HARVEST MOON RISES

IN SONOMA

Sonoma, California — the go-to town for food and wine with a casual, hometown feel.
Downtown Sonoma is punctuated by the town’s plaza. Restaurants, wine bars and gift
shops line all four sides of the square, enclosing a lush green park full of fragrant rose
beds, mature trees laden with leaves, emerald lawns, children’s playground, wooden
benches and trickling fountains. On any given summer or spring day, below a brilliant
blue sky, it is normal to see picnickers spread out on quilts, dogs prancing on their
leashes and groups of people meandering through the square. Like many of the Northern
California wine country towns set between valleys and rambling hillsides, Sonoma is as
rich in its natural landscape as it is the food and wine it produces. The difference is that,
while it still maintains a high level of quality and excellence, it is approachable to the
average traveler and weekend warrior.

There is one restaurant on the square that raises the bar time and again. Harvest Moon
Café is tucked between gift stores and coffee shops on the west side of the square in an
unassuming, intimate space. Seating is offered outside, under the stars, in the warmth of
summer and spring as well as in their cozy, amber-lit dining room. Owners Nick and
Jennifer Demartis have created a rustic and inviting atmosphere that lacks every
affectation and arrogance some wine country eateries have been plagued with. It is not
unusual to watch Nick and Jen’s five-year-old daughter, Annabelle, helping out alongside
in the fully-exposed kitchen wearing her miniature pink chef’s coat and matching hat.
When Jen isn’t preparing the days’ desserts she can be seen waiting on tables alongside
the friendly and enthusiastic servers who are as knowledgeable about the food and wine
they serve as they are about who they are and where they come from.

I’ve had the opportunity to dine at Harvest Moon a handful of times, each experience
better than the last. The first was out back under the stars, feasting on a bowl of warm,
tomato and saffron clams, tuna sashimi with beats and lemony vinaigrette and crispy-
skinned white fish over perfectly roasted veggies. My favorite seat in the house, however,
is at the chef’s counter, watching the meticulous order in which Nick and his sous chef,
Zach, prepare the ala minute meals for fellow diners. Chef is warm and inviting as I ask
questions ranging from food and technique to music, travel and art. The menu changes
often so be prepared to enjoy something new each time. Past trips to Harvest Moon have
included warm, braised raddichio with thinly-sliced prosciutto and fresh, shaved parm;
chickpeas in harissa; soft, butter lettuce salads with crisp apples and smoky pancetta,
tagliatelle with tuna and broccolini and creamy polenta with pork ragu. My last visit was
comprised of crisp and crunchy fennel salad with sweet, ruby red grapefruit, watermelon
raddish, fresh mint and goat cheese followed by a butternut squash and pumpkin soup
with crushed nuts. My entrée was an earthy chanterelle and porcini risotto with herb oil
that literally melted in my mouth. On no occasion will I (or can I) leave without
devouring a pot-de crème. Rich, chocolate velvet in a cup with a homemade cookie and
fresh whipped cream on top — it is absolutely decadent, light and fabulous and no meal
is complete without one.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I always order Emeritus Vineyards Pinot Noir
when I dine at Harvest Moon. The estate-grown Russian River Pinot Noir complements
the Mediterranean fare, no matter what I order. It’s well-balanced mouthfeel, subtle
tannins and blackberry undertones accentuate the earthy nature of the contemporary
cuisine, whether it be prime cuts of beef, slow-roasted chicken, duck ravioli or freshly
caught fish. No meal is ever complete without a glass or two of the lovely elixir.

When you plan your next weekend excursion to wine country, don’t forget to stop into
Sonoma for the afternoon and when you do, make sure to visit Harvest Moon Café for a
truly lovely dining experience. They are only open for dinner, but it is one meal you will
never forget.
http://www.emeritusvineyards.com