DIY Garage Base Cabinets

These garage base cabinets have a few clever storage options to optimize your garage shop space.
The pull out tray and storage cubbies can be mixed and matched to fit your needs. Each cabinet is
30” wide so you can link together one, two or more to fill your space. And at just 20-1/4” deep
they are perfect for working garages to keep floor space open.

The two cabinets can be made from two sheets of ¾” plywood and one sheet of ¼” plywood. Add
another ¾” sheet for the top or use a solid wood or store bought counter top. Either way it will be
a great addition to your garage shop!

Have fun building something awesome!

-Brad

Click Here to see the full Blog Post and Build Video

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Parts List

Part Description Qty Dimensions Material

A Side 4 33” x 19-1/4” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
B Horizontal Support 8 28-1/2” x 3” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
C Bottom/Shelf 3 28-1/2” x 19-1/4” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
D Toe Kick 2 30” x 3” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
E Leveling Foot Block 8 3” x 3” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
F Drawer Slide Spacer 4 18” x 2” x 1/4“(or 2 at 1/2”) ¼” Plywood
G Drawer Side 2 16-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 3/4“ ¾” Plywood
H Drawer Front/Back 2 26-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
I Drawer Bottom 1 26-1/2” x 18” x 1/4" ¼” Plywood
J Cabinet Back 2 30” x 30” x 1/4" ¼” Plywood
K Door 4 29-3/4” x 14-7/8“ x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
L Shelf 1 28-1/2” x 15-3/4” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
M Door Cubby Side 8 7-3/4” x 2-3/4” x 3/4” ¾” Plywood
N Door Cubby Bottom 4 11-1/4” x 2-3/4” x 3/4” ¾” Plywood
O Door Cubby Bottom Slat 8 12-3/4” x 1-1/2” x 1/4" ¼” Plywood
P Door Cubby Top Slat 8 12-3/4” x 1” x 1/4" ¼” Plywood
Q Top 1 58-1/2” x 19-1/2” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
R Front Trim 1 60” x 1-1/2” x 3/4" ¾” Maple
S Side Trim 2 19-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 3/4" ¾” Maple
T Long Spacer 2 58-1/2” x 3” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood
U Short Spacer 2 13-1/2” x 3” x 3/4" ¾” Plywood

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Cutting Diagram

2 Sheets 4’x8’ - 3/4“ Plywood

7-3/4” each

B
2-3/4” N M M B
B
each N M M B
B B 3” each
B
B
A L

A C K

7-3/4” each
3” x 3” each
2-3/4” N M M
each N M M E E E E E E E E G
1-1/2” each
H
D
D
A C

A C K

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Cutting Diagram

6’ Maple 1x4

1-1/2” S S
each R

4’x8’ - 3/4“ Plywood

U U
3” each T
T

4’x8’ - 1/4“ Plywood

1” each P
1-1/2”
O
each

2” each F

I J J

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Build Instructions: (Read all steps before starting)
Cabinet “A”
(Full Shelf with Pull Out Tray/Drawer)

Step 1: Use two sides (A) cut to size. Cut out a notch A
for the toe kick on the bottom front of each side.

Step 2: Use two horizontal supports (B) and the

A bottom/shelf (C) cut to size. Join the sides together
with 1-1/4” pocket screws . All future pocket hole joints
will be assembled with 1-1/4” pocket screws unless
C noted otherwise.

Step 3: Use two horizontal supports (B) cut to size.

Attach horizonal supports (B) flush with back of cabinet.

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Build Instructions: (Read all steps before starting)

Step 4: Use a toe kick (D) cut to size. Attach with glue
and brads. Drill series of holes for shelf pins using drill
bit to match shelf pin diameter.

Note: If you want to run one toe kick for the group of
two or more cabinets it can be attached after install.

Step 5: Use four leveling foot blocks (E) cut to size. Lay
the cabinet on its top and attach the blocks to the front
and back of the lower support with glue and brad nails
or screws. Install your choice of leveling feet. For tips
on how to use 5/16” t-nuts and carriage bolts for
leveling feet see the video on the blog post.

Step 6: Use four drawer slide spacers (F) to shim out

the outer sides of the cabinet for the drawer slides. The
¼” shims are stacked two deep and attached to the
sides with glue and 1” brad nails or countersunk screws.
Spacers are set back 1/16” from the front of the drawer F
and lower spacers are 1/4” off the lower supports as
seen in the inset.
1/16”

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Build Instructions

G
H
Step 7: Use two drawer sides (G) and two drawer
front/backs (H) cut to size. Using brads and glue,
assemble the drawer. H
G

Step 8: Use one drawer bottom (I) cut to size. Using

brads and glue, attach the drawer bottom (I) to drawer
sides (G) and drawer front/back (H).
I
Optional: Use a 45 degree chamfer router bit to chamfer
a bevel on the side of drawer bottom (H). This hides the
plywood bottom when viewed from the side and is only
for looks.

Step 9: Install drawer using full extension drawer slides.

The slides are mounted flush with the bottom of the
drawer slide spacers. The drawer is spaced 1/4” off the
cabinet bottom and drawers are mounted flush with the
bottom of the drawer slides.

J
Step 10: Use a cabinet back (J) cut to size to fit the
cabinet. Rest the cabinet face down and run glue
around the back edges. Along the back sides secure
with brad nails and run countersunk 1-1/4” wood
screws into the top and bottom edges. Secure the
bottom first then square up the cabinet before
attaching the top and sides.

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Build Instructions

Step 11: Use a bottom/shelf (C) cut to size. Install in

cabinet using shelf pins. Shelf may need to be trimmed
to width to fit the style shelf pins you use. C

Step 12: Cut two doors (K) to size. Measure and cut
K your doors to fit the cabinet as you’ve built it. Sizes
K shown are based on an 1/8” between panels, 1/8”
spacing between the top and bottom of the cabinet.
Install door hardware per manufacturer
recommendations.

Cabinet “B”
(¾ Shelf with Door Cubbies)

Step 13: Assemble cabinet B as you did Cabinet A. Drill

series of holes for shelf pins using drill bit to match shelf
pin diameter. These holes are set back further to
accommodate the smaller ¾ shelf.

Step 14: Use a shelf (L) cut to size. Install in cabinet

using shelf pins. Shelf may need to be trimmed to
width to fit the style shelf pins you use.

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Build Instructions: (Read all steps before starting)

Step 15: The door cubbies are designed to fit snug

against the hinges and not interfere with the door
opening. If you make then wider or deeper be aware of P
M 6"
interference with the other door during opening.
3 1/2"
M N
Attach two door cubby sides (M) and one door cubby
bottom (N) with pocket screws. Attach door cubby O
bottom slat (O) and top slate (P) with brad nails.

Step 16: Install doors onto cabinet. To handle the extra

weight of the cubbies you will likely need to add a third
hinge on each door. Check the weight limits of your
hinges if you have any doubts. Attach cubbies to doors
with angle brackets.

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Build Instructions
Step 17: Cut the top (Q) to size and drill pocket holes along the underside of the front and sides. Attach top
front trim (R) first (leaving trim slightly longer than needed on both sides). Then attach two top side trims (S) to
the sides, clamping firmly to the front trim while attaching. Trim the front trim (T) flush with a handsaw.

S
R

(Top turned upside down)

S

Step 18: Use two long spacers (T) and two short spacers (U) cut to size. Secure the spacers to the top with 1-
1/4” screws and glue.

(Top turned upside down)

Step 19: Center top on cabinet base and secure it

with 1-1/4” screws from underneath through each of
the horizontal supports (B) and into the long spacers
(T). Apply finish of your choice or leave unfinished.
Level the cabinet with the leveling feet then mount to
the wall with screws through the mounting cleats (B).

Head over to the post on FixThisBuildThat.com for a

companion build video and blog post with tips and
tricks on this project!

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Resources
Click here for direct links to the items below
Tools Used Materials/Supplies
• Accu-Cut -Kreg • (3) 4'x8' 3/4" Plywood
• Corner Clamps- Kreg • (1) 4'x8' 1/4" Plywood
• K4 Pocket Hole Jig- Kreg • (1) 1”x4” 6’ Maple
• Cabinet Hardware Jig- Kreg • (2) 18" Drawer Slides
• Miter Saw Stand • (5 pair) 110 degree euro hinges
• Flip Top Tool Stand • (4) door pulls
• Spindle Sander • (4) 5/16" t-nuts
• 18V Router • (4) 5/16"x2" carriage bolts
• Pull/Flush Cut Saw • 1-1/4" pocket screws
• Countersink bit • 1-1/4" wood screws
• Water based Poly

Click Here for More of My Furniture and Shop Plans

Patio Cooler / Grill Cart Flip Top Tool Stand

for two tools

Mobile Miter Saw Station Shoe Storage Bench

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