Slow Sand Filters at Home

SLOW SAND FILTERS AT HOME
Introduction
The slow sand water filter project this site documents is well into its fourth year and starting its fourth
spring. It is ongoing and will continue as long as possible. This study has not taken place in a laboratory or
under the supervision of an academic institution; however, the tests have been done by epa certified testing
laboratories and the researcher has a four year degree from the University of Washington (class of 2006) in
environmental studies plus 35 years of experience in non-academic work. Chemicals used for drinking water
treatment such as chlorine, or ozone that produce toxic cancer causing byproducts are not used in these
filters. Before any water from a non-public utility monitored slow sand filter is used for drinking on a
regular basis, it is HIGHLY recommended that a UV filter be installed permanently in the water line to the
point of use. Also, keep in mind that "Backwashing" a biological sand filter will destroy it.; and that a
biological sand filter is constantly full of water up to and covering the top surface of the sand inside by at
least 1 inch or more - the sand must not be exposed to air.
The content of this site will change considerably as the study continues.
Rain barrels are now legal in Washington state! For over 90 years it has been illegal to catch rainwater in
Washington state.note 2 As of October 9 2009, catching roof water is no longer a crime! The department of
Ecology in Washington state (the D.O.E.) has finally clarified the law so as to allow individuals to catch
rainwater for their own use. (from this preceeding link, click on the links at the D.O.E. site on the upper right
hand side of their page that say "new" highlighted in yellow.)
So far work has been done on 7 different filter configurations. Three separate small slow sand
filters are involved:
Filter two (float valve installed 2011- Filter three

Filter one (external link) 04-07)
FLOW SUMMARY FOR TESTED SUCCESSFUL DESIGNS OF SMALL SLOW SAND WATER FILTERS
See faq 31 for an explanation of flow rates
or the U.S.D.A. site has a good explanation of water flow through sand
Filter 1 (fourth Filter 2* Filter 3 (with float valve flow Date.
configuration)* input: pond water control).
input: roof water top layer of sand: .15mm input: shallow well water
using first flush diverter. 3 effective size top layer of sand: .25mm effective
tab comp. roof. bottom layer: size
top layer of sand .15mm non-graded "fine" sand bottom layer: 35mm effective size.
effective size approx .30mm effective size container diameter: 22 inches
bottom layer of sand: container diameter: 22 inches sand surface area .2452 sq m
non-graded. approx. .65mm sand surface area .2452 sq m container depth: 40 inches
effective size container depth: 40 inches
electric pump recirculation at 2010-09-16: this filter now
less than 1 L/hr. has a float valve installed
container diameter: 23 inches
sand surface area .26791 sq
m
container depth: 30 inches
12 L/hr (10 cm supernatant
water depth) (.045 no measurement no measurement 2008-01-02
meters/hr)
3 L/hr (10 cm supernatant
water depth) (.011 m/hr) 12 no measurement no measurement 2008-12-01
months continuous operation
72 L/hr (20cm supernatant
90 L/hr (16.5cm supernatant
no measurement water depth) (.286 2009-02-08
water depth) (.358 meters/hr)
meters/hr)
14.1 L/hr (10 cm supernatant
water depth) (.053
42 L/hr (20cm supernatant
meters/hr) 2 months running 45 L/hr (16.5cm supernatant
water depth) (.167 2009-04-08
time water depth) (.179 meters/hr)
meters/hr)
was totally frozen in Dec
2008 / Jan 2009.
13.84 L/hr (14cm 40 L/hr (20cm supernatant
supernatant water depth) water depth) (.159 2009-04-26
water depth) (.191 meters/hr)**
(.052 meters/hr) meters/hr)
13 L/hr (14cm supernatant 36 L/hr (20cm supernatant
water depth) (.049 water depth) (.146 2009-05-11
water depth) (.183meters/hr)
meters/hr) meters/hr)
12 L/hr (14.5cm supernatant 36 L/hr (20cm supernatant
12 L/hr (14.5cm supernatant 36 L/hr (20cm supernatant
25.7 L/hr (18.5cm supernatant
22 L/hr (20 cm supernatant 28.8 L/hr (18.5 cm supernatant
water depth)(.09 meters/hr) water depth) (.117 meters/hr)
water depth) (.034 2009-09-21
added 48 liters of roof water added 48 liters of roof water from
meters/hr)
from diverter output diverter output
10.74 L/hr (14.5cm 22 L/hr (20cm supernatant
supernatant water depth) water depth)(.09 meters/hr)
(.040 meters/hr) added 12 (no significant change) 2009-10-08
added 48 liters of roof water from
litres of undiverted roof added 48 liters of roof water
diverter output
water from diverter output
9.24 L/hr (14.5cm
21 L/hr (20cm supernatant 21.81 L/hr (18.5cm supernatant
supernatant water depth) 2009-10-12
(.035 meters/hr)
20.57 L/hr (20cm supernatant
10.58 L/hr (14.5cm water depth)(.0839
supernatant water depth) meters/hr) 2009-11-05
source water changed to surface
(.039 meters/hr) source water changed to
well
surface well
9.00 L/hr (14.5cm
18.95 L/hr (20cm supernatant 19.46 L/hr (18.5cm supernatant
(.0335 meters/hr)
0 L/hr Filter frozen*** by 0 L/hr Filter frozen*** by 0 L/hr Filter frozen*** by below
2009-12-07
below 0°C weather below 0°C weather 0°C weather
11.25 L/hr (14.5cm
35 L/hr (20cm supernatant 30 L/hr (18.5cm supernatant
(.042 meters/hr)
11.25 L/hr (14.5cm
(.042 meters/hr)
8.37 L/hr (14.5cm
(.031 meters/hr)
9.47 L/hr (14.5cm
(.035 meters/hr)
8.47 L/hr (14.5cm
(.032 meters/hr)
8.47 L/hr (14.5cm
(.032 meters/hr)
10.3 L/hr (14.5cm
29 L/hr (20cm supernatant 34 L/hr (18.5cm supernatant
(.038 meters/hr)
11.15 L/hr (14.5cm
(.0416 meters/hr)
16L/hr (14.5cm supernatant 28 L/hr (20cm supernatant
water depth) (.0597 water depth)(.1142 2011-02-06
12.2L/hr (14.5cm
(.0455 meters/hr)
13.56L/hr (14.5cm 26.67 L/hr (20cm supernatant
supernatant water depth) water depth)(.1087 2011-04-16
(.0506 meters/hr) meters/hr)
Notes:
2009:
*Filter 2 and Filter 1 stopped flowing for three days due to below 0° C. temperature. 2009-03-11. All filters
were restarted at the beginning of 2009, as they were frozen and the biolayer in each was destroyed.
**The supernatant water depth was increased in filter 3 due to a change in the float valve setting after the
measurement taken 2009-04-08.
**48 L/hr at 18.5 cm actually represents a decrease in flow rate of L/hr per cm of water depth.
*** The temperatures have ranged from -2° C (28°F) during the day to -11°C (12°F) at night. The below
freezing weather actually started (2009-12-04) but the filters continued to flow until 2009-12-07.
2010 (including POND FILTER):

As of November 23 2010, All filters - filter1,2,3 and the pond filter are frozen and have ceased operation.
Some damage is expected. The temperature is at minus 9.5 degrees Centigrade night (15° F) and minus 5.5
degrees Centigrade day (22° F) with 7.6 cm (3 inches) of snow on the ground.
As of December 8 2010, All filters - filter 1, 2,3 and the pond filter are back on line and operating. The
pond filter stayed inoperative the longest. Possibly because the output pipe runs right through the frozen
water on the inside of the filter thus making it take longer to thaw out.
2011:
As of Jan 5 2011,Filter 1 and the pond filter are frozen and have not been running for 8 days. The
temperature at night has been minus 8 degrees Centigrade (17° F) and during the day 0 degrees Centigrade
(32° F). Additional snowfall was 10 cm ( about 4 inches) as of December 28. Filter 2 and filter 3 are still
running with water from the shallow well continuing to flow and filling the cistern which also has not frozen.
As of Feb. 06 2011 the pond filter is flowing at 144 l/hr. which is .553 meters per hour. (the sand surface
area is .2600 sq meters. This flow rate is probably just slightly too high for good purification, so the water
will not be ok for consumption.
As of March 8, 2011 the pond filter is flowing at 128 l/hr. which is .492 meters per hour.
As of April 16, 2011 the pond filter is flowing at 138 l/hr. which is .530 meters per hour.
Orignially, flow measurements were taken by recording the number of minutes required to fill a 12 litre
container.
Most recently (2010-12-19) we are using a 4 litre container, as it is more indiciative of instantaneous flow
volume when measuring the flow from a filter that is not fed by a steady flow of water. The 4 litre container
was tested against the 12 liter container using filter 2 which has a steady flow (its input is controled by a
float valve and pressurized water). The 4 litre container was found to result in flow measurement precision
and accuracy equal to the 12 litre container when the flow volume totals were averaged.
1 cubic meter = 1000 litres 1 litre = .001 cubic meter
We use flow rate per unit area per unit of time because we are interested in quantifying how fast the water
flows past a given level in a given area. Simply measuring liters per hour does not give the full story. For
example; 20 liters per hour from a 25 cm diameter container does not allow the same sand particle contact
time as 20 liters per hour from a 75 cm diameter container, and sand particle contact time is critical for
allowing maximum purification.
flow rate should be between .1 and .3 meters per hour
flow rate in meters per hour = [(liters per 1hr)÷1000]÷(area of sand bed surface in square meters)
HYDROCARBONS (TPH) IN ROOFWATER ARE SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED BY A SLOW SAND

FILTER SYSTEM
The most recent tests on fiter 1 show that a slow sand filter system of this design is capable of significantly
reducing TPH (Total Petroleum Hydrocarbon) contamination in the water that passes through it. In this case
the pre-filter system contamination is 2.9 milligrams per liter in the winter from water directly off of
the roof. When we are talking about clean water, this is an unacceptable level for use as a water source
without proper filtering. The slow sand filter system described here, which is in use with filter 1,
has been in operation for 2 years without changing or cleaning the filter media. This system
reduces these petroleum hydrocarbons from the roofing material (heavy oils), and (possibly)
from air pollution (Diesel), down to less than one tenth of a milligram per 1 liter of water each
(2 tenths of a miligram total); and this is when the filter is LEAST effective at 32 degrees F. This
exceeds the MTCA Method A cleanup level for TPH in ground water in Washington state 54 (page 4) by a factor
of 10. The tests also show that petroleum hydrocarbons are removed by the first flush diverter to a level of
less than 1 part per million (this exceeds the MTCA Method A requirment for groundwater which is 1mg/L).
Also we know from the tests that over 40 percent of the hydrocarbons are Diesel. We do not know exactly
how much hydrocarbon comes from local air pollution, which is significant in this area. The test for how
much is due to the roofing material and how much is due to air pollution will have to wait. Funding is
limited, and these tests are extremely expensive. The US EPA considers petroleum hydrocarbons (oil and
grease) one of 46 other "non-priority pollutants" 55. There are not any "official" specific regulations for levels
of TPH contamination in water set by the EPA. One of the reasons is that there are hundreds of compounds
in petroleum and it is extremely difficult to identify each one and the effects each has on living organisms .
We do know that there are between 5 and 10 million metric tons of oil entering the marine environment
every year (as of 1986), and that oil spills are lethal to most forms of life. In spite of that, the EPA has yet to
establish strict guidlines for TPH in water; and the studies they have done fail to show toxcity to humans.
However, concentrations of some individual elements in TPH pollution above .001 mg/L have been shown to
be harmful to aquatic life. 56 (p 203-206), 57 (p 220)
In addition to removing TPH contamination, Filter 1 removes coliform bacteria from 30,000 cfu per 100 ml
down to 10 cfu per 100 ml (log credit of 3.477).This exceeds the Washington state Class AA (extraordinary)
surface water requirements for the absence of coliform by a factor of 5, and this is when it is operating at
minimum efficiency in 32 degree (Fahrenheit) weather.
2011-01-13:The pond water filter test shows fecal coliform at less than 2 MPN per 100 ml.(less than 2
organisms per 100 ml of water. MPN means Most Probable Number) see this website for a good expanation
of "MPN" per 100ml Not bad considering birds, squirrels, and other wildlife use the pond daily.
Build a Cistern and store water for the summer!
or Use a slow sand filter to keep a pond or fountain clean
NEW A summary of roofwater harvesting procedures
2010-01-05 Tests to determine total petroleum hydrocarbon pollutants in roof water from a composition
roof are now available 2010-01-05: Total Petroleum Hydrocarbons (heavy oils and Diesel together)
are significantly reduced by the slow sand filter down to less than 2 parts per ten million. Read
the details below: See a YouTube video of the roof water filter here
2010-05-18 Tests on filter 2 and 3 to determine total organic carbon content and on filter 1 to determine
Snohomish county water quality standards compliance and total organic carbon content have gone in. The
results will be posted when received.
2010-06-15: The filters passed all the tests by comfortable margins. The TOC was a little on the high side,
but still acceptable, and was much better in filter 2 and 3 actually being reduced.
1. The first filter (filter 1 2007-08-13) configuration was put together with very casual attention to detail
and operated with only "human" power (10 gallons of water was added manually each day). This was done
deliberately to verify the validity of this question: Can a working biological sand filter be put together with
mostly recycled material at very low cost (under 25 dollars) using construction grade sand and average
skills? The answer - partially. The test results showed no fecal coliform bacteria from stagnant roof water
runoff but some coliform present. This water would be ok for everything except consumption and better
than water straight from a "rain barrell".
2. The second configuration of filter 1 2007-10-09 was the addition of graded sand (.15 mm effective
size) to the top layer of this filter and ungraded "fine" sand to the bottom layer. These were the only
changes to the filter detail. This filter removed 99.9 percent of all coliform bacteria (including ecoli and fecal
coliform) and removed more of the color from the roof water runoff - still not ok for drinking on a regular
basis but 99.9 percent better than the rain barrel water and much safer. With only close attention to the
detail of the size of the top layer of sand, the filter is now functional.
3.The third configuration of filter 1 2008-02-12 was the addition of a first flush diverter to the system.
This allowed for significant improvement of turbidity (as determined by visual inspection) and some
reduction of the bacteria (as determined by laboratory tests) before the water was put into the filter. Still the
same result - removal of 99.9 percent of all coliform bacteria.
4. The fourth configuration of filter 1 2008-02-12 involved the addtion of a small dc powered pump to
recirculate the water through the filter. This was an attempt to keep the biofilm alive without having to
manually add water each day. The dc pump is operated with a very small amount of power and can be run
by a solar panel. This worked. The filter still removed 99.9 percent of all coliform. As of 2008/12/01, this
configuration of Filter 1 has been in continuous operation for 14 months without disturbing the biolayer
(schmutzdecke). The flow rate is 3 liters per hour as of 2008/12/01. The reason for this long undisturbed
run is to determine if a slow sand filter becomes more efficent at removing contaminants as it ages. The
compromise would be in flow rate: significantly reduced flow rate to obtain significantly increased water
quality. This filter uses water from a composition roof as its source. This water should contain unacceptalble
amounts of hydrocarbons from the roof surface. The question is: will the aged slow sand filter remove
enough chemicals and pathogens to produce potable water? Update 12/18/2008: Two samples of water
were taken from this filtering system (the fourth configuration of filter 1) just before the freezing weather
hit: Filtered water and unfiltered water. The filtered water had been through the slow sand filter and the
unfiltered water was taken from the storage container that provides the raw water source for the filter.
(filter 1) The samples were put into two seperate containers which were identitical and were cleaned and
sterilized. These containers were put in a building where the temperature was 32 degrees F. The filtered
water froze and the unfiltered water did not freeze. It is a known scientific fact that water containing
dissolved substances freezes at a lower temperature than water with less dissolved substances. (this is why
salt is put on roads to "thaw" out the ice - the salt slowly lowers the freezing point of the ice and causes it to
"melt".) Since the filtered water froze and the unfiltered water did not freeze (the surrounding temperature
was not low enough to freeze the unfiltered water - it's freezing point was lower than the filtered water - for
some unknown reason), did the filter remove dissolved chemicals? A test will go in as soon as money, time
and weather permit.
5. Filter 2 2008-05-24 is 12 inches deeper than filter 1 with more graded sand (.15mm effective size),
and the water input is from a shallow well. This filter uses the dc pump modification and is fully functional -
it removes 99.9 percent of all coliform bacteria and the water has no roof chemicals in it. This is potable
water with one (albeit only slight) caveat: chemicals or pollutants present in the sand will be in the output
water. This condition can be checked with a thorough water quality test, if no poisons are found in the water
then it is potable and probably the best water around.
6.Filter 3 2008-10-09 is now in the process of becoming fully operational. This filter contains all NSF/ANSI
61 - AWWA 100 approved (the two standards for potable water) sand. This means we know there are not
poison chemicals in the sand. The top layer of sand is .25 mm effective size and the bottom layer is .35
effective size, however these sands have known uniformity coefficients of less than 2. The container and all
the pipe are also ok for potable water. A test will be done on the water in about 3 weeks. (3 weeks from
Sept 19 2008). As of Sept 23 the flow rate is 38 liters per hour (approximately 10 gallons per hour.)
2008/11/07 Update: An excessive amount of alge has formed on top of the sand in this filter. This has
drastically slowed down the flow rate - from 10 gallons per hour to 3.6 gallons per hour. It only took 4
weeks for this alge to build up. The cleaing process, however is very simple. This is a description of what
was done ( it is called "wet harrowing"):
I removed the top of the filter and GENTLY ran my hand over the top 1/4 to 1/2 cm of sand until all the
surface of the sand had been agitated. The water became cloudy with fragments of alge. This part of the
water was drained off. There was an almost immediate change in the flow rate, although I would
recommend plugging the output while the filter is being cleaned. I installed a drain pipe on the top of the
filter so water can be run through the input baffle pipes while the excess cloudy water is drained off. When
the water draining off became reasonalbly clear, the top cleaning drainpipe was closed and the filter was
allowed to resume operation. The flow rate measured 48 hours after this procedure was 28.965 litres per
hour (7.65 gallons per hour). The biolayer must have time to re-grow however, so the water will not be safe
for several weeks.
7.2009/02/17: Added a float valve to filter 3.
2008/11/10 Update: The test that went in 2008/10/29 has come back on filter 3. All coliform bacteria are
removed by the filter.
2008/12/18 Update: Due to extremely cold weather (for this location) all the filters have completely frozen
and stopped operation. The temperature has been below freezing since 2008/12/12
2008/12/27 Update: New information from the results of research regarding the viability of composition
roofing material for water collection are posted on the FAQ page.
2009/01/16 Update: The filters are now running again. The below freezing weather lasted until the first few
days in January 2009. In this location, temperatures were below 20 degrees for nearly one week, and
dropped to below 15 degrees F for several days. There was 16 inches of snow on the ground. All the filters
were inactive and frozen for 3 weeks. Pipes were cracked and brass valves were destroyed. All the pipes
were wrapped with insulation, but that did not help because the water inside the filters froze. In climates
where below freezing temperatures occur, these filters MUST be kept from freezing.
2009/01/26 Update: The filters have frozen again. There was an inch and a half of snow last night. Below
freezing weather finally froze all the filters as of today. Operation has been sporadic for the past nine days -
night temps have been near or below 32 deg F. .
2009/02/08 Update: Both filter 2 and filter 3 were damaged because of the cold weather. They have been
disassembled checked and put back together. This meant carefully removing all the sand and gravel from
each filter cleaning the container, replacing cracked drain pipes and putting the sand back in. Each filter
contains approximately 900 lbs of sand and gravel. This is VERY labor intensive work. The re-assembled
filters are now running. Filter 2 has been running since Feb 3 2009 and has a maximum flow rate of 72 litres
per hour (19 gallons) with 20 cm (7.5 inches) of water covering the surface of the sand. Filter 3 has a
maximum flow rate of 90 litres per hour (23 gallons) with 16.5 cm (6.5 in.) of water covering the surface of
the sand and has been restarted again on Feb 13 2009.
2009/03/11 Update: All the filters except filter 3 with the float valve have stopped operation, are frozen and
have been for 3 days ( this is the fourth day ). Record low temperatures here were below 19 degrees F. and
there has been a total of 5 inches of snow at this location in the past week.
2009/03/13 Update: All the filters are now back in operation.
2009/04/07 Update: Filter 3 flow rate: .75 litres per minute (45 litres per hour) with 16.5 cm water depth
over the top of the sand. (11.89 gallons per hour)
Filter 2 flow rate: .71 litres per minute (42 litres per hour) with 16.5 cm water depth over the top of the
sand. (11.25 gallons per hour)
2009/12/08 Update: All filters are frozen. The temperature has been below freezing for five days, and
below 18 degrees F the past two nights.
2009/12/22 Update: All filters are now in operation.
2009/12/27 Update Temperatures the past 4 days have been below freezing at night (25 degrees F),
however the water in the filters has not frozen.
2011/01/03 Update The pond filter output water went in for a Coliform test, and a turbidity test December
27th. We expect results back within the next two weeks.
Clean water is necessary for life, without it people cannot live. As the population of any given area increases
the demand for clean water increases. At the same time more water becomes unsuitable for human
consumption. Aquatic life, including many species of fish that support human life also suffer. To prevent
human suffering and conflict, clean water must be freely available to all people. In most areas of the world
today clean water is not freely available to anyone. In fact, in most parts of the world clean water is
avaialble only for those who can afford it. Polluted water is the only option for billions of people. This must
change. Clean water must be freely and unconditionally available to all people. If it is not, there will be dire
conseqences that will make our current warfare over petroleum resources seem insignificant. The solution to
water availability lies not in expensive corporate distribution systems, but in individual or small scale water
filtration systems, and the knowledge of how to build and safely maintain these environmentally sustainable
systems to provide uncontaminated water.
note 1: Water can be contaminated by many different things: inorganic chemicals, organic chemicals and
compounds; and many different types of viruses and bacterium and it is impossible to test for all of these
contaminants without access to expenisve elaborate testing facilities. This website and this study must not
be interpreted as a cure-all for the ills of water supply problems. The water that goes through these filters is
NOT being consumed, and they are NOT part of the plumbing in the dwelling unit nearby; and furthermore,
consuming water that goes through any filter is NOT RECOMMENDED without full knowledge of the source
of the water and EXACTLY what may or may not be in the source water; and a complete EPA approved test
on the water before and after any filtering system used to determine the safety of the water. That said, it
must be recognized that even public water supply systems are subject to contamination, 22 40,41 although
these systems are continuously monitored for harmful substances by highly qualified technicians. Biological
sand (slow sand) filtering is not used in most public water supply systems. Slow sand filters are very efficent
at purifying water (they actually remove pathogens) and they are the best and most efficent way of
removing cryptosporidum cysts from water without adding chemical poisons. Most public water supply
systems in the U.S. do NOT use slow sand filters, they use Chorine or Ozone combined with highly complex
mechanical filtration systems to remove particulate matter and inactivate and / or remove pathogens.
However, chlorine and Ozone react with organic matter in water and produce cancer causing substances:
trihalomethanes (from chlorine), halacetic acid (also known as Acetic acid, dichloro; bichloracetic acid; DCA;
dichlorethanoic acid; 2,2-dichloroacetic acid; dichloroethanoic acid; kyselina dichloroctova or Urner's liquid)
(also from chlorine) 51 and formaldehyde and ketones (from ozone)23, 24 that are still in the water (at low
concentrations) when it arrives at the consumer's plumbing and are VERY harmful if consumed over long
periods of time even at low concentrations. Bromide (present in ground water) and chlorine added to kill
bacteria plus sunlight equal bromate - a cancer causing chemical. This situation occured in 2007 in Los
Angeles. The Sliver Lake and Elysian Resovoirs had to be drained, refilled and black plastic balls put on top
of the water to keep sunlight out.42
note 2 Why is this "good" news? I wasn't going to get political here, but this is so important and teaching
is, after all, a political act (Paulo Freire) . . . . Four reasons stand out:
One; Enough water for survival should be free for everyone. It is as necessaary for life as air - that one is
sort of a no brainer.
Two; If enough people in the city catch rainwater in rain barrels, the load on the storm drains is reduced
considerably - and there is less chance of the drains overflowing and spreading contaminated water into the
environment before it is treated. This is good news for everyone, as less pollution is washed into streams,
rivers, lakes, and oceans during a significant rain event.
Three; In the summer, water can then be conserved by using the stored water for flower gardens, lawns,
and if filtered by a slow sand filter, vegetable gardens; thereby significantly reducing the load on the public
water supply.
Four (and probably the most important); It appears as though government is finally getting a clue. . .
hopefully I'm not wrong about this. Good job Wa. state gov., thank you! Tax dollars well spent this time!
And, speaking of political stuff, who is funding this site, and why is it on the internet? There are no
multinational corporations, environmental groups, universities, or political groups involved in the funding of
this site. The funding is private, unconditional, and limited to maintaining the domain name and hosting,
paying for the epa certified tests; and purchasing parts used to build the filters. If any outside funding, or
donations are offered, the conditions will not change - the funding must be unconditional. The website
coding, physical work and research are done without any monetary compensation. Every effort is made to
assure that unbiased results based on factual evidence and professional testing are presented. Hazards are
noted. No guarentees are offered or implied. The creation, maintenance, and content of this site have no
connection to any political group. Additionally, this website has no connection whatsoever to any religious
group. This information is here because knowledge of how to obtain clean water, which is necessary for life,
should be available to all persons.
IMPORTANT: Most racoons carry a type of parasitic roundworm called Baylisascaris procyonis 43, 44, 45, 46, that
causes very serious illness in people. If there are racoons in your area be aware that your yard may be
contaminated. Children are highly at risk. DO NOT use water from a rain barrel, pond or creek unless you
are absolutely certain that it is not contaminated. Read the literature cited from the link above (43, 44, ,45)
on this issue completely. You have been warned.
Note: In the past seven or eight months websites describing biological sand filters / slow sand filters have
been appearing with instructions recommending BACKWASHING a biological sand filter when the flow rate
slows down. Forcefully backwashing a slow sand filter, particularly a small slow sand filter with layers of
different sizes of sand, will destroy it. The flow rate is slowed by a buildup of material on the TOP FEW
CENTIMETERS of sand. Simply gently agitating this layer and DRAINING OFF the cloudy water is all that
needs to be done. These well meaning people have apparently confused rapid sand filtration with biological
sand filtration. There are small scale biological sand filters that have been carefully engineered to allow
reverse flow of water to clean the filter, but the sand bed is not "fluidized" as it is in the process of
"backwashing". 52
Illustrations of how water color can be improved by a slow sand filter and a first flush diverter
The filter that this water has passed through has been in operation for 1 year (as of 2008-12-01) without
deliberately disturbing the biolayer (schmutzdecke) for cleaning purposes, with the exception of disruption
from freezing in December 2008 and January 2009. During the sub-freezing temps, which lasted through
December and January, the biolayer was compeletly frozen. This filter also has a charcoal filter hooked to the
output.
These pictures are of water that is run through the filter on an ongoing basis during the rainy season
(fall, winter, spring). Simply dumping a bucket of cloudy water into a filter and watching clear water come
out is not the same thing. It takes at least several hours for the water that goes in to a well designed slow
sand filter to get filtered and show up at the output. The first flush diverter removes concentrated chemical
pollutants from the water so the slow sand filter can work on the biological contamination. See the larger
versions of these images below.
back to FAQ page
The picture above is water from a The picture above is water from The picture above is water from a
composition roof that has NOT a composition roof that has composition roof that has been
been through a first flush been through a first flush through a first flush diverter
diverter. The bucket is a 5 gallon diverter. The bucket is a 5 gallon and a slow sand filter. The
bucket. bucket. bucket is a 5 gallon bucket.
The picture above (picture zero - roof water) is water from a composition roof that has NOT been through
a first flush diverter. The bucket is a 5 gallon bucket.
The picture above (picture one - pre-filter water) is water from a composition roof that has been through a
first flush diverter. The bucket is a 5 gallon bucket.
This is water from the same composition roof as the pre-filter water in picture one, that has been through
the same first flush diverter mentioned in the picture one caption after it has been through a small slow sand
water filter.The bucket is the same 5 gallon bucket as in picture one.
Illustrations of how water clarity can be improved by a slow sand filter
What are these pictures?

In pictures A and B We are looking to see if the slow sand filters being tested become more efficent over
extended periods of time, and if there is any improvement between filtered and unfiltered water. Pictures 1a
and 1b are visual evidence that this slow sand filter is still operating after 30 months without being cleaned.
Please note this is NOT a "biosand" filter, although it is very similar. This test does NOT mean that any other
filter can go this long without being cleaned. This test DOES NOT show pathogens in the water. Water can
be very clear and still contain harmful bacteria. Because the water being filtered here by the slow sand filter
has a very low turbidity (but still contains pathogens before filtering) we are using a small low power red
laser beam to check water clarity. The laser passes through the water and a photo is taken of the light
reflecting from particles in the water, producing what looks like a red "line".
A reliable epa approved commercial 10 stage water filter is used as a basis for comparison as shown in
pictures C and D. Water before it passes through this 10 stage filter is known to have more particles in it
than it does after it has passed through the filter. The pictures show a difference; and thus we know this is a
reliable method of checking the quality of water with respect to particulate matter content.
It is necessary to let the bubbles in the water disperse before checking, or the light will be reflected from
bubbles and particulate matter. The intensity of the color of the line is directly proportional to the
concentration of particles in the water - in other words more particulate matter in the water will produce a
more intense colored line and will indicate poorer water quality. This is a qualitative test - not quantitative.
This is NOT a scientific "turbidity test" and no "numbers" are produced. This test demonstrates
improvements in clarity resulting from more efficient removal of particulate matter from water by the ( slow
sand ) filters being tested.
Picture A "Washed" roof water from storage tank Picture B This is water filtered by a slow sand filter
before running through Filter 1. (Filter 1) after it has been in continuous operation for
12 months
it has a low flow rate but cleans the water
exceptionally well.
Picture 1 A "Washed" roof water from storage tank Picture 1 B This is water filtered by a slow sand
before running through Filter 1. 2010-11-13 filter (Filter 1) after it has been in continuous
operation for 30 months (2010-11-13)
Picture C Well water before filtration. Picture D This is the water from the well that is
referred to in the picture at the left after it has been
filtered by a 10 stage carbon filter.
For the above images originals:
All the pictures, including the ones taken
2010:11:13,
were taken with the same settings, the same
containers,
the same laser, and the same camera.
Bottled water This water has a turbidity of .35 NTU Unfiltered shallow well water This water has a
(the best of 4 samples was chosen for the website). turbidity of .22 NTU
Unfiltered pond water This water has an turbidity Filtered roof water This is the water from filter 1
of 1.9 NTU. It is unfiltered water from a pond filled by that has been stored for a year in the storage tank.
rain water. The turbidity is .32 NTU (better than bottled water).
Now, the question is why are the darker red lines testing with lower turbidity (better quality) in some cases?
Most likely; air bubbles. And note that there is a significant difference between the 1.9 NTU and those that
are less than .5 NTU. See the faq page for an explanation of NTU.
Picture E Can you tell by looking which of these samples is unfiltered well water, filtered well water,
unfiltered roof water, or filtered roof water? The water is so clear that imperfections in the glass will influence
your judgement. It is much easier using the red laser.
It is important to note that even though water is clear, it still can contain bacteria that will make a person
very sick.
A (is 10 stage carbon) filtered well water (the clearest);

B is unfiltered well water;
C is unfiltered roof water;
D is slow sand filtered roof water
Frequently asked questions regarding slow sand filters (note 1) (note 2-F)
1. What is a slow sand filter?

2. How does a slow sand filter work?
3. Are slow sand filters safe?
4. What are the disadvantages of a small slow sand filter?
5. What are the advantages of a small slow sand filter?
6. How do I keep air pockets from forming when buillding a small slow sand filter?
7. How do I tell if the water is too muddy or silty to be filtered by a slow sand filter?
8. What is an NTU?
9. How much do small slow sand filters cost?
10. What kind of sand and gravel do slow sand filters use?
11. What size of sand and gravel do slow sand filters use?
12. How deep does the sand have to be in a slow sand filter?
13. What is "Uniformity coefficient"?
14. What does "log credit" mean in reference to pathogen removal in a slow sand filter?
15. Where can I find more information about slow sand filters?
16. Can roof water be made potable (suitable for people to drink) by a slow sand filter?
17. What is a first flush diverter?
18. Can I purify water from a creek, stream or pond using a slow sand filter?
19. What is "wet harrowing"?
20. Will a slow sand filter remove industrial pollution?
21. What is the difference between a biosand filter and a slow sand filter?
22. Can I purify roof water with a slow sand filter?
23. Where can I get plans for a slow sand filter?
24. Can I safely water my vegetable garden with roof water that has been purified by a slow
sand filter?
25. Can I use a slow sand filter to purify tap water?
26. I have seen videos of slow sand filters in operation that show very dirty water being poured
in and clean looking water flowing out. Is this realistic?
27. How is a slow sand filter "cleaned"?
28. What is the difference between rapid sand filtration and slow sand filtration?
29. What is COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand)?
30. Will a slow sand filter remove poisons in water from toxic algae blooms?
31. How fast does water move through a slow sand filter?
32. Does a slow sand filter work at near freezing temperatures?
Important note: The filters described on this website are not guarenteed to produce potable
water.
This information is provided free without any assurance of accuracy. Use this information at
your own risk.
The author reserves the right to change any of this information at any time without notice
You have been advised.
1. What is a slow sand filter?

A slow sand filter is sometimes referred to as a "Biosand" filter, or a biological sand filter. All three of these
names refer to a water filter that works using biological action in sand without adding any chemicals to the
water. These filters are good examples of sustainable technology. They can operate without the use of
electricty or petroleum based fuel and can be made from mostly recycled materials. A slow sand filter
consists of a container with a system of pipes with holes drilled in them covered by about 6 inches of gravel,
in turn covered by 3 feet of sand. Water is allowed to flow over the top of the sand and flow slowly down
(because of the pull of gravity) through the sand and gravel to the pipes on the bottom. The water then
flows back up (due to hydraulic pressure) through one output pipe to the level of the input water. After
about 3 or 4 weeks a biological layer forms on the sand that traps and destroys harmful bacteria and
viruses. back to top
2. How does a slow sand filter work?

When a slow sand filter is first put into operation or after it is "cleaned", a living "community" of aquatic
aerobic, predatory microscopic organisms grow in the top 5 to 10 cm of wet sand and form what is called a
"Schmutzdecke" or "biolayer" made of exocelluar polymers (complex proteins and carbohydrates) and living
organisms consisting of diatoms, algae, bacteria, and zooplankton. This sand and biolayer must always be
submerged under oxygen rich water (the filter must ALWAYS have water in it up to and covering all of the
sand), and it is very effective at mechanically filtering very small particles out of the water flowing through
it. Also, the living organisms in the biolayer literally "eat" pathogens in the water that get caught in the
biolayer from a process know as "biological flocclation" (they stick to the biofilm). Some filtering also occurs
because of the physical action of the sand below the biolayer. And additionally, the organisms in the biolayer
produce substances that are toxic to pathogenic viruses and bacteria found in the water flowing through the
filter. 58 (270-273; 424-432), 59, 60 Water must not flow through the filter faster than the biological action occurs in the
Schmutzdecke. The organisms in the biolayer are also present at lower levels in the filter sand but they are
not as numerous and don't form a biofilm. In small versions of slow sand filters the drainpipes at the bottom
connect to a (usually pvc) pipe that runs out and up to an outlet several inches above the top of the sand.
This way water drains slowly and never leaves the surface of the sand exposed to open air (this will kill the
biolayer very quickly). The action of water seeking its own level is a key part of the filtering operation as it
helps to regulate the speed and pressure at which the water passes through the sand. Although slow sand
filters have been in operation since the early 1800's and have been studied extensively by modern scientists,
the complete extent of the biological activity enabling their operation is not fully understood yet; however
extensive tests have shown that slow sand filters remove viruses, bacteria, and chemicals as well as, and in
some cases better than, modern complex filtering systems (slow sand filters are the most effective way to
remove "Beaver fever organisms" from water). back to top
3. Are slow sand filters safe?61 (339-340; 345-346)

They can be quite safe but should be used with caution and sufficient knowledge of their operation. The
effectiveness of a slow sand filter depends on the conditions in which they operate; and on the degree of
pollution in the water to be filtered. Water must be allowed to run through them for at least 3 weeks before
any is consumed. All parts of the filter must be kept clean - contamination can come from anywhere outside
the filter. Water must be kept over the sand always, and the filter must be allowed to run again for 3 weeks
after cleaning before consuming any water from them unless "wet harrowing" is used. Slow sand filters are
able to provide very good safe water free from biological pathogens. This is a well established, although not
well known, fact. Beaver fever (cryptosporidium) cysts, viruses, and coliform bacteria can all be removed
from water by slow sand filters at rates often exceeding 99 percent 13 30. It is common knowledge that
because of world wide industrialization and lack of attention to the problems of pollution, both "tap" water
and rainwater can contain varying amounts of harmful substances, depending on the water treatment
process and geographical location. Biological sand filters can remove some harmful substances from water,
and most certainly improve the quality of water that is run through them in all respects, but the exact nature
of their ability to remove all industrial pollution from water has not been well established. However, ability of
carbon filters to remove chemicals from water has been well established; and the addition of a high quality
carbon filter to the output of a biological sand filter would be a good idea. Do not consume water from a DIY
(do it yourself) slow sand filter unless the water has been tested and shown to be of acceptable biological
and chemical quality; and it is monitored and tested regularly by someone who understands its operation.
Also a uv filter on the output after the carbon filter should be used. back to top
4. What are the disadvantages of a small slow sand filter?

They do not remove 100 percent of the color or odor from water.
They require reatively non-turbid water to function properly.
They cannot function if they are frozen.
Water must be added regularly and the sand must stay covered by water continuously.
During construction care must be taken to prevent air pockets from forming in the sand - this will foul the
filter and require removing the sand and removing all anaerobic bacteria and odors.
Industrial pollution is only partially removed from water by these filters.
These filters must be allowed to "ripen" (have water flow through them for at least 3 weeks) before they will
purify water.
They are VERY heavy (1000 pounds plus) and much thought must go into where they will be located - it is
almost impossible to move them once they are set up. back to top
5. What are the advantages of a small slow sand filter?

They are the best way to remove beaver fever bacteria from water.
They can remove over 99 percent of harmful bacteria from water.
They can remove from 91 to 99.999 percent of viruses from water. 30
They improve water clarity.
They do not require the addition of chemicals to function.
They can be designed to function using only the power of gravity.
They can last for many years with only occasionally adding more sand to the top layer.
They are inexpensive.
They do not pollute.
They are sustainable technology.
They do not produce harmful byproducts as do chlorine and ozone purification processes.
Maintenance is simple and easily understood.
Their construction is easily understood.
They can be built from locally available materials.
They can operate in remote areas where no electrical power or petroleum energy is available.
They empower the individual.
The theory of operation is easily understood. back to top
6. How do I keep air pockets from forming when buillding a small slow sand filter?
Fill the container with water FIRST - then add the gravel and sand slowly waiting for all the bubbles to stop
before putting in more sand. Have all the drain pipe and the ouput (outlet) pipe installed and tested to be
sure it works and does not leak. Your last step should be adding the gravel and sand. back to top
7. How do I tell if the water is too muddy or silty to be filtered by a slow sand filter?
This is not an easy question to answer because there are some variables: How long has the filter has been
running? How long will cloudy water be used in the filter? What is the turbidity level in NTU's (Nephelometric
Turbidity Units) of the water, and does it change? Generally, if you can't see through a drinking glass of the
water well enough to read your name printed 1 cm high on a white note card it is too silty to use in a slow
sand filter. Water that is almost clear will probably work. Muddy water - that is water that is opaque - will
not work in a slow sand filter. The accepted maximum turbidity level in NTU's for continuous operation is 20
- this would be water in a glass that looks slightly cloudy - almost clear. Less than 5 NTU's of turbidity
cannot be noticed, and 200 NTU's of turbidity is the maximum that can be tolerated by a slow sand filter -
this would be water that looks like a glass of non-filtered fresh squeezed lemon juice (without the seeds).
The ideal turbidity would be less than 10.12
A good example of what turbidity levels look like can be found here. back to top
8. What is an NTU?
This is a measurement of the ability of light to pass through water. A detailed explanation is beyond the
scope of this FAQ, but a good explanation of NTU's and how to calculate them can be found here. back to
top
9. How much do small slow sand filters cost?

Very little or nothing. A small slow sand filter can be built for under 100 dollars. back to top
10. What kind of sand and gravel do slow sand filters use?
It is best to use sand and gravel that is NSF/ANSI 61 or AWWA 100 approved. If this is not available, know
EXACLTY where the sand and gravel come from and EXACTLY what is in it - and what is NOT in it. Be
certain there are no industrial chemicals in the sand and /or gravel. Things like lead, mercury, asbestos,
zinc, petroleum derivitives, insecticides, pesticides, or storm runoff residue from road surfaces may be in
sand, or on gravel. Be certain the sand is washed clean of any organic material, clay, mud, or slit. The sand
should be washed until the water draining from it is clear. Play sand that has been sterilized can be
purchased at most home improvement stores. It will work if the sand is fairly uniform in size. Builder's sand
may work, but if the grains are too coarse and the size is not uniform (see faq 11) it may not work
satisfactorily; also be certain chemicals have not been added if builder's sand is used. The following website
has listings of NSF certified sand suppliers and processing facilities:
http://www.nsf.org/Certified/Common/Company.asp?Standard=061 Two of the companies listed at this
nsf.org site have supplied the sand used in the filters described in the study described on this website They
are: MANUFACTURERS MINERAL COMPANY in Washington state and Cemex in Californa. They are
wholesale. You will need to find a hardware store, or building supplier near you to order products from
them. back to top
11. What size of sand and gravel do slow sand filters use?
The most important information to know is that coarse sand does not filter as well as fine sand; and, fine
sand offers more resistance to the flow of water than coarse sand. Between .35 mm and .15 mm effective
size with a uniformity coefficient of less than 2 is the desired (and most commonly used) range of sand
sizes. 13 however all the sand in a layer should be the same effective size. The smaller effective size should
be in the top 30 or 40 cm layer of sand. The gravel on the bottom should be large enough to not pass
through the holes in the drain pipes and small enough to prevent sand from seeping into them. The drain
pipes should be covered by at least 6 inches of gravel. Generally, the smaller the effective size of the sand
used the better. If the effective size is too small however, water will not flow through the filter fast enough.
If the effective size is too large the biolayer will not form effectively and the filter will not purify water. back
to top
12. How deep does the sand have to be in a slow sand filter?
The minimum depth of sand is 30 inches and some municipal filters are 48 inches or deeper. If the sand is
coarse (.35 mm effective size or larger) increase the depth accordingly. There is a balance to be maintained.
Most slow sand filters have layers of sand with the smaller effective size on the top 30 or 40 cm layer. back
to top
13. What is "Uniformity coefficient"?

The uniformity coefficient of sand is defined as a ratio: the size at which 60 percent (by weight) of a sand
sample passes through a sieve (in other words 60 percent of the sand is finer than a given size) divided by
the size at which 10 percent of the same sample (by weight) passes through a sieve (10 percent is finer
than a given size). A UC of 1 indicates all the particles are the same size. As the number goes up the size
differentiation becomes greater and the quality of the sand becomes less desirable for use in a slow sand
filter. back to top
14. What does "log credit" mean in reference to pathogen removal in a slow sand filter?
This term is somewhat ambiguous, because what we really want is removal not necessarily just a "credit" for
removal - so "log reduction" would be a better way to speak of removing pathogens from water. In some
cases, "Log credit" may be used to refer to the inactivation of pathogens. It is important to note that slow
sand filters remove pathogens and chlorine or ozone treatment only kills them they are still in the water -
they are just not alive. "Log credit" or "log reduction" means: The log 10 (the log relative to base 10) of the
number of organisms per unit volume before filtering minus the log 10 of the number of organisms per unit
volume after filtering. For example 1000 beaver fever cysts before filtering per 100 ml of water as compared
to 1 beaver fever cyst per 100 ml of water after filtering is the log 10 of 1000 minus the log10 of 1 or 3 - 0 or
3. A very good filter. The corresponding percentage would be 999/1000 or 99.9 percent removal. back to
top
15. Where can I find more information about slow sand filters?
There is a website here that has much more info about these filters. Also, the "Literature Cited" link on the
upper left side of this page has links to other sites and some scientific studies on biological sand filters. back
to top
16. Can roof water be made potable (suitable for people to drink) by a slow sand
filter? 4,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21
Under some conditions - possibly - but EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION. DO NOT DRINK OR OTHERWISE
CONSUME WATER FROM ANY OF THE FILTER DESIGNS OR SOURCES MENTIONED ON THIS WEBSITE.
ANYTHING CAN BE IN WATER AND EVERY SITUATION IS DIFFERENT. YOUR LOCAL HEALTH DEPARTMENT
IS THE FINAL AUTHORITY ON POTABLE WATER. If there are racoons present, keep in mind that they carry
roundworms (Baylisascaris procyonis) that produce millions of tiny eggs which are deadly if ingested by
humans.43, 44, 45 Although infection is rare, it has happened and there is no cure. The eggs are 50 microns in
size, so most commercial water filters will remove them easily. A properly operating slow sand filter should
be able to remove them. The best action is to consider water from a roof off limits until the entire area is
decontaminated and the racoons are permanently removed from the area.
Before doing anything more with water from a roof surface, have the surface material tested for asbestos.
Roofing applied before 1980 may have asbestos embeded in it. Do not drink or even use water taken from
this type of roof - asbestos is a known cancer causing material. If the roofing has asbestos in it DO NOT USE
THE RUNOFF FROM IT FOR ANYTHING, and note there is likely asbestos in the soil around the house if
there are any areas of damage on the roof. Composition roofing installed by reputable contractors after
1980 will probalbly not contain asbestos, as it was banned from use after 1980 in the U.S. .
Do not drink water taken from cedar shake roofs under any circumstances - there are naturally occurring
tannins in cedar which can be harmful18. In addition to tannins, manufactured cedar shakes contain added
wood preservatives, (some of which contain arsenic, copper, and other powerful poisons) that are extremely
harmful19,20,21,31. Also any roof surface that has lead, copper, tin, or zinc is not suitable for potable water,
although the slow sand filter will remove some of these chemical contaminants and nearly all of the
biological contaminants from the water.
Use a first flush diverter (see FAQ 17 below).
Use a high quality 10 stage carbon filter at the point of use.

Have an EPA certified laboratory test the water for zinc, lead, copper, chromium, arsenic, asbestos, and tin.
Metal roofing with the brand name "Galvalume" or "Zincalume" is used in many areas to provide chemical
free water for harvesting and consumption. These metals are alloys covered by non-toxic baked on enamel
finishes. If they are not coated or if they are allowed to rust, they can contribute toxic metal compounds to
runoff water.31. Also there is a roof coating available called CIMtm Industrial Membrane that is NSF 61
certified available from SEALPRO, Inc.; 150 Dow Street, Manchester, NH 03101 1-800-732-5776 .
New information as of 2010/01/05: Some composition and tar roofing (also referred to as asphalt roofing)
may be ok for water harvesting. There are, however, a number of caveats that must be considered:
First, total Petroleum hydrocarbons (TPH) were found to be present at 2.9 mg/L of water, in the winter at
temperatures of 32 degrees F in tests on water from the roof used in the study on this website. The slow
sand filter (filter 1) in the study on this website removes those petroleum hydrocarbons from roof water
down to less than one part per ten million - an amount probably harmless to healthy individuals. The TPH
working group has done extensive research on Total Petroleum Hydrocarbons. The reference listed here has
extensive information on this subject. Mentioned in this study is as much as 7 mg/L as toxic and as little as .
01 mg/L as toxic in specific types of hydrocarbons. 53 (pp 30,34,45,66,69) Since the slow sand filter takes the total to
below the .01 mg/L, we can probalby safely use the water in this case. It must be noted, however that this
test was done in the winter months when there is likely to be much less hydrocarbon pollution present than
there would be in the summer.
Secondly, asphalt is soluble in water above 20 degrees centigrade (68 degrees F), so if your roof surface is
above 68 degrees F when water is collected from it, err on the side of caution and assume the water
collected at this temperature contains hydrocarbons from the roofing material. Below 20 degrees centigrade
there will not likely be enough dissolved hydrocarbon compounds to be of concern (asphalt has been used to
seal reservoirs used for drinking water 17 (p.518)).
Additionally, some composition roofing has chemicals embedded in it, and roofing manufactured before 1980
may contain asbestos. Chemicals, such as zinc or copper are there to prevent the growth of moss. This type
of roofing will not be suitable for any kind of water collection and should be removed before it poisons the
entire yard. If there is moss growing on your roof, that is a good sign. If your roofing was manufactured
after 1980 it probably does not contain asbestos.
Furthermore, in many areas the dust from the air pollution may pose more of a threat than the chemicals
from the roofing material - as the sun heats up the roof, hydrocarbons become soluble in water and mix
with the dust to form (possibly) even more toxic pollutants.
Another consideration is the coloring in the aggregate covering composition roofing. It can contain heavy
metals (which produce the color) such as chromium, copper, or lead. Avoid green, or white colors. Brown
colored roofing usually has iron which may not be as harmful as other metals.
Also, the majority of water soluable pollutants in the runoff from most composition roofing come from the
pieces of roofing that break loose due to normal aging. These pieces are usually washed off the roof during
a moderate rainfall event; however they may remain in the gutter, so they must be removed before using
any of the water that runs through the gutter. 15,16,17
Another issue that must be considered is the diversity of complex hydrocarbons, sulfur compounds, and
nitrogen compounds present in asphalt. The exact nature of the combination of these compounds depends
on the source of the asphalt; so different roofing manufacturers' products will not contain the same Asphalt
contaminants.17 (p. 518) The study quoted on this website on roofing materials pertains only to most roofing
currently sold on the west coast of the U.S. .
A first flush diverter with a very large disgard amount such as 25 or 30 gallons per downspout (assuming at
least 4 downspouts) per rain event on a 2000 square foot roof would be advisable. After the high volume
disgard first flush diverter is installed, at the very least, have the water tested for Polycyclic Aromatic
Hydrocarbons, (PAH - Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons) and / or Hydrocarbons (TPH - Total Petroleum
Hydrocarbons) (along with the standard EPA water quality tests which should include tests for copper, lead,
zinc, iron, phosphates, nitrates, nitrogen compounds, and chemical oxygen demand) and do not use water
from a composition, tar or asphalt roof if the temperature of the roof is above 68 degrees F. 4,14,15,16,17,31 For
example; during the summer months the water from the roof in this study is of very poor quality.
However, water collected during the rainy season in the fall, winter and spring is of very high quality . back
to top
17. What is a first flush diverter?

This is an absolutley necessary part of a roofwater harvesting system and will keep concentrated toxic
chemicals out of the slow sand filter. A first flush diverter (sometimes called a "roof washer") is a device that
manages the flow of rainwater into a harvesting system. It diverts the first flow of runoff from a roof, after a
dry spell, away from a roof water harvesting system. There are many different designs, but the idea is the
same - prevent water that contains dissolved pollutants such as: dust, vehicle exaust particles, animal
droppings, and particulate matter due to poor air quality from entering the water storage system. The runoff
from the first rain after several months of a dry spell will contain concentrated highly toxic materials
including harmful bacteria. A diverter usually has a "temporary storage chamber" that fills with the most
polluted water and then seals itself off to allow the fresh rainwater to flow into the storage system while
slowly emptying this "temporary storage chamber" so it will be ready for the next rain event. back to top
18. Can I purify water from a creek, stream or pond using a slow sand filter?
Possibly, but again use extreme CAUTION: Know the exact origin and path of the water in the creek or pond
and always ALWAYS have the water tested pre-filter and post-filter, before consuming any. Also, be aware
that many racoons carry roundworms (Baylisascaris procyonis) that produce millions of tiny eggs which are
deadly if ingested by humans.43, 44, 45 (see faq 16) These eggs can survive for years in harsh environments.
Although infection is rare, it has happened and there is no cure. The eggs are approximately 50 microns in
size, so most commercial water filters will remove them easily. A properly operating slow sand filter should
be able to remove them. Also, be aware that urban and suburban areas have chemical pollutants, too
numerous to mention here, that flow into creeks and ponds; and many of these substances can be very
harmful. If you are in a rural setting and you are sure that the creek or pond is not anywhere near
populated areas your worst problem will probably be biological contamination, and the slow sand filter will
be able to purify the water if the turbidity level is not too high. A slow sand filter can remove 99.9 percent of
harmful organisms from water; however algae will quickly impede the flow of water through a slow sand
filter. A slow sand filter will not remove all poisons produced by toxic algae; and high concentrations of
chemical contamination cannot be completely removed by a slow sand filter. back to top
19. What is "wet harrowing"?

This is one way to "clean" a slow sand filter. The surface of the sand is gently agitated to stir up the
biolayer. The cloudy water is drained off and the filter is then allowed to run for several days to re-establish
the biolayer. back to top
20. Will a slow sand filter remove industrial pollution?

A slow sand filter will remove at least half and up to 90 percent of some chemical pollution at levels up to
100 times greater than recommended maximum allowable levels 12. A properly functioning slow sand filter is
capable of remvoing Diesel contaminants present in water from less than 1 mg/L down to less than .07
mg/L, and heavy oil contaminants from less than 1 mg/L down to less than .095 mg/L. Tests for the
presence of chemical pollutants are very expensive. back to top
21. What is the difference between a biosand filter and a slow sand filter?
Nomenclature - mainly. The name "Biosand Filter" refers to an invention by Dr. David Manz. Typically a
biosand filter is smaller than a slow sand filter and may operate intermittantly. A slow sand filter usually
operates continuously and can be quite large. Slow sand filters are typically used in municipal water supply
systems, whereas biosand filters are usually for individual use. The biological action is similar in both types
of filters. A slow sand filter can be large supplying thousands of gallons per day, or small supplying 5 or 6
gallons per day. back to top
22. Can I purify roof water with a slow sand filter?

A slow sand filter can purify water harvested from a roof, but the water should not be consumed unless the
roof is made of metal with a non-toxic baked on enamel finish; and a first flush diverter is used. In some
cases a composition roof may be able to provide water suitalble for comsumption - see faq 16. back to top
23. Where can I get plans for a slow sand filter?

Search on the internet under "slow sand water filter" or "Biosand Water filter" or look at the drawing on this
website. Also read about their theory of operation - it is not that complicated and does not take a college
degree to understand how to put one together and operate it successfully. back to top
24. Can I safely water my vegetable garden with roof water that has been purified by a slow
sand filter?
Probably, depending on what type of roof you have (read faq number 16 above) and what wildlife is present
in your area. As for chemicals that leach from a roof surface, the key concept here is "bioaccumulation".
Plants that are regrown each year from seed won't accumulate much poison, unless you have an unusually
polluted environment. Fruit trees or perennials like berries may accumulate poisons over time. Use a first
flush diverter and have a metal roof with a non-toxic coating to get the purest water. Any other type of roof
(excluding possibly some types of tile roofs) will add toxins in proportion to their age and manufacturing. It
is also important to note that many carcinogens can be present in extremely small concentrations and only a
lab can detect them - and as they build up over time (months or years) in tissue they become quite toxic.
The toxins in roofing are varied and expensive to identify. There are coatings available that will vastly
improve the quality of water taken from a roof (see number FAQ 16 above). Also, if you have a "carport" or
seperate garage, just install suitlable metal roofing on that building and your filtered water will be ok to
water a garden. If you intend to have a new roof put on your house have a non-toxic metal roof installed -
they will last 50 years or longer, stand up way better in a storm than composition or cedar shakes, will not
poison your yard, will give you non-toxic rain water, can be recycled, they are fireproof, and can be installed
over old composition roofing. From a biological standpoint, more caution is advised. Racoons carry parasites
(Baylisascaris procyonis - sometimes called racoon roundworms) that are usually harmless to the racoons.
These roundworms each produce millions of eggs which can persist in the environment for years and can be
deadly to humans. Rooftops are often contaminated by these parasites' eggs if racoons are present. Water
may pick up these microscopic eggs and deposit them in rainbarrels. Ingestion of the eggs of Baylisascaris
procyonis will cause severe illness and there is no cure. Young children are particularly susceptable.
Although this problem is rare, the consequences warrant extreme caution. If you have ANY racoons
anywhere near your roof you must assume your roof is contaminated. This study has not tested for the
removal of these parasites' eggs and although the eggs are 50 microns in diameter, 45 a slow sand filter may
not remove them unless it is operating correctly. Watering a vegetable garden with unfiltered water from a
rainbarrel that is contaminated with the eggs may result in infection, severe disability or fatality. DO NOT
WATER VEGETABLES WITH UNFILTERED OR UNTREATED WATER STRAIGHT FROM A RAIN BARREL - NO
MATTER WHAT KIND OF ROOF YOU HAVE. 43, 44, 46 back to top
25. Can I use a slow sand filter to purify tap water?

Maybe. It will depend on how much bacteria is in the tap water, and how much chlorine is present in the tap
water. If your water comes from a public water supply system, it is unlikely that there will be enough living
"good" organisms to start a biological layer in a sand filter ( that is assuming your public water supply is
completely filtered and purified ). There must be living microbes in the water to form the biological layer.
The physical action of the sand will do some filtering, but a 10 stage carbon filter will be much better at
removing harmful chemicals from your tap water. If, however, there are even a small number of living
microbes in your tap water, it is likely that a functional bioligical layer will eventually form; but it may take
several months for the layer to mature. If you are on a non-public water system ( a private well ) or you get
your water from an open stream or irrigation ditch, then a slow sand filter will probably work. back to top
26. I have seen videos of slow sand filters in operation that show very dirty water being poured
in and clean looking water flowing out. Is this realistic?
Yes, but with several caveats. Too much turbid water in will clog the fiter very quickly. A slow sand filter
gets better at filtering as the biofilm (schmutzdecke) matures and will do a very good job of filtering out
more than just pathogens , however at the expense of flow rate. Water typically takes some time
(depending on the size of the filter) to pass through a slow sand filter. The water that is poured in is not the
same water that immediately flows out. It can take anywhere from minutes (inefficient purification) to hours
(much more efficent purification) for water to flow completely through a slow sand filter. Also a small
charcoal filter on the output will help eliminate odors and colors from the output water. back to top
27. How is a slow sand filter "cleaned"?

Cleaning methods include wet harrowing, (described above in faq 19) or physically removing the top 2 or 3
centimeters of sand (usually done on larger filters with the water level significantly reduced). DO NOT
FORCEFULLY "BACKWASH" A SLOW SAND WATER FILTER ( force water to flow backwards - up through the
sand from the bottom drain at any pressure - high or low ). There are some filter designs that use a cleaning
method similar to backwashing, but the flow does not disrupt the sand layers and the design has been
carefully engineered, tested and shown to be functional. Simply hooking up a pressurized water source to
the bottom of a biological sand water filter and forcing water backwards through the filter ( as shown on
several youtube videos) is not the same thing and will most likely destroy the filter. In a biological sand filter
(slow sand water filter), the top few centimeters of sand contain living organisms and a biological mat. The
biological mat thickens and small particles are trapped in and on top of this mat. This is what slows down
the flow. If you backwash the filter you will mix all the debris throughout the filter as gravity allows the
material from the top to settle down throughout the depth of the sand and this will plug the filter for good.
Unlike a rapid sand filter, backwashing disrupts and may very well destroy the biological component and the
physical structure of the lower layers of a biological sand filter. There is considerable biological activity below
the top layer that does not significantly impede the flow of water, yet is part of the biological filtration
process.33 (p 17, 93) If you are using a small slow sand filter with different sand sizes in layers, backwashing may
mix the sand layers and significanlty change the operating parameters of your filter. It is possible to allow
water to flow down through the filter more rapidly by opening a valve at the bottom of the filter (utilizing
only the pressure due to gravity) to wash out turbidity (when the filter is put into operation for the first time
after it is built) without seriously disrupting the filter strata. When this is done care must be taken to be
certain the surface of the sand on top is not exposed to air. back to top
28. What is the difference between rapid sand filtration and slow sand filtration (biological
sand filtration)?
Rapid sand filtration does not intentionally use a biological process, (some beneficial bacteria may grow
between backwashing events 33 (p 18)) its design uses strictly physical filtration. Very few disease causing
organisms are inactivated. Viruses are not removed. Water, that has had coagulant added, is forced through
coarse sand under high pressure resulting from depth of water and gravity or added external pressure.
These filters require cleaning every several days, or more often, by "backwashing" - forcing purified water or
air through them from the bottom drain pipes in a reverse direction of normal flow. Chemicals such as
chlorine or ozone must be added to the water to kill harmful bacteria and viruses. Large volumes of purified
water are required for backwashing, and large volumes of toxic sludge are produced as a result of daily
cleaning events called "backwashing". Rapid sand filters are not practical as a water purification method for
individual use. Rapid sand filtration is not sustainable technology - it requires continuous significant energy
and chemical input and is a highly complex man-made technological process which requires constant
monitoring. Rapid sand filters can supply very large volumes of water in a timely fashion typically needed by
large cities with populations in the millions of people. To discuss this and read more follow this link to the
slow sand filter blog
Biological sand filtration takes place through biological action, and some physical action. It is much slower
than rapid sand filtration and requires more area and much finer sand in layers of progressively coarser sand
towards the bottom of the filter. Layers of "good" organisms form in the sand. The thickest is in the top 2 or
3 cm of sand, however beneficial organisms are present at depths of up to 40 cm. 33 (p 22) The organisms in
the top 2 or 3 cm form a mat of organic substance called a "schmutzdecke" which physically filters water
while the bacteria in this schmutzdecke, along with the other bacteria present at lower depths in the sand,
actually consume and / or inactivate up to 99.9999 percent of all pathogens (including viruses) present in
the water that passes through the filter. Even though some slow sand filters have been designed to be
cleaned using water forced through the top 20 cm of sand, this is NOT backwashing - the bottom layers are
left undisturbed. These biological filters will be ruined if they are backwashed. They are referred to as: slow
sand fiters, or biosand filters or biological sand filters. These filters are sustainable technology. They require
no chemical input and very little energy input and do not require constant monitoring. They are the single
most effective filter for removing cryptosporidium (Beaver Fever) cysts from water (rapid sand filtration
combined with chemical disinfection is not as effective - it takes dangerously toxic amounts of chlorine or
ozone to kill the spores). The material resulting from cleaning is biologically non-toxic and can be used for
fertilizer. If wet-harrowing is used, the sand rarely requires replacement. 33 (p 17, 93) 25(p4), 26(p103-104), 27(p268-273)
29. What is COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand)?

Chemical Oxygen Demand is a measurement of the amount of organic material in water. 32
30. Will a slow sand filter remove poisons in water from toxic algae blooms?
In some cases, yes; but this is still being studied and there are differing varieties toxic algae found in most
parts of the world. There are 7 different toxins associated with toxic algae blooms: Microcystins, Nodularin,
Anatoxins, Saxitoxins, Cylindrospermopsins, Lyngbyatoxin a, and Aplysiatoxins. Slow sand filters have been
shown to remove (biodegrade) Microcystins. Some algae (cyanobacteria) are only toxic at certian times and
others are highly toxic. Only highly skilled persons with access to a laboratory can positively identify toxins,
and toxic algae types. DO NOT EVER USE WATER FROM A SOURCE THAT CONTAINS ANY VISIABLE SIGNS
OF ANY TYPE OF ALGAE, UNLESS YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT IT IS NOT TOXIC. DO NOT
GUESS. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. Toxic algae is seldom present in sub-surface fresh water, or in fresh
water that is moving.34,35,36,37,38,39
31. How fast does water move through a slow sand filter?
A slow sand filter is a dynamic device and will change over time. The amount of time it takes water to flow
through a slow sand filter will depend on the size of the sand, the depth of the sand, how long the filter has
been in operation after initial start up or after the most recent cleaning, the depth of water above the
surface of the sand, the area of the sand surface, and the turbidity of the input water. The filters described
in this study have flow volumes that vary from 3 litres per hour ( after 1 year of running without wet
harrowing ) to 45 litres per hour ( after 5 months of operation without wet harrowing ). The sand in these
filters described here typically holds 50 percent water by volume - approximately 100 litres. So the simple
math tells us that it takes anywhere from about 2 hours (almost too fast) to about 30 hours ( more than
slow enough ) for the water to flow through the filters described here. This is approximate time. More water
on top of the sand will increase the rate of flow and less water will decrease the rate of flow.
The way many studies refer to the flow rate is in meters per hour (m/hr) (1 cubic meter = 1000 litres )
rather than liters per hour (L/hr):
(cubic meters of water flow) divided by (unit time in hours or seconds) divided by (square meters of filter
bed area) 47 (p 5)
or: m3 / 1hr / m2
or: (doing the math) m / hr
or meters per hour.
Acceptable rates are between .1 and .3 m/hr
The above described filter with 45 litres per hour throughput has a "flow rate" of .184 m / hr
An explanation of the mathematics and theory to accurately describe the rate of flow at any given point in a
slow sand filter is beyond the scope of this faq. Wikipedia has information on Darcy's law which describes
the flow of water through sand and might be a good place to start. Oklahoma state university has more
detailed information about Darcy's law Keep in mind the different layers in a slow sand filter have differing
resistances to the flow of water.
32. Will a slow sand filter work at near freezing temperatures?

Yes; under certain conditions. If the surface of the sand does not freeze, and the water continues to flow
through the filter. In the study summarized on this website, the most recent test was done when the
average ambient temperature was 32 degrees. At this temperature the slow sand filter was able to remove
99.9996 percent of the coliform bacteria from the input water. A log reduction of 3.477 ( from 30,000 cfu to
10 cfu ). If water stops flowing, and / or the surface of the sand freezes then the filter stops functioning.
Note: In the past seven or eight months websites describing biological sand filters / slow sand filters have
been appearing with instructions recommending BACKWASHING a biological sand filter when the flow rate
slows down. FORCEFULLY BACKWASHING A BIOLOGICAL SLOW SAND FILTER WILL DESTROY IT. These
well meaning people have confused rapid sand filtration with biological sand filtration , and backwashing
with reverse flow. In a biological sand filter, the flow rate is slowed by a buildup of material on the TOP FEW
CENTIMETERS of sand. Simply gently agitating this layer and DRAINING OFF the cloudy water will restore
the flow rate. In some filter designs, water is allowed to flow "backwards" (at nearly same rate as it
flows in normal operation ) through a biological sand filter without "fluidizing" the sand bed, but this is
not the same thing as backwashing. Backwashing fluidizes the sand bed, reverse flow does not. 52 (p 5-11).
Think of this: whatever is on your roof will wash off in the rain and onto and into the soil near your house. If
your garden is near any downspout and if there is any lead, arsenic, copper, PAH contamination, or
chromium on your roof the plants in your garden will be able to take those chemicals into their roots, and
dust from the soil will be on the leaves. 48, 49, 50 The more time that passes the more concentrated the
chemicals will become in the soil around your house. ALLOWING THE DOWNSPOUTS TO DRAIN INTO THE
COUNTY OR CITY WASTEWATER SYSTEM IS ABSOLUTELY UNACCEPTALBE - PERIOD. The combination of a
first flush diverter and a slow sand filter will take a considerable amount of that pollution out of the water
that runs off of your roof - but not all of it; and some of the chemicals from your roof water runoff may
biodegrade. Also, whatever pollution that is in the rain (and it can be a considerable amount depending on
where you are located) that falls on your vegetalble garden will accumulate in the soil. In addition to this the
dust that builds up on your roof in a dry spell mixed with runoff will be very toxic and extremly concentrated
in water from the first rain event following the dry spell. If you use a diverter (which can be built for under
75 dollars), much of this toxic liquid will be held back, and more of the toxic chemicals will be removed by
the slow sand filter.
Slow sand filter float valve flow control device in filter 3 and filter 2
The pvc pipe is 1/2 inch. There are .040 inch holes drilled on the bottom of the pipes to allow the water to
disperse without disturbing the sand surface.
The float valves limit the volume of the flow of input water so it matches the volume of the flow of water
through the filter. As the filters "ripen"
their flow rate will slow down. The float valves will, by their nature of operation, slow the flow of water
down equally.
The drawing below is of filter 3, the filter 2 drawing with the float valve installed is not yet done.
This is the newest float valve installed in filter 2. Note This is filter 3 with the float valve installed.
the "schmutzdecke" (dark color) on the white sand.
(This is not usually visible on all functioning filters)
The "schmutzdecke" is not necessarily visible on all filters. Filter 2 has deliberately not been cleaned
specificaly for the purpose of illustration and testing so it is possible to see the accumulation of substance
that
occurs over time. "Schmutzdecke" is just a fancy word for the top biolayer that does most of the work
purifying the water.
First flush diverter:
After a dry spell, this device diverts the first most polluted flow of rainwater from the roof away from the
water harvesting system. The recommended minimum rate of diversion is 1 gallon per 100 square feet of
roof surface. This diverter uses 2 gallons per 100 square feet.
See a demonstration on YouTube
New: 2011-05-02 A new video (part one) of first flush diverter construction is up on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ch-YsD9rOGk This is part one covering the input device and the float
seal. The rest will be in an upcoming video.
2009-08-10: The first major rainfall in 10 weeks just occurred: .7 inches of rain in 12 hours. After the 55
gallon space in the diverter storage space was filled, the operation was monitored for several hours at one
downspout draining a 1000 square foot surface area. It was necessary to quickly drain 20 gallons to allow
more washing to occur. The 55 gallon space was NOT sufficient to satisfactorily provide clean water,
although the most polluted runoff was kept out of the system. Without the diverter, the runoff would be of
limited use and would quickly impede the flow of water through the slow sand filter. The roof surface has
been dry for 10 weeks, and additionally, from 2009-07-26 to 2009-07-31 temperatures here (in the shade)
were well into the upper 90's and above 100 deg F for 3 consecutive days (all time record high temps for
this area) and the roof is a composition roof. The diverter had been totally emptied and cleaned on 2009-08-
09 (yesterday) and the gutters and roof surface had been cleared of leaves, small loose roofing particles,
small twigs, and other organic substances that had accumulated during the dry spell. At least 75 to 100
gallons of diversion should be available in this situation (extended dry periods during the summer). It should
be noted that this location is heavily wooded and there are numerous large 100 year old fir trees and maple
trees surrounding the roof area, and additionally the roof has moss covering 30 percent of the area being
monitored.
Note change to output pipe size as of Nov. 15 2009
First flush diverter drawing
Note: the output to storage pipe is designed for light to moderate
rainfall events. In areas where very heavy rainfall occurs, the
pipe should be at least 1 1/2 inch diameter; see first flush diverter
photo below. (1 1/2 inch pipe allows 24 liters per minute flow).
Drawing of float seal device
First flush diverter with float seal (external link)
2009-08-10 Water samples from the roofwater harvesting system. Each container is 16.5 cm
high by 9 cm in diameter and contains 1/2 litre of water. (1 inch = 2.54 cm), (1 gallon = 3.785
litres)
First flush diverter photo.
Note the 1 1/2 inch pipe on the output which
was changed from 3/4 inch Nov. 15 2009.
2009-08-10 Each container holds 12 litres of
water.
The top container is water straight off of the
roof after
1.9 cm (3/4 in.) of rain
preceded by a 10 week dry spell. The middle
container is
water cleaned by the diverter; the bottom
container is water
cleaned by the diverter that has been run
through the
slow sand filter (Filter 1). The diverter shown on
this page
will remove some, but not all, harmful bacteria
back to FAQ page

Illustrations
Sl
ow sand filter drawing
Note:In addition to smaller gravel (1/4 inch instead of 3/8 inch), a 2 inch layer of coarse sand is
recommended immediately on top of the 1/4 inch pea gravel.
New illustration: The addtion of a float valve makes the filter more convenient to operate and does not
require electricty or petrol to operate.
Thi
This is the drainpipe assembly with the caps s is how the drain pipes look when they are installed in
installed. It is just sitting on top of the container the container. This container is 40 inches deep.
for the sake of taking the picture. The output of
the drainpipe assembly is hooked to a "bulkhead
fitting" sometimes called a "bulkhead adapter".
This keeps the output pipe from leaking where it
passes through the filter container.
There is a short piece of 1/2 inch pvc that This is a close-up of the threaded bushing and
hooks this up to the baffle assembly. threaded male adapter. Only 1 o ring is shown but
2 are needed - one on the inside of the bucket and
one on the outside of the bucket.
A 3/4 inch spade bit was used to drill a hole This ball valve is used to set the flow to the same
in the bottom of the bucket. The male rate as the output of the filter.
adapter and threaded bushing were then
installed with a number 16 o ring on each
side of the bucket. The adapter and bushing
are 1/2 inch.
The container used for the filter came with a top

with 1 hole in the center. Another "vent" hole was
added on each side to allow air (oxygen) to This is the drain that was added to allow the wet-
circulate through to the water in the filter. The harrowing water to drain off. Note the screen in the vent
"vent" holes are covered by screens. This hole on top of the lid near the bottom of the bucket. The
illustration shows the baffle pipes hooked up hole for this screen was drilled with a 3/4 inch spade bit.
through the top. They are just "friction-fit" into the
adapter that has been installed in the bottom of
the bucket. The small holes in the baffle pipes are
drilled with a number 50 drill bit. They allow the
water to slowly flow into the filter. This keeps the
surface of the sand and the biofilm from being
disturbed.
Open this valve to allow water to flow through the

filter rapidly to wash the sand. Keep in mind that
this valve, if open all the way, will let water flow
through the filter too fast for purification. back to
faq page
The completed filter hooked up to the

automatic recirculating pump.
Please note:This is not a "production" model
and is not intended to be aesthetically
pleasing - it is strictly funtional.
This is the pump used to recirculate the water.

The pressure switch was added for depenabiltiy
and pressure adjustment flexibilty. The flow is
controlled by the ball valve shown above.
DANGER! do not use a 120 volt ac motor
in this fashion. This motor is outdoors under cover but
still not safe with 120 volt operations (either ac or dc).
The surrounding area is usually wet which adds to the
conductivity of the "ground" connection which greatly
increases the likelyhood of a dangerous shock. Always,
ALWAYS, use a fuse of appropriate amperage in your
circuit. Keep in mind, that if you are using a battery
charger on your battery, you are effectively connected to
110 volts ac. If the battery charger transformer gets wet
or shorts out, there could likely be 110 volts at the motor
with enough current to create a hazardous condition
without blowing the dc fuse. You have been warned!
This is the baffle before cleaning. Note the small

piece of 1/2 inch pvc at the center. That is how it
connects to the bucket through the top. It just
frictions in. It won't matter if it leaks slightly
because the water will end up in the filter as it
flows through the air vent.
Illustrations of sand sizes large view

Sand size examples
FILTER 1
Slow sand filter in barrel
The barrel is a recycled container. The top cover is cedar. There is an outlet at the bottom of the barrel.
the pipe on the side is a carbon filter made from pvc pipe and screens inside to hold the charcoal.
The silver colored thing on the right is an inexpensive sprinkler head; it lets the air in and keeps the
mosquitoes and other critters out. There is a screen on the left also that serves the same function, it was
what I had on hand. The idea is that there must be oxygen to the surface of the water or the biofilm will die
and the filter won't work. This barrel is almost full of sand and water and it is VERY heavy. When you put
one of these together make sure it is where you want it and make sure where ever it is located that there is
sufficient support for at least 2000 pounds in a concentrated area. You have been warned.
The top pipe is 4inch pvc fitting into a reducer adapter. You will need to slightly sand down the 4 inch pipe
to be able to easily remove it to clean the screens inside. If you are careful this can be done. The 4 inch pipe
holds the large input screen (see image below) in place. This length of four inch pipe on top holds about 1
quart of water, it has now been replaced with a 5 gallon bucket that has a .040 hole drilled in the bottom.
The bucket sits over the reducer adapter
The fine sand holds 50 percent water by volume when saturated. The coarse sand holds 37.5 percent water
by volume when saturated. This 55 gallon barrel is filled such that there is room for approximately 21
gallons of water including the water that must be on the surface. Twenty gallons of water are in the
saturated sand. This means it takes 5 hours for a complete change of water in the system if 4 gallons are
added regularly over a 5 hour period. The action of water flowing through the filter is close to linear above 1
gallon of water added at a time until the water stops running out. Below that level it takes much longer for
the water in the filter to be completely replaced. Adding 3/4 of a gallon at a time is the safest way to
operate the filter, and still get a fairly acceptable flow rate. Using the 5 gallon bucket with the .040 inch hole
drilled in the bottom allows the water to flow into the filter from the bucket at about the right speed.
Slow
sand filter
Slow sand filter drawing
Input screen

Slow Sand Filters at Home

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SLOW SAND FILTERS AT HOME

Filter two (float valve installed 2011- Filter three

2010 (including POND FILTER):

HYDROCARBONS (TPH) IN ROOFWATER ARE SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED BY A SLOW SAND

7.2009/02/17: Added a float valve to filter 3.

2009/03/13 Update: All the filters are now back in operation.

2009/12/22 Update: All filters are now in operation.

back to FAQ page

What are these pictures?

A (is 10 stage carbon) filtered well water (the clearest);

1. What is a slow sand filter?

1. What is a slow sand filter?

2. How does a slow sand filter work?

3. Are slow sand filters safe?61 (339-340; 345-346)

4. What are the disadvantages of a small slow sand filter?

5. What are the advantages of a small slow sand filter?

9. How much do small slow sand filters cost?

13. What is "Uniformity coefficient"?

Use a first flush diverter (see FAQ 17 below).

Use a high quality 10 stage carbon filter at the point of use.

17. What is a first flush diverter?

19. What is "wet harrowing"?

20. Will a slow sand filter remove industrial pollution?

22. Can I purify roof water with a slow sand filter?

23. Where can I get plans for a slow sand filter?

25. Can I use a slow sand filter to purify tap water?

27. How is a slow sand filter "cleaned"?

29. What is COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand)?

32. Will a slow sand filter work at near freezing temperatures?

See a demonstration on YouTube

First flush diverter with float seal (external link)

back to FAQ page

The container used for the filter came with a top

Open this valve to allow water to flow through the

The completed filter hooked up to the

This is the pump used to recirculate the water.

This is the baffle before cleaning. Note the small

Illustrations of sand sizes large view

Slow sand filter drawing

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