1. What is the need of a speciality show?Discuss.

Fashion show:
Fashion show is the event that communicate and represent a fashion story. It is an
event put on by a fashion designer to show his or her upcoming line of clothing during
Fashion Week. Fashion shows launch every season, specifically the Spring/Summer
and Fall/Winter seasons. This is where the latest fashion trends are made. The two
most influential fashion weeks are Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week,
which are both semiannual events. Also the Milan, London and Berlin Fashion Weeks
are of global expectancy. It is one of the tools of fashion promotion.

Fashion shows can be arranged at both consumer and the trade. Designer fashion shows are
targeted pre-eminently by trade, fashion journalists and photographers who are invited to
preview the latest collections. The major international shows organize in London, Paris, Milan
and New York. These shows are the excellent vehicles for gaining designer publicity.

Fashion shows can create a desirable fashion designers name by promoting their collections.
By this way retail buyers are associated with designers. Excluding the designer shows, there
are charity shows and retail sponsored shows which the public can attend and through which
publicity can be attained by the designer, manufacturer and retailer.

2. Explain the procedures of designing apparels for a specialty show.

3. Categorise the different fashion shows with a brief explanation.

Types of Fashion Show:

Fashion events can range in everything from size to style. What you will need for the
event will always depend of what type of an event you are trying to put forward. Being a
form of art display and mixing in with all the other art categories (exhibitions, galas etc.)
fashion events can also be very easily combined to create a more diverse and complex
event overall. There are 6 main types of events in the fashion industry in which most
people either be a part of or view.

There are mainly 6 types of fashion show. These are shortly described in below:

1. A formal runway fashion show

2. A production fashion show
3. An informal fashion show
4. Designer fashion show
5. Charity fashion show
6. Sponsored fashion show
1. A formal runway show:
This form of fashion display is one that people will be most familiar with. It is the
conventional way for designers to show off their clothing and accessories in a
wearable manner (on models). It is similar to a parade in terms of its setup and
practice. A runway show will last anywhere between thirty minutes and a hour,
where the live models walk or dance along a raised platform in a sequential
manner, wearing the apparel of the designer.

The runway show itself can be done according to any theme and done in any
style– some are formal while others are far more informal. But they will always
feature these characteristics: a theme (merchandise and scene development), a
specified special location, staging and lighting, models, make-up and hair style,
production and music.

2. A production show:
This is the most expensive form of fashion shows, as the whole event is almost
like a theatrical performance where there is a whole production element behind
the show. Fashion and the different fashion trends at the time are displayed and
bought to life using special entertainment, backdrops and scenery, lighting
effects, live or produced music, and even theatrical performances (acting or
dancing). These events can also be done to any specific preferences and can
feature 5 models or 50, but once again the clothing is shown on the actual body
of a person, as a way to show onlookers how the fashion can work in everyday
life.

3. An informal fashion show:

Once again garments are displayed on models but in a very relaxed and informal
environment- perhaps in a department store or as they mingle among guests at
an event. There are no special lighting or sound requirements and the sell-ability
of the clothing is purely up to the model and how he or she looks in the outfit.
This form of display requires very little planning (as it is essentially just the
model, hair and makeup production and the clothing that needs to be presented)
and can be slipped in with almost any other event. Some say that this form of
fashion revelation is actually quite subliminal as the spotlight is not being shown
on the fashion model or the clothing but it is still being advertised.

4. Designer fashion show:

Designers are choosing from each showing their seasonal collections. Each
show will feature just one designer, lasting approximately 30 minutes.

5. Charity fashion show:

 Charity fashion show performers that are held for a charitable purpose, often
directed at a specific and immediate humanitarian crisis.

6. Sponsored fashion show:

The fashion show is organized by the sponsor of any company or organization is
called sponsored fashion show.

4. Write a brief note on designing of special categories.

5. Write a brief note on intimate apparels.

intimate apparel - women's underwear and nightclothes. lingerie. nightdress,

nightgown, nightie, night-robe, gown - lingerie consisting of a loose dress
designed to be worn in bed by women. underclothes, underclothing, underwear -
undergarment worn next to the skin and under the outer garments.

6. Discuss on the evolution of styles of intimate apparels from antiquity to

modern.

https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/fashion-trends/biggest-trends-intimate-apparel-right-now-54027/

https://digpodcast.org/2018/06/24/underwear-intimate-apparel/

https://www.elle.com/fashion/trend-reports/g28532/evolution-of-lingerie/

7. What are the different fibers,fabrics and accessories being used for intimate apparels?Discuss.

http://preprod-scitec.liveperformancesales.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/3-s2.0-
B9781782423690000013-main.pdf

8. What is the relationship between the intimate apparel designs and ready to wear designs?
9. Discuss on the recent techniques used in constructing intimate apparels.

https://www.cita.org.hk/en/industry/research-project/acfm-of-the-manufacturing-processes-of-
intimate-apparel-products/

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7084/machines-used-in-lingerie-making

10. Write a short note on leather garments and its uses.

Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning animal rawhide and skins. The most
common raw material is cattle hide. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging
from artisan to modern industrial scale.
Leather is used to make a variety of articles, including footwear, automobile seats, clothing, bags,
book bindings, fashion accessories, and furniture. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles
and decorated by a wide range of techniques. The earliest record of leather artifacts dates back to
2200 BC.

https://www.truthaboutfur.com/blog/5-reasons-must-wear-leather-fur/

11. Give a brief note on the production procedure of Fur clothing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fur_clothing

https://www.truthaboutfur.com/en/fur-processing-techniques

Processing of fur[edit]

Traditional Sami fur footwear

The manufacturing of fur clothing involves obtaining animal pelts where the hair is left on. Depending
on the type of fur and its purpose, some of the chemicals involved in fur processing may include
table salts, alum salts, acids, soda ash, sawdust, cornstarch, lanolin, degreasers and, less
commonly, bleaches, dyes and toners (for dyed fur).[13] Workers exposed to fur dust created during
fur processing have been shown to have reduced pulmonary function in direct proportion to their
length of exposure.[14]
The use of wool involves shearing the animal's fleece from the living animal, so that the wool can be
regrown but sheepskin shearling is made by retaining the fleece to the leather and shearing
it.[15] Shearling is used for boots, jackets and coats..
In contrast, leather made from any animal hide involves removing the fur from the skin and using
only the tanned skin. However, the use of wool involves shearing the animal's hair from the living
animal. Fake fur (or "faux fur") designates any synthetic material that attempts to mimic the
appearance and feel of real fur.
The chemical treatment of fur to increase its felting quality is known as carroting, as the process
tends to turn the tips of the fur a carrot orange color. A furrier is a person who makes fur products
such as fur garments, fur blankets etc. and repairs, alters, cleans, or otherwise deals in furs of
animals.
Fur factories are extremely harmful to soil.[citation needed] The process of fur manufacturing includes
waterways-pumping waste and the toxic chemicals in to the surrounding environment. On the other
hand, fur is naturally biodegradable, whereas faux fur is not.[16]
 12. What are the regulations implemented on Leather apparels and why?

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7287/environmental-standards-for-reducing-pollution-
from-textile-and-leather-industry

Federal law requires that most textile and wool products have a label that lists the fiber content, the
country of origin, and the identity of the manufacturer or another business responsible for marketing or
handling the product. For fur, labels must disclose the animal name, the country of origin, information
about the treatment of the item (for example, if it is bleached or colored), a Registered Identification
Number, and other relevant information. The Fur Rules also set standards for the size and durability of
the labels, the lettering, and the order in which information is presented. The FTC’s Guides for Select
Leather and Imitation Leather Products cover a wide range of items, including luggage, handbags, belts,
footwear, and other apparel. Under the Care Labeling Rule, manufacturers and importers must provide
instructions so consumers know how to clean the products they buy.

13. Discuss on the scope of leather and fur garments.

https://www.ibef.org/blogs/leather-exports-from-india-going-strong

14. Explain the production and finishing process being followed in the leather industry for making
apparels.

Leather production processes

The leather manufacturing process is divided into three sub-processes: preparatory
stages, tanning and crusting. All true leathers will undergo these sub-processes. A further sub-
process, surface coating may be added into the sequence. The list of operations that leathers
undergo vary with the type of leather.

Production management[edit]
The leather making process is in general restricted to batch processing, but if the surface coating
sub-process is added then some continuous processing can be included. The operation flow has to
follow the preparatory → tanning → crusting → surface coating sub-process order without deviation,
but some of the sub-processes can be omitted to make certain leathers (or partially tanned/
untanned products).
Preparatory stages[edit]
The preparatory stages are when the hide/skin is prepared for tanning.[1] During the preparatory
stages many of the unwanted raw skin components are removed. Many options for pretreatment of
the skin exist. Not all of the options may be performed. Preparatory stages may include:[2]

 preservation- the hide/skin is treated with a method which renders it temporarily imputrescible.
 soaking - water for purposes of washing or rehydration is reintroduced.
 liming - unwanted proteins and "opening up" is achieved.
 unhairing - the majority of hair is removed.
 fleshing - subcutaneous material is removed.
 splitting - the hide/skin is cut into two or more horizontal layers.
 reliming - the hide/skin is further treated to achieve more "opening up" or more protein removal.
 deliming - liming and unhairing chemicals are removed from the pelt.
 bating - proteolytic proteins are introduced to the skin to remove further proteins and to assist
with softening of the pelt.[3]
 degreasing - natural fats/oils are stripped or as much as is possible from the hide/skin.[4]
 frizing - physical removal of the fat layer inside the skin.[5] Also similar to Slicking.
 bleaching - chemical modification of dark pigments to yield a lighter coloured pelt.
 pickling - lowering of the pH value to the acidic region. Must be done in the presence of salts.
Pickling is normally done to help with the penetration of certain tanning agents, e.g., chromium
(and other metals), aldehydic and some polymeric tanning agents
 depickling - raising of the pH out of the acidic region to assist with penetration of certain tanning
agents

Tanning[edit]
Main article: Tanning (leather)

Barrel for leather tanning, Igualada Leather Museum, Spain

Tanning is the process that converts the protein of the raw hide or skin into a stable material which
will not putrefy and is suitable for a wide variety of end applications. The principal difference between
raw hides and tanned hides is that raw hides dry out to form a hard inflexible material that can
putrefy when re-wetted (wetted back), while tanned material dries out to a flexible form that does not
become putrid when wetted back. A large number of different tanning methods and materials can be
used; the choice is ultimately dependent on the end application of the leather. The most commonly
used tanning material is chromium, which leaves the leather, once tanned, a pale blue colour (due to
the chromium), this product is commonly called “wet blue”.
The acidity of hides once they have finished pickling will typically be between pH of 2.8-3.2. At this
point the hides are loaded in a drum and immersed in a float containing the tanning liquor. The hides
are allowed to soak (while the drum slowly rotates about its axle) and the tanning liquor slowly
penetrates through the full substance of the hide. Regular checks will be made to see the
penetration by cutting the cross section of a hide and observing the degree of penetration. Once an
even degree of penetration is observed, the pH of the float is slowly raised in a process called
basification. This basification process fixes the tanning material to the leather, and the more tanning
material fixed, the higher the hydrothermal stability and increased shrinkage temperature resistance
of the leather. The pH of the leather when chrome tanned would typically finish somewhere between
3.8-4.2.[6]

Crusting[edit]

Drying of leather in East Timor

This section does not cite any sources. Please help improve this
section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material
may be challenged and removed.
Find sources: "Leather production
processes" – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (June
2014) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

Crusting is when the hide/skin is thinned, retanned and lubricated. Often a coloring operation is
included in the crusting sub-process. The chemicals added during crusting have to be fixed in place.
The culmination of the crusting sub-process is the drying and softening operations. Crusting may
include the following operations:

 wetting back - semi-processed leather is rehydrated.

 sammying - 45-55%(m/m) water is squeezed out the leather.
 splitting - the leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
 shaving - the leather is thinned using a machine which cuts leather fibres off.
 neutralisation - the pH of the leather is adjusted to a value between 4.5 and 6.5.
 retanning - additional tanning agents are added to impart properties.
 dyeing - the leather is coloured.
 fatliquoring - fats/oils and waxes are fixed to the leather fibres.
 filling - heavy/dense chemicals that make the leather harder and heavier are added.
 stuffing - fats/oils and waxes are added between the fibres.
 stripping - superficially fixed tannins are removed.
 whitening - the colour of the leather is lightened.
 fixation - all unbound chemicals are chemically bonded/trapped or removed from the leather
 setting - area, grain flatness are imparted and excess water removed.
 drying - the leather is dried to various moisture levels (commonly 14-25%).
 conditioning - water is added to the leather to a level of 18-28%.
 softening - physical softening of the leather by separating the leather fibres.
 buffing - abrasion of the surfaces of the leather to reduce nap or grain defects.

Surface coating[edit]
For some leathers a surface coating is applied. Tanners refer to this as finishing. Finishing
operations may include:

 oiling
 brushing
 padding
 impregnation
 buffing
 spraying
 roller coating
 curtain coating
 polishing
 plating
 embossing
 ironing
 combing (hair-on)
 glazing

15. What is a baby fashion?Discuss on infant clothing and its size sets.
Infant clothing or baby clothing is clothing for infants. Baby fashion is a social-cultural
consumerist practice that encodes in children's fashion the representation of many social features
and depicts a system characterized by differences in social class, richness, gender or ethnicity.

Size

Infant and toddler clothing size is typically based on age.[1] These are usually preemie for a preterm
birth baby, 0 to 3 months, 3 to 6 months, 6 to 9 months, 9 to 12 months, 12 months, 18 months, and
24 months, though there is no industry standard definition for those sizes.[1] Most retailers provide
sizing charts based on a child's weight, height, or both, and the child's weight and height
percentile may also be used for properly sizing clothing for the infant.[1]
In an article in the October 1945 issue of Ladies' Home Journal, B. F. Skinner stated that clothing
and bedding "interfere with normal exercise and growth and keep the baby from taking comfortable
postures or changing posture during sleep".[2] An infant may stretch, necessitating clothing that is
sufficiently loose to allow movement.[3]
 16. Write a note on the choice of style of maternity dress and its key features.
Maternity clothing is worn by women in some cultures as an adaptation to changes in body size
during pregnancy.

Some of the incorporated features of Maternity Clothes [36]

A) Pattern styling features ( like godet, extension features, pattern shaping,
appropriate trims, placket etc)
1. Godet: it is a triangular wedge of fabric which is inserted between the seams to bring
in fullness. This is used to provide fullness in side seam of Kurta/ Kameez/ Tops/
Dungaree. The dimensions of the godet were designed so as to accommodate the
growth allowance as indicated in table. This fullness was controlled by using the trims
i.e. zipper or button or the shoe string arrangement.
2. Extension features (Like wrap around, Cowls, Side seam extension): These are
existed of blocks to bring in more fullness. They can be extensions of the front panel
to make warp around Kameez/ Kurta or on open unstitched out seam of trouser for
making a warp around trouser. The extensions are built in on the stitched side seam
of the bifurcated garment which can be rolled to tie on the front.
3. The pattern shaping: The bifurcated garments are cut on low waist i.e. 2’’ – 3’’ below
the waist line and further shaping is done by 2’’ on the centre front to reduce the
front crotch length.
4. Placket: Eyes are stitched at three different positions on the left front panel Placket
extension. Hook arrangement is provided on the right front panel of the Kurta/
Kameez. Depending upon the demand on the waist position of the hook can be
changed to close with the relevant eye.
B) Construction features ( Like smocking, pleats etc )
1. Smocking and Gores (Panels): Gores (Panels) with elasticized smocking are used to
provide the much desired growth and also for styling. This features are generally used
in saree blouse where a gore panel is used under the arm and on the side seam and
this elasticized smocking gore (panel) provided the fullness to accommodate the
growth on bust during pregnancy and later lactation stage [37].
2. Pleat: It is a fold of fabric created by doubling cloth on itself. This features are used
on a Kurta or a Kameez (upper torso Garment). The pleat is positioned such that the
top of the pleat is at the bust base from where the maximum growth of the abdomen
starts. The growth on the abdomen will push against the fold of the fabric and the
pleat will come open to accommodate the growth. During pre and post pregnancy
the fabric will fold back to provide styling.
C) Fabrics selections ( Fabrics which are forgiving in nature)
Fabrics with stretch properties are selected to accommodate the anthropometric growth
on lower torso garments (i.e. salwar, churidar, trousers and skirts) and also to achieve
longevity.

D) Innovation in supper garment (Top-cum-Poncho)

The top is designed in such a way that there is button placket on side seam of the front
and back panel and inseam of the sleeve. The front inseam of the sleeve could be
unbuttoned with the inseam of the back sleeve and side seam of the front could be
buttoned with the side seam of the back to give a top. The front inseam of the sleeve
could be buttoned with the front side seam of the top and the back inseam of the back
side seam of the top to give a poncho.

17. Explain the structural design of a maternity clothing with its functionality.

Structural design of maternity dress The structural design of maternity dress should not only meet the
need of personal physical changes, but also maintain the health of fetus. So suitable and reasonable
structural design of maternity dress can help create a comfortable environment for the breed of new-
born life. In early pregnancy, it’s hard to find out any physical characteristic changes from pregnant
women, most of them wear ordinary clothes with bare ergonomics design. Stretchable knitwear made
up of cotton which look simple and elegant will be the first choice at this time. Relaxed design based on
large silhouette will not only make the clothes easy to put on and take off, but also let a woman in early
pregnancy look beautiful, charming, full of maternal glory. Gestational weeks from the 4th to the 12th is
an important period for embryonic development. During the time, pregnant woman should be aware of
radiation from phone, television and other home appliances, for electromagnetic radiation may do harm
to a woman in sensitive period. For the sake of safety, wearing radiationproof bellyband or vest is
supposed to be a good way of protection. In the middle period of pregnancy, great changes happen in
pregnant women’s bodies and their physical characteristic, especially their increasing size of chest and
abdomen. In consideration of low demand for body curve and sense of consistency, we suggest using H-
like design in which both the top and the bottom of the dress are designed under the same width. On
the other hand, A-like design with narrow top and wide bottom which raise the position of waist line can
also be a popular choice among the public. When doing some cutting to the dress, we have raise the
position of the waist and lower the sewing line of the chest, giving more space to the abdomen and
making the dress of the front longer than that of the back. In the late pregnancy, due to rapid growth of
the embryo, pregnant women’s abdomen become bigger and heavier while their act turns slower.
Dresses with more wrinkle in front of the chest and larger skirt is a good option for them to choose to
wear until giving birth to a child. In addition, it will appear to be more romantic and charming if we add
decorative boundary to exquisite wrinkle, mixing with flower and embroidery on the premise of wearing
a suitable open collar or collarless dress. What’s more, wearing rompers is a well-advised choice too,
which can not only lighten the binding force to the abdomen by sharing the weight using shoulders but
also play a role in supporting the abdomen.The phenomenon of frequent urination may happens quite
often during pregnancy because the bladder is pressed by the enlarged uterus. In order to be put on or
taken off conveniently, the rompers can be designed into no-bag style, accompanied with adjustable
belt which is able to adjust to the size of abdomen.

18. Write a note on plus size clothing and its popularity.

In the past, over-sized category was overlooked, but it's finally getting the deserved attention from
international and domestic retailers. Ankush Karwa co-founder - eShopbox discusses the potential,
challenges, and the future of plus size clothing category along with the rapidly rising trend of online
shopping in India.

Finding the right clothes to wear takes effort. It requires even more effort to find plus size clothes. The term
plus size may even sound rude, but that's what it is. Over the years, plus size has been considered as a niche
category, but now it is a booming industry. The emergence of online shopping has led to the increase in the
demand and supply of plus size clothing.

Market Scenario

Market Size:
Plus size clothing has come a long way. In the past, choices were limited, but the increase in number of
overweight customers around the world has led to the birth of a new niche in demand.

"'The Indian Belly' is the reason that they have started catering plus size services and gained back the
customers that they were losing," stated Prem Dewan who oversees the Indian retail market for Corneliani,
an Italian maker of svelte suits.

"Since economic growth slowed to 5 per cent last fiscal --- the weakest this decade --more retailers have
targeted specialised markets, such as those buying large sizes," says Abhay Gupta, Chief Executive Officer
of New Delhi based retail consulting firm Luxury Connect.

India's branded apparel market is projected to double to US$ 18 billion by 2017, according to for retail
consultancy Technopak Advisors, encouraging brands from Ermenegildo Zegna Group to Corneliani to
expand their business.

Market Growth:
In the past, over-sized category was overlooked, but it's finally getting the deserved attention from retailers
like Pantaloons, Biba and Mustard. Online fashion retailer Myntra recently ventured into plus size clothing
with a varied portfolio of brands, offering sizes ranging from 2XL to 5XL. "The plus size segment is a latent
market that offers huge opportunity," said Ganesh Subramanian, Head - New Initiatives at Myntra.com.

Retailers say almost 30 per cent of customers look for plus size clothing, a segment driven by increasing
demand. According to data from the study, as many as 46 million people are overweight in India. The
women's wear segment for plus size clothing is expected to reach US$ 22.3 billion by 2017. According to a
Technopak report, the plus size clothing category already contributes US$ 1.8 billion and is expected to
double by 2017. Previously, several international brands such as Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors have
been associated with full-figure fashion with dedicated lines.
Retailers like Lane Byrant and fashion houses like Forever 21 have invested a huge amount of money on the
plus size category. A year ago, Allen Solly, a brand of Madura Garments, introduced its jumbo range of 46
inch shirts and 50 inch trousers. This month, it plans to add the Big & Mighty range to its Louis Philippe
and Van Heusen brands.

19. Discuss on the structural design of a garment for a physically challenged person.
20. Write a brief note on designing of apparels on elderly clothing.