Horgolas

Materials:
12mm crochet hook (my hook is by Clover).

6 skins of Caron One Pound yarn. (Mine is in the color soft sage)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Finished rug dimensions: About 58 inches in diameter.

Stitch Key (US Terms)
SC = Single Crochet
CH = Chain
YO= Yarn Over
INC= Increase – Put two stitches in the same space. (In this case, it will be two
SC stitches.)
SL ST= Slip Stitch
*= To Be Repeated
Gauge: 3” by 3” square- 5 stitches by 5 rows- Single Crochet

Special Stitches
Bobble: *YO, Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop , YO and pull through 2
loops on your hook* Repeat 3 more times. Now you should have 5 loops on
your hook. YO and pull through all 5 loops on your hook. (do not chain after
this, just go straight into your next stitch)

Magic Circle: If you are unfamiliar with the Magic Circle/Ring method you are
welcome to chain 3, join, and crochet in the circle you created. If you would
like to learn how to crochet the Magic Circle here is an awesome video
tutorial.
Pattern
Row 1: SC 10 into a Magic Circle. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (10)
Row 2: INC in each stitch around. Join back into the first SC, CH 1, turn.(20)
Row 3: *BOBBLE, SC* around. Join back into the first SC, CH 1, turn. (20)
Row 4: *INC, SC* around. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (30)
Row 5: SC 30. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (30)
Row 6: *INC, SC 2* around. Join back into the first SC, CH 1, turn (40)

Row 8: *INC, SC 3* around. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (50)
Pro Tip: This is a good place to stop if you only want to use three skeins of
yarn instead of 6.
Tie off and sew in your loose ends.

Pattern for the Squirrel Motif
Stylecraft Double DK
4.5mm hook
US crochet terms. I am left-handed so the photos will show work from a LH

perspective, but the pattern should work just fine for right-handers. Working
with the right hand the squirrels will face the other way.
Starting with the back leg
Make a magic loop, Ch1, 8sc into the loop, pull loop together, sl into the 1st ch.
to join. 8 sts
2 Round
nd
Ch1, 2sc into each st, sl into the first ch. to join. 16 sts
3rd Round
Ch1, 2sc, 2sc into next st,
(back foot) ch4,
sc into 3rd and 4th st from the hook, sc into same st as the 2scs
sc into the next 4sts.
2sc into each of the next 3sts, sc, 2sc into next st, 2hd into next st, 2dcs into
next st, 2 tr into next st.
(neck) Ch4
work 4dc into the 4th ch from the hook

** please note that is between the bottoms of these stitches that you will
work scs in Round 4. See Picture 6 in Round 4**
sl into same st of Round 2, 2sl, sl to join.
4th Round
Sl into next 3sts. sl into next 2 loops (back foot)
Picture 1
2sl into next st, which takes you round the end of the ‘foot’,
Sl into next 9sts, 4sc,
Picture 2
(tail) 4sc into back loops (if you can find another loop lower down, at the back
of the work, to work into as well this stabilises the back loop stitches), 2hd
into back loops, ch7,
Picture 3
3hd in 3rd ch from hook,

2dc, 2tr, dtr (yarn 3 times round the hook) in next ch,
miss 1ch,
Picture 4
2dtr, tr in next ch
2tr, dc, in next ch, sl into next st of Round 3

Picture 5
2sl, Work 5 sc in the gaps between the next sts. (also covering the thread at
the base)
Picture 6 **
Here are a few more photos to explain where the single crochets go
and in a different colour for clarity
Hope that helps.
Picture 7
At last it begins to look like a Squirrel
(head) ch3, sl in 3rd ch from hook,

sl into one of the ch3 (into, not over), sl into first dc of the neck,
Working into the gap between: 4sc, hd, sc.

Picture 8
2sl, hd.
Picture 9
(front foot)
2sl, ch2, sl in 2nd from the hook, sl into the body at base of front foot . Cut yarn
and pull through to the front, then take the end to the back (leave a long tail of
thread if you will be sewing this on as applique), or sew in the ends.
Pin to shape and block.
Gummy Worms
the crochet sleeping fox
Materials needed:
*H hook
* weaving needle
*orange yarn (took me maybe 1/4 skein of hobby lobby's i love this yarn)
*white yarn
*black yarn
* polyfil stuffing
Terms used:
*sl st - slip stitch
*sc - single crochet
*ch - chain
*sc2tog - single crochet 2 stitches together
*sts - stitches
I started by making the head of the fox first. The pattern was as follows...
Using the white yarn, make a magic loop,
Rnd 1: 4sc into magic loop; join with sl st into first sc. (4sts)
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc into each st; join with sl st into first sc. (8sts)
Rnd 3: ch 1, *2sc in st, sc in next st* 4 times total; join with sl st into first sc.
(12sts)
Switch to orange yarn
Rnd 4: ch 1, 12sc around; join with sl st into first sc. (12sts)

Rnd 5: ch 1, 2sc in each st; join with sl st into first sc. (24sts)
Rnd 7: ch 1, *2sc in st, sc into next 3sts; join with sl st into first sc. (30sts)
Rnd 8-14: 30sc around; join with sl st into first sc. (30sts)
At this point I weaved in the ends and sewed on the nose and eyes with a little
black yarn. To see my placement you can look at this picture....
Rnd 15: ch 1, *sc2tog, sc in next 3sts* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc.
(24sts)
(18sts)
Rnd 17: ch 1, *sc2tog, sc in next st* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc.
(12sts)
Stuff head with polyfil.
Rnd 18: ch 1, *sc2tog* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc. (6sts)
Tie off. Weave yarn around each sc and pull together to close opening. Weave
in tail.
Next I made the ears. You can use the same picture above as reference for
placement.
Make two pieces.
Start ear using black yarn to make a magic loop.

Rnd 1: 4sc in magic loop; join with sl st into first sc. (4sts)
Rnd 3: ch 1, 2sc in each st; join with sl st into first sc. (8sts)

Rnd 5: ch 1, *2sc into st, sc in next st* 4 times total; join with sl st into first sc.
(12sts)
Rnds 6-9: ch 1, 12sc around; join with sl st into first sc. (12sts)
Tie off leaving a long tail to sew onto head. Sew ears onto head by flattening
out the piece, do not stuff ear.
You will make the body next. This piece starts at the tip of the tail and works
into the body so it is all connected.
Using white yarn, make a magic circle
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic circle; join with sl st into first sc. (6sts)
Rnd 3: ch 1, *2sc in each* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc. (12sts)
(18sts)
(12sts)
Rnd 27: *sc2tog* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc. (6sts)
Rnd 31: ch 1, *2sc in each* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc. (12sts)
(18sts)
Rnd 33: ch 1, *2sc in st, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times total; join with sl st into first
sc. (24sts)
Rnd 34: ch 1, *2sc in st, sc in next 3 sts* 6 times total; join with sl st into first
sc. (30sts)
(24sts)
(18sts)
(12sts)
Rnd 54: ch 1, *sc2tog* 6 times total; join with sl st into first sc. (6sts)
Tie off leaving a long tail to sew the head to the body. Weave yarn around each
sc and pull together to close opening. Sew the head to the body.
Now you will need to make the legs. To do so, you will start by making a magic
loop with black yarn.
Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring; join with sl st into front loop only of first sc. (8sts)
Rnd 2: ch 1, 8sc in front loop only; join with sl st into first sc. (8sts)
Tie off, leaving long tail to sew leg onto body. You can sew them on however
you like, but I chose to flatten the ends. I stuffed the legs, leaving the top
opening free of stuffing so I could flatten them and sew on that way. The
picture below shows where I placed the legs on the stuffy.
Crochet Pattern: Rainbow Nesting Bowls
Update 11/8/2012
I have gotten a lot of e-mails about the way I wrote out some of my increase
rounds (rounds 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12). This is the way I increase when I crochet
anything round. I hate getting that hexagon shape!! And I felt very strongly
about writing my pattern out this way. So, I have decided to keep the original
pattern, but for those of you that are having a hard time with it, or have your
own way of evenly increasing, or just prefer the pattern written out more
normal (haha), I have decided to post an updated version here: Rainbow
Nesting Bowls.
********************
I made these nesting bowls (along with some sorting balls) last year for my
cousin Riley and my nephew Ezekiel. They were birthday presents. Both kids
and my own Riley loved them. I posted them on my Ravelry projects page, and
shared them on Flickr. I've had a lot of requests for the pattern. So I figured it
was about time I wrote it out all nice and pretty, and shared it here!!
ABBREVIATIONS
ch chain
inc increase
rnd(s) round(s)
sc single crochet
work instructions between parentheses as many times as
()
indicated
MATERIALS
 US F5/3.75mm Crochet Hook

 Worsted Weight Yarn in purple, blue, green, yellow, orange and red (I
used "Red Heart Super Saver" in Lavender, Turqua, Spring Green, Bright
Yellow, Pumpkin and Cherry Red).
 Stitch Marker
 Yarn Needle
NOTES
 Rounds are worked in continuous spirals, do not join or turn.

 Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning or end of each round. Make
sure to move the marker up each time you start a new round.
 I start with a magic ring, PlanetJune has a great tutorial for that here.
You can substitute "ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook" for the magic ring and
round 1, if you prefer.
 I use an invisible fasten off, there is a great tutorial for that here, just
scroll down to "invisible finish".
 I always back weave my ends, here is a video showing you exactly the
same method I use.
 Nest the previous bowls inside the bowl you are working on (before
fastening off) to make sure it is the right height. If your yarns vary in thickness
(my purple is slightly thicker) you may have to add or subtract a round.
 The height of the bowls can also be adjusted to your liking, just add
more rounds until they are the desired height.
PATTERN
PURPLE BOWL
Make a magic ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) six times (18)
Rnd 4: sc 1 (inc, sc 2) five times, inc, sc 1 (24)
Rnd 8: in back loops only, sc around (42)
Rnds 9-12: sc around (42)
Fasten off, weave in ends
BLUE BOWL
Make a magic ring
GREEN BOWL
Make a magic ring
YELLOW BOWL
Make a magic ring
ORANGE BOWL
Make a magic ring
RED BOWL
Make a magic ring
They are awesome for nesting, stacking, sorting, counting, patterns and
anything else you or your little tot can think up!! Every time Riley sees
pictures of them on the computer, he tells me he wants them, so I am finally
getting around to making him his own set. When I finish one bowl, he tells me
which color he wants me to make next. He's kinda demanding, haha!!
I hope you like making them! It's the first time I've shared one of my patterns,
so I am kinda nervous. I re-wrote it several times, trying to word it just right,
then I decided that I was gonna word it the way I liked, and I put it back to the
way I originally had it saved on my computer (just more cleaned up with the
extra notes and stuff).
I plan on writing out the pattern for the balls too. They are simple, and pretty
basic. You can find several version online already if you look, but I figured I'd
share it anyways, to save you the trouble! Hopefully I can get it posted this
week. (Edit: You can now find the pattern for the color sorting balls here.)
Rainbow fishing game
Supplies
Worsted Weight Yarn - 7 Colors needed for the rainbow, a lip color, plus 6 fish
colors
Small amount of Crochet Thread (I used Bernat's Handicrafter Cotton Thread
Size 5 in Gray)
Size "B" 2.25 mm crochet hook
Size "G" 4.25 mm crochet hook
Small Amount of stuffing
Sew-on Craft Eyes (optional)
6 Washers (1/2" or smaller with a hole large enough to fit your hook through)
Super Strong Magnets - I used one magnet 8 mm wide by 3 mm high
Tree Branch or Dowel Rod for Fishing pole
Stitches
Magic Circle
sc - Single Crochet
sl st - Slip Stitch
sc2tog - Single Crochet two together
The Pattern
Tailfin
The lovely heart shaping on the tailfin is achieved by creating two separate
pieces, then attaching them together on Round 3. To do this, you will
work Piece A through Round 2 and fasten off. For Piece B, you will follow the
same first two rounds, then join Piece A and Piece B together while crocheting
on Round 3.
Using body color, Ch 2.

Round 1: sc 6 times in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Round 2: *2sc, sc* repeat from * around (9)
For first tailfin, fasten off. For 2nd tailfin, continue working.
Round 3: sc in next 4 sts of the current piece (Piece B), work the next sc into
the first unworked stitch of Piece A, then continue working 1 sc in next 8 sts,
then work 1 sc in the 5 remaining sts of Piece B. (18)
Round 4: *sc2tog, sc* repeat from * around (12)
Round 5: *sc2tog* repeat from * around (6)
Fasten off with a short tail.
Note: You may notice a small gap where the pieces were joined together. The
tail will not be stuffed, so it's ok to leave it as is. However, if you use this
technique on a project that will require stuffing, you can use the yarn ends
from fastening off Piece A to close the gap.
Fish Body
The fish begins by working single crochets around the washer using the lip
color. To work a single crochet around the wash, draw up a loop through the
hole in the center of the washer, then yarn over and pull through the loop at
the edge of the washer.
Round 1: Using lip color, work 12 sc around washer. For this round only, join
with sl st. Pull up a loop using the body color and ch 1. Pull the tail of the lip
color tightly around the body color and fasten off leaving a short tail. (12)
Round 2: Using body color, sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *2sc, sc* repeat from * around (18)
Round 4: sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 5: *2sc, sc in next 2 sts* repeat from * around (24)
Round 6-8: sc in each stitch around (24, work 3 rounds)
Round 9: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* repeat from * around (18)
Round 11: *sc2tog, sc* repeat from * around (12)
At this point, you should stuff the fish and attach safety eyes if using them.
Safety eyes should be secured at the same spot on each side of the fish.
Round 13: *sc2tog* repeat from * around (6)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assemble the Fish

Thread the long tail from the fish body through a yarn needle and begin
sewing the tail and fish together by picking up one loop from the tail, then one
loop from the fish and continue around. Fasten off by tying a knot and pulling
it to the inside.
NOTE: If you used eyes, make sure you position the tail correctly (up/down)
in comparison with the eyes.
The Magnetic Hook

To make the magnetic portion as safe as possible, I crocheted a small
encasement around the magnet leaving a small portion of the bottom of the
magnet exposed.
Using crochet thread (size 5 cotton) and a size "B" hook.
Round 1: Crochet 10 scs into a Magic Circle. Pull the circle until the last sc
meets up with the first sc. There will be a small opening in the center of the
magic circle.
Round 2: *sc 2 tog* around.
Fasten off leaving an 18" tail.
Insert the magnet into the middle of the crocheted piece.
Using a yarn needle, pull the tail through one loop of each sc from Round 2.
Pull the tail tightly to close up the hole on the top.
Fishing Pole
Cut a stick (or dowel rod) to approx. 10" long.
Wrap the long tail of the crochet thread around the fishing pole 3 times, then
tie it off securely.
The Fishing Pond that doubles as a carrying bag is available as a kit exclusive!
The kit includes all the hard-to-find materials that you'll need to create the
fishing game. I have already pre-cut the tree branches (and they all have a tiny
handle for toddler hands). Plus, they've been cleaned and rubbed with organic
coconut oil. The kit also comes with the wiggle eyes, washers and magnet
assembly PLUS the BONUS pattern for the Pond and Carrying Bag.
Buy it now on Etsy
SAFETY FIRST
Magnets are not intended for use in toys for children under 3 years of age.
Magnets can be harmful if swallowed as normal machines cannot be used to
detect them. Never use two magnets in one project. If a child swallows two
magnets, the magnets can stick together through the intestinal walls causing
major damage. Please use caution when allowing your children to play with
toys containing magnets.
crochet rainbow applique
JUNE 8, 2014
My son was invited to a Rainbow themed birthday party yesterday and as I
was wrapping the gift I quickly realized I didn’t have a card. No problem for
this crafter! A crochet rainbow appliqué was easy to make and made for a
pretty embellishment for the top of a plain note card!
Materials:
– Worsted weight yarn in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple and white
– Size H or G Crochet Hook
– Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations:
Magic Ring Tutorial
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
Rainbow Pattern:
starting with purple yarn
Magic Ring, chain 1 and make 8 SC inside ring. Pull tight but do not join. You
should have a half circle.
attach blue yarn, chain 1, turn
Row 2: SC in each stitch, (8 SC)
attach green yarn, chain 1, turn
Row 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat until end of row (12 SC)
attach yellow yarn, chain 1, turn
Row 4: SC in each a stitch (12 SC)
attach orange yarn, chain 1, turn
Row 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next (18 SC)
attach red yarn, chain 1, tun
Row 6: SC in each stitch across (18 SC)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Cloud Pattern:
Chain 13, 4 HDC in 3rd chain from hook, *skip a stitch and join to next stitch
with a slip stitch, skip a stitch and make 4 HDC in the next stitch, continue
from * all the way down chain. You should have 3 cloud humps. Make 4 HDC in
the last stitch, join to stitch on the other side of chain. Make 4 HDC in the next
stitch, skip a stitch and join with a slip stitch to next stitch, continue same
pattern along the other side of chain to make another 3 cloud humps. Make 4
HDC in the last chain to complete your clouds! Fasten off leaving a long tail to
sew onto edge of rainbow.
Crochet a Gorgeous Set of Rainbow Nesting Baskets
by Wink18 Jul 2013
What You'll Be Creating

In this tutorial, you'll learn how to make a set of seven rainbow nesting
baskets. These baskets are great for storage, but they're also perfect for
teaching your little ones about colour and shapes! They can keep themselves
busy for hours as they discover how to fit all the baskets together. If you’ve
always wanted to learn how to crochet, follow our series of Crochet
Fundamentals. This pattern uses US terms and stitches include single crochet
(sc); half double crochet (hdc); inc (increase); slip stitch (sl st) and chain (ch).
Supplies
Yarn (I use Special DK by Stylecraft) in

rainbow colours (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, violet)
A crochet hook
A darning needle for sewing in the ends
A pair of scissors
A stitch marker
1. Crochet the Largest Basket
Step 1
With your violet yarn, make a magic circle and secure with a stitch. If you
don't know how to do this, check out our video tutorial on How to Make a
Magic Ring here.
Work six single crochet into the ring.
Step 2
We're going to work the bottom part of our basket in to one big spiral. In other
words, we're not going to join our rounds but we'll keep working on the
previous stitches, creating a spiral.
Work two single crochet in each stitch around (you're increasing six times),
and place a stitch marker after you've made the last stitch (12 stitches). The
stitch marker will help us keep track of the end of each round.
Step 3
From now on, we're going to use the term 'increase' (inc) whenever you have
to work two single crochet into one stitch.
Work *1 sc, inc* around. Move the stitch marker to the last stitch made. (18
stitches).
Step 4
stitches).
Step 5
stitches).
Step 6
stitches).
Step 7
stitches).
Step 8
stitches).
Step 9
stitches).
Step 10
stitches).
Step 11
stitches).
Step 12
Now we're going to crochet the sides of the basket. From now on, we're going
to join our rounds after each row.
Chain one, and working in the back loops only, work one half double crochet
in each stitch around until you reach the chain one. Join the round with a slip
stitch in the chain one (you can remove your stitch marker; we don't need it
anymore).
Step 13
Chain two, work one half double crochet in each stitch around (through both
loops from now on). Join with a slip stitch in the top of the beginning chain
two.
Step 14
Chain two, work one half double crochet in each stitch around. Join with a slip
stitch in the top of the beginning chain two.
Step 15
Step 16
Step 17
Step 18
Chain two, work one half double crochet in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch
in the top of the beginning chain two.
Step 19
Step 20
Step 21
Step 22
Step 23
Now that your basket is arge enough; it's time to put a little border around it. Chain 1,
work a single crochet into the next stitch, then *ch 1, 1 sc* around. Join with a slip
stitch to the beginning chain one. Work in your ends using your darning needle.
2. Crochet the Other Baskets

For each of the following baskets, make the base and the sides one round smaller.
Here's how many rounds and stitches each colour should have:
 Red basket - five rounds for the base/sides; 30 stitches

 Orange basket - six rounds for the base/sides; 36 stitches
 Yellow basket - seven rounds for the base/sides; 42 stitches
 Green basket - eight rounds for the base/sides; 48 stitches
 Blue basket - nine rounds for the base/sides; 54 stitches
 Purple basket - 10 rounds for the base/sides; 60 stitches
 Violet basket - 11 rounds for the base/sides; 66 stitches
Enjoy Your Nesting Baskets

Congratulations, you have now made a gorgeous set of rainbow nesting baskets!
In this tutorial, you've learned how to work in spirals and rounds; how to increase to
create a circle; and how to create a quirky and fun border to give your basket a
finished look.
Use your baskets for holding jewelry, rings or knick knacks; or gift them to a toddler
and provide them with a stimulating learning experience.

Free Crochet Pattern...Rainbow Blooms!
These happy little flowers are easy to make and work up in just two
rounds! Use them as an applique or make a whole meadow of them!
Rainbow Blooms
By Jennifer Dickerson
Click the button below to add this to your Ravelry queue:
Materials:
 Worsted weight yarn (yarn shown is Red Heart Super Saver in
"Cherry Red" "Perfect Pink" "Spring Green" "Lavender" "Orchid" "Turquoise"
"Bright Yellow" and "Pumpkin"
 J (6.0 mm) Crochet Hook
 Tapestry Needle
 Scissors
Note: Any yarn can be used for this pattern, check yarn label for
recommended hook size for best results.
Sizing:
 Made with worsted weight yarn and J hook, each flower measure
approximately 2.5 inches across. Sizing will vary with different hooks and
yarn.
Instructions:
Ch 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 then work 11 dc into the center of the ring, Join to close
round with a sl st.
Round 2: Chain 3 and in the first space, work (2 dc, then a sl st). *Skip
the next space. In the next space work (3 dc, then a sl st) all in the same
space. Continue from * to end for a total of six petals. Join to close
round with a sl st. Fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends and you're finished! Use as an applique or layer for a colorful effect. Check out this
project where I used the flowers, plus some buttons to make fun headbands!
This Half Circle Watermelon Rug is made by holding two strands of
yarn and using 100% cotton. Therefore, it’s very durable and machine
washable for all those stinky feet you’ll have walking all over it
This post may contain affiliate links, please view my disclosure

policy for details.
Pattern:
 Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE. Which
includes step-by-step photos!
 PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
Materials:
 8 balls Lily Sugar & Cream (or Peaches and Cream)
 4 in hot pink, 2 in green, 1 in white, & 1 in black
 6mm and 5.5mm Crochet Hook
 Scissors
 Tapestry needle
Stitch Guide:
 Dc (double crochet)
 Hdc (half double crochet)
 Hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – Yarn over, insert your
hook into the next st, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, insert
your hook into the NEXT st, yarn over, pull up a loop. You should
have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops.
 Ch (chain)
 Sl st (slip stitch)
 Rep (repeat)
Notes:
 This pattern is worked holding two strands of yarn for the en tire
pattern except for the seedlings.
 When you switch to your white yarn, you will only need a small
amount. Instead of buying two balls in order to hold two strands
together, you can use the strand from the outside while also
using the strand from the center of the ball. If you don’t feel
comfortable doing that, you can of course buy another ball.
 The ch 3 at the beginning of each round counts as a dc
 After row 2, you will always begin by double crocheting in the
base of your ch 3 and you will always end with 1 dc in the top
of the ch 3 from the previous round .
Half Circle Watermelon Rug Crochet Pattern
With your pink yarn and 6mm hook:
Create your slip knot and ch 4. Sl st to first st to create a circle.
Row 1: Ch 3, 5 dc into the circle you just created. (6 including ch
3) Ch 3, turn work.
Row 2: Dc into the base of your ch 3. 2 dc in each st across. (12) Ch 3,
turn.
Row 3: Dc into base of ch. [1 dc in next st, 2 dc in the next]. Rep [ ] 4
more times. 1 dc into the last st. (18) Ch 3, turn.
Row 4: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next two st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next two st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row. (24)
Ch 3, turn.
Row 5: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next three st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next three st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row.
(30) Ch 3, turn.
Row 6: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next four st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next four st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row.
(36) Ch 3, turn.
Row 7: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next five st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next five st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row. (42)
Ch 3, turn.
Row 8: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next six st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next six st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row. (48)
Ch 3, turn.
Row 9: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next seven st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next seven st]. Rep [ ] to the end of
row. (54) Ch 3, turn.
Row 10: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next eight st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next eight st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row.
(60) Ch 3, turn.
Row 11: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next nine st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next nine s t]. Rep [ ] to the end of row.
(66) Ch 3, turn.
Row 12: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next ten st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next ten st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row. (72)
Ch 3, turn.
Row 13: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next eleven st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next eleven st]. Rep [ ] to the end of
Row 14: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next twelve st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next twelve st]. Rep [ ] to th e end of
Row 15: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next thirteen st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next thirteen st]. Rep [ ] to the end of
row. (90)
Tie off pink yarn and attach white yarn.
Row 16: With white yarn, ch 3. Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the
next fourteen st. [2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next fourteen st].
Rep [ ] to the end of row. (96)
Switch to your green yarn the same way you did the white.
Row 17: With green yarn, ch 3. Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the
next fifteen st. [2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next fifteen st]. Rep [
] to the end of row. (102) Ch 3, turn.
Row 18: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next sixteen st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next sixteen st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row. (108)
Ch 3, turn.
Row 19: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next seventeen st. [2 dc in
the next st, 1 dc in each of the next seventeen st]. Rep [ ] to the end of
Row 20: Dc into base of ch. 1 dc in each of the next eighteen st. [2 dc in the
next st, 1 dc in each of the next eighteen st]. Rep [ ] to the end of row.
(120)
Tie off and weave in all ends.
Seedlings
(I’m using a mint green color in the pictures in order to show you the
stitch work)
With your black yarn and 5.5 mm hook:
Row 1: Ch 2, 4 hdc in the first st. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 1 hdc in base of ch and in each of the next 3 st (4). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Hdc2tog in the first two st, hdc2tog in the last two st.
Row 4: Ch 1, tie off leaving a long tail for sewing
Repeat this same pattern until you have 9 seeds.
You can attach your seeds as I did in the picture above or you can place them
in any direction that you’d like.
Using your tapestry needle, sew your seedlings into your rug weaving in and
out from back to front and going completely around your seed. Weave in your
ends into the back and cut off the excess.

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Materials:

12mm crochet hook (my hook is by Clover).

Finished rug dimensions: About 58 inches in diameter.

YO= Yarn Over

SL ST= Slip Stitch

Gauge: 3” by 3” square- 5 stitches by 5 rows- Single Crochet

this, just go straight into your next stitch)

Row 5: SC 30. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (30)

Row 9: SC 50. Join back into the first SC, CH 1. (50)

Tie off and sew in your loose ends.

US crochet terms. I am left-handed so the photos will show work from a LH

Starting with the back leg

(back foot) ch4,

work 4dc into the 4th ch from the hook

work scs in Round 4. See Picture 6 in Round 4**

sl into same st of Round 2, 2sl, sl to join.

Sl into next 9sts, 4sc,

3hd in 3rd ch from hook,

2tr, dc, in next ch, sl into next st of Round 3

At last it begins to look like a Squirrel

(head) ch3, sl in 3rd ch from hook,

Working into the gap between: 4sc, hd, sc.

Switch to orange yarn

Rnd 4: ch 1, 12sc around; join with sl st into first sc. (12sts)

Stuff head with polyfil.

Make two pieces.

Start ear using black yarn to make a magic loop.

Switch to orange yarn

Rnd 4: ch 1, 8sc around; join with sl st into first sc. (8sts)

Switch to orange yarn

Switch to orange yarn

 US F5/3.75mm Crochet Hook

 Rounds are worked in continuous spirals, do not join or turn.

Using body color, Ch 2.

Assemble the Fish

The Magnetic Hook

Using crochet thread (size 5 cotton) and a size "B" hook.

Insert the magnet into the middle of the crocheted piece.

What You'll Be Creating

Yarn (I use Special DK by Stylecraft) in

Work six single crochet into the ring.

2. Crochet the Other Baskets

 Red basket - five rounds for the base/sides; 30 stitches

Enjoy Your Nesting Baskets

and provide them with a stimulating learning experience.

Click the button below to add this to your Ravelry queue:

Ch 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

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