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CSR research in the apparel industry: A quantitative and qualitative review of

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DOI: 10.1002/csr.1413

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Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management
Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
Published online in Wiley Online Library
(wileyonlinelibrary.com) DOI: 10.1002/csr.1413

CSR research in the apparel industry: A quantitative

and qualitative review of existing literature
Candace L. White,1* Anne Ellerup Nielsen2 and Chiara Valentini2
1
University of Tennessee, School of Advertising and Public Relations, Knoxville, TN USA
2
Aarhus Universitet, Department of Management, Aarhus, Denmark

ABSTRACT
A quantitative and qualitative analysis of the extant literature about corporate social
responsibility in the apparel industry found that perspectives and research traditions are
underdeveloped and fragmented. Articles (n = 73) were found in 41 different journals that
spanned an array of disciplines with the majority of journals publishing fewer than three
articles on the topic. Issues concerning ethical supply chains were the most prevalent; a
primary concern is the supply chain issue of labor practices in developing countries. The
study indicates that despite growing stakeholder pressure on the apparel businesses to adopt
CSR and interact with stakeholders about CSR, there is a ‘discursive polyphony’ and
consequent confusion among consumers, which could benefit from strategic communication
management. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment

Received 9 September 2016; revised 1 December 2016; accepted 5 December 2016

Keywords: CSR in the apparel industry; CSR communication; ethical supply chain management; corporate social responsibility

Introduction

T
HE EXPANSION OF DEREGULATION AND INCREASING STAKEHOLDER PRESSURE ON BUSINESSES TO EARN THEIR ‘LICENSE TO
operate’ has spurred many companies to implement CSR strategies (Matten & Moon, 2008). The apparel
industry, in particular, has been scrutinized as a significant contributor to global and environmental issues
at all points in its supply chain (Zeller, 2012). Garment production generates waste and pollution, global
transportation of fashion goods negatively impacts the environment, producing synthetic fibers creates toxins,
and growing raw materials such as cotton and flax uses large quantities of pesticides. In terms of social cost, the
fashion industry helps create a culture of consumerism and waste. Garment manufacturing is negatively associated
with human rights, wages, and labor standards, particularly in developing countries (Ma et al., 2016).
The apparel industry was one of the first industries to be targeted by public shaming campaigns, and has tried to
respond to increasing public pressure to adopt CSR practices along all points in the supply chain. However,
adopting CSR initiatives in this industry is challenging. First, fashion and consumption are important elements
of everyday life and are components of consumer identity and social relationship building (Firat & Venkatesh,
1995). Second, because of outsourced production and cheap labor that third-world countries provide, apparel

*Correspondence to: Candace L. White, University of Tennessee, School of Advertising and Public Relations, Knoxville, TN, USA.
E-mail: white@utk.edu

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment
 C. L. White et al.

industries are able to make substantial profits for both shareholders and national economies, therefore generating
political reluctance to interfere with or to regulate the industry at the supply chain level (Hillier, 2011; Ma et al.,
2016). Compared to other industries such as energy or health that can affect public budgets considerably, political
pressure on the apparel industry is remarkably modest. Consequently, willingness to restrict over-consumption and
encourage more sustainable practices is not necessarily a priority (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009; Gwilt & Rissanen,
2011; Hillier, 2012). Despite the critical issues, there has been no comprehensive study of CSR in the apparel
industry (Mann et al., 2014).
The purpose of the current study is to begin to identify trends, patterns, and scientific knowledge in academic
research about CSR in this particular industry. Specifically, this investigation aims to identify the main research
approaches and methodologies in existing scholarly literature, as well as the prevalent issues and perspectives
articulated in the research, through a quantitative and qualitative analysis of scholarly articles. Analyses of existing
literature are valuable because they shed light on the current state of development of a specific field and provide an
understanding of the theorizing dynamics (Silva & Teixeira, 2012). Existing scholarship provides information about
the development of a field, its core practices and assumptions, and potential knowledge gaps. Because scholars tend
to build on the work of others to create new knowledge, a review of the extant literature provides a ground for
assessing the influence of specific constructs, and provides understanding of the selection of questions and methods
(van Osch & Coursaris, 2014).

Reviews of Extant Literature about CSR and CSR Communication

CSR is a broad concept embracing issues ranging from legal compliance, philanthropy, and community investment,
to environmental sustainability, workers’ rights and welfare, market relations, corruption, and corporate governance
(Blowfield & Murray, 2008). De Bakker et al. (2005) studied research and theories of CSR and corporate social
performance (CSP) over a 30-year period (1972–2002) and found that literature about CSR/CSP tends to be
cumulative, with scholars building on one another’s work to develop propositions and test theories, but also to
propose new constructs and new linkages. Alcañiz et al. (2010) employed content analysis to study the epistemolog-
ical evolution of the CSR field in relation to management and marketing disciplines. They looked at the evolution of
CSR issues the literature, and found that CSR as a core construct has progressively evolved in both knowledge fields;
yet, more theoretical-driven papers were published in the management than in the marketing field, and theoretical
papers about CSR in marketing often relied on knowledge from the management field.
Implementing corporate social responsibility into business strategy and practices represents a large spectrum of
challenges, one of which is CSR communication (Dawkins, 2004; Türkel et al., 2015). CSR communication is an
umbrella concept integrating communication about social issues in public relations, marketing communication,
management, and organizational communication (van Riel, 1995). CSR communication has become increasingly
important as a means of demonstrating and documenting that businesses not only talk about, but take action
regarding CSR. Accordingly, there is growing scholarly attention to CSR communication activities including stake-
holder engagement and dialog, CSR reporting, and participation in and adoption of international frameworks of
CSR standardization practices including audits and codes of ethic (Gray, 2001, 2006; Maignan & Ralston, 2002).
Crane and Glozer (2016) conducted a thematic review of extant literature published 1998–2013 about CSR
communication. The 30 articles and 19 books in their sample fit into themes across disciplines, which they labeled
the 4I’s of CSR communication: CSR Integration, CSR Interpretation, CSR Identity, and CSR Image. They
characterized the extant literature as studies about the purpose of CSR, audiences, theories, and paradigms, but
noted that research about CSR communication as a unified field is ‘an embryonic notion’ with little sense of
cohesion among studies.
Goodwin and Bartlett (in an unpublished study) conducted a content analysis of trends and patterns in articles in
leading communication journals published between 1998 and 2007, and concluded that research about CSR
communication has increased in quantity especially after 2000, and most of the published work has been
empirical in nature with focus on three functions: management, communication, and relationship management.
A CSR communication perspective was present in one out of three papers; those studies focused on CSR reporting,

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
CSR research in the apparel industry

new communication technologies, and CSR marketing. Golob et al. (2013) reviewed 90 articles about CSR commu-
nication extracted from two main management and business databases and found that most articles are outcome,
rather than process, oriented and primarily deal with CSR communication in relation to organizations’ disclosure
practices.
Global, high-risk industries are the most likely to cause societal harm such as environmental degradation and
human rights violations, and therefore have been among the early adopters of CSR management through
implementation of sustainability policies and accountability initiatives (van Marewijk, 2003; Scherer & Palazzo,
2007; Nielsen & Thomsen, 2009). However, the industries that are the most involved in CSR are also the ones that
are the most vulnerable to negative allegations by critical stakeholders and therefore have a greater need to
communicate their CSR initiatives to stakeholders.
No publication was found dealing with CSR communication in the apparel industry in the scholarly literature of
management and communication, including public relations, organizational communication, and marketing. Given
that the apparel industry has become increasingly concerned with CSR matters and that consumers’ expectations of
apparel companies have increased, this study aims to provide a comprehensive analysis of existing knowledge by
addressing the following research questions:

RQ1: Which types of research approaches and methodological perspectives are prevalent in studies about CSR
and CSR communication in the apparel industry?
RQ2: Which CSR issues and activities are the most studied?
RQ3: How important is CSR communication in this industry, and which approaches and perspectives are
implied?

Method
The study employed both quantitative and qualitative content analyses of scientific publications about CSR in the
apparel industry to provide an overview of the intellectual structure of the research field. Content analysis was
considered more suitable than citation (bibliometric) analysis because the latter simply informs about the
significance of a specific paper based on its citations and does not explore trends, research topics, perspectives,
and methodologies (Pasadeos, 1985; Eom, 2009; Kraus et al., 2012). Quantitative content analysis is a useful
approach when the scope of the literature review is to determine major trends in research topics, perspectives,
and methodologies (Cho & Khang, 2006; Alcañiz et al., 2010). A qualitative analysis of abstracts was also used to
enrich the quantitative findings of the first two research questions and to answer the third question. A more
in-depth textual analysis of the full text of relevant articles about the study of CSR communication in the apparel
industry was also used for the third research question.
The sample was obtained through library searches of academic databases that included Business Complete
Source, Communication & Mass Media Complete, SAGE Premier, Academic Search Premier, and ABI/INFORM
Global. The Social Science Citation Index was excluded because it does not allow searches by key words. A
broad search of papers across abstract or full text was employed (Cho & Xie, 2011). Every combination of
the following search terms was used: fashion, fashion industry, apparel industry, clothing, corporate social respon-
sibility, ethics, sustainable, sustainability, reporting, communication, public relations, news coverage, media, advertis-
ing, campaign, dialogue/dialog, engagement, involvement, and discourse. To capture all scientific articles dealing
with CSR and fashion/apparel, different terminological and spelling variations of the search terms were used.
Key words had to be present in the abstracts as a way to guarantee that the main focus of the full paper was
on topic. Only full-text articles in peer-reviewed journals written in English were included; editorials, books,
book reviews, magazine articles, and bibliographies were excluded (Ye & Ki, 2012). All relevant articles
through the end of 2015 were retrieved and downloaded. After eliminating duplicate articles that came up
in different searches, a total of 73 discrete articles were identified for analysis, which are shown in
Appendix 1.

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
 C. L. White et al.

Data Analysis
Two coders coded each abstract independently, using coding categories that have been used in previous studies
about scholarly literature (Cho & Khang, 2006; Ye & Ki, 2012; van Osch & Coursaris, 2014). To test inter-coder
reliability, 30 cases were randomly selected after coding and were found to have a 79% rate of congruence. All
coding differences in the full sample of 73 sets of code sheets were identified and reconciled through discussion
before entering the data into SPSS.
Each abstract was coded for title, year of publication, the name of journal, the main focus of the article
(communication, marketing, supply chain and production, human rights/employee treatment, management,
consumer behavior, regulation and legislation, environmental issues, and sustainability), and the research approach
(conceptual or empirical). For empirical papers, the research design (data collected at a single point in time or
longitudinal) and method (quantitative, qualitative, mixed), and the specific data collection method (survey,
experiment, case studies, interviews, focus group, ethnography/ observation, document analysis, mixed method,
other) were coded.

Results
The 73 articles that fitted the search criteria were found in 41 different peer-reviewed journals. The majority of the
journals (n = 30) had only published one article each that included any of the search terms. Only four journals had
published more than three studies: Journal of Business Ethics (n = 10), Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management
(n = 7), Journal of Corporate Citizenship (n = 6), and International Journal of Consumer Studies (n = 5). While no
restrictions were set by date in the database searches, the earliest article about CSR in the fashion industry that
appeared in the search results was published in 1999. Table 1 shows that the topic has been increasingly studied
in recent years.

RQ1: Which Types of Research Approaches and Methodological Perspectives are Prevalent in Studies about CSR and
CSR Communication in the Apparel Industry?
Of the 73 articles, 77% (n = 56) were empirical and 23% (n = 17) conceptual. For the 56 empirical articles, 52 were
cross sectional (data collected at a single point in time), and only four were longitudinal. Forty-seven percent of the
empirical articles used qualitative methodologies (n = 34), explained by a high number of case studies (n = 13). Other
qualitative methods included textual analysis of documents including websites, interviews, focus groups, and
observations, many of which were combined in mixed method studies to develop case studies. Mixed methods
accounted for a quarter of the studies (n = 18). Quantitative methods, primarily surveys (n = 11) were used for
15% of the studies.

Year Number of articles

2015 6
2014 7
2013 19
2012 21
2011 3
2010 5
2009 3
2008 5
2007 0
2006 1
2005 or earlier 3

Table 1. Year of publication

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
CSR research in the apparel industry

RQ2: Which CSR Issues and Activities are the Most Studied?
Table 2 shows the frequencies of the foci of the articles; one article could have more than one focus. Since the data
were nominal (coded 1 if the issue appeared in the article, 2 if it did not), Spearman’s rho was used to examine the
nonparametric correlations among the variables that represented the foci of the articles. Significant negative
correlations were ignored since they indicated that those issues and activities did not co-vary. Statistically significant
positive correlations were found between four pairs of variables. The issues of human rights and employee
treatment correlated with regulation and legislation, r(73) = .377, p < .002. Environmental sustainability and
consumer behavior were significantly correlated, r(73) = .298, p < .01, as were environmental sustainability and
management, r(73) = .298, p < .01, and marketing and communication r(73) = .376, p < .002.
The quantitative analysis shows that main focus of the majority of the article was supply chain management and
sustainability. For most of the articles about either of these issues, both issues were present. Qualitative analysis of
the abstracts revealed the issues and activities included in this group of studies centered around sourcing from
responsible and sustainable suppliers, waste management at all levels of the supply chain, using eco-materials,
environmental impacts such as carbon footprints and waste disposal, product life-cycle assessment, and responsible
manufacturing practices. A theme in the articles was that a responsible company is only as responsible and ethical
as the other companies in its supply chain. Most of the studies were qualitative (n = 15), predominately based on case
studies. Seven of the studies were conceptual articles.
Even though there was not a statistically significant correlation, articles about supply chain management also
included the issue of human rights and employee treatment. In these studies, the theme that a responsible company
is only as responsible as the other companies in its supply chain ranged from issues regarding environment impact to
issues that included labor practices, working conditions (sweatshops), treatment of women and young workers, and
working hours. Many of the studies were case studies of manufacturing facilities in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, India, and
China, with the focus that responsible companies must consider other companies that impact their products.
There was a statistically significant correlation between articles about human rights/employee treatment and
regulation and legislation (r(73) = .377, p < .002). Twelve of the studies in this area were empirical, including two
longitudinal studies. Qualitative analysis of the abstracts showed the studies looked at governance and oversight
of working conditions, disclosure practices, how regulations are enforced, and at standards in different countries.
Although not statistically significant, articles about human rights and regulation often included management issues.
Qualitative analysis showed these articles were concerned with oversight of working conditions, codes of conduct
affecting ethical practice, international regulatory frameworks, and ethical performance standards. Other
management issues included responsible procedures and process in fashion companies, internal governance,
ethical financial management, leadership, and personal values of managers.
The quantitative analysis shows that a large number of studies (n = 26) addressed issues about consumer
behavior, and that consumer behavior significantly correlated with environmental sustainability. Qualitative analysis
found the themes of these articles were predominantly about how perceptions, awareness, and attitudes affect
purchase intentions and buying habits. The expectations that consumers have for companies to be socially respon-
sible was also studied. Issues were consumers’ willingness to pay more for ethically-produced clothes from socially

Focus Frequency

Supply chain/production 29
Consumer behavior 26
Environmental sustainability 30
Human rights/employee treatment 17
Communication 12
Regulation/legislation/politics 12
Management 15
Marketing 7
Other 10

Table 2. Focus of the articles (articles could have more than one focus)

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
 C. L. White et al.

responsible companies, how consumers make ethical buying decisions, and whether or not awareness of the ethics
of a company and green marketing affect purchasing behaviors. Two studies looked at how consumers dispose of
clothing. The majority of the consumer behavior studies did not focus on communication to consumers, but were
presumably examining perceptions and attitudes that could be antecedents for marketing and advertising message
strategies.
CSR communication was a focus of only 12 of the 73 studies. Communication and marketing correlated with
statistical significance (r(73) = .376, p < .002). Eight of the 12 studies were cross-sectional empirical studies, two
of which were longitudinal, and two were conceptual articles. Document analysis (n = 6) was the most frequently
used methodology. The full text of the articles that were specifically about CSR communication, identified in
Table 3, were qualitatively analyzed and are discussed under the third research question.

RQ3: How Important is CSR Communication in this Industry, and which Approaches and Perspectives are Implied?
As previously stated, CSR communication is concerned with how CSR practices and activities are communicated to
and with stakeholders. Since only 12 articles in the sample had a communication or marketing focus, the short
answer to how important is CSR communication in fashion research is, No, CSR communication in research about
the apparel industry is understudied. The qualitative analysis of the full-text articles showed three themes:
identifying critical issues, reacting to negative allegations, and the need for explicit communication. (References
for the following sections are found in Table 3.)

Title Author(s) Date Journal

Corporate sustainability reporting in the apparel industry Kozlowski A, Searcy C, 2015
Bardecki M.
Assessment of leading apparel specialty retailers’ CSR Mann M, Byun S, 2014
practices as communicated on corporate websites Kim H, Hoggle K.
Dialogism in corporate social responsibility Brenna N, Merkl-Davis D, 2013
communications: Conceptualizing verbal interaction Beelitz A.
between organizations and their audiences
Assessing sustainable initiatives of apparel retailers Fulton K, Lee S. 2013
on the Internet
From conspicuous to considered fashion: A harm-chain Carrigan M, Moraes C, 2013
approach to the responsibilities of luxury-fashion McEachern, M.
businesses
Corporate social responsibility on the catwalk Jones P, Comfort D, 2012
Hillier D.
Stakeholder expectations for environmental performance Dickson M, Waters Y, 2012
within the apparel industry López-Gydosh D.
Marketing eco-fashion: The influence of brand name Yan R-N, Hyllegard K, 2012
and message explicitness Blaesi LF.
Discursive confusion over sustainable consumption: Markkula A, Moisander J. 2012
A discursive perspective on the perplexity of
marketplace knowledge
Media pressures and corporate disclosure of social Islam MA, Deegan C. 2010
responsibility performance information
Motivations for an organization in a developing country Islam MA, Deegan C. 2008
to report social responsibility information.
The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: Beard ND. 2008
A luxury niche or mass-market reality?
International Journal of
Productivity & Performance
Management
Journal of Business Ethics
Journal of Business Ethics
Journal of Fashion Marketing
& Management
Journal of Marketing
Management
Journal of Business & Retail
Management Research
Journal of Corporate Citizenship
Journal of Marketing
Communications
Journal of Consumer Policy,
Accounting & Business Research
Accounting, Auditing &
Accountability
Journal
Fashion Theory: The Journal
of Dress, Body & Culture

Table 3. Articles about CSR communication in the fashion industry

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
CSR research in the apparel industry

Identifying and Defining Critical CSR Communication Issues in the Fashion Industry
Three of the 12 studies about CSR communication focused on defining and prioritizing the most critical issues in
the fashion industry in terms of CSR. Two studies (Jones et al., 2012; Mann et al., 2014) relied on analyses of
websites to determine what issues are being addressed. Both studies, one cross-sectional and one longitudinal,
found the primary concern is the supply chain issue of addressing labor practices, particularly in under-developed
countries. Labor issues were addressed on all of the websites in both samples. The second issue in importance was
reducing environmental impact at all levels in the supply chain, which was not addressed on all web sites. Since the
fashion industry relies on several steps in the supply chain, it is difficult for one company in the chain to be sure that
all others have the same level of social responsibility. Jones et al. (2012) ask how a retailer can speak (on its websites)
to the CSR practices of all the various brands it might sell. Mann et al. (2014) noted that commitments to CSR may
be more aspirational than actual, and that little external analyses exist to corroborate claims made by companies on
their websites.
In a survey of scholars who study corporate responsibility in the fashion industry (87 members of a professional
association), Dickson and Eckman (2006) also found that labor practices were the primary concern that scholars are
writing about, followed by consumerism and environmental protection. Other issues were commitment to
employees and contributions to communities. The scholars note that defining social responsibility was a
three-dimensional concept that balanced ethics with profit, and emphasized business strategies and actions that
had positive outcomes for people and the environment.

Reaction to Negative Allegations

The second theme found in the textual analysis addressed how the fashion industry has been increasingly
scrutinized as a contributor to global environmental and social issues. Four of the 12 studies looked at how fashion
companies are communicating their responses to negative allegations concerning industry-related social and
environmental infractions. Labor practices in third world areas generated the greatest amount of negative media
coverage. The three empirical studies used web site and document analysis, and one study included interviews with
managers with document analysis. All the studies found the companies were reactive, rather than proactive, in their
responses and in their environmental disclosures.
Islam and Deegan (2010) found a correlation between negative media attention and positive social and
environmental disclosure, with particularly significant results in relation to labor practices. In a separate study in
2008, the same researchers looked at the reporting practices of a garment export organization in Bangladesh. They
found that media reports make consumers and other stakeholders in the global community aware of issues, and
consumers in turn put pressure on companies to respond. The study looked at changing stakeholder expectations
that are linked to annual report disclosures, and found that negative media attention influences increased reporting
and positive behaviors, albeit reactive.
The third study with this theme looked at dialogic approaches to communication on CSR reports and press
releases found on company websites (Brenna et al., 2013). The researchers found three dialogic strategies –
turn-taking, inter-party moves, and inter-textuality – were used by companies to counteract negative allegations by
Greenpeace. They conclude that CSR communication must be based on interaction and negotiation to resolve or
reduce conflicts. These studies, however, seem to assume that all important stakeholders are actually reading
websites.
A conceptual article with this theme (Carrigan et al., 2013) considered the harmful outcomes linked to luxury
fashion marketing and how those concerns can be addressed. Harms at the production and pre-production
levels include environmental damage, negative impact to animals used for fur and leather, and poor labor stan-
dards. Harm at the consumption level includes consumers aspiring to buy goods beyond their means which
fuels debt and excess credit, as well as negative self-esteem and body image; harm at the post-consumption stage
includes conspicuous consumption creating social division, increased crime (counterfeiting and theft of luxury
goods), and finally waste. Harm is co-created among governments, designers, suppliers, marketers, retailers,
and consumers. The authors argue that the luxury fashion industry cannot afford to ignore the ethical scrutiny
and negative media exposure about these issues, and should react to it through increased regulation and
communication.

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
 C. L. White et al.

The Need for Explicit CSR Communication

The third theme addressed the value of CSR communication. Four studies about CSR communication indicated
confusion surrounding the discourse about different aspects of CSR in the fashion industry. Two of these studies
looked specifically at communication about eco-fashion and sustainable apparel goods (Beard, 2008; Fulton &
Lee, 2013). The first study used websites to determine how sustainability issues are communicated, and found that
the United Nation’s Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) was the most useful framework to assess sustainability issues
along the supply chain, which is difficult to determine. The second (conceptual) article looked at the rise of
eco-fashion and the rhetoric that surrounds it. The author concluded that eco-fashion is based more often on
branding and marketing that on actual sustainable and ethical practices of the companies. They noted that many
phrases such as fair trade, organic, recycled, and vintage are used to persuade consumers and give them reasons
to buy (guilt politics), and note that these promotional strategies often confuse consumers.
Two other studies examined confusion about the discourse surrounding CSR communication (Markkula &
Moiosander, 2012; Yan et al., 2012). The first study used an experimental design with college students to investigate
brand name and message explicitness on attitude of the brand and purchase intention, and found that participants
had a limited awareness of the sustainability impacts of clothing. The researchers concluded that attitudes and
purchase intention increased when the information about CSR was explicit. Existing environmental commitment
was also a strong indicator of purchase intention, but committed consumers wanted very explicit information about
environmentally-friendly apparel brands. The second study, based on interviews with consumers, examined the
‘knowledge-to-action’ gap in discourse surrounding CSR communication, and found that consumers face a
perplexity of information and ‘discursive polyphony’ (Markkula & Moiosander, 2012) that causes confusion among
consumers who strive for more sustainable consumption practices. Often, consumers are not sure what sustainable
consumption entails. The results of these studies indicate that regarding CSR in the fashion industry, companies
need to educate as well as communicate.

Conclusion and Implications

This overview of the state of scholarship about CSR in the apparel industry provides more than descriptive
indicators since it focuses on analysis and understanding how scholars conceptualize and study CSR, which
contributes to the construction of an industry-specific CSR agenda. More than two-thirds of the articles in the
sample have been published since 2012, which seems to support that CSR research in the apparel industry has
appeared at a late stage compared to CSR and CSR communication research in general (e.g., Carroll & Shabana,
2010; Nielsen & Thomsen, 2011), but is of growing importance as an emerging and much needed area of study.
A general integration of CSR into the overall strategy of businesses in the industry seems scarce. Stakeholder theory
suggests that companies need to understand the concerns and aspirations of their stakeholders, and that these con-
cerns should be reflected in communication and corporate strategy.

Managerial Implications
The results show that, not surprisingly, supply chain management with specific focus on human rights and labor
and employee treatment is a major concern throughout the apparel industry. The issue of supply chain
management is, and has for several years been, the most important issue for corporations who have outsourced
their production to third world countries. It is also the most challenging CSR issues for businesses to handle due
to problems of surveillance and control over processes and activities along the supply chain, not to mention the
diversity of cultural and social practices across borders. Stories of sweatshops and bad working conditions in distant,
poorly-maintained production plants in the media evoke suspicion among publics and critical activists. (An example
is the criticism of garment makers following media coverage of the collapse of the Rana Building in Bangladesh in
2013, containing several apparel factories and causing harm to more than 2500 people.) The problem of supply
chain management as a recurring CSR issue will require global political, economic, and corporate efforts to
mitigate.
From a consumer perspective, a fashion company is only as socially responsible as the other companies in its
supply chain, and therefore strategic communication about CSR practices along a company’s supply chain are
imperative to manage criticism from stakeholders. Efforts to promote ethical treatment of workers and sustainable

Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Mgmt. 2017
DOI: 10.1002/csr
CSR research in the apparel industry

practices at all points of production should be explicitly communicated, and communication must be proactive
rather than reactive to media reports. Other major CSR issues found in the study were environmental sustainability
management and consumer perceptions, attitudes, and behaviors in terms of evaluating or increasing purchase
intention, all of which have implications for stakeholder engagement and the development less ambiguous
marketing communication.

Theoretical Implications
The broader perspectives that can be drawn from mapping CSR issues in the apparel industry is that CSR research
is anchored in CSR management where issues of risk and compliance are at stake. The question of how consumers
react and respond to CSR efforts and communication is less often studied; the stakeholder and societal perspectives,
or the communicative dimension of engaging stakeholders in dialog, are research areas not yet specifically
addressed in the fashion and apparel industry.
The results suggest that CSR communication is highly understudied, but when it is studied, it encompasses a
broad variety of issues such as communicating CSR on websites, addressing stakeholder criticism, and explicit
CSR communication as a driver for taking the industry a step further. In the small number of studies that were
found, CSR communication research is still dominated by either a reputation management strategy or as a reactive
approach to respond to stakeholders’ concerns.
In conclusion, the study indicates that in spite of growing stakeholder pressure on the apparel industry to adopt
CSR and interact with stakeholders about CSR, the research seems to confirm two critical points: (1) there is a
fragmented picture in the scholarly literature leaving no clear and consistent approach to CSR in the apparel
industry, which is indicated by the wide variety of publication outlets, as well as a ‘discursive polyphony’ and
consequent confusion among consumers; and, (2) in spite of the range of critical CSR issues to be addressed by
apparel producers and retailers, they seem to have chosen a laggards’ position, echoing other industries and
competitors rather than taking the lead as first movers or early adopters themselves.
The major challenges of that are worthy of future research may be grouped in two major streams. The first
stream calls for more comprehensive attention to communication management and consultancy, aiming at
mapping and investigating the structuring, organizing, implementing, and documenting of CSR processes and
practices in the production and sourcing phases of the industry. The second stream points to how CSR is
communicated. The reactive approach of the industry to adopt CSR from a more comprehensive perspective may
thus be explained by the tacit hesitation of businesses, politicians, and consumers to address the urge to consume,
which can be a barrier to promoting more sustainable living patterns in everyday life and adjusting the world
economy in this direction. Accordingly, future research should investigate more general conceptual and
fundamental CSR issues in the fashion industry including addressing the embedded dilemma of encouraging
consumers to over-consume as a motive for increasing profits, as well as exploiting cheap labor for the same reason,
while striving to gain public and social legitimacy for the ethical urge to do good.

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