TUGAS 2

Teknologi Solida
Nizar Rahmatun Najih, S.Farm., Apt.
Sabtu, 14-09-2019

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KOSMETIK

A. Jawablah pertanyaan berikut,

1. Apa perbedaan obat dan kosmetik?
2. Apa yang anda ketahui dari sediaan kosmetik “LIPSTIK” ?
3. Sebutkan persyaratan dari sediaan kosmetik “LIPSTIK” !
4. Sebutkan komponen penting yang terkandung dalam sediaan kosmetik
“LIPSTIK” serta jelaskan fungsinya !
5. Jelaskan tahapan pembuatan dari sediaan kosmetik “LIPSTIK” !
6. Sebutkan jenis evaluasi mutu yang perlu dilakukan/ diuji terhadap sediaan
kosmetik “LIPSTIK” !

B. Buatlah ringkasan dari jurnal penelitian yang terlampir dibawah ini !

SELAMAT MENGERJAKAN
 Research Article Sathish et al.,
eISSN 2249-5797

Journal of Advanced Pharmaceutical Sciences

PREPARATION AND EVALUATION OF SALICYLIC ACID
MEDICATED LIPSTICK
Sathish.S*, Mahesh.Ch, Saikat Das, Lavanya.V, Suresh.B

Department of Pharmaceutical analysis, S.R.R. College of Pharmaceutical Sciences

Valbhapur, Elkathurthy, Karimnagar-505 476, Andhra Pradesh, India.
Email: sathishhhh47@gmail.com
Abstract: The word cosmetic, kosmetiko, means “skilled in adornment.” Kosmein means “arrange,” or
“adorn.” Kosmos means “order:” it also means “to make for beauty, especially of the complextion, or beautifying”;
it also means “done or made for the sake of appearance,” or “correcting defects especially of the face.” More than
that it is “decorative” or “ornamental”. Beauty has remained as an integral part of the human life. Cosmetics played
an incredible role in the history of mankind. Women have used all available means and material and have invented
many cosmetics to look beautiful in the eyes of men. Women also used ground alabaster or plaster of Paris as a
ground powder mixed with bear’s fat to make a paste. Cochineal blended with Arabic gum, egg white, and fig milk
was also used as a lip cosmetic. Lipstick formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and to add
glamour’s touch to the makeup. Applying of lipsticks is very difficult to the dried, chapped, cracked, chafed lips
with lesions. The formulation and preparation of medicated lipstick is intended for the purpose of beautification of
lips and curing lip infections. Salicylic acid & Zinc oxide were selected as a model drug for the local action on lips.
In vitro evaluation was done on bovine lip membrane, and the data suggested that the drug remained on the
membrane only and did not diffuse through the membrane in diffusion studies for 6 h. After 6 h, 0.16% drug release
was observed till 12 h. Salicylic acid was selected as the model drug for local action on the lips, it has keratinolytic
properties are applied topically in the treatment of hyperkeratosis but the acid has a burning effect use of menthol
and honey minimizes the burning sensation by moisturizing the lips and leaving a cool sensation. Zinc oxide works
by forming a barrier on the lips to protect it from irritants/moisture & also prevent diaper rash and other minor lip
irritations (e.g., burns, cuts, scrapes).The medicated lipstick is formulated by using cow ghee and honey as natural
excipients that substituted synthetic ingredients like isopropyl myristate, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, and castor oil. Thus,
the medicated lipsticks with the natural ingredients like cow ghee and honey can serve as economical and effective
cosmoceutical product. The prepared lipsticks are evaluated for organoleptic properties such as spreading, covering
property, hardness, shine, and gloss and found to be satisfactory product to give attractive beauty with therapeutic
effect on the diseased lips.
Key words: Salicylic acid, bovine lip membrane, cow ghee, honey, lipstick.

Introduction:
Lipstick is generally accepted as an essential and
The practice of applying colour to cheeks and lips
leading makeup device available in verity of luster
is very old. In ancient time, natural materials used
and texture. It is composed mainly of a oil-wax
to be applied. Greeks used to colour their lips with
base, stift enough to form a stick with a staining
a root called polderos. Today, lipstick is one of
dye dissolved or dispersed in oil, and pigment
the most widely used cosmetic by women.
suspended there in, suitably performed and
Lipstick is used to make appearance of lips by
flavored, molded and enclosed in a case. Lipstick
imparting colour. Narrow lips can be made to
impart attractive colour, glossy appearances to
appear wider by applying lipsticks above the
lips, accentuating good point and distinguishing
upper lip line.(1)
the defects. It also prevents cracking and chafing
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of lips which lead to bacterial infection. It also
provides emollient action on lips.(2)
Lipstick formulations are most widely used to
enhance the beauty of lips and to add glamour
touch to the make up(3). Any preparations used in
beauty treatments for lip make-up also known as
sticks or more commonly known in beauty
treatments by the name of lipsticks. When these
preparations contain active ingredients, they are
also known as medicated lipsticks.(4)
Medicated lipsticks-Glamorous medication
option:
Medicated cosmetics can be used to cure skin
problems by achieving esthetic sense. Lipsticks
are cosmetic formulations for the modification or
accentuation of lip colour and are prepared by
moulding a dispersion of colours in a waxy base,
in the form of stick/crayon (5). The consumption of
lipsticks in makeup preparation field exceeds that
of any other product. Rather than decreasing in
use, they possess increasing popularity. No
substitute has been found to replace them (6).
Lipsticks provide a convenient means of either
freshening a makeup by coloring or protection of
lips from the effects of cold, dry weather, UV
light, and wind (7).
Suitable drug candidates for medicated lipsticks
are local acting agents including soothing, anti-
irritant agent, skin protectant, keratolytic agent,
steroids, antibiotics, and anti-inflammatory
agents. Salicylic acid was selected as a drug of
choice because of their anti-irritating, keratolytic,
abrasive, astringent, healing, moisturizing
properties, soothing and non-toxic agent and used
in the treatment of skin ulcers, wound, scalds,
burns, sunburns, carbuncles, acne skin eruptions,
fissures and abrasions ,impetigo ,eczema and
psoriasis. It is effective at quite low concentration,
0.1-2%w/w.(8)
Aim and objective of the present study
was to formulate medicated lipsticks with cow
ghee and honey as natural excipients that replaced
conventional synthetic vehicles of lipsticks. The
castor oil was replaced by cow ghee and
formulations were subjected to the different Fig1: water in oil emulsion Honey (colorless
evaluation. Honey helps to promote tissue droplets) as water phase wax and ghee (colored
droplets) as oily phase
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Sathish et al.,
regeneration, and helps in healing; antibacterial
activity of honey is largely due to the presence of
hydrogen peroxide (9). Cow ghee has a great
historical background for skin care and
nourishment and is highly effective for all sorts of
skin rashes. It also acts as a moisturizer (10).
Materials and methods
Materials:
Salicylic acid and carminosine colour lake
obtained as gift sample from the Dr. Reddy’s
Laboratories. Honey (A grade) and cow ghee was
purchased from the market. Waxes and other
excipients of AR grade were used from the Prasad
Institute of Pharmaceutical sciences.
Methodology
Preparation of lipstick base: (7),(11),(12)
Colour lake was triturated and dissolved in cow
ghee at 500C, weighed amount of bees wax and
carnauba wax were melted at 800C. Colour phase
was added to molten wax phase and cooled at
600C, followed by addition of honey. The mixture
was stirred vigorously till a smooth emulsion was
formed.
Table 1: Preparation of lipstick base:
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Beeswax 10
Carnauba wax 8
Lanolin 5
Cetyl alcohol 5
Castor oil 65
Isopropyl myristate 5
 Sathish et al.,

Preparation of medicated (Salicylic acid) (SLS), slowly this mixture was added with
lipstick: continuous stirring at 500 rpm using overhead
Accurately weighed amount of Salicylic acid was stirrer (universal motor). The mixture was poured
dissolved in 0.5ml water by using 0.05% in clean and lubricated moulds & chilled to
surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), slowly achieve contraction of the waxes to facilitate easy
this mixture was added with continuous stirring at removal of the stick.
500 rpm using overhead stirrer (universal motor). Table 4: Preparation of medicated (Salicylic
The mixture was poured in clean and lubricated acid & Zinc oxide) lipstick:
moulds & chilled to achieve contraction of the Ingredients Quantity (%)
waxes to facilitate easy removal of the stick. Bees wax 10
Table 2: Preparation of medicated (Salicylic Carnauba wax 8
acid) lipstick: Ghee 75
Ingredients Quantity (%) Honey 5
Bees wax 10 Zinc oxide 0.5
Carnauba wax 8 Salicylic acid 0.5
Ghee 75 Colour 2
Honey 5 Sodium lauryl sulphate 0.05
Salicylic acid 0.5 Propyl paraben 0.05
Colour 2 Evaluation parameters
Sodium lauryl sulphate 0.05 1) Melting point:(7),(11)
Propyl paraben 0.05 Lipstick sample of 50mg was taken. This was
Preparation of medicated (Zinc oxide) lipstick: melted and filled into a glass capillary tube open
Accurately weighed amount of Zinc oxide was on both the ends. This capillary tube was cooled
dissolved in 0.5ml water by using 0.05% in ice for about 2 hours and fastens it to a
surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), slowly thermometer. This assembly was dipped into a
this mixture was added with continuous stirring at beaker full of water and was heated with
500 rpm using overhead stirrer (universal motor). continuous stirring. The temperature at which the
The mixture was poured in clean and lubricated material moves along threw capillary tube was
moulds & chilled to achieve contraction of the considered its melting point.
waxes to facilitate easy removal of the stick. 2) Softening point(ring and ball method)(7)
Table 3: Preparation of medicated (Zinc oxide) The lipstick sample was inserted into an
lipstick:
aluminum ring. Extra mass above and below the
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Bees wax 10 orifice was removed using a sharp blade to get a
Carnauba wax 8 lipstick tablet into the ring. This was placed in a
Ghee 75 refrigerator (60C) for 10mins. After removing it
Honey 5 from the refrigerator, the ring was fastened onto a
Zinc oxide 0.5 stand and a steel ball was delicately placed on the
Colour 2 lipstick tablet. This assembly was dipped into a
Sodium lauryl sulphate 0.05 beaker full of water. Temperature was monitored
Propyl paraben 0.05 using a thermometer. Softening point was the
Preparation of medicated (Salicylic acid &
temperature at which both the lipstick mass and
Zinc oxide) lipstick:
Accurately weighed amount of Zinc oxide & the steel ball were loosened and falls to the
Salicylic acid was dissolved in 0.5ml water by bottom of the beaker.
using 0.05% surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate
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 Sathish et al.,

maintained at 320C by circulation thermostatic

water inside the cell jacket. Sampling was done 1hr
interval and analyzed under UV at 220nm for 8hrs.

Fig2: Assembly for softening point evaluation

3) Breaking load test:(7)
The protruded lipstick salve was subjected to a
number of weights hanging from it. The weight at
which the lipstick breaks was its breaking load.
Fig3: Assembly for the breaking load test.
4) Stability studies:
The lipsticks were placed for stability studies at
temperature 40C (in refrigerator), 20-250C(at room
temperature), 30-400C(in oven) and were observed
for effects like sweating ,bleeding, streaking,
blooming.
5) Permeation studies:(13),(14),(15)
Lip membrane from freshly slaughtered cattle was
recovered and washed for removing adhering matter
and tissues. The same was placed on the diffusion
cell, and 50mg of lipstick mass was applied on the
membrane. This was magnetically stirred (600rpm);
receiving phase was isotonic, pH 6.4 phosphate
buffer. The experimental temperature was
Fig4: Assembly for permeation studies
Results and discussion
Preparation of lipstick base:
The lipstick base prepared was found to be
satisfactory in all aspects as per ideal base
requirement, i.e., hardness, spreadability, shine,
spreading, and smoothness.
Preparation of medicated lipstick:
The medicated lipsticks prepared were found to be
satisfactory in all aspects as per ideal requirement,
i.e., hardness, spread ability, shine, spreading,
smoothness, colour, taste, and odour (table 5).
Melting point:
The melting point of medicated lipstick was found
to be 650C. At this temperature, lipstick mass
through the capillary, this complies with literature
limits of 60-650C.
Softening point (ring and ball method):
Softening point was the temperature at which the
lipstick mass and steel ball was loosened and falls
to the bottom of the beaker .It was found to be
580C, which complies with literature limits of 50-
600C.
Breaking load test:
The weight at which the lipstick breaks was found
to be 288.67 g. So it was observed that the lipstick
was strong enough to withstand pressure of
application.

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Stability studies:
The lipstick was placed in stability chamber at
temperature 4 c in refrigerator, 20-250C at room
temperature, 30-400 C in oven and was observed
that there were no sweating, bleeding, streaking
and blooming.
Permeation studies:
In vitro permeability profile depicted no
permeability of salicylic acid across bovine lip
membrane; therefore, the prepared lipstick will be
a better one for UV protection and other topical
properties for which drug must remain on the lips
instead of getting permeated.
Medicated lipstick of salicylic acid was prepared
for treatment of cracked, chapped lips and for UV
protection of lips. During this preparation,
excipients like ghee and honey were chosen for
better feel and patient compliance.
Honey will provide sweetness and will act as
moisturizer, whereas ghee will act as a natural
emollient, soothing and nourishing agent. To
make a lipstick having a good strength and
applicability, first an ideal lipstick base was
prepared by optimizing concentration of bees wax
carnauba wax and using affixed concentration of
lanolin, Cetyl alcohol, castor oil and isopropyl
myristate. The prepared lipstick A was evaluated
for stiffness, hardness and rigidity for
optimization.
After preparing a lipstick, castor oil was replaced
by cow ghee and its quantity was optimized. The
lipstick B was prepared by using different
concentration of ghee (50%, 20%, and 40%) with
respect to castor oil (0%,30%,and10%)were
evaluated for rub out property, smoothness,
softness and covering property, and 40% of ghee
was showing good smoothness and covering
property but were less as compared to the lipsticks
prepared by 50% of ghee .Upon evaluation it was
observed that ghee showed good covering
property, smoothness, spreadability, dispersion
colour and good gloss.
Therefore, in formulation C, lanolin, cetyl
alcohol, castor oil and isopropyl myristate was
removed and lipsticks containing only bee’s wax,
carnauba wax, ghee and colour were prepared.
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Sathish et al.,
After optimizing quantity of ghee in formulation,
C honey was incorporated into lipstick as a
sweetening and moisturizing agent. It was added
in different concentrations of 5%, 10% and
15%.These lipsticks containing honey were
evaluated for sweetening and moisturizing
property. Lipsticks containing 15% of honey
showed cracking of emulsion and phase
separation in resulting phase. Non uniformity and
setting were observed in the lipsticks using 10%
of honey. Lipsticks prepared by 5% honey
showed homogenous and uniformity with
optimum sweetness. Similarly lipsticks containing
5% of honey and 75% of ghee were considered to
be optimum for preparing medicated lipstick
containing salicylic acid. Upon evaluation these
lipsticks showed all desirable properties required
for a good lipstick. As reported in the studies
(0.1% up to 2%), 0.5% salicylic acid was
incorporated in the formulation 6a. This
medicated lipstick showed grittiness during
application because of the presence of crystalline
particles of salicylic acid.
To avoid the grittiness, D salicylic acid was
dissolved by preparing water in oil emulsion. This
medicated lipstick was evaluated for
characteristics like stiffness, hardness, rigidity,
spreadability, gloss, covering property, rub out
property, smoothness, sweetening and
moisturizing property. It was observed that
medicated lipstick (table 3) showed satisfactory
results in all these above aspects.
In vitro permeability profile depicted no
permeability of salicylic acid across bovine lip
membrane; therefore the prepared lipstick will be
a better one for UV protection and other topical
properties for which drug must remain on the lips
instead of getting permeated.
Conclusion
The effects of the different natural ingredients on
physical properties, consumer acceptance and
curing the lips, in the formulation have been
investigated. The natural ingredients like ghee and
honey were used in the formulation of medicated
lipsticks along with salicylic acid as a drug. The
research also provides guidelines on effect of
 Sathish et al.,

ingredients in treatment of lips and consumer
acceptance of formulation. The prepared lipsticks
were show excellent properties like shining,
spreading and smoothness of lips. The medicated
lipsticks of salicylic acid have not exhibited
systemic drug release through the bovine lip
membrane for 6 h, thus showing maximum local
effect on lips.
References:
1. P.P Sharma, cometics- formulation,
th
manufacturing & quality control 4 ed, 291-292.
2. Swarnalata saraf, shailendra saraf, cosmetics, a
practical manual, pg.10.
3. United States pharmacopoeia, 2002.
4. Indian pharmacopoeia, volume-II, 1996
5. Schlossman ML. Manufacturing process for color
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202.
6. Simmons JV. The science of cosmetics. 2nd ed.
1995. p. 139
7. Nanda S, Nanda A, Khar RK. Cosmetic
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Organ United Nation 1996; 55:117-314.
10. Medicated properties and uses of ghee. Arya
Bhishak Sastu Sahita. Gujarat: Yardhak
Karayalaya; 1961. p. 672-3.
11. Balsam S. Cosmetics, science and technology.
2nd ed. 1992. p. 365-92.
12. Transfer resistant high lusture lipstick
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13. Monti D, Saccomani L, Chetoni P, Burgalassi S,
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Stationery Office: London: 2004. p. 75-6.

Table 5: Ratio of waxes and excipients

Quantity of Ingredients (%) Parameters for
Formula
BW CW L CA IM CO GH HO D M evaluation
A 10 5 5 5 5 65 - - - - Stiffness and hardness

B 10 8 - 5 5 65 - - - - Spreading and softness

Emollient, soothing,
smoothness, colour
C 10 8 5 5 5 - 50 - - -
uniformity on
application
Protective, healing and
D 10 8 - - - - 50 5 0.5 0.25
soothing

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