1.

Engine Compartment

-An engine compartment is part of an aircraft where electrical components, connectors, and other
special technical wirings are found which are supposedly maintained and checked daily.

Here are some tips on how to clean the engine compartment:

 Electrical components, connectors, fuses, and bus bars—These items need to be well
protected. It’s fairly easy to introduce electrical gremlins by spraying water and chemicals willy-
nilly around these components; plus, a strong spray of water can pull a wire or connector out of
place.
 Alternators and starters—The electrical components of these are typically vented to assist in
cooling. Those vents are excellent paths for water and cleaning agents. There are also sensitive
bearings inside to watch out for.
 Vacuum pumps—The typical general aviation dry vacuum pump must remain dry in order to
function properly. Lubrication relies on dry carbon from the pump vanes to assist in smooth
sliding of the vanes in the hub slots. Normally, the exhaust port on the pump is well protected
from water, oil, or other foreign materials. One shot of water up that tube can ruin you day,
and it may take some time before the failure surfaces.
 Breather tubes, fuel system vents, fuel injectors, and air intakes—Carefully protect all paths
that air is supposed to flow to and from the engine. Filters should be protected as well, because
many of them rely on oils that are impregnated into the material to catch dust and dirt.
 Hinges, bushings, and bearings—Your goal may be to remove excess oil from the outside of the
crankcase or oil pan, but there are a lot of other components around that need their lubricating
grease and oil left intact. So, don’t just spray solvent everywhere possible. Be very targeted in
your application.
2. Removal of Accessories
UNDER ENGINE OVERHAUL

-An overhauled engine is an engine which has been removed, disassembled (torn
down), cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary and tested using factory service
manual approved procedures. The procedure generally involves honing, new piston
rings, bearings, gaskets, oil seals.
OVERHAUL PROCEDURES
1. Prepare the engine for removal
2. Remove the engine
3. Engine disassembly
4. Removal of the accessories
5. Carburetor
-Detach the throttle control (may not be present on all models). Two screws hold it to the carburetor.
Replace these screws so they will not get lost.
-Disconnect the throttle linkage and governor spring noting which holes they go in.IMPORTANT: If
you get this screwed up you could have a runaway situation on your hands when you go to restart it.
6. Muffler
-Remove the muffler
-If the muffler comes off intact, inspect for serious corrosion, holes, or other damage and figure on
replacing it if needed.
7. Flywheel
-Thread the flywheel nut back onto the shaft and then protect it with a rag or paper towel secured with
an elastic band
8. Ignition
-This can be left in place but will be susceptible to damage
9. Cylinder head
-Use the proper size spark plug or deep socket to remove the spark plug counterclockwise. Inspect the
spark plug and threads in the head for damage
10. Valves
-You should only need to do this if you are replacing or grinding a valve. In most cases, the valves are
undamaged but may appear in poor condition due to carbon buildup - which can be removed in-place
fairly easily
11. Oil sump/crankcase cover
-Check the crankshaft for burrs at the blade lock key or other key and/or where any front wheel drive
pulley setscrew was tightened.
12. Camshaft/camgear
-Remove the camshaft driven plunger type oil pump. This is in two sections which have a definite
relationship (the flat faces out). Inspect for damage and set aside.
13. Connecting rod
-Rotate the crankshaft so that the rod bolts or nuts are accessible
14. Piston
-Remove any carbon ridge you find at the top of the cylinder. This will catch the rings and prevent
you from removing the piston or if force is used, break the rings.
15. Crankshaft
-Lift while rotating the crankshaft out of the top bearing. There should be no resistance
16. Breather
-The breather allows the pressure inside the crankcase to vent to the outside and should result in
negative pressure inside as this contains a (leaky) one-way valve.
17. Oil seals
-Do not remove the oil seals unless you intend to replace them. If oil leakage has not been a problem
and you don't think any damage resulted from removing the crankshaft, leave them alone. It should be
possible to replace the oil seals after reassembly if oil leakage turns out to be a problem.
18. Detailed inspection
-A complete overhaul can restore a small engine to like-new condition. Any parts that are found to be
damaged or out of tolerance are repaired or replaced.
19. Engine reassembly
-If any filing, sanding, or grinding was involved, make sure all traces of abrasives have been removed
from every part. The best approach is to clean with soap and water or mild detergent and dry
thoroughly. Then immediately coat all ferrous parts with engine oil to prevent rust.Engine reassembly
20. Engine installation
-It will be easier to tighten the flywheel nut to the recommended torque once the engine has been
reinstalled on the mower. Therefore, now is a good time to install the engine to the mower deck.
21. Initial post-overhaul testing
-Assuming you didn't make any mistakes, the engine should start on the first pull. As you start it, look
and listen for any abnormalities and immediately stop it if any are detected