HA LONG BAY CLIMBING

Collected material from Ha Long Bay

climbing pioneers and ongoing developments.
2 INTRODUCTION

In the summer of 2015, Asia Outdoors Asia Outdoors welcomes suggestions,

began compiling a new rock climbing critiques or new material to add to this
guide for Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and document. Please direct any corre-
Cat Ba Island. The author and edi- spondence to:
tors soon realised including all known info@asiaoutdoors.com.vn
developed areas would require more
than one book. Concerns were also Photo credits: If not specified other-
raised regarding inclusion of areas with wise, photos are taken by climbers
old, deeply corroded bolts and anchors. listed as the sector’s FA.
Ultimately, a decision was made to
include Sport Climbing and DWS areas
easily reached as part of a one-day
excursion from Cat Ba Island.

This raised a question regarding what

to do with notes concerning many other
crags throughout Ha Long Bay. Instead
of simply archiving history and beta, all
additional known crag information was
compiled into a single PDF to be made
freely available.

This document contains all the infor-

mation gathered through the process Asia Outdoors | Luca De Giorgi

of building the 2016 Asia Outdoors HA LONG BAY CLIMBING

rock climbing guidebook that was not A rock climbing and deep water soloing
ultimately included in the book. guide of Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island

Crags contained in this document have

been bolted over the years by various
individuals and expeditions. Some
crags’ names have been updated, with
To find out more about the Asia Outdoors
consultation, due to confusion created rock climbing guidebook, visit:
by duplicate names or new information www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn
regarding location. These include
Jellyfish Crag/All Swell That End Swell,
Chopstick Island/The Corkscrew, and
Polish Pillar/Hon Dua.

Many crags need rebolting before

being safe to climb again. Please be
aware that, for some of these areas,
there is very little information recorded.
Therefore, this document may contain
errors.
ASIA OUTDOORS GUIDEBOOK 3

The 2016 Asia Outdoors climbing - Streak of Lightning

guidebook contains detailed information 1 climb, 7c
about sport climbing and DWS in the - Dark Horse
following areas on Cat Ba Island and in 15 climbs, 4 to 7b
the surrounding bays: - Calvin Climb
5 climbs, 5a to 7c
DEEP WATER SOLOING: - Cathedral Rock
- Hawaii 5-0 11 climbs, 4+ to 7c
13 climbs, 5c to 7b - 400 Fahrenheit
- Crag X 19 climbs, 5+ to 7c
5 climbs, 6a to 6c
- Three Brothers SPORT CLIMBING ON CAT BA:
17 climbs, 4+ to 7c - Butterfly Valley.
- Tung Thit 50 climbs, 4+ to 8a
16 climbs, 6a to 7b - The Cave
- Jellyfish Wall 6 climbs, 5c to 7a
15 climbs, 4+ to 7a - The Farm
- Andy Cave 8 climbs, 5b to 7b
9 climbs, 6a to 6c - Ben Beo
- Never Never Land 10 climbs, 6a to 7c
13 climbs, 5 to 7c
- Jurassic Park SPORT CLIMBING IN THE BAY:
7 climbs, 5 to 7c - Moody Beach
- Unemployment Wall 6 climbs, 4+ to 6b
8 climbs, 6a to 7b - Tiger Beach
- Hon Dua 13 climbs, 5b to 7c
7 climbs, 5c to 7a - Pirate’s Belly
- Pyramid Cave 3 climbs, 5b-7a
7 climbs, 6a to 7c - The Face
- Stingray Wall 3 climbs, 7a to 7c
12 climbs, 5b to 7b - Amphitheatre
- Bond Bastic 6 climbs, 6a to 8a
5 climbs, 6b to 7b - Saigon Wall
- Band Tastic 3 climbs, 7a
5 climbs, 6a to 7b - Jules Verne’s World
- Hang Ha Cave 4 climbs, 7a to 8a
10 climbs, 5a to 7b - Polish Pillar
- Le Mekong 1947 3 climbs, 6a to 7c
9 climbs, 6b to 7c
- Fishermen’s Way
8 climbs, 5c to 7b
- Gingerbread
11 climbs, 5 to 6c
- Monster Face
3 climbs, 7a to 7b
4 DISCLAIMER

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous

sport. Your use of this document indicates
your understanding of the risk of serious injury
or death as a result of rock climbing or deep
water soloing and is an acknowledgement
of your responsibility for your own climbing
safety while climbing in Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha
bay, and Cat Ba Island.

This document only provides information

about climbs in the area. It is not an
instructional book and cannot replace proper
training by a qualified teacher.

The author, editors, and Asia Outdoors accept

no liability for injuries, death, or damage
caused to or by climbers or any third party.
Please use the information in this document
in conjunction with your personal judgment
and experience. Also note that the content
of this book is approximated and may not be
verified, accurate, or up to date. We strongly
recommend climbers visit the Asia Outdoors
office for up to date information on climbing
areas and routes.

By using this document and the information

it contains, you agree to everything written in
this disclaimer.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 5

Thanks to the climbing pioneers, who put Ha

Long Bay on climbers maps and contributed
to research for the present document: Lee
Cujes, Dave Lucas, Greg Child, Lynn Hill, Neil
Gresham, Scott Milton, Tim Emmett, Helmut
Gargitter, Michael Thaler, Peter Braito, Chris
Johnson, Jean Verly and to all the other
passionate climbers who explored Ha Long
Bay.

My excuses and thanks to all those I am

forgetting to mention here.
6

31
1
32

3
4
5 6

7
8
10

11
12

13 14
15
16

17
18
19 20
21

27
22
23
25 24
28 29
30

26

2015 Google Earth map data: Google, DigitalGlobe,

CNES/Astrium, TerraMetrics.
INDEX 7
1. LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA)
5 sport climbs, 6b to 7b.
2. HAI NON
6 sport climbs, 6a to 7b.
3. 400 FAHRENHEIT WALL
19 DWS lines, 5+ to 7c.
4. CATHEDRAL ROCK
9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.
5. SUPA TUFA WALL
5 DWS lines, 5+ to 7b.
6. DARK HORSE
15 DWS lines, 4+ to 7b.
7. KELVIN CLIMB 33
3 DWS lines, 6a to 7c.
8. CRUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE
5 DWS lines 5+ to 6c.
9. YEN NGUA (LULWORTH II)
2 DWS lines, 7b+
10. MONKEY CAVE
9 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.
11. TAXI GIRL (HANG TIEN ONG)
8 sport climbs, 6b to 8a.
12. SILVER CAVE (HANG TIEN ONG)
Several DWS lines, 6b and harder.
13. BOND BASTIC and HANC CA CAVE
9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.
14. MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE
3 DWS lines, 5+ to 6a.
15. HANG DU (TURTLE CAVE, ARCHWAY)
2 DWS lines, 7a to 7c.
16. WALHALL ISLAND
1 trad line, 60 m, Brit. E5 6b.
17. THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
6 DWS lines, 6a to 7b.
18. JURASSIC PARK
13 DWS lines, 5 to 7c.
19. CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND)
1 mixed line, 40 m, 5a
20. WITCHE’S NOSE
5 DWS lines, 6a to 7a.
21. TUNG THIT
16 climbs, 6a to 7b.
22. BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA) 28. FISHERMAN’S WAY
3 trad lines, 4+ to 6a. 18 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.
23. VAN BOI TRUNG 29. SHALLOW GRAVE
5 sport lines, 5c to 6c. 2 DWS lines, 6a
24. THE BLACK SLAB 30. ALL SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL
1 trad line, 5a. 8 DWS lines, 5 to 7b
25. TIGER’S CORNER 31. CERRO TORRE
1 trad line, 5b. 13 sport climbs, 6a to 8a.
26. TON NUOC 32. LAUGHING DOG WALL
1 trad line, 6c. 22 sport climbs, 5b to 7c.
27. THE FACE 33. LA PLAGE DES PIRATES
3 climbs, 7a to 7c. 15 spot lines, 6a to 8a.
8 LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA)

GPS: 20°53’59.79”N 107° 1’9.65”E

1. Vampire State Building 6a, 6c, 7b

2. Eliza.kom 6c+
3. Shaman the Great, 7a
4. Bum Bum Massage, 6b
5. Miss Halong, 7a+, Helmut Gargitter, Thaler Michael, Bartholomäus Rindler, 2005

Source: Grimper no. 81, http://www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

 9

Above left: Greg

Child in Luy Tam Biet,
source: ‘The Face, six
great climbing adven-
tures’, BBC, Richard
Else and Brian Hall

Above right: Helmut

Gargitter in Luy Tam
Biet, source: Helmut
Gargitter.

Left: Lut Tam Biet

Wall, source: Pano-
ramio.
10 HAI NON

GPS: 20°52’19.55”N 107° 2’33.96”E

Sport climbing at low tide.

1. Three-pitch climb (6a+, 6c+, 6b+)

2. Five single pitch sport climbs from 6a+ to 7b
Hard grading and sparsely bolted

By M. Thaler, B. Rindler und H. Gargitter in 2005

Source: Michael Thaler

2
1
11
 12 400 FAHRENHEIT AREA

Climbing on 400° Fahrenheit was first recorded in 2012 by Dave Lucas and the
Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Alex Twist, Dave Lucas, Dan
Webber, Sam Harvie, Vu Nguyen and Ruth Murdie.
400°$Fahrenheit$Area$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! 400!faces!east!and!Cathedral!rock!faces!NE!
!
Tidal$considerations! There!is!loads!of!water!under!400!and!is!a!better!wall!at!low!tide!as!the!routes!are!
extended.!This!is!why!some!of!the!routes!have!grade!at!low!tide!(LT)!and!high!tide!
(HT).! Cathedral! does! have! a! shelf! and! depth! needs! to! be! checked! if! climbing! at!
medium!to!low!tide.! !
! !
Grade$overview!
Location$!! ! ! 5+!–!7c+!
! 400°!Fahrenheit!wall! 20°51'46.50"N! ! 107°!3'10.97"E!
! ! ! ! ! Cathedral!Rock! ! 20°51'38.90"N! ! 107°!3'16.19"E!
The$routes$
!
!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall!
24. Flambé! ! ! HT! **! 6c! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
LT! **! 6c+! 16m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
25. Fire!&!Rice!! ! HT! *! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
26. Molten!brambly!apple! HT!! ! 6b+! 9m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
27. Lava!Falls!! ! LT! ***! 6c!! 16m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
28. Lava!Java! ! LT! *! 7a! 16m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
29. That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! *! 6a! 16m!! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
30. Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
32. Thrush! ! ! HT! *! 7a! 12m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
Scratching!the!itch! LT! **! Project!! 16m!
33. Toasty! ! ! LT! ***! 7a+/7b! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
N/B!try!the!bread!and!cheese!dyno!start!(Vu!Nguyen)!
34. Crème!brûlée! ! LT! **! 7a+! 11m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
HT! ! 7a!
35. Pop!Tart!! ! LT! ***! 7a+! 14m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
36. Ring!of!fire! ! HT! ***! 7c+! 14m! Vu!Nguyen! ! 19/11/12!
37. To!the!shrubbery!and!beyond.! **! 7a! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12! 28
38. I!poke!badgers!with!hot!spoons.! *! 7b! 11m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
39. Baked!Alaska.! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 19/11/12!
40. Vanuatu.! ! ! ! 5+! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
!
! 41. I!fight!cats!in!flaming!loincloths.! ! 6b+! 7m! Sam!Harvie! ! 20/11/12!
42. Goat!man! !
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!7c+!
! ! 6b! 8m! Dan!Webber! ! 20/11/12!
! !
Cathedral$Rock$
The$routes$
! 1. Fragile!Earth! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
2. The!church!mouse!!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall! ! *! 6a!S1! 6m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
3. 24.Evolution!
Flambé! ! ! ! !! HT! ***!
**! 7c!6c! 8m!
14m! Charles!Darwin!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
4. Intelligent!design!! ! LT! ***!
**! 7a!!
6c+! 16m!16m! Chris!Hitchens!
Dave!Lucas! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
5. 25.Leap!from!faith!
Fire!&!Rice!! ! ! ! HT! ***!
*! 7a!
6b! 15m!
14m! Alex!Twist!
Dan!Webber! ! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
6. 26.Higgs!Boson! !
Molten!brambly!apple! ! HT!! **!! 7a!
6b+! 15m!!
9m! Prof!Brian!Cox!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
7. 27.The!Godfather!
Lava!Falls!! ! ! ! LT! *!***! 7a! 6c!! 14m!
16m! Alex!Twist!
Dan!Webber! ! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
8. 28.The!God!Delusion!
Lava!Java! ! ! ! LT! **!*! 7a!
7a! 15m!
16m! Richard!Dawkins!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
9. 29.I!have!more!faith!in!a!shadow!
That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! ! *! 6b!
6a! 12m!
16m!! Ferdinand!Magellan!
Dave!Lucas! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
30.The!route!goes!up!dirty!corner!right!of!line!on!topo!and!then!steps!round!the!arête.!
Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
! 31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
 extended.!This!is!why!some!of!the!routes!have!grade!at!low!tide!(LT)!and!high!tide!
(HT).! Cathedral! does! have! a! shelf! and! depth! needs! to! be! checked! if! climbing! at!
medium!to!low!tide.!
! 13
Location$!! ! ! 400°!Fahrenheit!wall! 20°51'46.50"N! ! 107°!3'10.97"E!
! ! ! ! Cathedral!Rock! ! 20°51'38.90"N! ! 107°!3'16.19"E!
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall!
24. Flambé! ! ! HT! **! 6c! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
LT! **! 6c+! 16m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
25. Fire!&!Rice!! ! HT! *! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
26. Molten!brambly!apple! HT!! ! 6b+! 9m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
27. Lava!Falls!! ! LT! ***! 6c!! 16m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
28. Lava!Java! ! LT! *! 7a! 16m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
29. That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! *! 6a! 16m!! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
30. Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
32. Thrush! ! ! HT! *! 7a! 12m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
Scratching!the!itch! LT! **! Project!! 16m!
33. Toasty! ! ! LT! ***! 7a+/7b! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
N/B!try!the!bread!and!cheese!dyno!start!(Vu!Nguyen)!
34. Crème!brûlée! ! LT! **! 7a+! 11m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
HT! ! 7a!

28
14

!
 15
!

400° FAHRENHEIT
1. FLAMBÉ - 6c (HT); 6c+ (LT)
2. FIRE AND RICE - 6b (HT)
3. MOLTEN BRAMBLY APPLE - 6b+ (HT)
4. LAVA FALLS - 6c (LT)
5. LAVA JAVA - 7a (LT)
6. THAT’S NOT A BURNING BUSH - 6a (LT)
7. SUN SCREAM - 6b (HT)
8. BAN MARIE - 6b+/6c
9. THRUSH - 7a (HT)
10. TOASTY - 7a+/7b (LT)
11. CRÈME BRÛLÉE - 7a+ (LT); 7a (HT)
12. POP TART - 7a+ (LT)
13. RING OF FIRE - 7c+ (HT)
14. TO THE SHRUBBERY AND BEYOND - 7a
15. I POKE BADGERS WITH HOT SPOONS - 7b
16. BAKED ALASKA - 6a
17. VANUATU - 5+
18. I FIGHT CATS IN FLAMING LOINCLOTHS - 6b+
19. GOAT MAN - 6b
 16 CATHEDRAL ROCK (Lion’s Face)

Climbing on Cathedral Rock, aka Lion’s Face, was first recorded

by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, and Seb Grieve in
2003. The crag was further explored in 2012 by Dave Lucas and The
Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Neil Gresham,
Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Ruth Murdie, Charles Darwin, Alex Twist,
and Ferdinand Magellan.

GPS: 20°51’38.90”N 107° 3’16.19”E

1. FRAGILE EARTH - 4+ 8. THE QUIET AMERICAN - 6b+

2. THE CHURCH MOUSE - 6a aka God Delusion
A. ZARATHUSTRA - 7c+ B. GOLDEN TRIANGLE - 7a
3. EVOLUTION - 7c 9. I HAVE MORE FAITH IN A SHADOW - 6b
4. ARACHNOPHOBIA - 7b
aka Intelligent Design.
5. TARANTULA - 7b
aka Leap of Faith.
6. TUG BOAT - 7a
aka Higgs Boson.
7. EYELESS IN CAT BA - 6c
aka The Godfather.

A
!
 ! 17
!

B
!
18 SUPA TUFA WALL

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

Supa$Tufa$Wall$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!not!exposed!to!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!hard!to!access!at!
lower!tides.!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°51'16.27"N! 107°!5'50.85"E! !
! ! ! ! !
Grade$overview!
! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!
!
The$routes$
1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!
3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!
4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!
$

5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!

!
$

8
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!
!
The$routes$
1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!
3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!
4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!
5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
!
!
19
20 DARK HORSE AREA

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

Dark$Horse$Area$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! Faces!south.!
! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! Faces!northwest!through!to!northeast.!
! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle$$ Faces!northwest.!
$
Tidal$considerations! All!should!be!considered!a!high!tide!crag,!but!can!be!managed!at!lower!tides!with!depth!
checking.!Be!aware!of!a!shelf!to!the!left!(when!facing)!of!Vajazzel!on!Kelvin!Climb.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! 20°50'11.95"N! 107°!6'39.55"E!
! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! 20°49'47.91"N! 107°!6'47.40"E!
! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle! 20°49'43.77"N! 107°!6'46.23"E!
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
Dark$Horse$
9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!
10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!
11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
 21
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
Dark$Horse$
9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!
10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!
11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
13. Stick!or!twist! ! ! **! 6c! 10m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
Submerged!ledge!here!
14. Corner!Store! ! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
15. Arete.!don’t!shoot! ! **!! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 11/12/12!
16. Photo!shoot! ! ! **! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!
17. Cheat! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 8m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
18. Pré!Vu! ! ! ! ***! 7a+! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 12/11/12!
19. Déjà!Vu! ! ! ! **! 7b+! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!

20. Dark!Horse! ! ! ***! 7a! 15m! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12!

21. Leading!Line! ! ! **! 6a+! 30m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
22. Ivana!Humpalot! ! ! ! 4+! 12m! Eva!Rhode! 12/11/12!
23. Rovers!Return! ! ! ! 4!S1! 10m!Ruth!Murdie!! 12/11/12!
!
Crumble$in$the$jungle$
7. Crunch!your!nuts!! ! ! 6a! 8m! Russel! ! 12/11/12!
8. Cheerios!! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!
9. Enema! ! ! ! ! 6a+! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
10. Snap!crackle!and!plop! ! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
11. Shredded!feet! ! ! ! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
12. Crunchy!! ! ! *!! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
13. Flake! ! ! ! ! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
14. Mike! ! ! ! ! 5! 6m!! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12! !
!
Kelvin$Climb$
1. Vajazzel!! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
2. Brazilian!! ! ! **! 6c! 9m! Dan!Webber! 13/11/12!
3. Kelvin!Climb! ! ! ***! 7c+! 9m! Vu!Nguyen! 13/11/12!
Extension!from!ledge!is!6b!for!a!further!12!m! Vu!Nguyen!13/11/12!
4. ?! Blue !Eyed Scissors,
! ! 5a ! ! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
5. ?! Water! Monkey, ! 5a ! ! ! ?! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
!
 22
! $
$ $ $ $
 23
$
$
 24

4
5

$
$ $
25
26 YEN NGUA aka LULWORTH II

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar.

GPS: 20°51’22.16”N 107° 6’11.76”E

1)    Nietzche Had it, 7b+, Tim Emmett

2)    Rockin the Cat Ba, 7b+, Neil Gresham
27
28 MONKEY CAVE

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012

GPS: 20°49’33.03”N 107° 6’12.12”E

Monkey  Cave  
GPS      
Aspect     North  
Tide       Climbable  only  at  high  tide  and  even  at  HT  water  depth  was  only  just  over  2.5m  in  
depth.    
Swell       Sheltered  but  prone  to  wash  from  speed  boats  
Notes   Project  –  The  cave  lip  was  climbed  as  a  hand  traverse  from  left  to  right,  but  the  climber  stopped  
5  moves  from  the  right  side  due  to  sharp  rock  the  climbing  to  that  point  was  graded  XXX.  
Routes  
 
1. Monkey  spunk       6a+   9m   16/11/14   Matthew  Kerfoot  
2. Bab-­‐BOOM       5+   11m   16/11/14   Dan  Webber  
3. *Monkey  Around     5+   9m   16/11/14   Alex  Twist  
4. Banana  Fingers     5+   9m   16/11/14   Jon  Thorne  
5. Northern  Monkey     6b+   9m   16/11/14   Tom  Booth  
6. **Monkey  See  Monkey  Vu   7b+   9m   16/11/14   Vu  Nguyen  
7. *King  of  the  swingers     6a+   9m     16/11/14   Dan  Webber  
8. 75  to  go       5   9m     16/11/14   Matthew  Kerfoot  
9. Monkey  King  Baa     6a   9m   16/11/14   Thierry  Buermann  
 
29
30 TAXI GIRL, HANG TIEN ONG

GPS: 20°48’59.00”N 107° 7’20.00”E

Source: Grimper no. 81,

www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

Source: Panoramio
31
32 BOND BASTIC

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

Hang$Ca$Cave$and$Bond$Bastic$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! Bond!bastic!faces!east!and!Hang!Ca!Cave!faces!west!
!
Tidal$considerations! Both!were!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!at!low!tide.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Bond!Bastic!! 20°48'12.03"N! 107°!5'58.31"E!
! ! ! ! Hang!Ca!Cave! 20°48'0.74"N! 107°!5'49.15"E!
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c!
!
st
The$routes$(Which$are$in$addition$to$the$ones$in$the$1 $edition$guidebook)$
!
!

Bond$Bastic$
6. Sky!Fall! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!
7. Shaken!not!stirred! ! !! **! 6c! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!
8. A!Vu!to!a!kill! !! ! ***! 7c! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
!
Hang$Ca$Cave$
1. Vu!luptuous! ! ! *! 7b! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
2. Ratatouille! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! 10/11/12!
3. Pretentious!naming! ! ! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 10/11/12!
4. Linguistic!exuberance! ! ! 6b! 11m! Dan!Webber! 10/11/12!
5. A!bridge!Tu]fa! ! ! **! 7b+! 10m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
This!climbs!along!the!cave!roof!on!tufas!to!the!double!holed!one!where!a!project!continues!up!to!the!tree.
6. A!hole!lot!of!love!! ! *!! 6b! 14m! Sam!Harvie! 10/11/12! !
 HANG CA CAVE 33

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012 and 2014.
GPS: 20 48’0.74”N 107 5’49.15”E

Hang  Ca  Cave  

Aspect     South  West  
Tide       Climbable  at  low  tide,  though  access  to  the  right  hand  routes  becomes  more  difficult.  
Access  to  the  crag  at  high  tide  is  possible  by  basket  boat,  though  requires  careful  navigation  through  
the  cave.    
Swell       Very  sheltered  lagoon  with  very  calm  waters.  
Notes   The  cave  is  popular  with  tourists  in  kayak  
s,  and  they  will  need  diverting  away  from  drop  zones.  Noise  should  be  kept  to  a  minimum  to  avoid  
disturbing  monkeys  around  the  lagoon.  It  is  possible  to  access  routes  via  kayak  or  basket  boats  with  the  
engines  turned  off  if  police  ask  you  to  move  on.  
 

 
 
 
1.     Vu  Luptutous     7b   16m   *   10/11/12   Vu  Nguyen  
2.   Little  Tiddler     6b   7m     14/11/14   Tom  Booth  
3.   Loony  Tunes     5+   7m     ??     ??    
4.   Bass  Ackwards     6b(S2)   11m     ??     ??  
5.   Kes       6c(S1)   17m   **   14/11/14   Alex  Twist  
6.   Best  Bib  and  Tucker   6a+   11m   *   ??     ??  
7.     Shangri  La     7c(S2)   19m   ***   14/11/14   Ben  Heason  
8.   Ratatouille     5+   6m     10/11/12   Ruth  Murdie  
9.   Pretentious  Naming   6b   10m   *   10/11/12   Dave  Lucas  
10.   Linguistic  Exuberance  6b+   10m     10/11/12   Dan  Webber  
11.   A  Bridge  Tufa     7b+   10m   **   10/11/12   Vu  Nguyen  
  Boulders  out  of  the  cave  on  large  stalactites.  Finish  at  tufa  with  two  holes.  
12.   Bat  Mobile     7b   12m     ??     ??  
13.   Good  Recovery   6c   10m     14/11/14   Dan  Webber  
.! 14.   Whole  Lotta  Love   6b   14m   *   10/12/14   Sam  Harvie  
 
   
34 MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE

Mike$&$Eva’s$Cave$
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!quite!exposed!and!may!get!swell!the!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!access!
the!cave!roof!at!lower!tides.!This!is!a!high!tide!venue!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°48'5.05"N! 107°!7'47.65"E!
! ! ! !
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!Project!!
!
The$routes$
1. Mực! ! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
2. Cá! ! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
3. Cơm! ! ! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
The!main!draw!to!this!venue!will!be!the!roof!of!the!cave,!it!is!very!close!to!Turtle!cave!and!is!worth!a!visit!but!does!not!
have!much!more!potential!then!that.!We!do!not!have!an!image!for!the!crag!
!

!
HANG DU aka ARCHWAY, TURTLE CAVE 35

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar.

GPS: 20°47’50.85”N 107° 8’10.41”E

 
1)    HO CHI MINH 7c+, Neil Gresham

Carolyn Conant on Hang Du. Pic by Jake Squier

36 WALHALLA ISLAND

WALHALLA ISLAND - ‘Boat People’

FA: Greg Child & Andy Parkin
GPS: 20°47’30.94”N 107° 6’54.83”E

Source: ‘The Face, six great climbing adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall
 37

Left: Greg Child and Andy Parkin on ‘Boat

People’, source: ‘The Face, six great climbing
adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall

Below: Walhalla Island, source: LDG.

38 THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.

GPS: 20°47’8.19”N 107° 6’14.25”

The  Land  that  Time  Forgot  (left)  

Aspect     South  
Tide       Left  side  of  the  wall  can  be  accessed  easily  at  any  tide,  the  rest  of  the  wall  is  easier  at  
high  tide.  The  water  has  plenty  of  depth.  
Swell       The  wall  would  be  exposed  to  southerly  swell.  
Notes    
Routes  
1. The  Serpent         7a+   **   13m   18/11/14     Vu  Nguyen  
2. Finger  surgery         6b+   **   8m   20/11/14   Tom  Booth  
 

 
 
   
 39

The  Land  that  Time  Forgot  (right)  

Aspect     West  
Tide       No  complications  due  to  the  tide.  
Swell       The  wall  would  be  exposed  to  southerly  swell.  
Notes    
Routes  
1. On  the  wing         6a+   *   9m   19/11/14     Jon  Thorne  
 

 
40 THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT

The  Land  that  Time  Forgot  (central)  

Aspect     West  
Tide       No  complications  due  to  the  tide.  
Swell       The  wall  would  be  exposed  to  southerly  swell.  
Notes    
Routes  
1. Scrabble       7a     11m     20/11/14   Ben  Heason  
2. Artful  Dodger     7b   *   9m     20/11/14   Vu  Nguyen  
3. Rock  out  w  your  cock  out   6b+   *   9m     20/11/14   Andrew  Bishop  
 

 
 
   
 JURASSIC PARK 41

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012

GPS: 20°47’8.87”N 107° 6’15.55”E

Jurassic  Park  main  wall  

Aspect      
Tide       Best  suited  to  mid  -­‐  high  tides  too  shallow  for  very  low  tides.  
Swell       Relatively  calm  compared  to  Jelly  Fish  Crag,  but  does  see  some  slight  swell.  
Notes   Some  of  the  early  routes  finish  on  very  sharp  rock,  for  added  enjoyment.  
 
Routes  
1. Sick  Boy       6b   *   15m     Dan  Webber     19/11/14  
2. L.O.W.G.       6b   **   12m     Julian  Ganton     19/11/14  
3. Baby  Spiller       6c   ***   15m       Tom  Booth       19/11/14  
4. B.  E.  A.  UTIFUL     7c+   ***   17m     Vu  Nguyen     19/11/14  
5. Back  Flip  for  Glory     6c+   ***   17m     Dan  Webber     20/11/14  
Note  –  First  ascentionist  back  flipped  from  the  finishing  holds,  which  is  required  for  the  full  
tick  but  is  definitely  NOT  recommended!  
6. Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade   6c   ***     18m     Alex  Twist     20/11/14  
7. Bread  Knife  Traverse     5     12m     Matthew  Kerfoot   20/11/14  
 

 
 
42

Jurassic  Park  inner  wall  

Aspect     North  
Tide       No  complications  with  low  tide.  
Swell        
Notes  
Routes  
1. Battery  Drain         7a   *   15m     19/11/14     Ben  Heason  
 

 
 
 43

Jurassic  Park  left  end  

Aspect     East  
Tide       No  complications  due  to  low  tide  
Swell        
Notes    
Routes  
1. Energy  Crisis     6c   *   17m     19/11/14     Ben  Heason  
2. Happy  Masseur   6a+     11m     19/11/14     Alex  Twist  
3. Berocca     6a   *   9m     20/11/14     Matthew  Kerfoot  
4. Jump  Face     6a+   *   17m     21/11/14     Andrew  Bishop  
 

 
 
44 THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND)

rappel thread

Source: LDG

THE CORKSCREW - ‘Faith No More’

FA: Erik Ferjentsik - 2008
GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E

40 m, 11 Bolts, Mixed, 5a

Very fun and run out crag access route in anticipation of more routes on the north-west faces.
It’s all about the view from the top here. Start at an extended base easy to jump from your
boat to. Scramble up into the cave area with really friendly featured white rock for the first bolt.
Traverse left to avoid the overhang and into a dihedral and then right around the arete to the
face. The anchor is six meters below the summit.

Notes from Gavi Piper:

Climbed 12/2015. Found eight bolts, not including anchors, although vegetation could easily
hide more. On visual inspection the first bolt shows minor surface rust and all others appear to
be in good condition. Long slings will help with heavy rope drag. Rappel from the anchor rings;
if using a single rope, there’s a good thread just below a small cave about half way down to
climber’s right.
THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND) - DWS 45

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.

GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E

Notes   The  cave  is  popular  with  tourists  in  kayaks,  and  they  will  need  diverting  away  from  drop  zones.  
Noise  should  be  kept  to  a  minimum  to  avoid  disturbing  monkeys  around  the  lagoon.  It  is  possible  to  
access  routes  via  kayak  or  basket  boats  with  the  engines  turned  off  if  police  ask  you  to  move  on.  
 
Hon  Dua  (Chopstick  Island)  
Aspect     North    
Tide       The  walls  are  very  exposed  to  strong  tidal  currents  and  although  it  was  first  climbed  at  
high  tide  the  depth  was  deeper  then  3.5m    
Swell         Exposed  to  the  main  channel,  which  runs  north  to  south.  
Notes     There  are  two  bolted  lines  on  the  face,  but  there  is  no  info  on  these  routes.  Two  further  
projects  possible  through  the  main  roof.  
Routes  
 
1. Hamsters  Cheeks     5+     6m   David  Wear   13/11/14  
2. Force  fed       6a+     6m   Alex  Twist   13/11/14  
3. Kellogs  start       5+     6m   David  Wear   13/11/14  
 

 
 
 
   
46 WITCHES NOSE

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

The$Witches$Nose$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!exposed!to!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!climb!
onto!at!low!tide.!Consider!placing!etriers!at!high!tide!to!allow!access!at!low!tide.!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°46'46.09"N! 107°!8'6.41"E! !
!
! ! ! !
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!
!
Left$
1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!
Central$–$The$nose$
2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
!
Right$
4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!
!

!
!
! 2
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!
!
Left$
1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!
Central$–$The$nose$
2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
!
Right$
4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!
!
!
47
$
$ $ $
$ $
48 TUNG THIT Tung$Thit$(opposite$the$amphitheater$crag)$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!cliff!is!a!SE!face!
Recorded
! by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
Tidal$considerations! This!is!a!high!tide!crag!for!DWS!and!care!should!be!taken!on!a!retreating!tide
Tung$Thit$(opposite$the$amphitheater$crag)$
There!is!also!a!rock!under!route!13!
! !
Location$!!
Aspect! ! ! ! ! ! The!cliff!is!a!SE!face!
20°46'42.44"N! ! 107°!3'52.07"E!
! !
Tidal$considerations! This!is!a!high!tide!crag!for!DWS!and!care!should!be!taken!on!a!retreating!tide.!
There!is!also!a!rock!under!route!13!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°46'42.44"N! ! 107°!3'52.07"E!
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!]!7b!
!
The$routes$
! !
1. Vu!do! ! ! ! **! 7b!S1!
! 11m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
2. Diamond!Falcon!Supersonic!!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!]!7b! **! 6b! 14m! !Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
! 3. Could!be!good!! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
4. If!you!can!be!bothered!! !
The$routes$ ! 6c!! 9m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
! 5. Fagin! ! ! ! *! 7a! 7m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
6. Lamb!chop!
1. Vu!do! ! ! ! ! ! **! **! 7b!S1!7a! 11m! 15m!! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
7. Mint!sauce!
2. Diamond!Falcon!Supersonic!!! ! **! *! 6b! 6c! 14m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
8. Slot!Machine!
3. Could!be!good!! ! ! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 6c! 9m! 7m!Sam!Harvie!
Dan!Webber!08/11/12!
08/11/12!
Viii!extension!–!From!large!pocket!continue!to!flake!ledge!6c+!add!on!3m!Sam!Harvie!
4. If!you!can!be!bothered!! ! ! 6c!! 9m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
9. Phosphorescence!
5. Fagin! ! ! ! ! ! *! *! 7a! 6c! 7m! 11m! Dan!Webber!17/11/12!
Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
10. Where’s!Wally?!
6. Lamb!chop! ! ! ! ! **! ! 7a! 6a! 15m!! 8m!Sam!Harvie!
Dan!Webber!08/11/12!
08/11/12!
11. Green!sleeves!
7. Mint!sauce! ! ! ! ! *! **! 6c! 6b+!15m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
12. Green!&!pleasant!land!
8. Slot!Machine! ! ! ! *! *! 6c! 6a+!7m! 15m! Dave!Lucas! 08/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 17/11/12!
13. Got!to!pick!a!pocket!or!Tufa! **! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist!
Viii!extension!–!From!large!pocket!continue!to!flake!ledge!6c+!add!on!3m!Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
14. Postman!Pat!!
9. Phosphorescence! ! ! ! *! *! 6c! 6c! 11m! 11m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 17/11/12!
15. Hob!Goblin! !
10. Where’s!Wally?! ! ! ! ! **! 6a! 6c! 8m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 08/11/12!
16. Vu’s!ledge!end!
11. Green!sleeves! ! ! ! ! **! *! 6b+! 7a! 15m! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
12. Green!&!pleasant!land! ! *! 6a+! 15m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
13. Got!to!pick!a!pocket!or!Tufa! **! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
14. Postman!Pat! ! ! *! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
 $
!

49

e.!
50 BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA)

Source: LDG

BIG BEN N WALL - ‘The Gunpowder Plot’

FA: Dave Lucas and Ruth Murdie - 15/11/12
GPS: 20°45’57.91”N 107° 5’0.34”E

E1 4a, 4b, 4c, 4c. 10 m, 25 m, 40 m, 15 m. Scramble from the boat up the initial 10 m and find
a hanging belay. Then follow the topo to the top. Most of the climbing is on sharp grey rock.
So even though the climbing is easy it it important no to fall for risk of injury and or cutting the
rope. The last 8 m to the summit have no protection available.
 51

Source: LDG

BIG BEN SW WALL

1| ‘Westminster’ - FA: Alex Twist and Dan Webber - 5/11/2012

E1 4b, 4c, 5a, 4a, 5a. 6 m, 15 m, 15 m, 8 m, 50 m.
2| ‘Clockworks’ - FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
Scramble up 6 m to the cave and set up the first anchor. Climb 40 m of 5b to the next anchor
and then 65 m to the top, beautiful crack in the first 10 m.

From the top rappel 60 m and then 10 m more to the boat.

52 VAN BOI TRONG

GPS: 20° 45.599’N 107° 4.679’E

Renate, 5c. Behind the left corner. Andreas Unterkalmsteiner.

Mu, 6a. Thomas Hochkofler.
Figgluise, 6c. Peter Braito.
Emma, 6a+. Roman Stuefer.
Schiff AHOI, 6b+, Klaus Kofler.

Bolted in 2008.

Bolts are heavily rusted and

not safe to climb until rebolted.
Climbing at your own risk!
53
54 THE BLACK SLAB

Source: LDG

THE BLACK SLAB - ‘Ross’s Closed Project’

FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
GPS: 20°45’26.80”N 107° 4’44.00”E

Location: Solitary island 1 km northwest of Tiger Beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5a. Gear: Slings,
wires and one set of cams. Difficult access with choppy sea.
Rappel with two 60 m ropes to the start.
TIGER’S CORNER 55

Source: LDG

TIGER’S CORNER - ‘What goes up must come down’

FA: Chris Johnson and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
GPS: 20°45’31.19”N 107° 3’54.59”E

Location: 300 m east of tiger beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5b. Gear: Slings, wires and one set of
cams. Rappel 30 m and 40 m to the bottom.
56 TON NUOC

TON NUOC - ‘Crisis averted’

FA: Chris Johnson & Calvin Tague - 2015
GPS: 20°43’9.77”N 107° 1’41.39”E

1. Pitch: 25 m, 6c
2. Pitch: 20 m, 5b

Located in a truly epic setting inside a cave within an island around a km offshore of Cat Ba
Town. Drive the basketboat through a cave opening on the northwest tip of the island and de-
light at the wonderous setting. This climb can be found half way up the slope on the right side.
And tops out through a small opening on the top of the island.

Bring slings, cams and nuts and a 60 m rope. Rappel down back into the cave.
THE FACE aka HAN’S ISLAND 57

1
2

THE FACE aka Hans Island

GPS: 20°46’8.26”N 107° 8’11.89”E

A beautiful triangular vertical wall, located above a boulder-beach on a small island.

This crag now features several bolted sport climbs, the first of which was Nightrider
(so named because it was climbed by head torch light on the first ascent)

1) Nightrider, 7b (Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, Neil Gresham)

2) Licence to climb, 7a (Erik Ferjentsik)
3) Extention, 7c (Lee Cujes)

Photo credits: Neil Gresham)

58 FISHERMAN’S WAY

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar and is also featured in Dosage Vol.III.

GPS: 20°45’17.61”N 107° 7’40.19”E

DAUBE (Saigon Wall)

 
1)    Charlie Don’t Surf, 5c, Grant Farquhar
2)    Ruff Guide to Vietnam, 7a+, Seb Grieve
3)    Napalm Morning, 7b  Neil Gresham
4)    Good Morning Vietnam, 7a+, Tim
5)    Apocalypse Now, 7a, Neil Gresham
6)    Never get out of the boat, 6c, Grant
7)    Platoon, 7a+, Neil Gresham
8)    Boat People, 7a, Tim Emmett
9)    N…n…n…n….ninteeen, 7a+, Neil Gresham
 FISHERMAN’S WAY - WEST 59

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

GPS: 20°45’17.51”N 107° 7’38.62”E

Fisherman’s$Way$R$West$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!south!and!is!exposed!to!swell!if!wind!is!southerly!or!westerly.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!
at!low!tide.!
Permission$ The!team!did!get!moved!on!by!the!police!and!paid!a!bribe!of!4!beers!(how!dare!
they)!for!their!efforts.!There!are!loads!more!routes!to!go!here.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Fisherman’s!Way!]!West!! 20°45'17.10"N! 107°!7'39.32"E!
! ! ! !
!

!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!6c+!(Project!will!go!at!7b+?)!
!
Confidence$Wall$
1. Patchwork!perfection! ! ! **! 6c! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!
2. Through!the!Ruth!!! ! ! **! 5!S1! 16m! Ruth!Murdie! 14/11/12!
!
Unlawful$disorder$wall$
3. Unlawful!disorder! ! ! ***! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!
!
Bribery$wall$
4. Rude!awakening! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Mike!Hutton! 14/11/12!
5. Bribery! ! ! ! ! ! 6b! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!
6. Corruption! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!
7. Fun!di!Mental! ! ! ! **! 6c+! 12m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!
8. Pink!Chalice! ! ! ! *!! 6b! 13m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!
9. The!wrestler!project! ! ! **!! 7b+?! ?! !
60

15
61
$ $
$ $
62 ALL IS SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL (Jelly Fish Crag)

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.

GPS: 20°45’4.21”N 107° 8’34.54”E

Jelly  Fish  crag  

Aspect     East  and  south  
Tide       Low  tide  leaves  0.5m  under  the  crag.  High  tide  is  required  and  is  advised  to  climb  2  
hours  either  side  of  HT.  first  ascents  climbed  on  a  3.5m  high  tide.  
Swell       Strong  winds  on  day  of  climbing  brought  in  swell  that  made  getting  onto  the  rock  more  
awkward.  
Notes     On  the  day  of  climbing  we  saw  no  jellyfish,  but  on  the  day  we  first  saw  the  crag  there  
were  three  lurking  in  the  depths.  
Routes  
1. Swell  Easy       5     8m     Jon  Thorne     13/11/14  
2. Rr         5+     8m     Dave  Lucas     13/11/14  
3. Vunami       7b+     9m     Vu  Nguyen     13/11/14  
4. Rr  
5. Ebb,  Swell  and  Flow   6b   *   13m     Tom  Booth     13/11/14  
6. Ducking  Swell     6b+   *   11m     Andy  Bishop     13/11/14  
7. Project  
8. Rr                 Alex  Twist     13/11/14  
9. Project  
 

 
 
   
SHALLOW GRAVE 63

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.

GPS: 20°45’17.81”N 107° 8’59.20”E

Shallow  Grave  
Aspect     East  and  south  
Tide       Low  tide  leaves  0.5m  under  the  crag.  High  tide  is  required  and  is  advised  to  climb  2  
hours  either  side  of  HT.  first  ascents  climbed  on  a  3.5m  high  tide.  
Swell       Strong  winds  on  day  of  climbing  brought  in  swell  that  made  getting  onto  the  rock  more  
awkward.  
Notes     On  the  day  of  climbing  we  saw  no  jellyfish,  but  on  the  day  we  first  saw  the  crag  there  
were  three  lurking  in  the  depths.  
Routes  
1. Same  ledge  different  man   6a+     13m   13/11/14   Dan  Webber      
2. Man  on  a  Ledge     6a+   *   13m     13/11/14     Andrew  Bishop  
 

 
 
   
64 CERRO TORRE

GPS: 20°54’9.23”N 107° 8’56.22”E

Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81
65
66 LAUGHING DOG WALL

GPS: 20°54’4.60”N 107°10’3.20”E

Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

The Laughing Dog Wall

is called after a tufa that
looks like a laughing
dog. Drawaing by Paul
Piana
HON MUC MUC, LA PLAGE DES PIRATES 67

GPS: 20°52’25.40”N 107°17’47.20”E

Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81