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Practical Workbook

Textile Finishing
Lab Experiments

Authors
Engr Shamshad Ali
Engr Mazhar Hussain Peerzada

Edited by
Engr Zeeshan Khatri

Department of Textile Engineering


Mehran University of Engineering and Technology, Jamshoro
2008
Copyright © 2008. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
any form or by any means (electronic or mechanical
photocopying and recording) without prior written permission of
authors.

Edition.……………………………………………………………………...1st

(2008)

Authors..………..…………... Engr Shamshad Ali / Engr Mazhar

Hussain Peerzada

Printed by………………………………….

…………………………………………

Available at……………………………………………..

……………………………..

ii
Rs. 90/-

Dedicated to Prof. Abdul Razak Samo...

iii
Preface
The authors are pleased to publish this practical workbook on Textile
Finishing for undergraduate students of Textile Engineering.

The Textile Finishing (Lab Experiments) is a basic book designed for


laboratory experiments. The primary emphasis is made on the chemical
testing of the major chemical finishing agents used by the Textile mills of
the country coupled with their application techniques. This book includes
the description of continuous and exhaust methods for the application of
various finishing chemicals onto the textile substrate. Owing to the growing
concern onto the shrinkage of fabrics, one experiment related to the
Dimensions Stability of Textiles is also incorporated.

This book contains thirteen laboratory experiments and five appendices. All
experiments contain a brief statement of performance objectives, a
theoretical discussion (on which the experiment is based on) and a detailed
procedure (to conduct experiment). At the end of each laboratory
experiment some review questions (related to the experiment) are given for
encouraging students to think critically about the experiment and
conclusions drawn from the results obtained. In appendices, testing related
diagram, general safety instructions and a model test paper are given.

SHAMSHAD ALI
MAZHAR HUSSAIN PEERZADA

iv
Acknowledgements
This is our first and foremost duty to pay our heart-strings gratitude to the
“ALMIGHTY ALLAH”, the most merciful for giving us the average devotion
to complete this workbook.

We wish to express our deep and sincere appreciation and thankfulness to


Engr. Zeeshan Khatri (Managing Associate, TEXCON Textile Consulting
Services Karachi) for his profound interest in editing this workbook.

We are thankful to Engr. Sirajuddin Memon (General Manager, Popular


Fabrics Private Ltd, Karachi) for extending his untiring co-operation to the
completion of this workbook. The contents of the workbook are the brain
child of him.

Thanks are also reserved to our class fellow Engr. Awais Khatri for sparing
his valuable time to review the workbook in its raw state and gave some
important suggestions.

v
MEHRAN UNIVERSITY
OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY JAMSHORO

Foreword

I am highly encouraged to learn that Mr. Shamshad Ali and Mr. Mazhar
Hussain Peerzada, Lecturers in the Department of Textile Engineering,
are bringing out a practical workbook titled as Textile Finishing (Lab
Experiments) which is self explanatory and simple to understand.

This is an appreciable effort made by the authors of this book.

vi
Prof Dr A Q Khan Rajput
Vice Chancellor
Mehran University of Engineering &
Technology
Jamshoro Sindh Pakistan

Certificate

This is to certify that, Mr / Miss


……………………………………………………………………, bearing Roll Number
………………………., has successfully completed the necessary practical work
of the subject, ………………………………………………………………., as per
course outlines for the ……………………………............................................

Subject Teacher

vii
Date: ………………………..

viii
Contents

Preface iv
Acknowledgements v
Foreword vi
Certificate vii

1. APPLICATION OF SOFTENERS 01
To Apply Softener on Fabric By Exhaust & Continuous
Methods

2. EVALUATION OF SOFTENERS 06
To Evaluate Softening Agents for Their Performance

3. APPLICATION OF STIFFENERS 08
To Apply Stiffeners on Fabric By Continuous Method

4. EVALUATION OF STIFFENERS 12
To Evaluate Stiffening Agents for Their Performance

5. APPLICATION OF RESIN FINISHES 15


To Apply Resin Finish on Cotton Fabric By Continuous
Method

6. EVALUATION OF RESIN FINISHES 20


To Evaluate Resin Finishes for Their Performance

7. APPLICATION OF OIL & WATER REPELLENT 25


FINISHES
To Apply Oil & Water Repellent Finishing Agents on
Fabrics By Continuous Method

8. EVALUATION OF OIL & WATER REPELLENT 28


AGENTS
To Evaluate Oil and Water Repellent Finishing Agents for
Their Performance

9. APPLICATION OF ANTI-PILLING FINISH 31


To Apply Anti-pilling Agents on Fabric By Continuous
Method

vii
10. EVALUATION OF ANTI – PILLING AGENTS 34
To Evaluate Anti-pilling Agents for Their Performance

11. APPLICATION OF FLUORESCENT 38


BRIGHTENING
AGENTS (FBAs)
To Apply FBAs on Fabric by Exhaust & Continuous
Methods

12. EVALUATION OF FBAs 42


To Evaluate FBAs for Their Performance

13. FABRIC DIMENSIONAL STABILTY 46


To Assess the Dimensional Stability of Cotton Fabric (ISO-
6330)

Appendix – A 49
MARKING OF FABRIC SPECIMEN

Appendix – B 51
WASHING PROCEDURES

Appendix – C 49
DRYING PROCEDURES

Appendix – D 51
NECESSARY SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Appendix – E 51
MODEL TEST PAPER

viii
Lab Experiment 01

APPLICATION OF SOFTENERS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Apply Softener on the Fabric By Exhaust & Continuous


Methods

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of soft finishes and its classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine, Exhaust machine and
Dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of Softening Agents.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Softening Agents, Acetic Acid, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance,


Padder Machine, Exhaust Machine and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

Softening is a complex phenomenon and is a combined effect of surface


smoothness and internal lubrication of the fiber elements of the treated
fabric.
The softened fabric is fluffy and has better drape. The application of
softener improves the abrasion resistance and tearing strength of the fabric
coupled with reduction in thread breakage.

The softening agents can be classified as follows:


1. Anionic Softeners.
2. Cationic Softeners.
3. Non-Ionic Softeners.
4. Amphoteric Softeners.

1
The application of chemical finishes onto the textile fabrics can be carried
out through:
1. Continuous Process, and 2. Exhaust Process.
The sequence of operation in continuous process, for the application of
chemical finishes is as follows:
Pad------------Dry-------------Cure (Optional, Depends upon the Finishes)

Stenter machine is widely used for the continuous application of chemical


finishes onto the textile fabrics. Continuous process is normally preferred
for Long-Run. It is a high speed process when compared against Exhaust
Process. Continuous process also offers less water consumption than
Exhaust Process.

Exhaust Process is selected for Short-Run. It is a slow speed process and


comparatively utilizes more water than continuous process. The exhaust
process can be carried out in the following ways:
1. Open-width Form …………… Jiggers.
2. Rope – Form ………………... Winches, Jets & Soft Flows.

The softener can be applied alone or with other chemical finishing agents
such as “RESIN”..etc. Mostly FBAs applied on cotton are anionic and are
therefore highly compatible with anionic softening agents.
It is worth remembering that the use of softeners can reduce the rubbing
fastness of synthetic fibers dyed with Disperse Dyes; as the fatty surface
layer tend to attract the dye molecules on the surface of the fabric after hot
treatments.

Important Note
Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of softener to be used along with the
precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath solution and substrate
has to be taken into account, as they can influence significantly on the
application and performance of softener. The pH of the finishing liquor
should be adjusted with acetic acid to 4.5-5.0.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
(oC)
Padding
FIRST Ambient ______ 70
20 g/l Softener 1

2
SECOND
20 g/l Softener 2

THIRD
20 g/l Softener 1
20 g/l Softener 2

__________ ______
Drying 130 90

Note:
For the selection of softener, Refer Table: 1.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 70% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.
5. Finally dry the sample in oven dryer at 130C for 90 seconds.

TABLE : 1

Commercial
Class Chemical Nature
Products
Ceranine L ……
Clariant
Non-Ionic, Polyethylene
Softener 1 Perapret
Emulsion
PE2……..BASF
Turpex ACN…...….Ciba
Ceraperm MW …..
Non-Ionic, Modified Clariant
Polysiloxane, Micro- Ultratex
Softener 2
emulsion FMW……….Ciba
Siligen SIS ……...…
BASF

Batch wise Recipe & Process Parameters

3
Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re L:R
(Min:)
( C)
o

FIRST
0.25 % Softener 1

SECOND
Batch wise 40 30 1 : 20
0.5 % Softener 1

THIRD
1.0 % Softener 1

__________ ______
Drying 40 100

Note:
For the selection of softener, refer the Table: 1.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Set the temperature at 40oC on exhaust machine.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Keep the fabric in the finishing liquor for 30 Minutes.
5. Finally dry the sample in oven dryer at 40C for 100 minutes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the Softening Agents used along with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedures & Parameters.

4
Observations & Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. How softener improves the softness of the fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

5
________________________________________________________________________

2. Write down the merits and demerits of cationic softening agents?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Distinguish between the Continuous and Batch wise Processes in


Finishing?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.
Lab Experiment 02

EVALUATION OF SOFTENERS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate Softening Agents for their Performance

Performance Objectives

6
Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of softening
agents.
ii. Learn how to calculate the solid content in a softener.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics of a softener treated
article.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Softening Agents, 1 % NaOH, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance,


pH Meter / Strip, Petri Dish / Aluminum Foil, Top Loading Washing Machine.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

Prepare a 10% solution of the softener by dissolving 10 grams of


softener in 100 ml of distilled water. Check the Physical Appearance,
solubility and pH of that solution.
To calculate the solid content in the softening agent, take 1 gram of
softener in the Petri dish / Aluminum Foil, note down the weight, and then
place it in the dryer for 60 Minutes at a temperature of 105 oC so that the
water molecules present in the emulsion will evaporate. Finally, weigh the
Petri dish / Aluminum foil again, and calculate the amount of residue left in
it.
In order to check the specific gravity of the softener, fill the RD-
Bottle with distilled water and weigh it on the electronic weighing balance
(W1 in grams). Similarly, fill the RD-Bottle with softener and weigh it on the
electronic weighing balance again (W2 in grams). The following relation will
determine the specific gravity of the softener.

Specific Gravity = W 2 ÷ W1

One of the requirements of a softener is its ability to be stable in the


alkaline medium. To comprehend the same, we prepare 1 % solution of
NaOH and take it in the Burette. One the other hand, we prepare a 1 %
solution of softener in a conical flask. During the titration, we check the
emulsion break / precipitation of the softener solution in the conical flask.
As the emulsion breaks / softener solution precipitates, we note down the
pH of the solution in the conical flask and the amount of 1 % NaOH
consumed in ml.
2. Performance Evaluation :

After the application of the softener, we will check the Hand Feel of the
treated fabric, whether
the softener modifies the handle of the article or not and the degree of that.

7
Also, we have to measure the effect of softener on the tear strength,
pilling & abrasion resistance of the treated fabric and the washing
durability of the softener after at least 3 washes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

Solubility of 10 % Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Specific Gravity

Compatibility with Alkali

Performance Evaluation:

8
Test Un- Recipe –
Parameters Recipe - 2 Recipe – 3
Method Treated 1

Handle

Abrasion
Resistance

Tear Strength

Washing
Durability

Pilling

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

9
Review Questions

1. Which type of softening agent is used with OBAs?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Can the softener be added in the Resin Finish Solution?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Why is it necessary to check the alkaline stability of softener?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

10
Lab Experiment 03

APPLICATION OF STIFFENERS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Apply Stiffeners on Fabric By Continuous Method

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of Stiff Finish and its classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine and Oven dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of Stiff Finishes.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Stiff Finish, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, Padder Machine


and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

Chemicals that make the stiffer or bulkier feel of fabric are called “Hand
Builders”. Starch and Poly vinyl Alcohol are the most common water
soluble film forming polymers which serves as non-durable Hand Builders.
Starched fabrics have a greater consumer appeal than limp fabrics. They
improve the cutting and sewing operations since stiff fabrics are easier to
manipulate than limp fabrics.
Durable stiffeners are used to improve the aesthetics of Rayon Fabrics. They
are limp and raggy & are very much improved with melamine resins. They
can also be used to increase the fabric weight and abrasion resistance.
Thermo-setting and Thermo-plastic polymers can serve as Durable
Stiffeners.

11
Polyvinyl Acetate Emulsion finds many applications in finishing of cotton
and man-made fibers. It is more transparent than starch and so can also be
used for colored goods. It is also resistant to mildew attack.

Important Note

Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of stiffener to be used along with the
precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath solution and substrate
has to be taken into account, as they can influence significantly on the
application and performance of stiffener.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
( C)
o

FIRST
20 g/l PVA

SECOND
Padding Ambient ______ 70
40 g/l PVA

THIRD
60 g/l PVA

__________ ______
Drying 120 60
__________
Curing 180 60 ______

Note:
For the selection of PVA, Refer Table: 2.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 70% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.

12
5. Dry the sample in oven dryer at 120C for 60 seconds.
6. Finally, cure the sample in the oven dryer at 180C for 60 seconds.

TABLE : 2

Commercial
Class Chemical Nature
Products

Non-Ionic, Polyvinyl Acetate Appretan EMJ-P ….


PVA
Dispersion, Durable. Clariant

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the Stiff Finish used with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedure & Parameters.

13
Observation and results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________
Review Questions

1. How Starch acts as a Stiffening Agent?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Why synthetic stiffeners are preferred over starch?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. What is the effect of PVA on the weight of fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

14
________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

15
Lab Experiment 04

EVALUATION OF STIFFENERS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate Stiffening Agents for their Performance

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of Stiff Finish.
ii. Learn how to calculate the solid content in Stiff Finishes.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics of a Stiffener treated
article.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Stiff Finish, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, pH Meter / Strip,


Petri Dish / Aluminum Foil, Top Loading Washing Machine.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

Prepare a 10% solution of the Stiff Finish by dissolving 10 grams of


stiffener in 100 ml of distilled water. Check the Physical Appearance,
solubility and pH of that solution.
To calculate the solid content in the Stiff Finish, take 1 gram of
Stiffener in the Petri dish / Aluminum foil, note down the weight, and then
place it in the dryer for 60 Minutes at a temperature of 105 oC so that the
water molecules present in the emulsion will evaporate. Finally, weigh the
Petri dish / Aluminum foil again, and calculate the amount of residue left in
it.

2. Performance Evaluation

16
After the application of the Stiff Finish, we will check the Hand Feel
of the treated fabric, whether the Stiffener modifies the handle of the article
or not and the degree of that.
Also, we have to measure the effect of Stiff Finish on the Pilling &
weight “GSM” of the treated fabric and the washing durability of the Stiff
Finish after at least 3 washes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

Solubility of 10 %
Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Performance Evaluation:

Test Un- Recipe – Recipe -


Parameters Recipe - 2
Method Treated 1 3

17
Handle

GSM

Pilling

Washing
Durability

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. How does Stiff Finish alter the Pilling propensity of the fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Describe the importance of determining the solid content of PVA?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________
18
3. Define how PVA act as filler?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

Lab Experiment 05

APPLICATION OF RESIN FINISHES

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Apply Resin Finish on Cotton Fabric By Continuous


Method

Performance Objective

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of Resin Finish and its classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine and Oven dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of Resin Finishes.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

19
Resin Finish, MgCl2, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, Padder
and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

Fabrics made from Cotton and Viscose Rayon readily wrinkles and unlike
Wool and Silk materials, do not shed the creases even after a long and
relaxed storage period. In cellulosic materials, on wrinkling, the molecular
chains in the amorphous regions slip past each other breaking the weak
hydrogen bonds. The stretched chains then form hydrogen bonds in the
stretched places and thus the fabric holds the creases. Mechanism of the
crease recovery process in Cellulosic Fibers is based on introducing stable
cross-links so as to prevent slippage of molecular chains.
Under mild alkaline conditions, Urea and Formaldehyde react to initially
produce mono- and Dimethylol Urea. These intermediate products condense
to form a thermo-setting Resin under hot acidic conditions. The methylol
compounds are very reactive and the polymerization reaction is stabilized
via controlling the pH of the solution. Soaping with detergent and soda ash
follows to remove the fishy odour. The treatment imparts good crease
recovery, however, reduces the flexibility of the fibers and made the treated
fabric stiff causing a considerable loss in tear strength. Further, during
laundering with detergent that contain chlorinated bleaches, the chlorine
absorption turns the fabric yellow and also causes loss of strength due to
the generation of HCL.
Due to the mentioned shortcomings, Melamine is used as a substitute of
Urea. But failed to achieve the desired results.
“Reactant” resins react directly with OH-groups on the cellulosic chains to
form cross-links. The important members are: DMEU (Dimethylol Ethylene
Urea), DMDHEU (Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea), Dimethylol Ethyl
Triazone, Carbamates…etc. Presently, DMDHEU and its derivatives are the
most popular crease recovery agents and constitute about 80% of the total
quantity of the C.R chemicals.
The main objection to the use of DMDHEU is the presence of a small
quantity (200-400 ppm) of Formaldehyde that may possibly be released in
usage.

Important Note

Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of resin to be used along with the
precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath solution and substrate
has to be taken into account, as they can influence significantly on the
application and performance of resin.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

20
Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
(oC)

FIRST
40 g/l RESIN
6 g/l MgCl2

SECOND
100 g/l RESIN
Padding Ambient ______ 70
15 g/l MgCl2

THIRD
100 g/l RESIN
10 g/l MgCl2

__________ ______
Drying 120 90
__________
Curing 150 180 ______

Note:
For the selection of Resin, Refer Table: 3.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 70% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.
5. Dry the sample in oven dryer at 120C for 90 seconds.
6. Finally, cure the sample in oven dryer at 150C for 180 seconds.

TABLE : 3

Commercial
Class Chemical Nature
Products
RESIN Arkofix NEC Plus ..
Modified N-methylol DHEU Clariant
(Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea) Knittex FEL ……...….
Ciba
Fixapret F-ECO ……

21
BASF

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the Resin Finish used with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedure & Parameters.

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

22
______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. Define the term Cross-Linking?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. What do you mean by “Resin”?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Write down the importance of controlling Formaldehyde content of


finished fabrics?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

23
Lab Experiment 06

EVALUATION OF RESIN FINISHES

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate Resin Finish for their Performance

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of Resin Finish.
ii. Learn how to calculate the solid content in Resin Finish.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics of a Resin Finish treated
article.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Resin Finish, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, pH Meter / Strip,


Petri Dish / Aluminum Foil, Top Loading Washing Machine.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

Prepare a 10% solution of Resin Finish by dissolving 10 grams of


Resin in 100 ml distilled water. Check the Physical Appearance, solubility
and pH of that solution.
To calculate the solid content in the Resins, take 1 gram of Resin in
the Petri dish / Aluminum foil, note down the weight, and then place it in the
dryer for 60 Minutes at a temperature of 105oC so that the water molecules
present in the emulsion will evaporate. Finally, weigh the Petri dish /
Aluminum foil again, and calculate the amount of residue left in it.
In order to check the specific gravity of the resin, fill the RD-Bottle
with distilled water and weigh it on the electronic weighing balance (W 1 in
grams). Similarly, fill the RD-Bottle with resin and weigh it on the electronic
weighing balance again (W2 in grams). The following relation will determine
the specific gravity of the softener.

24
Specific Gravity = W 2 ÷ W1

2. Performance Evaluation :

After the application of Resin Finish, we will check the Hand Feel of
the treated fabric, whether the Resin modifies the handle of the article or
not and the degree of that.
Also, we have to measure the effect of Resin Finish on the tear
strength, light fastness & crease recovery angle of the treated fabric and
the washing durability of the Resin after at least 3 washes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

Solubility of 10 %
Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Specific Gravity

25
Performance Evaluation:

Test Un- Recipe – Recipe - Recipe –


Parameters
Method Treated 1 2 3

Handle

Crease Recovery
Angle

Tear Strength

Light Fastness

Washing
Durability

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

26
Review Questions

1. Why MgCl2 is used in the recipe of Resin Finish?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Can OBAs be used along with Resin Finishing Agents?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Which type of softening agent is added in Resin Finish, Describe?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

27
Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

Lab Experiment 07

APPLICATION OF OIL & WATER REPELLENT

FINISHES

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Apply Oil and Water Repellent Finishing Agents on


Fabrics
By Continuous Method

Performance Objective

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of Oil & Water Repellent Finish and its
classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine and Oven dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of Oil & Water Repellent Finishes.

28
Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Oil & Water Repellent Finish, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance,
Padder Machine and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

Water repellent fabrics are those which resist being wetted by water,
water drops will roll off the fabric. A fabric's resistance to water will depend
on the nature of the fiber surface, the porosity of the fabric and the dynamic
force behind the impacting water spray. A fabric is made water-repellent by
depositing a hydrophobic material on the fibers surface. However,
waterproofing requires filling the pores as well. Wetting can be evaluated by
measuring the contact angle formed by the intersection of the surface of
the solid and the tangent of the arc surface to the drop. Higher the contact
angle lower will be the wet-ability of the liquid and vice versa.
Oil Repellency is tested by placing a drop of oil on the fabric and
observing whether the drop resides on top the fabric or whether it
penetrates. A homologous series of hydrocarbons decreasing in surface
tension is used to rate the fabric's oil repellency. The hydrocarbon with the
lowest surface tension to remain on top and not penetrate is indicative of
the fabric's repellency. The lower the surface tension of the liquid, the
better the fabric's resistance to oily stains.
For fabrics to be water repellent the critical surface tension of the fiber's
surface must be lowered to about 24 to 30 dynes/cm. Pure water has a
surface tension of 72 dynes/cm so these values are sufficient for water
repellency. Oil repellency requires that the fiber surface be lowered to 13
dynes /cm. Only fluorochemicals are able to function as oil repellents so
whatever is mixed with them must not interfere with how they are
deposited.
The oldest and most economical way to make a fabric water repellent is to
coat it with paraffin wax. The major disadvantage of wax water repellents is
poor durability. Wax is easily abraded by mechanical action and wax
dissolves in dry cleaning fluids. It is also removed by laundry processes.
Wax finishes are usually co-applied with durable press reactants which also
add to the repellent's durability while imparting durable press properties.
Silicones are more durable than wax repellents but less durable than
fluoro-chemical finishes. Silicone finishes resist water borne stains but not
oil borne stains. Fluorochemical repellents are unique in that they confer
both oil and water repellency to fabrics. The ability of fluorochemicals to
repel oils is related to their low surface energy which depends on the
structure of the fluorocarbon segment, the non-fluorinated segment of the
molecule, the orientation of the fluorocarbon tail and the distribution and
amount of fluorocarbon moiety on fibers.

29
Important Note

Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of Oil and Water Repellent Finish to be
used along with the precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath
solution and substrate has to be taken into account, as they can influence
significantly on the application and performance of Oil and Water Repellent
Finish.
The water and oil repellency of fabrics can be impaired if the substrate
contains residues of oils, sizing agents, surfactants and / or dyeing
assistants.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
( C)
o

FIRST
40 g/l Fluoro
Carbon

SECOND
Padding 60 g/l Fluoro Ambient ______ 70
Carbon

THIRD
80 g/l Fluoro
Carbon

__________ ______
Drying 110 90
__________
Curing 150 180 ______

Note:
For the selection of Fluoro Carbon, Refer Table: 4.

Procedure/Method

30
1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.
2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 70% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.
5. Dry the sample in oven dryer at 110oC for 90 seconds.
6. Finally, cure the specimen at 150oC for 180 seconds.

TABLE : 4

Commercial
Class Chemical Nature
Products
Nuva FD ………….
Clariant
Fluoro Dispersion of a fluorine Oleophobol CO …..….
Carbon compound. Ciba
Ultratex TXC …...….
BASF

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the Oil & Water Repellent Finish used with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedure & Parameters.

31
Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. Distinguish between water repellency and water proofing?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Describe the merits of Fluoro-chemical Repellents over Si-based


Repellents?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Enlist the demerits of wax-emulsion repellents?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

32
Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

Lab Experiment 08

EVALUATION OF OIL & WATER REPELLENT


AGENTS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate Oil and Water Repellent Agents for their


Performance

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of Oil and Water
Repellents.
ii. Differentiate between oil and water repellency.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics
of Oil and Water Repellent treated articles.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Oil & Water Repellent Agent, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance,
Spray Tester , Washing Machine and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

33
Prepare a 10% solution of Oil & Water Repellent Finishing Agent by
dissolving 10 grams of it in 100 ml distilled water. Check the Physical
Appearance, solubility and pH of that solution.
To calculate the solid content in the Oil & Water Repellent Finishing
Agent, take 1 gram of the finishing agent in the Petri dish / Aluminum foil,
note down the weight, and then place it in the dryer for 60 Minutes at a
temperature of 105oC so that the water molecules present in the emulsion
will evaporate. Finally, weigh the Petri dish / Aluminum foil again, and
calculate the amount of residue left in it.
In order to check the specific gravity of the Oil & Water Repellent
Finishing Agent, fill the RD-Bottle with distilled water and weigh it on the
electronic weighing balance (W1 in grams). Similarly, fill the RD-Bottle with
Oil & Water Repellent Finishing Agent and weigh it on the electronic
weighing balance again (W2 in grams). The following relation will determine
the specific gravity of the Finishing Agent.

Specific Gravity = W 2 ÷ W1

2. Performance Evaluation :

After the application of Oil & Water Repellent Finishing Agent, we will
check the Water Repellency of the treated fabric, whether the Finishing
Agent improves the hydrophobicity of the article or not and the degree of
that.
Also, we have to check the Oil Repellency of the substrate by
applying various oils having different values of surface tension.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

34
Solubility of 10 %
Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Specific Gravity

Performance Evaluation:

Test Un- Recipe –


Parameters Recipe - 2 Recipe - 3
Method Treated 1

Handle

Water
Repellency
(Before Wash)

Water
Repellency
(After 3rd Wash)

Oil Repellency

35
Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. Define Contact Angle?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Discuss the influence of surface tension of fiber onto the oil & water
repellency ratings?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

36
________________________________________________________________________

3. Describe the merits of Si-based repellents over wax-emulsion


repellents?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results before leaving the
laboratory.

Lab Experiment 09

APPLICATION OF ANTI – PILLING FINISH

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

37
To Apply Anti – Pilling Agents on Fabric By Continuous
Method

Performance Objective

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of Anti-Pilling Finish and its classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine and Oven dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of Anti-Pilling Finishes.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Anti-Pilling Finish, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, Padder


Machine and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

Pilling is a condition exhibited by certain fabrics made from spun yarns.


Spun fabrics made up from 100% synthetic fibers, that is, Acrylic and
Polyester, or blends of PC are prone to pill. Pill formation is a function of
rubbing against the fabric so pills are mostly found in garment areas where
rubbing is most prevalent, that is, areas near pockets, collars and cuffs.
When the surface of a fabric is rubbed, pills developed because abrasion
cause fibers to twist into fuzz balls. Fabric surface hairiness is a condition
brought about by hairy yarns.
Experiments have shown that most 100% Cotton fabrics are not prone to
develop objectionable pilling. The reason for this is because Cotton anchor
fibers are relatively weak. Some fabric constructions made with PC blend
yarns will exhibit severe pilling (satin and stripe satin). When these pills are
magnified, the anchor fibers are seen to be Polyester filaments. The strong
Polyester anchor fibers do not break off easily so pills continue to build up
and not wear away.
Finishing with binders will improve the pilling performance of all fabrics.
Whenever the final fabric hand will allow, the binding agents are considered
as a universal solution. Resin Finish applied to some fabrics also produces
dramatic improvement in pill ratings. However, they have very little effect
on conventional Polyester fabrics.
The process of Heat-setting to fabrics containing thermo-plastic fibers is
often beneficial in improving pilling performance. Singeing and Shearing
are the methods of reducing fabric hairiness. Pill ratings are improved
because of the reduced hairiness.
Fabric softeners will increase the pilling propensity of a given fabric, when
applied after dyeing and / or in the finish bath. Laundry added softeners will
also impair the pilling resistance of a fabric.

38
Important Note

Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of Anti-Pilling Agent to be used along
with the precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath solution and
substrate has to be taken into account, as they can influence significantly on
the application and performance of Anti-Pilling Agent.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
( C)
o

FIRST
20 g/l Binder

SECOND
Padding Ambient ______ 70
40 g/l Binder

THIRD
60 g/l Binder

__________ ______
Drying 120 60
__________ ______
Curing 180 60

Note:
For the selection of Binder, Refer Table: 5.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 70% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.
5. Dry the sample in oven dryer at 120C for 60 seconds.
6. Finally, cure the sample in the oven dryer at 180C for 60 seconds.

TABLE : 5

Chemical Nature Commercial Products

39
Class

Appretan 3450 …....


Anionic, Self-cross linking
Clariant
Binder Acrylate
Binder PMS … World
co-polymer dispersion.
Chem.
Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the Anti-Pilling Finish used with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedure & Parameters.

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

40
______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. Suggest an ideal sequence of singeing process for 100% cotton


fabric processing?

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

2. Write down the effect of denier value of PES on fabric Pilling?

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

3. Describe the influence of weave structure on the fabric pilling?

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

41
Lab Experiment 10

EVALUATION OF ANTI – PILLING AGENTS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate Anti – Pilling Agents for their Performance


Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of Anti-Pilling
Agents.
ii. Learn how to calculate the solid content in Anti-Pilling Agents.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics of Anti-Pilling treated
article.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Anti-Pilling Agent, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, pH Meter /


Strip, Petri Dish / Aluminum Foil, Top Loading Washing Machine.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

Prepare a 10% solution of Anti-Pilling Agent by dissolving 10 grams of


it in 100 ml distilled water. Check the Physical Appearance, solubility
and pH of that solution.
To calculate the solid content in Anti-Pilling Agent, take 1 gram of it
in the Petri dish / Aluminum foil, note down the weight, and then place it in
the dryer for 60 Minutes at a temperature of 105 oC so that the water
molecules present in the emulsion will evaporate. Finally, weigh the Petri
dish / Aluminum foil again, and calculate the amount of residue left in it.
In order to check the specific gravity of the Anti-Pilling Agent, fill the
RD-Bottle with distilled water and weigh it on the electronic weighing
balance (W1 in grams). Similarly, fill the RD-Bottle with Anti-Pilling Agent
and weigh it on the electronic weighing balance again (W 2 in grams). The

42
following relation will determine the specific gravity of the Anti-Pilling
Agent.

Specific Gravity = W 2 ÷ W1

2. Performance Evaluation :

After the application of Anti-Pilling Agent, we will check the Hand


Feel of the treated fabric, whether the Anti-Pilling Agent modifies the
handle of the article or not and the degree of that.
Also, we have to measure the effect of Anti-Pilling Finish on the Pilling
resistance of the treated fabric before and after wash along with the
washing durability of the Anti-Pilling Finish after at least 3 washes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

Solubility of 10 % Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Specific Gravity

43
Performance Evaluation:

Test Un- Recipe – Recipe – Recipe –


Parameters
Method Treated 1 2 3

Handle

Pilling
Resistance
(Before & After
Wash)

Washing
Durability

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

44
Review Questions

1. The application of softener impairs the pilling ratings, Elaborate the


statement?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Describe the effect of Heat-Setting process on fabric Pilling?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Enlist the methods employed to improve the pilling of Polyester /


Cotton blend fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

45
Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

46
Lab Experiment 11

APPLICATION OF FLUORESCENT BRIGHTENING


AGENTS

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Apply FBAs on Fabric By Exhaust & Continuous


Methods

Performance Objective

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the concept of FBAs and its classification.
ii. Learn how to operate the Padding machine, Exhaust machine and
Oven dryer.
iii. Understand the chemistry of FBAs.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

FBAs, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, Spectrophotometer,


Padder Machine, Exhaust Machine and Oven Dryer.

Discussion/Theory

They are used to brighten not only Textiles but also paper, plastics and
leather and also an important constituent of house hold detergents. The
FBA emits light in the blue-violet region of the visible spectrum and is
substantive to the substrate for which it is intended. The product should be
free from un-desirable side effects, such as staining on adjacent fabrics.
The FBA absorbs light at a wavelength b/w 340-380 nm and emits light b/w
425-450 nm. FBAs are available for application to all types of substrate such
as anionic FBAs for application to Cellulose in the presence of added salts,
anionic types for application to Nylon and Wool in the presence of acid;
disperse types for application to Polyester.
FBAs are applied to Cotton in the manner of Direct dyes. By far the most
common are DAST (Triazinyl derivatives of DiaminoStilbenedisulphonic

47
acid) types. They are usually chosen for application to Cotton in conjunction
with Resin Finish. In these uses the FBA must show appreciable resistance
towards the catalyst such as MgCl2, used to cure the resin and mild acidic
conditions (pH = 4).
If padding process is used to brighten the PC fabric, both PES and CT
brighteners may be applied from the same pad bath, even a resin finish can
simultaneously be applied to the CT portion of the blend. Violet or blue-
violet dyes are sometimes used in combination with FBAs. These are added
to convert the yellow background of the fabric to a perceived grey look.
Traces of heavy metal ions such as iron and copper have an adverse
influence. The presence of salts such as sodium chloride or sodium sulphate
has been claimed to confer a positive effect on the solution of FBAs. Anionic
surfactants have almost no influence on the performance of anionic FBAs on
Cotton. Cationic surfactants would be expected to have a negative effect in
most cases.
Important Note

Before performing the practical, one must know the composition and
construction of the substrate, type of FBA to be used along with the
precautions such as “Temperature and pH” of bath solution and substrate
has to be taken into account, as they can influence significantly on the
application and performance of FBA. The working solution of an FBA should
be protected against light.

Padding Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re Pick-up%
(sec:)
(oC)

FIRST
1 g/l FBA

SECOND
Padding 1.5 g/l FBA Ambient ______ 80

THIRD
2 g/l FBA

__________ ______
Drying 120 90

Note:
For the selection of OBA, Refer Table: 6.
48
Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Adjust the pressure of squeezing rollers at 80% pick-up.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Pad the fabric in finishing liquor.
5. Finally dry the sample in oven dryer at 120C for 90 seconds.

TABLE : 6

Class Chemical Nature Commercial Products

Leucophore BMB 2000 ..


Anionic Stilbene Derivative. Clariant
FBA
Uvitex BAM …………..…..
Ciba

Batch wise Recipe & Process Parameters

Temperatu
Time
Process Recipe re L:R
(Min:)
( C)
o

Batch wise FIRST 40 90 1 : 20


0.1 % FBA

SECOND
0.15 % FBA

THIRD

49
0.2 % FBA

__________ ______
Drying 40 100

Note:
For the selection of softener, refer the Table: 6.

Procedure/Method

1. Cut the sample of fabric to be finished.


2. Set the temperature at 90oC on exhaust machine.
3. Prepare the finishing liquor in accordance with the recipes as
mentioned above.
4. Keep the fabric in the finishing liquor for 30 Minutes.
5. Finally dry the sample in oven dryer at 40C for 100 minutes.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) The name of the FBA used with Recipe.
(b) Fabric Type and Construction.
(c) Application Procedure & Parameters.

50
Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________
Review Questions

1. Describe the effect of FBAs on the wavelength of reflected light?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. What is the effect of chlorine bleach on Fluorescent Brightened


fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

51
________________________________________________________________________

3. Define Fluorescence?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

Lab Experiment 12

EVALUATION OF FBAs

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Evaluate FBAs for their Performance

Performance Objectives

52
Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of chemical testing of FBAs.
ii. Learn how to check the pH stability of the FBA solution.
iii. Evaluate the performance characteristics of FBAs treated article.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

FBAs, Beaker, Stirrer, Electronic Weighing Balance, pH Meter / Strip, Petri


Dish / Aluminum Foil, Spectrophotometer, Top Loading Washing Machine.

Discussion/Theory

1. Chemical Testing :

Prepare a 10% solution of FBA by dissolving 10 grams of it in 100 ml


distilled water. Check the Physical Appearance, solubility and pH of that
solution.
To calculate the solid content in the FBA, take 1 gram of FBA in the
Petri dish / Aluminum foil, note down the weight, and then place it in the
dryer for 60 Minutes at a temperature of 105oC so that the water molecules
present in the emulsion will evaporate. Finally, weigh the Petri dish /
Aluminum foil again, and calculate the amount of residue left in it (Only
applicable for liquid FBAs).
In order to check the specific gravity of the FBA, fill the RD-Bottle
with distilled water and weigh it on the electronic weighing balance (W 1 in
grams). Similarly, fill the RD-Bottle with FBA and weigh it on the electronic
weighing balance again (W2 in grams). The following relation will determine
the specific gravity of the softener.

Specific Gravity = W 2 ÷ W1

2. Performance Evaluation :

After the application of FBA, we will check the CIE Whiteness of the
treated fabric, whether the FBA improves the whiteness of the article or
not and the degree of that.
Also, we have to check the Chlorine fastness, Light fastness and
washing durability (At High Temperature) of treated article.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:

53
Chemical Testing:

Parameters Observations

Ionic Character

Physical Appearance

Solubility of 10 % Solution

pH of 10 % Solution

Solid Content

Specific Gravity

Performance Evaluation:

Test Un- Recipe –


Parameters Recipe - 2 Recipe – 3
Method Treated 1

54
CIE Whiteness

Chlorine
Fastness

Light Fastness

Washing
Durability

Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

55
1. Write down the method of instrumental assessment of fabric
whiteness?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Write down the effect of domestic home laundering on the durability


of OBA treated fabric?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. State the light fastness of OBAs, applied on 100% Cotton and 100%
Polyester fabrics?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

56
Lab Experiment 13

FABRIC DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

Name: _________________________________________ Roll Number:


___________________

Score: ________ Signature of the Lab Tutor: _______________________ Date:


______________

To Assess the Dimensional Stability of Cotton Fabric (ISO


6330 – 2A)

Performance Objectives

Upon successful completion of this practical, the student will be able to:
i. Understand the importance of Shrinkage phenomenon in Textile
Fabrics / Garments.
ii. Learn how to operate the Front Loading washing machine and
Tumble Dryer.
iii. Differentiate between different fabric drying procedures.

Apparatus & Chemical Reagents

Cotton Fabric, Front Loading Washing Machine (Electrolux Wascator),


Tumble Dryer, Ruler, Conditioning Rack, Table, Detergent, Ballast and
Indelible Marker.

Discussion/Theory

1. Introduction:

It is one of the methods for the preparation, marking and measuring of


textile fabrics, garments and fabric assemblies for use in tests for assessing
dimensional change after specified treatment, e.g. washing, dry-cleaning,
soaking in water and steaming. The standard is applicable to woven and
knitted fabrics and to flat-woven, made-up textile articles. The procedures
are not applicable to articles that stretch readily in use. For example,
knitted articles and certain upholstery coverings.
Test specimens are selected to represent the bulk of the textile under
examination. Pairs of reference points are marked on each specimen and

57
the distance between each pair of reference point is measured before and
after specified treatments.

2. Preparation & Marking of Fabric Specimens:

Do not cut specimens from within one meter of either end of a piece. Cut
specimens, each measuring at least 500mm x 500 mm, with edges parallel
to the length and width of the fabric. For fabric less than 650 mm in width,
full width specimens may be used. If the fabric may possibly unravel during
the test, over lock the edges of the specimen with dimensionally stable
thread.
Place the specimen on the measuring table and make at least three pairs of
marks on it in both length and width directions. Ensure that the distance
between marks of each pair is at least 350 mm, that no mark is less than 50
mm from the edges of the specimen and that the measuring points are
regularly spaced across the specimen.(See the sketch in Appendix-A)
3. Washing Procedure of Fabric Specimens:

Weigh the specimen before washing, if they are to be tumble dried. Place
the material to be washed in the washing machine and add sufficient ballast
to make a total air-dry material load of the mass shown for the washing
procedure selected. If dimensional stability is being determined, not more
than half of the wash load shall consist of test specimens. Add sufficient
detergent to provide a good running suds having a height of not more than
(3 ± 0.5) cm at the end of the washing cycle.

4.Measurement of Fabric Specimens:

Lay the specimen flat on the smooth, flat surface and remove wrinkles with
out stretching the specimen. Place the ruler on the specimen, taking care to
avoid distortion of the specimen. Record the distance between the pairs of
marks to the nearest of 1 mm.
Calculate the changes in dimensions in both the length and width directions
as follows:

% Change In Length = Final Length – Original Length x 100


Original Length

% Change In Width = Final Width – Original Width x 100


Original Width

NOTE:

58
State whether the dimensions has decreased (shrinkage) by means of a
negative sign (-) or increased (extension / growth) by means of a positive
sign (+).

Procedure/Method

1. Determine the original length and width dimensions (reference points)


as appropriate prior
to the test.
2. Wash the specimen according to the one of the procedures specified in
ISO-6330.
(See the Appendix-B)
3. Dry the specimen in accordance with the one of the drying
procedures.
(See the Appendix-C)
3. Condition the specimen after washing & drying at 65% RH and 20 oC
Temp: for 4-6 Hours.
5. Calculate the dimensional changes of the specimen in both warp and
weft directions.

Test Report & Results

The test report / results shall include the following particulars:


(a) Fabric Type and Construction.
(b) Washing Procedure Employed.
(c) Drying Procedure.
(d) Dimensional Changes in warp & weft directions.

59
Observation and Results

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

Review Questions

1. Give the importance of dimensional stability of fabrics?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

2. Describe the influence of air-humidity (conditioning) on the fabric


shrinkage test?

60
________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

3. Explain the use of Tumble Dryer in Western countries?

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________

Final Checklist

1. Clean your apparatus and workbench before you leave.


2. Keep the apparatus back to their proper place.
3. Submit your answers to questions together with your data and results
before leaving the laboratory.

61
APPENDIX – A

MARKING OF FABRIC SPECIMEN

Minimum Dimension is 500 mm

50

350
500

50

50 350 mm 50

Note: All the dimensions are in mm.

62
APPENDIX – B

63
APPENDIX – C

DRYING PROCEDURES

S.N
Title Description
o:
Suspend the hydro extracted material from a line to dry
1 Line Dry according to the Drip-Dry Procedure.

Remove the material from the machine and without


extracting the water, suspend it from a line in still air at
RT and allow to dry.
2 Drip Dry The warp or wale direction of the material shall be
vertical. Made-up articles shall be suspended in the
direction of use.

Spread out the material on a horizontal screen drying


rack, remove the wrinkles by hand without stretching or
3 Flat Dry
distorting and allow it to dry.

Place the material on the flat bed of the press. Smooth


out heavy wrinkles by hand and lower the head of the
press, which shall be set at a temperature suitable for
4 Flat Press the material to be pressed, for one or more short periods
as required to dry the material. Record the temperature
and pressure used.

Place the hydro extracted material and the ballast


immediately in the tumble dryer. Select the drying
Tumble
5 conditions (Delicate, Normal and Permanent Press) and
Dry
drying time.

64
Appendix – D

NECESSARY SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Working with Machines / Instruments:

1. Never switch on any machine / instrument if you do not know how to


operate it. Before switching it on, always check that there is no obstacle
or person in the danger parts.

2. Be aware of all emergency stop push-buttons before switching the


machine / instrument on. Use nearest emergency switch immediately in
case of any accident. Never use emergency switches for routine shut-off.

3. Do not wear very loose clothes since loose clothing and/or wide sleeves
can easily become entangled in moving parts.

4. Do not wear/have long & loose clothes/hair and jewellery including rings
or any similar articles, which could become caught in moving parts.

5. Danger of crushing! Take particular care in the vicinity of moving


parts.

6. Danger of burns! Some parts of the machines are very hot during and
immediately after operation.

7. In the event of faults or malfunction, notify the maintenance personnel


immediately!

8. Danger of electric shock! Do not open any electrical panel while the
power is switched on.

9. Use safety articles such as mask, gloves, goggles, shoes or dress


wherever necessary.

10. Be aware of all emergency stop switches before switching the


machine / instrument on. Use emergency switch immediately in case of

65
any accident. Never use emergency switches just for switching the
machine / instrument off.

11. Be alert for any unsafe condition and notify concerned supervisor
immediately if a problem is detected.

12. Follow other particular safety instructions of the machine / instrument


given by the manufacturer.

Working with Chemicals / Reagents:

1. Necessary precautions must be taken for working with hazardous


chemicals. Hazardous information of any chemical should be checked in
Material Safety Data Sheet before use.

2. Use safety articles such as mask, gloves, goggles, shoes or dress


wherever necessary.

3. Avoid unnecessary exposure to chemicals in any way.

4. Do not smell or taste chemicals.

5. Chemicals should be stored properly.

6. Handle and store laboratory glassware with care to avoid damage; do not
use damaged glassware.

7. Carefully handle the sharps (such as needles, knives, scalpels, broken


glassware, Pasteur pipettes…etc) and place them in their approved
impervious containers or bins.

8. Thoroughly wash hands using soap immediately after working with


chemicals.

9. Appropriate apparel and low-heeled, closed-toe shoes should be worn


when handling hazardous chemicals.

10. Be alert for any unsafe condition and notify concerned supervisor
immediately if a problem is detected.

66
APPENDIX – E

MODEL TEST PAPER

Note: Attempt the following questions. Each question has equal


marks.

Q.No: 1 Fill in the blanks:

(i) Softening is a complex phenomenon of surface smoothness and


internal _________
of the fiber / yarn present in the fabric.

(ii) By the application of _________________, the GSM of a fabric can


be increased.

(iii) The pilling rating can be impaired if the fabric is treated with
_______________.

(iv) To improve the wrinkle resistance of a fabric, _____________ are used.

67
(v) _______________ is necessary after the washing and drying processes in
shrinkage

test.

Q.No: 2 Answer the following questions:

(i) Define Hand-Builders?

(ii) Why the strength of a fabric decreases after the application of


RESIN?

(iii) Explain the test procedure to check the water repellency?

(iv) Describe the advantages of Fluoro-chemical Repellents over Si-


based Repellents?

(v) Discuss the existence of strong acidic pH during the application


of OBAs?

68
About Authors

Engr Shamshad Ali is a Lab Lecturer in the Department of Textile


Engineering, Mehran University of Engineering & Technology Jamshoro. He
received his Bachelor of Engineering in the discipline of Textile Engineering
in 2003. He has been involved in teaching a number of Textile Engineering
courses such as Textile Mechanics, Applied Chemistry and Textile Finishing
since February 2007.

He has also been serving the department for some additional


responsibilities such as Incharge of Wet-Processing Laboratory (since 15
August 2007) and assisting the Incharge Chairman of the Department of
Textile Engineering in industrial liaison (since March 2007).

He served Lucky Textile Mills Ltd Karachi as a Process Engineer from


January 2006 to January 2007 and Nakshbandi Industries Ltd, Karachi as a
Senior Quality Controller from August 2003 to September 2004. He also
served National Textile College and Management Institute Hyderabad as a
Lecturer from January 2005 to December 2005.

Engr Mazhar Hussain Peerzada is a Lecturer in the Department of


Textile Engineering, Mehran University of Engineering & Technology
Jamshoro. He has been on study leave abroad since October 2007 for doing
PhD in Textiles. He taught a number of courses such as: Textile Chemistry,
Yarn Manufacturing, Fabric Manufacturing and Textile Mechanics in the
Department of Textile Engineering from September 2004 to September
2007.

In addition, he served the department as Incharge Yarn Manufacturing


Laboratory (Ring & Rotor) and as a Warden of Boys Hostel. Furthermore,
Mr. Peerzada has served the Textile Industry, Gul Ahmed Textile Mills
Karachi (March, 2003 to Sept. 2004) as Incharge in Finishing department.
His research areas are Wet-processing, Fabric manufacturing and their
development.

He received his B.E (Textile) in the year 2003 from MUET, Jamshoro.

About Editor
Engr Zeeshan Khatri has graduated in Textile Engineering from Mehran
University of Engineering & Technology Jamshoro in 2000. He started his
career in Textile QC and R&D with Yunus Textile Mills (Y B Group of
Companies) and served for two years; then he joined Institute of Textile
Technology & Management Karachi as a Head, Department of Textile. In
early 2004, he joined Lucky Tex, where he served as Technical Manager for
two years. In addition, there are 18 industrial and specialized trainings
which he has received during his career.

At present, he is a Managing Associate in TEXCON Textile Consulting


Services and has been providing consultation at GS Industries Karachi since
2005. Along with his industrial association, he has also been associated with
educational institutes as an external examiner at Mehran University of
Engineering and Technology Jamshoro and Federal Urdu University of Arts,
Science & Technology Karachi and as a visiting faculty at Institute of Textile
Technology & Management Karachi.
Apart form his basic qualification of BE (Textile Engineering), he has
professional qualifications of CText ATI, Manchester UK and CCol ASDC,
Bradford UK. In 2004, the Society of Dyers and Colourists UK awarded him
with the President’s Diploma of Honour for the most meritorious
performance in their Associatship Examinations. He has also the honour of
establishing SDC-Karachi region and of being a founder Chairman in 2004-
2005. Recently, he has been appointed as SDC Ambassador.

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