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DIY Active Subwoofer Build With Integrated Amplifi
DIY Active Subwoofer Build With Integrated Amplifi
by Donny Terek
Hi everyone! Thanks for tuning in to this project of mine, I hope you'll like it and perhaps try to build it yourself! As
always I have included a detailed list of modified plans, a wiring diagram, product links and much more for your
information on the build. I encourage you to check my video first before diving in to the build. Let's get started!
https://youtu.be/Kh8GEj95YDI
The main goal for this project was to build a As you can see below, I have attached a set of plans,
subwoofer that would play pretty low and would have metric and imperial for all needs. You will also find
an integrated amplifier capable of powering two other the template for the control panel in the end of the
speakers all cramped inside a relatively compact plans which you can print out and glue to a piece of
enclosure. Fiddling around with various woofers in wood to have an accurately made control panel. Feel
winISD I have decided to go with a Tang Band woofer free to download the plans and the wiring diagram for
and a 2.1 amplifier for best results. As you can see by your personal use. I would love to see how your
the graph, the enclosure is tuned to 43Hz and has an project turned out!
F3 of around 37Hz which is pretty amazing
considering the price of the woofer and the compact Note that I have modified the plans therefore the
enclosure that it needs. Of course it will not play that speaker may look different than in the video. I have
low cleanly due to port noise and possible chuffing modified the plans to use less components and be
but will still perform great. easier to build with an overall better design.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F1K/Y772/JV2R8V7G/F1KY772JV2R8V7G.pdf
…
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FRF/4L5Z/JV2R8V7M/FRF4L5ZJV2R8V7M.pdf
…
You may have noticed that there are less components in the wiring diagram compared to the video. I did so to
reduce the number of the components used and simplify the overall build process of the subwoofer. I have also
used a similar amplifier that has the Bluetooth built in so that you don't need a separate module for that. Here you
will find the complete list of parts and tools used for the build. Note that the parts can be ordered internationally.
COMPONENTS:
TOOLS:
The main building materials that I used are 12mm (1/2"), 6mm (1/4") MDF boards for the enclosure and 4mm (1/8")
plywood for the control panel.
Once you got the plans printed out we can start the first marked the location of where I need to cut out
build. As you can see I am using a table saw to and drilled four holes in each corner, making sure to
accurately cut the MDF pieces out but I know that not only drill halfway through on each side to avoid
many people have an access to a table saw. tearout. I then took a jigsaw and cut as close to the
Therefore you can also use a jigsaw to roughly cut line as possible. No need to be exact here, it is only
the pieces out and sand them down later and perhaps important that the amplifier support panel sits nicely
use a bit of wood filler to get the edges as smooth as on the edge. I also cut a hole for the port using a
possible. circle cutting jig on a router but you can use a 64mm
(2 1/2") hole saw so that the port sits snug.
To cut out the piece for the amplifier to go through, I
Once the side panels were cut I glued the the port in enclosure in your desired paint or material.
place. Here I am using a PVC pipe as a port since I
did not have the proper one on hand therefore I glued I also cut the hole for the woofer with a recess to flush
the port in place before assembling and painting the mount the woofer but you can simply cut the hole with
enclosure. You should use these ports and glue both a 127mm (5") hole saw and not worry about the flush
of them end to end. Make sure you insert one first mounting.
through the hole on the side panel and then glue the
other port to the first once you have finished the
A self-explanatory and satisfying step - gluing the best adhesion while the glue dries.
enclosure together. Use plenty of glue on the sides
and make sure that the edges are square. Note that I You have also probably noticed that I have glued the
have glued port supports on the bottom of the back panel support pieces along the back edge of the
enclosure which I have not included in the plans - that enclosure but since I have redesigned the speaker,
is one more thing I have redesigned in the final plans you will need to cut a larger back panel and skip the
so that there is less cutting and the power supply can panel support pieces and screw the back panel
be mounted on the bottom instead. directly to the enclosure.
Once the glue has fully dried I took an orbital sander Once the edges were smooth I took the enclosure
for a quick job of sanding the enclosure and getting it and rounded over the edges on the router using a
ready for paint. A sanding block can be used as well roundover bit. It turned out really nice with a nice
but will take much more time and effort so use any radius all around the edges. Sandpaper can be used
help you can to speed up the process. instead for a similar result.
Notice that the back panel sits differently than in the and then use a larger drill bit only on the back panel
build plans above. In the redesigned plans you can so that the screws don't bite into the back panel but
see that there are no panel support pieces, only clamp it in place.
simplifying the build process so that the back panel
can be screwed directly to the enclosure. Holes were then drilled for the AUX input jack and the
speaker terminals. I also drilled the holes for the
I have decided to drill countersinks on the back panel rubber feet and placed 4 screws on the bottom to
so that the screws sit flush. I then placed the back serve as stands while painting.
panel in place and drilled the screw holes. Make sure
you drill with a smaller drill bit first all the way through
To prepare the MDF for painting, I made a mixture of 50/50 wood glue (Titebond III) and water and brushed it on
the surface letting it cure overnight. This makes the surface hard and great for spray painting later. Once the glue
mixture has dried I lightly sanded the enclosure once again to get it ready for painting. Before spray painting I
wiped the enclosure with a solvent to remove any oils or residue that may have been left on top.
I applied a few light coats of grey primer on the surface. Once the primer has fully dried I sanded it with a 600 grit
sanding sponge for better paint adhesion. I recommend wiping the surface once again with solvent to remove any
oils before painting the color.
I used matte black spray paint for the top color coat, making sure it fully dries afterwards. I am using a heating
lamp to speed up the process.
To make the control panel make sure you download piece. Mark the holes with a center punch and use a
the plans placed above and use the last page to cut small drill bit to drill all the holes first. Then gradually
out a template. Double check with a ruler that the use larger drill bits where needed to avoid tearout.
measurements are correct on the template once you Once the holes are drilled take the template off and
print it out. You may need to resize the image to get sand it smooth. I also applied clear coat on the panel
the correct size. for a nicer finish.
Take the finished control panel and mount it to the amplifier. I have also soldered a green power indicator LED and
pushed it in from behind. I then placed the threaded inserts in the amplifier support panel and glued it in place on
the ledge of the enclosure making sure that the triangular pieces are also glued in place. I then pushed the
amplifier in place, screwed it in from the inside and drill the holes for the screws.
Just a few more things left to do and we have a finished active subwoofer! I am placing a strip of adhesive foam
around the edge of the enclosure to make it airtight once the back panel is screwed in place. Same goes for the
control panel opening. Once that is done I mounted the speaker connectors and screwed the back panel in place.
Don't forget to add the rubber feet on the bottom!
Probably my favorite step of this build is mounting this beefy woofer in its place. For that put it in place first and
used a hole punch to mark the holes for the screws. I then took the woofer out and drilled the holes through the
panel. Using the same adhesive foam tape to make sure the woofer sits sealed against the edge. I ten connected
the woofer to the amplifier and screwed it in place. Placing the amplifier knobs finishes the build.
We can sit back and admire the little subwoofer that we have built. Just plug in the power cord, turn on the switch
and use your preferred method of audio input - whether it is through an aux cable or Bluetooth. The Bluetooth
connection is instant and stable, providing great sound and performance.
I am more than happy this subwoofer turned out. It Instructable so that me and others can admire your
packs a punch and is definitely powerful enough for work! Feel free to post any questions or comments
home use. It can also output plenty of power to down below, I will try my best to answer them.
various different speakers for the best listening
experience. Thank you for tuning in to this project of mine and I
will see you on the next one!
I hope you liked this project and perhaps learned
something new! My hopes are that you will give this - Donny
build a try yourself and post it at the end of the
Great project. I think I'd look for a more efficient sub, although all the other specs, especially Xmax
look great.
Thank you! I chose this sub to be able to use it in a small enclosure producing great results.
My pleasure as always!
Great job! Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks that take a build to the next level!
Hi, what a great looking project with a nice clear set of build instructions.
Can you please explain ,what is the purpose of the ports and the piece of pvc pipe? is it for
ventilation? Thanks for a great job!
Hi, thank you so much!
The purpose of the ports used in many speakers is to improve the efficiency of the low frequencies
produced by the speaker. Generally speaking, it helps most speakers play into lower frequencies.
The length and width of the port needs to be calculated according to the speaker used in the
enclosure.
I hope that answers your question!
NICE WORK!!!
Thank you!!