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C R O C H ET SH AR K AM I G U R U M I

DISCLOSURE: This post may contain affiliate links through which I earn a small
commission from qualifying purchases.

We’ve been singing Slippery Fish a lot in our house lately (that, and What Does
the Fox Say?), and with Shark Week coming up, I thought I’d make a quick
crochet shark stuffed animal to share with you all, and of course, for my kids! This
crochet shark amigurumi is just a ball with fins, so we’ve named him Bernard the
Ball Shark, and he works up pretty easily, but as always, the devil is in the
details – the gills, teeth, and fins. I’ve tried to take step by step photos when I
remember, so hopefully, they will make sense to you.
For this toy, I used a dark gray yarn, a light gray yarn and a white yarn. I snagged
some Red Heart With Love yarn a Walmart for under a dollar last Thanksgiving,
and it’s finally being used! I also used my trusty Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. I
found that the Red Heart yarn was a little thicker than the Lion Brand yarn, even
though both are considered worsted weight 4 yarn. The difference in weight didn’t
hurt the result at all; actually, it provided a bit of texture difference – I used Red
Heart With Love in white for the teeth, and it stood out nicely against the Vanna’s
Choice and made it more clear that hey, those are teeth!
CROCHET SHARK AMIGUR UMI SUPPLIES
 H (5 mm) hook (Clover Amour Hook*)
 Note: I normally use a size G (4 mm) for stuffed toys, but
went up a size due to the thicker Red Heart With Love
Yarn.
 Red Heart With Love in White, Red Heart With Love in
Pewter, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Solids in Linen*
 Each color required less than 1 skein. The Pewter was the
most used and that was maybe half a skein.
 12 mm safety eyes
 Lion Brand BonBons in Black
 embroidery needle
 scissors
 polyester fiberfill

* denotes affiliate links

ABBREVIATIONS
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (joining/decreasing stitch)

PATTERN NOTES
 I joined my rounds using Planet June’s no-cut join method because
I was designing on the fly, so the instructions reflect a joined seam.
It’ll work just as well if you work in continuous rounds, it’s up to you.
 The eyes, gills and teeth embroidery are sewn into the body before it
is stuffed and closed up. The fins are added after the body is
complete.
 The positioning of the eyes, gills and teeth embroidery do not have to
be exact, especially the gills and teeth marks. I’ve given my best
estimate of where everything is attached, but I wouldn’t worry about
being completely exact with positioning of all the pieces.
 LEFT FIN is the shark’s left fin and RIGHT FIN is the shark’s right fin,
as if you are the shark.
CROCHET SHARK INSTRUCTIONS
BODY:
Round 1: With light gray (Linen), work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join with sl st to
first sc. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into next stitch, 2 sc into next stitch.* Repeat


around. Join with sl st to first sc. (18)

Round 4: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (24)

Round 5: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (30)

Round 6: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 4 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (36)

Round 7: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 5 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (42)

Round 8: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 6 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (48)

Round 9: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 7 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (54)

Round 10: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 8 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*
Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 12: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 9 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.* 2x.
Work 1 sc into each of next 8 stitches, changing color to white on last stitch. With
white yarn, work 1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 4
stitches, changing back to light gray on last stitch. (7 white stitches). With light
gray yarn, work 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches, then 2 sc in next stitch.*Work
1 sc into each of next 9 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.* 2x. Join with sl st to first
sc. (66)
Round 13: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of next 28 stitches, changing to white on
last stitch. With white yarn, work 1 sc in each of next 11 stitches, changing back
to light gray on last stitch. Work 1 sc into each of next 27 stitches. Join with sl st
to first sc. (66)

Round 14: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 10 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*
2x. Work 1 sc in each of next 5 stitches, changing color to white on last stitch.
With white yarn, work 1 sc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in
each of next 7 stitches, changing back to light gray on last stitch. (14 whi te
stitches). With light gray yarn, work 1 sc in each of next 3 stitches, then 2 sc in
next stitch. *Work 1 sc into each of next 10 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.* 2x. Join
with sl st to first sc. Change to the dark gray yarn. (72)

Round 15: With the dark gray yarn: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join
with sl st to first sc. (72)

Round 16: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 11 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch.*
Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (78)

Round 17-20: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc.
(78)

Round 21: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 11 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (72)

Round 22: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (72)

Round 23: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 10 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.*


Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (66)

Round 24: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (66)

Round 25: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 9 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 26: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 27: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 8 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (54)

Round 28: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 7 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (48)

Round 29: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 6 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (42)

Round 30: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 5 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (36)

Round 31: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 4 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (30)
Round 32: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 3 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (24)

At this point, stop to install the eyes, the gills and the teeth. Also, time to stuff the
shark with polyfill!

Round 33: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into each of next 2 stitches. Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat
around. Join with sl st to first sc. (18)

Round 34: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc into stitch, then work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat around. Join
with sl st to first sc. (12)

Round 35: Ch 1. *Work 1 sc2tog.* Repeat around. Join with sl st to first sc. (6)

Cut a tail, and pull the yarn through the last loop on hook. Weave the yarn from
inside to outside of front loops only of each (6) stitch. Pull tight, fasten off, weave
in ends.

LEFT FIN:
Row 1: Ch. 9. Starting from the 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sc into each of next
8 chains. Ch 1. Turn. (8)

Row 2: Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 4 stitches, 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (6)

Row 3: Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 2 stitches, 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (4)

Row 4: Work 1 sc2tog, and 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (2)

Row 5: Work 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (1)

Row 6: Work 1 sc into the single stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (1)

Row 7: Work 2 sc into the single stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (2)

Row 8: Work 2 sc into each stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (4)

Row 9: Work 2 sc into first stitch, 1 sc into each of next 2 stitches, 2 sc into last
stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (6)
Row 10: Work 2 sc into first stitch, 1 sc into each of next 4 stitches, 2 sc into last
stitch. Turn. (8)

Fold the piece to create a triangle shape – you’ll be crocheting the two sides
together. Insert hook into first stitch (there’s no chain stitch made) AND through
both loops of the other side, work 1 sc. Working through all 4 loops, continue
working 1 sc evenly across two sides of the triangle. Fasten off, leavi ng a long
enough tail to sew onto the body.

Weave in the starting tail into the inside of the fin.


RIGHT FIN:
Row 1: Ch 2. Work 1 sc into first ch (2nd ch from hook). Ch 1. Turn. (1)

Row 2: Work 2 sc into the single stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (2)

Row 3: Work 2 sc into each stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (4)


Row 4: Work 2 sc into first stitch, 1 sc into each of next 2 stitches, 2 sc into last
stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (6)

Row 5: Work 2 sc into first stitch, 1 sc into each of next 4 stitches, 2 sc into last
stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (8)

Row 6: Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 4 stitches, 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (6)

Row 7: Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 2 stitches, 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (4)

Row 8: Work 1 sc2tog, and 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (2)

Row 9: Work 1 sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. (1)

Row 10: Work 1 sc into the single stitch. Turn. (1)

Fold the piece to create a triangle shape – you’ll be crocheting the two sides
together. Insert hook into first stitch (there’s no chain stitch made) AND the other
side, work 1 sc. Working both sides together, continue working 1 sc evenly across
two sides of the triangle. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew onto the
body.

Weave in the starting tail into the inside of the fin.

DORSAL FIN:
Row 1: Leave an 8 in starting tail. Ch 2. Work 4 sc into first ch (2nd ch from
hook.) Ch 2 – does not count as dc in next row. Turn. (4)

Row 2: Work 2 dc into each stitch across. Ch 1. Turn. (8)

Row 3: Work 1 sc in each of next 2 stitches. Work 2 dc in each of next 4 stitches.


Work 1 sc in each of next 2 stitches. Ch 2. Turn. (12)

Row 4: Work 3 dc in first stitch. Work 2 dc in next stitch. Work 1 dc in next stitch,
2 dc in next stitch. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches. Work 2 dc in next stitch, 1
dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. Work 3 dc in last stitch. Ch 2. Turn. (20)

Row 5: *Work 2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next stitch.* 5x. *Work 1 dc in next stitch,
2 dc in next stitch.* 5x. Turn (30)
Fold the bottom half of the fin up, and using the active yarn, work slip stitches
across to join the two halves. Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew onto the body. Use
the starting tail to sew the two halves of the back of the fin together.
TAIL:
You’ll make 2 tails and crochet them together. For the first one, fasten off both
tails and weave in. On the second tail, weave in the starting tail, and use the end
tail to crochet the two pieces together.

Row 1: Ch 16. Starting from 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sc into each of next 3
ch. Work 1 hdc into each of next 3 ch. Work 1 dc into each of next 3 ch. Work 2
dc in each of next 2 st. Work 1 dc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next stitch, 1 sc in each
of next 2 stitches. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 2: Work 1 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in next st.
Work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in each of next 2 stitches. Work 1 dc in ea ch of next 2 st, 1
hdc in each of next 3 st, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc. Fasten off.

To join the 2 tails together, insert hook through both pieces, and work slip stitches
evenly around. Fasten off and weave in ends. You’ll add a new piece of yarn to
sew onto the body.

AS S E M B L Y :
Gill #1: Ch 9. Starting from 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sl st into each chain
across. Fasten off. Leave tail to sew onto body.

Gill #2: Ch 7. Fasten off. Leave tail to sew onto body.

Gill #3: Ch 5.Fasten off. Leave tail to sew onto body.


 The eyes are positioned between rows 18 and 19, at around stitch 33,
and around stitch 48. They should line up with the curve of the mouth.
 The gills are added about 3 stitches behind the eyes, with each gill
separated by about 2 stitches apiece, in this order – #1, #2, #3. Use
the tail to sew the gills onto the body, using a running stitch, and
forcing a slight curve to the gills with the stitches.
 Zigzag the thin Black yarn over the white stitches to “draw” the teeth.
 The dorsal fin is attached to the top of the shark’s head, centered.
 Each side fin is attached to the body where the light gray and dark
gray meets (row 22). The front of each fin lines up approximately with
the 3rd gill.
 To join the tail to the body, cut a piece of yarn about a foot long, join it
to the tail with a knot around a v-stitch (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc), leaving
enough yarn to sew to the body. The tail joins where the light gray
meets the dark gray, aligned with the dorsal fin up top. Make sure all
ends are secure and weave in all ends.

Whew! This little guy is a great hugger and a great sport – he’s being thrown
around the house like a bouncy ball right now. Share your crochet shark creations
with me on Facebook and Instagram with #1dogwoof, and happy #SharkWeek!

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