from vegetables and Peoci Saltai Mussels
beans, notably pasta e fagiola – steamed with white wine,
Fishing on the tranquil waters of a thick brown soup of highly garlic and parsley.
Lake Garda prized borlotti beans from
Risotto di Pesce is a mix of rice Fegato alla Venezia is calf’s Tiramisù (the name means
with fish and prawns in a soft, liver served on a bed of sautéed “pick me up”) is rich pudding
moist risotto, usually made for a onions. Grilled polenta is a good of mascarpone, sponge fingers,
minimum of two in restaurants. side dish. coffee and Marsala.
What to Drink in Venice and the Veneto

Italy has been making wine for over 3,000 years, and production
in the Veneto reflects this, with the largest output in Italy of
superior wines. The area produces an abundance of different
wines, which include not only well-known names such as Soave,
Valpolicella and Bardolino, but many others which are also
excellent value for money. Although Italians tend to drink lighter
wines with their food, the area is also noted for some excellent
strong wines. Italy’s famous digestivo, grappa, originated in this
corner of the country, and meals are often preceded by an
aperitivo or a glass of sparkling local Prosecco. Grapes drying in Valpolicella
Red Wine
Red wines in the Veneto are produced mainly near
Bardolino and Valpolicella between Verona and Lake
Garda (see pp214–15). Made predominantly from the
Corvina grape, they are usually light and fruity, but quality
can vary so, it is worth looking for reliable names.
Valpolicella comes in several forms. In addition
to the normal easy-drinking wine, it is available as Bardolino wine is
a ripasso, boosted in colour and strength by light, fruity and
macerating the skins of the grapes before pressing. garnet-red in colour.
Recioto della Valpolicella is very different, a rich,
sweet wine made from selected air-dried grapes.
Some Reciotos undergo further fermentation to
remove the sweetness, producing the strong, dry
Recioto Amarone. These are some of the strongest
naturally alcoholic wines in the world and are
delicious but expensive.
Excellent red wines are also made by producers
such as Venegazzù and Maculan from the Amarone is full-
Red Venegazzù Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. bodied, rich, full of fruit
Masi’s ripasso and very alcoholic.
Reading Wine Labels
Wine Type Recommended Producers
Italian wines are classified by
four quality levels. Starting at White Wine
the top, DOCG status Soave Anselmi, Bertani, Col Baraca (Masi), Boscaini,
(Denominazione di Origine CS di Soave, Masi, Pieropan, Scamperle,
Controllata e Garantita) has been Tedeschi, Zenato, Zonin
awarded to a small number of
Bianco di Custoza Cavalchina, Le Tende, Le Vigne di San Pietro,
Italian growing areas, none of
Pezzini, San Leone, Tedeschi, Zenato
which are in the Veneto. Most
quality wines – more than 250 Breganze di Breganze Maculan
in the whole of Italy – are in the
DOC category (as above but Gambellara CS di Gambellara, Zonin
without the “guarantee”) and
these can be relied on as good- Red Wine
value, quality wines. The IGT Bardolino Alighieri, Bertani, Bolla, Boscaini, Guerrieri-
(Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Rizzardi, Masi, Tedeschi
category corresponds to the
popular French Vin de Pays. Valpolicella Alighieri, Allegrini, Bertani, Bolla, Boscaini,
The final classification is vino Guerrieri-Rizzardi, Masi, Tedeschi, Zenato
da tavola, or table wine, but
Ripasso-Valpolicella Serègo Alighieri, Jago (Bolla), Le Cane
due to the inflexible Italian wine
(non-DC) (Boscaini), Le Sassine (Le Ragose), Campo
laws many superb wines appear Fiorin (Masi), Capitel San Rocco (Tedeschi)
in this category.
No vintage recommendations Recioto and Recioto Serègo Alighieri, Allegrini, Masi, Quintarelli,
are given in the chart because Amarone della La Ragose, Tedeschi
almost all Veneto wines are Valpolicella
made for young drinking.
White Wine
The Veneto produces more
white wine than red, and
most of the region’s whites
are from vineyards
around the hilltop
town of Soave (see
p206). These wines can
be dull, but increasing Pieropan is a top- Venegazzù’s Pinot
numbers of producers quality producer of Grigio wine is dry
are trying to raise Soave. The single- and goes well with
Soave’s image. Bianco vineyard wines from Venetian seafood.
di Custoza, a creamy, here are superb.
richer-tasting “super
Soave” from the eastern
shores of Lake Garda,
is well worth trying.
Breganze is a name
Bianco di Custoza White Recioto to look out for, with
Maculan a leader in White vino da tavola Puiatti’s white Ribolla
making fresh, clean, inexpensive wines and world- wines range from pale wine is fruity but
class dessert wines. Gambellara is made mainly and dry to sweet and dry. It is made in
from Soave’s Garganega grape and is seldom of golden coloured. neighbouring Friuli.
poor quality. Venegazzù is another producer you
can trust for good-quality white wines.
Prosecco
The Veneto’s own sparkling wine,
Apéritifs and other Drinks Prosecco is perfect as either a refreshing
Italian apéritifs tend to be wine-based, light aperitivo or with a meal. It originates
bitter, herb-flavoured drinks such as in Conegliano (see p179), the home of
Martini and Campari. Less familiar are Italy’s greatest wine school, and comes
the herbal Punt e Mes, Cynar (made in both secco (dry) or amabile (medium-
from artichokes), and the vivid orange sweet) forms, and as frizzante or
Aperol, which is good mixed with spumante (semi- and fully
sparkling). An excellent
white wine and soda. Crodino is a
accompaniment to both
popular non-alcoholic choice. For fruit and seafood, it is also
settling the stomach after a good the traditional base for
meal there are amari (bitters) and Bellini, a delicious aperitivo
digestivi. Montenegro and of wine mixed with fresh
Ramazzotti are well worth white peach juice (see p96).
trying, and grappa, distilled This drink has bred several
from wine lees (see variants, such as Mimosa
Bassano del Grappa p176), (with orange) and Tiziano
is another favourite. A (with red grape juice).
local speciality, Trevisana,
is mixed with an extract Prosecco
of the long red radicchio Bellini cocktail
from Treviso. Italian
brandy can be rather oily,
Grappa but Vecchia Romagna is
Crodino a reliable name. Coffee
Coffee is an essential part of Italian life. Milky
cappuccino with chocolate powder is drunk at
breakfast time, and tiny cups of strong black
Soft Drinks espresso throughout the day. If you like your
Italian bottled fruit juices coffee with milk, choose a caffè con latte, or with
come in delicious flavours just a dash of milk, caffè macchiato. Black coffee
such as pear, apricot and that is not too strong is caffè lungo; a
peach. Many bars will squeeze doppio has an
you a spremuta of fresh orange extra kick and
(arancia) or grapefruit a corretto
(pompelmo) juice on the has a good
spot. A frullato is an ice-cold measure
mix of milk and fresh fruit. Spremuta di arancia of alcohol. Espresso Cappuccino
Where to Eat and Drink

Ai Assassini €€ Price Guide
Venice Venetian Map 7 A2 Prices are based on a three-course meal
Rio Terrà dei Assassini 3695, 30124 per person, with a half-bottle of house
San Marco Tel 041 528 79 86 Closed Sun wine, including tax and service.
Bar all’Angolo € The menu at Ai Assassini changes € up to €30
Enoteca Map 6 F2 daily, with meat and fish dishes €€ €30–€65
€€€ over €65
Campo Santo Stefano 3465, 30124 alternating every three days. It
Tel 041 522 07 10 Closed Sun uses strictly seasonal produce.
Friendly corner bar offering
sandwiches, light meals and
salads. Great spot for people- DK Choice
watching over a glass of Al Bacareto €€
chilled Prosecco. Venetian Map 6 F2
Calle delle Botteghe 3447, 30124
Devil’s Forest Pub € Tel 041 528 93 36 Closed Sun
Venetian Map 7 B1 This cheerful, family-run osteria
Calle dei Stagneri 5185, 30124 prides itself on its local dishes
Tel 041 520 06 23 such as baccalà (salt cod),
A buzzing pub with good-value prepared mantecato (creamed),
light meals such as delicious in umido (stewed with tomato)
pasta with prawns and pumpkin, or alla Vicentina (with polenta).
served till midnight. Another traditional dish is bigoli
in salsa (wholemeal spaghetti
Rossopomodoro € with anchovies and onion). An
Venetian Map 7 C2 assortment of seafood antipasti Extensive choice of wines on display at
Calle Larga San Marco 404, 30124 makes a perfect start to an Osteria Enoteca San Marco
Tel 041 243 89 49 unforgettable dining experience.
Daily menus and set favourites with scampi and radicchio (chicory)
from the Naples area feature and granseola (spider crab).
mozzarella and local tomatoes. Antico Martini €€
Pizzas are cooked in a wood oven. Italian Map 7 A2 Do Forni €€
Campo San Fantin 2007, 30124 Fine dining Map 7 B2
Rosticceria San Bartolomeo € Tel 041 522 41 21 Closed 7 Jan– Calle Specchieri 468, 30124
Tavola calda Map 7 B1 end Jan Tel 041 523 21 48
Calle della Bissa 5424, 30124 This historic luxury restaurant This prize winning elegant
Tel 041 522 35 69 alongside La Fenice theatre boasts restaurant boasts a long list
The crowds at Rosticceria San high-quality cuisine, a vast wine of celebrity guests. The
Bartolomeo are a reflection of the list, creative dishes and impeccable menu features seasonal
excellent food served here. service. Its terrace enjoys views specialities and an extensive
The deep-fried mozzarella in over the theatre square. wine list.
carrozza is the house speciality.
Bar Cavatappi €€ Osteria Da Carla €€
Acqua Pazza €€ Enoteca Map 7 B2 Osteria Map 7 B2
Mediterranean Map 6 F2 Campo della Guerra 525–526, 30124 Corte Contarina 1535, 30124
Campo Sant’Angelo 3808-10, 32014 Tel 041 296 02 52 Tel 041 523 78 55 Closed Sun
Tel 041 277 06 88 Closed Mon; Just a few steps away from Piazza Squeeze in with the locals to
7 Jan–end Jan San Marco, this friendly bar serves enjoy typical cicchetti (bar snacks)
A winning blend of cuisine with excellent pumpkin ravioli or or sit down for a meal with
fresh ingredients from the Amalfi porcini (cep or mushroom) risotto. seasonal ingredients.
Coast and the Campania region is
on the menu. There is outdoor Centrale €€ Osteria Enoteca San Marco €€
seating in the square in summer. Italian Map 7 A2 Enoteca Map 7 B2
Piscina Frezzaria 1659, 30124 Frezzeria 1610, 30124
Tel 041 241 39 52 Tel 041 528 52 42 Closed 2 weeks
Dishes at this glamourous mid-Aug, 3 weeks Jan
canalside restaurant range from This elegant wine bar has an
snacks to full meals accompanied ambitious menu concentrating
by fine wines. The menu changes on regional produce. The wine
daily, but dishes such as lamb list favours niche producers.
shank generally feature. A good
place to party. Ai Mercanti €€€
Italian Map 7 B2
Da Raffaele €€ Calle dei Fuseri 4346/a, 30124
Venetian Map 7 A3 Tel 041 523 82 69 Closed Sun;
Ponte delle Ostreghe 2347, 30124 Mon lunch
Tel 041 523 23 17 Closed Thu Nov– Creative Italian and some
Easter international dishes are served
A well-established Venetian restau- in cosy premises that expand to
The traditional, elegant interior of rant with romantic canalside seats. a quiet courtyard in the summer
Bistrot de Venise Seafood specialities include risotto at this family-run establishment.
Alla Caravella €€€ Ristorante alla Borsa €€€ Impronta Café €€

Venetian Map 7 A2 Mediterranean Map 7 A2 Enoteca Map 6 D2
Via XXII Marzo 2399, 30124 Calle delle Veste 2018, 30124 Crosera San Pantalon 3814, 30123
Tel 041 520 89 01 Tel 041 523 54 34 Tel 041 275 03 86 Closed Sun
Sophisticated versions of local Alla Borsa was named after the This trendy wine bar is open
meat and fish dishes are served former stock exchange nearby. until late. Order a glass of
at this well-reputed stylish An extensive choice of meat wine, a coffee or a plate
restaurant decked out like and fish dishes and Italian and of pasta or salad.
a caravel sailing ship. international wines are served
in refined surroundings. Poste Vecie €€
Bistrot de Venise €€€ Fine dining Map 3 A5
Fine dining Map 7 B2 Ristorante Quadri €€€ Rialto Pescheria 1608, 30125
Calle dei Fabbri 4685, 30124 Italian Map 7 B2 Tel 041 72 18 22 Closed Tue
Tel 041 523 66 51 Piazza San Marco 1/f, 30124 Dating back to the 1500s, this
Traditional Venetian cuisine, Tel 041 522 21 05 Closed Mon claims to be the oldest restaurant
as well as innovative dishes Inventive takes on traditional in the city. Home-made pasta and
based on historic recipes, are Venetian and regional cuisine fresh fish abound on the menu.
served in an elegant setting. have earned this restaurant
a Michelin star. Tables look Trattoria alla Madonna €€
Da Ivo €€€ onto the square. Trattoria Map 7 A1
Venetian Map 7 A2 Calle della Madonna 594, 30123
Calle dei Fuseri 1809, 30124 Tel 041 522 38 24 Closed Wed;
Tel 041 528 50 04 Closed Sun; San Polo 3 weeks Jan
Jan–early Feb Al Nono Risorto € This well-known, bustling
Long-established exclusive Pizzeria Map 2 F5 restaurant is the perfect place for
restaurant located adjacent to Sottoportego di Sior Bettina 2337, traditional seafood and fish such
a canal. Local seasonal specialities 30135 as delicate granseola (spider crab)
include moeche (soft shell crabs). Tel 041 524 11 69 Closed Wed; or seppie in nero (squid in black
Advance reservation is essential. Thu lunch ink sauce). The seafood risotto is
A lively and popular pizzeria, a speciality. Diners often queue
Grand Canal €€€ Al Nono Risorto has a shady up outside.
Fine dining Map 7 B3 courtyard for summer
Calle Vallaresso 1332, 30124 dining. Advance booking
Tel 041 520 02 11 is recommended. DK Choice
Part of the Hotel Monaco Antiche Carampane €€€
(see p232), Grand Canal offers Osteria alla Patatina € Venetian Map 2 F5
stylish dining year round. The Osteria Map 6 E1 Rio Terà Carampane 1911, 30125
extensive menu features Venetian Ponte San Polo 2741/a, 30123 Tel 041 524 01 65 Closed Sun &
cuisine, fresh pasta and meat Tel 041 523 72 38 Closed Sun Mon; 2 wks Jan; end Jul–mid-Aug
and fish dishes. There is a Delicious battered vegetables This local favourite offers a
summer terrace. and creamy baccalà appetizers memorable dining experience,
can be eaten at the bar or as part with a wide variety of fresh
Harry’s Bar €€€ of a full meal at one of the tables. seafood, great pasta and
Fine dining Map 7 B3 seasonal vegetables served
Calle Vallaresso 1323, 30124 Dona Onesta €€ simply. The seafood stir-fry is
Tel 041 528 57 77 Trattoria Map 6 D2 a must have. Other highlights
Once Hemingway's cosy Calle Larga Foscari 3922, 30123 include spaghetti with crab,
watering hole, Harry’s Bar is Tel 041 71 05 86 seabass served with a pepper
an international landmark today. This old-style canalside sauce and tagliatelle with
Serves coffee and sandwiches, restaurant serves traditional duck ragut. A little difficult to
as well as the Bellini cocktail Venetian fare at affordable locate, but worth it. Booking
and carpaccio, both of which prices. Convivial atmosphere ahead is essential.
were invented here. and helpful staff.
Centrale’s stylish modern interior

For more information on types of restaurants see pp236–7
Da Fiore €€€
Fine dining Map 2 E5
Calle del Scalater 2202, 30125
Tel 041 72 13 08 Closed Sun;
Mon; 2 weeks Aug
The exclusive Da Fiore is possibly
one of the best restaurants in
Venice. Excellent use of seasonal
produce has made this hidden
gem a gourmet heaven.
Santa Croce
Al Prosecco €
Enoteca Map 2 E5
Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio 1503,
30135
Tel 041 524 02 22 Closed Sun The façade of the cosy, family-run Da Remigio
A bar serving regional cheeses
and simple meals to accom- Aciugheta €€ Da Remigio €€
pany a great range of wines. Osteria Map 7 C2 Venetian Map 8 D2
Al Prosecco offers summer Campo SS Filippo e Giacomo 4357, Salizzada dei Greci 3416, 30122
seating in a shady square. 30122 Tel 041 523 00 89 Closed Mon
Tel 041 522 42 92 dinner; Tue; 20 Dec–20 Jan
Antica Bessetta €€ Pasta, salads or freshly baked Enjoy superb seafood at this
Venetian Map 2 D5 miniature pizzas with anchovies, family-run trattoria. The risotto
Salizzada Ca’ Zusto 1395, 30135 accompanied by an apéritif, can di pesce (fish risotto) is a menu
Tel 041 72 16 87 Closed Tue; be enjoyed inside or outside in highlight. Very popular with
Wed lunch the pleasant square. Venetians so book ahead.
Tiny, historic restaurant
specializing in beautifully Al Mascaron €€ L’Olandese Volante €€
presented traditional dishes Osteria Map 7 C1 Osteria Map 7 B1
including spaghetti allo scoglio Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa Campo San Lio 5658, 30122
(pasta with crustaceans). 5225, 30122 Tel 041 099 54 81 Closed Sun
Tel 041 522 59 95 Closed Sun; breakfast
Il Rèfolo €€ mid-Dec–mid-Jan Tuck into a freshly made roll or a
Pizzeria Map 2 E5 It is advisable to book well light meal, or relax with an
Campo del Piovan 1459, 30135 ahead for this cramped but evening drink at this casual pub
Tel 041 524 00 16 Closed Dec–Jan; lively old-style osteria. Wash in a neighbourhood square. .
Mon; Tue lunch down memorable pasta
Gourmet pizzas with innovative and fish dishes with glasses Al Covo €€€
flavour combinations and simple of house wine. Fine dining Map 8 E2
pasta dishes are served at this Campiello della Pescaria 3968, 30122
pizzeria, located in a pretty Tel 041 522 38 12 Closed Wed & Thu
canalside square. DK Choice This place is a hidden gem run by
Alla Rivetta €€ a husband-and-wife team. Chef
Trattoria Map 7 C2 Cesare focuses on excellent fish
DK Choice Ponte San Provolo 4625, dishes. Leave room for one of
La Zucca €€ 30122 Diane's delicious desserts.
Italian Map 2 E5 Tel 041 528 73 02 Closed Mon
Calle del Megio 1762, 30135 The tiny Alla Rivetta, located MET €€€
Tel 041 524 15 70 Closed Sun; next to a bridge, serves Fine dining Map 8 E2
25 Dec Venetian-style, mouthwatering Riva degli Schiavoni 4149, 30122
A favourite with visitors dishes of seasonal fish and Tel 041 520 50 44 Closed Mon; Tue–
and locals alike, this seafood, including canoce Fri lunch
restaurant specializes in (mantis shrimp) and folpetti This sophisticated Michelin-
a range of flavoursome (octopus and celery). It is starred restaurant belongs to
vegetarian dishes. There are extremely popular with locals, the lagoon-front Hotel Metropole
also meat options. Booking including gondoliers, and fills (see p233).The menu features
ahead is recommended. up quickly. Book ahead or be great meat and fish dishes.
prepared to share a table.
Osteria Santa Marina €€€
Italian Map 3 B5
Castello Bacarando Ai Corazzieri €€ Campo Santa Marina 5911, 30122
Trattoria Giorgione € Venetian Map 8 E2 Tel 041 528 52 39 Closed Sun;
Trattoria Map 8 F3 Calle dei Corazzieri 3839, 30122 Mon lunch; 2 weeks Jan
Via Garibaldi 1533, 30122 Tel 041 528 98 59 A well-reputed friendly
Tel 041 522 87 27 Closed Wed Superb meat dishes and a great restaurant, Osteria Santa Marina
Friendly neighbourhood selection of cheeses and wines serves creative versions of
trattoria that serves authentic feature on the menu here. Venetian and Italian fare.
flavour-some meals. The owner Alfresco dining in summer, Excellent home-made pasta is
Lucio entertains guests with friendly service and occassional a highlight. Candlelit dining
live folk music after dinner. live music. outside in summer.
For key to prices see p242
Il Ridotto €€€ Osteria Da Codroma €€ this locally renowned down-to-

Fine dining Map 7 C2 Osteria Map 5 C3 earth trattoria. The menu changes
Campo SS Filippo e Giacomo 4509, Fondamenta Briati 2540, 30123 daily. Booking is essential.
30122 Tel 041 524 67 89 Closed Sun &
Tel 041 520 82 80 Closed Thu lunch Mon Orient Experience €
Small restaurant serving excellent Cosy venue serving traditional Middle Eastern Map 2 E3
Italian fish and meat dishes. The Venetian fare. Try the seafood Rio Terà Farsetti 1847/b, 30121
lunchtime set menu is a bargain. platter or their excellent wines. Tel 041 822 69 19
Take away or sit and enjoy
Pizzeria Oke €€ appetizing mounds of spicy Asian
Dorsoduro Pizzeria Map 6 E4 and Middle Eastern food. Live
Taverna San Trovaso € Fondamenta Zattere 1414, 30123 music gigs take place regularly.
Trattoria Map 6 E3 Tel 041 520 66 01
Fondamenta Priuli 1016, 30123 This lively pizzeria offers a vast Trattoria Da Gigio €
Tel 041 520 37 03 selection including salads, pastas Trattoria Map 2 D3
Popular bustling restaurant and meat dishes. In summer, sit Rio Terrà San Leonardo 1594, 30121
with reliable service and tasty by the waterfront. Tel 041 71 75 74 Closed Sun;
fish, meat and pizza dishes. Mon dinner
Booking is recommended. Ristoteca Oniga €€ Huge fillet steaks, grilled fish and
Trattoria-Enoteca Map 6 D3 an antipasto misto, consisting of
Agli Alboretti €€ Campo San Barnaba 2852, 30123 a tempting selection of fresh sea-
Venetian Map 6 E4 Tel 041 522 44 10 Closed Tue Jan– food, feature here. Friendly service
Rio Terrà Foscarini 882, 30123 Feb and a pleasant summer garden.
Tel 041 522 99 37 Closed Wed A great spot with tables in the
dinner; Thu; 20 days Jan; 10 days Aug square. Well-presented meat and La Cantina €€
Excellent Venetian fare including fish dishes are served with a choice Enoteca Map 2 F4
fresh ravioli with branzino (sea bass) of more than 150 different wines. Strada Nuova 3689, 30121
and pumpkin cream. The antipasto Tel 041 522 82 58 Closed Sun; first
misto features delicious seafood. La Rivista €€ 2 weeks Aug; 2 weeks Jan
Enoteca Map 6 E4 Wine bar with outdoor tables for
Ai Gondolieri €€ Rio Terrà Foscarini 979/a, 30123 people-watching. Mouthwatering
Venetian Map 6 F4 Tel 041 240 14 25 Closed Mon snacks and seafood, meat and
San Vio 366, 30123 This wine bar with modern decor cheese dishes are made to order.
Tel 041 528 63 96 Closed Tue serves light salads and cold
Fine Italian wines accompany a platters of cheeses and meats. Ostaria Boccadoro €€
superb menu of seasonal local Charming outdoor terrace as well. Venetian Map 3 C4
vegetables such as baby purple Campo Widmann 5405, 30121
artichokes and Treviso radicchio. Lineadombra €€€ Tel 041 5211021 Closed Mon Oct–
Excellent meat dishes, too. Italian Map 6 F7 Apr; 2 weeks Jan
Ponte dell'Umiltà 19, 30123 Serves creative pasta dishes and
Tel 041 241 18 81 Closed Dec–Feb; blends of seafood and seasonal
DK Choice Tue Oct, Nov, Mar & Apr vegetables, as well as superb choc-
La Bitta €€ Modern twists to Venetian cuisine olate desserts and a good wine
Venetian Map 6 D3 are served in the bright interior list. There’’s a vine-clad pergola
Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2753a, or on the waterfront terrace. for romantic outdoor dining.
30123 Excellent French and Italian wines.
Tel 041 523 05 31 Closed Sun Osteria Giorgione €€
This small but lovely osteria Ristorante La Riviera €€€ Venetian Map 3 B4
serves greatly innovative fare. Italian Map 6 E4 Calle Larga dei Proverbi 4582/a, 30121
But unusually for Venice, there Zattere al Ponte Lungo 1473, 30123 Tel 041 522 17 25 Closed Mon
are no fish dishes on offer. Tel 041 522 76 21 Closed Wed & Thu Cosy, refined restaurant serving
Expert guidance on wines. Creative Italian fare such as ricotta- seasonal fish specialities such as
filled pasta with borlotti beans and seppie in nero (cuttlefish in black
crunchy guanciale bacon is offered sauce). Good wine list.
here. Romantic waterfront seating.
DK Choice
Cannaregio Paradiso Perduto €€
Brek € Mediterranean Map 2 F3
Tavola calda Map 2 D4 Fondamenta Misericordia 2540,
Lista di Spagna 124, 30121 30121
Tel 041 244 01 58 Tel 041 72 05 81 Closed Tue &
This self-service restaurant offers Wed
fresh pasta, rolls and desserts to This atmospheric neighbourhood
eat in or take away. Excellent value. osteria and watering hole next to
a canal is a Venetian institution.
Da Marisa € The affable owner-chef Maurizio
Trattoria Map 1 C3 brings fresh fish from the Rialto
Fondamenta di San Giobbe 652, 30121 Markets every morning. Enjoy
Tel 041 72 02 11 Closed Sun, the home-made pasta, excellent
Mon & Wed lunch; 2 weeks Aug house wine and plenty of live
Diners enjoying the convivial atmosphere Huge servings of fried fish, music. Booking is essential.
of Paradiso Perduto seafood and meat are served in
Trattoria Alla Maddalena €€

Trattoria
Fondamenta di Santa Caterina 7/b,
Mazzorbo, 30142
Tel 041 73 01 51 Closed Thu
Pretty canalside trattoria with a
delightful summer garden. This
traditional place specializes in
fish, though meat is on the
menu as well.
Trattoria Busa alla Torre

da Lele €€
Venetian
Campo Santo Stefano 3, Murano,
30141
Tel 041 73 96 62 Closed dinner
daily (except Fri & Sat May–Sep)
Friendly restaurant in a
pretty neighbourhood square.
Innovative fish and vegetable
dishes, as well as memorable
Works of art adorn the walls of Da Romano desserts are on the menu.
Fiaschetteria Toscana €€€ Cip’s Club €€€

Fine dining Map 3 B5 DK Choice Fine dining
Salizzada San Giovanni Grisostomo Da Romano €€ Giudecca 10, Giudecca, 30133
5719, 30121 Fine dining Tel 041 24 08 01 Closed Nov–Mar;
Tel 041 528 52 81 Closed Tue; Via Galuppi 221, 30012, lunch daily
Wed lunch; 1 week Dec; 2 weeks Burano Part of Hotel Cipriani (see p234),
Jul–Aug Tel 041 73 00 30 Closed Sun Cip’s Club has a canalfront terrace
One of Venice's leading dinner; Tue; Jan and elegant interiors. Seasonal
restaurants. Ask for the day's Burano’s leading restaurant, Da produce and seafood are used
specialities, and leave room Romano is especially popular to make up inventive dishes.
for one of Signora Mariuccia's with artists, and paintings by Book ahead.
desserts. Book ahead. many of its patrons crowd
the walls. The fresh seafood Harry’s Dolci €€€
Osteria Orto dei Mori €€€ is prepared in traditional Fine dining
Mediterranean Map 2 F3 Venetian fashion under the Fondamenta San Biagio 773,
Campo dei Mori 3386, 30121 watchful eye of the Barbaro Giudecca, 30133
Tel 041 524 36 77 Closed Tue; family, who have owned this Tel 041 522 48 44 Closed Nov–
1 week Jul establishment since the 19th Easter; Mon dinner; Tue
Delicious meals are served century. Top-quality wines This elegant restaurant serves
in warm interiors or alfresco accompany the highly delicious meals, Bellini cocktails,
in one of the city’s prettiest memorable meals. Advance pastries and ice cream on a
squares. The menu changes reservation is essential. charming waterfront veranda.
with the seasons and features
exquisite desserts. Locanda Cipriani €€€
Figli delle Stelle €€ Fine dining
Vini Da Gigio €€€ Italian Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello,
Venetian Map 3 A4 Fondamenta della Croce 70–71, 30012
Fondamenta San Felice 3628/a, Giudecca, 30133 Tel 041 73 01 50 Closed Tue; early
30121 Tel 041 523 00 04 Closed Tue; Jan– Jan–mid-Feb
Tel 041 528 51 40 Closed Mon & Feb Refined cuisine, featuring
Tue; 2 weeks Jan; 2 weeks Aug At Figli delle Stelle, inventive home-grown vegetables and
Well-established canalside takes on Puglian and Venetian creatively prepared fish and
restaurant serving innovative cuisine are served in a casual meat, is served at the exclusive
versions of traditional dishes. and light-filled premises with Locanda Cipriani. The desserts
Try the tagliata di tonno (fresh splendid waterside seating. are heavenly. There is also
tuna with sesame) and Good wine list. an attractive garden.
agnello (lamb).
La Perla Ai Bisatei €€ Venissa €€€
Trattoria Italian
The Lagoon Islands Campo San Bernardo, Murano, Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3,
Ai Pescatori €€ 30141 30142, Mazzorbo
Venetian Tel 041 73 95 28 Closed Wed; Tel 041 527 22 81 Closed Nov–Mar;
Via Galuppi 371, Burano, 30012 dinner daily Tue
Tel 041 73 06 50 Closed Tue; Jan This no-frills restaurant, which This country-style island
Delicate seafood soup, risotto is hugely popular with the locals, restaurant has been awarded a
with fish and a host of grilled serves delicious regional fish Michelin star. Locally produced
and baked fish dishes and speacialities, seafood risotto and wines accompany the simple,
seasonal vegetables are on classic meat dishes in pleasant delicious dishes made with locally
the menu at Al Pescatori. and friendly surroundings. sourced seasonal ingredients.
GRANCONA: Da Isetta €€
The Veneto Plain Trattoria
Via Pederiva 96, 36040
ARQUÀ PETRARCA: La Tel 044 488 95 21 Closed Tue
Montanella €€ dinner; Wed
Regional Located in the Berici hills, this
Via dei Carraresi 9, 35032 welcoming, familyrun trattoria
Tel 042 971 82 00 Closed Tue dinner; specializes in dishes with polenta,
Wed; Jan chestnuts, mushrooms, steaks
La Montanella in the Euganean and a long list of mouthwatering
Hills, uses local ingredients in its desserts, including tangy sorbets.
recipes. Try the pappardelle pasta
and desserts made with chestnuts. NOVENTA PADOVANA:
Boccadoro €€
ASOLO: Al Sole €€ Regional
Italian Via della Resistenza 49, 35027
Via Collegio 33, 31011 Tel 049 62 50 29 Closed Wed
Tel 042 395 13 32 Closed Sun Nov– This wellestablished familyrun
Easter; lunch in low season Patrons dining beneath the brickwork restaurant has an excellent
Enjoy creative blends of radicchio, arches at El Gato reputation for Paduan cuisine
beans, meat and seafood on a such as bigoli pasta. There is
charming terrace at Al Sole. along with a list of wines. Pizzas an impressive wine list and
are cooked in a woodfired oven. excellent service.
ASOLO: Villa Cipriani €€€
Fine dining CHIOGGIA: El Gato €€€ PADUA: Ristorante Antico
Via Canova 298, 31011 Italian Brolo €€
Tel 042 352 34 11 Corso del Popolo 653, 30015 Osteria
Part of a grand hotel, it looks over Tel 041 40 02 65 Closed Mon Corso Milano 22, 35139
magnificent gardens and serves A bright dining room is the venue Tel 049 66 45 55 Closed Mon lunch;
creative Italian and regional cuisine for cuisine based on fresh fish 1 week mid-Aug
using locally sourced produce. and seafood. Try the calamari Sample traditional osteria fare
stuffed with vegetables and such as polpette (meatballs) and
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA: Antico served with creamed pumpkin. tripe, as well as creative Italian
Ristorante Cardellino € cuisine, at Brolo. Large salads
Regional CONEGLIANO: Al Salisa €€ and a range of pizzas are also
Via Bellavitis 17, 36061 Trattoria on the menu. Vegetarians are
Tel 042 422 01 44 Closed Thu Via XX Settembre 2/4, 31015 well catered for.
This restaurant has a seasonal Tel 043 82 42 88 Closed Wed;
menu. In spring, local white Thu lunch PADUA: Vecchia Padova €€
asparagus is served with tagliatelle Elegant trattoria with a veranda Tavola calda-Pizzeria
ribbon pasta, in flans or in the tra for alfresco dining in summer. The Via Cesare Battisti 41, 35100
ditional way with hardboiled eggs. regional menu includes lumache Tel 049 875 96 80 Closed Mon;
(snails) and vegetarian sauces. 2 weeks Aug
Delicious pizza and a huge
DK Choice DOLO: Osteria da Caronte €€ choice of pasta and meat dishes
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA: Regional can be enjoyed at this bustling
Osteria Trinità € Via Dolo 29, Paluello di Stra, 30039 venue. The seafood is also
Osteria Tel 041 41 20 91 Closed Tue excellent and there is a lunch
Via Contrà San Giorgio 17, 36061 dinner; Wed; 2 weeks mid-Aug buffet menu available. Great
Tel 042 450 37 00 Closed Thu; Friendly country osteria with value for money.
Sat lunch innovative dishes featuring
Cosy, smart Veneto osteria seasonal produce. Excellent value.
that specializes in grilled meats
and wines. Leave room for DOLO: Villa Goetzen €€
a dessert from the mouth Italian
watering trolley display. Via Matteotti 2/c, 30031
Tel 041 510 23 00 Closed Sun
dinner; Thu; 3 weeks Aug
CAORLE: Duilio €€ Part of a hotel housed in an 18th
Regional century villa, this lovely riverside
Via Strada Nuova 19, 30021 restaurant specializes in fish dishes.
Tel 042 18 10 87 Closed Mon in Try the homemade desserts.
low season
This hotel restaurant has a vast DOLO: Villa Nani Mocenigo €€
choice of fresh seafood dishes Fine dining
such as exquisite grilled sole. Riviera Martiri della Libertà 113,
30031
CASTELFRANCO: Alla Torre € Tel 041 560 81 39 Closed Mon;
Pizzeria Tue dinner
Piazza XXIV Maggio 2/4, 31033 Delicious risottos and seafood
Tel 042 349 54 45 are served in this splendid villa
Huge choice of pasta, grilled meat setting. There is also an enoteca Villa Ciprani’ s elegant dining room
and desserts are on offer here, in the former stables. overlooking beautiful landscaped gardens
REFRONTOLO: Antica Osteria including delicious mushrooms, GARDA: Locanda San Vigilio €€
al Forno €€ asparagus and radicchio (chicory). Fine dining
Regional Excellent service. Punta San Vigilio, 37016
Via degli Alpini 5, 31020 Tel 045 725 66 88 Closed mid-
Tel 043 889 44 96 Closed Mon; Tue; VICENZA: Antica Casa della Nov–Mar
Wed & Thu dinner; 3 weeks Jan; 3 Malvasia €€ Part of the beautiful lakeside
weeks Aug Enoteca hotel (see p235), this superb
Rustic yet homely osteria run by Contrà Morette 5, 36100 restaurant serves traditional
a friendly couple. Locally grown Tel 044 454 37 04 Closed Mon; last cuisine. A signature dish is grilled
vegetables and herbs, as well 2 weeks Jul fish seasoned with local olive oil.
as organic wines and Prosecco In the heart of historic Vicenza, There is a buffet lunch in the
feature on the menu. this bustling friendly osteria garden courtyard in summer and
is a favourite with the locals candlelit dining in the evening.
SARMEOLA DI RUBANO: and has an imaginative menu
Le Calandre €€€ with local specialities such ISOLA DELLA SCALA:
Italian as bigoli all'arna (spaghetti Risotteria Melotti €
Via Liguria 1, 35030 with duck sauce). Risotteria
Tel 049 63 03 03 Closed Sun, Mon & Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 37063
Tue lunch; 2 weeks Jan; 2 weeks Aug VICENZA: Antico Guelfo €€ Tel 045 730 02 36 Closed Tue;
This restaurant has three Michelin Regional 3 weeks Aug
stars thanks to chef Max’s creative Contrà Pedemuro San Biagio 92, Nestled among rice fields, this
cooking. The lavishly presented 36100 risotto heaven has over 20
dishes are served in a contem Tel 044 454 78 97 Closed Tue varieties on offer daily, along with
porary setting. Reserve ahead. This upmarket restaurant ricebased entrées and desserts.
has a tradition of fine cooking. Advance booking recommended.
TREVISO: Ristorante Under new management
Beccherie €€ since 2016, the restaurant MALCESINE: Ristorante
Regional has maintained its standard. La Pace €€
Piazza Ancilotto 9, 31100 Choose from an eclectic mix Regional
Tel 042 254 08 71 of traditional Veneto and Via Casella 1, 37018
Set in an amospheric old building, modern dishes. Very popular, Tel 045 740 00 57
Beccherie whips up traditional so book ahead. Enjoy grilled lake fish and fresh
fare such as guinea fowl in pepper homemade pasta in a tiny
sauce. Leave room for dessert – waterfront square at the
tiramisù was invented here! picturesque old harbour. Book
Verona and ahead in summer.
DK Choice Lake Garda RIVA DI GARDA: Osteria
TREVISO: Toni del Spin €€ BOSCO CHIESANUOVA: Il Gallo €
Trattoria Locanda Maregge € Trattoria
Via Inferiore 7, 31100 Trattoria Piazza San Rocco 12, 38066
Tel 042 254 38 29 Closed Mon Località Maregge 1, 37021 Tel 046 455 62 00 Closed Jan; Mon–
lunch; 2–3 weeks end Jul–Aug Tel 045 705 00 63 Closed Thu Fri lunch Nov–Feb
This wonderful trattoria is This friendly roadside trattoria Friendly, goodvalue trattoria
crammed with people, in the Lessini hills specializes with a huge choice of local
paintings and memorable food. in polenta with grigliata mista Trentino specialities such as
A blackboard lists the seasonally (mixed grilled meat) and gnocchi carne salada con fasoi (cured
changing menu. Highlights with local malga cheese. meat with beans).
include pasta e fagioli (pasta and
bean soup), rabbit with olives,
veal with local radicchio and
desserts galore. Book ahead.
VALDOBBIADENE: Bar Alpino €

Enoteca
Via Mazzolini 14, 31049
Tel 0423 98 21 18 Closed Wed
A range of seafood, cheeses
and meats are served here to
accompany choice wines from
the heart of Prosecco country.
VENEGAZZU: Trattoria
Da Celeste €€
Regional
Via Diaz 12, 31040
Tel 042 362 04 45 Closed Mon
dinner; Tue
A wellloved traditional
restaurant with a vast wine list.
Choose from a range of grilled
meats and seasonal delicacies The minimalist monochromatic decor of Le Calandre
BELLUNO: Terracotta €€
Italian
Borgo Garibaldi 61, 32100
Tel 0437 29 16 92 Closed Tue;
Wed lunch
Friendly family-run restaurant
serving seasonal specialities,
which include venison, snails
and pumpkin-filled ravioli.
Excellent wine list.
CORTINA D'AMPEZZO: Pizzeria

Ristorante Croda Cafè €
Pizzeria
Large selection of wines at Ristorante Taverna Piazza Pittori Fratelli Ghedina 28,
32043
SANT'ANNA DI ALFAEDO: VERONA: Ristorante Tel 0436 86 65 89 Closed Tue
Ponte di Veja €€ Castelvecchio €€ Choose from pizzas, good-value
Regional Regional pasta and local dishes such as
Ponte di Veja, 37020 Corso Castelvecchio 21/a, 37121 polenta con funghi (mushrooms)
Tel 045 754 50 48 Closed Tue except Tel 045 803 00 97 Closed Tue; at this restaurant. The frutti di
in summer Wed lunch; Aug bosco (summer berries) with ice
This bustling rustic eatery A warm, well-established cream is a perfect dessert.
serves grilled meat, polenta con restaurant specializing in Verona
soppressa (thick sausage) and cuisine such as Risotto all'Amarone CORTINA D'AMPEZZO:
game dishes. and liver dishes. There are good Baita Fraina €€
vegetarian options and an Regional
SIRMIONE: Antica Trattoria impressive wine list. Fraina 1, 32043
La Speranzina €€€ Tel 0436 36 34 Closed Mon
Italian in low season; mid-Apr–mid–Jun;
Via Dante 16, 25019 DK Choice Oct; Nov
Tel 030 990 62 92 Closed Mon VERONA: Ristorante Enjoy traditional casunzièi
Nov–Mar Greppia €€ (home-made pasta with
Romantic terraces overlook the Regional beetroot), hearty soups and
lake here. The refined creative Vicolo Samaritana 3, 37121 flavoursome roast meats at this
cuisine includes tagliolini Tel 045 800 45 77 Closed Mon Alpine chalet with a convivial,
all'astice (thin ribbon pasta with Run by the Guizzardi family family atmosphere and fabulous
crayfish). The desserts are divine. since 1975, this warm and views of the Dolomites.
inviting restaurant is named
TORRI DEL BENACO: after a feeding trough. Diners
Gardesana €€ who go for the Verona signature DK Choice
Fine dining dish bollito misto are treated CORTINA D'AMPEZZO:
Piazza Calderini 5, 37010 to a spectacular trolley of El Zoco €€
Tel 045 722 54 11 Closed Tue; steaming meats and attendant Regional
Nov–Mar sauces (starting with the pearà Località Cademai 18, 32043
The Gardesana serves fish and – pepper sauce), served with Tel 0436 86 00 41 Closed Lunch
meat dishes in a romantic great flourish at their table. daily & Mon in low season
lakefront setting. Try the This romantic restaurant
carpaccio di tonno affumicato lined with old wood panelling
(thin-sliced smoked tuna). VERONA: Il Desco €€€ is run by an attentive wine
Italian expert who is always at
VALEGGIO SUL MINCIO: Antica Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5-7, 37121 hand to present the menu
Locanda Mincio €€ Tel 045 59 53 58 Closed Sun & Mon and suggest suitable wines.
Regional (open Mon dinner July, Aug & Dec) The chef serves up generous
Via Michelangelo Buonarroti 12, This Michelin-starred restaurant portions of hearty Italian
37067 run by a father-and-son team mountain fare such as canederli
Tel 045 795 00 59 Closed Wed; is set in a 16th-century palazzo. (dumplings), ciaspes (pasta au
Thu; 2 weeks Nov; 2 weeks Feb The imaginative menus change gratin), delicate paté and game.
Formerly a staging post, this with the seasons. Excellent value for money.
delightful restaurant features a
frescoed dining room and shaded
tables that overlook the river. The NEVEGAL: Ristorante
lake fish and eel are specialities. The Dolomites La Casera €
Regional
VERONA: Arche €€ BELLUNO: Ristorante Via Faverghera 752, 32100
Trattoria Taverna €€ Tel 0437 90 81 80 Closed Mon
Via Arche Scaligere 6, 37121 Trattoria Perched high on Col Visentin,
Tel 045 800 74 15 Closed Sun; Via Cipro 7, 32100 this rustic mountain restaurant
Mon lunch; 2 weeks Jan Tel 0437 251 92 Closed Sun; offers sweeping panoramic views
Established in 1877, Arche is 1 week Jan; 2 weeks Jun–Jul and a traditional menu that
one of the best restaurants in Popular restaurant that specializes focuses on delicious grilled
Verona. Fish features prominently in grilled meat, game and schiz, meats and polenta. Advance
on the menu. a local cheese baked in the oven. reservation is recommended.
Bars and Cafés in Venice

Many bars in Venice draw their trade from tourists and are from a slice of bread and
busy throughout the day, as visitors ease their aching feet and prosciutto crudo (raw cured
consult their guidebooks. Custom is swelled mid-morning ham), meatballs or fried
vegetables, to sardines and
and around lunchtime as the Venetians drop in for a drink or baccalà (salt cod). The shade
snack. Cafés range from basic one-room bars patronized by is a glass of wine, so called
local workmen, to opulent coffeehouses in old-world style, because the gondoliers used to
such as Caffè Quadri and Caffè Florian. Even the humblest snatch a glass in the shade away
establishment provides a continuous range of refreshments from the glare of the sun on the
water. Wine bars serving these
and you can enjoy anything from a morning coffee or
snacks and a range of wines
lunchtime beer, to an apéritif or a final brandy before bed. are numerous and heavily
Bars also serve snacks throughout their opening hours: freshly populated by locals. Many, such
baked morning pastries and lunchtime sandwiches, rolls, as Do Mori, are in the crowded
cakes, biscuits and sometimes home-made ice cream. Wine alleys off the Rialto, but one of
bars often have a wide range of traditional Venetian snacks, the nicest is the Cantina del
Vino già Schiavi near the Ponte
and so make good places to stop for lunch.
San Trovaso.
Bars wonderful cakes, or for an
Italians will often stop for expensive treat, go to Harry’s Cafés and Ice-Cream
breakfast in a bar on their way Dolci on the Giudecca (see p246). Parlours
to work.This normally consists Bear in mind that sitting Coffeehouses have played
of a cappuccino (milky coffee) down to drink in a bar or café their part in the history of the
and a brioche (a plain, jam- or can cost a lot more than Veneto – notably Padua’s Caffè
cream-filled pastry). Pasticceria standing at the bar, as there is Pedrocchi (see p182) – and a
Dal Mas, on the main route a table charge, which can be visit to Venice would not be
from the station to the Rialto, high. This rises proportionally complete without a drink at
is much favoured by early- as you draw nearer San Marco. the historic Caffè Florian or
morning commuters. Some bars, particularly in the Caffè Quadri. It is a hard
A wide range of alcoholic less tourist-frequented areas, decision whether to take a
drinks is on offer, and you can have a stand-up counter only. table outside and watch the
ask for a glass of wine or beer All have a lavatory (il bagno or il crowds or to experience the
on tap. Beer from the keg is gabinetto), though you may elegant charm of the interior
called birra alla spina and comes have to ask at the desk for the rooms, with their atmosphere
in three different sizes: piccola, key. It is also worth noting that of past eras. The prices are sky-
media and grande. Italian and bars and cafés tend to shut high, but you can take your
imported bottled beers are also earlier here than in other parts time and be entertained by
available, though the latter can of Italy, particularly in winter. the resident orchestras.
be expensive. All bars serve The normal procedure is to Harry’s Bar (see p96), is
glasses of mineral water and it is choose what you want to eat or another world-famous bar
acceptable to request a glass of drink, then ask for it and pay at and café. In summer it is
tap water (acqua del rubinetto), the cash desk. You will be given crammed with foreigners
which will be free. Most bars a receipt (lo scontrino) which and the prices are always high,
also serve delicious freshly you present at the bar. If they but for a treat, sip a Bellini,
squeezed fruit juices (una spre are busy, a small tip will usually a mixture of Prosecco and fresh
muta) and milkshakes made speed things up. If you decide white peach juice, in the place
with fruit (un frullato). Italian to sit down, either inside or at where it was invented.
bottled juices are good and are an outside table, your order will The cafés along the Zattere,
available in unusual flavours be taken by a waiter who will with their lovely views across
such as apricot and pear. bring the bill when he delivers the Giudecca Canal, make good
All bars serve a range of the drinks. You should expect to places to pause, and the prices
sandwiches (tramezzini) and pay double or more for this, but are much lower. Many Venetian
filled rolls (panini), and often you can stretch your drink out squares have cafés with tables
have toasted sandwiches and for as long as you like. outside. There are several in the
pizzas as well. Some double as Campo Santo Stefano, or try
cake shops (pasticceria), and Bar Colleoni in Campo Santi
these have a tempting range of Wine Bars Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo).
calorie-filled delights on display There is an old tradition in Il Caffè is the nicest in Campo
to eat in or take away. If you are Venice called cichetti e l’ombra, Santa Margherita.
near the Accademia, seek out meaning “a little bite and the Venetian ice cream is
the tiny Pasticceria Toletta for shade”. The little bite ranges definitely among the best in
Italy, with ice-cream shops (una coppa) and it is normal based Turin speciality.
(gelaterie) serving a wide to have at least two flavours. Make certain you buy ice
selection of seasonal flavours, Paolin on Campo Santo Stefano cream made on the premises,
some unique to Venice. The is one of the best ice-cream artigianato or produzione
Venetians eat ice cream all year shops. You could also try Il propria, and experiment with
round, often instead of pudding Doge, which is in Campo Santa what is clearly seasonal; the
or as the finale to the evening Margherita, and Nico on the high-summer fruit ices such
stroll, or passeggiata. It comes as Zattere, where you will find as melon, peach and apricot
either a cone (un cono) or a cup gianduiotto, a rich chocolate- are delightfully refreshing.
DIRECTORY
San Marco Gelateria Alaska Bar Gelateria Il Gelatone
Calle Larga dei Bari, Il Doge Rio Terrà Maddalena,
Bar Gelateria Paolin Santa Croce 1159. Campo Santa Margherita, Cannaregio 2063.
Campo Santo Stefano, Map 2 D5. Dorsoduro 3058a. Map 2 F3.
San Marco 2962a. Map 6 D2.
Map 6 F3. Castello Osteria da Alberto
Bar Gelateria Nico Calle Larga Giacinto
Caffè Florian Bar Colleoni Zattere ai Gesuati, Gallina, Cannaregio 5401.
Piazza San Marco, Dorsoduro 922. Map 3 C5.
Campo Santi Giovanni e
San Marco 56/59. Map 6 D4.
Paolo, Castello 6811. Pasticceria Dal Mas
Map 7 B2. Map 3 C5. Cantina del Vino Lista di Spagna,
Caffè Quadri Bar Gelateria Riviera già Schiavi Cannaregio 150/a.
Piazza San Marco, Ponte de la Pietà, Riva Ponte San Trovaso, Map 2 D4.
San Marco 120–24. degli Schiavoni 4153. Dorsoduro 992.
Map 7 B2. Map 8 D2. Map 6 E4. The Lagoon
Harry’s Bar Islands
Bar Mio Il Caffè
Calle Vallaresso, Via Garibaldi, Campo Santa Margherita, Al Bar Trono di Attila
San Marco 1323. Castello 1820. Dorsoduro 2963. Via Borgognoni 7/a,
Map 7 B3. Map 8 F3. Map 6 D3. Torcello.
Hostaria ai Rusteghi Bar Orologio El Sbarlefo Bar della
Campiello del Tentor, Campo Santa Maria Calle San Pantalon, Maddalena
San Marco 5513. Formosa, Castello 6130. Dorsoduro 3757. Via Mazzorbo 7/b,
Map 7 B1. Map 7 C1. Map 6 D2. Mazzorbo – Burano.
Osteria Terrà La Boutique Pasticceria Toletta Bar Ice
Assassini del Gelato Rio Terrà della Toletta, Campo San Donato,
Rio Terrà degli Assassini, Salizzada San Lio, Dorsoduro 1192. Murano.
San Marco 3695. Castello 5727. Map 6 D3. Map 4 F2.
Map 7 A2. Map 7 B1.
Cannaregio Bar La Palanca
Rosa Salva Caffè al Cavallo Fondamenta Santa
Calle Fiubera, San Campo Santi Giovanni e Alla Bomba Eufemia, Giudecca 448.
Marco 951. Map 7 B1. Paolo, Castello 6823. Calle dell’Oca, Map 6 D5.
Vino Vino Map 3 C5. Cannaregio 4297. Bar Palmisano
Ponte delle Veste, Map 3 A5.
Snack & Sweet Via Baldassare Galuppi
San Marco 2007. Salizzada San Lio, Bar Algiubagio 351, Burano.
Map 7 A3. Castello 5689. Fondamente Nuove, Harry’s Dolci
Map 7 B1. Cannaregio 5039.
San Polo and Fondamenta San Biagio,
Map 3 C4. Giudecca 773.
Santa Croce Dorsoduro
Bar Gelateria Map 6 D5.
Al Prosecco Accademia Foscarini Solda
C. San Giacomo dell’Orio, Rio Terra A Foscarini, Campo Santi Apostoli,
S Croce 1503. Map 2 E5. Dorsoduro 878/c. 0. Cannaregio 4440.
Map 6 E4. Map 3 B5.
Bottega del
Caffè Dersut Ai do Draghi Caffè Pasqualigo
Campo dei Frari, Calle della Chiesa, Salizzada Santa Fosca,
San Polo 3015. Dorsoduro 3665. Cannaregio 2288.
Map 6 E1. Map 6 F4. Map 2 F4.
Do Mori Al Chioschetto Enoteca Boldrin
Calle Do Mori, Zattere San Canciano,
San Polo 429. Dorsoduro 1406a. Cannaregio 5550.
Map 3 A5. Map 6 D4. Map 3 B5.
SHOPS AND MARKETS

The narrow streets of Venice are lined with and alongside papier-mâché carnival masks,
beautifully arranged windows that cannot glass and lace, you will find high-quality
fail to tempt shoppers, and the city has fashion and leather goods, antiques and
the additional bonus of being truly jewellery, as well as fine food. In the Veneto,
pedestrianized. Few cities of similar size which is one of Italy’s most prosperous
have such a wide variety of goods to browse regions, every town boasts a wide range
through as you explore the fascinating of shops, and many have seasonal speciality
and diverse neighbourhoods. There is markets. In country areas you can buy wine
still a strong artisan tradition in Venice, and olive oil direct from the producers.
two or three weeks during the stores, while near the station
national holiday time in August. the bustling Lista di Spagna
The best time for finding and the route along the Strada
bargains is during the January Nova towards the Rialto cater
and July sales: look out for for the everyday needs of
window signs with the words ordinary Venetians.
saldi or sconti. The islands of Murano and
Burano (see pp156–7) are the
places to buy traditional glass
Where to Shop in Venice and lace.
The glittering Mercerie (see p99),
which runs from Piazza San
Marco to the Rialto, has been How to Pay
the main shopping street since Major credit cards are usually
the Middle Ages and, together accepted in the main stores for
with the parallel Calle dei Fabbri, larger purchases, but cash is
is still a honey pot for the preferred for small items, and
crowds. West of San Marco, the smaller shops will want cash.
Display of jewellery in a shop window in zigzagging Frezzeria is full of Travellers’ cheques are also
the Frezzeria interesting and unusual shops. accepted, though the rate that
The main route from the Piazza you will get is less favourable
When to Shop to the Accademia Bridge is lined than at a bank.
Generally, shops open around with upmarket speciality stores, By law, shopkeepers should
9 or 9:30am and close for lunch while the streets north of give you a receipt (ricevuta
at 12:30 or 1pm, with the Campo Santo Stefano (see p97) fiscale), which you should keep
exception of food shops and are another excellent trawling until you are some distance away
markets, which are in business ground for quality souvenirs from the store (legally this is
from 8am. In the afternoon and gifts. 600 m/660 yards). If a purchased
stores are open from 3:30pm Across the Grand Canal, the item is defective, most shops will
to 7:30pm in winter, and 4pm to narrow streets from the Rialto change the article or give you a
8pm in summer. In Venice, many southwest towards Campo San credit note, as long as you show
stores aimed directly at tourists Polo (see p105) are lined with a the till receipt. Cash refunds are
are open all day and even on wide variety of less expensive not usually given.
Sundays, as are big out-of-town
supermarkets and hyper-
markets – useful if you are VAT Exemption
self-catering in the region. Visitors from non-European
Monday is usually the Union countries can reclaim
traditional closing day in about 12 per cent of the sales
northern Italy, though again tax (IVA) on goods exceeding
this does not apply to all shops €154 from the same shop.
in Venice itself. The smaller Ask for an invoice when you
towns in the Veneto often have buy the goods and inform the
very variable opening hours, shop that you intend to reclaim
with perhaps food shops the tax. The invoice must be
closing on Mondays but stamped at customs as you
ironmongers and clothes leave Italy. The shop will
shops closing on Wednesdays. reimburse the tax in euros
Shops and markets in the A colourful display of T-shirts with the once they have received
Veneto are often closed for “Venezia” logo the stamped invoice.
SHOPS AND MARKETS  253
leading up to Carnival, mask

makers are, of course, extremely
busy, but at other times of the
year many workshops welcome
visitors and are pleased to show
you their craft (see p35).
Glass
The best place to buy glass is
on the island of Murano, where
it has been made since the 13th
century (see p157). All the main
manufacturers have their
furnaces and showrooms here,
Designer clothes shop in Treviso catering to mainstream taste.
Some manufacturers also have
Fashion and Accessories and other luxury fabrics, all showrooms in Venice itself.
In Venice, the big names in woven on 17th- century hand- On Murano, Fornace Mian
fashion are all found near San operated looms. and Barovier e Toso make glass
Marco. Armani, Gucci, Missoni to traditional designs with good
and Roberto Cavalli all have simple lines. Another option is
stylish shops just off the Piazza. Masks and Costumes Totem-il Canale, which has an
For really innovative and You can buy cheap, mass- excellent selection of both
outrageous designs visit produced masks all over the traditional and contemporary
Fiorella in Campo Santo city, but a genuine one is a designs. Venini has shops near
Stefano. The stalls at the foot good souvenir, and you will San Marco; it represents the top
of the Ponte delle Guglie be spoiled for choice. Papier end of the market and some of
on Strada Nuova sell a Maché in Castello its designs are very pleasing. For
range of good value specializes in traditional superb antique glass beads, go
leather shoes and a mask making and their to Paropamiso in Frezzeria.
wide variety of designs are absolutely
traditional Venetian stunning. Near Campo
slippers in a stunning San Polo Tragicomica Jewellery
range of colourful sells costumes and Venice’s smartest jewellers are
velours. For a genuine A typical masks, as well as Nardi, on the arcades of Piazza
gondolier’s shirt, take a Venetian mask commedia dell’arte San Marco, and Missiaglia, close
look in Emilio Ceccato. figures. You will find to Zattere in Dorsoduro. Shops
these at Leon d’Oro on the on the Rialto Bridge sell cheaper
Frezzeria too, where they also designs, and this is a good place
Fabrics and Interior make string puppets. Dorsoduro to find bracelets and chains,
Design has several workshops; whose price is determined
Venice has long been famed L’Arlecchino di Marilisa dal by the weight of the gold.
for sumptuous brocades, fine Cason, not far from the Rialto For inexpensive, pretty Venetian
silks and figured velvets. Trois Bridge in San Polo, has a glass earrings, necklaces and
sells silks by the metre, marvellous selection of papier- bracelets try FGB in Campo
including the gossamer-fine mâché masks. In the weeks Santa Maria Zobenigo.
pleated silks invented by
Fortuny for his Delphos dresses
(see p98), and Il Canapè has
wonderful designer silks and
other fabrics in its shop near
Campo San Pantalon. The
famous house of Rubelli has
its headquarters at Palazzo
Corner Spinelli near Campo
Sant’Angelo. Here you will find
a variety of rich brocades and
velvets. Color Casa, in San Polo,
has equally lovely textiles at
slightly lower prices. Luigi
Bevilacqua, at Ponte della
Canonica, sells beautiful
brocades, velvets, damasks Wide range of fruit and vegetables for sale in the Rialto market
A typical general food store in the San Marco area

Department Stores Handmade marbled and shops. Olive oil, vinegar and
Department stores are not as dragged paper are typically dried pasta, which comes in
common in Italy as in many Venetian, and used as book many colours, shapes and
other countries. The main covers and made up into flavours, are all good choices if
chain store in Venice is Coin, writing desk equipment. you are looking for food to take
which sells everything from Paolo Olbi has a wide range home. Aliani (Casa del
umbrellas to tableware. of papers, while Alberto Valese- Parmigiano) is a superlative
Oviesse and Upim are cheaper Ebru uses a distinctive marbling cheese shop right by the
supermarket-style options. You technique on fabrics as well as vegetable market, where you
will find branches of these in paper. For watercolour views can also buy a selection of fresh
other towns in the Veneto. of Venice, try the stalls in pasta, salamis and ready-made
Campo dei Santi Apostoli. dishes for a picnic.
The San Barnaba area has On Ruga Rialto, the
several art and craft shops Drogheria Mascari has a fine
where you can buy unusual range of coffees, teas, dried
gifts and souvenirs. Signor fruits and nuts. Pasticceria
Blum on the Campo San Tonolo is one of Venice’s
Barnaba has charming carved best pasticcerie, selling
and painted wooden objects traditional sweetmeats, as
and toys. Another carver, Livio well as cakes and biscuits.
de Marchi, makes large Vizio Virtù makes wonderful
whimsical wooden ornaments. chocolates, some in the shape
Gilberto Penzo offers boat of Venetian masks.
models – you can even buy a kit
to make your own. Lanterna
Magica sells interesting
children’s games and toys. For
unusual trinkets and ornaments,
browse in Officina Veneziana.
Treasure trove in one of the art shops Markets and Food Shops
on Murano One of the delights of Venice is
a morning spent exploring the
Books and Gifts food markets and shops around
Filippi Editori Venezia stocks the Rialto. Fruit and vegetable
facsimile editions of old books stalls sprawl to the west of the
and books about Venice. bridge and the Pescheria, or fish
English-language books are market, lies right beside the
sold at Cafoscarina 3, Libreria Grand Canal (see p104). The
Marco Polo, Marco Polo Kids neighbouring streets are full Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, the main
and Libreria Emiliana. of unusual and excellent food shopping street of the Lido
DIRECTORY
Fashion and Rubelli Jewellery Marco Polo Kids
Accessories Campiello del Teatro, Calle Teatro Malibran
San Marco 3877. FGB
Cannaregio 5886/a.
Armani Map 7 B2. Campo Santa Maria
Map 3 B5.
Calle Goldoni, Tel 041 523 61 10. Zobenigo, San Marco
2514. Map 7 C1. Tel 041 522 63 43.
San Marco 4412.
Map 7 A2. Trois Tel 041 523 65 56. Officina Veneziana
Campo San Maurizio,
Tel 041 523 47 58. Missiaglia Calle San Pantalon,
San Marco 2666.
Fondamenta Bragadin, Dorsoduro 3752/a.
Emilio Ceccato Map 6 F3.
Sottoportico di Rialto, Dorsoduro 586. Map 6 D2.
Tel 041 522 29 05.
Map 6 E4. Tel 041 720 313.
San Polo 16/17.
Masks and Tel 041 522 44 64.
Map 7 A1. Paolo Olbi
Tel 041 522 27 00. Costumes Nardi Calle Foscari,
Procuratie Nuove, Dorsoduro 3253.
Fiorella Gallery L’Arlecchino di
Piazza San Marco,
Campo Santo Marlisa dal Cason Map 6 D2.
San Marco 69/71.
Stefano, Ruga Vecchia San Tel 041 523 76 55.
Map 7 B2.
San Marco 2806. Giovanni, San Polo 789.
Tel 041 522 57 33. Signor Blum
Map 6 F3. Map 3 A5.
Tel 041 520 65 29. Campo San Barnaba,
Tel 041 520 92 28. Books and Gifts Dorsoduro 2840.
Gucci Leon d’Oro Map 6 D3.
Alberto Valese-Ebru
Calle Larga XXII Marzo, Frezzeria, San Marco 1770. Tel 041 522 63 67.
Campiello Santo Stefano,
San Marco 2102. Map 7 A2.
San Marco 3471.
Map 7 A3. Tel 041 520 33 75. Food Shops
Map 6 F3.
Tel 041 241 39 68. Papier Maché Tel 041 523 88 30.
Calle Lunga Santa Maria
Aliani (Casa del
Missoni Cafoscarina 3 Parmigiano)
Formosa, Castello 5175.
Calle Vallaresso, Calle Foscari, Erberia Rialto,
Map 7 C1.
San Marco 1312. Dorsoduro 3259.
Tel 041 522 99 95. San Polo 214/5.
Map 7 B3. Map 6 D2.
Map 3 A5.
Tel 041 520 57 33. Tragicomica Tel 041 240 48 03.
Tel 041 520 65 25.
Calle dei Nomboli, Filippi Editori Venezia
Roberto Cavalli San Polo 2800. Calle Casselleria, Drogheria
Calle Vallaresso, Map 6 F1. Castello 5284. Mascari
San Marco 1314. Tel 041 72 11 02. Map 7 C1. Ruga Rialto, Calle dei
Map 7 B3.
Tel 041 523 69 16. Spezieri San Polo 381.
Tel 041 529 90 20. Glass Map 3 A5.
Gilberto Penzo
Stalls at the foot of Barovier e Toso Tel 041 522 97 62.
Calle dei Saoneri,
Ponte delle Guglie Fondamenta Vetrai 28, San Polo 2681. Map 6 E1. Pasticceria
Strada Nuova, Murano. Map 4 E3. Tel 041 524 61 39. Tonolo
Cannaregio. Map 2 D3. Tel 041 73 90 49.
Lanterna Magica Calle San Pantalon,
Fabrics and Fornace Mian Ponte San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 3764.
Interior Design Fondamenta Vetrai 143, Dorsoduro 2808. Map 6 D2.
Murano. Map 4 E2. Map 6 D3. Tel 041 523 72 09.
Color Casa Tel 041 73 94 23. Tel 041 523 83 13.
Calle della Madonneta, Vizio Virtù
Paropamiso Libreria Emiliana
San Polo 1990. Calle Forneri, Castello
Frezzeria, San Marco 1701. Calle Larga Prima,
Map 6 F1. 5988. Map 7 B1.
Map 7 A2. San Polo 2941.
Tel 041 523 60 71. Tel 041 522 71 20. Tel 041 275 01 49.
Map 6 E1.
Il Canapè Totem-il Canale Tel 340 411 56 67.
Calle San Pantalon, Campo Carità, Libreria Marco Polo
Dorsoduro 3736. Dorsoduro 8786. Campo San Margherita
Map 6 D2. Map 6 E3. Dorsoduro 2899.
Tel 041 714 264. Tel 041 522 36 41. Map 5 C3.
Luigi Bevilacqua Tel 041 822 48 43.
Venini
Ponte della Canonica, Piazzetta dei Leoncini, Livio de Marchi
San Marco 337/b. San Marco 314. Calle del Dose, San Marco
Map 7 C2. Map 7 B2. 2742/A. Map 6 F3.
Tel 041 528 75 81. Tel 041 522 40 45. Tel 041 528 56 94.
What to Buy in the Veneto

Glass is the most popular Venetian souvenir, but there are
many other possibilities, ranging from Carnival masks and
ceramics to fabrics and lace. For food lovers there is a wide
selection of local olive oils, honey, wines and preserves. In the
Veneto many food producers sell direct to
the public, while different craft and food
specialities are found in individual
towns and islands.
Modern vase of opaque glass Traditional glass with gold overlay Two-coloured goblet
Venetian Glass
Famous Murano glasses come in
both traditional and avant-garde
styles. The talented glassblowers
also turn out some fabulous beads.
Gift box covered in

marbled paper
Venetian Marbled Paper Address book

Marbled paper is a Venetian
speciality. The sheets of paper are
dipped into liquid gum before
adding the paint. You can buy a
large range of stationery items
covered in the paper, as well as
paper by the individual sheet. Each
sheet of marbled paper is unique.
Pretty trinket box Sheets of marbled paper
Crafts from the Veneto

The ancient patterns of
Burano lace are used to
great advantage on table
linen and to trim
exquisite lingerie. Hand-
painted vases, plates and
bowls are produced in
the picturesque old town
of Bassano del Grappa.
Delicate lace collar from Burano
Decorated ceramic
vase from Bassano Silver spoon with Venetian lion finial
Red and gold mask Carnival mask

Bottle of Veneto Chardonnay
Masks (see pp34–5) Wine
Mask designs range from Commedia dell’Arte motifs to modern Home to white wines such the
abstracts from young designers, and many are intricate and sparkling Prosecco from the hills
colourful. They are available all year, but at Carnival time you can around Valdobbiadene and the red
buy them from street stalls. Bardolino and Valpollicella above
Verona, the Veneto is one of Italy’s
biggest wine-producing areas.
A wine worth tasting in Venice is
the Amarone della Valpollicella.
Pasta
Attractively packaged dried
pasta comes in many colours,
shapes and flavours. Tomato,
herb and spinach are the most
popular varieties, but beetroot,
garlic, artichoke, salmon, squid,
and even chocolate can also
be found in many shops.
Artichoke Beetroot Squid Pasta shapes
Amaretto biscuits
Balsamic vinegar and Panettone

extra virgin olive oil
Delicacies from the Veneto

Panettone is the light yeast cake, flavoured with
vanilla and studded with currants and candied peel,
that is traditionally eaten at Christmas. Other local
delicacies include olive oil from the shores of Lake
Garda, vinegars, mountain honey from Belluno,
fruit-flavoured liqueurs, grappa from Bassano (see
p176), and after-dinner Amaretto biscuits. Orange liqueur Lime liqueur Pear liqueur
ENTERTAINMENT IN
THE VENETO
Venice was once one of Europe’s liveliest The day-to-day evening entertainment in
night-time cities, and it still has an impressive Venice itself tends to be far less frenetic than
range of special events throughout the year. in the heyday of the Republic (see pp50–51),
In every season there are some distinctively though there are still a few clubs and discos
Venetian festivals, and in late summer to be found across the causeway in Mestre.
the normal city diet of opera, theatre and For those that fancy a flutter, try the casino.
concerts is augmented by the world-class The quintessential Venetian romantic
International Film Festival and the Biennale. experience is, of course, a gondola ride
The mainland has its share of entertainment. by moonlight (see p283). However, there’s
Verona hosts its famous opera festival in the plenty to do in the evenings for free,
Roman Arena throughout the summer and the including a stroll along the canal, or
smaller Veneto towns hold pageants. The chess passeggiata, a visit to the central squares
game in Marostica is certainly worth seeing. of the Veneto, or a drink at a bar or café.
Information about what’s on in
Venice can be found in Leo
Bussola, a free bilingual Italian
and English booklet published
quarterly by the Tourist Board.
2Night is a free fortnightly
publication with listings of
concerts and events. Another
publication, Un Ospite di Venezia
(A Guest in Venice), comes out
fortnightly during the summer
and monthly in the winter, and
is available from most hotels.
The Venetian newspaper Il
Gazzettino also lists cinema
performances, rock concerts Partita a Scacchi, the colourful human chess game, in progress at Marostica (see p176)
and discos under Spettacoli.
Posters advertising forthcoming Booking Tickets to pay an advance booking
cultural events are displayed Booking in advance is not part supplement, or prevendita,
all over town. of the Italian lifestyle, where which is usually about 10 per
For details of events and decisions are made on the spur cent of the price of the seat.
festivities in the other towns of the moment. If you want to The price of a theatre ticket
and cities in the Veneto, ask be certain of a seat you will starts at about €16, though
at the local tourist offices. have to visit the box office in prices are likely to be five
Regional newspapers also person, as they usually do not times as much for star-name
often have listings of what take bookings over the performances. Tickets for
is on in their area. telephone. You may also have popular music concerts are
normally sold through record
and music shops whose
names are displayed on the
publicity posters.
Whereas tickets for classical
concerts are sold on the spot for
that day’s performance, opera
tickets are booked months
ahead. There are very few ticket
touts, so it is almost impossible
to obtain tickets when the box
office has sold out. The Teatro
Goldoni box office is open
The lavish interior of La Fenice opera house (see p97) 10am–1pm and 3–7pm.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H E V E N E TO  259
Cinema and the

Film Festival
There are several cinemas in
Venice, mainly showing dubbed
versions of international films.
These are known as prima visione
(first run). The Giorgione Movie
d’Essai and Cinema Rossini
show arthouse films as well as
the usual commercial fare.
Multisala Astra screens mainly
blockbusters, as well as some
arthouse films. You will find
these listed in Il Gazzettino.
The annual Film Festival, which
takes place in August and
September, is one of the major
world cinema showcases and
has been running since 1932.
Screenings are held in the
Palazzo del Cinema on the
Lido, the Giorgione and the
Arena di Campo San Polo, an Outdoor entertainment in the courtyard of the Doge’s Palace
open-air cinema. Tickets are sold
to the public direct from the the Doge’s Palace’s courtyard, At Carnival time in February
cinema on the day of screening. albeit occasionally. (see pp34–5), the whole city
Programmes can be obtained in La Fenice (see p97), one of takes on a party atmosphere as
advance from the tourist office. Italy’s most charming opera it is invaded by merry-makers in
houses and the main local fancy dress. Many theatrical
venue for major operas, suffered and musical events take place,
a disastrous fire in early 1996. both in theatres and in the
It reopened in November 2004 streets and campi.
and now shares the opera,
classical music and ballet
programme with Teatro Malibran. Facilities for the Disabled
Venice’s principal theatre is Access for disabled people is
Teatro Goldoni where, not difficult everywhere in Venice,
surprisingly, the repertoire is and theatres are no exception,
mainly drawn from the 250 or although concerts are often held
more comic works written by in easily accessible churches.
the Venetian dramatist Carlo PalaFenice and Teatro Malibran
Goldoni (1707–93). Most guarantee obstacle-free entrance
Teatro Goldoni, Venice’s main theatre performances are staged for the disabled if contacted one
in Italian and run from week in advance (fax: 041 786 50).
Music and Theatre November to June. For more advice, see page 269.
Like many Italian cities, Venice
makes good use of the most
magnificent churches as
concert halls. La Pietà (see
p116) was Vivaldi’s own
church and is still used for
concerts, as are the
churches of the Frari (see
pp106–7) and San Vidal.
Other concerts are held
from time to time in
Scuola di San Giovanni
Evangelista (see p108) and
the Palazzo Prigioni Vecchie,
the old prison attached to the
Doge’s Palace (see pp88–93). In
the summer, the garden of Ca’
Rezzonico (see p130) is also used
as an outdoor concert hall, as is Masked reveller at Carnival time (see pp34–5)
The Biennale and Music and Theatre

other Exhibitions in Verona
Venice is without doubt one of Verona has two exceptional
the leading art exhibition centres openair venues for theatre
in Europe, offering shows on and music: the superb Arena
themes ranging from art history (see p197), and the 1stcentury
to photography, and frequently Teatro Romano (see p204) on
playing host to the world’s major the far side of the River Adige.
travelling exhibitions. There are The Arena is a popular site
excellent facilities for such exhi for rock concerts and is interna
bitions, and these include the tionally renowned for its summer
Doge’s Palace, the Museo Correr, opera season. The Teatro Romano
the Palazzo Grassi, the Peggy stages a succession of ballets and
Guggenheim, the Querini Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi on the Grand drama, including a Shakespeare
Stampalia and the Fondazione Canal in Venice, housing a casino Festival, in Italian translation.
Cini. Un Ospite di Venezia will give Tickets for the Teatro can be
details, as will the tourist office the University Wednesday ordered by post; they are also
and posters around the city. (Mercoledì Universitario) is a sold at the box office at the
One of the best and largest weekly event that takes place Arena. Information about all the
exhibitions is the Biennale, an at F30 in winter, and on the Lido entertainment is given in the
international display of contem in summer. Alternatively go to Verona newspaper L’Arena.
porary and avantgarde art which the mainland, where
was first begun in 1895. It is held Mestre has a few discos
from June to September in odd to choose from. You Pageants and
numbered years. The main site is will find these Local Festivals
the Giardini Pubblici (see p125), clubs advertised The Veneto is proud
where the specially built pavilions in the Spettacoli of its traditions, which
represent about 40 different listings in Il are best displayed
countries. Another branch of the Gazzettino. Placido Domingo singing in its local festivities.
exhibition showing the work of at the Verona Festival Marostica hosts a
less established artists, takes place human chess game
around the city in venues such Children in medieval costume once every
as the old rope factory in the If you are travelling with two years, while Montagnana
Arsenale (see p123). The Biennale children, there are plenty and Feltre both hold palios, with
also organizes architecture, dance, of activities to enjoy in Venice their fascinating medieval rites.
theatre and music festivals. and the Veneto, which cater Food festivals also abound, such
to younger visitors (see p270). as a celebration of asparagus in
The mainland in particular has Cavallino and, of course, wine
Casinos, Clubs and Discos promising attractions. Around in the Veneto hills (see pp36–9).
If you want to gamble or play Lake Garda there are various
roulette during your visit to watersports as well as a
Venice, there is a magnificent theme park, Gardaland® Opera at the Arena
casino housed in the Palazzo Resort (see p211). Almost everyone will enjoy the
Vendramin-Calergi on the experience of hearing opera in
Grand Canal (see p65) and you the magnificent openair setting
can sweep up to the stately of the Arena. Opera buffs should
entrance by gondola. be aware, however, that Verona
Venice Jazz Club in Dorsoduro performances are very much
is the best jazz venue in town, “opera for all”. You should be
with live music five nights a week. prepared for lessthan
Paradiso Perduto and the cosier perfect acoustics, noisy
Bentigodi, both in Cannaregio, audiences and small
also feature live bands. Though children running about. The
discos are a rarity in Venice, opera season runs from the first
week in July until the beginning
of September, and every year
features a lavish production
of Verdi’s Aida. Performances
start at 9pm, as dusk is falling,
and it is customary to buy
one of the little candles
that are on sale. Ten minutes
before the “curtain goes
Giant dragon at the Gardaland® Resort theme park, Lake Garda (see p211) up”, the whole Arena
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H E V E N E TO  261
Aida, performed annually in Verona’s Roman Arena
becomes a breathtaking sight, Ticket prices are high, though seats are more comfortable, but
with a sea of flickering lights. there are some concessions. An seats lower in the Arena can be
During the intervals, most unreserved, un-numbered, back- very hot and airless and the view
people eat the picnics they have less seat in the gradinata, or tiers, of the stage can be restricted.
brought with them, or buy panini is €21, while the poltrone (arm- You may well prefer to sacrifice
and ice creams. Glass bottles are chairs), either on the steps or in comfort for fresh air and a bird’s-
not allowed in the Arena, so the stalls, range from €85 to €160. eye view. Unless you have a seat
if you are taking a drink make If you decide to get a cheap seat, in the best stalls with the glitterati,
sure it is in a plastic bottle. arrive at least 2 hours before the there is no need to dress up.
Be warned that toilets are few performance and sit halfway Visitors flock to Verona to
and far between and are most down the tiers, where the acous- attend the opera season, so you
likely to have lengthy queues tics are better. You can hire an air need to book accommodation
during the intervals. cushion for about €3. Numbered well in advance.
DIRECTORY
Music and Theatre Cinemas Palazzo del Cinema University
Lungomare G Marconi, Wednesday
San Vidal Arena di Campo Lido. Tel 041 272 65 01. F30, Stazione FS,
Campo San Vidal, San San Polo Fondamenta Santa Lucia,
Marco 2862/b. Map 6 E3. Campo San Polo, Casinos, Clubs Cannaregio. (in winter)
Tel 041 277 05 61. San Polo. and Discos Map 1 B5. Tel 041 525
61 54. ∑ f30.it
∑ interpreti Map 6 F1. Bentigodi
Aurora Beach, Lido
veneziani.com Tel 041 274 71 40. Calesele, Cannaregio
(in summer).
1423.
Teatro La Fenice Cinema Rossini Map 2 E3. Venice Jazz Club
Campo San Fantin, San Salizzada del Teatro, Tel 041 822 37 14. Ponte dei Pugni,
Marco 1965. Tel 041 24 San Marco 3997/a. Dorsoduro 3102. Map 6
Palazzo Vendramin-
24. ∑ teatrolafenice.it Map 6 F2. D3. Tel 340 150 49 85.
Calergi
∑ venicejazzclub.
Teatro Goldoni Tel 041 241 72 74. Grand Canal,
weebly.com
Cannaregio 2040.
Calle Goldoni, San Marco Giorgione Movie
Tel 041 529 71 11. Verona Opera
4650/b. Map 7 A2. d’Essai ∑ casinovenezia.it
Tel 041 240 20 11. Rio Terra dei Franceschi,
Paradiso Perduto Main Box Office
∑ teatrostabileveneto.it Cannaregio 4612. Tel 045 800 51 51.
Fondamenta della
Map 7 A2. ∑ arena.it
Teatro Malibran Misericordia,
Tel 041 522 62 98. Cannaregio 2540. Ticket Agent
Corte del Milion,
Map 1 C4. Vertours, Galleria Pellicciai
Cannaregio 5873. Multisala Astra Tel 041 72 05 81. 13, 37121 Verona.
Map 7 B1. Tel 041 24 24. Via Corfù 9, Lido. ∑ ilparadiso Tel 045 929 82 00.
∑ teatrolafenice.it Tel 041 526 57 36. perduto.com ∑ vertours.com
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS AND

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
The Veneto’s rich cultural heritage and wide for many types of boating as well as more
range of natural landscapes makes it a active watersports and birdwatching.
perfect location for numerous specialist The towering mountains in the Alpine
holidays and outdoor excursions. The city of hinterland are challenging walking and
Venice hosts a dazzling array of study courses climbing country, while in the winter there
and craft workshops, including traditional is skiing, facilitated by an excellent network
mask making and glass blowing. It is also an of cable cars and lifts. Between mountain
unforgettable location in which to learn and sea are gentle hills, perfect for horse-
Italian. Outside of the city, the region’s riding enthusiasts and home to various
coastal and inland waterways provide space relaxing local spas.
Arts and Crafts in fields such as photography

Each summer the Venice in and art throughout the
Peril Fund organizes a series summer. Lessons in crafting
of lectures on the precious papier-mâché Carnival masks
heritage of the city, aimed at are given at the dynamic
history of art enthusiasts. Ca’ Macana workshop and
More practical courses are can be followed in several
given by expert local crafts- different European languages.
people to anyone wishing Year-round courses in
to discover the intricacies engravings, as well as oil
of a range of crafts. Following and watercolour painting,
a centuries-old tradition of glass- are run by the friendly atelier
making, the Scuola del Vetro Bottega del Tintoretto.
Abate Zanetti prides itself on A larger institution, with
Cookery courses at Tasting Places teaching traditional and contem- a vast range of open-air
porary methods and styles at its painting and graphic design
Cookery Courses and premises on the island of Murano, classes, is the Scuola
Wine Tasting the heart of the city’s glass Internazionale di Grafica.
Visitors wishing to discover trade. Glass-making is also on Courses on old textiles
the secrets of the local cusine offer through the Vivo Venetia are occasionally held at
should try one of the many organization, as are lessons in Palazzo Mocenigo, home
cookery courses on offer in furniture restoration. Techniques to the Centro Studi di Storia
Venice. Most include a shopping for repairing stucco and marble del Tessuto e del Costume.
trip to the markets of Rialto, work can be learned at the well- Even the ancient intricate
before the preparation of a established European School art of lacemaking is still
traditional meal. TasteVenice for Heritage Crafts and demonstrated, by its few
offers such a visit, followed Professions set in the grounds remaining expert practitioners,
by cooking and wine tasting of Villa Fabris near Vicenza. at the Museo del Merletto
in a Venetian palazzo, while IED Venezia offers a range on the distant and colourful
Venice & Veneto Gourmet of workshops and courses island of Burano.
offer a gourmet lagoon tour
as well as wine tastings. Day
classes with top chefs are
offered at The Gritti Epicurean
School Venice located in the
Gritti Palace Hotel.
Beyond Venice, Maria’s
Cookery Course runs classes
to the fish market of Chioggia
and wine tours to the Euganean
Hills near Padua. Rome-based
Delicious Italy can arrange for
a unique custom-made gastro-
nomic tour across the rest of
Veneto with a focus specifically
on regional specialities. Papier-mâché carnival masks on display at the Ca’ Macana workshop
S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S A N D O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S  263
Veneto. Well frequented in

summer by the locals, the
Veneto seaside resorts also cater
to the needs of overseas visitors.
Caorle and Jesolo, close to
Venice, are very popular, as
is Rosolina Mare and Albarella,
which is near the Po Delta. The
Venice Lido is also a very pleasant
place to swim, although a fee is
charged to use the beach huts.
For a free public beach, head
along to the Alberoni.
Lastly, for those in search of
a more challenging experience,
there is white-water rafting
and canoeing on the Brenta
Climbing in the spectacular Dolomites River. The experienced crew
at Ivan Team can arrange a
Walking, Climbing in the lagoon, exploring its craft, with all the necessary
and Cycling myriad islands and waterways. equipment, and transport.
During the summer and Rendez-vous Fantasia has a fleet
autumn months, keen walkers anchored at Chioggia, while
and trekkers should head straight Houseboat Holidays Italia are
up to the imposing Dolomites, based at Porto Levante in the Po
where hundreds of kilometres Delta. For those who have never
of clearly marked pathways sailed before, or would like
wind their way through brightly a more relaxed trip, Il Bragozzo
flowered meadows and spec- arrange day trips on the Venice
tacular rocky landscapes. Easy Lagoon, with an experienced
access combined with a network sailor at the helm.
of high-altitude refuge huts In Venice there are many
make this a very accessible opportunities to take advantage
activity. For walkers who require of the waterways. A good sense
extra assistance, Cortina Guides of balance and plenty of energy
can provide specialist help with are required for rowing in the
their team of experts. Club traditional standing-up style.
Alpino Italiano (see p230) has Clubs such as the Bucintoro
branches in all major towns and on the Zattere, active since
offers qualified guides for such 1882, welcome visitors and Windsurfing near Torbole Lago di
climbs as the via ferrata routes, provide lessons for novices. Garda Veneto
as well as for more general Sailing enthusiasts, on the
walking tours. UK-based Colletts other hand, can contact one Language Courses
Mountain Holidays also offers a of the city’s clubs: those keen One of the best and most
good range of trips. Additionally, on old-style wooden craft with beautiful places to learn Italian
many sporting facilities such as colourful sails should contact is in Venice. Visitors who are keen
Lidoonbike on the Lido offer the Associazione Vela al Terzo, to take part in a course should
cycling opportunities. or for sleek modern yachts there enrol in Italian for Foreigners at
is the prestigious Compagnia the Ca’Foscari School for Inter-
della Vela, which is based national Education attached
Watersports on the island of San Giorgio. to the university. Classes are
A quick glance at a map reveals Further afield Lake Garda in an atmospheric modernized
the many coastal and inland is the place for windsurfers. palazzo and are supplemented
waterways along the Veneto’s Schools such as Surfsegnana, by access to well-stocked
Adriatic coast. It is unsurprising at Torbole in the northern multimedia labs with all manner
that watersports are a speciality reaches of the lake, offer a good of support material. Another
here. It is possible to explore the range of courses and holidays. centrally located school is the
region at your own pace by The lake also guarantees superb Istituto Venezia, which offers
hiring a motorboat from swimming, especially off Sirmione a good range of lessons, including
Cristiano Brussa. (Customers in the south, where the bleached a cookery course in Italian, as well
will need to demonstrate some rocks and crystal clear water are as arranging for concerts, cultural
experience in handling craft.) reminiscent of the Caribbean. initiatives and excursions.
Another truly unique holiday can A string of yellow-sand beaches Accommodation is either
be experienced on a houseboat lines the Adriatic coast of the homestays or self-catering flats.
Winter Sports join a group accompanied by a Birdwatching

A winter holiday in the breath- local Alpine guide to explore the Pink flamingoes flock in
taking Dolomite mountains can more secluded slopes. Snow- spectacular numbers to the
include an extraordinary range shoeing is also undergoing a sprawling Po Delta Park in
of activities. Wrapped up warm revival. Guides and modern the winter months, though
and plastered with high-factor equipment can be found at all the local waterfowl are worth
sun protection cream, visitors in the major resorts. There is superb visiting at any time of year.
need of relaxation can laze on cross-country skiing in the Also, on the western edge of
the sun decks in the ski resorts. Veneto. The vast undulating the Venice Lagoon, located
Those in search of exciting Asiago plateau north of Vicenza on the Romea road that links
downhill skiing can head for has hundreds of kilometres of Mestre with Chioggia, is the
Arabba, which has a superb prepared tracks for both classical wetland reserve Oasi Valle
series of cable cars to whisk and skating techniques. Contact Averto, run by the World Wide
skiers up to the snow fields, the Consorzio Turistico for Fund for Nature. This reserve
including the Marmolada information about the main is accessible by bus.
glacier. Val Zoldana, dominated centres, such as Campolongo
by the magnificent Civetta and and Enego, which all have top-
Pelmo mountains, is another level facilities. Further west is
excellent location. If a chic the Monti Lessini above Verona,
ambience is important, you where pistes fan out from
must stay at Cortina d’Ampezzo, Bosco Chiesanuova; the best
which hosted the Winter source of information is the
Olympics in 1956 and now boasts Lessinia Turistsport.
excellent modern ski facilities
and lifts, including the Tofana
cable car. All the resorts are Spa Holidays
managed by Dolomiti Superski, As the ancient Romans
which includes 12 ski areas and discovered to their delight,
an amazing 1,200 km (750 miles) naturally occurring spas are
of pistes all covered by a single dotted across the Veneto, and
pass. Slopes for intrepid snow- visitors can pamper body and
boarders are also included. mind with a soak in a thermal
Toddlers to adults, beginners pool or with a relaxing massage.
to more advanced skiers, and Abano-Montegrotto Terme in
anyone in between can attend the Euganean Hills has
the ski school run by the numerous hotels with steaming
qualified ski instructors of the outdoor and indoor pools,
Scuola Sci, which is found at all catering to both long-term and Horse riding at Salten Jenesien
the main centres. day visitors. The Consorzio
Cortina d’Ampezzo, Alleghe Terme Euganee can help Horse Riding,
and Val Zoldana also have organize your holiday. Golf and Tennis
indoor ice rinks, which make a Further afield, on the southern The rolling Euganean Hills near
refreshing change to the high shore of Lake Garda, is the state- Padua together with the
energy of the slopes. of-the-art spa facilities at Terme foothills of the Dolomites have
Experienced skiers wishing to di Sirmione, which continue a plenty of quiet roads and lanes
get away from the pistes can tradition going back to the 1500s. suitable for horse riding. Several
agriturismo establishments such
as Il Faè near Conegliano keep
stables and all the facilities
needed for riding holidays.
Along the Lido, Tennis Club
Venezia offers membership
and tournaments. Many of the
other notable golfing facilities
in the Veneto are to be found
in the hinterland. These include
a course in the lovely garden
premises of Golf Club Villa
Condulmer at Mogliano.
However, for a game with
a difference, visitors can play
a few rounds at the Circolo
Golf Venezia at Alberoni, also
Cable car and downhill slopes in the Dolomites situated on the Venice Lido.
S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S A N D O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S  265
DIRECTORY
Cookery Courses Palazzo Mocenigo Houseboat Holidays Scuola Sci Cortina
and Wine Tasting Santa Croce 1992, Venice. Italia d’Ampezzo
Map 2 F5. Tel 041 72 17 Via C. Colombo 36/a, Piazzetta San Francesco 8,
Delicious Italy 98. ∑ mocenigo. Porto Levante, Porto Viro. Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Via Benaco 15, Rome. visitmuve.it Tel 042 666 60 25. Tel 043 629 11.
Tel 06 841 12 22. ∑ houseboat.it ∑ scuolascicortina.com
∑ deliciousitaly.com
Scuola Internazionale
di Grafica Il Bragozzo
The Gritti Epicurean Calle del Cristo, Cannaregio Spa Holidays
Tel 388 182 60 09.
School 1798, Venice. Map 2 E4.
∑ ilbragozzo.it
Tel 041 72 19 50. Consorzio Terme
Campo Santa Maria
∑ scuolagrafica.it Ivan Team Euganee
del Giglio 2467, 30124
Via Fontanazzi 1, Solagna. Largo Marconi 8,
Venice. Tel 041 79 46 11. Scuola del Vetro
Tel 042 455 82 50. Abano Terme.
∑ thegrittiepicurean Abate Zanetti
∑ ivanteam.com Tel 049 866 62 62.
school.com Calle Briati 8/b, Murano, ∑ abanomonte
Maria’s Cookery Venice. Map 4 F2. Rendez-vous Fantasia grottosi.it
Course Tel 041 273 77 11. Via Roma 1445 Chioggia.
Via Rossi 65, Venice. ∑ abatezanetti.it Tel 041 551 04 00. Terme di Sirmione
Piazza Virgillo 1,
Tel 042 59 96 67. Venice in Peril Fund Surfsegnana
∑ mariascookery Tel (44) 020 7736 6891. Sirmione.
Foci del Sarca, Torbole. Tel 030 916 81.
course.com ∑ veniceinperil.org
Tel 046 450 59 63. ∑ termedisirmione.
Taste Venice Vivo Venetia ∑ surfsegnana.it com
Tel 393 996 61 22. Tel 041 528 89 25.
∑ tastevenice.it ∑ vivovenetia.com Language Birdwatching
Courses
Venice & Veneto Walking, Climbing Oasi Valle Averto
Gourmet and Cycling Ca’ Foscari School Lugo di Campagnalupia.
San Polo 2308, Venice. for International Tel 041 518 50 68.
Map 6 E2. Tel 041 275 06 Colletts Mountain Education ∑ wwf.it/oasi
87. ∑ veniceveneto Holidays San Sebastiano,
gourmet.com 3A Market Hill, Saffron Dorsoduro 1686, Venice. Po Delta Park
Walden, Essex, UK. Via Marconi 6, Ariano nel
Map 5 C3. Tel 041 234 73
Arts and Crafts Tel (44) 01799 513 331. Polesine.
60. ∑ unive.it/pag/9915
∑ colletts.co.uk Tel 042 637 22 02.
Bottega del Istituto Venezia ∑ parcodeltapo.org
Cortina Guides Office
Tintoretto Corso Italia 69/a, Cortina Campo S Margherita,
Fondamenta dei Mori, d’Ampezzo. Tel 043 686 85 Dorsoduro 3116/a, Horse Riding,
Cannaregio 3400, Venice. 05. ∑ guidecortina.com Venice. Map 6 D2. Golf and Tennis
Map 2 F3. Tel 041 72 20 81. Tel 041 522 43 31.
∑ tintorettovenezia.it Lidoonbike ∑ istitutovenezia.com Circolo Golf Venezia
21/b Gran Viale, Lido. Strada Vecchia 1,
Ca’ Macana Tel 041 526 80 19.
Calle delle Botteghe,
Winter Sports Alberoni, Lido di Venezia.
Tel 041 73 13 33.
Dorsoduro 3172, Venice. Watersports Consorzio Turistico ∑ circologolfvenezia.it
Map 6 D3. Tel 041 277 61 Asiago 7 Comuni
42. ∑ camacana.com Associazione Golf Club Villa
Viale Trento Trieste 19,
Vela al Terzo
European School for Asiago. Tel 042 446 41 37. Condulmer
Giardinetti Reali, San
Heritage Crafts and ∑ asiago.to Via della Croce 3,
Marco 556, Venice.
Professions ∑ velaalterzo.it
Zerman di Mogliano,
Dolomiti Superski Veneto.
Villa Fabris, Via Trieste 43, ∑ dolomiti
Bucintoro Tel 041 45 70 62.
Thiene. Tel 044 537 23 29. superski.com
Rowing Club ∑ golfvillacondulmer.
∑ villafabris.eu
Zattere, Dorsoduro Lessinia Turistsport com
IED Venezia 263, Venice. Map 7 A4.
∑ altalessinia.it
Palazzo Franchetti, Tel 041 520 56 30. Il Faè
Campo San Vidal, San ∑ bucintoro.org Scuola Sci Alleghe Via Faè 1, S Pietro
Marco 2842, Venice. Compagnia della Vela Civetta di Feletto.
Map 6 F3. Tel 041 277 11 Corso Italia 1, Alleghe. Tel 043 878 71 17.
S Marco 2, Venice. Map 7
64. ∑ ied.it A3. Tel 041 522 25 93. Tel 043 772 37 16. ∑ ilfae.com
∑ compvela.com ∑ scuolascialleghe
Museo del Merletto Tennis Club Venezia
civetta.it
Piazza Galuppi 187, Cristiano Brussa Lungomare G Marconi
Burano, Venice. Ponte delle Guglie, Scuola Sci Arabba 41/d, Lido.
Tel 041 73 00 34. Cannaregio 1030, Venice. Via Mesdi 56, Livinallongo. Tel 041 526 03 35.
∑ museomerletto. Map 2 D3. Tel 041 275 01 Tel 043 67 91 60. ∑ tennisclubvenezia.
visitmuve.it 96. ∑ cristianobrussa.it ∑ scuolasciarabba.com com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 268–277

Getting to Venice
Getting around Venice
Venice Street Finder 288–301
268  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The wealth of art and architecture found in with individual museums or the tourist
Venice and the cities of Padua, Verona and office. Italians also enjoy visiting their art
Vicenza can dazzle and overwhelm. Avoid cities, so public holidays and weekends
cultural overload by sightseeing in the often mean larger crowds. To make the
morning, relaxing over lunch as the Italians most of your stay, take a tour by bus or on
do and shopping or visiting churches in the foot with a qualified guide who can explain
late afternoon. In the Veneto, restoration of the key sights and history. For lovers of
buildings and artworks is an ongoing outdoor pursuits, the Veneto also has
process, and you may often see the sign areas of outstanding natural beauty
chiuso per restauro (closed for restoration). along its coast and inland, in the hills
Always check opening hours in advance and mountains.
volume; 4 litres of wine; 50 grams

of perfume. Allowances for EU
residents are almost unlimited,
providing that the goods are
for personal use only.
The tax refund system
(Imposta sul Valore Aggiunto)
for non-EU residents is com-
plicated; it is worth reclaiming
only if you have spent at least
€154 in one establishment.
Ask the cashier to fill out the
form for you, and when leaving
the country take the goods in
your carry-on luggage for
approval at the airport tax
Tourists shopping and sightseeing on Venice’s Rialto Bridge refund office. The website of
the Agenzia delle Dogane
When to Go However, a visa may be needed (Italian customs) provides
July and August can get very for longer stays – check with further information.
hot and sticky in Venice and your embassy – and is required
the Veneto towns. For a cooler, for business or study related trips.
quieter time, visit in winter, By law, all visitors to Italy must Tourist Information
spring and autumn. However, be register with the police within All major towns in the Veneto
aware that Venice is often subject three days of arrival; all hotels have excellent tourist offices.
to acqua alta (tidal flooding) in will request your passport on In high season, Venice, Verona
autumn (see Walking, p282), checking in for such purpose. and Padua also have several
and the whole of the Veneto The Ministero degli Affari information points at railway
experiences thick fog in winter. Esteri (Foreign Office) or any stations and key sights. The
Most places around Lake questura (police station) can offices in smaller towns may
Garda close during winter, while provide information on any visa be of limited help. Tourist
the Dolomites have two distinct requirements (see p273). offices in Venice have city
seasons: December–March Visitors can get up-to-date maps, vaporetto maps, lists of
for skiing and snow-related travel safety information from accommodation options and
activities, and June–September the Foreign and Common other literature. Travel agents
for hiking. Hotels, guesthouses wealth Office in the UK, the and hotels are also good
and restaurants tend to cease State Department in the US sources for information on
trade between these times. and the Department of Foreign the city, tours and local events
Affairs and Trade in Australia (see pp36–9). In Venice, Eventi e
Manifestazioni is a useful free
Visas and Passports booklet with listings informa-
All visitors need a valid passport. Customs Information tion; its equivalent in Verona is
European Union (EU) residents Duty free are as follows: non-EU Carnet Verona. Both are available
and visitors from the United residents can bring in either 200 from tourist information offices.
States, Canada, Australia and cigarettes, 50 cigars, 100 cigarillos To obtain information prior to
New Zealand do not need visas or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 litre travelling, contact ENIT (Italian
for stays of up to three months. of alcohol above 22 per cent State Tourist Board) in your
San Giorgio Maggiore church and gondolas at dawn, Venice
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  269
home country. An array Taxes and Tipping

of publications and maps can Like other EU countries, Italy has
also be downloaded from each a form of Value Added Tax (VAT),
city’s tourist board website. which is called Imposta sul Valore
Aggiunto (IVA); see Customs
Information. The standard rate
Admission Prices of IVA on goods and services is
Most museums, art galleries and 21 per cent. Hotels generally
archaeological sites charge an include the tax in the room rate.
entry fee, but there are usually Always keep a few euros close
concessions for children, students to hand for hotel staff such as
and senior citizens over 65. porters and chambermaids. In
Venice’s civic museums pass, restaurants you may like to
valid for six months, is available round up the bill, though a
from any of the sights included service charge is often already
in the deal or online at Venezia added. Italian taxi drivers do not
Unica, where you can choose expect a tip, and there is no
which combination of services need to tip a gondolier.
you want. You can also pick up
a card from a Venezia Unica desk Basilica di Sant’Antonio in Padua
at the airport, station, or the city’s Travellers with
tourist offices. This includes entry in tourist areas, no lunch break Special Needs
to museums and churches, and is observed. Many supermarkets Venice’s many stepped bridges
savings on other admission fees, in the larger towns stay open all make it difficult for the
vaporetto tickets and car parking. day, seven days a week. wheelchairbound to get
Verona has the Verona Card around the city; in addition,
(€18 for 24 hours or €22 for 48 many bridge lifts are being
hours), which covers entry to Etiquette removed, further limiting
the main churches, museums Any attempt by foreign visitors disabled access.
and monuments, as well as to speak Italian is always Normal vaporetti (such as
travel on the city buses. The appreciated by the locals. Few line 1) are accessible to wheel
card is available from Verona’s people speak English in the chairs since the deck is on the
tourist office and any of the Veneto, but hotel receptionists same level as the landing
participating sights. are usually helpful and will stages, and there is reserved
Some churches in smaller readily make any enquiries and space on board. Water taxis
towns may not charge an reservations on your behalf. (see p283), however, are
admission fee. To avoid offence, always dress hazardous for wheelchair
decently, particularly if visiting users and should be avoided.
churches, where bare shoulders The Venezia Accessibile
Opening Hours and shorts are considered unsuit information pack details a wide
Due to constant restoration of able. Photography is forbidden range of barrierfree itineraries,
many ageing palaces, museums in most churches. Being drunk with maps and route
and galleries, opening hours are in a public place is frowned instructions. It also shows
subject to change. The tourist upon, and smoking is banned places of interest that can be
office can supply a list of in all public buildings, including visited by or have special
opening times or, if you are in restaurants and bars, as well as on facilities for the disabled, and
Venice, you can also consult the vaporetti. Feeding the pigeons how to reach them by vaporetto
booklets Eventi e Manifestazioni in Piazza San Marco is illegal, or by land. Venezia Accessibile
or Un Ospite di Venezia, and if caught you may be fined. is available at tourist offices or
which are available from most downloadable from the Venezia
hotels. Museums are often shut Unica website.
on Mondays. Public Conveniences
Churches are usually open There are few public toilets in
midmorning and late afternoon. the Veneto, although Venice
Many Venetian churches are is better served. Public
managed by Chorus, which conveniences in Venice are
sells a useful pass for multiple usually signed and cost €1.50.
church entries. You can also use the toilets at
Most food shops open at railway stations and in cafés and
8am, while other stores open at bars. Ask for il bagno (the bath
9 or 10am. Many close for a long room) or il gabinetto (the toilet).
lunch break from 12:30pm to Public toilets are always short
around 4pm, then stay open of paper, so it is a good idea A mechanically operated wheelchair ramp
until about 7:30pm. However, to carry tissues with you. across a bridge
Travelling with Children Most sights throughout a Carta d’Argento. This card
Italians love children, and while the Veneto offer discounted entitles people over 60 to
hotels and restaurants may not admission for families. discounts of 15 per cent on
always be equipped for young first- and second-class train
visitors, they will be happy to tickets. Yearly membership to
accommodate them. Most Student Travellers the Carta d’Argento costs €30
restaurants have highchairs Full-time students who are for those over 60 years of age
and will serve children simple in possession of a valid and is free to seniors who are
meals such as pasta with olive International Student Identity over 75 years old. This can be
oil or tomato sauce. It is best to Card (ISIC) will usually get applied for at the main train
request a cot at your hotel in reductions on museum entry stations and travel agencies.
advance of your visit. A holiday- fees and other charges across
let apartment (see pp230–31) is the Veneto. However,
an excellent solution if you occasionally this is restricted to
need kitchen access and play students residing in the EU. The
space. A useful website, Rolling Venice card, available to
Italy Family Hotels allows 14- to 29-year-olds for a small
you to search and book fee, provides a package of useful
accommodation for information on the city. This
specifically child-friendly includes alternative itineraries,
hotels throughout the Veneto fashionable haunts and lists of
and the country. shops, hotels, theatres and
Venice is a wonderland for restaurants offering card-holder
children, but it can also be very discounts. The pass also offers
tiring for both kids and parents. a reduced-price travelcard for
It is best to invest in family the vaporetti. The Rolling The clock of San Giacomo di Rialto in
passes or boat travel, so you can Venice card is available online San Polo, Venice
hop on and off at will. Limit the at Venezia Unica (see p269),
number of art galleries and or at any vaporetto boarding Time
museums you visit, and opt point in Venice. Italy is 1 hour ahead of
instead for more hands-on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
activities, such as glass-blowing Daylight saving time is between
demonstrations. Seek out the Senior Travellers April and October. For all official
city’s parks and playgrounds – Travellers over 65 years of age purposes, the Italians use the
such as Sant’Elena and are entitled to free entry to 24-hour clock.
Cannaregio, near the Ponte State-run museums and
delle Guglie. In the summer, archaeological sites. In addition,
your kids can play with the local discounted entry fees are Electricity
children on the Lido beaches; available at many locally Electrical current in Italy is 220V
at other times of year, they can managed museums and AC, with two-pin, round-
run around and let off steam historical sites throughout pronged plugs. Most hotels
in the neighbourhood squares. the Veneto. Photographic graded above three stars have
identification, such as electrical points for shavers
a passport or driver’s (check the voltage first) and
licence, needs to be hairdryers in all bedrooms.
shown upon entry as
proof of age.
Like its younger “Rolling” Conversion Chart
version, the Venezia Unica Imperial to Metric
city pass is a good pass to 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
purchase, as it offers 1 foot = 30 centimetres
information on Venice’s 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
sights and transport 1 ounce = 28 grams
savings as well as free 1 pound = 454 grams
entry to the Casino di 1 pint = 0.6 litres
Venezia (see p260). 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
It is available from Hello
Venezia, and the main Metric to Imperial
vaporetto stops. 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
If you are planning to 1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
do a fair amount of train 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
travel while in the 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
Veneto, you might want 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
Students relaxing in the sun in Verona to consider purchasing 1 litre = 1.8 pints
Responsible Tourism
Italy is very aware of ethical and
environmental issues. There are
many projects to help its citizens
live more sustainably and there
are also steps visitors can take
to enjoy the Veneto responsibly.
It should be easy to recycle as
every town operates a raccolta
differenziata (separate waste
collection), with individual
containers for glass, paper
and plastic.
Organic, Fairtrade and local Fruit and vegetables stalls at Rialto market
food is widely accessible in the
Veneto. A range of organic shop that stocks everything direct from growers on the
products are available at the from tofu and wholewheat island of Sant’Erasmo, who
many Coop supermarkets pasta to incense and natural deliver by boat.
dotted around the region; they cosmetics. In addition to the Buy your souvenirs at local
stock Fairtrade items too. Venice famous Rialto markets (see artisan workshops, which help
also has the Rialto Biocenter p104), where you can buy fruit, the community maintain the
supermarket. Located in the vegetables and fish, farmers’ skills needed to make these
vicinity of the Rialto Bridge in markets and organic fairs are regional products. Venice is
San Polo, the Biocenter is a held regularly at Piazzale Roma. known in particular for hand-
modestly sized health-food Some resident groups buy blown glass.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Ministero degli Venice Tourist Board Travellers with
Consulates Affari Esteri Piazza San Marco 1. Special Needs
Australia ∑ esteri.it/visti Map 7 B2. Piazzale Roma.
Map 1 B5. Ferrovia Santa Venezia Unica
Via Antonio Bosio 5, UK Tel 041 274 81 44.
Rome 00198. Lucia. Map 1 B4. Tel 041
Foreign and 529 87 11 (for all offices). ∑ veneziaunica.it/en/
Tel 06 852 721.
Commonwealth Office. ∑ turismovenezia.it content/visit-venice-0
∑ italy.embassy.gov.au
∑ gov.uk/foreign-
Canada Verona Tourist Board Student Travellers
travel-advice
Piazza Cavour 3, Milan Via degli Alpini 9.
20121. Tel 02 626 942 38. US Tel 045 806 86 80. International Student
∑ italy.gc.ca US Department of State. ∑ turismoverona.eu Identity Card (ISIC)
∑ travel.state.gov ∑ isic.org
New Zealand Vicenza Tourist Board
Via Clitunno 44, Rome Piazza dei Signori 8.
Senior Travellers
00198. Tel 06 853 7501. Tel 044 432 08 54.
∑ nzembassy.com/ Customs ∑ vicenzae.org Carta d’Argento
italy Information ∑ trenitalia.com
Admission Prices
United Kingdom Agenzia delle Dogane
Via San Paolo 7, Milan Venezia Unica
Responsible
∑ agenziadogane.it
20121. Tel 02 72 30 01. Tel 041 24 24.
Tourism
∑ gov.uk/government/ Tourist ∑ veneziaunica.it Coop
world/italy Information Piazzale Roma.
United States Opening Hours Map 1 B5.
Via Principe ENIT UK Tel 041 296 06 21.
Chorus
Amedeo 2/10, 1 Princes St, London W1B ∑ e-coop.it
Tel 041 275 04 62.
Milan 20121. 2AY. Tel 020 7408 1254.
∑ chorusvenezia.org Rialto Biocenter
Tel 02 290 351. ∑ enit.it
∑ italy.usembassy.gov Un Ospite di Venezia Calle della Regina, Santa
ENIT USA ∑ unospitedivenezia.it Croce 2264. Map 2 F5.
Visas and Tel 212 245 56 18. Tel 041 523 95 15.
Passports ∑ italiantourism.com Travelling with ∑ rialtobiocenter.it
Padua Tourist Board
Children
Australia Sant’Erasmo Growers
Department of Foreign Railway station. Italy Family Hotels Tel 041 528 29 97.
Affairs and Trade. Tel 049 201 00 80. ∑ italyfamilyhotels. ∑ isaporidisanterasmo.
∑ smartraveller.gov.au ∑ turismopadova.it it/en com
Personal Security and Health

Venice is one of the safest cities in Europe, and visitors are drivers, who may not be
unlikely to encounter any unpleasant situations. Violent crime insured and almost invariably
is very rare, and petty crime is minimal in comparison with overcharge. Airports are their
favourite haunts.
other main urban centres. Nevertheless, it is wise to take a
few simple precautions, particularly against pickpockets, both
in Venice and throughout the Veneto. Always leave valuables In an Emergency
and important documents in the hotel safe, and carry only In the event of an emergency,
the minimum amount of money necessary for the day. call 112 or 113 to get hold of
Make sure you take out adequate travel insurance before the Soccorso Pubblico (public
assistance). Dialling 115 alerts
leaving for Italy, as it is very difficult to obtain once you the Vigili del Fuoco (fire
are in the country. brigade). If you are in need
of urgent medical attention,
attract the attention of go to the Pronto Soccorso
pickpockets and bag-snatchers (emergency) department of the
by having your bag unzipped, nearest main hospital. There are
particularly at railway stations, often queues, so be prepared to
markets and on public trans- wait. Doctors and hospital staff
port. In Venice, take care while in tourist localities usually speak
waiting at the vaporetto landing at least some English.
stages, and be especially vigilant If you need an Ambulanza
when people are jostling to get (ambulance), phone 118. In
on board. On crowded boats, Venice, this will get you an
hold your handbag or rucksack ambulance boat; in the
in front of you. Dolomites, you will be
Rented cars and vehicles with connected to the Soccorso
Two Venetian polizia on the Riva foreign number plates are Alpino (mountain rescue).
degli Schiavoni favourite targets of car thieves. If necessary, a helicopter will
Always lock the car before you be sent. If you do not speak
Police leave it, and never leave Italian, use simple English to
The vigili urbani, or municipal valuables on display inside. explain where you are and
police, are most often seen in Venice is fairly uneventful what the problem is.
the streets regulating traffic and after dark, and you can All towns have a Guardia
enforcing local laws. Their generally stroll through the Medica service, with a doctor
uniform is blue in winter and streets without any threat. There on duty for urgent problems at
white in summer. The is no red-light quarter or any night-time and weekends. Ask
carabinieri, with red striped area that could be described as the tourist office for the relevant
trousers, are the armed military unsavoury, though the beaches phone numbers. In tourist
police, responsible for public are best avoided at night. resorts, the Guardia Medica is
law and order. The polizia, or Women alone in Venice are generally available on site and
state police, wear blue uniforms unlikely to encounter anything 24 hours a day in season.
with white belts and berets. more troublesome
They specialize in serious than the Latin roving
crimes. Any of these forces eye; however, in the
should be able to help you evening it is best to
in an emergency. stick to well-trodden
In the event of theft, go to and well-lit routes.
the nearest questura (police Elsewhere in the
station) and make a statement. Veneto, particularly
If there is a language problem, in the less touristy
consult your nearest consulate towns, unescorted Police boat
(see p271). females are likely
to attract
more attention.
What to be Aware of Make sure you
Always keep your valuables and take only official
personal documents in a safe taxis, which have
place when travelling. It is also the licence number
wise to keep a photocopy of all clearly displayed
vital papers, including your (see p287). Avoid
passport, separately. Try not to unauthorized taxi Ambulance boat
Lost and Stolen Property enough supplies or a prescription DIRECTORY

If you lose anything valuable, including the generic name of
such as your passport, contact the medication – pharmacies Police
your consulate at once (see can usually distribute the local Questura
p271). Items lost on public equivalent. Many of the words Venice: Fondamenta di S Chiara,
transport in Venice and Mestre for minor complaints and Santa Croce 500. Map 1 B5.
end up at the ACTV Oggetti remedies are similar in Italian, Tel 041 271 55 11.
Rinvenuti offices – the one in for example aspirina (aspirin), Padua: Piazzetta G Palatucci 5.
Piazzale Roma is for items left tranquillante (tranquillizer), and Tel 049 83 31 11.
on the vaporetti, the one in lassativo (laxative). Verona: Lungadige Galtarossa 11.
Mestre is for items lost on buses. Dentists are expensive in Italy. Tel 045 809 04 11.
There are no railway lost You can find the nearest one in Vicenza: Viale Mazzini 213.
property offices, so if you leave the Yellow Pages, under Dentisti Tel 044 433 75 11.
anything on a train, contact the medici chirurghi, or ask your
lost property office – Oggetti hotel receptionist to give you In an Emergency
Rinvenuti – in the nearest town. a recommendation. General Emergency
In the event of stolen (Soccorso Pubblico)
property, go to the nearest Tel 112 or 113.
questura (police station; see Minor Hazards
Fire (Vigili del Fuoco)
Police) to make a statement. Inoculations are not needed Tel 115.
Take your passport with you for the Veneto, but it is wise to
Ambulance (Ambulanza)
for identification purposes. take high-factor sunscreen,
Tel 118.
especially if you plan on
travelling in spring or summer. Lost and Stolen
Insect repellent is a must in the Property
summer, as mosquitoes can be
irksome in Venice. An electric ACTV Oggetti Rinvenuti
gadget, available from 1st Floor, Garage Comunale,
pharmacies or department Piazzale Roma. Map 5 B1.
stores, will repel insects in your Tel 041 272 21 79. Via Martiri della
room for up to 12 hours. Libertà, Mestre. Tel 041 272 27 23.
Sign for a pharmacy in Venice Tap water is safe to drink, as is Oggetti Rinvenuti
the water from fountains, unless Venice: Tel 041 274 82 25.
Hospitals and Pharmacies a sign warns that it is non Padua: Tel 049 820 49 25.
Standards of health care in Italy potabile (undrinkable). Verona: Tel 045 805 78 81.
are on a par with those in the UK Vicenza: Tel 044 422 10 30.
and the US. Should you need a
doctor, ask your concierge or Travel and Health Hospitals
look in the Yellow Pages, under Insurance Venice: Campo Santi Giovanni e
Medici. If you have a serious Visitors from the EU are entitled Paolo. Map 3 C5. Tel 041 529 43 11.
medical complaint or allergy, to reciprocal state medical care Padua: Via Giustiniani 2.
it might be wise to bring a letter, in Italy. Before you travel, obtain a Tel 049 821 11 11.
preferably translated, from your European Health Insurance Card Verona: Piazzale Stefani 1.
doctor at home. Most doctors in (EHIC), from the post office or Tel 045 812 11 11.
the region speak some English. online, which covers you for Vicenza: Via Rodolfi 37.
Tel 044 475 31 11.
Pharmacies (farmacie) are emergency medical treatment.
generally open 9am–12:30pm You may wish to take out Pharmacies
and 4–7:30pm Monday–Friday, additional medical insurance
and 9am–noon on Saturdays. All as the EHIC does not cover Venice: Campo SS Filippo e
towns offer a 24-hour pharmacy repatriation costs. Giacomo, Castello.
service (farmacia di turno), with Australia also has a reciprocal Map 6 F1. Tel 041 522 06 75.
a night-time and Sunday rota. medical agreement with Italy, Padua: Via Daniele Manin, 67.
You will find the rota posted on but other visitors from outside Tel 049 875 83 63.
the doors of all pharmacies. the EU should take out a Verona: Piazza delle Erbe 20.
Opening times can also be found comprehensive medical Tel 045 800 62 64.
in the local newspapers or, if insurance policy. For claims, Vicenza: Corso Santi Felice e
you are in Venice, in the booklet make sure you keep all receipts Fortunato 117. Tel 044 432 59 18.
Un Ospite di Venezia (see p271). for medical treatment and any
Italian pharmacists are well medicines prescribed.
Dentists
trained to deal with minor Purchasing additional travel Venice: Tel 041 522 81 37.
ailments and can sell many drugs insurance before leaving home Padua: Tel 049 872 16 38.
without needing a doctor’s is recommended. If you intend Verona: Tel 045 803 46 88.
prescription. If you are taking to do any winter sports you will Vicenza: Tel 044 456 49 80.
prescribed medication, take need extra cover.
Banking and Local Currency

Visitors to the Veneto have a number of options available unauthorized payments will
to them for changing money. Banks tend to give more then be refused. Keep a copy
favourable rates than bureaux de change, hotels and travel of your credit card number in
a safe place, separate from the
agents, but the paperwork is usually more time-consuming. actual card, in case of loss.
Alternatively, you can use a credit card for purchasing goods Prepaid credit cards are also
and services. If using a debit card, check with your bank about a safe option.
fees for overseas withdrawals before departing from home. Travellers’ cheques are another
safe way to carry money. They
are still accepted at leading
in Venice is the Cassa di exchange offices, though these
Risparmio di Venezia. may charge hefty commissions
Bureaux de change stay open to convert them into currency.
longer and work seven days a
week. The exchange offices at
Venice’s Stazione Venezia Santa ATMs
Lucia (see p280), Marco Polo Most banks have an ATM
Airport and Antonio Canova (bancomat) that will accept
Airport at Treviso (see p279), debit and major credit cards
stay open until the evening (Visa, MasterCard and American
and at weekends. Express). Cash dispensers will
Exchange rates vary from be located throughout the
place to place, but banks usually main cities. Instructions are
offer the best deal. Some hotels given in different languages.
also offer a currency exchange You will need to enter your
The waiting area of a bank in Vicenza service; rates tend to be poor, personal PIN number for a cash
but the commission is modest. withdrawal. Be aware that a
Banks and Bureaux If you need to have money percentage charge will usually
de Change sent to you in Italy, banks in be applied by your home
It is a good idea to acquire your home country can wire bank for this service.
some euros before you arrive money to an Italian bank, but Always take precautions to
in Italy. Changing foreign this can take up to a week. ensure that your PIN number
currency at a bank can be a For a swifter money-transfer remains a secret, and make sure
frustrating process because it service, try Travelex, the Italian nobody is looking over your
involves endless form-filling and agent for Western Union. shoulder as you type it in when
queuing. You must apply first using an ATM.
at the window displaying the
Credit and Debit Cards
cambio sign, then move to the DIRECTORY
cassa to obtain your euros. If in Credit cards are widely accepted
doubt, ask a member of staff in throughout Italy and can be Banks and Bureaux
order to avoid waiting in the very useful, particularly for hotel de Change
wrong queue. and restaurant bills, shopping, Cassa di Risparmio
For security reasons, most car hire, booking tickets by di Venezia
banks have electronic double telephone and emergency Campo Manin, San Marco.
doors with metal detectors, situations. Visa, MasterCard and Map 7 A2.
allowing only one person in at American Express are the most Tel 041 529 24 39.
a time. Metal objects and bags popular. Be aware that most
Travelex
should first be deposited in credit cards levy a surcharge on
Riva del Ferro, Rialto,
lockers situated in the foyer. overseas transactions. Some San Marco 5126. Map 7 A1.
Press the button to open the establishments require a Tel 041 528 73 58.
outer door, step in and wait minimum expenditure to ∑ travelex.it
for it to close behind you. accept credit card payment,
The inner door will then so always make sure that you Credit and Debit Cards
open automatically. have enough cash just in case.
Banks are usually open from To avoid your card being For lost or stolen cards:
8:30am–1:30pm Monday to unnecessarily blocked, notify American Express
Friday. Most also open for an your bank of your travel plans Tel 06 7290 0347.
hour in the afternoon. They are before you set off. If your credit MasterCard
closed at weekends and public card is lost or stolen, contact the Tel 800 870 866 (freephone).
holidays, and they also close relevant emergency telephone Visa
early the day before a major number immediately. The card Tel 800 819 014 (freephone).
holiday. One of the main banks will be blocked, and any
The Euro phased out by March 2002. EU countries, each one including
The euro (€) is the common members using the euro as their designs of fictional architectural
currency of the European Union. sole official currency are known structures. The coins, however,
It came into general circulation as the Eurozone. Several EU have one side identical (the value
on 1 January 2002, initially for members have opted out of side) and one side with an image
12 participating countries, joining this common currency. unique to each country. Notes
including Italy. The previous Euro notes are identical and coins are exchangeable in
Italian currency, the lira, was throughout the Eurozone each participating country.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey
in colour) is the smallest, followed
by the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note (green),
€200 note (yellow) and €500 note
(purple). All notes show the 12
stars of the European Union. €5 note
€10 note
€20 note
€50 note
€100 note
€200 note
€500 note
€2 coin €1 coin 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents
and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
Communications and Media

Although there are still plenty of public telephones
Reaching the
throughout the Veneto, mobile phone networks are far-
Right Number
reaching, efficient and relatively low priced. Most hotels offer
an Internet or Wi-Fi service to their guests; if not, Internet To ring Italy from the UK and
Ireland, dial 00 39 then the
points are easy to find in the region, even in small towns. number, including the full area
Foreign-language newspapers and magazines are on sale in code. From the US and Canada
all cities and main towns, and satellite TV has a vast range of dial 0 11 39, and from Australia
foreign-language programmes from around the world. There dial 00 11 39.
are post offices located in all towns and villages for buying • Dialling code for
stamps and sending letters and parcels. Venice 041
Verona 045
Vicenza 0444
Padua 049
Treviso 0422
• International directory
enquiries 176
• International operator
assistance 170
• Telegrams and cables in
Italy and abroad 186
• See also In an Emergency,
p273.
priced prepaid phonecards can

be used for long-distance calls
from a mobile (see International
Telephones in a call centre run by Venetian Navigator and Local Telephone Calls).
Alternatively, you might want
International and Local Any Italian number must be to consider purchasing an
Telephone Calls prefixed by its full area code Italian mobile phone or a SIM
A wide range of phonecards (including the “0”), even if it is a card through one of the major
(carte telefoniche prepagate) are local number. Similarly, do not companies such as TIM, Wind
available at newsagents and drop the “0” from in front of the and Vodafone. You will need
tobacconists (tabacchi). The latter area code when dialling an to show your passport for
are easily recognized thanks to Italian number from abroad. The identification. Take note that
the black-and-white “T” sign they only numbers that do not to activate your SIM card you
display. For making local and require the “0” are those for the will need to make a short call
Italian calls, the best option is a emergency services (see p273), to a landline or another mobile
Telecom card; simply remove the mobile phones (which start phone, and that the cards
dotted corner before inserting it with a “3”) and toll-free numbers usually expire 12 months after
into the phone. For overseas (which begin with an “8”). the last top-up.
calls, specify the country you will
be calling, so the vendor can
advise you on the best card. Mobile Phones Public Telephones
To use these, call the toll-free Mobile phones are extremely You can find the silver-and-
number displayed on the card, useful when travelling abroad. If orange Telecom public telephones
enter the bar code information, you have a tri-band/GSM phone on the streets and squares of all
then proceed with the overseas it should work in Italy, the main towns in the
number. A recording will tell you but check with your Veneto, as well as at
how much credit is left before mobile provider that railway and bus stations.
each call. These cards expire this is the case before In Venice there are
three months after the first call you leave. Your hand- public telephones at
you make. set will need to have most vaporetto landing
If you opt to use the phone in “roaming” activated in stages and in privately
your hotel room, ask beforehand order to use it abroad owned call centres.
about the charges, which tend and be aware that you Coin-operated phones
to be steep. A cheaper option will be charged extra have virtually been
is to use the privately owned for making and phased out in favour
call centres that are scattered receiving calls while of phones that take
around main cities. away. Reasonably Tabacchi sign phonecards.
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
TIM
Rio Terà San Leonardo,
Cannaregio 1412–1412/b, Venice.
Map 2 E3. Tel 041 244 00 96.
Vodafone
Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3683,
Venice. Map 3 A5.
Tel 041 243 17 97.
Computer terminals at an Internet café Wind
Rio Terà dela Maddalena,
Internet and Email declaration form. Small items Cannaregio 2105, Venice.
Across the Veneto, Wi-Fi or can be sent in a padded Map 2 F3. Tel 041 261 06 54.
Internet points are available in envelope. The postal system
most hotels although a time- offers a well-priced tracked Internet and Email
related fee may be charged. courier service, Paccocelere,
Internet cafés are found in for sending packages both Padua WiFi
every city and most small within Italy and overseas. ∑ padovawifi.it
towns. The main ones in Venice For a rapid worldwide Planet Wind Internet
are Planet Internet Wind and delivery, consider a private
Rio Terà San Leonardo,
Tabaccheria 42. Wi-Fi is courier. Both DHL and UPS have
available in many outdoor bases in Venice and the Veneto. Cannaregion 1519.
spaces in Venice and Padua for a Map 2 D3. Tel 041 099 41 86.
fee; Verona Smart City offers Tabaccheria 42
free internet access all over the Newspapers and
Magazines Calle Lunga Santa Maria
city centre. You can access these Formosa, Castello 2843.
Wi-Fi services through the The local daily newspapers Il
Map 7 C1. Tel 041 528 91 69.
Venezia Unica card, Padua WiFi Gazzettino and La Nuova Venezia
or, if in Verona, by downloading have separate editions for Venezia Unica
the app and registering. Padua, Venice, Verona and ∑ veneziaunica.it
Vicenza as well as covering
Verona Smart City
national and some international
∑ veronasmartcity.com
news. Local event listings can
be found in the dailies, in
handouts at the Venice tourist
Postal Service
offices and also in Carnet Verona DHL
Post Office sign (see p268). European and US c/o Novotour, Garage Comunale
newspapers and magazines
Postal Service such as the Guardian and Time,
496/f/g, Piazzale Roma, Venice.
Map 1 B5. Tel 199 19 93 45.
In summer, post sent from Venice are available at large
∑ dhl.it
to destinations abroad takes newsagents (such as those
some time to arrive, as thousands found at main railway stations) a Post Offices
of postcards are sent from the day or two after publication. Padua: Corso Garibaldi 25.
city every day. For important Tel 049 877 22 09.
communications, use the Posta Venice: Calle San Salvador, San
Prioritaria (priority mail) or ask for Television and Radio
Marco 5016. Map 7 B1.
a Raccomandata (registered In Italy there are three state TV
Tel 041 240 41 49.
post), which can be traced. channels – Rai 1, Rai 2 and Rai 3 –
Stamps (francobolli) are and a myriad of private channels. Verona: Piazza Isolo 13.
available from post offices and Satellite and cable TV transmit Tel 045 805 03 49.
tobacconists. Post office hours foreign channels such as CNN in Vicenza: Contrà Garibaldi 1.
are usually 8:30am–1:30pm English and BBC World Service Tel 044 454 44 49.
Monday to Friday (but main city in many languages. ∑ poste.it
offices close at 6pm) and The main radio stations, also
UPS
8:30am–12:30pm on Saturdays. run by Rai, are Radio 1, Radio 2
Large items to be sent abroad and Radio 3. The frequencies c/o Brusato Trasporti, Barbaria
must be in a rigid cardboard vary depending on where you delle Tole, Castello 6344, Venice.
box, which can be purchased at are in the Veneto and if you have Map 4 D5. Tel 041 528 99 82.
most post offices. You will also a digital or analogue radio. Visit ∑ ups.com
need to fill in a customs www.raiway.it for more details.
GETTING TO VENICE
AND THE VENETO
The easiest way to reach the Veneto is Lake Garda. The Italian rail network is
by air. Direct flights link Venice to other far-reaching, and both Venice and
major European cities, and there are Verona train stations have excellent links
several intercontinental flights available with all the other Veneto towns and major
too, although visitors travelling from European cities. Car drivers must bear in
outside Europe must transfer at Milan or mind toll charges on European motorways
Rome. Venice’s Marco Polo Airport, located and heavy traffic. Visitors to Venice itself
10 km (6.5 miles) north of the city, is will have to leave their cars in one of the
supplemented by smaller airports at large car parks on the outskirts of the city,
Treviso, 40 km (29 miles) northwest of because cars are not allowed in the
Venice, and Verona, which is useful for centre. Parking fees are high.
during July and August.

Remember to have a credit
card to hand when booking
online. If you wish to book a
flight during your stay in the
Veneto, travel agents such
as Bucintoro Viaggi offer
a good service.
For visitors who prefer the
convenience of a package
holiday, Venice is either offered
as a single destination or as
part of a two- or three-city
holiday alongside Florence
and Rome. Taking a package
holiday with a tour operator
may be less costly than going
View of the lagoon from Venice’s Marco Polo Airport independently. It is always
worth comparing the costs,
Arriving by Air stopover of choice for many however, particularly if you
Venice is served by two airports: travellers from Australia and Asia intend to travel off-season,
Marco Polo at Campalto, which on long-haul flights. when charter flights are at their
is the closest to the city, and Most charter flights operate to cheapest. Transfers from the
Antonio Canova at Treviso, Antonio Canova Airport, as does airport are usually included
a short distance inland. These the low-cost airline Ryanair. in the price of the holiday.
airports receive both low-cost Valerio Catullo Airport is In the Veneto, most tour
and commercial flights from 12 km (7.5 miles) west of Verona. operators tend to concentrate
cities in the United Kingdom It is perfectly placed for visitors on Venice alone, though
and other European countries. to Lake Garda and the Dolomites. some offer packages to
Direct flights from the UK to Alitalia and low-cost airlines, Verona or tours of the wider
Venice are operated by British such as Ryanair, have regularly region, taking in the most
Airways, easyJet and Jet2, scheduled flights to Verona. popular villas, museums
whereas the national Italian and art galleries.
carrier Alitalia flies via Rome.
Few intercontinental flights Tickets and Fares
operate, but it is possible to fly The best deals on tickets are On Arrival
direct from New York to Venice usually found on the Internet. Passengers on flights originating
with Delta Airlines. Visitors from However, these offers are within the EU do not need
outside Europe can take a flight usually only available to those to pass through customs.
to London, Amsterdam, who book well in advance and Intercontinental flight
Frankfurt or Paris and connect avoid travelling over the peak passengers need to have both
to Venice or Treviso from there. periods: Christmas, New Year their passports and visas
Emirates also flies to Marco Polo and Easter, as well as the ready to show staff. For visa
Airport from Dubai, which is the European school holidays information, see p268.
GETTING TO VENICE AND THE VENETO  279
vehicle decks from several

ports in Greece most months
of the year. A grand way
to travel, the Istrian peninsula
and the Dalmatian coast are
linked to Venice through the
summer by fast catamarans
and ferries run by operators
such as Venezia Lines, Atlas
and Commodore Cruises.
Venice is also a key port
for state-of-the-art cruise ships
bound for the Mediterranean.
Companies stopping here
A vaporetto boarding point along the Grand Canal include P&O Cruises and
MSC Crociere.
Marco Polo Airport Antonio Canova Both ferries and cruise
(Venice) Airport (Treviso) ships dock at Venezia
The facilities available at Marco This small but modern airport Terminal Passeggeri, a large
Polo Airport include a tourist receives low-cost flights from terminal near Tronchetto that
information kiosk, hotel cities in the UK and other spreads along the lagoon
reservation service, car-hire European countries. It has and canalside from the Stazione
offices, post office, self-service a tourist information office, Marittima basin to Santa Marta
restaurant and currency foreign exchange and cafés. and San Basilio. Most of the
exchange office. From the airport the ATVO six terminal sections have full
The most exciting entry from bus goes to Piazzale Roma (€12, passenger facilities, including
the airport in to Venice is by 70 minutes), while the faster cafés, ATMs, duty-free shops,
vaporetto. Alilaguna operate Barzi bus as far as Tronchetto waiting halls and various
vaporetti terminal routes that (40 minutes) for the same price. information points.
travel to Venice, Murano and the Or, you can take the No. 6 public An automated people
Lido, departing regularly from bus (€1.30), which runs to Treviso mover carries passengers from
6:10am to around midnight daily. station, from where there is a the central part of the terminal
The journey to Venice takes regular train service to Venice. to Piazzale Roma in minutes.
about an hour; tickets start at However, it is usually more
€15 per person, depending on convenient to travel by
your destination, and are available Valerio Catullo the shuttle buses that are
from the boarding point on the Airport (Verona) provided by the individual
quayside, a short stroll away. Verona airport receives flights cruise companies as they
The vaporetto stops at several from cities in the UK, other pull up at boarding points.
landing stages, including San European countries and Africa. Santa Marta and San Basilio
Marco, San Zaccaria and The bus service to Verona town are served by ACTV vaporetto
Fondamente Nuove. Water taxis centre, which links up with sched- line No. 6, which terminates
operating from the airport to uled flights, costs about €5. In at the Lido.
San Marco take about half the summer there is usually a direct Cruise ships are a cause
time but will cost around €120. minibus to points on Lake Garda. of heated debate in Venice.
There is also a €20 surcharge at Critics claim that they cause
night. Beware of water-taxi environmental damage and
touts, who will charge you Arriving by Sea UNESCO has called on the city
more than the official fare. Minoan Lines and Anek run of Venice to ban the ships
The less spectacular – but large ferries with cabins and from the city centre from 2017.
quicker and cheaper – alter-
native to the lagoon crossing
is by an ATVO bus to Piazzale
Roma. This service meets all
scheduled flights and costs €8.
For the same cost you can catch
the ACTV public bus No. 5 to
Piazzale Roma, which departs
every 30 minutes and makes
several stops along the way.
There is also a land taxi rank in
front of the airport. The journey
takes 15 minutes, and the drop-
off point is Piazzale Roma. Cruise ship moored at Venezia Terminal Passeggeri
London will have to change Orient Express

in Paris or Ostend. Fast intercity Operating between March
trains link Venice with Verona, and November, the Venice
Bologna, Milan, Rome and other Simplon-Orient-Express
major Italian cities. travels between London
If the ticket office is closed, and Venice, stopping at Paris,
it is possible to purchase train Innsbruck and Verona en route.
tickets from the automatic A one-way journey with cabin
machines in the station. They from London to Venice is the
display instructions in six ultimate romantic experience,
languages and accept notes, but it can cost as much as
coins and some credit cards. 10 times the price of a
Electronic display screens give low-cost flight. Prices are
up-to-date information on more reasonable for a return
arrivals and departures, as trip. Visit the website for
An electronic ticket machine at a vaporetto well as notice of any delays. further information.
stop on the Grand Canal Facilities include a tourist
information office, hotel
Arriving by Coach reservation service, telephones,
Long-distance regional and bank, currency exchange
international coaches use Piazzale office, left-luggage storage, self-
Roma as their terminus in Venice. service restaurant and café, and
Regular lines run by SITA link a shop that sells international Orient-Express logo
Venice with Padua, while services newspapers and magazines.
run by Dolomiti Bus travel to Just below the steps of the Arriving by Car
various localities in the Dolomite station are vaporetti landing To drive your own car in Italy
Mountains. For Europe-wide stages with lines to all parts of you will need an international
routes, try Eurolines, which offers the city. There are also water Green Card and your vehicle
a good-value multi-day pass and taxis, a gondola service and registration documents. Also,
pick-ups from Piazzale Roma, porters. The bus and coach check that your car insurance
or the slightly more costly terminal and the land taxi covers you to drive abroad. EU
Busabout, with similar routes rank are located in Piazzale nationals who do not have the
but pick-ups outside Venice. Roma, a short walk away. standard pink-coloured driving
Tickets can be purchased at the Trenitalia offers reduced- licence will need an Italian
office in Piazzale Roma or online price tickets for travel through- translation of their licence,
in advance of your travels. out Italy and Europe if you buy available from most Italian
them in advance online. Europe- tourist offices. UK drivers do not
wide train passes such as Eurail require a translation; however,
Arriving by Train (no age limit) and InterRail those with an old paper licence
The Stazione Venezia Santa (for those under 26 years of age) will need to carry additional
Lucia, Venice’s railway station, are accepted; however, you photo ID, such as a passport.
is a modern, well-equipped will have to pay a supplement Requirements for visitors from
station located at the western to travel on the fast trains. non-EU countries vary; check
end of the Grand Canal. Santa The German DB Bahn and the with your insurance company.
Lucia is the terminus for trains Austrian OEBB also provide rail The toll-paying A4
from Paris, Munich, Innsbruck, links between Venice, Verona, autostrada (motorway)
Vienna, Geneva, Zurich and Munich and Innsbruck. Tickets links Turin to Venice via
other European cities. for these services can be Padua, Verona and Vicenza –
Passengers travelling from purchased online or on board. simply take the relevant exit
for your destination. The
A27 from Venice leads north
beyond Vittorio Veneto
towards the Dolomites.
In Venice, parking is difficult
and prohibitively expensive.
The closest car parks to the city
centre are at Piazzale Roma
or on the Tronchetto, linked
to Venice by vaporetto and bus.
There are cheaper car parks
at Fusina and San Giuliano,
near Mestre (see City Map).
For information on Italian
Eurostar train travelling through the countryside in the Veneto road rules, see p287.
GETTING TO VENICE AND THE VENETO  281
Car Hire
All the major international car-
hire companies, such as Hertz,
Avis and Europcar, have offices
in the Veneto, both at airports
and at the main train stations.
It is worth doing an online search
to find the best price or, if you
fly with a low-cost carrier, check
out the deals they offer. Always
make sure that quoted prices
include collision damage waiver,
theft protection, unlimited Vaporetto boarding point and water-taxi rank at Stazione Venezia Santa Lucia
mileage, a breakdown service
and Imposta sul Valore Aggiunto of fuel, so try to refill it before to your hotel. Porters
(Value Added Tax; see p269). returning the car to avoid (portabagagli) are very
To hire a car you must be over inflated costs. Child seats need expensive; not only do you
25 and have held a licence for at to be booked in advance. have to pay their boat fare,
least a year. You will also need to you must also pay for each
show your passport and a credit item of luggage, which are
card. Visitors from outside the Porters in Venice charged an adult fare. In
EU need an international Unless you are staying very addition to the vaporetto fares,
licence, though not all hire close to your arrival point, you the cost of a porter handling
firms insist on this. Vehicles are will need to take a vaporetto two suitcases could easily
usually supplied with a full tank to the boarding point nearest amount to €40.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Tickets and Fares Venezia Lines Trenitalia
∑ venezialines.com Tel 89 20 21. Disabled
Alitalia Bucintoro Viaggi Passengers: Tel 199 303
Tel 89 20 10. Campo S Luca, San Marco Venezia Terminal
060. ∑ trenitalia.com
∑ alitalia.com 4267/c, Venice. Map 7 A2. Passeggeri
Tel 041 521 06 32. ∑ vtp.it Venice Simplon-
Antonio Canova ∑ bucintoro Orient-Express
Airport (Treviso) viaggi.com Arriving by ∑ belmond.com
Tel 042 231 51 11. Coach
∑ trevisoairport.it Transport from Car Hire
the Airport Busabout
British Airways
∑ busabout.com Venice
Tel 02 6963 3602. ACTV Avis: Tel 041 523 73 77.
∑ britishairways.com Tel 041 24 24. ∑ actv.it Dolomiti Bus
∑ avisautonoleggio.it
∑ dolomitibus.it
Delta Airlines Alilaguna Europcar: Tel 041 523 86
Tel 02 3859 1451. Tel 041 240 17 01. Eurolines 16. ∑ europcar.it
∑ delta.com ∑ alilaguna.it ∑ eurolines.com Hertz: Tel 041 528 40 91.
∑ hertz.com
easyJet ATVO SITA
∑ easyjet.com Tel 042 594 36 72. ∑ sitabus.it Padua
∑ atvo.it Avis: Tel 049 864 7661.
Emirates Arriving by Europcar: Tel 049 65 78 77.
Tel 02 9148 3383. Arriving by Sea Train Hertz: Tel 049 875 22 02.
∑ emirates.com
Adriatic Lines DB Bahn Verona
Jet2
∑ adriatic-lines.com ∑ bahn.de Avis: Tel 045 800 66 36.
∑ jet2.com
Europcar: Tel 045 927
Anek Eurail
Marco Polo ∑ anekitalia.com
3161.
∑ eurail.com
Airport (Venice) Hertz: Tel 045 800 08 32.
Tel 041 260 92 60. Atlas InterRail
∑ atlas-croatia.com Vicenza
∑ veniceairport.it ∑ interrail.eu
Avis: Tel 044 432 16 22.
Ryanair Minoan Lines OEBB Europcar: Tel 044 428
∑ ryanair.com ∑ minoanlines.it 00 42.
∑ oebb.at
MSC Crociere Hertz: Tel 044 423 17 28.
Valerio Catullo Stazione Venezia
∑crocierissime.it
Airport (Verona) Santa Lucia Porters in Venice
Tel 045 809 56 66. P&O Cruises Map 1 C5.
∑ aeroportoverona.it ∑ pocruises.com Tel 041 78 56 70. Tel 041 71 37 19.
GETTING AROUND VENICE

AND THE VENETO
Venice is a small city, and most of the main vaporetti is more affordable. The boats also
sights can be covered comfortably on foot. travel across the lagoon to the outlying
Cars are not allowed; instead pedestrians islands. For those in a hurry, a water taxi is
stroll the avenues and narrow passageways. the fastest means of travelling across Venice.
To avoid getting lost in the maze of alleys and Day trips to the Veneto can be made by train
squares, use the Street Finder (see pp288– or bus, and most of the cities can easily be
301). The iconic gondola is the most romantic explored on foot. For longer stays, a car
way to see the city from the canals and the is more practical, as it offers complete
lagoon. However, the excellent network of independence to enjoy the countryside.
Green Travel (administrative district) in which congested. An unwritten

Most Venetian motorboats and they fall rather than the street. Venetian rule is to keep to the
ferries run on diesel; however, A typical address might read, for right and avoid stopping on
efforts are under way to switch example, “San Marco 2517” or bridges and in narrow streets.
to a less polluting fuel. At least “Cannaregio 3499”. In order to However, most tourists never
one battery-operated vaporetto locate an address, therefore, it is venture beyond San Marco, so
is in service, and an eco-friendly essential to establish the name it may be little more than a
Alilaguna vaporetto offers trips of the actual street or square or, matter of minutes before you
to and from the airport (see failing that, the nearest landmark. find yourself with only a few
p279). This boat was designed Do not hesitate to ask for locals for company.
to minimize wave damage assistance, as Venetians are You need to allow just
in the canals. very helpful. Translations 45 minutes to cross
Other cities in the Veneto are of Venetian words the city from north
served by large fleets of buses commonly used to south on foot –
powered by clean methane gas. in place names can provided you do
Car-hire companies Hertz and be found on p288. not lose your way,
Europcar (see p281) offer some though that is half
“ecological” vehicles with the fun. The Street
reduced CO2 emissions. Walking Finder and City maps
There are also a number of The absence of traffic in this guide will help you
bicycle tours that operate in the makes exploring An ornate Venetian find your way around.
Veneto. See local tourist offices Venice on foot a door knocker As the city is so
for details. great pleasure. Wear compact, you are
comfortable footwear as a day’s never far from the yellow signs
sightseeing can be tiring. You that give directions to the main
Finding Your Way will have to contend with the sights. Venice has countless
around Venice constant flow of other tourists, campi (squares) that open out
Venice’s system of addresses can especially around San Marco from narrow alleys. Many of
be very confusing. All buildings and Rialto, where the narrow these are equipped with public
are numbered by the sestiere alleys become extremely benches, and weary tourists can
enjoy a drink in an open-air café.
In July and August, when
temperatures are at their
highest, avoid walking in the
middle of the day, unless you
have a broad-rimmed sunhat.
From October there is a risk of
high tides (acqua alta), which
cause flooding across the city,
starting with Piazza San Marco.
Duckboards are laid out in the
square, however, and along
main thoroughfares. If you are
not equipped with Wellington
boots, you can buy cheap
knee-high plastic shoe
A plethora of confusing signs in Cannaregio covers from local shops.
GETTING AROUND VENICE AND THE VENETO  283
Guided Tours
Tours with English-speaking
guides in Venice and the outlying
islands can be booked through
tourist offices and travel agencies
such as Bucintoro Viaggi (see
p281). One popular water tour
takes you down the Grand Canal
in a sleek vaporetto, with running
commentary about the palaces Crossing the Grand Canal by traghetto
en route. Other tours are on foot,
visiting the city’s main posted on the Gondoliers’ Water Taxis
monuments. Costs range from Association website, in the For those with plenty of funds,
€18 to €40 and can be booked booklet Un Ospite di Venezia the fastest means of getting
at the Venetian tourist office (see p271) and at gondola ranks. around Venice is by water taxi.
(see p271). Tours operated by the Official costs are around €80 These sleek motorboats, all
tourist board usually start at the for 30–40 minutes, rising to equipped with a cabin, zip to
main office in Piazza San Marco. €100 from 7pm to 8am, but and from the airport in only
The boat trips begin at various gondoliers are notorious for 30 minutes. There are 16 water-
boarding points, mainly around overcharging. Try bargaining – taxi ranks, including one at the
the San Marco area. during the low season you may Lido and one at Marco Polo
In Verona and Padua, half-day be able to negotiate a fee below Airport. Water-taxi companies
tours are organized by each the official rate and a journey include Consorzio Motoscafi,
town’s tourist office. Boat trips shorter than the minimum Serenissima and Veneziana
along the Brenta Canal between of 30 minutes. Another way Motoscafi. Tariffs are listed in
Venice and Padua (see pp186–7) of cutting costs is to share the booklet Un Ospite di Venezia
are available from March to a gondola – six is the maximum (see p271). There are extra charges
late October. number of passengers. for luggage, waiting, night
Gondoliers all speak a service and for booking a taxi.
smattering of English and have
Gondolas taken basic exams in Venetian
Gondolas are a luxury form of history and art. Do not expect
transport used only by tourists them to burst into “O Sole Mio”,
(apart from Venetians on their however; the most you are
wedding day). There are a likely to hear are low cries
number of gondola ranks of oe (watch out), premi (bear
throughout the city and plenty left) and stai (bear right) – the
of gondoliers in striped shirts warning calls that have been
and beribboned boater hats echoing down the canals of A water taxi
waiting for business on bridges Venice for centuries. If you
and squares. want to go on a serenaded tour, DIRECTORY
Before boarding, check the travel agents regularly organize
official tariffs and agree a price evening flotillas with Gondolas
with the gondolier. Prices are accompanying musicians. Gondola Stands
S. Marco (Molo). Tel 041 520 06 85.
Traghetti Rialto (Riva Carbon).
Tel 041 529 90 28.
Traghetti are gondola ferries
that cross the Grand Canal Railway Station (San Simeone
Piccolo). Tel 041 522 11 51
at eight different points,
providing an invaluable service Gondoliers’ Association
for pedestrians. Surprisingly Tel 041 528 50 75.
few tourists make use of this ∑ gondolavenezia.it
constant service, which costs
€2. The points where the
Water Taxis
traghetti cross the Grand Canal Consorzio Motoscafi
are marked on the Street Finder Tel 041 522 23 03
maps (see pp288–301). Yellow Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri,
street signs show the way to 6pm–9am Sat, Sun & public hols.
the traghetti, illustrated with ∑ motoscafivenezia.it
a little gondola symbol. Most Veneziana Motoscafi
Venetians stand for the ride, but Tel 041 71 69 22.
The romance of an early evening you can sit if need be. Note that ∑ venezianamotoscafi.it
gondola ride services can be sporadic.
Getting Around Venice by Vaporetto

For visitors to Venice, the vaporetti, or water buses, provide an
entertaining form of public transport, although most journeys
within the city can usually be covered just as quickly on foot.
These water buses also supply a useful service connecting
outlying points on the periphery of Venice and a link with the
islands in the lagoon. The main route through the city is the
Grand Canal, and the most useful service from a visitor’s point
of view is the No. 1. This line operates from one end of the Grand
Canal to the other and travels sufficiently slowly for passengers
to admire the parade of palaces at the waterside (see pp60–75).
Sightseeing from a vaporetto on the

The Boats If you only want to cross Grand Canal
The original vaporetti were the Grand Canal, you can
steam-powered motorboats buy a traghetto ticket for Timetables
(vaporetto means “little €2 (see p283). A 75-minute The vaporetti are renowned
steamer”); today they run on vaporetto ticket costs €7.50 for their punctuality, and the
diesel. Although all the boats and allows travel for 1 hour Venetians boast they can set
tend to be called vaporetti, from the time of validation. their watches by them. There
strictly speaking this word There are also 24-hour (€20), is just one timetable, covering
applies only to the large, wide 48-hour (€30) and 72-hour both weekdays and public
boats used on the slow routes, (€40) tickets that entitle holidays. The only restrictions
such as the No. 1. These boats the holder to unlimited travel concern rowing events such
provide the best views. The on most lines and offer better as the Vogalonga (see p37)
motoscafi are the slimmer, value. A one-week pass and the Regata Storica (see p39),
smaller and faster boats, such as costs €60. when services are partially
the No. 5.2. Some of them might IMOB (electronic smart-card) suspended, and the acqua alta
look old and rusty, but they go passes are available from all high-tide flooding, when
at quite a pace. The two-tier ticket offices, such as the ones some lines are limited due
motonavi, which look huge in at Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto to low bridges.
comparison to the vaporetti or and San Marco, as well as from The main routes run from
motoscafi, are used on routes to tobacconists and newsagents around 5am to midnight every
outlying islands and the Lido. displaying the ACTV logo. 10 to 20 minutes. There are also
Reduced-price tickets can three nighttime routes starting
be purchased online through from 11:30pm and running till
Tickets and Fares Venezia Unica. Holders of the about 5am. The N runs every
Tickets for the vaporetti are the Rolling Venice card (see p270) 30 minutes down the Grand
same price irrespective of can buy a Tre Giorni Giovane, Canal from Piazzale Roma to
the length of journey, making or 3-day youth pass, for €22 the Lido. From Fondament
the service very straightforward (see City Map). Nuove there are half-hourly
to use. Moreover, a range of Note that the Alilaguna boats to Murano and hourly
timed tickets and passes (to and from Marco Polo Airport; boats to Burano, Torcello
provides decent savings over see p279), No. 19 (from Chioggia and Punta Sabbioni.
the standard single ticket price, to San Zaccaria) and No. 16 Details of all the vaporetto
especially if purchased in (from Le Zattere to Fusina) lines lines are in the ACTV timetable,
advance online. need separate tickets. available at most boarding
points or online.
DIRECTORY
Tickets and Fares
ACTV
A vaporetto or water bus
Piazzale Roma.
Map 5 B1.
Tel 041 24 24.
∑ actv.it or
∑ veneziaunica.it
The smaller, sleeker motoscafo

The Main Routes

1 This is the slow vaporetto
Using the Vaporetti
down the Grand Canal, The service is run by ACTV (Azienda Consorzio Trasporti
stopping at every boarding Veneziano). The water-bus system is constantly being
point. The route starts at modified, and thus, while every effort is made to keep the
Piazzale Roma and travels map on the inside back cover of this guide up-to-date, it may
the length of the Grand Canal; not reflect the most recent changes. If you are not sure
then, from San Marco, it heads which vaporetto to take to reach your destination, check with
east to the Lido. the boatman – the vaporetti crew tend to be very helpful.
2 The No. 2 is the faster route

down the Grand Canal. The
whole route goes in a loop,
starting at San Zaccaria, Timetable and route at a
continuing westwards along vaporetto boarding point
the Giudecca Canal to Tronchetto
and Piazzale Roma, then down
the Grand Canal back to San
Zaccaria, and from there out
1 Tickets are available at most
boarding points, some bars,
shops and tobacconists
to the Lido (summer only).
displaying the ACTV sign.
The price of a ticket is the
4.1 4.2 Circular “Giracittà” lines
same whether you are
taking in Murano. The No. 4.1 going one stop or doing
travels anticlockwise, while the whole circuit. There are
the No. 4.2 goes clockwise. also a variety of special
tickets available (see Tickets
5.1 5.2 The other “Giracittà” and Fares, opposite).
route, the 5.1 and 5.2 lines
skirt the periphery of Venice
and extend to the Lido. The
No. 5.1 travels anti-clockwise
and the No. 5.2 goes clockwise. 2 Signs on the
boarding point
tell you which
The four circular “Giracittà” routes
provide a scenic tour of Venice. lines stop there.
6 This route is the fast

way to reach the Lido from
Piazzale Roma.
3 Tickets should be swiped
against the automatic
machines on the boarding
points before each
9 The shuttle boat travels
journey. Inspectors travel
between Burano and Torcello, on the vaporetti, and there
running every 15 minutes are steep fines for
from 10am–5pm. passengers without valid
tickets. There are notices
12 Departing from the in English to this effect in
Fondamente Nuove, the 12 all the vaporetti.
line serves the main islands
in the northern lagoon: Murano,
Mazzorbo and Burano, finishing
at Punta Sabbioni. 4 An indicator board
at the front of each
vaporetto gives the
13 The No. 13 leaves from line number and
Fondamente Nuove and main stops. (Ignore
travels to the “garden” islands, the large black
numbers on the
including Vignole and
side of the boat.)
Sant’Erasmo.
5
N The N (nighttime) line Each boarding point has its name clearly marked on a yellow
does a large loop, with regular board. Most stops have two landing stages, and it is quite easy,
stops. From San Marco it heads particularly if it is crowded and you can’t see which way the
along the Giudecca Canal, round vaporetto is facing, to board a boat travelling in the wrong
to Piazzale Roma and down direction. It is helpful to watch which direction the vaporetto is
the Grand Canal past San approaching from; if in doubt, check with the boatman on board.
Marco to the Lido.
Getting Around the Veneto

The Veneto has many famous and historical cities, most of Remember to stamp your ticket
which are a comfortable day trip from Venice by train or bus. in the yellow machines at the
The smaller towns that surround Lake Garda are accessible by entrance to the platform or
local bus, while the city centres of Verona and Padua can be on the platform before
boarding the train.
explored on foot. The public transport networks are excellent Booking is compulsory when
and reasonably priced, discouraging car travel especially as travelling on all of the fast Freccia,
motorways can be congested and tourist traffic is banned in Eurostar and Intercity trains; it is
city centres. Nevertheless, cars are more convenient when also advisable to book in advance
touring the Dolomites. Travelling by taxi is very expensive. on other trains, especially if you
wish to travel at busy times. If you
are travelling less than 200 km
Train Travel centre, which is only a (125 miles) on a regionale (local)
Trenitalia, Italy’s state railway, 10-minute walk away. Padua’s train, ask for a biglietto a fasce
runs an extensive and efficient station houses many facilities chilometriche (short-range ticket).
network throughout the Veneto. including a tourist office, a left- Available from the ticket office,
Trains are regular and mostly luggage office and a bureau de as well as from tobacconists and
punctual, and the cost of travel change. The main bus terminal, newsagents at railway stations,
is reasonable. The variety of train with services to Venice and this ticket is stamped with the
services range from the slow other towns in the Veneto, destination you require. Both
regionale, stopping at almost is adjacent. outward and return portions of
every station en route, through Vicenza, 55 minutes from a ticket must be used within
the various intercity trains to the Venice, is on the main railway three days of purchase. Like all
high-speed Freccia and Eurostar, line between Verona and Padua. other tickets, a biglietto a fasce
which link Venice with Verona The station is a 5-minute chilometriche must be validated
and beyond. Reduced fares are stroll south of the city centre, by inserting it in one of the
available if you book in advance and services here include left yellow machines at the entrance
online; otherwise tickets are luggage, ticket offices, to the platforms.
available at stations. There are tourist information and All tickets can be purchased on
facilities for disabled travellers currency exchange. the Trenitalia website, often with
on intercity services (see p281). good discounts if booked well
ahead of the travel date.
Tickets and Fares
Main Train Stations Main train stations have both
For information on Venice’s ticket offices and easy-to-use Bus Travel
Santa Lucia Station, see p280. self-service machines, which City buses are cheap and
The nearest mainland station have clear instructions in several regular. Tickets, which must be
to Venice is Mestre, which lies languages and accept both cash bought prior to travel, are
at the end of the causeway and credit cards. Ticket offices at available from newsstands,
leading to Venice. It is also many small railway stations have tobacconists and shops that
the junction for lines to been replaced by a simpler display the bus company’s logo.
Conegliano, Treviso, Calalzo machine that accepts cash only. A flat fee is charged for rides
and the Friuli region. Tickets can also be purchased on within the city and the suburbs.
Verona lies at the intersection board all trains, but be aware that The ticket becomes valid only
of the main railway lines from they will then be subject to a when time-stamped in the
Venice to Milan and from considerable surcharge. machine on board the bus.
Bologna to Munich. The main
station, Porta Nuova, lies a short
distance south of the city centre
and is connected to it by
frequent buses. Facilities include
a tourist office, left-luggage
storage and a newsagent that
sells bus tickets. The small Porta
Vescovo station, serving local
stations to the east of Verona, is
used mainly by locals.
Padua (Padova) is only 30
minutes by train from Venice.
The station is in the north of the
town; buses and a tram leave
from outside the station for the An ATV bus in front of the Roman arena in Verona
It is normally cheaper and Petrol stations are scarce in the DIRECTORY

quicker to travel between towns countryside, and many do not
by train – in some cases, the bus accept credit cards. However, Train Travel
can take twice as long as the there are self-service petrol Trenitalia
train. However, there are a few stations that accept notes. Tel 89 20 21.
towns, such as Asolo (see p177), The ACI provides an efficient ∑ trenitalia.com
where your only choice of 24-hour breakdown service
public transport is by bus. In also available to foreign Bus Travel
most cases the bus departure visitors. The organization has
point is near the train station. reciprocal arrangements with Belluno
You can usually buy a ticket affiliated associations in other Dolomiti Bus: Tel 043 721 71 11.
valid for 1, 2 or more hours of countries, such as the AA ∑ dolomitibus.it
travel to cover longer distances. and RAC in Britain. Padua
Venice has excellent bus Many cities in the Veneto APS Holding: Tel 049 824 11 11.
connections to the Veneto have limited-traffic zones, and ∑ apsholding.it
from the hub at Piazzale Roma, normally only residents and Verona
where the main ticket offices taxis can drive into the centre. ATV: Tel 045 805 79 22.
are located. Visitors can drive up to their ∑ atv.verona.it
hotel to unload their luggage,
but they must then park on the Vicenza
Taxis outside of town and come in AIM Mobilità:
Travelling by taxi in the Veneto is on foot or by bus. Some hotels Tel 848 800 900.
∑ aimmobilita.it
not cheap. Meters show a fixed have a limited number of
starting charge, then clock up parking permits, but this is no
Driving and Parking
every kilometre. There are extra guarantee of a space. Your best
charges for luggage, bet is to telephone in ACI (Automobile
trips to the airports and advance and warn the Club d’Italia)
journeys taken hotel of your arrival. Emergencies:
between 10pm and Official parking Tel 803 116. ∑ aci.it
7am, on Sundays and areas are marked by Via Ca Marcello 67/d, Mestre.
on public holidays. blue lines, usually with Tel 041 531 03 62.
Taxi drivers do not meters. The disco orario
Via degli Scrovegni 19, Padua.
necessarily expect a tip (parking disc) system Tel 049 65 48 80.
– Italians give small tips allows free parking for
Via della Valverde 34, Verona.
or none at all. Disco orario a limited period in
Tel 045 853 87 84.
Take taxis only from parking disc certain areas. Car-hire
the official ranks, not companies provide the Via Enrico Fermi 233, Vicenza.
Tel 0444 56 86 89.
from touts at railway stations and cardboard discs to place on
airports. In Venice the taxi rank your windscreen, indicating the CIS (Centro Informazione
is in Piazzale Roma; in Padua, time of your arrival. If your car is Stradale)
Verona and Vicenza, taxis can be towed away, phone the Polizia Tel 1518 (Italian only).
found in the main squares. Municipale (municipal police). Polizia Municipale
Venice: Tel 041 274 70 70.
Driving and Parking Rules of the Road Padua: Tel 049 820 51 01.
Many of the main roads in the Drive on the right and, generally, Verona: Tel 045 807 84 11.
region are old, with only a give way to the right. Seat belts Vicenza: Tel 044 454 53 11.
couple of lanes, and traffic can are compulsory in the front and
be heavy. What looks like a short back, and children should be
trip on the map may take much properly restrained. You must
longer than you expect. For also carry a warning triangle in
more details on road conditions, case of breakdown. On
contact the CIS (Centro secondary roads the speed limit is
Informazione Stradale). Drivers 90 km/h (55 mph), on main roads
must pay a toll to travel on it is 110 km/h (70 mph) and on Speed limit (on End of speed
Italian motor ways (autostrade). motorways 130 km/h (80 mph), minor road) restriction
Payment can be made in cash though these are lower in fog or
or by prepaid magnetic cards heavy rain. Penalties for speeding
called Viacards. These are include spot fines and points
available from the offices of the added to your licence. There are
ACI (Automobile Club d’Italia) also drink-driving laws; the
and tobacconists. blood-alcohol limit is 0.05 per
Motorway service stations cent. The use of mobile phones Pedestrianized Give way 320 m
are open 24 hours a day. is forbidden, unless hands-free. street – no traffic (350 yards) ahead
288  VENICE STREET FINDER
VENICE STREET FINDER

All the sights, hotels, restaurants, shops and throughout this book, but when exploring
entertainment venues in Venice have map the city you will find that the street signs
references which refer you to this section are often printed in Venetian dialect.
of the book. The key map below indicates Sometimes this means only a slight variation
the areas of the city covered by the Street in the spelling (see the word Sotoportico/
Finder, and includes the colour coding Sotoportego below), but some names
specific to each area. Following the map look completely different. For example,
section is a complete index of street names Santi Giovanni e Paolo (see Map 3 C5) is often
(see pp298–301). The standard Italian signposted as “San Zanipolo”. Major sights
spelling has been used on the maps are labelled in Italian.
Recognizing Street Names

The signs for street (calle), canal (rio) and
square (campo) will soon become familiar,
but the Venetians have a colourful vocabulary
for the maze of alleys which makes up the
city. When exploring, the following may help.
Fondamenta Rio Terrà Cannaregio

A street that runs A filled-in canal.
alongside a canal, Similar to a rio terrà is
often named after a piscina, which
the canal it follows. often forms a square. Grande
l
na
Santa
Ca
Croce
Sotoportico or Sotoportego
A covered passageway. San Polo
Salizzada Riva
A main street (formerly A wide fondamenta,
a paved street). often facing the lagoon.
Dorsoduro
Ruga Corte
A street lined with shops. A courtyard.
Giudecca
Many streets and canals in Venice often have

more than one name: o means “or”.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
VENICE STREET FINDER  289
Murano
(Inset on maps 3 & 4)
Scale of Murano Inset

0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Murano
Key to Street Finder

Major sight
Place of interest
Railway station
Vaporetto boarding point
Traghetto crossing
Gondola mooring
Bus terminus
Tourist information
e Hospital with casualty unit
d
an
Gr Police station
Castello
an
a l Church
C
Synagogue
San
Marco Railway line
Scale of Map Pages

0 metres 200
0 yards 200
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LL CE
C
Loredàn C
n
E
ED
E
CA UCA G
I
do
CA ERC
CA
RI .E
AN
A
CA
Zu
C A IM
SL CO
r
RB
SA R M
L
TI CA D.
I
RT
lia
VA
Palazzo
C. D
N San Zulian
ON
LL E
L
CAMPO ON E DE Z C
CHIESA
A
LL
I P ULI
E
Ri N
o Grimani
M RO
ON
A SAN LUCA
LUC AZE I
ELL
A Museo
I
DE
CA
AG IG TT
di NO N
COR
N .M
S A N M A R C O
SA A
LL
'AN
SAL
CD D LI Guidi
ES
n
C. DRIO LA
Sa
ELLA
CALLE DEI FUSER
GELO
GOLDONI
PE
C
LO
CALLE
E
E
GHER i
CC
SP
I
VO
NN
DEL F I
DE
ET
San
AD
R
HI
LLE
C. D
A
ME ROLO
d
O
S .P CO
CAMPO SAL IAN LO
LL'O
M AR
R
CA
PR
ER
CD
AR
Ri
O
E
N MANIN PATERN AN
RC
A
LE C
N
I
B
SA AS
Procuratie
NIC
IA
A DEL
SA
U
LLE IAN ANO
ERIA GIO
CA ERN NDE C UNGHERIA RR FI RG
LE C SAL
C
T O CA TE E LA A L Museo CAMPO
PA L LL C SAN PROVOLO
ESIA LL E
O
RI S
E
F
RT CA SAN PROVOLO
Diocesano
LL
DE TTA I
Luc
C O
A
CO C LL ZZE
FMTA D. VIN
A
SAN ZACCAR
CD PIA ONCIN d’Arte Sacra
B
GA
C
Ri
CALLE
CALLE
. I
a
D LE
B
DEI
CAMPO
o
R T SSIN
I
eri
CH
Rio d
R
e
SA Fus Basilica
IES
C D.
AS Rio lle
FIA CA
Rio del Vin

Torre
A
Palazzo de
Ba
dell'Orologio San Marco

NC VA
DEG L I
a
el Pa
ci
CALLE DEL
DELLE
n Contarini
O LLE
no
ro
IA
E
Rio
C
O I
LA TT
del Bóvolo
LE CH
Ve rse
DE
I
FR
CAL AROL ol VE
C
LL
lazzo
C
EZ
d. BAR E o IE
A
DEI IE R LL AT
ALBA NES I
VE
CA RZI
O
VEN Ponte
ZE
RASSE
E A UR Campanile
RO
L L E
VIN
CAL TTARO ALL ISCIN ZO OC
RI
R
C P PR PIAZZA dei
NA
D I O L
FRU San R DE EGO
A
L L LE AR C Sospiri
E A C
AD SAN MARCO
D Fantìn C L L E D E L G N O LO LV Palazzo Hotel Ponte
C LA
CA BO SA del Vin
NIC
E
LA C
HIESA
CA
LLE NA VE Ducale Danieli
RGA
UO
Ri o
. F E CPO C D. EZIA
FRE
C A LLE D EN AT IE N Museo
SAN C V Museo CUR Ponte della
DEL
PRO Archeologico
ZZE
de
CA
FANTIN
ste i
RIMO A
CT Corrér Paglia
Ve INA B arc
L
LLE
RM P San Zaccaria
'AS
RIA
La Fenice PISC OISE TARIN Zecca

CON
DEL
e
CE
l
aroli
l M
de SAN ti Colonne di San
NSIO
CALL
ISE
inet
LE V
N MO
CRISTO
Rio SAL SA I rd Marco e San Teodoro

i Gia
TT Libreria
VAL
NE
de
E D.
ESTE
CAMPO NE
Rio DI
CAL ESSO
A R ZO SAN AR AL
I Sansoviniana
LAR
XI I M San Moisè GI RE
AX
LE
MOISE
LARG ARO
ZZI
CALLE
C SQU
CB
HE
Rio
Ridotto
C A LL
CAL OTTO
RID
OSTREG
CAL ARTIRI
Rio
CA LL E
San
LE D
ERO
Harry's Bar
M
E DE
LE T
ZZI
CALLE DELLE E BARO IN E San Marco
.
CALL
Mo
FA R
RED
DE L PE
Giardinetti
L TR
LLE
dell’Albero
E
isè
ICI
. D
ND
AGH
FO
ST RI
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO DEL
San Marco
ETTO
N
Vallaresso
Palazzo Palazzo
Gritti-Pisani Contarini Fasan Bacino di San Marco
Salute
E FMTA DOGANA ALLA
CAMPO DELLA SALUT SALUTE
F M TA
CALLE
Punta della
ABAZIA Dogana
D. S
C DEI MORTI
DELLA LAN
C DI MEZZO
Santa Maria
ALU
CALLE
della Salute
Rio
TE
ZA
CUME NI
D. CATE
A RT
C R TERR
dell
CAL
a
R IO
LE
I
N
Sal
LO
TER
SA
D.
ute
SQU
E
RA
C A LL I
R IN
QUE
ERO
I
AI
A
SAL
RE
ON
E
TT
I
ZA
TA
EN
AM
ND
FO
I
N
N
VA
I O CAMPO
G
NANI E
N
SA
BARBARO
TA
EN Hotel
A
M Cipriani
D
N
Zitelle FO
E
LL
TE
ZI
L LE Le Zitelle
DE
TA
EN
FO
ND
AM G I U D E C C A
C ZE N
EL L O
Rio
d i Sa C D. CO
n CAMPO DELLA CIM MU RTE D
A PP
CAMPO ITER
Gio CONFRATERNITA O NEG .
vann S GIUSTINA San Francesco HE
EST .
zze
iL
RM C
CEL PO D
aterano della Vigna
S FRANCESCO
IA
RM E PONTE
FONDACO
CALLE D.
alea
Rio di
S T E L L O
M
San
CA
Fra
eG
nce
ELLO
sc
renzo
o
dell
E
San Lorenzo SAL. SANTA C. DEL

CALL
GIUSTINA
CAPP
MORION CAMPO Rio
ale
San Lo
S TERNITA de
FRANCE
C LARGA S LORENZO
CAMPO O lla
C. ZORZI
Can
C ERIZZ
D. VIDA
Ce
CALLE
SAL S
RENZ les
BORGOLOCO SAN SAN LO tia
CALLE SAN
SCO
O
FONDAMENTA DI SAN LORENZO
LORENZO O LI C
D EL L’
O
SAL
I
DO
HIAVON
CORT E NUOVA E
CA LL NA
tà
SI
Rio di
ni
San Lorenzo
Questura
EL
r
. GA
CD
GIORGI TA SAN
CC
LORENZO
Te
O
N
O D. SC
G
RA
nt
TTE
A
M
Sa
ZZI
C
FM
Scuola di S Giorgio TTE di C

d. Schiavoni CPO
D . GA
Ri
o AN DE
GE LL ARSENALE
e
LO ’
rn
CAMPIELLO
CALLE DEL LION
Go
c h io
CALLE DEI FURLANI DO POZZI
E
CD
CA LL E
d e GORN
Rio di
FM
ET I
.S
DE I PR D.
TA
ec
lle
CU
CALLE C NO
R i o DELLE
M
le V
D. FU
DI
CALLE
CA EGH
GAZEN FO
UN
N D. MADONNA DEL MA
LL ET
FMTA OSMARI
Rio
E
RLANI
SA
ena
PO
A
D. E
lo LD IN IN
Provo S MARI N E I G R ECI
SC RT
CAM
D E LL 'O
T
RC O PI A
Ars
FMTA SALIZZ D. A M
di
San Giorgio S CORTE
tà
A DA S LE
CAL R
S
A VENIER IE
an
dei Greci
Pie
NI
EN
NT
CORTE V
NI
M C Dársena Grande
’ANTO
PE
BOSELLO E R
AT ar
C BOSELLO
Greci
San GN tin
FMTA
P I o
lla
NIN
Zaccaria EL
.D RI
N
SAL
ST
de
CAMPO
PE
L CALLE CAMPO
BANDIERA
CALLE DIETRO L A P I DE ITT
I
ARSENALE ARSENALE
dei
E TA E MORO C GR
ADONNA
LA
L LE San
CA
Rio
San Giovanni CA
A PEGO
TA
ERIZZO Martino
NO
LL
La Pietà
ll’Arsenale
PIE
in Brágora
EC
LLE
Rio
FOR
RO
CA
CALLE D.
CA
DELLA M
L
DO LE D.
C DELL
SE
IA
EL
CCE
R
AR
CPLO D.
A
D O SE
LE D
C D.
D io
M
CA RO
PIOVAN
ESC
O
LL SIN
ET L
TO
R I V A D E G L I CM
OL DE
e
E A
A
CAL
VEC LVASIA
P
Rio d
S C H
’d
F M TA
GN LE
RM
I A V CHIA
RN
CA CAL
Ca
O N
O
I io
IF
CD
ELL
DE
R
AV
IDA
E
CA
LL
NALE
RI MP
CA
VA O DELLA
TANA
’ARSE
CA Museo
Arsenale ' SA
NA
CHIE
Storico TA
DELL
D
I Navale A
CO RT
LL
N U O VA
D na DE
LA
IO
FMTA
Ta F M T A
NCO
E
la
el
DEL FORNO
CAMPO
C FIA
CALLE
SAN
RI o
VA BIAGIO Ri
GRIMANA
SA
CALLE
N
BI A LD I
C a AG
G A R IB
n a IO
IU SE PPE
l e V IA G
PEDROCCH
d i
CALLE
RI
VA
S D
a EI
I
n SE
TT
E
M M
A
RT
a IR
r I
c
o
CAMPO
San SAN
Giorgio GIORGIO
San Giorgio
Maggiore
SAN GIORGIO
Ca
MAGGIORE
na
le
de
Teatro
lla
Verde
Gr
az
ia
298  venice street finder
Street Finder Index

XXII Marzo, Calle Larga 7 A3 Bella, Ruga 2 E5
Bembo, Calle 2 E4 Key to Abbreviations
A Bembo, Calle 3 A4 C
Can
Calle
Canale
Rm
R
Ramo
Rio
S
Sta
San/Sant’
Santa
Bembo, Calle 7 A1
Abbazia, Calle 7 A4 Bergamaschi, Calle 1 C5 Cpo Campo RT Rio Terrà Sto Santo
Abbazia, Fondamenta dell’ 3 A3 Cplo Campiello Rg Ruga/ SS Santi/
Bergami, Calle 2 D5
Accademia Bridge 6 E3 Ct Corte Rughetta Santissimi
Berlendis, Calle Larga 3 C4
Fmta Fondamenta Sal Salizzada StP Sottoportico
Acque, Calle delle 7 B1 Bernardo, Calle 2 E5
Agnello, Calle dell’ 2 F5 Bernardo, Calle 5 B1
Albanesi, Calle degli 3 A4 Bernardo, Calle 6 D2 Cappello, Calle 7 D1 Chiesa e Teatro, Salizzada 6 F2
Albanesi, Calle degli 6 E1 Bertolini, Calle 4 D3 Cappello, Ramo 7 D1 Chiovere, Calle delle 6 D1
Albanesi, Calle degli 6 F2 Bevilacqua, Calle 5 B3 Cappuccine, Calle delle 2 D2 Chiovere, Campiello 6 D1
Albanesi, Calle degli 7 C2 Bezzo, Calle 6 D1 Cappuccine, Calle delle 4 D5 Chioverette, Calle delle 2 D3
Albanesi, Ramo 3 A4 Biasio, Riva di 2 D4 Cappuccine, Chioverette, Calle Lunga 2 D5
Albero, Calle dell’ 6 F2 Bigaglia, Campiello 4 E3 Fondamenta delle 2 D2 Chioverette, Ramo 2 D5
Albero, Rio dell’ 7 A3 Biri, Rio Terrà dei 3 C4 Capuzzi, Calle 6 F4 Cimesin, Ramo 6 D1
Albrizzi, Calle 2 F5 Biscotella, Calle 3 B3 Carbon, Calle del 7 A1 Cimitero, Calle del 8 E1
Amai, Corte degli 5 C1 Bissa, Calle 7 B1 Carbon, Riva del 7 A1 Cimitero, Strada
Anconeta, Calle dell’ 2 E3 Bo, Calle del 3 A5 Carità, Campo della 6 E3 Comunale del 4 D2
Anconeta, Campiello dell’ 2 E3 Bognolo, Calle 7 A2 Carità, Corte 3 C4 Colambola, Canale 1 B2
Angeli, Canale degli 3 C2 Bollani, Fondamenta 6 E3 Carità, Rio Terrà 6 E4 Coletti, Fondamenta Carlo 1 C1
Angeli, Canale degli 4 D2 Bondi, Calle 3 B4 Carmelitani, Calle 1 C4 Collegio Armeno 5 C3
Angelo, Calle dell’ 7 C2 Bontini, Fondamenta 6 D4 Carminati, Calle 7 B1 Colleoni, Fondamenta
Angelo, Calle dell’ 8 E1 Borgato, Salizzada Larga 3 B4 Carminati, Salizzada 2 E5 Antonio 4 E2
Angelo Raffaele, Campo 5 B3 Borgo, Fondamenta di 6 D4 Carmini, Campo dei 5 C2 Colombina, Calle 2 F3
Angelo Raffaele, Rio dell’ 5 B3 Borgoloco, Calle di 7 C1 Carmini, Rio dei 5 C3 Colombo, Calle 2 E5
Archivio, Calle dietro l’ 6 D1 Bosello, Calle 8 D2 Carro, Calle del 7 A2 Colonna, Calle 2 E4
Arco, Calle 3 A5 Bosello, Corte 8 D2 Carrozze, Calle delle 3 C5 Colonne, Rio Terrà delle 7 B2
Arco, Calle dell’ 8 E2 Botta, Calle della 2 F5 Carrozze, Calle delle 6 E2 Colori, Calle dei 1 B3
Arrigoni, Calle 2 F2 Botteghe, Calle delle 6 D3 Cartellotti, Calle dei 5 C4 Comare, Campiello della 1 C5
Arsenale, Calle 8 E2 Botteghe, Calle delle 6 F2 Casa del Tintoretto 2 F3 Comello, Calle 3 B5
Arsenale, Campo 8 F2 Botteri, Calle dei 2 F5 Case Nuove, Calle delle 2 E3 Condulmer, Fondamenta 5 C1
Arsenale, Fondamenta dell’ 8 F3 Botteri, Calle Larga dei 3 C4 Case Nuove, Corte 1 C5 Confraternità, Campo della 8 E1
Arsenale, Rio dell’ 8 F2 Bragadin, Fondamenta 6 E4 Case Nuove, Fondamenta 1 C2 Contarina, Calle 2 D2
Arsenale Vecchio 8 F1 Brazzo, Calle 2 F2 Case Nuove, Fondamenta 4 E5 Contarina, Calle Larga 2 D5
Artigiano, Calle dell’ 4 E1 Bressana, Calle 3 C5 Cason, Campiello del 3 B5 Contarini, Corte 5 C2
Arziere, Fondamenta dell’ 5 B2 Briati, Fondamenta 5 B3 Casselleria, Calle 7 C1 Contarini, Fondamenta 2 D2
Arziere, Rio dell’ 5 B2 Briati, Rio 5 C2 Cassetti, Rio 6 E1 Contarini, Fondamenta 6 E1
Ascensione, Calle Larga dell’ 7 B3 Briati, Via 4 E3 Castelli, Calle 3 B5 Contarini, Fondamenta
Aseo, Calle 3 B5 Brocchetta, Calle 6 D2 Catecumeni, Ramo 7 A4 Gasparo 3 A3
Aseo, Calle dell’ 2 E3 Brussa, Calle 4 E2 Catecumeni, Rio Terra de 7 A4 Contarini e Benzon, Calle 6 F2
Aseo, Calle dell’ 6 D2 Burchielle, Fondamenta Cavalli, Calle 7 A1 Conterie, Calle 4 E2
Assassini, Rio Terrà degli 7 A2 delle 5 B1 Cavalli, Calle dei 6 F1 Convento, Calle dei 4 E1
Astori, Ramo 2 E5 Burchielle, Rio delle 5 B1 Cavallo, Calle del 3 C5 Convertite,
Avogaria, Calle dell’ 5 C3 Busello, Calle 3 C3 Cavour, Fondamenta 4 E2 Fondamenta delle 5 C5
Avogaria, Rio dell’ 5 C3 Businello, Calle 6 F1 Cazza, Corte 2 E4 Convertite, Rio delle 5 C5
Avvocati, Calle degli 6 F2 Cazza, Ramo 2 E5 Cooperative,
C Cazziola, Fondamenta 5 C2 Campiello delle 1 C2
B Cadene, Calle delle 3 B3
Cazziola, Rio della
Ca’ Bala, Fondamenta di
5 B2
6 F4
Cordellina, Calle
Cordoni, Calle dei
2 E3
3 C4
Badoer, Corte 6 E1 Caffettier, Calle del 4 D5 Ca’ di Dio, Rio 8 E2 Corfù, Calle 6 E3
Bagatin, Rio Terrà 3 B5 Caffettier, Calle del 6 D2 Ca’ di Dio, Riva 8 E3 Corner, Calle 2 F5
Balastro, Calle 5 C3 Caffettier, Calle del 6 F2 Ca’ Dolce, Rio di 3 B4 Corner, Calle 6 E1
Balbi, Calle 6 E2 Cagnoletto, Calle del 8 E2 Ca’ d’Oro, Calle di 3 A4 Corona, Calle della 7 C2
Balbi, Calle 7 B1 Caldarer, Calle 2 E5 Ca’ Foscari, Rio di 6 D2 Corrente, Calle 3 A4
Bande, Calle delle 7 C1 Calegheri, Campiello 6 F3 Ca’ Michiel, Rio di 6 F2 Correr, Calle 2 F4
Bandiera e Moro, Campo 8 E2 Caliari, Calle 2 E2 Ca’ Tron, Rio 2 E4 Correr, Corte 5 B1
Barba Fruttariol, Rio Terrà 3 B4 Camerini, Calle 5 B2 Celestia, Campo della 8 E1 Cortesia, Calle della 7 A2
Barbarigo, Fondamenta 5 B3 Campaniel, Calle 6 E2 Celestia, Rio della 8 E1 Corti, Calle dei 6 E1
Barbaro, Campiello 6 F4 Campanile, Calle del 2 F5 Celsi, Calle 8 E1 Cossetti, Fondamenta 5 B1
Barbaro, Corte 2 F4 Campazzo, Calle 6 D1 Cendon, Calle 1 C3 Crea, Calle della 6 F4
Barbo, Corte 6 D2 Campo Sportivo 4 E1 Cerchieri, Calle dei 6 D3 Crea, Rio della 1 B3
Barcaroli, Calle dei 7 A2 Canal, Corte 2 D5 Cereri, Fondamenta dei 5 B2 Crea, Rio Terrà della 1 C3
Barcaroli, Rio dei 7 A3 Canal, Fondamenta 2 F3 Cereria, Calle della 1 B3 Cremonese, Calle 5 C1
Bari, Calle Larga dei 2 D5 Canal, Grande 2 D4 Chiesa, Calle 5 C3 Cristi, Calle dei 2 F5
Bari, Fondamenta dei 5 A3 continues 3 A5 Chiesa, Calle della 2 D4 Cristo, Calle del 2 E4
Bari, Lista dei 2 D4 continues 6 F2 Chiesa, Calle della 2 E4 Cristo, Calle del 2 E3
Barovier, Via 4 E2 Canal, Rio Terra 6 D2 Chiesa, Calle della 2 F5 Cristo, Calle del 2 E5
Barozzi, Calle 7 A3 Cannaregio, Canale di 1 B2 Chiesa, Calle della 6 D3 Cristo, Calle del 2 F4
Basego, Calle 5 C2 Cannaregio, Fondamenta di 1 C3 Chiesa, Calle della 6 E1 Cristo, Calle del 4 E2
Basego, Corte 5 C2 Canne, Calle delle 1 B3 Chiesa, Calle della 6 F4 Cristo, Calle del 5 B3
Bastion, Calle 6 F4 Canonica, Calle 7 C2 Chiesa, Calle dietro la 7 A2 Cristo, Calle del 6 E2
Battello, Fondamenta del 1 C2 Canossiane, Calle Longa 2 E2 Chiesa, Calle drio la 7 C2 Cristo, Calle del 6 F2
Battello, Rio del 1 C2 Caotorta, Calle 6 F2 Chiesa, Calle fianco la 8 F3 Cristo, Calle del 7 A3
Beata Giuliana, Fmta 5 A5 Capitello, Calle del 2 E2 Chiesa, Campo della 5 A5 Cristo, Campiello del 2 D5
Beccarie, Calle 3 A5 Capitello, Calle del 2 E2 Chiesa, Fondamenta della 3 A4 Cristo, Rio Terrà del 2 E3
Beccarie, Calle delle 1 B3 Cappeller, Calle 6 D2 Chiesa, Rio Terrà dietro la 2 E4 Croce, Calle della 2 D5
Beccarie, Campiello delle 1 B3 Cappellera, Calle 8 E1 Chiesa, Salizzada della 2 D3 Croce, Fondamenta 1 C5
Beccarie, Rio delle 2 F5 Cappello, Calle 2 E5 Chiesa del Cavalletto, Calle Croci, Calle delle 3 C4
continues 3 A5 Cappello, Calle 5 B2 fianco la 7 B2 Crociferi, Oratorio dei 3 B4
venice street finder  299
Crosera, Calle
Crosera, Calle
6 F2
8 E2
Forno, Calle del
Forno, Calle del
3 B4
3 B5
I Martinengo, Calle
Masena, Calle della
7 B1
2 E3
Crotta, Fondamenta 2 D4 Forno, Calle del 6 D1 Isola, Ramo dell’ 2 E5 Masena, Calle della 3 B3
Forno, Calle del 6 D2 Isola, Rio dell’ 2 E5 Masena, Calle della 5 C4
D Forno, Calle del 6 E1 Mazzini, Calle Larga 7 A1
Dario, Sottoportico 2 D5
Forno, Calle del 6 F1 L Megio, Calle del 2 E4
Forno, Calle del 7 B1 Megio, Fondamenta del 2 E4
Diedo, Fondamenta 2 F3 Forno, Calle del 8 E1 Labia, Fondamenta 2 D4 Megio, Rio del 2 E5
Do Aprile, Via 7 A1 Forno, Calle del 8 E2 Lacca, Calle della 2 D5 Meloni, Campiello 6 F1
Do Pozzi, Campiello 8 E1 Forno, Calle del 8 F3 Lacca, Sottoportico 6 D1 Mendicanti,
Do Pozzi, Ruga 3 A4 Forno, Corte 6 F4 Lana, Campo della 1 C5 Fondamenta dei 3 C5
Do Torri, Rio delle 2 F5 Forno, Corte del 6 D2 Lanza, Calle della 7 A4 Mendicanti, Rio dei 3 C5
Docce, Calle delle 8 E2 Foscari, Calle 6 D2 Lardona, Corte 5 B3 Mercanti, Calle dei 7 C1
Dogana alla Salute, Foscari, Calle Larga 6 D2 Larga, Calle 2 E5 Mercerie 7 B2
Fondamenta 7 A4 Foscarini, Calle Marco 3 B3 Larga, Calle 2 F3 Mezzo, Calle 6 E4
Doge Priuli, Calle Larga 3 A4 Foscarini, Fondamenta 5 C2 Larga, Calle 6 E1 Mezzo, Calle di 6 D1
Dogolin, Calle 5 C3 Foscarini, Rio Terrà Antonio 6 E4 Lavraneri, Calle Larga dei 5 A5 Mezzo, Calle di 6 F1
Dolera, Calle 6 F1 Franceschi, Rio Terrà dei 3 B4 Lavraneri, Canale dei 5 B5 Mezzo, Calle di 7 A4
Donà, Calle 6 E1 Franchi, Calle 6 F4 Le Zitelle 7 C5 Mezzo, Calle di 7 B1
Donà, Calle 8 E1 Legname, Calle Larga del 2 E2 Miani, Calle 2 F5
Frari, Campo dei 6 E1
Donà, Ramo 3 B4 Legnami, Calle dei 3 A3 Minotto, Fondamenta 5 C1
Frari, Rio dei 6 E1
Donzella, Calle 7 A1 Leoncini, Piazzetta dei 7 B2 Miotti, Calle 4 D3
Frati, Calle dei 5 B3
Dose, Calle del 3 B5 Lezze, Calle 6 E2 Misericordia, Calle della 1 C4
Frati, Calle dei 6 D3
Dose, Calle del 7 C1 Lezze, Calle Larga 3 A3 Misericordia, Calle della 5 C1
Frati, Calle dei 6 D4
Dose, Calle del 8 D2 Lezze, Ramo 6 E2 Misericordia,
Frati, Calle dei 6 F2
Dose da Ponte, Calle del 6 F3 Lion, Calle del 8 D1 Fondamenta della 2 F3
Frescada, Rio della 6 D2
Dragan, Calle 3 A5 Lista di Spagna, Rio Terrà 2 D4 Misericordia, Ramo della 1 C4
Frezzeria 7 A2
Drazzi, Calle 8 E1 Lizza, Fondamenta 5 B3 Misericordia, Rio della 2 E3
Fruttarol, Calle 6 E3
Duca, Calle del 3 A4 Locande, Calle delle 7 A2 continues 3 A3
Fruttarol, Calle del 7 A2
Duca, Rio del 6 E3 Loredan, Calle 2 F2 Misericordia, Sacca della 3 A3
Fumo, Calle del 3 C4
Lustraferri, Rio dei 2 F3 Mistro, Calle del 4 E2
Furlani, Calle dei 8 E1
E Furlani, Fondamenta dei 8 D2
Mocenigo Casa Vecchia,
Fuseri, Calle dei 7 A2 M Calle 6 E2
Emo, Calle 2 D4 Modena, Calle 3 B5
Fuseri, Rio 7 A2 Maddalena, Calle 5 B3
Erbe, Calle delle 3 C5 Modena, Calle della 2 E5
Fusina, Canale di 5 A4 Maddalena, Rio Terrà della 2 F3
Eremite, Calle 6 D3 Molin, Calle 6 D1
Eremite, Fondamenta delle 6 D3 Madonna, Calle 6 F1 Monastero, Calle del 6 F4
Eremite, Rio delle 6 D3 G Madonna, Calle 6 F2 Monastero, Fondamenta 1 C5
Erizzo, Calle 8 E1 Madonna, Calle della 1 C3 Mondo Nuovo, Calle 7 C1
Gabriella, Calle 3 C5
Erizzo, Calle 8 E2 Madonna, Calle della 3 B4 Monfalcone, Calle 5 B5
Gaffaro, Fondamenta del 5 C1
Madonna, Calle della 3 C5 Monti delle Ballotte,
Galeazza, Calle 7 B1
F Galeazze, Canale delle 8 F1
Madonna, Calle della
Madonna, Calle della
7 A1
8 D1
Calle dei 7 B1
Mori, Campo dei 2 F3
Fabbri, Calle dei 7 B2 Gallina, Calle Larga Giacinto 3 C5 Madonna, Mori, Fondamenta dei 2 F3
Fabbrica Tabacchi, Gallion, Calle 2 D5 Fondamenta della 5 B2 Morion, Calle del 8 E1
Fondamenta 5 B1 Gallo, Corte 5 C1 Madonna, Moro, Calle 3 B4
Fabbriche Nuove 3 A5 Garibaldi, Via Giuseppe 8 F3 Fondamenta della 8 F2 Moro, Calle 6 E1
Falier, Calle 6 D1 Garibaldi, Viale 4 E3 Madonna dell’Orto, Moro, Fondamenta 2 F3
Farine, Fondamenta delle 7 B3 Gatte, Campo delle 8 E1 Fondamenta 2 F2 Morolin, Calle 6 E2
Farnese, Calle 2 E3 Gatte, Salizzada delle 8 E1 Madonna dell’Orto, Rio 2 F2 Morosina, Calle 8 E2
Farsetti, Rio Terrà 2 E3 Gesuiti, Campo dei 3 B4 Madonnetta, Calle 6 F1 Morti, Calle dei 5 C4
Fava, Calle della 7 B1 Gesuiti, Rio dei 3 B4 Madonnetta, Rio della 6 F1 Morti, Calle dei 7 A4
Fava, Campo della 7 B1 Gherardini, Fondamenta 6 D3 Magazen, Calle 6 D1 Mosca, Campiello 6 D2
Fava, Rio della 7 B1 Ghetto Nuovo, Campo 2 E3 Magazen, Calle 6 F1 Moschette, Calle delle 4 D5
Felzi, Fondamenta 3 C5 Ghetto Nuovo, Magazen, Calle del 1 B3 Mosto Balbi, Calle da 2 D4
Fenice, Calle della 7 A2 Fondamenta di 2 E3 Magazen, Calle del 2 D2 Mula, Fondamenta da 4 E2
Fenice, Fondamenta 7 A3 Ghetto Nuovo, Rio del 2 E3 Magazen, Calle del 3 B4 Mula, Ramo da 4 E2
Ferau, Calle 1 C2 Ghetto Vecchio, Calle del 2 D2 Magazen, Calle del 3 B5 Muneghe, Calle delle 2 E2
Ferro, Riva del 7 A1 Giardinetti Reali 7 B3 Magazen, Calle del 6 D2 Muneghe, Calle delle 6 E3
Figher, Calle del 7 C2 Giardinetti, Rio dei 7 B3 Magazen, Calle del 6 D4 Muneghe, Campiello 2 D5
Figheri, Calle dei 5 A5 Giardino Ex Papadopoli 1 C5 Magazen, Calle del 7 A2 Muneghe, Corte delle 8 E1
Filosi, Calle 2 F5 continues 5 C1 Magazen, Calle del 8 D1 Muneghette, Calle delle 8 E2
Fiori, Campiello dei 2 F4 Giochin, Calle 2 D4 Magazen, Fondamenta 5 C1 Muneghette, Rio delle 6 D1
Fisola, Calle 5 B5 Giudecca, Canale della 6 E5 Magazzini, Calle dietro ai 5 A3 Murano, Canal Grande di 4 E2
Fiubera, Calle 7 B2 Giuffa, Ruga 7 C1 Maggiore, Corte 5 B3 Muti, Corte dei 3 A3
Flangini, Campiello 2 D4 Giustinian, Fondamenta 4 E2 Magno, Calle 8 E1 Muti, Rio dei 3 A3
Fóndaco, Calle del 8 D1 Goldoni, Calle 7 A2 Malcanton, Fondamenta 5 C1
Gorne, Campo delle 8 E1
Fóndaco dei Turchi, Rio
Fonderia, Calle della
2 E4
6 D1 Gorne, Rio delle 8 E1
continues
Malcanton, Rio del
5 C2
5 C1
N
Fornace, Rio della 6 F4 Gozzi, Calle 6 E2 Malpaga, Rio 5 C3 Nani e Barbaro, Campo 7 C5
Forner, Calle del 1 C2 Gradenigo, Fondamenta 2 D5 Malvasia, Calle 2 F4 Nani, Calle Larga 6 E4
Forner, Calle del 2 F5 Gradisca, Calle 2 D5 Malvasia, Calle 6 F1 Nani, Fondamenta 6 D4
Forner, Fondamenta del 6 D1 Gradisca, Calle 2 F2 Malvasia, Calle della 2 E2 Navagero, Fondamenta
Forner, Piscina 6 E4 Grazia, Canale della 8 D5 Malvasia, Ramo della 7 B1 Andrea 4 E3
Forni, Calle dei 8 E2 Greci, Rio dei 8 D2 Malvasia Vecchia, Calle 8 E2 Navaro, Calle 6 F4
Forno, Calle 6 D3 Greci, Salizzada dei 8 D2 Mandola, Calle della 6 F2 Nave, Calle 5 B3
Forno, Calle del 2 D3 Grimana, Calle 8 F3 Mandola, Rio Terrà della 6 F2 Nave, Calle della 7 B1
Forno, Calle del 2 D4 Grimani, Calle 7 A1 Manin, Campo 7 A2 Nicoletto, Calle 6 D1
Forno, Calle del 2 E3 Gritti, Calle 6 F3 Manin, Fondamenta Noale, Rio di 3 A4
Forno, Calle del 2 E4 Gritti, Calle 8 E2 Daniele 4 D3 Noel, Calle 2 F4
Forno, Calle del 2 F3 Groggia, Parco 2 E2 Marani, Canale dei 4 E3 Nomboli, Rio Terrà dei 6 E1
Forno, Calle del 2 F4 Grue, Fondamenta delle 2 E5 Maravegie, Fondamenta 6 D4 Nova, Strada 2 F4
Forno, Calle del 3 A4 Guardiani, Calle dei 5 B2 Marcona, Calle 6 E2 Nova, Strada 3 A4
Forno, Calle del 3 A4 Guerra, Campo della 7 B1 Marin, Rio 2 D5 Nuova, Calle 2 D2
300  venice street finder
Nuova, Calle 2 E3 Pezzana, Calle 6 E1 Ridotto, Calle del 7 B3 San Boldo, Rio di 2 E5
Nuova, Calle 5 B3 Piave, Calle Larga 2 F2 Riello, Calle 2 D3 San Canciano, Salizzada 3 B5
Nuova, Calle 5 B3 Piave, Campiello 2 F2 Riello, Calle 5 B3 San Cassiano, Campo 2 F5
Nuova, Calle 5 C2 Piave, Fondamenta 4 E3 Riformati, Calle dei 2 E2 San Cassiano, Rio di 2 F5
Nuova, Corte 6 D1 Piccolo del Legname, Rio 6 F4 Riformati, Fondamenta dei 2 E2 Santa Caterina, Calle Lunga 3 A3
Nuova, Corte 6 F4 Pietà, Calle della 3 B4 Riformati, Rio dei 2 D2 Santa Caterina,
Nuova, Corte 8 D1 Pietà, Calle della 8 D2 Rimedio, Calle del 7 C1 Fondamenta 3 B3
Nuova, Corte 8 F3 Pietà, Calle dietro la 8 D2 Rimini, Calle 5 A5 Santa Caterina, Rio di 3 B3
Nuova dei Tabacchi, Calle 5 B1 Pietà, Campiello della 3 B4 Rio Marin, Fondamenta 2 D5 Santa Chiara, Canale di 1 A5
Nuova in Campo, Calle 6 F2 Pietà, Rio della 8 D2 Rio Marin o Garzotti, continues 5 A1
Nuova Sant’Agnese, Calle 6 E4 Pignater, Salizzada del 8 E2 Fondamenta 2 D5 Santa Chiara,
Nuova Terese, Calle 5 A3 Pignoli, Calle dei 7 B2 Rio Nuovo, Fondamenta 5 C1 Fondamenta di 1 B5
Nuove, Canale delle Pindemonte, Calle 7 B1 Rio Nuovo, San Cipriano, Calle 4 D3
Fondamente 3 A2 Pinelli, Calle 7 C1 Fondamenta del 5 C2 San Cristoforo, Calle 6 F4
Nuove, Fondamente 3 B3 Pio X, Salizzada 7 A1 Rio Terrà, Calle 6 E1 San Domenico, Calle 6 E4
Nuovo, Campiello 6 F2 Piombo, Calle 7 B1 Rio Terrà, Calle 7 A4 San Donato, Canale di 4 E1
Nuovo, Rio 5 C1 Piovan, Campiello del 8 E2 Rizzi, Fondamenta 5 B2 San Fantin, Campo 7 A2
Piovan, Fondamenta 3 B5 Rizzo, Calle 2 D2 San Felice, Calle 3 A4
O Pisani, Calle 2 D4 Roma, Piazzale
Rosa, Calle della
5 B1
2 F5
San Felice, Campo
San Felice, Fondamenta
3 A4
3 A4
Pisani, Calle Larga 6 E4
Oca, Calle dell’ 3 A5 Piscina, Calle di 7 A2 Rossa, Fondamenta 5 C2 San Felice, Rio di 3 A4
Oche, Calle delle 2 E5 Pistor, Calle del 2 D4 Rota, Calle 6 E4 Sant’Eufemia,
Ognissanti, Fondamenta 5 C3 Pistor, Calle del 3 A4 Rotonda, Calle della 2 E2 Fondamenta 6 D5
Ognissanti, Rio 6 D4 Pistor, Calle del 6 D5 Rotta, Calle 7 C1 Sant’Eufemia,
Ognissanti, Rio Terrà 6 D3 Pistor, Calle del 6 E1 Rotta, Corte 2 F5 Fondamenta Rio 6 D5
Olio, Calle dell’ 2 D5 Pistor, Calle del 6 E4 Rotta, Corte 7 C1 Sant’Eufemia, Rio di 6 D5
Olio, Calle dell’ 2 F4 Pistor, Salizzada del 3 B4 Ruga Vecchia, Calle 2 D5 Santa Fosca, Rio di 2 F4
Olio, Calle dell’ 4 E3 Pompea, Calle 6 E4 Rughetta, Fondamenta 5 B3 San Francesco, Calle 4 E5
Olio, Calle dell’ 5 B2 Ponte, Calle Da 6 E4 San Francesco, Ramo 8 E1
Olio, Calle dell’
Olio, Calle dell’
6 F1
8 E1
Ponte Piccolo, S San Francesco, Rio di
San Francesco, Salizzada
8 E1
6 E2
Fondamenta di 6 E5
Olio, Fondamenta dell’ 3 A5 Ponte Sant’Antonio, Calle 7 B1 Sabbioni, Corte dei 6 F4 San Francesco, Salizzada 8 E1
Ondello, Canale 4 F2 Porpora, Calle della 1 C2 Sabbioni, Rio Terrà dei 2 D4 San Gallo, Calle 7 B2
Orbi, Calle dei 6 E2 Porto Commerciale, Sacca, Calle della 5 B5 San Gerardo Sagredo,
Orbi, Calle dei 7 C1 Banchina del 5 A4 Sacca Fisola San Biagio, Fondamenta 5 A5
Orefici, Ruga degli 3 A5 Porton, Calle del 2 E3 Canale 5 A5 San Geremia, Campo 2 D4
Ormesini, Calle degli 2 E3 Posta, Calle della 3 B4 Sacche, Canale delle 1 C1 San Geremia, Salizzada 2 D4
Ormesini, Preti, Calle dei 2 E3 Sacchere, Calle 6 D1 San Giacomo, Calle 4 F2
Fondamenta degli 2 E3 Preti, Calle dei 7 B2 Sacchere, Fondamenta San Giacomo dell’Orio,
Orologio, Merceria dell’ 7 B2 Preti, Calle dei 8 D1 delle 6 D1 Campo 2 E5
Orseolo, Bacina 2 B2 Preti Crosera, Calle dei 6 D2 Sagredo, Calle 4 E5 San Giácomo dell’Orio, Rio 2 E5
Orseolo, Rio 2 B2 Prima, Calle Larga 6 E1 Salamon, Calle 3 A4 San Giobbe, Campo 1 B3
Orsetti, Calle 2 D5 Primo Corte Contarina, Saloni, Rio Terrà ai 7 A4 San Giobbe,
Orso, Rio dell’ 6 F3 Ramo 7 A3 Salute, Campo della 7 A4 Fondamenta di 1 C3
Orti, Calle degli 4 E5 Primo della Donzella, Calle 3 A5 Salute, Fondamenta della 7 A4 San Giobbe, Rio di 1 B3
Orti, Strada Vicinale 4 D2 Priuli, Calle 3 A4 Salute, Rio della 7 A4 San Giorgio, Campo 8 D4
Osmarin, Fondamenta 8 D2 Priuli, Calle 6 E1 Salvadego, Calle del 7 B2 San Giorgio degli
Osmarin, Fondamenta dell’ 8 D2 Priuli, Campiello 5 C5 Sant’Agnese, Campo 6 E4 Schiavoni, Fondamenta 8 D1
Ospedale, Calle 3 C5 Priuli, Fondamenta 6 E3 Sant’Agnese, Piscina 6 E4 San Giovanni, Calle 6 F4
Ostreghe, Calle delle 7 A3 Priuli detta dei Cavalletti, Sant’Agostin, Campo di 2 E5 San Giovanni, Calle di 2 D3
Ovo, Calle dell’ 7 A1 Calle 1 C4 Sant’Agostino, Rio di 6 E1 San Giovanni, Fondamenta 7 C5
Procuratie, Calle delle 2 D4 Sant’Alvise, Campo di 2 E2 San Giovanni,
P Procuratie, Calle delle 5 B2 Sant’Alvise, Rio di
Sant’Alvise, Sacca di
2 E2
1 C2
Ruga Vecchio
San Giovanni Crisostomo,
3 A5
Procuratie,
Pagan, Fondamenta 5 C1 Fondamenta delle 5 B2 Sant’Andrea, Campo 5 A1 Rio 3 B5
Paglia, Calle della 2 E3 Procuratie, Rio delle 7 B2 Sant’Andrea, Fondamenta 3 B4 San Giovanni Crisostomo,
Palazzo, Rio del 7 C2 Procuratie Nuove 7 B2 Sant’Andrea, Fondamenta 5 B1 Salizzada 3 B5
Paludo, Corte del 3 C4 Procuratie Vecchie 7 B2 Sant’Andrea, Rio Terrà 5 B1 San Giovanni dei Battuti,
Panada, Rio della 3 C4 Proverbi, Calle Larga dei 3 B4 Sant’Angelo, Campo 6 F2 Fondamenta 4 E3
Papadopoli, Fondamenta 5 C1 Sant’Angelo, Rio di 6 F2 San Giovanni Laterano,
Paradiso, Calle 4 F2
Paradiso, Calle del 7 A1
Q Sant’Antonin, Salizzada
Sant’Antonio, Calle
8 E2
2 D4
Rio di
San Girolamo,
8 D1
Paradiso, Calle del 7 B1 Querini, Calle 2 E4 Sant’Antonio, Calle 7 B1 Fondamenta 2 D2

Paradiso, Corte del 7 C1 Querini, Calle 7 A4 Sant’Antonio, Campo 3 B4 San Girolamo,
Parrucchetta, Rio Terrà 2 E5 Querini, Calle 7 C1 Sant’Aponal, Rio Terrà 6 D2 Fondamenta di Sacca 1 B2
Pazienza, Calle della 5 C3 Santi Apostoli, Campo dei 3 B5 San Girolamo, Rio di 1 C2
Pedrocchi, Calle
Pegola, Calle della
8 F3
8 F2
R Santi Apostoli, Rio dei 3 B5
Santi Apostoli, Rio Terrà dei 3 B4
San Girolamo, Sacca di
Santa Giustina, Campo
1 C2
8 D1
Pegolotto, Sottoportico del 2 E3 Rabbia, Calle della 2 E3 San Bárnaba 6 D3 Santa Giustina,
Penini, Fondamenta 8 E2 Racchetta, Calle della 3 A4 San Barnaba, Calle Lunga 5 C3 Fondamenta di 4 D5
Penitenti, Calle Larga dei 1 B1 Racchetta, Rio della 3 A4 San Barnaba, Campo 6 D3 Santa Giustina, Rio di 4 D5
Pensieri, Calle dei 5 B1 Radi, Fondamenta Lorenzo 4 F2 San Barnaba, Rio di 6 D3 Santa Giustina, Salizzada 8 E1
Pensieri, Rio Terrà dei 5 B2 Ragusei, Calle 5 C2 San Bartolomeo, Campo 7 B1 San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti 3 C4
Perdon, Calle del 6 F1 Ragusei, Calle Larga 5 C2 San Basegio, Banchina di 5 B4 San Leonardo, Campo 2 E3
Perleri, Calle dei 2 E3 Raspi, Calle 2 F5 San Basegio, Salizzada 5 B3 San Leonardo, Rio Terrà 2 E3
Pesaro, Calle 1 C4 Rasse, Calle delle 7 C2 San Basilio, Fondamenta 5 B3 San Lio, Campo 7 B1
Pesaro, Calle 2 F4 Ravano, Calle del 2 F5 San Beneto, Campo 6 F2 San Lio, Rio di 3 B5
Pesaro, Calle 6 F2 Ravano, Ruga 7 A1 San Bernardo, Calle 4 E2 San Lio, Salizzada 7 B1
Pescaria, Ramo 8 E2 Regina, Calle della 2 F5 San Bernardo, Campo 4 E2 San Lorenzo, Borgoloco 8 D1
Pescheria, Campo della 3 A5 Remer, Calle del 3 B4 San Biagio, Campo 8 F3 San Lorenzo, Calle 5 B3
Pescheria, Fondamenta di 5 B3 Remorchianti, Calle dei 5 A3 San Biagio, Fondamenta 5 C5 San Lorenzo, Calle 8 D1
Pestrin, Calle del 6 F2 Renier o Pistor, Calle 6 D2 San Biagio, Rio di 5 C5 San Lorenzo, Calle Larga 8 D1
Pestrin, Calle del 7 A3 Rialto Bridge 7 A1 San Biagio, Riva 8 F3 San Lorenzo, Campo 8 D1
Pestrin, Calle del 8 E2 Rialto Nuovo, Campo 3 A5 San Boldo, Campo 2 E5 San Lorenzo, Fondamenta 4 E2
venice street finder  301
San Lorenzo, San Stae, Campo 2 F4 Squero, Calle dello 3 C4 Vele, Calle delle 7 B1
Fondamenta di 8 D1 San Stae, Rio di 2 F5 Squero, Calle dello 6 E4 Vendramin, Calle 2 F4
San Lorenzo, Rio di 8 D1 San Stae, Salizzada 2 F4 Squero, Calle dello 7 A4 Vendramin, Calle Larga 2 F4
San Luca, Calle 7 A1 Santo Stefano, Campo 4 E2 Squero, Campo 6 D3 Vendramin, Fondamenta 2 F4
San Luca, Campo 7 A2 Santo Stefano, Campo 6 F3 Squero, Fondamenta dello 6 D3 Veneziana, Calle 7 A2
San Luca, Rio di 7 A2 San Stin, Campo 6 E1 Squero Vecchio, Corte 3 A4 Venier, Calle 3 B4
San Luca, Salizzada 7 A2 San Stin, Rio di 6 E1 Stagneri, Calle degli 7 B1 Venier, Calle 7 A2
Santa Lucia, Fondamenta 1 C5 Santa Ternità, Campo 8 E1 Stella, Calle 3 C4 Venier, Calle 8 E2
San Marco, Bacino di 7 B3 Santa Ternità, Rio di 8 E1 Stendardo, Campiello dello 5 A3 Venier, Corte 8 E2
San Marco, Calle Larga 7 B2 San Tomà, Campo 6 E1 Storione, Calle del 7 A1 Venier, Fondamenta 2 D3
San Marco, Canale di 8 E3 San Tomà, Rio Terrà 6 D1 Stretta, Calle 5 B3 Venier, Fondamenta 6 E4
San Marco, Piazza 7 B2 San Trovaso, Rio di 6 E4 Strope, Campo delle 2 D5 Venier, Fondamenta 6 F4
San Marcuola, Campo 2 E4 San Vidal, Campo 6 E3 Stua, Calle della 3 A4
San Marcuola, Rio di 2 F3 San Vidal, Rio 6 E3 Venier, Fondamenta
Sebastiano 4 D2
Santa Margherita, Campo 6 D2
Santa Margherita, Corte 6 D2
San Vio, Campo
San Vio, Rio di
6 F4
6 E4
T Venier, Piscina 6 E4
Santa Margherita, Rio di 5 C2 San Vio, Rio Terrà 6 F4 Tagliapietra, Calle dei 3 B4 Verde, Calle del 3 A4
Santa Maria del Giglio, Rio 6 F3 San Zaccaria, Campo 7 C2 Tana, Campo della 8 F3 Vergola, Calle 2 D4
Santa Maria Formosa, Calle San Zan Degolà, Rio di 2 E4 Tana, Fondamenta della 8 F3 Verona, Calle della 7 A2
Lunga 7 C1 San Zuane, Calle 2 D5 Tana, Rio della 8 F3 Verona, Rio della 7 A2
Santa Maria Formosa, San Zuane, Rio di 2 D5 Teatro, Calle del 2 F5 Veste, Calle delle 7 A3
Campo 7 C1 San Zulian, Merceria 7 B1 Teatro, Calle del 6 E3 Veste, Rio delle 7 A3
Santa Maria Formosa, San Zulian, Piscina 7 B1 Teatro, Calle del 7 A1 Vetrai, Rio dei 4 D3
Rio di 7 C1 San Zulian, Rio di 7 B1 Teatro, Campiello del 6 F2 Vetrai, Fondamenta dei 4 D3
Santa Maria Maggiore, Sansoni, Calle 2 F5 Teatro, Corte 7 A1 Vetturi o Falier, Calle 6 E3
Canale di 5 A1 Santissimo, Rio del 6 F3 Teatro, Ramo del 6 F2 Vida, Calle della 3 C4
Santa Maria Maggiore, Sanudo, Calle 6 E1 Teatro Vecchio, Calle 2 F5 Vida, Calle della 6 D2
Fondamenta di 5 B2 Saoneri, Calle 6 D2 Terese, Fondamenta delle 5 A3 Vida, Calle della 6 E1
Santa Maria Nova, Campo 3 B5 Saoneri, Calle 6 E1 Terese, Rio delle 5 A3 Vida, Calle della 8 E1
Santa Maria Novo, Saoneria, Calle della 6 D2 Terrà, Calle Dogana di 7 A1 Vida, Calle della 8 E2
Campiello 3 B5 Sartori, Calle dei 3 B4 Terrà, Rio 2 E4 Vin, Calle del 7 C2
San Marina, Campo 3 B5 Sartori, Fondamenta dei 3 B4 Terrà, Rio 6 E1 Vin, Fondamenta del 7 C2
San Marina, Rio di 3 C5 Sauro, Campo Nazario 2 D5 Testa, Calle della 3 C5 Vin, Rio del 7 C2
Santa Marta, Calle Larga 5 A3 Savio, Calle del 2 E5 Tintor, Calle del 1 B3 Vin, Riva del 7 A1
Santa Marta, Fondamenta 5 A3 Savorgnan, Fondamenta 1 C3 Tintor, Calle del 2 E5 Vinanti, Calle 6 D1
San Martin, Piscina 8 E2 Savorgnan, Parco 2 D4 Tintor, Rio del 5 B2 Viotti, Calle 5 B2
San Martino, Rio di 8 E2 Sbiacca, Calle della 5 C2 Tintoretto, Calle 6 D1 Visciga, Calle 2 D5
San Mattio, Calle 3 A5 Scalater, Calle dello 6 D2 Tintoria, Calle 1 C2 Vittorio Emanuele, Via 2 F4
San Maurizio, Campo 6 F3 Scale, Calle delle 7 A1 Tiracanna, Calle della 2 E3
San Maurizio, Rio di 6 F3 Scaletta, Calle 3 B5 Vivarini, Calle 4 D2
Tole, Barbaria della 4 D5
San Moisè, Campo 7 A3 Scalzi Bridge 1 C4 Volpi, Calle 4 F1
Tolentini, Campo dei 5 C1
San Moisè, Piscina 7 A3 Scalzi, Fondamenta degli 1 C4 Volti, Calle dei 3 B4
Tolentini, Fondamenta dei 5 C1
San Moisè, Rio 7 A3 Scarlatto, Calle del 1 B3 Volto, Calle 1 B5
Toletta, Calle 6 D3
San Moisè, Salizzada 7 A3 Schiavoni, Riva degli 8 D2 Volto, Calle del 3 C4
Toletta, Calle della 6 D3
San Nicoletto, Ramo 6 D1 Scoazzera, Rio Terrà 5 C3 Toletta, Rio della 6 D3
San Nicolò, Campo 5 A3 Scoazzera, Rio Terrà della 6 F1 Torelli, Calle 3 C5 W
San Nicolò, Rio di 5 A3 Scomenzera, Canale 5 A1 Torrette, Rio delle 2 D2
San Pantalon, Calle 6 D2 Scudi, Calle degli 8 E1 Widman, Calle 3 B5
Toscana, Calle 7 A1
San Pantalon, Campo 6 D2 Scuola, Calle della 5 A5 Widman, Campiello 3 C4
Traghetto, Calle del 3 B4
San Pantalon, Rio 6 D1 Scuola, Calle della 6 F5 Traghetto, Calle del 6 D3
San Pantalon, Salizzada 5 C1 Secchi, Rio Terrà dei 5A3 Traghetto, Calle del 6 E2 Z
San Paternian, Calle 7 A2 Seconda del Milion, Corte 3 B5 Traghetto, Calle del 6 F2
San Paternian, Salizzada 7 A2 Seconda delle Do Corti, Zambelli, Calle 2 E5
Traghetto, Calle del 7 A3
San Polo, Campo 6 F1 Calle 1 C3 Zanardi, Calle 3 B4
Traghetto, Campo del 7 A3
San Polo, Rio di 6 E1 Seconda Saoneri, Calle 6 E1 Zancani, Calle 2 F3
Traghetto di Santa Lucia,
San Polo, Salizzada 6 E1 Secondo, Rio Terrà 2 E5 Zattere ai Gesuati,
Calle 1 C5
San Provolo, Calle 7 C2 Senigallia, Calle 5 A5 Fondamenta 6 D4
Traghetto Garzoni,
San Provolo, Campo 7 C2 Sensa, Fondamenta della 2 E2 Zattere ai Saloni,
Calle del 6 E2
San Provolo, Rio di 7 C2 Sensa, Rio della 2 D2 Fondamenta 7 A4
Trapolin, Fondamenta 3 A3
San Provolo, Salizzada 7 C2 Serenella, Canale 4 D2 Zattere Allo Spirito Santo,
Tre Ponti, Campazzo 5 B1
San Rocco, Campo 6 D1 Serenella, Fondamenta 4 D3 Fondamenta 6 E4
Tre Ponti, Fondamenta 5 C1
San Rocco, Salizzada 6 D1 Seriman, Salizzada 3 B4 Zattere Ponte Lungo,
Tredici Martiri, Calle 7 A3
San Salvador, Campo 4 E2 Servi, Rio dei 2 F3 Fondamenta 5 C4
Trevisan, Calle 6 D4
San Salvador, Rio di 7 A1 Sette Martiri, Riva dei 8 F3 Zecca 7 B3
Trevisan, Calle dei 3 A3
San Salvatore, Merceria 7 B1 Soccorso, Fondamenta del 5 C3 Zecchini, Rio degli 2 F2
Trevisan, Campiello dei 3 A3
San Samuele, Campo 6 E3 Sole, Calle del 2 F5 Zen, Calle 2 D4
Trevisana, Calle 7 C1
San Samuele, Piscina 6 F2 Soranzo detta Fornace, Zen, Calle 8 D1
Tron, Calle 2 F4
San Samuele, Salizzada 6 E2 Fondamenta 6 F4 Zen, Fondamenta 3 A4
Tron, Campiello 5 A3
San Sebastiano, Soriana, Calle 5 C1
Tron, Fondamenta 5 A3 Zen, Ramo 2 D4
Fondamenta 5 C3 Sottoportico Molin, Calle 6 F4
Turella, Campiello 4 E3 Zitelle, Fondamenta delle 7 B5
San Sebastiano, Rio di 5 C3 Sottoportico Scuro,
Turlona, Calle 2 E2 Zocco, Calle del 7 B1
Santi Sebastiano, Calle del 1 C3
Zoccolo, Calle dello 2 F3
Fondamenta 4 E1 Spadaria, Calle 7 B2
San Severo, Fondamenta di 7 C1 Specchieri, Calle 7 B2 U Zolfo, Ramo dello 2 E3
San Severo, Rio di 7 C1 Specchieri, Salizzada dei 3 B3 Zorzi, Calle 7 B2
Ungheria, Calle 7 A2
San Silvestro, Rio Terrà 7 A1 Speziali, Ruga degli 3 A5 Zorzi, Calle 8 D1
Zorzi, Salizzada 7 C1
San Simeon Piccolo,
Fondamenta 1 C5
Spezier, Calle
Spezier, Calle dello
6 F1
2 C4
V Zorzi Bragadin,
San Simeon Profeta, Spezier, Calle dello 6 F2 Vallaresso, Calle 7 B3 Fondamenta 6 F4
Campo 2 D4 Spezier, Calle dello 6 F3 Vaporetto, Calle del 5 A5 Zotti, Calle 3 A4
San Simeon Profeta, Sporca, Calle 5 B2 Varisco, Calle 3 B4 Zotti, Calle degli 6 E2
Campo 2 D5 Squero, Calle 7 A3 Vecchi, Corte dei 5 C3 Zucchero, Calle dello 6 F4
Santa Sofia, Campo 3 A5 Squero, Calle dello 2 D2 Vecchia, Corte 3 A3 Zudio, Calle 2 E3
Santa Sofia, Rio di 3 A4 Squero, Calle dello 3 B4 Vele, Calle delle 3 A4 Zusto, Salizzada 2 D5
302  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Architecture Basilica San Marco (Venice) 44, 59,
main entries Building of Venice 24–5 76, 82–7
The Venetian Palazzo 26–7 exploring 86–7
100 Club (London) 158, 159 The Villas of Palladio 28–9 inside 84–5
333 (London) 158, 159 Arco della Costa (Verona) 200 itineraries 10, 12
Arco Foscari (Doge’s Palace) 88 street-by-street map 79
A Arco dei Gavi (Verona) 196 Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 13,
Abano Terme 188 The Arena (Verona) 42, 43, 191, 197 165, 186–7
Abbeys itineraries 13, 14 Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato
Abbazia di Praglia (Abano Terme) Opera at the Arena 260–61 (Venice) 157
188 Armenians 159 Bassano, Jacopo 176, 177, 178
Abbazia San Gregorio (Venice) 74 Armeria (Doge’s Palace) 92–3 Bassano del Grappa 10, 15, 176
Follina 177 Arquà Petrarca 11, 15, 188 hotels 234
see also Cathedrals; Churches; restaurants 247 restaurants 247
Monasteries and convents Arrigoni, Abbot Onorio 145 Bavarian settlers 27
Accademia (Venice) 51, 58, 72, 127, Arsenale (Venice) 59, 112, 113, 123 Beaches 263
134–7 Biennale 260 Lido 160–61
exploring the collection 136–7 history 49 Bellini, Gentile 136, 137
floor plan 134–5 Art Bellini, Giovanni 30, 31, 47
itineraries 12, 13 courses 262, 265 Accademia (Venice) 136
Accademia Bridge (Venice) 72, 104 Styles in Venetian Art 30–31 Castelvecchio (Verona) 195
Accessories, shopping for 253, 255 Art galleries see Museums and Doge’s Palace (Venice) 92
Address system (Venice) 282 galleries Eremitani Museums (Padua) 183
Adige River 42, 191, 195, 196, 199, Ascension Dome (Basilica San Maddona dell’Orto (Venice) 144
204 Marco) 82, 85 Madonna and Child with Saints 31,
Admission prices 269, 271 Asolo 11, 15, 177 119
The Adoration of the Shepherds hotels 234 Pietà 78
(Veronese) 120 restaurants 247 San Giobbe (Venice) 136, 149
Adria 189 Assumption of the Virgin (Titian) 47, San Giovanni Grisostomo (Venice)
Adriatic 21 106 147
Venetian domination of 48–9 Ateste people 188 San Zaccaria (Venice) 116
Affi 214 ATMs 274 Santa Corona (Vicenza) 173
Age and Youth (Veronese) 93 Atrium (Basilica San Marco) 86, 87 Bellini, Jacopo 136
Agordo 225 Attila the Hun 44 Bellini family 31, 136
Air travel 278–9 Attila’s Throne (Torcello) 155 Belluno 13, 15, 217, 224
Ala Napoleon (Venice) 78 Augustus Caesar 204 hotels 235
Alaric 43 Auronzo mountain refuge 221 map 224
Alberoni 161 Austro-Hungarian empire 217 restaurants 249
Alemagna, Giovanni d’ 108, 116, Autumn 39 Bembo, Cardinal Pietro 177
137 Avenzo, Jacopo 187 Bembo, Pietro 69
Alexander III, Pope 45, 86 Benavides, Marco 183
Alleghe 225 B Benetton 55
Alpe del Nevegal 224 B&Bs 230, 231 Benvenuti, Augusto 124
restaurants 249 Bacanal del Gnoco (Verona) 36 Berengar I of Italy 45
Altichiero da Zevio 187 Bacchus and Ariadne (Tintoretto) 91 Biblioteca Marciana (Venice) 79
Ambulances 272, 273 Balbi, Nicolò 70 Biennale (Venice) 38, 53, 123,
Ammannati, Bartolomeo 183 Banking 274 125, 161, 260
Anafesta, Doge Paoluccio 44 Baptistry (Basilica San Marco) 83, 87 Biennale Pavilions (Venice) 53,
Ando, Tadao 139 Baptistry (Padua) 13, 166, 180, 186 125
Andraz 221 Baptistry (Verona) 201 Birds
Angelo Raffaele (Venice) 132 Barattieri, Niccolò 81 birdwatching 264, 265
Angels in Armour (Guariento) 183 Barbaro, Giustiniana 29 Caorle 179
Annigoni, Pietro 176 Barbaro, Marcantonio 29 Po Delta 189, 264
Annunciation (Carpaccio) 148 Bardolino 210, 214 Black Death 46
Anthony of Padua, St 186–7 Grape Festival 39 Boat trips
Antonio Canova Airport (Treviso) Baroque palazzi 27 boat hire 263
279, 281 Barovier, Angelo 157 Lake Garda 211
Anzano 225 Bars and cafés 250–51 traghetti 283
Apartments 230–31 see also Food and drink; vaporetti 284–5
Aperatifs 241 Restaurants; Wine Venetian Lagoon 263
The Apothecary’s Shop (Longhi) 134 Bartolo, Giovanni di 196 see also Gondolas
Aqua alta (Venice) 55 “Basilica” (Palazzo della Ragione) Bocca di Leone (Venice) 46, 47,
Arabba 220 (Vicenza) 13, 15, 172 93, 133
Archaeology museums see Basilica di Monte Berico (Vicenza) Bolca 193, 205, 207
Museums and galleries 13, 173 Bolzano 220, 222
GENERAL INDEX  303
Bon, Bartolomeo Ca’ 27 (cont.) Canaletto 67, 117, 137

Ca’d’Oro wellhead (Venice) 148 Ca’Genovese (Venice) 74 Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 130
San Marco Campanile (Venice) 80 Ca’Grande (Venice) 73 St Mark’s Basin on Ascension Day
San Rocco (Venice) 108 Ca’da Mosto (Venice) 67 50–51
Santa Maria della Carità (Venice) Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 14, 59, 67, 148 Upper Reaches of the Grand Canal
134 Ca’Pesaro (Venice) 27, 66, 98, 109 33
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 12, 13, 51, Cangrande I of Verona 46, 194, 195,
(Venice) 106 58, 70, 129, 130 213
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice) see also Palaces tomb 199, 200
120 Cable cars Cangrande II of Verona 195, 196
Santo Stefano (Venice) 97 Arabba 220 Cannaregio (Venice) 14, 19, 140–49
Scuola Grande di San Rocco Cortina d’Ampezzo 220 area map 140–41
(Venice) 110 Marmolada 222 bars and cafés 250–51
Book shops 254, 255 Monte Baldo 215 hotels 234
Bordone, Paris 178 Cabot, John 124 restaurants 245–6
Bosch, Hieronymous 92 Cadore 132 street-by-street map 142–3
Bosco del Cansiglio 225 Cafés see Bars and cafés Canoeing 263
Bosco Chiesanuova 207 Caffè Florian (Venice) 50, 78, 250, Canova, Antonio 68, 73, 176
Boscochiesanuova, restaurants 248 251 Casa di Canova (Passagno) 177
Bottacin Museum (Padua) 183 Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua) 13, 23, 50, Museo Correr (Venice) 81
Brancusi, Constantin, Maiastra 138 181, 182 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Breakdown services 287 Caffè Quadri (Venice) 50, 78, 250, (Venice) 107
Breakfasts, in hotels 229 251 tomb 177
Brenner Pass 191 fresco 34–5 Cansigrande 201
Brenta Canal 13, 14, 186–7 Calle Buccari (Venice) 125 Canto della Stella (Desenzano) 36
water sports 263 Calle Larga XXII Marzo (Venice) 95 Caorle 179, 263
Bridge of Sighs (Venice) 89, 93, 114, Calle della Madonna (Venice) 103 festivals 38, 260
117 Calle Stretta (Venice) 102 restaurants 247
Bridges 25 Campanile (Basilica San Marco, Cappella see Chapels
Britten, Benjamin 53 Venice) 10, 12, 19, 75, 80 Cappello, Bianca 114
Bronze door panels (San Zeno collapse of 25, 52, 53, 80 Car travel
Maggiore, Verona) 203 foundations 25, 80 arriving by car 280
Browning, Pen 70, 130 street-by-street map 79 car hire 281
Browning, Robert 52, 70, 130, 177 Campanile (San Giorgio dei Greci, theft from cars 272
Brusazorzi, Domenico 172 Venice) 116 Carnival 20, 36
Brustolon, Andrea 130, 224 Campanile (San Pietro di Castello, entertainment 259
Bucintoro 51, 122, 123 Venice) 124 Venetian Masks and the Carnival
Budget accommodation 230, 231 Campanile (San Zeno Maggiore, 34–5
Budget food 237 Verona) 201 Carpaccio, Vittore
Buora, Giovanni 118 Campanile (Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Accademia (Venice) 104, 137
Burano (Venice) 150, 153, 156 Frari, Venice) 107 Annunciation 148
itineraries 10, 12, 13 Campiello Barbaro (Venice) 138–9 Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 148
lace 256 Campo dell’Abbazia (Venice) 143 Cycle of St Ursula 58, 135, 137
restaurants 246 Campo del Ghetto Nuovo (Venice) Doge’s Palace (Venice) 92
Bureaux de change 274 149 Healing of the Madman 137
Bus travel 286–7 Campo Manin (Venice) 95 Museo Correr (Venice) 81
Byron, Lord 51, 71, 159, 160 Campo dei Mori 141, 142, 144 Portrait if a Young Man in a Red Hat
Byzantine Gothic art 30 Campo Ruga (Venice) 124 81
Byzantine palazzi 26 Campo San Barnaba (Venice) 130 St George Slaying the Dragon 122
Byzantium Campo San Bartolomeo (Venice) 98 San Domenico (Chioggia) 189
artistic influence 30 Campo San Fantin (Venice) 94 San Giobbe (Venice) 149
trade links with 44 Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio Scuola di San Giorgio degli
Venetian conquest and rule 41, (Venice) 13, 108 Schiavoni (Venice) 122
46–7 Campo San Polo (Venice) 101, 105 Casa Adoldo (Venice) 63
Campo San Simeone Grande Casa di Canova (Passagno) 177
C (Venice) 63 Casa di Cima (Conegliano) 179
Ca’ 27 Campo Santa Margherita (Venice) Casa di Giorgione (Castelfranco) 177
Ca’Corner della Regina (Venice) 66 12, 127, 129, 131 Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 13, 14,
Ca’Corner-Martinengo-Ravà Campo Santa Maria Formosa 199, 201
(Venice) 68 (Venice) 13, 118 Casa di Goldoni (Venice) 105
Ca’dei Cuori (Venice) 64 Campo Santa Maria Mater Domini Casa di Petrarca (Arquà Petrarca) 188
Ca’Dario (Venice) 73, 138–9 (Venice) 24–5 Casa Pigafetta (Vicenza) 171, 172
Ca’Favretto (Venice) 66 Campo Santo Stefano (Venice) 97 Casa di Romeo (Verona) 201
Ca’Foscari (Venice) 26, 70, 129 Camposilvano 207 Casa di Tiziano (Pieve di Cadore)
Ca’Foscarini (Venice) 66 Campsites 230, 231 15, 221
Casanova 50 Chapels Churches (cont.)

escape 91 Basilica San Marco (Venice) 87 San Giorgio (Monselice) 189
prison cell 93 Cappella del Rosario (Santi San Giovanni in Bragora (Venice)
Casetta Dandolo (Venice) 68 Giovanni e Paolo, Venice) 120 122
Casetta delle Rose (Venice) 73 Cappella di San Domenico (Santi San Giovanni Evangelista (Venice)
Casinos 260, 261 Giovanni e Paolo, Venice) 121 27, 108
Castelfranco 177 Corner Chapel (Santi Apostoli, San Giovanni in Fonte (Verona) 201
restaurants 247 Venice) 147 San Giovanni Grisostomo (Venice)
Castello (Venice) 19, 112–25 Mascoli Chapel (Basilica San 147
area map 113 Marco, Venice) 84 San Giuseppe (Venice) 125
bars and cafés 250–51 Scrovegni Chapel (Padua) 13, 46, San Lorenzo (Venice) 119
exploring Eastern Castello 124–5 183, 184–5 San Lorenzo (Vicenza) 173
hotels 233 see also Cathedrals; Churches San Marcuola (Venice) 65
restaurants 244 Chariot racing 42 San Marziale (Venice) 142, 145
street-by-street map 114–15 Charlemagne 44 San Michele on Isola (San Michele)
Castles and fortifications Children 157
Castel San Pietro (Verona) 204 entertainment for 260 San Moisè (Venice) 12, 95, 96
Castello di Andraz 221 in hotels 229 San Nicolò (Lido) 161
Castello Giulietta (Montecchio in restaurants 237 San Nicolò (Treviso) 178
Maggiore) 206 travelling with 270, 271 San Nicolò dei Mendicoli (Venice)
Castello Inferiore (Marostica) 176 Chioggia 165, 167, 169, 189 127, 132
Castello di Monselice 189 hotels 234 San Nicolò da Tolentino (Venice)
Castello Porto-Colleoni (Thiene) itineraries 13, 15 108
176 restaurants 247 San Pantalon (Venice) 108
Castello Romeo (Montecchio Chioggia, Battle of 47 San Pietro (Belluno) 224
Maggiore) 206 Churches San Pietro (Sirmione) 213
Castello Superiore (Marostica) 176 admission prices 269 San Pietro di Castello (Venice) 82,
Castelvecchio (Conegliano) 179 opening hours 269 124
Castelvecchio (Verona) 13, 43, 191, Abbazia San Gregorio (Venice) 74 San Polo (Venice) 105
195 Angelo Raffaele (Venice) 132 San Rocco (Feltre) 225
Castle Rocca (Monselice) 189 Basilica di Monte Berico (Vicenza) San Rocco (Venice) 108
Feltre 225 13, 173 San Salvatore (Venice) 98
Fortezza del Quadrilatero Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 13, San Samuele (Venice) 71
(Peschiera) 211 165, 186–7 San Sebastiano (Venice) 127, 132
Rocca di Riva (Riva del Garda) 215 Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato San Simeone Piccolo (Venice) 63
Rocca Scaligera (Sirmione) 14, 212 (Venice) 157 San Stae (Venice) 65, 109
Rocca Scaligera (Soave) 206 Eremitani Church (Padua) 183 San Trovaso (Venice) 133
Sant’Andrea (Le Vignole) 161 Gesuati (Venice) 127, 133 San Vidal (Venice) 13, 259
Sirmione 164 Gesuiti (Santa Maria Assunta) San Zaccaria (Venice) 115, 116
Catallus 42, 213 (Venice) 146 San Zeno Maggiore (Verona) 13,
Cathedrals Madonna dell’Orto (Venice) 14, 55, 14, 45, 191, 202–3
Basilica San Marco (Venice) 10, 12, 140, 141, 142, 144 San Zulian (Venice) 99
44, 59, 79, 82–7 Oratorio dei Crociferi (Venice) 145 Santa Corona (Vicenza) 172–3
Duomo (Belluno) 224 Oratorio di San Giorgio (Padua) 187 Santa Fosca (Torcello) 155
Duomo (Caorle) 179 Ospedaletto (Venice) 119 Santa Margherita (Venice) 131
Duomo (Castelfranco) 177 La Pietà (Venice) 49, 50, 115, 116 Santa Maria Antica (Verona) 199,
Duomo (Cittadella) 177 Il Redentore (Giudecca) 152, 158 200–201
Duomo (Conegliano) 179 La Rotonda (Rovigo) 189 Santa Maria della Carità (Venice)
Duomo (Montagnana) 188 San Barnaba (Venice) 130 134
Duomo (Padua) 13, 180, 186 San Cassiano (Venice) 102, 105 Santa Maria dei Carmini (Venice)
Duomo (Santa Maria Matricolare) San Domenico (Chioggia) 189 128, 131
(Verona) 201 San Fantin (Venice) 94 Santa Maria Formosa (Venice) 118
Duomo (Treviso) 178 San Fermo Maggiore (Verona) 196 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari 13,
Duomo (Vicenza) 170 San Francesco al Corso (Verona) 58, 101, 106–7
Torcello 44, 45, 154–5 201 Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Venice)
see also Abbeys; Chapels; San Francesco della Vigna (Venice) 14, 146
Churches; Monasteries and 119 Santa Maria di Nazareth (Venice) 62
convents San Geremia (Venice) 64 Santa Maria in Organo (Verona)
Catinaccio (Rosengarten) range San Giacomo dell’Orio (Venice) 108 205
222 San Giacomo di Rialto (Venice) Santa Maria della Salute (Venice)
Catullus 200 103, 104 3, 18, 49, 59, 75, 139
Causeway (Venice) 51, 53 San Giobbe (Venice) 149 Santa Maria della Visitazione
Cavallino (island) 37 San Giorgio in Braida (Verona) 190, (Venice) 133
Cellore d’Illasi, festivals 37 205 Santa Maria Zobenigo (Venice)
Ceneda (Vittorio Veneto) 225 San Giorgio dei Greci (Venice) 94, 96
Ceramics, shopping for 256 115, 116 Sant’Anastasia (Verona) 199, 201
Ceremonial gondolas 32 San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 14, Sant’Anna (Venice) 125
Chamois 223 77, 99 Sant’Aponal (Venice) 102
Churches (cont.) Contarini, Marino 148 Dante Alighieri 46, 194, 215
Sant’Elena (Venice) 125 Contarini family 96 statue (Verona) 198, 200
Santi Apostoli (Venice) 147 Contino, Bernardino 98 Dario, Giovanni 138–9
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice) 13, Contrà Porti (Vicenza) 14, 170, De’Barbari, Jacopo 81
47, 113, 120–21 172 Debit cards 274
Santo Stefano (Belluno) 224 Conversion chart 270 Del Castagno, Andrea 116
Santo Stefano (Venice) 97 Cookery courses 262, 265 Del Zotto, Antonio 98
Santo Stefano (Verona) 204 Cooper, James Fenimore 68 Dentists 273
Scalzi (Santa Maria di Nazareth) Cordevole valley 221, 225 Department stores 254, 255
(Venice) 149 Cornaro, Caterina, Queen of Cyprus Deposito del Megio (Venice) 64
Le Zitelle (Giudecca) 158 47, 98, 147, 177 Desenzano 14, 210
see also Abbeys; Cathedrals; Cornaro, Giacomo 73 festivals 36, 260
Chapels; Monasteries and Corner, Marco 147 Diaghilev, Sergei 52, 53, 157
convents Corno d’Aquilio 207 Dialectic (Veronese) 92
Cima da Conegliano 122, 131, 144 Coronation of the Virgin (Giambono) La Direzione Comparimentale
Casa di Cima (Conegliano) 179 136 (Venice) 62
Cinemas 259, 261 Coronation of the Virgin (Veneziano) Disabled travellers 269, 271
Cini, Count Vittorio 99 30, 135, 136 entertainment 259
Cinque Torri 221, 222 Correr, Abbot Teodoro 81 in hotels 230
Cipriani, Giuseppe 96 Corso Cavour (Verona) 196 in restaurants 237
Cittadella 177 Cortina d’Ampezzo 217, 218, 220, Discos 260, 261
Climate 36–9 221, 222 Dito di Dio 216
when to go 268 hotels 235 Doges
Climbing 263, 265 itineraries 11, 15 elections 47
Clothing, shopping for 253, 255, 257 restaurants 249 see also by name
Clubs 260, 261 Winter Olympics 53, 217, 220 Doge’s Palace (Venice) 47, 59, 75,
Coach travel 280, 281 winter sports 264, 265 88–93
Coducci, Mauro Coryate, Thomas 205 architecture 26
Palazzo Corner Spinelli (Venice) 71 Costumes exploring 92–3
Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Carnival 34–5 inside 90–91
(Venice) 65 shopping for 253, 255 itineraries 10, 12
San Giovanni Evangelista (Venice) Council of Ten (Venice) 46, 92–3, special tours 91
108 133, 149, 158 street-by-street map 79
San Giovanni Grisostomo (Venice) Courier services 277 wellhead 24, 90
147 Crafts 256 Dolo, restaurants 247
San Michele in Isola (Venice) 157 courses 262, 265 Dolomieu, Déodat de 50
San Pietro di Castello (Venice) 124 Credit cards 274 The Dolomites 165, 167, 216–25
San Zaccaria (Venice) 115, 116 in hotels 230 distinctive peaks 222–3
Santi Apostoli (Venice) 147 in shops 252 Dolomite Road tour 11, 220–21
Scuola Grande di San Marco Crime 272 formation of 222
(Venice) 118 Cross-country skiing 264 getting around 219
Torre dell’Orologio (Venice) 80 Crucifixion (Tintoretto) 102, 110 horseriding 264
Coffee 241 Cruise ships 279, 281 hotels 235
Colle di Santa Lucia 225 Crusades itineraries 15
Collegiate Rooms (Doge’s Palace) 91 First 44, 45 map 218–19
Colleoni, Bartolomeo, statue of Fourth 45 nature in the Dolomites 223
118 Oratorio dei Crociferi (Venice) 145 restaurants 249
Colonna di San Marco (Verona) 198, San Clemente (Venice) 161 Strada delle Dolomiti 222
200 Currency 274–5 walking and climbing 263, 265
Colonnade (Doge’s Palace) 90 Customs information 268, 271, 278 winter sports 264, 265
Columbine 35 Cuzzano 206 Donà, Doge Leonardo 48, 80
Columns of San Marco and San Cycle of St Ursula (Carpaccio) 58, 135, Donatello
Teodoro (Venice) 79, 81 137 Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 186
Communications 276–7 Cycling 26, 261 Statue of Gattamelata (Padua) 182,
Concordia Sagittaria 179 Cyprus 47, 48 187
Conegliano 177, 179 La Donna Partigiana (Venice) 125
hotels 235 D Dont 225
restaurants 247 Da Niel, Joseph 114 Dorsoduro (Venice) 18, 126–39
Congress of Vienna 51 Da Ponte, Antonio 104 area map 126–7
Conservation 54–5 Da Porto, Luigi 172, 201 bars and cafés 250–51
Conservatory of Music (Venice) 97 Dalí, Salvador 117 hotels 233–4
Constantine the Great 43 Dalle Masegne brothers 87 restaurants 245
Constantinople 43 Dandolo, Doge Andrea 69, 87 street-by-street map 128–9
bronze horses from 86 Dandolo, Doge Enrico 46, 68, 69 Drinks see Food and drink; Wine
siege of 46–7 Dandolo, Marco 96 Driving 280–81, 287
Venetian links with 30 Dandolo family 69 Dunant, Henri 211
Consulates 271 D’Annunzio, Gabriele 73 Duomo see Cathedrals
Contarini, Gasparo 143 Villa il Vittoriale (Gardone) 214 Duty free allowances 268
E Festa di San Marco (Venice) 37 Gambello, Antonio 116, 123

Economy 22 Festa di Santi Pietro e Paolo 38 Gambling 50
Electricity 270 Festa della Sparesea (Cavallino) 37 Gambling at the Ridotto (Guardi)
Email 277 Festivals 36–9, 260 34
Embassies 271 Film festivals 39, 161 Garda 211
Emergencies 272, 273 Film sets hotels 235
Emo, Angelo 62, 65 Venice 54, 160 restaurants 248
Entertainment 258–61 Villa Rotonda (Vicenza) 173 Garda, Lake see Lake Garda
booking tickets 258 Vittorio Veneto 225 Gardaland® Resort 211, 260
casinos, clubs and discos 260, 261 Fini, Vincenzo 95 Gardens see Parks and gardens
for children 260 Fire services 272, 273 La Gardesana 211
cinema 259, 261 Fish dishes 238–9 Gardini, Raul 139
exhibitions 260 Flats 230–31 Gardone Riviera 214
facilities for the disabled 259 Flavours of Venice and the Veneto festivals 37
information sources 258 238–9 Gargagnago 215
festivals 260 The Flight into Egypt (Tintoretto) 111 Garibaldi 124
music 259, 260, 261 Floating accommodation 230, 231 Gaspari, Antonio 109
pageants 260 Floods 21, 54–5 Geneva Convention 211
theatre 259, 260, 261 Flora, Dolomites 223 Gesuati (Venice) 127, 133
Epiphany 36 Follina 177 Gesuati Order 133
Eremitani Church (Padua) 183 hotels 235 Gesuiti (Santa Maria Assunta)
Eremitani Museums (Padua) 13, Fondaco dei Tedeschi (Venice) 69 (Venice) 146
183 Fondaco dei Turchi (Venice) 26, 64 The Ghetto 48, 58, 149
Erizzo, Paolo 65 Fondamenta Gasparo Contarini Giambono, Michele 133
Ernst, Max 138 (Venice) 143 Coronation of the Virgin 136
Este 43, 188–9 Fondamenta Gherardini (Venice) Giant’s Staircase (Doge’s Palace)
Etiquette 269 128 88, 92
Euganean Hill 15, 167, 188 Fondamenta del Megio (Venice) 18 Giardinetti Reali (Venice) 75, 78
horseriding 264 Fondamenta della Misericordia Giardini Pubblici (Venice) 125, 260
spa holidays 264 (Venice) 143 Giardino Giusti (Verona) 13, 191,
Eugani 42 Fondamenta della Sensa (Venice) 205
The Euro 275 142, 145 Giazza 164, 207
Evelyn, John 99, 205 Fondamente Nuove (Venice) 145 Gift shops 254, 255
Exhibitions 260 Fondazione Querini Stampalia Giordano, Luca 117
(Venice) 118 Giorgio Franchetti Collection
F Food and drink 148
Fabric shops 253, 255 Flavours of Venice and the Veneto Giorgione 30, 111, 147
Façades 238–9 Accademia (Venice) 136
palazzi 26 shopping for 254, 255, 257 Casa di Giorgione (Castelfranco)
Palladian villas 28, 29 What to Drink in Venice and the 177
Venetian buildings 25 Veneto 240–41 The Tempest 134, 136
Falier, Doge Marin 47, 72, 91, 93 see also Bars and cafés; Giotto 185
Fallopio, Gabriele 182 Restaurants; Wine Eremitani Museums (Padua) 183
Falzarego 221 Forno di Zoldo 224–5 Scrovegni Chapel frescoes (Padua)
Fares see Prices Fortezza del Quadrilatero 46, 184–5
Fashion shops 253, 255 (Peschiera) 211 Giovanni da Verona, Fra 205
Favretto, Giacomo 66 Fortuny y Madrazo, Mariano 98 Giudecca (Venice) 152, 158
Feast in the House of Levi (Veronese) Foscari, Doge Francesco 63, 70, hotels 234
136–7 107 restaurants 246
Federalism 22 Foscarini, Antonio 109 Gladiators 43, 197, 204
Feltre 217, 225 Foscarini, Marco 67 Glass
festivals 38, 260 Fossils 205, 207 glass blowing 55, 157
hotels 235 Franchetti, Baron Giorgio 67, 148 glass-making courses 262
La Fenice (Venice) 94, 97, 259, 261 Freccia nel Cielo (Cortina d’Ampezzo) Murano 156–7
Around La Fenice street-by-street 220 shopping for 253, 255, 256
94–5 Frederick, Archduke of Austria 73 Glory of St Dominic (Piazzetta) 121
history 50, 51 Frederick I Barbarossa, Holy Roman Gobbo of the Rialto statue (Venice)
itineraries 12 Emperor 45, 86 103, 104
Ferrari, Ettore 115 Frezzeria (Venice) 95 Goldoni, Carlo 98
Ferries 279, 281 Friso, Alvise dal 132 Casa di Goldoni (Venice) 105
Ferro (gondolas) 32, 33 Fumiani, Gian Antonio 108 Golf 260, 261, 264, 265
Festa dell’Assunta (Vittorio Veneto) Funeral gondolas 33 Gondolas 78, 283
38–9 decoration 32–3
Festa Medioevale del Vino Suove G Gondolas and gondoliers
Bianco (Soave) 37 Galilei, Galileo 48, 182 32–3
Festa del Mosto (Sant’Erasmo) 39 Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Venice) 66, Squero di San Trovaso (Venice)
Festa del Redentore (Venice) 38, 158 109 133
Festa della Salute (Venice) 39 Galleries see Museums and galleries Gothic palazzi 26
Goths 42, 43, 44, 179 Hotel Cipriani (Venice) 14, 158 L
Grancona, restaurants 247 Hotel Danieli (Venice) 114, 116–17 La Vecia (Gardone) 37
Grand Canal (Venice) 2–3, 60–75 Hotel Excelsior (Lido) 52 Labia family 147
Ca’Rezzonico to the Guggenheim Hotels 228–35 Lace (Burano) 146, 256
72–3 booking and paying 230 lace-making demonstrations 262
fourth bridge opens 55 boutique 230 Lagoon Islands (Venice) 150–61
itineraries 10, 11, 12 children in 229 bars and cafés 250–51
Palazzo Barbarigo to the Markets disabled travellers in 230 exploring the Lagoon 152–3
66–7 The Dolomites 235 getting around 153
Rialto Quarter 68–9 gradings and facilities 229 hotels 234
San Geremia to San Stae 64–5 hidden extras 228–9 map 151
Santa Lucia to Palazzo Flangini in historic buildings 230 restaurants 246
62–3 prices 228 Lake Garda 23, 164, 191, 208–15
To La Salute and San Marco recommended 231 boat trips 211
74–5 The Veneto 234–5 festivals 38
La Volta del Canal 70–71 Veneto Plain 234–5 hotels 235
Grand Council (Venice) 46, 47 Venice 232–4 itineraries 11, 13, 14
Grand Hotel (Gardone) 214 Verona and Lake Garda 235 maps 192–3, 210
Grappa 176, 241 what to expect 229 restaurants 248–9
Green travel 282 where to look 228 water sports 263
Grezzana 206 Houseboats 230, 231 Lake Misurina 162–3, 221, 223
Grimani, Doge Antonio 81 Houses, Venetian 27 Lake Sorapiss 216
Grimani, Doge Marino 125 Hruska Botanical Gardens (Gardone) Language
Grimani, Domenico 81 214 language courses 263, 265
Grimani, Giovanni, Patriarch of Huns 42, 43 phrase book 319–20
Acquileia 118 The Last Judgment (Torcello mosaic)
Grimani, Girolamo 68 I 30
Grimani, Vettore 118 Ice cream parlours (Venice) 250–51 Law, John 96
Grotte di Catullo (Sirmione) 14, Ice skating 264 Layard, Sir Austen Henry 71
213 Inquisition 137 Lazise 192, 214
Gruppo di Sella 220 Insect repellent 273 Lazzaretto Nuovo (island) 161
Guarana, Jacopo, Ospedaletto Insurance 273 Lazzaretto Vecchio (island) 153
fresco (Venice) 119 Interior design shops 253, 255 Le Corte, Giusto 139
Guardi, Antonio 132 International Film Festival (Venice) League of Cambrai 41, 48, 225
Guardi, Francesco 51 39, 53, 54, 55, 161, 259 Lent 34
Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 148 International Red Cross 211 Leo III, Pope 44
Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 130 Internet access 277 Leopardi, Alessandro 118
Gambling at the Ridotto 34 Interno Olandese (Miró) 138 Lepanto, Battle of 48
The Nun’s Parlour at San Zaccaria Ipato, Doge Orso 44 Leper colonies 159
116, 130 Isidore, St 87 Liberi, Pietro 71
Guariento di Arpo, Angels in Armour Isola della Scala, restaurants 248 Libreria Sansoviniana (Venice) 79, 81
183 Italian phrase book 319–20 Libri, Girolamo dai 205
Guggenheim, Peggy 52, 138 Italian Wars of Independence 51 Lido (Venice) 52–3, 152, 160–61
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Itineraries 10–15 hotels 234
(Venice) 73, 127, 138 One Week in Venice and the water sports 263
Guggenheim, Solomon R. 138 Veneto 10, 13 Lion of St Mark (Venice) 41, 81, 198,
Guided tours 283 Three Days in Venice 12–13 200
Two Days in Venice 12 Liqueurs 257
H Two Weeks in Venice and the Little Dolomites 191, 205, 206
Harry’s Bar (Venice) 75, 96, 250, 251 Veneto 11, 14–15 Livy 43
Hazards, minor 273 Loggetta (Campanile, Venice) 80
Healing of the Madman (Carpaccio) J Loggia del Capitaniato (Vicenza)
137 James, Henry 73, 110, 114, 115, 170, 172
Health 272–3 139 Loggia dei Cavalli (Basilica San
insurance 273 Jesolo 263 Marco) 86
Hellenic Institute icon museum Jesuits 146 Loggia del Consiglio (Verona) 200
(Venice) 116 Jewellery shops 253, 255 Loggia della Gran Guardia (Padua)
Hemingway, Ernest 75, 96 Jewish Cemetery (Lido) 161 180
Henry III of France 93, 123, 129 Jews 48, 149, 158 Lombardo, Antonio 92
History 40–55 John XXIII, Pope 53 Lombardo, Pietro 92, 106
Holocaust Memorial (Venice) 149 John Paul I, Pope 54 Duomo (Treviso) 178
Honorius, Emperor 204 Joseph II, Emperor of Austria 65 San Giobbe (Venice) 149
Horseriding 264, 265 Juliet see Romeo and Juliet San Giovanni Evangelista (Venice)
Horses of St Mark (Venice) 50, 82, Julius II, Pope 48 108
86 Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Venice)
Hospitals 273 K 146
Hostels 23, 231 Klimt, Gustav, Salome 109 Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice)
Hot springs, Euganean Hills 188, 264 Kublai Khan 46, 147 120–21
Lombardo, Pietro (cont.) Maps (cont.) Menabuoi, Giusto de’, Baptistry

Scuola Grande di San Marco Venice: at a Glance 58–9 fresco cycle (Padua) 166, 180, 186
(Venice) 118 Venice: Cannaregio area map Mendigola island (Venice) 127
Lombardo, Tullio 92, 98, 146, 147, 140–41 Menescardi, Giustino 131
148 Venice: Cannaregio street-by- Menus
Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) street 142–3 fixed-price 236
187 Venice: Castello area map 113 reading 237
Duomo (Belluno) 224 Venice: Castello street-by-street Mercerie (Venice) 99
San Rocco (Feltre) 225 114–15 Meschio gorge 225
Lombards 44 Venice: Central Venice 18–19 Mestre 22, 53, 55, 167, 179
Longhena, Baldassare 75, 120 Venice: Dorsoduro area map Michelangelo 104, 186
Ca’Pesaro (Venice) 109 126–7 Michiel, Doge Vitale II 117
Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 130 Venice: Dorsoduro street-by-street Mira 186
Ospidaletto (Venice) 119 128–9 Miretto, Nicola 182
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) Venice: Eastern Castello 124–5 Miró, Joan, Interno Olandese 138
139 Venice: Lagoon Islands 151, 152–3 Misurina 221, 223
Scalzi (Venice) 149 Venice: Piazza San Marco street- Mobile phones 276, 277
Longhi, Pietro 51, 130, 137 by-street 78–9 Mocenigo, Doge Alvise 65
The Apothecary’s Shop 134 Venice: San Marco area map 77 Mocenigo, Count Alvise Nicolò 109
Loredan, Doge Francesco 72 Venice: San Polo and Santa Croce Mocenigo, Pietro, tomb 120
Loredan, Doge Leonardo 48, 92 area map 101 Mocenigo family 109
Losey, Joseph 173 Venice: San Polo street-by-street Modena, Tommaso da 178
Lost/stollen property 273 102 Monasteries and convents
Lotto, Lorenzo 131, 178, 195 Venice: Street Finder 288–301 San Clemente (Venice) 161
Portrait of a Gentleman 136 Venice: Vaporetto routes see inside San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 99
Louis IX, King of France 172 back cover San Giorgio in Valpolicella 215
Lucy, St 64 Verona 194–5 San Lazzaro degli Armeni (Venice)
Luzzo, Lorenzo 225 Verona and Lake Garda 192–3 159
Verona street-by-street 198–9 San Nicolò (Lido) 161
M Vicenza street-by-street 170–71 San Servolo (Venice) 158
Madonna di Ca’Pesaro (Titian) 31 Marcello, Benedetto 65 Sant Apollonia (Venice) 114, 117
Madonna del Carmelo (Tiepolo) 126 Marcello, Doge Nicolò, tomb 120 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Madonna and Child with Saints Marco Polo Airport (Venice) 279, (Venice) 107
(Bellini) 31, 119 281 Santa Maria della Grazia (Venice)
Madonna of Nicopeia 87 Marghera 53, 54, 55, 179 159
Madonna dell’Orto (Venice) 14, 55, Marini, Marino 138 Sant’Anna (Venice) 125
140, 141, 142, 144 Maritime Venice 48–9 see also Abbeys; Cathedrals;
Madonna of Verona fountain 198, Mark, St 45 Churches
200 column (Venice) 79, 81 Monet, Claude 73
Magazines 277 relics 44, 45, 81, 82 Money 274–5
Magellan, Ferdinand 172 Markets 254 Monselice 189
Maiastra (Brancusi) 138 fish market (Chioggia) 189 Montagna, Bartolomeo 172, 173,
Malamocco 161 fish market (Treviso) 178 224
hotels 234 Piazza delle Erbe (Verona) 200 Montagna Spaccata 206
Malcesine 208–9, 210, 215 Rialto (Venice) 103, 104 Montagnana 29, 168, 188
hotels 235 Marmolada 218, 222 festivals 39, 260
restaurants 248 Marostica 176 Montanari, Giovanni Leoni 173
Manin, Daniele 50, 51 festivals 39, 260 Monte Baldo 191, 215
statue (Venice) 95 Marriage with the Sea (Venice) 37, Monte Berico (Vicenza) 21, 173
Manin, Doge Ludovico 62, 69 45, 161 Monte Pelmo 219
Mann, Thomas 52, 160 Masks 34–5 Monte Penna 225
Mantegna, Andrea 30, 136, 148, 183 shopping for 253, 255, 257 Monte Sorapiss 221, 223
San Zeno Maggiore (Verona) 202 Massari, Giorgio 65, 116, 130 Montecchio Maggiore 206
Maps Mastelli brothers 144 Montegrotto Terme 188
Belluno 224 Mastino I of Verona 201 hotels 235
The Dolomites 218–19 Mastino II of Verona 201 Monteverdi, Claudio 49, 116
Europe 16 Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor Monti Lessini 164, 191, 207, 214
itineraries 10–11 48, 225 skiing 264
Padua street-by-street 180–81 Mazzorbo (island) 156 Mooring posts 33
Putting Venice and the Veneto on restaurants 246 Morosini, Admiral Francesco 123
the Map 16–17 Mechitar (Manug di Pietro) 159 Morosini, Doge Francesco 97, 108
Strada delle Dolomiti 222 Media 276–7 Mosaics
Treviso 178 Medici, Cosimo de’ 105 Basilica San Marco (Venice) 59, 76,
The Veneto at a Glance 164–5 Medici, Francesco de’ 114 82–5, 86
The Veneto Plain 168–9 Medici, Lorenzino de’ 105 Torcello cathedral 154
Venice: in 1550 41 Medieval and Modern Art Museum MOSE flood barrier (Venice) 54
Venice: Around La Fenice street- (Padua) 183 Mosquitoes 273
by-street 94–5 Memling, Hans 172 Mosto, Alvise da 67
Mountain refuges 220, 230, 231 Museums and galleries (cont.) O

Auronzo 221 Museo Lapidario Maffeiano Oarsmen 143
Brigata Alpina Cadore 224 (Verona) 196 Oasi Valle Averto 264, 265
Mulino Stucky (Giudecca) 158 Museo Marciano (Basilica San Opening hours 269, 271
Murano (Venice) 152, 156–7 Marco) 86 restaurants 236
itineraries 10, 12, 13 Museo del Merletto (Burano) 156, shops and markets 252
restaurants 246 262 Opera Festival (Verona) 38, 197,
shopping for glass 253 Museo Naturalistico-Archeologico 260–61
Museums and galleries (Vicenza) 173 Oratorio dei Crociferi (Venice) 145
admission prices 269 Museo Nazionale Atestino (Este) Oratorio di San Giorgio (Padua) 187
opening hours 269 43, 188–9 Orient-Express 280, 281
Accademia (Venice) 12, 13, 51, 58, Museo Orientale (Venice) 66, 109 Orseolo, Doge Pietro 45, 78
72, 134–7 Museo del Risorgimento (Venice) 81 Orto Botanico (Padua) 13, 187
Archaeology Museum (Padua) 183 Museo di Storia Naturale (Venice) Ospedaletto (Venice) 119
Bottacin Museum (Padua) 183 64, 109 Ottoman Empire (Venice) 48, 123
Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 148 Museo Storico Navale (Venice) 13, Outdoor activities 262–5
Casa di Canova (Passagno) 177 49, 51, 122 Dolomites 223
Casa di Cima (Conegliano) 179 Museo del Tessuto e del Costume
Casa di Giorgione (Castelfranco) (Venice) 109 P
177 Museo del Vetro (Murano) 157 Padua 23, 165, 167, 180–87
Casa di Petrarca (Arquà Petrarca) Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza) festivals 38, 260
188 173 hotels 235
Casa di Tiziano (Pieve di Cadore) Peggy Guggenheim Collection itineraries 10, 11, 13, 14
15, 221 (Venice) 12, 13, 73, 127, 138 restaurants 247
Castelvecchio (Verona) 195 Punta della Dogana (Venice) 138, street-by-street map 180–81
Eremitani Museums (Padua) 13, 139 Padua University 46, 49, 181, 182
183 Quadreria (Venice) 81 Pal del Vo, festivals 38
Fondazione Querini Stampalia Salvador Dalí Universe (Venice) 117 Pala d’Oro (Basilica San Marco) 45,
(Venice) 118 Scuola Grande di San Rocco 85, 87
Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Venice) (Venice) 110–11 Palaces
66, 109 Music accommodation in 230
Galleria d’Arte Moderna Achille festivals 36, 38 Baroque 27
Forti (Verona) 200 Venice 259, 261 Byzantine 26
Hellenic Institute icon museum Verona 260, 261 Ca’Corner della Regina (Venice) 66
(Venice) 116 Musset, Alfred de 117 Ca’Corner-Martinengo-Ravà
Medieval and Modern Art Mussolini, Benito 53, 214 (Venice) 68
Museum (Padua) 183 Muttoni, Antonio 173 Ca’dei Cuori (Venice) 64
Museo degli Alpini (Bassano del Ca’Dario (Venice) 138–9
Grappa) 15, 176 N Ca’Favretto (Venice) 66
Museo Archeologico (Adria) 42, Napoleon, Emperor 41, 50–51 Ca’Foscari (Venice) 70, 129
43, 189 Accademia (Venice) 134 Ca’Foscarini (Venice) 66
Museo Archeologico (Venice) 79, Ala Napoleon (Venice) 78 Ca’Genovese (Venice) 74
81 Arsenale (Venice) 123 Ca’Grande (Venice) 73
Museo Archeologico (Verona) 43, Basilica San Marco (Venice) 87 Ca’da Mosto (Venice) 67
204 Doge’s Palace (Venice) 92, 93 Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 14, 59, 67, 148
Museo Archeologico Romano me The Ghetto (Venice) 149 Ca’Pesaro (Venice) 27, 66, 98, 109
Preromano (Pieve di Cadore) 221 Giardinetti Reali (Venice) 75 Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 12, 13, 51,
Museo della Battaglia (Vittorio looting 50 58, 70, 129, 130
Veneto) 225 Palazzo Balbi (Venice) 70 Casa Adoldo (Venice) 63
Museo dei Cimbi (Giazza) 207 Palazzo Patriarcale (Venice) 124 Doge’s Palace (Venice) 10, 12, 24,
Museo Civico (Bassano del Piazza San Marco (Venice) 77 26, 47, 59, 88–93
Grappa) 176 San Giobbe (Venice) 149 Gothic 26
Museo Civico (Belluno) 224 Santa Maria della Grazia (Venice) 159 layout 27
Museo Civico (Feltre) 225 Napoleon III, Emperor 211 Palazzo Balbi (Venice) 27, 70
Museo Civico (Treviso) 43, 178 Nativity 36 Palazzo Barbarigo (Venice) 66, 73
Museo Civico (Vicenza) 172 Nature reserves Palazzo Barbarigo della Terrazza
Museo Civico di Storia Naturale Oasi Valle Averto 264, 265 (Venice) 71
(Verona) 205 Po Delta Park 264, 265 Palazzo Barbaro (Venice) 73
Museo Concordiese (Portogruaro) Riserva Naturale Gardesana Palazzo Barzizza (Venice) 68
43, 179 Orientale 215 Palazzo Belloni Battagia (Venice) 65
Museo Correr (Venice) 45, 47, 51, Negroponte, Antonio da 119 Palazzo Bembo (Venice) 69
78, 81 Nevegal, restaurants 249 Palazzo del Bo (Padua) 13, 182
Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra New World fresco (Tiepolo) 130 Palazzo Calbo Crotta (Venice) 63
(Venice) 114, 117 Newspapers 277 Palazzo Camerlenghi (Venice) 69
Museo Ebraico (Venice) 149 Nicolò, Master 201 Palazzo Capello Malipiero (Venice)
Museo dell’Estuario (Torcello) 155 Noventa Padovana, restaurants 247 71
Museo Fortuny 98 The Nun’s Parlour at San Zaccaria Palazzo Capello-Layard (Venice) 71
Museo di Fossili (Bolca) 207 (Guardi) 116, 130 Palazzo del Capitanio (Padua) 180
Palaces (cont.) Palaces (cont.) Palma il Giovane 99, 105

Palazzo del Capitano (verona) 200 Palazzo Pisani (Venice) 97 Oratorio dei Crociferi (Venice) 145
Palazzo Centani (Casa di Goldoni) Palazzo Porto Barbarano (Vicenza) Palma il Vecchio 136
(Venice) 105 172 St Barbara 118
Palazzo Cirvan-Grimani (Venice) 70 Palazzo Priuli (Venice) 115 Paper, marbled 254, 256
Palazzo Communali (Padua) 181 Palazzo Querini (Venice) 64 Paradise (Tintoretto) 89
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo della Ragione (Padua) 181, Parking 280, 287
(Venice) 95, 96 182 Parks and gardens
Palazzo Contarini Fasan (Venice) 74 Palazzo della Ragione (Verona) alpine botanical garden (Rifugio
Palazzo Contarini del Zaffo 198, 200 Brigata Alpina Cadore) 224
(Venice) 72, 143 Palazzo della Ragione (Vicenza) Giardinetti Reali (Venice) 75, 78
Palazzo Corner Mocenigo (Venice) 13, 15, 172 Giardini Pubblici (Venice) 125, 260
105 Palazzo dei Rettori (Belluno) 224 Giardino Giusti (Verona) 13, 191, 205
Palazzo Corner Spinelli (Venice) 71 Palazzo Sagredo (Venice) 67 Hruska Botanical Gardens
Palazzo Dandolo (Venice) 96, 114 Palazzo Salviati (Venice) 74 (Gardone) 214
Palazzo Diedo (Venice) 62 Palazzo degli Scrigni (Venice) 72 Orto Botanico (Padua) 13, 187
Palazzo Donà Balbi (Venice) 64 Palazzo Soranzo (Venice) 105 Parco delle Rimembranze (Venice)
Palazzo del Duca (Venice) 72 Palazzo Sturm (Bassano del 125
Palazzo Emo (Venice) 62, 65 Grappa) 15, 176 see also Theme parks; Zoos
Palazzo Erizzo (Venice) 65 Palazzo Thiene (Vicenza) 172 Partita a Scacchi (Marostica) 39, 176,
Palazzo Falier (Venice) 72 Palazzo Tiepolo (Venice) 75 258
Palazzo Farsetti (Venice) 68 Palazzo dei Trecento (Treviso) 178 Passagno 177
Palazzo Flangini (Venice) 63 Palazzo Treves Bonfili (Venice) 75 Passo Duran 225
Palazzo Fontana Rezzonico Palazzo Trevisan-Cappello (Venice) Passo Falzarego 221
(Venice) 66 114 Passo Pordoi 220
Palazzo Foscari-Contarini (Venice) Palazzo Tron (Venice) 65 Passports 268, 271, 278
63 Palazzo Valmarana (Vicenza) 170 Pasta, shopping for 257
Palazzo Foscarini (Venice) 67 Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Pasticceria (Venice) 250, 251
Palazzo Franchetti Cavalli (Venice) (Venice) 65 Pedemonte 215
73 Palazzo Venier dei Leoni (Venice) Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Palazzo Garzoni (Venice) 71 73, 138 (Venice) 73, 127, 138
Palazzo Giovanelli (Venice) 64 Palazzo Zenobio (Venice) 128 itineraries 12, 13
Palazzo Giustinian (Venice) 70, 75, Palazzo Zuckerman (Padua) 183 Pellestrina 161
129 Renaissance 27 Pensione Wildner (Venice) 115
Palazzo Grassi (Venice) 71 The Venetian Palazzo 26–7 Pentecost Dome (Basilica San
Palazzo Grimani (Venice) 27, 68, 118 Palazzi see Palaces Marco) 82, 84
Palazzo Gritti (Venice) 63 Palazzo del Cinema (Lido) 161 Personal security 272–3
Palazzo Gritti-Pisani (Venice) 74 Palio dei Dieci Comuni Pesaro, Lunardo 31
Palazzo Gussoni-Grimani (Venice) (Montagnana) 39 Pesaro family 31
66 Palio di Feltre 38 The Pescheria (Venice) 66, 104, 254
Palazzo Iseppo (Vicenza) 172 Palladio, Andrea 47, 81, 104, 167 Peschiera 211
Palazzo Labia (Venice) 64, 147 Accademia (Venice) 135 Petrarch, Francesco 114, 167
Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza) Contà Porti palazzi (Vicenza) 172 Casa di Petrarca (Arquà Petrarca) 188
173 Doge’s Palace (Venice) 92 portrait 180
Palazzo Liviano (Padua) 180 Loggia del Capitaniato (Vicenza) Pharmacies 273
Palazzo Loredan (Venice) 26, 68, 170, 172 Phrase book 319–20
72, 97 Loggia, Piazza delle Erbe (Padua) Pianta, Francesco 111
Palazzo Maffei (Verona) 198, 200 181 Piazza delle Erbe (Padua) 181
Palazzo Mangili Valmarana memorial (Vicenza) 171 Piazza delle Erbe (Verona) 13, 198,
(Venice) 67 Ospidaletto (Venice) 119 200
Palazzo Manin-Dolfin (Venice) 69 Palazzo della Ragione (Vicenza) 172 Piazza delle Erbe (Vicenza) 171
Palazzo Marcello (Venice) 65, 70 Ponte degli Alpini (Bassano del Piazza del Mercato (Belluno) 224
Palazzo Mastelli (Venice) 144 Grappa) 176 Piazza San Marco (Venice) 77
Palazzo Michiel (Venice) 145 Il Redentore (Giudecca) 152, 158 itineraries 10, 12
Palazzo Michiel del Brusà (Venice) San Francesco della Vigna (Venice) street-by-street map 78–9
67 119 Piazza dei Signori (Padua) 13, 180
Palazzo Michiel dalle Colonne San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 99 Piazza dei Signori (Verona) 13, 14,
(Venice) 67 Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza) 174–5 198, 200
Palazzo Mocenigo (Venice) 71, 109 Vicenza 164, 170, 171 Piazza dei Signori (Vicenza) 13, 15,
Palazzo del Monte di Pietà (Padua) Villa Barbaro 28–9, 165 171, 172
180 Villa Capra “La Rotonda” (Vicenza) 29 Piazzale Roma (Venice) 101, 280
Palazzo Moro Lin (Venice) 71 Villa Emo (Fanzolo) 177 Piazzetta, Giacomo 131
Palazzo Morosini Brandolin Villa Foscari (the Malcontenta) 187 Piazzetta, Giambattista 109, 133
(Venice) 66 Villa Pisani (Montagnana) 29 Accademia (Venice) 134
Palazzo Nani (Venice) 129 Villa Rotonda (Vicenza) 169, 173 Glory of St Dominic 121
Palazzo Papadopoli (Venice) 68 Villa Thiene (Quinto Vicentino) 28 Piazzetta dei Leoncini (Venice) 79
Palazzo Patriarcale (Venice) 124 The Villas of Palladio 28–9 Piazzetta San Marco (Venice) 81
Palazzo Persico (Venice) 70 Le Zitelle (Giudecca) 158 Picasso, Pablo 138
Pickpockets 272 Prisons (Doge’s Palace) 91, 93, 117 Restoration 55

Pietà (Bellini) 78 Prodi, Romano 55 Rialto Bridge (Venice) 59, 69, 100,
La Pietà (Venice) 49, 50, 115, 116 Prosecco 177, 179, 241 104
Pietro, Nicolò di 146 Proust, Marcel 75 history 44, 45, 49
Pieve di Cadore 15, 221 Ptarmigans 223 itineraries 12
Pieve di Livinallongo 221 Public conveniences 269 street-by-street map 103
Pieve River 221 Public holidays 39 Rialto Markets (Venice) 103, 104
Pigafetta, Antonio 171, 172 Public telephones 276 Rialto Quarter (Venice) 68–9, 104
Piles 24 Punta della Dogana (Venice) 75, Ricci, Marco 137
Pinault, François-Henri 71, 138, 139 138, 139 Ricci, Sebastiano 133, 142, 224
Pink Floyd 54 San Marziale (Venice) 145
Piombo, Sebastiano del 147 Q Il Riccio 148, 183
Pisanello, Atonio 196, 201 Quadreria (Venice) 81 Ridotto (Venice) 50, 96
Pisani, Francesco 188 Quadriga (bronze horses) (Basilica Rifugio Brigata Alpina Cadore 224
Piscopia, Elena 49, 182 San Marco) 86 Rio dei Giardini (Venice) 125
Pius X, Pope 52 Quartiere delle Barche (Vicenza) 171 Rio Madonna dell’Orto (Venice) 19
Plague 46, 49, 158, 161 Quattro Libri (Palladio) 28 Rio San Barnaba (Venice) 130
Plague Doctor 34 Quinto Vicentino 28 Rio delle Veste (Venice) 94
Pliny 200 Riserva Naturale Gardesana
Po Delta 151, 167, 189 R Orientale 215
Po Delta Park 264, 265 Radio 277 Risorgimento 50, 81, 182
Polesine 15, 189 Rail travel Riva del Ferro (Venice) 69
Police 272, 273, 287 arriving by train 280, 281 Riva del Garda 215
registration with 229 getting round the Veneto 286, 287 restaurants 248
Polo, Marco 8–9, 46, 147 Rainfall 39 Riva dei Partigiani (Venice) 125
burial place 119 Rangone, Tommaso 99 Riva degli Schiavoni (Venice) 113,
Ponte degli Alpini (Bassano del The Rape of Europa (Zuccarelli) 137 117
Grappa) 15, 176 Receipts 230 Riva del Vin (Venice) 68, 102
Ponte Nuovo (Verona) 199 Il Redentore (Giudecca) 152, 158 Riviera Bresciana 214
Ponte della Paglia (Venice) 114, 117 Refrontolo, restaurants 248 Rizzo, Antonio 88, 93
Ponte Pietra (Verona) 190 Regattas Road travel see Bus travel; Car travel;
Ponte dei Pugni (Venice) 129, 130 gondolas 33, 61 Coach travel
Ponte di Quintavalle (Venice) 124–5 Regata dei 500 x 2 (Caorle) 38 Rocca di Riva (Riva del Garda) 215
Ponte Romano (Verona) 43, 204 Regata Storica (Venice) 39, 54–5, 61 Rocca Scaligera (Sirmione) 14, 212
Ponte San Michele (Vicenza) 171 Vogalonga (Venice) 37 Rocca Scaligera (Soave) 206
Ponte Scaligero (Verona) 195, 196 Renaissance art 31 Roch, St 110
Ponte Storto (Venice) 102 Renaissance palazzi 27 Roe deer 223
Ponte di Veia (Sant’Anna d’Alfaedo) Reservations Rolfe, Frederick (Baron Corvo) 105
207 hotels 230 Roman Veneto 42–3, 167
Population 22 restaurants 236–7 Arco dei Gavi (Verona) 196
Il Pordenone 178 Residenze des Bains (Lido) 53, 160 The Arena (Verona) 13, 14, 42, 43,
Porta dei Borsari (Verona) 196 Responsible tourism 271 191, 197
Porta della Carta (Doge’s Palace) 88 Restaurants 236–49 Castelvecchio museum (Verona)
Porta Magna (Arsenale) 112 children in 237 195
Porta Rugo (Belluno) 224 The Dolomites 249 Eremitani Museums (Padua) 183
Porta Vescovo 220 dress code 237 Grotte di Catullo (Sirmione) 14,
Porters (Venice) 281 eating on a budget 237 213
Porto di Lido 161 fixed-price menus 236 Museo Archeologico Romano e
Porto Tolle 189 Flavours of Venice and the Veneto Preromano (Pieve di Cadore) 221
Portogruaro 43, 165, 179 238–9 Museo Archeologico (Verona)
Portrait of a Gentleman (Lotto) 136 how much to pay 236 204
Portrait if a Young Man in a Red Hat opening hours and closing days 236 Museo Lapidario Maffeiano
(Carpaccio) 81 reading the menu 237 (Verona) 196
Postal services 277 recommended 237 Museo Nazionale Atestino (Este)
Potholes 207 reservations 236–7 188–9
Pound, Ezra 52, 53, 157 smoking in 237 Porta dei Borsari (Verona) 196
Poveglia (island) 161 types of 236 Portogruaro 179
Prato della Valle (Padua) 187 vegetarian 237 Teatro Romano (Verona) 14, 204
Presentation of the Virgin (Titian) 137 The Veneto 247–9 Romano, Ezzelino de 177
Prices Veneto Plain 247–8 Rome, sack of 43
admission 269, 271 Venice 242–6 Romeo and Juliet 201
air tickets 278 Verona and Lake Garda 248–9 Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 199
gondolas 283 What to Drink in Venice and the Casa di Romeo (Verona) 201
hotels 228 Veneto 240–41 Tomba di Giulietta (Verona) 201
porters 281 wheelchair access 237 Zeffirelli film 225
rail tickets 280, 286 wine in 237 Rosolina Mare 263
restaurants 236 see also Bars and cafés; Food Rossi, Domenico 109
vaporetti 284 and drink Gesuiti (Venice) 146
Rossini, Gioachino 97 Sanctuary (Basilica San Marco) 87 Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci
La Rotonda (Rovigo) 189 Sand, George 117 (Venice) 116
Rovigo 189 Sanmichele, Michele 68, 161, 205 Scuola di Santa Maria Battuti
Rowing 260, 261, 263 Sansovino, Jacopo 104 (Conegliano) 179
Rubens, Peter Paul 96 Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) Scuola del Santo (Padua) 187
Rules of the road 287 188 Scuola dei Varotari (Venice) 131
Ruskin, Effie 144 Ca’Grande (Venice) 73 Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia
Ruskin, John 51, 74, 96, 114, 144 Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 148 (Venice) 143
Doge’s Palace (Venice) 90 Scuole 131
S Libreria Sansoviniana (Venice) 79, Sea travel 279, 281
La Sacca della Misericorida (Venice) 81 Season, tourist 228, 268
143 Palazzo Manin-Dolfin (Venice) 69 Self-catering 230–31
Sacca Sessola (island) 152 San Fantin (Venice) 94 Selva di Cadore 225
Safety 272–3 San Francesco della Vigna (Venice) Senior travellers 270, 271
Sagra di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 38 119 La Sensa (Venice) 37
Sailing 263 San Salvatore (Venice) 98 Serravalle (Vittorio Veneto) 225
St Barbara (Palma il Vecchio) 118 San Zulian (Venice) 99 Shakespeare, William
St George Slaying the Dragon Tribunale Fabbriche Nuove Othello 74
(Carpaccio) 122 (Venice) 67 Romeo and Juliet 172
St Mark’s Basin on Ascension Day The Zecca (Venice) 79 Shakespeare Festival (Verona) 38
(Canaletto) 50–51 Santa Croce (Venice) see San Polo Shelley, Percy Bysshe 160
St Simeon Stock Receiving the and Santa Croce Ships
Scapular of the Carmelite Order Santa Fosca, hotels 235 Arsenale (Venice) 123
from the Virgin (Tiepolo) 128, 131 Santa Lucia Railway Station (Venice) assembly-line system 123
Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Doge’s 62 Museo Storico Navale 122
Palace) 91, 92–3 Santa Maria della Grazia (island) 159 Shopping 252–7
Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Doge’s Santa Maria in Stelle 206 books and gifts 254, 255
Palace) 47, 89, 91, 93 Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella 215 department stores 254, 255
Sala delle Quattro Porte (Doge’s Sant’Angelo della Polvere (island) fabrics and interior design 253,
Palace) 92 152, 157 255
Sala dello Scudo (Doge’s Palace) 91 Sant’Anna d’Alfaedo 207 fashion and accessories 253, 255
Sala del Senato (Doge’s Palace) 92 restaurants 248 glass 253, 255
Salò 214 Sant’Ariano (island) 153 how to pay 252
Salò, Gaspare da 214 Sant’Elena (island) 125 jewellery 253, 255
Salò Republic 53, 214 Sant’Erasmo (island), festivals 39 markets and food shops 254, 255
Salome (Klimt) 109 Sarmeola di Rubano, restaurants masks and costumes 253, 255
Salvador Dalí Universe (Venice) 117 248 opening hours 252, 269
San, Santa, Santi, Santo see also Sasso Lungo 222 VAT exemption 252
Churches Scala d’Oro (Doge’s Palace) 90, 92 What to Buy in Venice and the
San Barnaba (Venice) 129, 130 Scaligeri, Bartolomeo 201 Veneto 256–7
San Clemente (island) 161 Scaligeri, Giovanni 201 when to shop 252
San Francesco del Deserto (island) Scaligeri dynasty 46, 194, 198, 206, where to shop in Venice 252
156 213 see also Markets
San Giorgio in Alga (island) 152 Scaligeri Tombs (Verona) 14, 199, Signorelli, Luca 148
San Lazzaro degli Armeni (island) 200–201 Simeon Stock, St 131
153, 159 Scalzi (Santa Maria di Nazareth) Sirmione peninsula 164, 210, 212–
San Marco (Venice) 19, 76–99 (Venice) 149 13
area map 77 Scalzi Bridge (Venice) 63 hotels 235
Around La Fenice street-by-street Scamozzi, Vincenzo 125 itineraries 13, 14
94–5 Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza) 174 restaurants 249
bars and cafés 250–51 Scardovari 189 spa facilities 264
hotels 232 Scarpa, Carlo 195 water sports 263
Piazza San Marco street-by-street Scarpagnino (Antonio Abbondi) Skiing 264, 265
78–9 110, 111 Bosco Chiesanuova 207
restaurants 242–3 Schiavoni (Dalmatians) 122 Cortina d’Ampezzo 220
San Michele (island) 53, 145, 152, Scrovegni Chapel (Padua) 46, 183, the Dolomites 217
157 184–5 Smith, Joseph 67
San Nicolò quarter (Lido) 161 Scuola della Carità (Venice) 137 Smoking, in restaurants 237
San Pietro di Castello (island) 113, Scuola Grande dei Carmini (Venice) Soave 206
124 126, 127, 128, 131 festivals 37, 260
San Polo and Santa Croce (Venice) Scuola Grande di San Marco Soft drinks 241
18, 100–111 (Venice) 19, 118–19, 137 Solferino 211
area map 101 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Solferino, Battle of 51, 211
bars and cafés 250–51 (Venice) 13, 101, 110–11 Spas 264, 265
hotels 232–3 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Spavento, Giorgio 98
restaurants 243–4 Schiavoni (Venice) 13, 122, 131 Special needs, travellers with 269,
San Polo street-by-street 102 Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista 271
San Servolo (island) 55, 153, 158–9 (Venice) 108, 137 Specialist holidays 262–5
Sport Accademia (Venice) 137 Titian (cont.)

outdoor activities 262–5 Ca’Rezzonico (Venice) 130 Presentation of the Virgin 137
Spring 37 Gesuati (Venice) 133 San Salvatore (Venice) 98
Spulga della Preta 207 La Pietà (Venice) 116 Santa Maria della Salute (Venice)
Squero di San Trovaso (Venice) 32, Madonna del Carmelo 126 139
133 New World fresco 130 Scuola del Santo (Padua) 187
Sradellata al Pal del Vo 38 Ospidaletto (Venice) 119 Tito, Ettore 149
Stamps 277 Palazzo Labia (Venice) 147 Toilets 269
Stark, Freya 177 St Simeon Stock Receiving the Tomba di Giulietta (Verona) 201
State Apartments (Doge’s Palace) 92 Scapular of the Carmelite Order Tommaseo, Nicolò 97
The Stealing of St Mark (Tintoretto) from the Virgin 128, 131 Torcello (Venice) 44, 45, 153, 154–5
135 San Stae (Venice) 109 hotels 234
Stefano da Verona 195 Santi Apostoli (Venice) 147 itineraries 10, 12, 13
Strada del Vino Bianco 177 Scalzi (Venice) 149 restaurants 246
Stravinsky, Igor 52, 53, 97, 157 Scuola Grande dei Carmini Toreuma, Claudia 183
Street entertainers 35 (Venice) 128, 131 Torre Civica (Belluno) 224
Street names (Venice) 288 The Translation of the Holy House to Torre dei Lamberti (Verona) 200
Strozzi, Bernardo 137 Loreto 134 Torre dell’Orologio (Venice) 79, 80
Stucky, Giovanni 158 Villa Pisani 186 Torre di Piazza (Vicenza) 171, 172
Student travellers 270, 271 Tiepolo, Giandomenico Torri del Benaco 210
Su e zo per i ponti (Venice) 37 San Polo (Venice) 105 hotels 235
Subsidence 55 Villa Valmarana (Vicenza) 173 restaurants 249
Suez Canal 52 Time zone 270 Torri del Vaiolet 223
Summer 38–9 Timetables, vaporetti 284 Torture Chamber (Doge’s Palace)
Sumptuary laws 51 Tintoretto, Domenico 99 89
Sunscreen 273 Tintoretto, Jacopo 30, 48, 86, 144 Totila the Goth 44
Sunshine 37 Accademia (Venice) 137, 144 Tourism 54
Swimming 263 Bacchus and Ariadne 91 Tourist information 268–9, 271
Crucifixion 102, 110 Tourist tax 228–9
T Doge’s Palace (Venice) 91, 92, 93, Tours
Taglioni, Maria 148 144 Brenta Canal 14, 186–7
Taxes 269 The Flight into Egypt 111 Dolomite Road 15, 220–21
tax refund system 268 house (Venice) 142 Valpolicella Wine Tour 14, 214–15
tourist 228–9 Madonna dell’Orto (Venice) 142, Traditions 23
Taxis 287 144 Tradonico, Doge Pietro 117
safety 272 Paradise 89 Traghetti 283
water 283 San Cassiano (Venice) 105 Trains see Rail travel
Teatro Goldoni (Venice) 259, 261 San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 99 The Translation of the Holy House to
Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza) 13, 15, 48, San Polo (Venice) 105 Loreto (Tiepolo) 134
174–5 San Rocco (Venice) 108 Travel
Teatro Romano (Verona) 14, 204 San Trovaso (Venice) 133 air 278–9
Teatro Verde (Venice) 99 Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) bus 286–7
Telephone services 276, 277 139 car 280–81, 287
Television 277 Santa Maria Zobenigo (Venice) 96 coach 280, 281
Temperatures 38 Santo Stefano (Venice) 97 Dolomites 219
The Tempest (Giorgione) 134, 136 Scuola Grande di San Marco getting around Venice and the
The Temptation of Christ (Tintoretto) (Venice) 118 Veneto 282–7
111 Scuola Grande di San Rocco getting to Venice and the Veneto
Tennis 260, 261 (Venice) 110–11, 144 278–81
Tetrarchs (Basilica San Marco) 83 The Stealing of St Mark 135 green travel 282
Theatre The Temptation of Christ 111 Lagoon Islands 152
Venice 259, 261 Triumph of Doge Nicolà da Ponte 40 rail 280, 281, 286, 287
Verona 260, 261 Tipping 269 sea 279, 281
Theft 272 taxis 287 taxis 287
Theme parks, Gardaland® Resort Tirali, Andrea 62 vaporetti 284–5
211 Titian 31, 49, 86, 111, 195 Veneto Plain 169
Theodore, St 45 Assumption of the Virgin 47, 106 Verona and Lake Garda 193
column (Venice) 79, 81 Ca’d’Oro (Venice) 148 Travel insurance 273
statue (Doge’s Palace) 92 Casa di Tiziano (Pieve di Cadore) Tre Cime di Lavaredo 221, 223
Thiene 176 15, 221 Treasury (Basilica San Marco) 85,
Tickets Duomo (Treviso) 178 87
air travel 278 Duomo (Verona) 201 Tredici Comuni 207
coach travel 280 Gesuiti (Venice) 146 Treviso 43, 167, 178
for entertainment 258 house (Venice) 145 airport 279, 281
museums and galleries 269 Madonna di Ca’Pesaro 31 hotels 235
rail travel 280, 286 monument (Santa Maria Gloriosa itineraries 15
vaporetti 284, 285 dei Frari) 107 restaurants 248
Tiepolo, Giambattista 121 Museo Civico (Treviso) 178 Treviso, Antonio da 178
Tribunale Fabbriche Nuove (Venice) Veneziano, Paolo 30, 86, 214 Verona (cont.)
67 Coronation of the Virgin 30, 135, itineraries 10, 11, 13, 14
Triremes 48–9, 123 136 map 194–5
Trissino, G.G. 175 San Pantalon (Venice) 108 Opera at the Arena 260–61
Triumph of Doge Nicolà da Ponte Venice 56–161 restaurants 249
(Tintoretto) 40 address system 282 Roman 42–3
Troubetzkoy, Prince 148 airport 279, 281 street-by-street map 198–9
Turgenev, Ivan 52 art 30–31 Valpolicella Wine Tour 215
Turner, J.M.W. 75 bars and cafés 250–51 Verona Card 269
Basilica San Marco 82–7 Verona and Lake Garda 190–215
U Birth of Venice 41, 44–5 getting around 193
UNESCO 54, 55, 194 Building of Venice 24–5 hotels 235
Upper Reaches of the Grand Canal Cannaregio 140–49 map 192–3
(Canaletto) 33 Castello 112–25 restaurants 248–9
Doge’s Palace 88–93 Veronese, Paolo 28, 30, 48, 86, 105
V Dorsoduro 126–39 The Adoration of the Shepherds 120
Valdagno 206 entertainment 258–61 Age and Youth 93
Valdobbiadene 177 festivals 36–9, 260 Basilica di Monte Berico (Vicenza)
restaurants 248 food and drink 238–41 173
Valeggio sul Mincio, restaurants getting around 282–5 Castelvecchio (Verona) 195
249 Glorious Decadence 50–51 Dialectic 92
Valerio Catullo Airport (Verona) gondolas and gondoliers 32–3, Doge’s Palace (Venice) 92, 93
279, 281 283 Feast in the House of Levi 136–7
Valle di Cadore 23 Growth of the Empire 46–7 Libreria Sansoviniana (Venice) 81
Valle delle Sfingi 207 history 41, 44–5 San Barnaba (Venice) 130
Valpolicella Wine Tour 14, 214–15 hotels 232–4 San Francesco della Vigna (Venice)
Valpollicellore (Cellore d’Illasi) 37 Lagoon Islands 150–61 119
Valzoldana 224–5 map: Venice at a Glance 58–9 San Giacomo dell’Orio (Venice) 108
Vandals 42 masks and the Carnival 34–5 San Giorgio in Braida (Verona) 205
Vaporetti 284–5 One Week in Venice and the San Pantalon (Venice) 108
Venice Vaporetto routes see inside Veneto 10, 13 San Sebastiano (Venice) 132
back cover palazzi 26–7 Santa Corona (Vicenza) 173
VAT 269 population 22 Verrocchio, Andrea 118
exemption 252 porters 281 Via Garibaldi (Venice) 124
Vegetarians 237 Queen of the Adriatic 48–9 Via Mazzini (Verona) 23
Vendramin, Andrea, tomb 121 railway station 280, 281 Via Sottoriva (Verona) 199
Venegazzu, restaurants 248 recognizing street names 288 Vicenza 29, 164, 167, 170–75
Veneti 42 restaurants 242–6 floods 55
Venetian empire 41, 46–9, 167 San Marco 76–99 hotels 235
Venetian Institute of Sciences, San Polo and Santa Croce itineraries 10, 13, 14–15
Letters and Arts 97 100–111 restaurants 248
Venetian Lagoon 167, 179 shopping 252–7 street-by-street map 170–71
The Veneto 162–225 Street Finder map 288–301 Le Vignole (island) 161
The Dolomites 216–25 Three Days in Venice 12–13 Village festivals 38
economy 22 travelling to 278–81 Villas
entertainment 258–61 Two Days in Venice 12 Development of the Villa 28–9
food and drink 238–41 Two Weeks in Venice and the Villa Alba (Gardone) 214
getting around 286–7 Veneto 11, 14–15 Villa Allegri-Arvedi (Cuzzano) 206
hotels 234–5 Venice Preserved 54–5 Villa Barbarigo (Valsanzibio) 188
One Week in Venice and the Venice in Vogue 52–3 Villa Barbaro (Masèr) 28–9, 165,
Veneto 10, 13 A View of the Grand Canal 60–75 177
restaurants 247–9 walking in 282 Villa Capra “La Rotonda” (Vicenza)
Roman Veneto 42–3 Venice International University 29
specialist holidays and outdoor 158–9 Villa Emo (Fanzolo) 177
activities 262–5 Venice Marathon 39 Villa Foscari (the Malcontenta) 14,
travelling to 278–81 Venice in Peril Fund 55, 132, 262, 187
Two Weeks in Venice and the 265 Villa Godi Malinverni (Thiene) 176
Veneto 11, 14–15 VENICEcard 269 Villa Pisani (Montagnana) 14, 29,
The Veneto at a Glance 164–5 Venier, Doge Francesco 98 186, 189
The Veneto Plain 166–89 Venier, Doge Sebastiano 120 Villa Rotonda (Vicenza) 13, 15, 169,
Verona and Lake Garda 190–215 Verdi, Giuseppe 75 173
What to Buy 256–7 La Fenice (Venice) 97 Villa Thiene (Quinto Vicentino) 28
The Veneto Plain 166–89 Verona 23, 164, 190, 191, 194–205 Villa Valmarana (Vicenza) 15, 173
getting around 169 airport 279, 281 Villa il Vittoriale (Gardone) 214
hotels 234–5 entertainment 260, 261 Villa Wildmann-Foscari 14, 187
map 168–9 festivals 36, 38, 260 The Villas of Palladio 28–9, 167
restaurants 247–8 history 46 Virgil 28
Veneziano, Lorenzo 30 hotels 235 Visas 268, 271, 278
Visconi, Luchino 54, 160 Weights and measures 270 World War II 21
Visconti dynasty 194, 204 Wells 24 La Donna Partigiana (Venice) 125
Visentini, Antonio 67 Wheelchair access see Disabled Museo della Battaglia (Vittorio
Visigoths 43 travellers Veneto) 225
Vitruvius 28 Whistler, James McNeill 73 Museo Storico Navale (Venice)
Vittoria, Alessandro 90, 92, 119 Wildlife 122
Vittorio Emanuele II, King of Italy 51, Dolomites 223
225 Parco Natura Viva (Peschiera) 211 Y
statue 115 Windsurfing 263 Youth hostels 23, 231
Vittorio Veneto 217, 225 Wine
festivals 38, 260 Bardolino 214 Z
hotels 235 Conegliano 179 Zanetti, Bishop 178
Vivaldi, Antonio 49, 51, 116 festivals 37, 39, 260 Zattere (Venice) 132–3
Vivarini, Alvise 120, 158 reading wine labels 240 The Zecca (Venice) 79
Vivarini, Antonio 108, 116, 137 red wines 240 Zeffirelli, Franco 225
Vivarini, Bartolomeo, San Giovanni in restaurants 237 Zelotti, Giambattista 176, 177,
in Bragora (Venice) 122 Soave 206 187
Vogalonga 37 Valdobbiadene 177 Zen, Cardinal 87
Volumni family 183 Valpolicella Wine Tour 14, Zeno, St 203
214–15 Zevico, Stefano de 196
W What to Drink in Venice and the Ziani, Doge 45
Wagner, Richard 52, 65, 70, 129 Veneto 240–41 Le Zitelle (Giudecca) 158
Walking 263, 265 white wines 241 Zoldo Alto 225
Eastern Castello 124–5 wine tasting 262, 265 hotels 235
in Venice 282 Wine bars (Venice) 250, 251 Zoldo valley 224
Water, drinking 273 Winter 36 Zoos, Parco Natura Viva (Peschiera)
Water sports 263, 265 Winter sports 264, 265 211
Water taxis 283 Women travellers 272 Zoppe di Cadore 219, 224, 225
Weather 36–9 World War I, Dolomite war Zuccarelli, Francesco, The Rape of
Wedding gondolas 33 memorials 217, 221 Europa 137
316  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Midson, Deepak Mittal, Shubhi Mittal, Sonal Modha,
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Gillian Price, Pete Quinlan, Rada Radojicic, Erin Richards,
of this book. Lucy Richards, Steve Rowling, Simon Ryder, Sands
Publishing Solutions, Ankita Sharma, Azeem Siddiqui,
Main Contributors Rituraj Singh, Meredith Smith, Jo-Ann Titmarsh, Nikky
Susie Boulton studied Languages and History of Art at the Twyman, Janis Utton, Conrad Van Dyk, Deepika Verma,
University of Cambridge. She has been visiting Venice for Penny Walker, Lynda Warrington, Fiona Wild.
over 20 years and is the author of several guide books on
the city. Research Assistance
Jill De Cet, Hans Erlacher, Paolo Frullini, Oscar Gates,
Christopher Catling has been visiting Italy for over 25 years Marinella Laini, Elizabetta Lovato, Fabiola Perer,
since his first archaeological dig there while he was a Alan Ross, Sarah Sole.
student at Cambridge University. He is the author of
several guide books on Italian cities and regions, including Index
The DK Travel Guide to Florence and Tuscany. Helen Peters.
Additional Contributors Special Assistance

Gillian Price was born in England in 1953 but grew up in Comune di Vicenza; Arch. Gianfranco Martinoni at the
Sydney, Australia. She moved to Venice in 1981 and has Assessorato Beni Culturali Comune di Padova; Ca’ Macana;
written nine books on walking in Italy. Gillian has been Cesare Battisti at the Media Tourist Office, Venice; Curia
contributing to Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Travel Patriarcale Venezia; D.ssa Foscarina Caletti at the Giunta
Guide series since 1998. Regionale di Venezia; Jane Groom, Brian Jordan; Alexandra
Kennedy; Joy Parker; Frances Hawkins, Lady Frances Clarke
Sally Roy first got to know Venice while at school in Rome and John Millerchip of the Venice in Peril Fund; the staff of
and has been returning to the country ever since. She read the APT offices throughout the Veneto, in particular Anna
Medieval History at St Andrew’s University, Edinburgh, and Rita Bisaggio in Montegrotto Terme, Stephano Marchioro
has contributed to several books on Italy. in Padua; Anna Maria Carlotto, Virna Scarduelli and
Christina Erlacher in Verona, Anselmo Centomo in Vicenza;
Additional Illustrations Heidi Wenyon.
Annabelle Brend, Dawn Brend, Neil Bulpitt, Richard Draper,
Nick Gibbard, Kevin Jones Associates, John Lawrence, The Photography Permissions
Maltings Partnership, Simon Roulstone, Sue Sharples, Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for
Derrick Stone, Paul Weston, John Woodcock. their kind permission to photograph at their
establishments:
Additional Photography Venice: Amministrazione Provinciale di Venezia (Museo
James McConnachie, Angus McBride, Anna Mockford, Ian dell’Estuario, Torcello); Ca’ Mocenigo; Ca’ Pesaro; Ca’
O’Leary, Martin Richardson, Rough Guides/Michelle Grant, Rezzonico; Caffè Quadri; Collegio Armeni; Fondazione
Jo-Ann Titmarsh . Europea Pro Venetia Viva, San Servolo; Fondazione Giorgio
Cini (San Giorgio Maggiore); Peggy Guggenheim Museum;
Design and Editorial Hôtel des Bains; Libreria Sansoviniana; Museo
Deputy Editorial Director Douglas Amrine Archeologico; Museo Correr; Museo Diocesano d’Arte
Deputy Art Director Gaye Allen Sacra; Museo Fortuny; Museo Storia Navale; Museo Storico
Map Co-ordinators Simon Farbrother, David Pugh Naturale; Museo Vetrario, Murano; Arch. Umberto Franzoi
Production Hilary Stephens and staff at the Palazzo Ducale; Procuratie di San Marco
Picture Research Ellen Root (Basilica San Marco); Santi Giovanni e Paolo; San Lazzaro
degli Armeni; Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari; Scuola Grande
Revisions Team dei Carmini; Scuola Grande di San Rocco.
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Madden, Hayley Maher, Nicola Malone, Alison McGill, Ian Vicenza; Santa Maria in Organo, Verona; San Pietro in
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  317
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Picture Credits 145tl; Ca’Sagredo Hotel: 231b; Cephas Picture
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318  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Hotel Metropole: 229b, 233tl; Moro Roma: 34cl, 52/53c; Madonna col Bambino by Filippo Lippi (1406–69), Cini
Museo Civico agli Eremitani: 183 all; Museo Civico di Collection, Venice 138t; Annunciazione by Vittore Carpaccio
Oderzo: 43tc; The Mansell Collection: 50cb, 51bl. (1460 c.– 1526), Ca’ d’Oro, Venice,148bl; Pala di San Zeno by
Andrea Mantegna (1431–1506), San Zeno, Verona, 202cl;
Newimage S.R.L.: 37bc; NHPA/Gerard Lacz: 223br; Settore Beni Culturali, Padua: 184t/cla/clb, 185cra/crb/bl;
NHPA/Laurie Campbell: 223cr; NHPA/Silvestris Spectrum Colour Library: 32br; Studio Pizzi: 49cla,
Fotoservice: 223crb. 51crb; Tony Stone Images: 220cla, 223cla, 54/55c;
Superstock: Melvyn Longhurst 112; Frank Neil/
OFFicina: 277tl; Olympia/Select: 161tr, 259tr; Orient- Robert Harding Picture Library 162–3.
Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises: 280cra.
Performing Arts Library/Gianfranco Fainello: 260c; Tasting Places: 262cla; Ristorante Taverna: 249tr.
Polizia di Stato, Questura di Venezia: 272cla, 272crb;
Porto di Venezia (campione/develon.com): 279br.
United Colors of Benetton: Josh Olins 55tl.
Residenze Des Bains: 53crb, 160tl; The Royal Collection

Venetian Navigator: 276cla; Via Paradiso 32: 229tr,
©1994 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth 11: 50/51c.
235tc; Hotel Villa Cipriani: 228cr., 247br; La
Villeggiatura: 232bl.
John Ferro Sims: 177tr; Scala, Firenze: Madonna di Ca’
Pesaro by Titian (1477/89–157), S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari,
Front Endpaper – Alamy Images: AA World Travel Library
Venice, 31c/cr; Ultimi Momenti del Doge Marin Faliero by
Francesco Hayez (1791–1881), Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan, rtc; Corbis: Jon Arnold/JAI Rf crb; Atlantide Phototravel rtl;
47tl; Banquet of Antony and Cleopatra by Giambattista Jose Fuste Raga rbl; Getty Images: Alinari rcb; Stuart Black/
Tiepolo (1692–1770), Palazzo Labia, Venice, 64t; Ultimi Robert Harding World Imagery ltl; Matteo Colombo ltr;
Momenti del Doge Marin Faliero by Francesco Hayez (1791– Mondadori Portfolio lbc.
1881), Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan, 72cra; Crocifissione by
Tintoretto (1518–94), Scuola Grande di S. Rocco, Venice, Map Cover: Getty Images: Jorg Greuel.
110c/cb; Il Trasporto della Santa Casa di Loreto by Cover Images: Front and Spine: Getty Images: Jorg Greuel.
Giambattista Tiepolo (1692–1770), Accademia, Venice, Back: Dreamstime.com: Tomáš Bureš.
134tc; Presentazione al Tempio by Titian (1477/89– 1576),
Accademia, Venice,137bc; Intérieur Hollandais II by Joan All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further
Miró (1928), Museo Guggenheim, Venice, 138tc; information see www.dkimages.com
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Phrase book  319
Phrase Book
In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Aiuto! eye-yoo-toh I’d like to place a Vorrei fare vor-ray far-eh oona
Stop! Fermate! fair-mah-teh long-distance call. una interurbana. in-tair-oor-bah-nah
Call a doctor. Chiama un kee-ah-mah oon I’d like to make a Vorrei fare una vor-ray far-eh oona a
medico. meh-dee-koh reverse-charge call. telefonata a carico teh-leh-fon-ah-tah ah
Call an ambulance. Chiama un’ kee-ah-mah oon del destinatario. kar-ee-koh dell dess-
ambulanza. am-boo-lan-tsa tee-nah-tar-ree-oh
Call the Chiama la kee-ah-mah lah Ritelefono più
I’ll try again later. ree-teh-leh-foh-noh
police. polizia. pol-ee-tsee-ah tardi. pee-oo tar-dee
Call the fire Chiama i kee-ah-mah ee Can I leave a Posso lasciare poss-oh lash-ah-reh
brigade. pompieri. pom-pee-air-ee message. un messaggio? oon mess-sah-joh?
Where is the Dov’è il telefono? dov-eh eel teh-leh- Hold on. Un attimo, oon ah-tee-moh,
telephone? foh-noh? per favore pair fah-vor-eh
The nearest L’ospedale loss-peh-dah-leh pee- Could you speak Può parlare più pwoh par-lah-reh up
hospital? più vicino? oovee-chee-noh? up a little please? forte, per favore? pee-oo for-teh, pair
fah-vor-eh?
local call la telefonata lah teh-leh-fon-ah-ta
Communication Essentials locale loh-kah-leh
Yes/No Si/No see/noh
Please Per favore pair fah-vor-eh Shopping
Thank you Grazie grah-tsee-eh
Excuse me Mi scusi mee skoo-zee How much does Quant’è, kwan-teh pair
Hello Buon giorno bwon jor-noh this cost? per favore? fah-vor-eh?
Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-veh-dair-chee I would like … Vorrei … vor-ray
Good evening Buona sera bwon-ah sair-ah Do you have …? Avete …? ah-veh-teh…?
morning la mattina lah mah-tee-nah I’m just looking.Sto soltanto stoh sol-tan-toh
afternoon il pomeriggio eel poh-meh-ree-joh guardando. gwar-dan-doh
evening la sera lah sair-ah Do you take Accettate ah-chet-tah-teh kar-teh
credit cards? carte di credito? dee creh-dee-toh?
yesterday ieri ee-air-ee
What time do you A che ora apre/ ah keh or-ah ah-preh/
today oggi oh-jee
open/close? chiude? kee-oo-deh?
tomorrow domani doh-mah-nee this one questo kweh -stoh
here qui kwee that one quello kwell -oh
there la lah expensive caro kar-oh
What? Quale? kwah-leh? cheap a buon prezzo ah bwon pret-soh
When? Quando? kwan-doh? size, clothes la taglia lah tah-lee-ah
Why? Perchè? pair-keh? size, shoes il numero eel noo-mair-oh
Where? Dove? doh-veh white bianco bee-ang-koh
black nero neh-roh
Useful Phrases red rosso ross-oh
yellow giallo jal-loh
How are you? Come sta? koh-meh stah? green verde vair-deh
Very well, Molto bene, moll-toh beh-neh blue blu bloo
thank you. grazie. grah-tsee-eh brown marrone mar-roh-neh
Pleased to Piacere di pee-ah-chair-eh dee
meet you. conoscerla. coh-noh-shair-lah
See you soon. A più tardi. ah pee-oo tar-dee Types of Shop
That’s fine. Va bene. va beh-neh antique dealer l’antiquario lan-tee-kwah-ree-oh
Where is/are …? Dov’è/Dove sono …? dov-eh/doveh soh-noh? bakery la panetteria lah pah-net-tair-ree-ah
How long does Quanto tempo ci kwan-toh tem-poh bank la banca lah bang-kah
it take to get to …? vuole per chee voo-oh-leh pair bookshop la libreria lah lee-breh-ree-ah
andare a …? an-dar-eh ah …? butcher’s la macelleria lah mah-chell-eh-ree-ah
How do I get to....? Come faccio per koh-meh fah-choh cake shop la pasticceria lah pas-tee-chair-ee-ah
arrivare a …? pair arri-var-eh ah…? chemist’s la farmacia lah far-mah-chee-ah
Do you speak Parla inglese? par-lah een-gleh-zeh? delicatessen la salumeria lah sah-loo-meh-ree-ah
English? department store il grande eel gran-deh
I don’t understand. Non capisco. non ka-pee-skoh magazzino mag-gad-zee-noh
Could you speak Può parlare pwoh par-lah-reh fishmonger’s la pescheria lah pess-keh-ree-ah
more slowly, please? più lentamente, pee-oo len-ta-men-teh florist il fioraio eel fee-or-eye-oh
per favore? pair fah-vor-eh greengrocer il fruttivendolo eel froo-tee-ven-doh-loh
I’m sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dee-spee-ah-cheh grocery alimentari ah-lee-men-tah-ree
hairdresser il parrucchiere eel par-oo-kee-air-eh
Useful Words ice cream parlour la gelateria lah jel-lah-tair-ree-ah
market il mercato eel mair-kah-toh
big grande gran-deh newsstand l’edicola leh-dee-koh-lah
small piccolo pee-koh-loh post office l’ufficio postale loo-fee-choh pos-tah-leh
hot caldo kal-doh shoe shop il negozio di eel neh-goh-tsioh dee
cold freddo fred-doh scarpe skar-peh
good buono bwoh-noh supermarket il supermercato su-pair-mair-kah-toh
bad cattivo kat-tee-voh tobacconist il tabaccaio eel tah-bak-eye-oh
enough basta bas-tah travel agency l’agenzia di viaggi lah-jen-tsee-ah dee
well bene beh-neh vee-ad-jee
open aperto ah-pair-toh
closed chiuso kee-oo-zoh
left a sinistra ah see-nee-strah Sightseeing
right a destra ah dess-trah art gallery la pinacoteca lah peena-koh-teh-kah
straight on sempre dritto sem-preh dree-toh bus stop la fermata lah fair-mah-tah
near vicino vee-chee-noh dell’autobus dell ow-toh-booss
far lontano lon-tah-noh church la chiesa lah kee-eh-zah
up su soo la basilica lah bah-seel-i-kah
down giù joo closed for the chiuso per la kee-oo-zoh pair lah
early presto press-toh public holiday festa fess-tah
late tardi tar-dee garden il giardino eel jar-dee-no
entrance entrata en-trah-tah library la biblioteca lah beeb-lee-oh-teh-kah
exit uscita oo-shee-ta museum il museo eel moo-zeh-oh
toilet il gabinetto eel gah-bee-net-toh railway station la stazione lah stah-tsee-oh-neh
free, unoccupied libero lee-bair-oh tourist l’ufficio loo-fee-choh
free, no charge gratuito grah-too-ee-toh information turistico too-ree-stee-koh
320  Phrase book
Staying in a Hotel il latte eel laht-teh milk

i legumi/ ee leh-goo-mee/ vegetables
Do you have any Avete camere libere? ah-veh-teh kah- i contorni ee kon-tor-nee
vacant rooms? mair-eh lee-bair-eh? il manzo eel man-tsoh beef
double room una camera doppia oona kah-mair-ah la melanzana lah meh-lan-tsah- aubergine
doh-pee-ah nah
with double bed con letto kon let-toh mah-tree- la minestra lah mee-ness-trah soup
matrimoniale moh-nee-ah-leh il pane eel pah-neh bread
twin room una camera con oona kah-mair-ah il panino eel pah-nee-noh bread roll
due letti kon doo-eh let-tee le patate leh pah-tah-teh potatoes
single room una camera oona kah-mair-ah le patatine fritte leh pah-tah-teen-eh chips
singola sing-goh-lah free-teh
room with a una camera oona kah-mair-ah il pepe eel peh-peh pepper
bath, shower con bagno, kon ban-yoh, la pesca lah pess-kah peach
con doccia kon dot-chah il pesce eel pesh-eh fish
porter il facchino eel fah-kee-noh il pollo eel poll-oh chicken
key la chiave lah kee-ah-veh il prosciutto eel pro-shoo-toh ham
I have a Ho fatto una oh fat-toh oona preh- cotto/crudo kot-toh/kroo-doh cooked/cured
reservation. prenotazione. noh-tah-tsee-oh-neh
il riso eel ree-zoh rice
il sale eel sah-leh salt
Eating Out la salsiccia lah sal-see-chah sausage
le seppie leh sep-pee-eh cuttlefish
Have you got a Avete una tavola ah-veh-teh oona a table
secco sek-koh dry
table for ...? per …? tah-voh-lah pair …?
la sogliola lah soll-voh-lah sole
I’d like to reserve Vorrei riservare vor-ray ree-sair-vah-
i spinaci ee spee-nah-chee spinach
a table. una tavola. reh oona tah-voh-lah
succo d’arancia/ soo-koh orange/lemon
breakfast colazione koh-lah-tsee-oh-neh
di limone dah-ran-chah/ juice
lunch pranzo pran-tsoh
dee lee-moh-neh
dinner cena cheh-nah
The bill, please. Il conto, per eel kon-toh pair il tè eel teh tea
favore. fah-vor-eh la tisana lah tee-zah-nah herbal tea
I am a vegetarian. Sono vegetariano/a. soh-noh veh-jeh-tar il tonno eel ton-noh tuna
ee-ah-noh/nah la torta lah tor-tah cake/tart
waitress cameriera kah-mair-ee-air-ah la trippa lah treep-pah tripe
waiter cameriere kah-mair-ee-air-eh vino bianco vee-noh bee-ang-koh white wine
fixed price il menù a eel meh-noo ah menu vino rosso vee-noh ross-oh red wine
prezzo fisso pret-soh fee-soh il vitello eel vee-tell-oh veal
dish of the day piatto del giorno pee-ah-toh dell jor-no le vongole leh von-goh-leh clams
starter antipasto an-tee-pass-toh lo zucchero loh zoo-kair-oh sugar
first course il primo eel pree-moh gli zucchini lyee dzu-kee-nee courgettes
main course il secondo eel seh-kon-doh la zuppa lah tsoo-pah soup
vegetables il contorno eel kon-tor-noh
dessert il dolce eel doll-cheh Numbers
cover charge il coperto eel koh-pair-toh
wine list la lista dei lah lee-stah day 1 uno oo-noh
vini vee-nee 2 due doo-eh
rare al sangue al sang-gweh 3 tre treh
medium al puntino al poon-tee-noh 4 quattro kwat-roh
well done ben cotto ben kot-toh 5 cinque ching-kweh
glass il bicchiere eel bee-kee-air-eh 6 sei say-ee
bottle la bottiglia lah bot-teel-yah 7 sette set-teh
knife il coltello eel kol-tell-oh 8 otto ot-toh
fork la forchetta lah for-ket-tah 9 nove noh-veh
spoon il cucchiaio eel koo-kee-eye-oh 10 dieci dee-eh-chee
11 undici oon-dee-chee
12 dodici doh-dee-chee
Menu Decoder 13 tredici tray-dee-chee
l’acqua minerale lah-kwah mee-nair- mineral water 14 quattordici kwat-tor-dee-chee
gasata/naturale ah-leh gah-zah-tah/ fizzy/still 15 quindici kwin-dee-chee
nah-too-rah-leh 16 sedici say-dee-chee
l’agnello lahn-yell-oh lamb 17 diciassette dee-chah-set-teh
al forno al for-noh baked 18 diciotto dee-chot-toh
alla griglia ah-lah greel-yah grilled 19 diciannove dee-chah-noh-veh
l’anguilla lahng-gwee-lah eel 20 venti ven-tee
l’aragosta lah-rah-goss-tah lobster 30 trenta tren-tah
arrosto ar-ross-toh roast 40 quaranta kwah-ran-tah
il baccalà eel bahk-kah-lah dried salted cod 50 cinquanta ching-kwan-tah
la birra lah beer-rah beer 60 sessanta sess-an-tah
la bistecca lah bee-stek-kah steak 70 settanta set-tan-tah
il brodetto eel-broh-det-toh fish soup 80 ottanta ot-tan-tah
il burro eel boor-oh butter 90 novanta noh-van-tah
il caffè eel kah-feh coffee 100 cento chen-toh
i calamari ee kah-lah-mah-ree squid 1,000 mille mee-leh
il carciofo eel kar-choff-oh artichoke 2,000 duemila doo-eh mee-lah
la carne la kar-neh meat 5,000 cinquemila ching-kweh mee-lah
carne di maiale kar-neh dee pork 1,000,000 un milione oon meel- yoh-neh
mah-yah-leh
i fagioli ee fah-joh-lee beans Time
il fegato eel fay-gah-toh liver
il formaggio eel for-mad-joh cheese one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
le fragole leh frah-goh-leh strawberries one hour un’ora oon or-ah
il fritto misto eel free-toh mees-toh mixed fried fish half an hour mezz’ora medz-or-ah
la frutta la froot-tah fruit a day un giorno oon jor-noh
frutti di mare froo-tee dee mah-reh seafood a week una settimana oona set-tee-mah-nah
i funghi ee foon-ghee mushrooms Monday lunedì loo-neh-dee
i gamberi ee gam-bair-ee prawns Tuesday martedì mar-teh-dee
il gelato eel jel-lah-toh ice cream Wednesday mercoledì mair-koh-leh-dee
l’insalata mista leen-sah-lah-tah mixed salad Thursday giovedì joh-veh-dee
mees-tah Friday venerdì ven-air-dee
l’insalata verde leen-sah-lah-tah green salad Saturday sabato sah-bah-toh
vehr-day Sunday domenica doh-meh-nee-kah

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Main Contributors Susie Boulton, Christopher Catling

Specialist Holidays and Phrase Book 319

Cross section of the

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Venice Area by Area VENICE AREA BY AREA  77

lagoon islands make up a sixth showpiece of the Serenissima was the

area. Each area has its own

chapter, which opens with a Churches

other areas of the city.

the sights are numbered and

plotted on an Area Map. The

detailed information for each

sight is presented in numerical

For easy reference, the

Sant' Angelo di SAN LUCA

order, making it easy to locate

SAN BENETO CAMPO CO

sights are numbered and

within the chapter.

located on a map. The

Du CAMPO SAN REALI

sights are also shown on

C BARO San Marco

al SAN VIDAL San Marco

the Venice Street Finder

Sights at a Glance lists

the chapter’s sights by

See also Street Finder

Historic Buildings; Palaces; 94  VENICE AREA BY AREA SAN MARCO  95

Streets, Bridges and Squares. Street-by-Street: Around La Fenice

San Fantin, with a

role of escorting prisoners to the scaffold. The narrow streets

excellent restaurants but, being San Marco, the prices CO

in the majority of establishments are fairly steep. D

house where he once lived.

This gives a bird’s-eye

view of the heart of

w Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

A This palazzo is often difficult to find, but

each sightseeing area. phoenix”) after a fire in

Stars indicate the sights that no CA

visitor should miss.

RIO SAL SAN MOISE times, was the street

where citizens went to

arrive for their night out by gondola. sell exotic clothes.

98  VENICE AREA BY AREA

interesting streets in the area.

Close to the Rialto, the square

numbers, nearest vaporetto

The interior of this church is an

The Veneto Area by Area

168  THE VENETO AREA BY AREA THE VENETO PLAIN  169

Exploring the Veneto Plain

the distant Alps. Valstagna Susegana ano Udine,

and gives an illustrated

overview of the whole region.

All the sights are numbered