The Paddler
ended up as an early evening setting off. Ross could not leave on
Scottish Hostellers Canoe Club
Isle of Bute
Circumnavigation (almost) July 2008
Those in party:- Ron and Ross Young, Gerry Clifford, Neil
Hammond, Tom Patton.
Maps:- O.S. Landranger No’s 62 & 63.
Friday What should have been an early afternoon departure
the morning due to work commitments so everyone else elected to
arrive mid afternoon. There were further delays due to a wrong
turning at the Erskine Bridge then new boats being packed for the
first time and the usual fault of having too much gear. Ron and I
being better organised managed to get afloat a little before Gerry
and Neil and as we sat waiting were blown westwards by a
freshening wind towards the south end of Great Cumbrae.
I had scouted the leaving point at Largs Marina,(208 577) a few
weeks previously and had been given permission by the marina to
leave our cars behind the barrier which we did and I managed to
purchase a very fine fish and chips to “take away” from Nardini’s
Moorings restaurant. Recommended. As I awaited the arrival of the
others. Anyway, we finally got afloat about half past six at about
the turn of the tide, so with the ebb and the wind we headed for
Clashfarland Point. Ron and I rafted up and set the sail. We could
not see any of the rest of the party but assumed they were directly
behind us. This notion was dispelled by the arrival of Ross who
informed us that Gerry and Neil were heading north about and
would meet us at Kilchattan Bay on Bute.
By this time it was getting cold, with rain showers falling from an
overcast sky and quite a sea running from the east. Once we neared
the shore we got some relief from the ore terminal but this didn’t
last long and we were soon fighting our way across Millport Bay.
The drop in windspeed brought more rain and after some
consultation with the map we hoped to find a suitable campsite
near Portachur point which coincidentally was close to an hotel.
Unfortunately the islands sewage works are on this point and we
could not see any other sites due to the closeness of the hotel and
the lack of any screening from it. We chose to carry on west for the
three miles or so, hoping to find a pitch somewhere near the quay
(103 499). This bay really dries out and we wanted to give ourselves
as little carry to the boats as possible. It was, coincidentally, close Walter the Steward married Bruce’s daughter Marjorie and was
to the Kilchattan Bay Hotel. However nothing presented itself so we given Bute in addition to other lands. Carrying on for another
headed due north landing at about (577 563), a brief inspection couple of km, we put into Kerrycroy Bay for a brew-up. A nice
finding nothing suitable we dragged the now beached boats back beach and a row of beautiful houses behind the village green built
into the water and headed east to where we could now see Gerry by a previous Marquis for his staff.
and Neil having rounded Kerrytonlia point. We finally put in to
shore close to where a track led to the water. Above the boulder
beach there is a good site for any number of tents but without fresh
a water source, The rain by this time was falling fairly heavily and
we struggled to erect the tents and get our gear inside without it
getting wet, then struggled to get fed. The lights of the hotel
beckoned through the drizzle but the thought of the 6km. round
trip did not appeal so we stayed put. I had been told on an earlier
visit to the lime kiln near the hotel, that King Haaken had put in
there after the battle of Largs. There may be some truth in this but I
believe he would have made the few extra miles to his castle in
Rothesay.

By contrast Gerry and Neil had an uneventful crossing, after

rounding Great Cumbrie in a stiff wind, the sea calmed under the
shelter of Bute and the four mile crossing consisted of being gently
pushed across on a 1 knot tide, drinking beer and watching the
porpoises, putting paddles in only really to keep on course. 10 mls.

Saturday
Awoke to quite a fine day although quite cool for the time of year.
Back on the water we continued north rounding Bogany Point and
A leisurely breakfast followed as the tide was still on the ebb and we
made our way into Rothesay Bay, landing in the outer harbour on a
wanted the flood to take us north. Afloat just before slack water we
slipway near the Putting green. Here we found the place to be in
nosed our way into little more than a ripple troubling the surface of
holiday spirit as the funfare had come to town. Leaving the boats in
the Firth. About four km later we passed Mountstuart House (The
the care of Gerry, Ron and I headed into town to stock up on
first private house in Britain to be lit with electricity) home to a
“medicine” and to purchase fish suppers.(Ross and Neil had pushed
certain racing driver once called Johnnie Dumfriess, now calling
on as they intended to camp on Loch Striven and would join us the
himself Johnnie Bute, the present marquis. Mountstuart House is
following day) The suppers were consumed listening to the music
the greatest Gothic style private house in Britain and well worth a
blaring above before we once again settled on the water and
visit: The title goes back to the time of Robert the Bruce, when
continued our course of 0deg. Ardbeg Point offers a campsite next carried on expecting to catch up with them at the site we had
to the shelter(if in dire- straits) we were’nt so we carried on to agreed on earlier (024 744) The absence of our companions quite
investigate the north shore of Kames Bay. No sites here but a family discomfited Gerry and to a lesser extent Ron who was also
in a small yacht caught our attention, on asking them if they knew unhappy.
of any possible camping spots, they directed us to the playing fields
at the west end of the village. Putting in there with the intention of
camping in the field adjoining the football pitch we found sufficient
space for our tents between the road and the shore. After our meal
we sojourned into Port Bannatyne where a pleasant evening was
spent in the Anchor Bar. Three points for atmosphere and service.
Days travel 12.5ml.

Sunday
Fine weather allowed us to dry what wet gear we had from the first
nights rain as we made “steady progress” towards an 11am start.
Following the coastline we did not see anything remotely like a
suitable campsite along the whole of the Bute coast before the
Rhubodach ferry slip. We stopped off for a brew up (048 723) and to
await the arrival of Ross and Neil.

Campsite at Ballnakailly Bay (022 742)

We did not find them there and knew we had missed them at
Colintraive, (they were in the bar).

Sometime later our friends hove into view on the other side of the
Kyles, gave us a wave, then carried on. By the time we had cleared
up and got onto the water they were out of site. We paddled on,
passing close to the Colintraive ferry pier looking for signs of the
pair in the beer garden of the hotel but without success, then
The area has any amount of space but the water in the burn is
largely stagnant and the sides like a quagmire. With tents pitched
Ron and I caught the ferry to the mainland to fill our water
containers at the pier waiting room,(no water at the terminal on
Bute side) then set off in search of our companions. We had no
difficulty in finding them, (three guesses). We relayed Gerry’s
opinion and had a (very expensive) half pint of beer and made our
way back to find Gerry sitting on the pier awaiting our return.
Firewood was difficult to obtain but we managed a wee fire to have
a blether around and to indicate our presence to absent friends. A
fishing rod would have been welcome as their were signs that the
mackerel were moving near the shore. We did not see Neil nor Ross
again that night. Days travel 12.5 miles.
Monday
Another fine morning, parked 50 or 60 meters away were the two
lost souls, who on leaving the hotel at closing time did not head for
this bay but paddled instead to the area they had first seen us
which was a mile or so back down the Kyles at (048 723), again not
finding us they retraced back to there present position. Maybe it
being pitch dark at the time or the drink or both had something to
do with this. Even if they did get close in the dark, Ron’s snoring
would have drowned out their calls. Following a leisurely packing of
boats, we headed north through the small islets and tarried to
admire the wonderful scenery. No wind nor waves worth mentioning
but thin cloud covering the sun kept the temperature down. Ross
and Neil were heading north to explore Loch Riddon, ween the old
hands to head to Ettrick Bay and our next campsite. Before parting
we sat savouring the day and partaking of a bottle of Dr Ron’s
aereated medicine while leisurely circling in a back eddy.
Thus refreshed we turned our bows south west to follow the Bute
coastline, keeping a lookout for possible future campsites but these
like the east coast were few and far between. The first we came
upon at (995 702) we put in for a quick brew and a smoke.
Setting off, our bows now due south with the ebb pushing us along
past Tighnabruach on our right and forcing us on to Ettrick Bay
without detour. There are one or two boltholes before Ettrick Bay
but the chances of camping ground close by are slim. Checking out
the north end of the bay, we found too many cars parked on areas
that might have taken a tent so we headed due south passing the
café, to finally put in at(396 702) and set up camp. The bay being
very shallow and with the tide well out now we had to carry the
boats and gear a good distance to the pitch. There are better sites
further south with steeper shelving beaches but where we landed
was not to bad. Having no sooner got the tent pitched, the wind
picked up strongly from south east so a decision was taken to move
the tent a few meters to a more sheltered spot thus reducing the
view out to sea. In a south easterly an even more sheltered spot can
be had in the field just over the dyke.
By now Neil and Ross had rejoined us in time for supper sporting
four Mackerel, filleted and ready for the pan, (and were they tasty).
The Coastguard weather report confirmed our worst fears, that a
wind F6 to F7 gusting F8 was imminent and be with us for the a
few days. With no possible landing sites close to the south of the
island and the fact that it is quite exposed to conditions, further
progress to our start point was not possible given the poor forecast.
We could make Scalpsie Bay but it would be more difficult to make
alternative plans for our return. Gerry had to return home by
Friday morning at the latest so it was decided that he and Ross
Would return via the Rothesay-Wemyss Bay ferry to collect the two
vehicles from Largs and return to pick up the boats from Ettrick
Bay. The café/tearoom was surveyed. Very good homemade cakes,
lunches, filled rolls etc. also toilets but no bar and closes at
6.00pm. There is also a local bus service to Rothesay via Port
Bannatyne. The public telephone was as usual, out of order. Days
travel 11miles.
inexperienced kayakers since access to a road from most parts of
the island is not too far and there are taxis to be hired, so
starvation at least would not be a problem. There is also the benefit
of mini trips as taken by Ross and Neil or cruising the east coast to
Tighnabruich and beyond to Loch Fyne.
With luck and some planning we may return to complete the route

Submitted by Tom Patton and Gerry Clifford.

Tuesday
Not such a pleasant day. Ron and I took a trip into Rothesay where
we did a bit of shopping, sightseeing and surveyed the Black Bull
Hotel,( more than adequate,) Met up with Gerry and Ross off the
ferry with the cars, more shopping, another bar lunch followed and
return to campsite. Neil throughout was left riding shotgun at the
tents.

Wednesday
The wind seemed to have abated a somewhat with a fair bit of sun,
but cool. It was mooted that a day trip to Inchmarnock could be
undertaken but the general feeling was that we make steady
progress to return home on the morrow. Gerry, Neil and Ross did go
on the water for a bit of practice in the waves but ended when Neil
dropped his head cam in the sea while practicing his roll. With a bit
of diving the camera was recovered, none the worse for the
dunking.

Verdict
Generally a very enjoyable trip. Although Bute is a well populated
island, only the coast between Kilchattan Bay and Port Bannatyne Ron young and Tom Patton
was not available to us for camping. Leaving from Rhubodach
would have been easier to collect cars if required as the first and
final crossings are very short and there is reasonable security for
Scottish Hostellers Canoe Club
vehicles if left in the hotel car park. This would be a good trip for