How To Make A Bra - Your Personal Fitting Guide PDF

How To Make A Bra: Your
Personal Fitting Guide

_______________________________________
Discover How To Get A Perfect Fit For

Your Unique Size and Shape
What’s Inside
____________________
How To Make A Bra: 4
Your Personal Fitting Guide 4
Note on Bra Styles 5
Step 1 - Determine Your Size 6
De-Mystifying Bra Sizing 6
Actually Measure Yourself 7
How To Work Out Your Cup Size 8
Size Ranges 9
Step 2 – Making a Muslin 10
How To Make A Muslin 10
Keep Your Muslin 11
Keep Your Pattern Pieces 11
What To Do When It Doesn’t Fit 11
How To Check The Fit 12
Do I Need To Change Size? 13
What Is A Sister Size? 13
What Adjustments Do I Need To Make? 14
Step 3 – Muslin Adjustments 15
Narrow or Broad Shoulders 15
Petite Armscye 16
Add or Remove Length from Back Bands 16
Gaping under the Arm or Underbust 17
Adjusting Bridge Width 18
Hook and Eye Width 19
Adjusting Cup Volume 19
Using Foam as Lining 20
Removing Underwire 20
2-iece Cups vs 3-piece Cups 20
Stitch and Needle Tips 23
What If Your Muslin Fit, But Your Final Bra Doesn’t? 23
Good Luck and Have Fun! 25
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How To Make A Bra:
Your Personal Fitting Guide
____________________
Sewing a bra might look tricky, but most of the steps are relatively simple. You just follow the tutorial step-
by-step and voila, at the end you have a bra… However, the tricky bit is getting the perfect fit for your
body!
Every person is unique and every single one of us has slightly differently shaped bones on our ribcages,
different levels of muscle definition over the bones, differently shaped mammary glands, differing levels of
fat and differing ratios of fat to muscle.
Two people who weigh identical amounts can be

totally different shapes. And with bra fitting, two
people who fit the exact same cup size might have a
completely different shape as well.
Breastfeeding, exercise, food, reconstruction,

surgeries, pregnancies, health, hereditary factors,
lumpiness, time of the month, smoking and sooooooo
much more can shape (and reshaping!) your breasts
and breast tissue.
And just as each person is unique, so is each bra

pattern!
There’s a few different drafting and grading methods that can be used for bras. None of them are ‘right’ or
‘wrong’. They’re just different and give different results.
You may find the way one designer grades fits you perfectly, straight out of the starting gates. And you may
find some patterns fit your shape better than others.
However, given how wonderfully unique we all are,

no matter how any bra pattern is designed or graded, you are likely to need
to do a few adjustments to get the absolutely perfect fit for your body.
And that’s where we are here to help! Read on and discover all our favorite tips and adjustments for
getting that perfect fit for you…
Happy sewing (and bra making!),
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© Copyright 2019 R E B E C C A P A G E by rebecca-page.com
Note on Bra Styles
Before we get started, just a quick side note….
There are a several main bra styles – underwired, non-underwired, nursing, and sports bras. There are
also numerous specialist bras like push-ups, balconette, convertible, strapless and many more.
In this guide we deal with the main fitting issues that are relevant to most bras only. If you are sewing a
specialist bra, check with the pattern to see any specialist advice.
And on that note, there will also be different advice given by different designers depending on the
experience of their testers (the people who try the pattern before it’s released to the public) and the
drafting & grading method they used.
This is an outline guide only. Please make sure to check the specific pattern you are using and follow the
specific advice for that pattern.
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Step 1 - Determine Your Size
Now you may have been wearing the same bra size for years and/or have been measured by numerous
specialists, but this does NOT mean you will be the same size that you’re currently wearing in the pattern
you are following.
Sizing and cup sizes will vary by designer and by country so please measure fresh and work out your size
for THAT pattern, before you cut into your fabric!
De-Mystifying Bra Sizing

It can be a bit confusing how to measure yourself, and what to do after that.
Not only might you be a significantly different size in the bra pattern you are
using to the ready-to-wear bra size you buy in shops… but your body shape
might mean that you actually fit a sister size rather than the size you
measured.
Confusing?!
For sure! Let’s work through it step-by-step…
Most bras come with both a band size and a cup size.
BAND SIZES
The band size determines how big or small the bra is around your ribcage.
If you put your hands either side of your ribs and feel for the bottom edge of your bra running around your
body, this measurement is your ‘underbust’. This is your band size.
You don’t need to do any calculations. Just measure that underbust line around your body, and whatever
the measurement is, that is your band size. Nice and easy!
EG if your measurement around your underbust is 34 inches, then ’34’ is your band size.
Note - some patterns measure in inches, others in cm, either is great. Just make sure to use whatever your
pattern calls for.
The goal is to have your bra sitting flat against the skin along this line so when you measure, you need to
hold the tape measure snug and flat against your body (not cutting in or hurting, just the same snugness as
you want your bra to fit).
Your band size is the YELLOW LINE on the mannequin above
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Note – Most patterns go up in 2-inch band size increments. That means the band measurements on the
pattern will jump from 32 inches, to 34 inches, to 36 inches etc. If you measure anything except bang on the
band measurement, keep a note of this as you’re likely to need to adjust the band slightly for it to fit to
perfection.
CUP SIZES
Your cup size requires a bit of calculating, but don’t worry, once you get the hang of it it’ll make perfect
sense!
First you need to measure your ‘full bust’ measurement. This is the widest part of your bust.
EG if your measurement around the fullest part of your bust is 38 inches,

Then your full bust measurement is 38 inches.
Your ‘full bust’ size is the BLUE LINE on the mannequin above
Next you need to actually measure yourself, then we’ll calculate your cup size.
Actually Measure Yourself

Now you get the theory, it’s time to get your tape measure out…
Getting the measurement as accurate as possible right from the start makes such an epic difference to the
fit you’ll get. Take your time with this bit and make sure you’ve got your measurement spot on.
1. To get an accurate measurement, make sure you’re

wearing a supportive bra without padding and preferably
with underwire. This is so that you know your breasts are
fully supported and aren’t slumped against your skin. You
might want a different fit to the bra you are wearing in your
final garment, but this is just to get your measurement
accurate.
2. Also make sure your tape measure is accurate. Dress

making tape measures are not all made equal and can
stretch and deteriorate over time. Get a metal or plastic
ruler out and check your tape measure measurements
match those on the static ruler.
On the next page is our measurement guide video for the Rebeca Page Bianca Bra on how to measure
your band and cup size. The measurement process should be the same for nearly any bra pattern but do
make sure to check the pattern you are using to make sure.
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Watch our step-by-step ‘how to measure’ video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAmwiSh4Ybo (2 mins 34 sec)
How To Work Out Your Cup Size

Your cup size is the difference between your underbust and full bust measurement.
Please see the chart below on how to calculate your cup size. This is easiest to work out in inches if you can
as it’s nice round numbers.
Difference between your Underbust

Cup
and your Full Bust measurement
Size
(in INCHES)
AA 0.5
A 1
B 2
C 3
D 4
E 5
F 6
G 7
H 8
I 9
J 10
K 11
L 12
M 13
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Eg if your underbust is 34 inches, and your full bust is 38 inches, the difference between the two is 4 inches
(38 – 34 = 4). This would make you a D cup using the chart above.
Note – Again, please check the sizing in the pattern you are using to ensure they use the same underbust to
full bust calculation.
Size Ranges
The range of cup and band sizes available in any pattern will vary by designer. Some do a full range
(meaning every single cup size is available in every single band size), others do a selection of either what’s
most popular or what works with the specific design.
Below is the cup and band chart from the Rebecca Page Bianca Bra pattern.
As you can see, every single cup size is available with every single band size. This means you can try the cup
and band size you measure at, and if your shape means it doesn’t work, then you can try the next cup size
up or down.
CUPS AND BANDS IN INCHES
Band
Cup Size
Size
28 aa a b c d e f g h I j k l m
CUPS AND BANDS IN CM
Band
Cup Size
Size
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Step 2 – Making a Muslin
Once you’ve determined your band size and your cup size, you can start sewing. But before you cut into the
beautiful, treasured (or even heirloom!) fabric you’re planning to make your bra out of, you’ll need to make
a muslin.
What’s a muslin?
A muslin is a test garment out of inexpensive or surplus fabric
The reason for making a muslin is to try out the pattern and see where it fits, or doesn’t fit.
Occasionally you’ll get lucky with a bra muslin and it’ll fit like a glove. If it does, you can finish it up nicely
and you’ve got yourself an unexpected extra bra. But most of the time, your muslin is your learning
experience of what and how you need to adjust the pattern to fit your personal shape.
How To Make A Muslin

Firstly, make sure to use fabric with similar properties as the
one you’ll be making your actual bra from. If you’ve got lots of
the same fabric you’ll be making your final garment out of, you
can use this. But be aware, if the fit needs lots of adjustments,
you may want to make a second muslin to check your
adjustments. So ensure you’ve got enough fabric to not run
out.
Secondly, take a look through the tutorial for the pattern you
are making and follow the main steps to sew your pattern
pieces together. You do not need to do all the finishings. Just
the main steps to put the pieces together so you can try them
on.
Which steps exactly you need to do will depend on the

pattern. For example, if the pattern calls for finishing an edge
in a particular way, you probably don’t need to do that. But
you will need to sew the cups together and attach them to the
band and straps. Anything that affects the fit is a yes. Anything
decorative is unlikely to affect the fit so you can skip it. The
muslin step should be fairly brief.
Important – If you are doing a muslin for an underwired bra pattern, make sure to use underwire in your
muslin. If you’ve only got 1 set of underwires, you can always slip them out again to reuse them in your
final pattern, but do put them into your muslin to check how it fits with them. The fit of an underwired bra
is quite different to a non-underwired bra pattern.
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Keep Your Muslin
Your muslin can be super useful to refer to as you make changes.
You might want to slip any underwire out and snip off or unpick any hardware/fastenings so you can reuse
them, but keep the main garment intact if you can until you’ve got yourself a perfectly fitting bra. That way
if you want to go back and check the adjustments you’ve made against the first version you did, you’ve still
got it there.
Then when you’re finally 100% happy and you know you won’t need your muslin anymore, you can recycle
or reuse the fabric for scraps or another project.
Keep Your Pattern Pieces

Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater as the saying goes. Keep your pattern pieces, you may use
them.
If in your muslin process you end up changing sizes, mark them clearly then put the original ones aside
while you try the new size. If you end up realizing you need adjustments, you can then use your muslin
pattern pieces to adjust until they’re perfect.
Once you’ve got your final pattern pieces you’re super happy with, then get rid of any previous/original
ones.
What To Do When It Doesn’t Fit

Don’t panic! A bra pattern not fitting to perfection first time round is par for the course for most people. If
you’ve used a pattern from that designer before and you know your body really well, you are more likely to
get lucky, but since a bra is so snug fitting and bodies vary so much, statistically speaking you will probably
find things you want to tweak or change for your shape or preference.
Remember all the different things that affect fit (ribcages, muscle definition, mammary gland shape, fat-to-
muscle ratio along with breastfeeding, exercise, food, reconstruction, surgeries, pregnancies, hereditary
factors, lumpiness, time of the month, smoking and many many more!)…
Your body is unique. It’s perfect. It’s you.
And we want to get that perfect unique body the perfect unique fit ❤
You may find you need to go up or down a size, or if you just need some adjustments. We will work through
each option in the upcoming section.
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How To Check The Fit
To get the best fit we suggest getting dressed into your muslin as follows:
• While standing in front of a large mirror, bend forward from the waist and then stand back up.
Make sure to lift the breasts into the cups, then adjust the straps to fit.
• Bands will stretch over time. Clasp the hook on the loosest hook to start out with - it should be
snug but not tight.
Then check the following:
• You shouldn’t be able to pull the band

more than 2 inches away from your
back. Pay attention to whether or not
it rides up in the back, or if the straps
are digging into your shoulders. If it
does any of these, you need a smaller
band. If the back feels too tight, you
need a bigger band.
• The band needs to sit level across the

body and be in line with the
underwires. Turn to the side and
assess whether you think it’s level all
the way around.
• The length of the straps needs to be adjusted to support the cup and should be comfortable. If the
straps are falling off, make sure to tighten them.
• For the cups to fit correctly, there should be no bulging, gaping or spilling out of the cups. If this is
happening, try a bigger cup.
• If you have gaping or wrinkling cups, try a smaller cup size.
• For correct fit, the underwire should sit under each breast, sitting in the crease and end under your
arms. If the underwire doesn’t sit flat against your ribcage, lifts away from the body, or digs in
anywhere, try a bigger cup. If your underwire is too long or short, you may need to change the
underwire you are using
PRO TIP - Dismantling old bras you no longer wear, or searching at a

charity/thrift store is a great and environmentally-friendly way to
try different sized underwires and hardware!
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Do I Need To Change Size?
Check the following to see if you need to change size:
● If the band is too loose - go DOWN a band size and UP a cup size.
● If the band is too tight - go UP a band size and DOWN a cup size.
● If the band fits, but the cups don’t - keep the band size and go up or down in cup size.
● If the cups fit, but the band doesn’t - keep the cup size and change the band size, going up or down
based on what you need.
● If your underwire is sitting away from your breast plate - try one band size down, and a fuller cup.
What Is A Sister Size?

As we know, each one of us has a totally different shape. Under and full bust measurements don’t give us a
complete, accurate assessment of size. We all have different back measurements, breast shape, etc.
Moving up or down a cup size and adjusting the band as needed might achieve a better fit than your
measured size. These are your sister sizes.
This isn’t a science and there’s no hard and fast rules as to whether you need a sister size. Generally, it’ll all
just feel a bit wrong and/or you can’t seem to fix it with the adjustments in step 3.
If you look at our size chart, you can see the sizes are all staggered, almost in a pretty line. This serves a
second purpose, other than showing our size range. It shows you what your sister sizes will be!
Your first step is to find your size on our chart and make a muslin with that band and cup. If it doesn’t feel
quite right and you’re not clear on why, take the sizing up or down vertically and try that one next (your
sister size).
Band
Size Cup Size
(in)
If you need a sister size, you move up or down vertically in the chart above.
This means your cup size will change based upon the new band size.
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For example, if you were clearly a 34D when you measured but it’s all a bit tight & bulgy, move one size
vertically down the chart to the sister size of 36C.
Don’t worry that once you start trying sister sizes, you’re now outside of what you measured in step 1. The
measurements are just a place to start.
Ultimately for a perfect fit it’s a combination of your

measurements and working with your personal
shape. Factors such as the exact shape of your
breasts (more rounded, more long etc) and how
dense they are (age, breastfeeding, nutrition etc) can
also affect this.
This is the trial and error part of getting a fabulous

fit.
It can take a bit of patience, but once you’ve done all

your adjustments and got the perfect fit for you,
you’ll forever more be able to wear bras that look
and feel phenomenal!
Once you’re happy you’ve got the right size, it’s time to check for adjustments.
What Adjustments Do I Need To Make?

If you’re 100% happy with the fit, you can jump to step 5 for your final version.
If you don’t have a perfect fit for you just yet, carry on to step 3 for adjustments.
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Step 3 – Muslin Adjustments
There are numerous different adjustments you can make based on your body shape. You may need to
follow your instinct here of what you see in the mirror plus your knowledge of your body.
NOTE – The images below are taken from the Rebecca Page Bianca Bra Pattern. Depending on the style of
bra you are sewing and what pattern you are using, you may find your pattern pieces differ in shape or
name.
Tips For Making Adjustments:
• The TEAL lines on the diagrams below are where we recommend adjusting the pattern pieces.
• If you need to add extra onto your pattern piece, cut it with scissors, put another piece of paper or
card underneath and glue or tape the pattern pieces onto the card.
• If you need to remove part of the pattern piece, try to fold it rather than cutting it. That way if you
find you’ve removed a bit much, you can always unfold it a little.
• It really is trial and error combined with a bit of thinking. Stand in front of a mirror with your bra
on and some pins or clips at the ready. Pinch it in with your fingers in different places and see
what happens. Where it’s too big or wide, carefully pin or clip it in as needed. Measure how much
you took out with the pins or clips and adjust your pattern piece accordingly.
Below are the key adjustments and how to start with each…
Narrow or Broad Shoulders

NARROW SHOULDERS – You will need to bring the
shoulder straps closer together to prevent them
falling off your shoulders. To do this add width onto
the Back Band, following the narrow line. This will be
your new Back Band pattern piece.
BROAD SHOULDERS – You will need to move the

shoulder straps further apart for a better fit across
the back and shoulders. To do this take out width on
the Back Band, following the narrow line. This will be
your new Back Band pattern piece.
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Petite Armscye
Remove height at the strap placement on the Outer
Cup, easing into the seam allowance.
Add or Remove Length from Back Bands

If your back band is too loose or tight, you need to adjust it. You can either go up or down a band size, or
you can adjust it as below.
To add or remove length from the Back Band, take

your pattern piece and mark halfway along the
straight top edge, down towards the bottom edge.
Cut with scissors.
ADD LENGTH – Spread out the pattern piece by the

amount you would like to increase the Back Band by.
Redraw the piece. This will be your new Back Band
pattern piece.
REMOVE LENGTH – Overlap the pattern piece by the

amount you would like to decrease the Back Band by.
Redraw the piece. This will be your new Back Band
pattern piece.
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Gaping under the Arm or Underbust
If the fabric isn’t sitting flat against your skin under the arm or under the bust, try removing the gaping by
pinning or clipping it. If that works, then this is how you would adjust the pattern pieces accordingly.
Take the Front and Back Band pattern pieces and

temporarily overlap them at the side seam by the
seam allowance.
GAPING AT THE UNDERBUST – Overlap the bottom

edges (underbust) at an angle to take out the amount
you need. Your band will now curve a little down like
a frown. Redraw both pattern pieces, smoothing out
the lines and leaving out the bit that you crossed
over. These will be your new Front and Back Band
pattern pieces.
GAPING AT THE UNDERARM – This is the opposite of

the above. Overlap the top edges (underarm) at an
angle to take out the amount you need. Redraw both
pattern pieces, smoothing out the lines. These will be
your new Front and Back Band pattern pieces.
GAPING AT THE CUP UNDER THE ARM - Make a

small cut in the Outer Cup piece. Overlap by the
amount needed. Tape down and trace over the new
piece, smoothing the curve. These will be your new
Outer Cup pattern piece.
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Adjusting Bridge Width
If you find you need to adjust the bridge width (spacing between the breasts) of the Front Band, here are a
few adjustment options:
DECREASE BRIDGE WIDTH – Using your Front Band

pattern piece, move the fold line in towards the
cradle by the amount you need to decrease the
bridge width by. This will be your new Front Band
pattern piece.
Another option would be to move the seam

allowances inward at the center of the Front Band
when stitching the Cups. Check that this is even on
both sides.
INCREASE BRIDGE WIDTH – Using your Front Band

pattern piece, move the fold line out by the amount
you need to increase the bridge width by. This will be
your new Front Band pattern piece.
REMOVE WIDTH AT THE TOP – Using your Front

Band pattern piece, take it in at an upwards angle by
the amount you need to decrease the top width by.
This will be your new Front Band pattern piece.
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REMOVE WIDTH AT THE BOTTOM – Using your Front
Band pattern piece, take it in at a downwards angle
by the amount you need to decrease the bottom
width by. This will be your new Front Band pattern
piece.
Hook and Eye Width

If your hook and eye doesn't match the Back Band
pattern piece, you can either find or salvage a new
hook and eye to match the pattern pieces, or you can
redraw the curve from the hook and eye closure,
easing up to the top curve.
This is a great solution if your pattern calls for a 2

hook and eye but you prefer a 3 hook and eye for
example.
Adjusting Cup Volume

If you find the Cup fits quite well, but there is a little extra space, or you need just a bit more volume, you
can add or remove volume along your seam lines.
REMOVE VOLUME – To remove some volume from

the cup, ease a deeper seam allowance when
stitching, along the seams where you need less
volume e.g. apex, upper cup etc.
ADD VOLUME – To add more volume into the cup

ease a shallower seam allowance when stitching,
where it is needed.
Make sure to be even on both sides of the seam. If

you just remove it from one of the cup pieces, it’ll
make your breasts point either outwards or inwards
more (which is an option if that’s what you’re aiming
for).
If you are doing a cup with 3 pieces rather than two,

adjust equally from all three pieces.
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Using Foam as Lining
When stitching each cup piece together, ease the
seam allowance along the cup seam, out to ¼ inch
towards the bottom edge of the cup piece.
When you join the Cup Lining (foam) to the Cup

pieces, stretch these to fit the width of the Cup.
You will need to ease the Cup pieces into the cradle
of the Front Band when attaching.
Removing Underwire
If the pattern is designed for underwire (such as our
Bianca Bra is) but you want to skip it, you’ll likely
need to make a few adjustments.
To start with this, make sure to still create the casing

for the underwire as per the pattern because it’ll be a
structural part of how the bra is assembled and
usually helps with shaping.
Then when you get to putting in the underwire, just

don’t put it in (skip that step). Or alternatively if you
would like some support but want to keep it soft,
insert piping cord instead.
After this, follow the same adjustment and sister

sizing guidelines as you would normally. You may find
you need slightly more adjustment (possibly to
fullness and to reduce any gaping).
2-iece Cups vs 3-piece Cups

Some bras have 2-piece cups (the white one on the
drawing), some have 3-piece cups (the pink one on
the drawing).
The number of pieces will determine the shape and is

often dependent on the sizing. In our Bianca Bra, cup
sizes AA-F have 2-piece cups, and sizes G-M have 3
pieces.
If you find you are on the edge of a size range change
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from 2-piece cup to a 3-piece (or vice versa), try
going up or down a cup size to see if the change in
shape helps.
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Step 5 – Check Your Adjustments
If you’ve only had to make a few little adjustments, and/or you’re really confident with your adjustments,
you might want to skip this step and jump straight to the next step, actually sewing your final bra.
If however you’ve had to make quite a few changes, or you’re not 100% sure that it’s now a perfect fit,
make yourself a second muslin to check the fit again. If it’s not quite right, then tweak again until you’re
completely in love with the fit. Then move on to step 6, sewing your final bra.
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Step 6 – Sew Your Bra!
Now you’re all set, it’s nearly time to get sewing with your final fabric! First though, make sure you’re using
the right stitch and needle for your fabric and machine.
Stitch and Needle Tips

Most bra patterns use knit or stretch fabric. Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing
machine (no serger/overlocker necessary!):
● Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point
needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or
clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
● Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt
stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best
for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
● Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but
often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
● Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when
working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out
while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
● Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot
tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will
prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
● Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a
regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the
wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for
hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin
needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
● Finishing the seams – Most bra patterns will hide all the raw edges inside the garment, but if you
happen to use one that doesn’t, because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your
seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting
or zigzag stitch on any raw edges.
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
What If Your Muslin Fit, But Your Final Bra Doesn’t?
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If you get a perfect fit with your muslin but then you find your final garment doesn’t fit, it is usually down to
fabric choice and finishings.
But if you look at it either you’re confident it’s not fabric/finishings, or you’re really not sure why it’s not
fitting, go back to the muslin stage and make a muslin in the exact same fabric as your main fabric, using all
the correct techniques (basically make a whole second bra!). That way you can see what’s differed between
the two garments. There will always be a reason and once you figure that out, you’ll be able to rectify it.
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Good Luck and Have Fun!
And without further ado, you’re all set to start sewing your final bra!
Make sure to use your personally adjusted pattern pieces from above,
and follow the pattern you are using step-by-step for the construction
method the pattern pieces were designed for.
And if you get stuck, just ask for help! Most pattern designers will have
a Facebook group where others who have made the pattern will be
happy to jump in and give suggestions to help with fit.
If you are using a Rebecca Page pattern (such as the Bianca Bra),
our Facebook group is here. Come join us!
Happy sewing, Rebecca xoxo
“I was surprised how good this bra fits. I’ve got a difficult size after breastfeeding and have always problems
with buying bra’s. I will definitely make more. The instruction is full of pictures and this makes the sewing
part much easier. Thanks for such a wonderful pattern!” - Linda Berendsen
“This is an awesome bra pattern. This was my first attempt at bra construction and the directions were
easy to follow. The fit is right on and it is very comfortable to wear! I will be making a few more!”
- Eileen Wilson
“A lovely pattern with an even lovelier outcome. Great instructions and a wonderful way to learn to sew
your first bra. I look forward to making many more Bianca Bras!” - Jamie Adler
| Page 25

How To Make A Bra - Your Personal Fitting Guide PDF

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How To Make A Bra - Your Personal Fitting Guide PDF

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How To Make A Bra: Your

Personal Fitting Guide

Discover How To Get A Perfect Fit For

Two people who weigh identical amounts can be

Breastfeeding, exercise, food, reconstruction,

And just as each person is unique, so is each bra

However, given how wonderfully unique we all are,

Happy sewing (and bra making!),

De-Mystifying Bra Sizing

For sure! Let’s work through it step-by-step…

Your band size is the YELLOW LINE on the mannequin above

EG if your measurement around the fullest part of your bust is 38 inches,

Actually Measure Yourself

1. To get an accurate measurement, make sure you’re

2. Also make sure your tape measure is accurate. Dress

How To Work Out Your Cup Size

Difference between your Underbust

CUPS AND BANDS IN INCHES

CUPS AND BANDS IN CM

A muslin is a test garment out of inexpensive or surplus fabric

How To Make A Muslin

Which steps exactly you need to do will depend on the

Keep Your Pattern Pieces

What To Do When It Doesn’t Fit

Your body is unique. It’s perfect. It’s you.

Then check the following:

• You shouldn’t be able to pull the band

• The band needs to sit level across the

• If you have gaping or wrinkling cups, try a smaller cup size.

PRO TIP - Dismantling old bras you no longer wear, or searching at a

What Is A Sister Size?

Ultimately for a perfect fit it’s a combination of your

This is the trial and error part of getting a fabulous

It can take a bit of patience, but once you’ve done all

What Adjustments Do I Need To Make?

Tips For Making Adjustments:

Narrow or Broad Shoulders

BROAD SHOULDERS – You will need to move the

Add or Remove Length from Back Bands

To add or remove length from the Back Band, take

ADD LENGTH – Spread out the pattern piece by the

REMOVE LENGTH – Overlap the pattern piece by the

Take the Front and Back Band pattern pieces and

GAPING AT THE UNDERBUST – Overlap the bottom

GAPING AT THE UNDERARM – This is the opposite of

GAPING AT THE CUP UNDER THE ARM - Make a

DECREASE BRIDGE WIDTH – Using your Front Band

Another option would be to move the seam

INCREASE BRIDGE WIDTH – Using your Front Band

REMOVE WIDTH AT THE TOP – Using your Front

Hook and Eye Width

This is a great solution if your pattern calls for a 2

Adjusting Cup Volume

REMOVE VOLUME – To remove some volume from

ADD VOLUME – To add more volume into the cup

Make sure to be even on both sides of the seam. If

If you are doing a cup with 3 pieces rather than two,

When you join the Cup Lining (foam) to the Cup

To start with this, make sure to still create the casing

Then when you get to putting in the underwire, just

After this, follow the same adjustment and sister

2-iece Cups vs 3-piece Cups

The number of pieces will determine the shape and is