Vollume 6, Issue 1, Spring20009

CAUSTICIZING SE FABRICS
G OF VISCOS

M. İ. Bahtiyari,
B K. Duran,
D A. E. Körlü,
K M. Bahhar, A. Özerddem, S. Perinccek
Egge University, Department of Textile Enngineering, Izmmir, Turkey
aysegul.ekkmekci@ege..edu.tr

AB
BSTRACT

Viscose treatment needs high carec and know w-how. Becauuse viscose faabrics are moore susceptiblle
to thee chemical prrocesses. In thhis study, cauusticizing whiich is generallly found to bee dangerous in
i
the prretreatment off viscose fabrrics was appliied to viscosee fabrics. It was
w found thaat the usage of o
caustiic-soda in prretreatment of o viscose fabrics ensuredd considerabble advantagees in terms of o
pillingg degree and
d color efficienncy in textile printing and dyeing. Afterr causticizingg the surface of
o
the faabrics became smoother, fuzzyf of the fabric decreased and thee crystallinityy of the fabriic
increaased. In add dition, perforrming a caussticizing befo fore dyeing anda printing with reactivve
dyestuuffs caused ann increase in the color efficiency.

Keywords: Causticcizing, reactivve dyestuff, dyyeing, printing, viscose, pilling, FTIR

1. INT
TRODUCTIION
The demand
d for viscose
v fibers is increasingg
day byb day becau use of their natural
n originn
and high
h comfortt in wear. Thanks to thee
recentt productionn techniques, today it iss
possibble to prov vide all kindds of usagee
expecctations by the
t regeneratted cellulosee
fiberss. Unfortunaately, some prroblems suchh
as hiigh fibrillatioon/pilling teendency, low w
repeattability andd low unifo formity afterr
dyeinng and prin nting can occuro duringg
processing of viscoose fabrics. [11, 2, 14, 18].
Cellullases are useed to removee the fuzz orr
pills on
o the fiber or
o fabric surfaace for a longg
time. There are a lot
l of studies on the use off
cellulases and some other parameterss
affectted the bio-ppolishing [3-113]. But thee
pillingg and fuzz of the visccose fabric’ss
surfacce did not decrease
d suffficiently withh
comm mercial cellullases [14, 155]. Moreover,,
caustiicizing processs has been seeen to restrictt
the pilling
p problem m of viscose fabrics. It waas
reporrted that fibrills on the surfaace of the fiberrs
are stripped,
s solveed by causticizzing, thus fibeer
smooothens and sw wells. Swolleen fibers causse
the fabric
f to gain more
m compactt structure, thuus
reduce pilling formmation [14, 166].
Besiides the inncrease in the swellinng
tendency, with the aid off causticizinng
proccess, color efficiency of o the fabriic
signiificantly increeases in the further
f printinng
and dyeing proceesses. Since dye uptake of o
the viscose fabrric increasess and dyeinng
becoomes more evven after the treatment
t witth
4-6 % caustic-sooda, it is reccommended to t
applyy 6-8 Bé cauustic-soda. Buut this increasse
in coolor efficienccy in the printting of viscosse
mateerials causedd by causticizing changees
accoording to the dyestuff used u and thhe
darkkness of the prrint [2, 17, 18].
On the
t other handd, it is well known
k that anny
kindd of textile pretreatment
p c
conventionallly

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used in practice influences thhe fiber finee blade 8 mm inn diameter in laboratorry
structture. Smole et. al. inveestigated thee condditions (Figure 2, Table 1)..
effectt of bleacching and causticizingg
processes on th he crystallinnity of thee Raw Fabric
regennerated fabrics. They reported
r thatt
amonng these pretreatment processes,,
Bleaching
changges in fine structures
s weere especiallyy
pronoounced after treating thee fibers withh
NaOH H due to the chemical changes causedd Causticizing
by cauusticizing. [2, 18-20].

Becauuse of all theese benefits, a systematicc Dyeing

g Printting

researrch was carried out in ordder to discusss

the geeneral idea th
hat causticizinng process iss ure 1. Tesst plan ussed for thhe
Figu
harmfful for viscose
v fabrrics duringg pretrreatment, dyeeing and printting of viscosse
pretreeatment. fabriic

2. EXPERIMEN
E NT Thenn, printed fabrics
f weree dried in a
laborratory type drying
d machiine (Rapid) at a
For the
t experimeents, 30/1 single
s jerseyy 100 0C for 3 minutes andd fixed on a
Lycraa/viscose knittted fabric with
w 310 g/m2 laborratory type steamer
s (Mathhis) at 102 0C
weighht was used inn accordancee with the testt for 10
1 minutes. Afterwards,
A washing-off waas
plan (Figure
( 1). perfoormed for both dyed and printed fabriccs
with cold waterr then a hot rinsing waas
All prretreatment and
a dyeing prrocesses weree perfoormed it was repeated
r till thhe rinsing wateer
realized on an overflow macchine with a will be clean andd finally a coold rinsing waas
capaccity of 50 kg and
a a stenter. Fabrics weree manaaged. During the treatment processes, sooft
printeed at 20 m/miin at 3 bars of
o pressure onn mill water (permuutit-water) was used.
a J. Zimmer
Z MDK K laboratory--type printingg
machiine with 70 Nr
N PES gauzee and a doctorr

Table 1. Process
P Condditions

Bleaaching Causticizzing Dyeing Printing

Dyestufff Procion HE--XL Impregnatio on Printin
ng paste*
with urea a
1 g/l
g Anticreasing ag gent 70.7 g/l NaaOH % 2.613 Gelb 150 g/l ureaa Dyestuff (Ciibacron)
1 g/l
g Metal complexiing 1.259 Crimsoon AF = 75 % Yellow P-2RRN 10 g
agennt 2.43 Marinee Red P 4B 5g
1 g/l
g Wetting agent Blue P 3R 10 g
0.2 g/l Stabilizer Urea 150 g
4.0 g/l H2O2 (50%) MT % 4) 600 g
Alginate (SM
4.0 g/l Na2CO3 35 0C,15 min Ludigol 10 g
LR 1/15 NaCl (g/ll) 65 NaHCO3 30 g
0
85 C, 30 min LR 1/15 Na2CO3 (g/l) 20 Water/Paste ~ g
-------------
L.R 1/15 10000 g
*Forr all printing proceesses, viscosity of the printing paste has been measureed by Brookfield RVTR viscosimeter using
u number 5
spinndle at 20 Rpm speeed and 60 poise viiscosity has been considered
c as the basis.
b

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 Na 2CO3 Na 2CO3
30 min 30 min
85°C 20 min 5 min 30 min

1°C/min

SALT
T DYES
20 min
25°C
2 Dyeing Proocess
Figure 2.

In orrder to evalu uate the resuults obtained,, Moreeover, strenggth loss was measured on o
pillingg tests were realized accoording to thee Jamees J Heal burrsting strengthh measuremennt
ASTM M 3512 and K/S values of dyed andd devicce (7.5 cm² arrea and 30.5 mmm diaphragm m
printeed fabrics were
w determiined with a diam
meter) and FT T-IR analysis of fabrics waas
Minollta CM
M 3600dd Modell carrieed out with Peerkin Elmer Sppectrum 100.
Specttralphotometeer. Surface modificationn
was evvaluated by taaking fabric phhotographs onn 3. RESULTS
R A
AND DISCUSSION
Moticc trade mark microprojection
m n device.
3.1. Pilling Valu
ues

Not Caustticized & Dyeed Fabric Causticized & Dyed Fabric

Figure 3. Microscopic
M v
views of caustticized and noot causticizedd fabrics after dyeing

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In ordder to evaluate pilling values
v of endd of cellulosic faabrics [17]. Beyond thhe
produuct, the pilling test was caarried out forr geneeral applicatioon of causticc-soda, in thhis
both causticized and not cauusticized andd studyy the viscose fabric treatedd with causticc-
then dyed
d fabrics.. As a result, it was seenn sodaa in high conccentrations inn an exhaustioon
that the
t causticizeed one had betterb pillingg machhine. The results in Tablle 2 show thhe
value. While thee pilling vaalue of nott K/S values of causticizeed and noot
caustiicized & dyed d fabric was 3,
3 it was 4 if a caussticized fabriccs which werre dyed in thhe
caustiicizing was carried
c out. This
T decreasee samee bath. It waas found thatt performing a
in thee pilling tend dency is signnificant sincee caussticizing befoore dyeing increases thhe
the commercial cellulases couuld not solvee colorr efficiency too much. For instance,
this problem pro operly in viiscose basedd whenn the K/S value of not caausticized dyeed
fabriccs yet [14]. fabriic was 23.28,, it increased to 33.17 witth
the causticizing
c b
before dyeing. This increasse
Photoographs of fab brics after pillling test weree (nearrly 40 %) caan provide thhe dyeing witth
taken on Motic traade mark microprojectionn low dye or low salt consum mption. This is
devicee with 10x magnification
m n in order too why it is importannt ecologicallly aspects.
confirrm the pilling
g test results. As
A a result, itt
was clearly
c seen from
f the Figuure 3 that thee 3.3. Color
C Efficieency After Prrinting
caustiicizing process has decreaased the fuzzz
of thee surface signiificantly. On the other hand,h causticcized and noot
caussticized fabriccs were printted too. It waas
3.2. Bursting
B Streength Losses founnd that the color efficieencies of thhe
printted samples increased
i significantly as a
The strength
s loss is also anothher parameterr resullt of such a pre-process (causticizingg)
affectts the usage of o the producct, because off befoore printing.
this bleached
b andd bleached & causticizedd
fabriccs’ bursting strength losses l weree Table 3. Color efficiencies of causticizeed
evaluaated after dy yeing. It was found thatt and not
n causticizeed fabrics afteer printing
caustiicizing did not affect the burstingg
strenggth of the fab bric. The bleaached viscosee K/S
fabricc had 366 kPa k of burstiing strength;; Nott Causticized
d Printed Fabbric 9.79
whichh was 359.3 kPa when a causticizingg Cauusticized Prin
nted Fabric 17.699
was performed
p aftter bleaching. So it can bee
easilyy told that caausticizing (m mentioned inn In other
o words, performingg causticizinng
Tablee 1) causes inconsideraable burstingg proccess before printing increaased the coloor
strenggth loss. This term wass claimed inn efficciency from 9.79
9 to 17.69 (nearly 80 %).
%
literatture too [2]. It iss thought thaat the main reason
r of this
increedible increasse is the sweelling of fiberrs
3.2. Color
C Efficien
ncy After Dyeing withh caustic-sodaa treatment which causees
highher dye uptakee.
Tablee 2. Color efficiencies
e o causticizedd
of
and not causticized
d fabrics afterr dyeing

K/S
Not Causticcized Dyed
N d 23.28
Fabric
C
Causticized Dyed
D Fabric 33.17

It is well-known that the imppregnation off

fabriccs with dilutted caustic-ssoda solutionn
has a positive effecct on the dyeiing propertiess

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3.4 FT
T-IR Analysis of dyeability
d annd printabiliity of treateed
viscoose fabric. The infraredd spectra arre
Specttral study of greige
g and treated viscosee showwn in Figure 4. Table 4 shhows the most
fabricc was exam mined to invvestigate thee signiificant bands that weree studied annd
changges in crystallline and amorrphous regionn analyyzed, andd their correspondinng
caused by caustic treatment.
t Allso, IR resultss assiggnment [20,21].
throw
w light on the cause of an improvementt

a b

ure 4. Infrareed spectra of greige

Figu g (a) andd treated viscoose fabric (b)

4 Characteristtic absorptionn bands of reggenerated celllulose fibers [20]

Table 4. [

Wavenumberr (cm-1) A
Assignment
3326 -OHH stretching
2890 -CH
H stretching
1650 -OHH of water abssorbed from cellulose
1420 CH
H2 symmetric bending
b
1365 C-H
H bending
1336 C-O
OH in plane beending
1316 CH
H2 wagging
1278 C-H
H bending
1235 C-O
OH in plane beending
1227 C-O
OH in plane beending
1200 OHH in plane bendding
1155 C-O
O-C asymmetrric stretching
894 Grooup C1 frequenncy

In thee literature, it is well know

wn that causticc and 1316 cm-1 shoow significannt differences
treatm
ment causes structural changes att in thheir absorbancces. The 13166 cm-1 band
regennerated cellulose fibers [220]. Studyingg assiggned to crystaalline cellulosse is much
the inntensity and shape evolutioon of infraredd moree intense in thhe treated visccose fabric
absorbbance bandss at 1400-1200 cm-1 iss than in the greigee fabric (Figurre 4). As a
mostly preferred d to definne structurall resullt, IR spectrumm of treated viscose
v fabricc
changges. show wed that causttic treatment improved
crysttallinity degreee of viscose fabric.
The absence
a of an appreciable band
b at 1430
and att 1111 cm-1 inndicates that crystalline
c
cellulose I is practiically non-exiistent in the
regennerated celluloose fibers. Bannds at 1336

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4. CONCLUSIO
C ONS wordds, performinng a causticcizing processs
befoore dyeing or printing incrreased the K//S
In thhis paper causticizing process wass value of samplles fairly. Meanwhile,
M n
no
determmined by com mparing the pilling
p degreee signiificant strengthh loss was measured
m and it
and thhe color valuees of the prinnted and dyedd becoomes more crystalline
c soo more stabille
fabriccs. It was founnd that in ordder to achievee againnst the subseqquent treatmeent processes.
a high color efficciency of thee dyeing andd
printinng, causticizzing must bee performed. In the view of ecoloogically annd
Moreoover, during causticizing,, since fiberss econnomically aspects, peerforming a
has swollen and got smootherr, the pillingg causstizing proccess can be readilly
tendenncy of fabricss was reducedd too. Thus, itt recommmended beecause it ensuures to achievve
is posssible to say y causticizingg is the mostt demanded color efficiency with
w the use of
o
imporrtant processs that directlly influencess loweer dyestuff.
the sttructure propeerties of fibers, dyeabilityy
and printability
p feeatures of fibbers. In otherr

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