UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF EDUCATION ,ZANZIBAR

AFFILIATED TO THE INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF AFRICA, KHARTOUM

DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE

SPECIALIZATION: CHEMISTRY/BIOLOGY
PROJECT TITLE:

“THE EFFECTS OF COSMETICS AMONG SEX WORKERS IN ZANZIBAR”

By

SAIDI R HAMISI ………………….09/BC/031

JANAT S OTHMAN …………………09/BC/011
SALUM MSABAHA ALI ………………09/BC/013

SUPERVISED BY: Mr. OCHIENG A.

A Research report Submitted for Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of
Bachelor of Science With Education at the University College of Education, Zanzibar.
 DECLARATION

We hereby declare that this is an original reflection of our personal efforts and has not
been presented anywhere for a Degree, a Diploma or any other award in any Higher
Institution of Learning.

SAIDI R. HAMISI: 09/BC/031 …………………………….

JANAT S. OTHMAN: 09/BC/011 ……………………………

SALUM MSABAHA ALI: 09/BC/013 ……………………………

Date: ……………………………………………

APPROVAL BY THE SUPERVISOR

This is to certify that Saidi R. Hamisi, Janat S. Othman and Salum Msabaha Ali have
carried out a research work titled: “The Effects of Cosmetics Among Sex Workers In
Zanzibar”.

The work was conducted under my supervision and has been submitted for the partial
fulfillment of the degree program with my approval.

Name; Mr. Ochieng Anthony, Signature...........................................

(Chemistry Lecturer at the University College of Education, Zanzibar)

Date....................................................................

i
 ACKNOWLDGEMENT

In the name of Allah, the most gracious, the most merciful. Praise be to Him (SWT) who
realizes us to complete this work. We would like to convey our sincere thanks, gratitude’s
and appreciation to all those who in one way or another assisted us in the collection and
compilation of this work.

Our strong appreciation should go to our supervisor, Mr. Ochieng Anthony, the
Chemistry Lecturer at the University College of Education Zanzibar who spent most of
his time in directing us in data collection, compilation and presentation. He made
possibly the work to be successful.

Our appreciation should also go to the administration of the University College of

Education, Zanzibar (UCEZ). It provided financial assistance to meet the cost of
production throughout the time. Also sufficient time was provided to participants to
complete this report.

The similar appreciation goes to our lecturers in the department of Science UCEZ,
especially Dr. Ahmed El-Bakry, Mr. Salim A. Salim, Mr. Ngoge Davins, and Dr. Msafiri
Mshewa, (H.O.D), and not forgetting Dr. Mayasa Salum, Head of Zanzibar Food, Drugs
and Cosmetics (ZFDC) and Mnazimmoja National Hospital-Zanzibar.

Lastly, we are kindly appreciating the cooperation of our fellow students at UCEZ,
Cosmetic sellers, Users, and Respondents from Jimkana Bar, B.O.T Bar, Bhawani Disco
Theatre, Magereza Bar and CCM open Bar at Kilimani ,Zanzibar without forgetting other
peripheral participants.

DEDICATION

Because of its significance, we would like to dedicate this work to our beloved parents
who trusts and permitted us to work at late hours in data collection and strongly insisted
to finish this work at a time being.

ii
 ABSTRACT

Skin lightening (bleaching) cosmetics and toiletries are widely used among the locals
living in Zanzibar island. The active ingredients in these cosmetic products are
hydroquinone, mercury, and corticosteroids. Other additives (concoctions) such as lemon
juice, potash, toothpaste, liquid milk, pulverized naphthalene balls, vitamin C, peroxides
and chlorates, and other chemicals such as hypochlorous, sulphurous acids etc which are
blended in soaps and washing powder are used to enhance the bleaching effect on the
skin. Percutaneous absorption increases with long-term use of these products on a large
body surface area (either as 'immersion bath' or topically) and under hot humid
conditions. The complications arising with the use of these products are carcinogenic,
very serious and are sometimes fatal, and subject health risks to unborn babies.

The study is aimed at identifying the possible health effects caused by the use of such
cosmetics to current human health trends and documenting the safety or health risk
information of toxic chemical ingredients present in personal health care products. Views,
opinions and suggestions of various people from the society we live in have been taken
into consideration. Out of reading and understanding the safety instructions from labels
cosmetic’s containers, jar or so, it is better to read outlines in this research report so as to
be sure of the safety of your health and the quality of cosmetics you are using. In doing
so, you will be avoiding the effects caused by these cosmetics made of toxic chemical
ingredients by not applying them.

The main instruments of data collection were questionnaires, interviews, together with
the general observation of the respondent. Primary data and secondary data obtained
from the field were analyzed both qualitatively and descriptively. This provided an
insight into the research problem.

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 ABBREVIATION

EWG’s = Environmental Working Groups

FDA = Food and Drug Authority

TFDA = Tanzania Food and Drugs Authority

ZFDC = Zanzibar Food, Drugs and Cosmetics

NIPH = Norwegian Institute of Public Health

EDTA = Ethylenediamminetetraacetic acid

ACT- ING = Skin Lighteners

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 CONTENTS

CONTENTS PAGE
DECLARATION ............................................................................................................................................. i
APPROVAL BY THE SUPERVISOR ........................................................................................................... i
ACKNOWLDGEMENT .............................................................................................................................. ii
DEDICATION............................................................................................................................................... ii
ABSTRACT................................................................................................................................................... iii
ABBREVIATION ......................................................................................................................................... iv
CHAPTER ONE
1.0 INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................................................... 1
1.1 BACKGROUND TO THE PROBLEM.......................................................................................................... 1
1.2 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM .............................................................................................................. 3
1.3 PURPOSE OF THE STUDY. ....................................................................................................................... 3
1.4 GENERAL OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH. ............................................................................................. 3
1.4.1 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES. .......................................................................................................................... 3
1.5 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY ............................................................................................................... 4
1.6 SCOPE OF THE STUDY. ............................................................................................................................ 4
1.7 HYPOTHESIS. .......................................................................................................................................... 5
1.7.1 CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK ................................................................................................................ 5
1.8 RESEARCH QUESTION. .......................................................................................................................... 6
1.9 LIMITATION AND DELIMITATION. ........................................................................................................ 6
1.9.1 LIMITATION ......................................................................................................................................... 6
1.9.2 DELIMITATION. ................................................................................................................................... 6
CHAPTER TWO
2.0 LITERATURE RIVIEW. .............................................................................................................................. 6
2.1 INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................................................... 6
2.2 MEANING OF CONCEPTS................................................................................................................ 6
2.3 CAUSES OF THE PROBLEM ............................................................................................................. 7
CHAPTER THREE
3.0 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY. ................................................................................................................. 9
3.1 INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................... 9

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3.2 Area of the study. .................................................................................................................................. 9
3.3 Population of the study. ......................................................................................................................... 9
3.4 Sample and Sampling procedure. .......................................................................................................... 9
3.5 Data collection techniques. .................................................................................................................... 9
3.6 Data Presentation plan .......................................................................................................................... 9
3.7 Questionnaire. ...................................................................................................................................... 10
CHAPTER FOUR
4.0 DATA PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS. ................................................................................................. 12
4.1 Data presentation through observation and interview. ...................................................................... 12
4.2 Observation. ......................................................................................................................................... 12
4.3 Interview. ............................................................................................................................................. 12
CHAPTER FIVE
5.0 FINDINGS, RECOMMANDATION AND CONCLUSION. ........................................................................... 15
5.1 Findings. ............................................................................................................................................... 15
5.2.1 Hydroquinone (1,4-Benzenediol). ..................................................................................................... 17
5.2.2 Effects of Hydroquinone in the body. ............................................................................................... 19
5.2.3 Mercury (Hg). .................................................................................................................................... 19
5.2.3.1 The effects of Mercury in the body. ............................................................................................... 19
5.2.4 Corticosteroids (hydrocortisone, betametasone etc). ...................................................................... 19
5.2.4.1 The effects of corticosteroids in the body. .................................................................................... 20
5.2.5 Mineral oils. ....................................................................................................................................... 20
5.2.6 Fragrance. .......................................................................................................................................... 20
5.2.6.1 Effects to the body. ........................................................................................................................ 20
5.2.7 Color pigments. ................................................................................................................................. 21
5.2.8 Alcohol, Isopropyl (SD-40) ................................................................................................................. 21
5.3 Mode of application of the cosmetics. ................................................................................................. 21
5.4 Reactivity responses of ingredients to the body. ................................................................................. 21
5.5 Classification of Cosmetics. .................................................................................................................. 22
5.5.1 Creams and lotion containing Hydroquinone. .................................................................................. 22
5.5.2 Soaps containing Mercury and its derivatives. ................................................................................. 23
5.5.3 Creams Containing Hormones [Steroids]. ......................................................................................... 23
5.5.4 Gels containing Steroids. ................................................................................................................... 23
5.5.5 Soaps containing Hydroquinone. ...................................................................................................... 24
5.5.6 Creams containing Mercury and its derivatives. ............................................................................... 24
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 5.5.7 Gels containing Hydroquinone. ......................................................................................................... 24
5.5.8 Liquid soap containing Hydroquinone. ............................................................................................. 24
5.5.9 Cosmetic [Antipaspirant] containing Aluminium Zirconium. ............................................................ 24
5.6 Cosmetic used to reduce the body fatness Containing toxic herbal extract from “Phytolacca ssp”
plant. .......................................................................................................................................................... 24
5.7 Recommendations. .............................................................................................................................. 25
5.8 Conclusion. ........................................................................................................................................... 27
5.9 Reference ............................................................................................................................................. 28

LIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES

Figure 1…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….5
Figure 2……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………13
Figure 3……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………14
Figure 4……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………17
Figure 5……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………18
Figure 6……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………25

Table 1…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….14
Table 2…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….16

vii
 CHAPTER ONE

1.0 INTRODUCTION

1.1 BACKGROUND TO THE PROBLEM.

Skin is the effective barrier to the environmental. Disturbances to this barrier leads to the
development of various skin problems and other health hazards. Cosmetics products are
widely used by every socio- class of human being to cleanse, perfume, protect and change
the appearance of skin. Most cosmetic products contain a combination of ingredients such
as emulsifiers, preservatives, thickener, color, fragrance; UV filters (sunscreens),
humectants, occlusive agents, ACT - ING and pH stabilizers. Sometimes the ingredients
in cosmetics can have unintended side effects. Most serious side effects have been noticed
from various studies for certain cosmetic ingredients. Thus, it is necessary to have the
best knowledge possible about each ingredient used, both in relation to its characteristics
as well as to its toxicological data, taking into account the best many potential risks
related to its cosmetic use. The safety of products is based on the safety of its ingredients,
the latter being evaluated by toxicological testing (Pauwels and Rogiers, 2004).

Cosmetics have been used for as long as there have been people to use them. The word
"cosmetae" was first used to describe Roman slaves whose function was to bathe men and
women in perfume. Since the Egyptians, each subsequent civilization invented unique
words that referred to cosmetics and fragrance as one science, but the science eroded after
Rome (Keville, Green). Anthropologists speculate that primitive perfumery began with
the burning of gums and resins for incense. Richly scented plants were fused into animal
and vegetable oils for ceremonial anointing and for pleasure. From 7,000 to 4,000 BC, the
fatty oils of olive and sesame were combined with fragrant plants to create the original
Neolithic ointments.
As early as 10,000 BC, men and women used scented oils and ointments to clean and
soften their skin and mask body odor. Dyes and paints were used to color the skin, body
and hair. They rouged their lips and cheeks, stained their nails with henna, and lined
their eyes and eyebrows heavily with kohl. Kohl was a dark-colored powder made of
crushed antimony, burnt almonds, lead, oxidized copper, ochre, ash, malachite,
chrysocolla (a blue-green copper ore) or any combination thereof. It was applied with a
small stick (Cohen). The upper and lower eyelids were painted in a line that extended to
the sides of the face for an almond effect. In addition to reducing sun glare, it was
believed that kohl eyeliner could restore poor eyesight and reduce eye infection. Kohl
was kept in a small, flat-bottomed pot with a wide, tiny rim and a flat, disk-shaped lid.
(Carnegie Museum).

Cosmetics were an inherent part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Oils and creams were
used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds. Myrrh, thyme,
marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil,

1
sesame oil and almond oil provided the basic ingredients of most perfumes that were
used in religious ritual and embalming the dead (Cohen).

For lips, cheeks and nails, clay called red ochre was ground and mixed with water.
Henna was used to dye fingernails yellow or orange. Makeup was stored in special jars
that were kept in special makeup boxes. Women would carry their makeup boxes to
parties and keep them under their chairs. Although men also wore makeup, they did not
carry their makeup kits with them (Brand). The ancient Egyptians took great pride in
their appearance and cleanliness. A cleansing cream made of animal or vegetable oil
mixed with powered lime and perfume was used instead of soap. People rubbed
themselves daily with perfumed unguent oil that had soaked in scented wood (Rigby).
The mixture was left in a pot until the oil absorbed the wood scent. Perfumed oil was
used to prevent the skin from drying out in the harsh climate.

At parties, servants would place a cone of perfumed grease on the head of each guest.
The grease had a cooling effect as it melted and ran down the faces of each guest.
Everyone, regardless of age or gender wore makeup. (Rigby, Brand).

Some hairstyles were very similar to that of today’s. The common folk wore their hair
short. Young girls usually kept their hair in pigtails while boys had shaved heads with
one braided lock worn to one side. Egyptian men shaved their head in order to avoid
getting lice. Wigs made of sheep’s wool or human hair were worn by men and women to
parties, official functions and for protection from heat. A hairpiece might be used to
enhance real hair. When not in use, wigs were stored in special boxes that were displayed
on a stand at home. To preserve hair from the effects of sun, it was treated with a
moisturizing cream in the shape of a cosmetic cone which would gradually melt and give
the wig a pleasant fragrance (Rigby). In Greece, precious oils, perfumes, cosmetic
powders, eye shadows, skin glosses, paints, beauty unguents, and hair dyes were in
universal use (University of Pennsylvania).

In the 1930’s, skin was thought to be essentially an impermeable barrier, a more attractive
version of armadillo plate. But since at least the 1960’s, it has been widely known that the
barrier can be bleached, partly as a result of demonstrations that some pesticides could
enter the body through the skin. In the 1980’s, in particular, molecular biologists began
piecing together a new understanding of the skin as a reactive, dynamic organ. This view
led to the development of transdermal patches, which deliver drugs into the body
through the skin.

But there is a controversial class of chemicals in cosmetics such as quinines, mercury,

hydroquinones that may be absorbed through the skin and find their way into the
kidney or liver. They are also some color additives, derived from petroleum, known as
coal tars. Coal tar colors (also found in foods) are the single group of ingredients in
cosmetics required to be tested for safety. In 1960, there were about 200 on the market.
But because so many have been found to be carcinogenic, such as Red No. 2, which was
banned in 1976, today the list of approved colors numbers about 45.

2
1.2 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM

One of the challenges facing the present generation is the caring of the body’s health over
the use of cosmetics containing chemical ingredients classified as toxic and there use have
increased exponentially and therefore have lead to the high agitation of industrial
manufacturing, and importation of such goods in large quantity to this region (Zanzibar).
Cosmetics have been designed and made mainly for changing the people’s physical
appearance of the skin leading to the attractiveness of the body. Naturally made
cosmetics should normally not alter the normal functioning of the skin or any other body
organ.

Due to the development of science and technology, and adoption of the Western culture
as well, some of the users either by knowing the problems caused by the toxic chemical
ingredients present in cosmetics or not, or just by ignoring the effects towards the body
health, have been found themselves in need of changing the appearance of their skin
directly and decide to use cosmetics in which there is plenty toxic chemical ingredients
that may bleach the skin and therefore become so smooth to some extent that interfere
with the normal functions of the skin and some other important organs of the body ,
hence this is the major area of this research. Despite the government has imposed
restriction to some of these known cosmetics, they still find their way into the country
under different trademarks and to the hands of the users. Majority of the sex workers use
them to improve on their appearance so as to enhance their business aware or not aware
of their negative health consequences.

1.3 PURPOSE OF THE STUDY.

The main purpose of this study is to identify the possible health effects associated by the
use of these cosmetics.

1.4 GENERAL OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH.

The objective of this research study was to document the safety or health risk information
of toxic chemical ingredients present in personal care products (cosmetics).

1.4.1 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES.

The research project was therefore sought to explore and investigate the following;
o To assess chemical ingredients classified as known or probable carcinogens
commonly used in cosmetics (personal care products).
o To identify and examine health problems associated with the application or use of
cosmetics to human being.
o To identify the products (cosmetics) with the highest health concerns contain
ingredients linked to potential health issues.
o To identify the commonly used cosmetics which contains ACT-ING.
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1.5 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

It was hoped that the findings generated from this study will make several contributions
to both knowledge and understandings of what is one the worst instances to hit the
community country such as Tanzania specifically Zanzibar in the following aspects as;
o To inform the individuals to make others aware over toxic cosmetics which causes
insidious problem permeating through every sector of society in the modern
world.
o To understand the contribution of exposures from personal care products to
current human health trends.
o To inform the stakeholders to formulate products to eliminate ingredients that is
deemed usage for the intended use of the products.
o Be aware of the toxic cosmetic ingredients commonly found in personal care
products (cosmetics).
o The researchers to document the safety or health risk information of toxic chemical
ingredients present in cosmetics.
o A cosmetic products put on the market within the community must not cause
damage to human health when applied under normal or reasonably foreseeable
conditions of use taking account, in particular of the products, presentation, its
labeling, any instructions for its use and disposal as well as any other indication or
information provided by the manufacturers or his authorized agent or by any
other person responsible for placing the product on the community market.
o This review is helpful in motivating all academicians, chemists, beauticians,
pharmacist, industrialist and researchers to perform risk assessment study of
cosmetics by adopting proper legislation and publish. This would be helpful to
upgrade the knowledge, increased the trust and disclosed the myths of common
consumers regarding cosmetics products.

1.6 SCOPE OF THE STUDY.

This study was conducted among sex workers ( mainly women) in various places in
Zanzibar particularly Zanzibar Town in Unguja, including Darajani, Bwawani, Kilimani
(Gofu), Jang’ombe, Kwahani, Miembeni, Magereza and Mpendae. It focused on cosmetics
users, sellers, beauticians in dressing saloons, hospitals, academicians such as students
and teachers.

4
1.7 HYPOTHESIS.

The study was expected to ththe following outputs;

o The skin having blackck and white spots and ageing.
o Thinner skin and mor ore smooth which when get damage willl take
ta much time to
heal.
o Large skin lesions and
nd allergy.
o Skin irritation/itching
ng and some effects when exposed to sunlight
ght.
o Frequent loss of memomory.
o Blood cancer, skin, live
liver, brain, lungs, etc.
o Child born with ment ntal retardation problem for a pregnancy mother
mo who applies
the products.

1.7.1 CONCEPTUAL FRAM

AMEWORK

EFFECTS OF
COSMETICS

7. Blood cancer, skin,

kin,
1. The skin having
ing black
liver, brain, lungs, and white spots
ots aand
etc. ageing.

2. Skin irritation/itching
irri
6. Frequent loss of and some
ome effects when
memory. exposed
sed to sunlight.

5. Child born with mental 3. Thinner skin

kin aand more
retardation problem for smooth which ich w
when get
a pregnancy mother who damage willll take
tak much
applies the products etc. time too heal.
he

4. Large skin lesions

and allergy.

Figure 1. Conceptual frameework representing the effects of cosmetic

etics among human
being.

5
1.8 RESEARCH QUESTION.

o What is a cosmetic?
o What are the effects of cosmetics to human being?
o What are the constituents of cosmetics?

1.9 LIMITATION AND DELIMITATION.

1.9.1 LIMITATION

o Authorization from various health authorities such as managers of health facilities

delayed data collection.
o Logistic problem encountered health facilities to operate on daily basis.
o Patients who refused to be interviewed might be having important information for
this study.
o Observer or Interviewer’s bias.
o Budget constraints.

1.9.2 DELIMITATION.

o Planning/organizing to inform the authorities concerned with health facilities was

done earlier before the actual date for data collection.
o Much data from various people were collected for adequate information.

CHAPTER TWO

2.0 LITERATURE RIVIEW.

2.1 INTRODUCTION

The chapter reviewed different literatures which have relationships with this problem.
This literature can be seen as follows;

2.2 MEANING OF CONCEPTS

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body.
Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and
toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact
lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath
oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products.

6
 A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to colored products
intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers distinguish between
decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics.
The word cosmetics derives from the Greek kosmetikē tekhnē, meaning "technique of dress
and ornament", from kosmētikos, "skilled in ordering or arranging” (A Greek English
Lexicon, on Perseus) and that from kosmos, meaning amongst others "order" and
"ornament.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United
States ( Sandra I, 2004) defines cosmetics as: "intended to be applied to the human body
for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without
affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes, as well, any
material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically
excludes soap from this category (Lewis, Carol)

2.3 CAUSES OF THE PROBLEM

(Natural News) A new report published by the Norwegian Institute of Public Health
(NIPH) highlights some of the worst cosmetic products that cause harmful side effects.
Among the most damaging are permanent hair dyes, facial and body moisturizers,
cleansers, and even sunscreens, all of which are used by a significant portion of the
overall population. And causes of severe reactions from such everyday-use products are
widespread, say researchers.

According to the report, entitled National Register of Adverse Effects from Cosmetic Products
2008-2010, roughly 12 percent of survey respondents indicated that they experienced
"very unpleasant adverse effects" as a result of applying common, conventional cosmetic
products to their skin and hair. Some of these effects were so severe that respondents
indicated that they had to be hospitalized.
The overall worst offender was moisturizers, which represented nearly 58 percent of all
adverse events reported. Sunscreens and tanning products ranked second worse at 12.5
percent, and both cleansing products and hair dye products placed third and fourth at 9.2
percent and 6.6 percent respectively.
The Register gives the researcher a better overview of the products that cause adverse
effects, the type of adverse effect and who experiences them. Then the researcher can
make an assessment and even warn against the use of certain products," ( Berit Granum
from the Division of Environmental Medicine at NIPH, concerning the report)
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has established a Cosmetics Database
through which the public can freely access information about the ingredients used in
cosmetic products. It is important to always be aware of what you are putting on your
skin or ingesting in your body.
A correlation study in which thirty English women were surveyed revealed that anxiety
(p= .008), self-presentation (p=.003), and conformity (p= .007) are significantly positively
correlated with the application of cosmetics, and social confidence (p=.032), emotional
stability (p=.037), self-esteem (p=.003), and physical attractiveness (p=.006) are
7
significantly negatively correlated with cosmetics usage. (Fieldman, Robertson and
Hussey, 2008). This data suggests that anxious, insecure females are motivated to apply
cosmetics more so than females who are emotionally secure, socially confident and
perceive themselves as physically attractive.

Another study conducted by Cash, Dawson, Davis, Bowen and Galumbeck, utilizing a
sample of undergraduate college students, discovered that male peers tend to be harsher
judges of a female's physical attractiveness than female peers are. It also revealed that
females may overestimate their physical attractiveness when they are wearing makeup
cosmetics. (Thomas F et al, 1988)
However, the current literature on the motivation for cosmetics use is scarce, and society
would benefit from the creation and repetition of empirical studies on this topic. The
aforementioned studies only studied small samples of females, predominantly consisting
of participants of Caucasian descent, in their early twenties and all had some college
education. More studies should be conducted including samples taken from people of
various races, cultures, religious affiliations, education statuses, social classes, genders
and ages.
In the last decade, the number of cosmetic procedures performed in the United States has
rapidly increased. While physicians historically have focused on minimizing side effects
and optimizing the physical outcome, a broad spectrum of patient needs also factors in
treatment success. Unfortunately, few data are available regarding the effects of cosmetic
procedures on patient's self-esteem, confidence, relationships, and acceptance by others
(Alsarraf et al, 2001).

8
 CHAPTER THREE

3.0 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY.

3.1 INTRODUCTION

This chapter explained the methods adopted by the researchers while conducting this
study.

3.2 Area of the study.

Refer to capt.1.6

3.3 Population of the study.

The population of this study targeted mainly the sex workers, and others considered
were beauticians in dressing saloons, including few students.

3.4 Sample and Sampling procedure.

The sample has been done randomly in those selected areas of Zanzibar Town in Unguja,
including Darajani, Bwawani, Kilimani (Gofu), Jang’ombe, Miembeni and Mpendae. Ten
people from each selected area and some other information was taken from Mnazimmoja
hospital, Al-Rahma hospital and Ministry of Health Zanzibar.

3.5 Data collection techniques.

The data was collected through interview, questionnaire and observation that helped the
researchers to obtain different information on the effects of cosmetics that affect sex
workers in Zanzibar.
Through questionnaire the researcher got different opinions and contributions about the
effects of using cosmetics since the researchers prepared forms having series of open and
ended questions, so that they gave the respondents a chance to think and give the general
views on the effects of cosmetics in the human being.

3.6 Data Presentation plan

In this study, the data was analyzed timely and descriptively. The data analysis was
qualitative because the research was typically in narrative form rather than numerical
form. However, the results obtained was summarized and presented in the form of tables
and graphs.

9
3.7 Questionnaire.

1. Gender; male female

2. Age range; 15-25yrs 26-35yrs 36-45yrs 46+ yrs
3. Residential area ………………………………………..
4. Before our arrival, have you ever heard or get any information about harmful or toxic
cosmetics? Yes No
4. Do you believe that cosmetics can make a person looks beautiful /smart?
Yes No
5. Do you use cosmetics to keep your body looks attractive? Yes No
If No; what is the alternative way you are using to make your body look beautiful/smart?
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
……………………….……………………………………………………………………………………………………………
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
If yes; mention the types of cosmetics you usually prefer most?
Sprays Lotions Creams Others

6. Give the name(s) of cosmetics which you prefer most to use.

(i)………………………………………………. (ii) …………………………………….... (iii)……………….............
Others……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
7. Are you still using them now? Yes No
8. Why are you interested with that type of cosmetics mentioned in (7) above?
(i)……………………………………………………… (ii)……………………………………………………………………....
(iii)……………………………………………………. (iv)……………………………………………………………………….
9. Can you convince your friends to use the same type you are using? Yes No
Why?………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
10. When have you started to use them?
1-3 years ago 4-7 years ago 8+ Years ago don’t remember
11. How many times do you apply/use cosmetics per day?
4X 3X 2X 1X None
12. How do you feel when applying cosmetics? (you can choose more than one )
Headaches Eye irritation when exposed to sun Skin irritation Body
tiredness Failure to detect smelling Wounds Skin burning
joint problem None

10
 Others; mention …………………………………………………………………………………………………………
13. Do you find any change on your skin since you started applying the cosmetics?
Yes No
14. If yes, what are the changes? …………………………………………………………………………………………
15. Is there any difference health wise before and after you had started applying the cosmetics?
Yes No
16. If yes, what are? ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………
17. Have you taken any tablet to enhance radiance of your skin? Yes No
If yes what are? ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………
18. What are the things do you consider before buying any kind of cosmetics?
Smell Ingredients Quantity Effectiveness Expire date Price
Because it is used widely Don’t know
19. What is the awareness/understanding of the people in your area of residence about harmful
cosmetics? Not aware average very much low
20. Have you ever seen some people affected with cosmetics? Yes No
If yes, what advice do you take to them?
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

11
 CHAPTER FOUR

4.0 DATA PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS.

4.1 Data presentation through observation and interview.

4.2 Observation.

The researchers have made some observations on various places in Unguja including the
areas around Darajani, Kilimani (Gofu), Magereza (where most of the respondents were
from Jang’ombe street, Mpendae and Kwahani), Bwawani and at University College Of
Education Zanzibar. Through the observation technique, the researchers were exposed to
various sex workers who still using cosmetics containing harmful toxic ingredients since
the appearance (color) of most of their skin parts especially the face, hands, finger nods,
elbows, ankle on legs, lips as well as the starting of hair growth around the faces were
found to vary significantly. Some parts were found to be blacker with respect to the rest
especially the finger nods, elbow joints of both hands and legs which appears blacker
than between the joints. Some of the sex worker’s skin was found as if they are about to
very light texture due to the visibility of blood capillaries on their hands and legs seen
even at a distance. Also their faces were decorated by the black spots and un-ordinary
pimples which were found to contain no pus.

4.3 Interview.

The researchers were successful in interviewing 59 people out of 60, which is equal to
98.30% of the total population of the expected number of the sample size including the
sex workers, beauticians, academicians, and doctors and some health centers. There is a
good number of women who still using various kinds of cosmetic products despite of
being prohibited to some of them due to their reaction with the body.
About 46 women interviewed, 23.9% uses Caro light Cream, 13.0% uses Top Lemon,
17.4% uses Diproson products, 8.7% uses Teint Clere, 19.6% others, 6.5% uses Dermovate
and Cleartone, 4.3% uses Bio Clere. 80% bathe with washing powdered soap which
contains bleaching agents such as hypochlorous , hypochlorite and sulphourous acids
before applying these creams and lotions.18% adds cloth bleaching agents into their
bathing waters before bathing. Some users use drugs which contain active ingredients
that can change the skin color and make improper use of the drugs to Cosmetics. The
drugs used as cosmetics are those containing steroids such as creams of Diprosone,
Dermovate, Movate, Betacort, Mediven etc. Actually these are not cosmetics and should
be used at specific times under doctor prescription.

12
 Percenta
entage usage of common cosmetics

25.00%
20.00%
15.00%
10.00%
5.00%
0.00%

Figure 2: The trends of comm

mon cosmetics used by sex workers in Zanzi
zibar.

From figure 2 above, Caro li light Cream has been shown to be used by most of women
simply because they respond nds faster for the short - term users and it is available
a on most
of the local cosmetic shops de
despite of being prohibited by the Governme ment. However, it is
very low in price that makeses easier to obtain even for the low income earners.
ea Top lemon
is another leading cosmetic tic cream applied by most women after Caro C light Cream
followed by Diproson. Thee D Diproson is used by women to treat pimple ples and black spots
on faces affected by toxic chchemical ingredients, but the purpose is then
the changing after
finding that the user is becom
coming decolorized. Nevertheless, all these prohibited
pr types of
cosmetics are sold dependinging upon the customer who went to the sho hop; otherwise they
are not sold to every person
nd due to the fear of being caught by the law.

However, during conduction

ion of the interview, three respondents report
orted different cases
associated with the use off ccosmetics. One 26 years old lady reported
rted to have seen a
woman around Jimkana area rea that completely burnt her skin at the bac
ack side to wounds
due to the mixture of cosmosmetics (Mkorogo) and forced to use her er stomach during
sleeping. The lady was called
led for advice on which type of cosmetic is the
th most preferable
because of the problem.

An interesting case where an nother 32 years old woman reported to have hav seen her friend
living at Jang’ombe street wwho applied Chinese cosmetic (drug) worth rth 45,000/= for the
intention of reducing size of tthe stomach and that of the genital parts for three weeks. The
results of this proved contrar
rary to what was expected to the friend, that at the stomach then
became wider and fall overr th
the waist as an empty sac containing littlee air,
a and that of the
genital parts also became w wider than its normal size and produces foul f smell during
sexual intercourse and this m
made her to lose her frequent customers.

13
Again, a 27 years old lady rereported to give birth to young baby who’s some of the body
parts were weak and deform rmed which then died after one year. Whenn her case reported
for investigation, it was foun
und to be caused by cosmetics during pregna
gnancy.(Mnazi moja
hospital data 2009-2012)

Age range (Years)

Females 15 – 25 26 – 35 36 – 45 46 +
Year reported affected affected affected Affected
2009 209 48 122 30 09
2010 242 53 143 36 10
2011 261 62 148 39 12
Grand total 712 163 413 105 31

Table 1: Reported cases of Skin dis

diseases associated with the use of cosmetics in Zanzibar.
Zanzi

The table 1 indicates the num umber of women reported to have skin disea seases associated by
the use of cosmetics containi ining toxic chemical ingredients whereby a significant
si number
are of the women ranging be between 26 – 35 years old followed by 15 – 25 years old and 36
– 45 years old. There is li little number of cases reported by wome men at the age of
approximately 46 years and d more. This is due to the fact that, the wom
omen at this age do
not engage very much in the use of cosmetics aiming at beautifying their th bodies except
during special occasions. A h high number at 26 – 35 years old is due to the reason that,
there are a lot of activities tha
that involves high rate of cosmetic application
ion by these women
at different places leading to the adverse effects.

160

140

120
2009
100

80 2010

60
2011
40

20

0
15-25 Years 26
26-36 Years 36-45 Years 46+ Years

Figure 3: Reported cases of Skin

in d
diseases associated with the use of Cosmetics in Zanzibar.
Zanz

14
Most cosmetics have common or same effects on the skin and the body in general simply
because the ingredients used are related. According to Tanzania Foods and Drugs
Authority (TFDA), several ingredients have been identified that they should not need to
contain in cosmetic products due to their adverse effects toward the activities and health
of the body. These ingredients are;
o Mercury and its derivatives.
o Hydroquinone and its derivatives.
o Hexachlorophene.
o Bithionol.
o Chloroquinone and its derivatives.
o Steroids in any amount.
o Vinyl chloride.
o Chloroform.
o Zirconium – in sprays.
o Methylene Chloride.
o Aerosol.
o Halogenated salicylanilides [di-, tri-, metabromsalan and tetrachlorosalicynilide].
o Chlorofluorocarbons propellants [full halogenated chlorofluoroalkanes].

Other typical list on a jar of hand creams are; Water, -Stearic Acid, Sorbitol, Glycerin, C-
12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sodium Borate – TEA, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Aloe Vera,
Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Quince Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium
Sorbate, EDTA, Allantoin, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben,Butyl Paraben, Menthol.
These are generally recommended cosmetic bases but should be formulated on a
recommendable dosage as per WHO requirements and pharmcopeoal limitations.

CHAPTER FIVE

5.0 FINDINGS, RECOMMANDATION AND CONCLUSION.

5.1 Findings.

The research findings of 59 people interviewed in this research shows that the average adult uses 11
cosmetics products containing harmful toxic ingredients identified as carcinogenic to human health each
day with 16 unique chemical ingredients. 24 people out of 35 equal to 68.6% of the sampling population do
not have any knowledge concerning the effects of harmful toxic ingredients contained in cosmetics.
Most of them tend to use just because they have seen others using and they want to appear attractive to
men or their fellows. The research findings have concluded that most of the cosmetic users do not very
much aware about the harmful toxic chemical ingredients in cosmetics but there are some of them use it
while knowing their effects over the body health especially sex workers for their financial gains.
The study recommends that in order to avoid these effects to body health, the users must stop using
cosmetics containing ingredients known as carcinogenic to human. However, the researcher team has
found lots of cosmetic effects to these sex workers and has tabulated the results below

15

Name of a product
(cosmetics)
1.-Caro light Cream.
-Caro light
Lightening oil.
2.Top Lemon Cream,
lemon water,
3. Jaribu soap, Mekako
soap, Amira, Rico, Asante
soap.
4.Diproson Cream,
Diproson (oil/water),
Lemonvate Cream
5.Movate, Demovate,
Washing Powder
6. Mixture (Mkorogo) of
Caro light Cream, Caro
light lightening oil/water,
Jaribu Soap, Movate
cream, Jik water,
Washing powder,
Diproson Cream.
Table 2: Some common cosmetics containing toxic chemical ingredients and their associated effects to
the body.
Application
Chemical ingredients
-mineral oil.
-Petrolutum, Aqua
-Stearic acid
-Hydroquinone.
-Cetearyl alcohol
-Isopropyl myristate
-Glycerine, methyl, Propyl
paraben, Huile de Carrote,
Vitamin E, Fragrance.
-Hydroquinone(2%), sodium
metabisulphite, cetosteryl
alcohol, p-
hydroxybenzoates, p-chloro-
m-cresol, lemon extract,
EDTA Disodium
-2% w/w mercuric Iodide,
sensitivity to mercuric
iodide
-Dipropionate de
Betamethasone, Clobetasol,
Excipients: Propylen glycol,
Titanium dioxide, Carbomer,
Purified water q.s
-Clobetasol propionate,
Propylen glycol, Titanium
dioxide, Per-Chloride,
Carbomer, Purified water.
-2% Hydroquinone,
Mercuric Iodide,
Parchloride, Clobetasol,
Propionate de
Betamethasone, glycerine,
time
(years) Effects to the body
- Burning sensation of the skin.
- Dryness of the skin after application.
- Skin and Eye irritation when exposed to direct
1–3 sunlight.
- Black and large pimples on the skin.
- Skin bleaching to brown in appearance &
decoloration.
- Pimples.
- Skin bleaching to very brown in color.
- Eye and skin irritation to sunlight exposure.
- Black spots around the face where applied.
4–7 - Burning sensation and wounds.
- Rashes which appears and disappears.
- Body tiredness
- Blurred visions.
- Wounds around the applied parts.
- Burning sensation of the skin.
1–3 - Skin weakening and become so thin to blood
capillaries visibility.
- Blurred visions
- Skin irritation and burning sensation leading to
wounds.
- Eye and body irritation when exposed to sunlight
To 8+ leading to difficulties to walk at day time.
- Headaches and skin lesions after applying.
- Failure to detect smell (sometimes).
- Body becomes slightly tired.
- Burning sensation few minutes after applying to the
body.
4-7 - Wounds which difficult to heal easily.
- Burning sensation of the body.
- Wounds over the parts which have applied.
- Feeling very cold at sleeping (night).
1-3 - Eyes and skin irritation.
- Large pimples on the skin which lasts longer.
- General body tiredness.
- Great risk to pregnancy and breastfeeding mothers
- Skin and eye irritation when exposed to sunlight.
- Not good to young children with immature skin.
- Very smooth and thin skin to blood capillaries
visibility.
- Very brown color of the skin few days later.
16
 (a) (b)

(b) (d)

(e) (f) (g)

Figure 4: The pictures a, b, c, d, e, f and g show some women with skin burning and
pimples due to Cosmetic usage.

5.2 MECHANISM OF INGREDIENTS ABSORPTION TO THE BODY.

5.2.1 Hydroquinone (1,4-Benzenediol).

17
Hydroquinone is both a natural and an anthropogenic compound. It occurs naturally as a
conjugate with β-D-glucopyranoside in the leaves, bark and fruit of a number of plants,
especially the ericaceous shrubs such as cranberry, cowberry, bearberry and blueberry.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone has been shown to induce reversible hypopigmentation in man and

animals. This is most likely caused by melanocyte destruction, decreased melanosome
formation, altered melanosome structure, increased melanosome degradation, and
destruction of membranous organelles. These experiments showed that hydroquinone
was effectively (45% of total dose) and quickly absorbed by the skin (35% of total dose in
1 h) and relatively quickly absorbed into the bloodstream (30% within 1 h). It was also
demonstrated that excretion (via urine, 35% after 24 h) is slower than the uptake into the
body. If one considers that with normal use the cream is applied every 24 h and that
excretion takes approximately 72 h, it is reasonable to assume that accumulation of
hydroquinone will occur. After reaching the bloodstream, hydroquinone is present as free
hydroquinone (35%) and as reversible bound to protein (35%), the remainder as
irreversible bound to protein (10%).

2 – 10% Hydroquinone Cream

BLOOD

LIVER BONE
MARROW
Metabolization to
glucoronide and Metabolization
sulphate also to
benzoquinone benzoquinone
further oxidation further
and conjugation with oxidation and
glutathione conjugation

KIDNEYS

Conjugation with glutathione

Excretion mainly as glucuronide sulphate

Figure 5: Schematic overview of the uptake, distribution, and metabolization of hydroquinone in the body.
18
5.2.2 Effects of Hydroquinone in the body.

Hydroquinone side effects are numerous, and there are a lot of these both in short term
and in long term use. For short term side effects, the most visible problems which may
occur with the use of hydroquinone are;
o Skin redness, and itching.
o Swelling and inflammation.
o Skin irritation.
o Scaling and other skin problems which resemble allergic reactions.
o The hydroquinone tumorigenicity review noted several studies indicating that
hydroquinone, or its metabolite, benzoquinone, may inhibit microtubule assembly,
impairing spindle formation and causing chromosome lagging (i.e. anaphase lag)
(Whysner et al., 1995).
o Causes black spots to the skin “ochronosis”.
o Development of patches and destruction of the skin.
o When they accidentally enter the eyes can cause blindness.

5.2.3 Mercury (Hg).

Mercury has no positive role in the human body; in fact a safe level of mercury exposure
is very difficult to determine. It can be present in the environment in several different
forms, and while all forms of mercury are toxic to humans, the pattern of toxicity varies
with its chemical form, the route of exposure, the amount, the duration and timing of
exposure, and the vulnerability of the person exposed.

5.2.3.1 The effects of Mercury in the body.

Nervous system – developmental delays, impaired vision and hearing, motor function,
brain function, IQ
Cardiovascular system – High blood pressure, altered heart rate, increase heart attack risk
Effects on the immune and reproductive systems, liver and kidneys
It causes the skin dryness and spots, pimples.
It affects the brain of unborn child.
It affects the reproductive organs which lead to infertility.

5.2.4 Corticosteroids (hydrocortisone, betametasone etc).

Hormonal steroids are the most used and well known amongst the common folk, there
are other types as well. Some examples of typical steroids includes dexamethasone (anti-
inflammatory drug), dietary fat (or cholesterol), and estradiol (another sex-hormone). The
chemical structural steroids consist of three cyclohexane and one cyclopentane rings
joined together sharing a common edge or bond with each other.

19
5.2.4.1 The effects of corticosteroids in the body.

o It delays healing to the wounds.

o It affects brain and eyes.
o It affects natural body immunity.
o It facilitates the growth of hair on the face.
o May cause diabetes, bones problems and decrease sexual activities to men.
o Skin starts to be so smooth, thinner and aging.

5.2.5 Mineral oils.

This is petroleum by-product that coats the skin like plastic, clogging the pores. Interferes
with skin’s ability to eliminate toxins, promoting acne and other disorders.
Slows down skin function and cell development, resulting in premature aging. Used in
many products (baby oil is 100% mineral oil). Any mineral oil derivative can be
contaminated with cancer causing PAH’S (polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons).
Manufacturers use petroleum because it is unbelievably cheap. Different forms of mineral
oils are; Liquidum Paraffinum (also known as posh mineral oil), Paraffin oil, paraffin
wax, and petrolatum.

5.2.6 Fragrance.

Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separating

ingredients, many toxic or carcinogenic.

5.2.6.1 Effects to the body.

o Headache
o Dizziness
o Allergic rashes.
o Skin discoloration.
o Violet coughing and vomiting.
o Skin irritation.
o It affects the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity and
irritability.
o Chest tightness and wheezing
o Infant diarrhea and vomiting
o Mucosal irritation
o Reduced pulmonary function
o Asthma and asthmatic exacerbation
o Rhinitis and airway irritation
o Sense organ irritation
o Contact dermatitis

20
5.2.7 Color pigments.

o Synthetic color made from coal tar, contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins
onto the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation.

5.2.8 Alcohol, Isopropyl (SD-40)

A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s natural acid
mantle, making us more vulnerable to bacteria, moulds and viruses it may promote
brown spots and premature aging of the skin.

5.3 Mode of application of the cosmetics.

In most cases, cosmetics are being applied one to two times after birth daily. Some
women tend to use washing powder at birth before applying the preferred product of the
cosmetics in order to reduce skin irritation. But a larger number of the users apply at
night during sleeping time.

5.4 Reactivity responses of ingredients to the body.

Cosmetics containing Ingredients such as hydroquinone are normally applied once a day
as a 2% cream although formulations up to 10% are used. Most of the time it is applied to
the face, treating melasma or post inflammatory hyper pigmentation following acne, but
the cream is also used on other body parts, such as hands, arms, and chest as in solar
lentigines. The larger the area of application, the more hydroquinone will enter the body
through the skin. The duration of usage is also important. When hydroquinone is applied
for a longer period of time, higher concentrations in the body can build up, resulting in
more carcinogenous metabolites. Normally, the effects of the treatment are visible only
after 4–6 weeks and more. It is often recommended not to apply the hydroquinone-
containing skin lightening cream for more than 6 months (U.S. Department of Health and
Human Services; 1989.)

21
5.5 Classification of Cosmetics.

According to Tanzania Foods and Drugs Authority, cosmetics have been classified depending
upon the type of toxic ingredients present. These cosmetics may cause great risks or effects to
users. The laboratory investigations have shown that, the following list of cosmetics contains one
or more toxic chemical ingredients.

5.5.1 Creams and lotion containing Hydroquinone.

47. Clere Lemon Cream

1. Mekako Cream 48. Clere Extra Cream
2. Rico Complexion Cream 49. Binti Jambo Cream
3. Princess Cream 50. Malaika Medicated Beauty Cream
4. Butone Cream 51. Dear Heart with Hydroquinone Cream
5. Extra Clear Cream 52. Nish Medicated Cream
6. Mic Cream 53. Island Beauty Skin Fade Cream
7. Viva Super Lemon Cream 54. Malibu Medicated Cream
8. Ultra Skin Tone Cream 55. Care plus Fairness Cream
9. Fade - Out Cream 56. Topiclear Cream
10. Palmer`s Skin Success (pack) Cream 57. Carekako Medicated Cream
11. Fair & white Active Lightening Cream 58. Body Clear Cream
12. Fair & White Whitening Cream 59. A3 Skin Lightening Cream
13. Fair & White Strong Bleaching Treatment 60. Ambi American Formula Cream
Cream 61. Dream Successful Cream
14. Fair & white Body Clearing milk – tight 62. Symba crème Skin Lite ‘N’ Smooth Cream
Cream 63. Cleartone Skin Toning Cream
15. Maxi – Tone fade Cream 64. Ambi Extra Complexion Cream for men
16. Nadinola Fade Cream 65. Cleartone Extra Skin Toning Cream
17. Clear Essence Medicated fade Cream 66. O`Nyi Skin Crème
18. Peau Claire Body Lotion 67. A3 Tripple action Cream Pearl Light
19. Reine Clair Rico Super Body Lotion 68. Elegance Skin Lightening Cream
20. Immediat Claire Maxi – Beuty lotion 69. Mr. Clere Cream
21. Tura Lotion 70. Clear Touch Cream
22. Ikb Medicated Cream 71. Crusader Ultra Brand Cream
23. Crusader Skin Toning Cream 72. Ultime Skin Lightening Cream
24. Tura Bright & Even Cream 73. Rico Skin Tone Cream
25. Claire Cream 74. Baraka Skin Lightening Cream
26. Miki Beauty Cream 75. Fairlady Skin Lightening Cream
27. Peau Claire Crème Eclaircissante 76. Immediat Claire Lightening Body Cream
28. Sivoclair lightening Body Lotion 77. Skin Lightening Lotions Containing
29. Extra Clair lightening Body Lotion Hydroquinone
30. Precieux Treatment Beauty Lotion 78. Jaribu Skin Lightening Lotion
31. Clear Essence Skin Beautifying Milk 79. Amira Skin Lightening lotion
32. Tura Skin Toning Cream 80. A3 Cleartouch Complexion Lotion
33. Madonna Medicated Beauty Cream 81. A3 Lemon Skin Lightening Lotion
34. Mrembo Medicated Beauty Cream 82. Kiss Lotion
35. Shirley Cream 83. Princess Lotion
36. Kiss – Medicated Beauty Cream 84. Clear Touch Lotion
37. UNO21 Cream 85. Super Max – Tone Lotion
38. Princess Patra Luxury Complexion Cream 86 No Mark Cream
39. Envi Skin Toner – Cream 87. Bioclare Lightening Body Lotion without
40. Zarina Medicated Skin Lightener – Cream Hydroquinone.
41. Ambi Special Complexion - Cream 88. Dawmy – Lightening Body Lotion
42. Lolane Cream 89. G & G Dynamiclair Lotion
43. Glotone Complexion Cream 90. G & G Teint Uniforme
44. Nindola Cream 91. G & G Cream LighteningBeauty Cream
45. Tonight Night Beauty Cream 92. Maxi White Cream
46. Fulani Cream Eclaircissante

22
5.5.2 Soaps containing Mercury and its derivatives.

1. Block & White Skin Whitener Germicidal 7. Body Clear Medicated Antiseptic Soap
8. Blackstar Soap
bath Soap
9. Cherie Claire Body Beauty Lightening
2. Emani Naturally Fair Pearls Soap
& Treating Soap
3. Maxi–tone soap (skin Lightening Soap)
10. Immediate Clair Lightening Beauty
4. Margostara Soap (New Tannin) Soap
5. Rose Beauty Soap 11. Lady Claire Soap
6. Rusty–Whitening Soap (New formula) 12. M.G.C Extra Clear Soap
13. Topi Clear Beauty Complexion Soap
14. Ultra Clear Soap

5.5.3 Creams Containing Hormones [Steroids].

1. Amira Cream 18. Movate Cream

2. Jaribu Cream 19. Soft & Beautiful Cream
3. Fair & Lovely Super Cream 20. Mediven Cream
4. Neu Clear Cream Plus (spot Remover) 21. Body treat Cream (spot remover)
5. Age renewal Cream 22. Dark & Lovely Cream
6. Visible Difference Cream (Neu Clear – 23. SivoClair Cream
Spots Remover) 24. Musk – Clear Cream
7. Body Clear Cream 25. Fair & Beautiful Cream
8. Sivo Clair Fade Cream 26. Beautiful Beginning Cream
9. Skin Balance Lemon Cream 27. Diproson Cream
10. Peau Claire Cream 28. Dermovate Cream
11. Skin Success Cream 29. Top Lemon Plus
12. M & C DynamiClair Cream 30. Lemon Cream
13. Skin Success Fade Cream 31. Beta Lemon Cream
14. Fairly White Cream 32. Tenovate
15. Clear Essence Cream 33. Unic Clear Super Cream
16. Miss Caroline Cream 34. Topiflam Cream
17. Lemonvate Cream 35. First Class Lady Cream

5.5.4 Gels containing Steroids.

1. Fashion Fair Gel Plus 12. Ultra – Gel Plus

2. Hot Movate Gel 13. Zarina Plus Top Gel
3. Hyprogel 14. Action Dermovate Gel Plus
4. Mova Gel Plus 15. Prosone Gel
5. Secret Gel Cream 16. Skin Balance Gel Wrinkle Remover
6. Peau Claire Gel Plus 17. TCB Gel plus
7. Hot Proson Gel 18. Demo – Gel Plus
8. Skin Success Gel Plus 19. Regge Lemon Gel
9. Skin Clear Gel Plus 20. Ultimate Lady Gel
10. Soft & Beautiful Gel 21. Topifram Gel Plus
11. Skin Fade Gel Plus 22. Clair & Lovely Gel

23
 5.5.5 Soaps containing Hydroquinone.

1. Body Clear Medicated Antiseptic 5. Lady Claire Soap

Soap 6. M.G.C Extra Clear Soap
2. Blackstar Soap 7. Topi Clear Beauty Complexion
3. Cherie Claire Body Beauty Soap
Lightening & Treating Soap 8. Ultra Clear Soap
4. Immediate Clair Lightening Beauty
Soap

5.5.6 Creams containing Mercury and its derivatives.

1. Pimplex Medicated Cream

2. New Shirley Medicated Cream.

5.5.7 Gels containing Hydroquinone.

1. Body Clear
2. Topi Clear
3. Ultra Clear

5.5.8 Liquid soap containing Hydroquinone.

1. Peau Claire Lightening Body Oil.

5.5.9 Cosmetic [Antipaspirant] containing Aluminium Zirconium.

1. Triple dry antiperspirant

5.6 Cosmetic used to reduce the body fatness containing toxic herbal extract from “Phytolacca ssp” plant.

1. BIO Valley Slimina –F Gel

(a) (b)

24
 (c) (d)

(e) (f) (g) (h) (i) (j)) (k)

Figure 6: The pictures above a – k, showing some cosmetics frequently used

sed.

The major point to note from ththe list above is that, there are millions of these
the cosmetics which
are still manufactured worldwiwide daily and others are in the process off being
b designed. The
TFDA has managed to list som ome few of them that have undergone labo boratory investigation
while still planning for others.
s. T
Therefore having a cosmetic product which ich has not mentioned
in this list does not mean that
at it is safe to a health of someone. Example ple a cosmetic such as
Caro light cream contained d hydroquinone didn’t list yet harmfull to t a health. (more
information from www.tfda.or.t r.tz)

5.7 Recommendations.

The beauty and body image ge obsession is cyclical, contributing to widespread

w cultural
messages and norms that are ne negative and harmful for women and girls, s, which
w in turn create
interpersonal dynamics that are damaging for women and between wome men and contribute to
norms that reinforce this unattai
ttainable image of beauty. As long as the cosm smetics are concerned,
the researchers have come acro cross with that, While many skin-lightening ing products are safe,
myriad products on the marke rket are unlabeled, mislabeled, counterfeit, it, or not labeled in a
language the user can read. Theherefore, consumers cannot know what is actually
act in the product
they are using.
Now in order to avoid using co cosmetic products mixed with ingredients that th are unwanted to
the body, the researchers recommmends that;
o Users should read very ry careful the instructions from the manufac facturers written on a
cover, packets, tags, labe
abels or a container/jar having any kind of cosmetic products.
Those with a language w which is not clear or not identified its conten
tent to the user should
25
 be avoided unless what is inside is known as safe to a health. The instruction will let
someone knows the common name of the product, name of the cosmetics and that of
the manufacturer, names and quantity of chemicals present, the batch number, the date
of production and expire, warning or safety precautions during application which
should be taken seriously.

o Non-governmental organizations concerned with consumer health and safety and the
environment should work in partnership with the government and intergovernmental
bodies to develop and disseminate effective consumer education materials.

o Pre-market safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients that includes protections for

children and other vulnerable populations.

o Products containing substances or preparations intended to be ingested, inhaled,

injected or implanted in the human body should not be allowed to come under the field
of cosmetics.

o The cosmetic products containing ingredients such as hydroquinone and mercury

should not be used for more than 4 – 6 months in order to avoid over-concentration to
the body or they must be stopped completely.

o The cosmetic legislation should contain a specific reference to all users of cosmetic
products namely consumers and professional users thereby ensuring that the cosmetic
products must not cause damage or injury to them. Ingredients used in cosmetic
products and the use of cosmetic products can generate (unintended) environmental
effects and these should be evaluated.

o If someone finds that there is bad reaction to a certain kinds of cosmetic, stop using the
product and immediately consult a professional/physician for treatments or advice so
as to resolve the problem.

o Cosmetic industries should effectively make policies on it to ensure all ingredients meet
a strict standard of safety. Those who tends to synthesize cosmetics locally at home
without knowing the proper standard of mixing the ingredients and fatal effects to the
body should not continue unless if they are under experts.

o There should be a publicly-known scientific knowledge on the type and nature of toxic
ingredients in use in cosmetics and even less on the results of risk assessment studies,
including different exposure routes and penetration rates to the body. This is especially
the case for gastro-intestinal studies, which measure the impact of ingested toxic
materials.

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 o Since most individuals have little factual knowledge or personal experience with
cosmetic toxic ingredients, they rely almost solely on information from friends and or
neighbors. Therefore the government or the local authorities should establish special
programmes such as video acts, stories through multimedia or seminars or ‘Campaigns
For Safe Cosmetics’ with the implication to provide education prior to the use of
cosmetics.

o The Government or Non-Governmental Organizations should provide adequate

funding and support to the TFDA/ZFDC Office of Cosmetics and Colors to provide
effective oversight of the cosmetics industry.

5.8 Conclusion.

Based on this study, the researchers are strongly discourages the use of these harmful
cosmetics that always brings some problems to most of the users leading to unsettled
economic balances to women as most of them are working all over the day and spending
almost a half of what they earn for beauty. Sometimes people have to feel proud or self-accept
on their physical appearances since the original one is better than alien. As the researchers
seen before that a good number of cosmetic users are not aware on the ingredients or little
understanding of the chemical reactions within the body, therefore, through this study then
special concern about it to every person or a group of people such as academicians,
beauticians, professionals such as teachers and other social groups should be taken seriously.

Overall, little research is available to document the safety or health risks of repeated use of
cosmetics containing toxic chemical ingredients or mixtures of chemicals like those in
‘mikorogo’, but the absence of data should never be mistaken for proof of safety. The more we
study chemical exposures, the more we understand that they can cause adverse effects ranging
from the subtle and reversible, to effects that are more serious and permanent. Due to this
case, someone can simply make a statement that “Don’t buy the crap (Cosmetics) they tell you
is going to make you beautiful”. All this synthetic chemical garbage is designed to make the
manufacturers and other shareholders wealthy.

If you care about your loved ones would you knowingly allow them to put toxic chemicals on
their skin and in their mouths? It is up to the society (us) as individuals to make others aware
of this insidious problem permeating through every sector of the society in the modern world.
Informed people can make informed decisions about chemicals. Your health, your decisions.

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5.9 Reference

o Textbook on Cosmetics technology – Birla Publishers India.

o W . H . O – Pharma Copea.
o Justine B. (2006). Je! Nitapendeza?, Tanzania Food and Drugs Authority. Toleo la kwanza.
o Food and Drugs Administration (FDA) (2000). Prohibited Ingredients and Related Safety
Issues. March 30, 2000. Accessed online May at http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-
210.html.
o Food and Drugs Administration (FDA) (1999). Diethanolamine and cosmetic products.
Office of Cosmetics and Colors fact sheet. December 9, 1999. Accessed online May 6, 2004
at http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-dea.html.
o Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) (2004). CIR Information available at http://www.cir-
safety.org, accessed May 6, 2004.
o Department of Trade and Industry, UK (DTI) (1998). A survey of cosmetic and certain other
skin-contact products for n-nitrosamines.
o Alsarraf R, Larrabee WF Jr., Anderson S, Murakami CS, Johnson CM Jr., Measuring
cosmetic facial plastic surgery outcomes: a pilot study, Arch Facial Plastic Surg. 2001.
o World Health Organization, WHO. (1994). Assessing human health risks of chemicals:
derivation of guidance values for health-based exposure limits, Environmental Health
Criteria, 170, WHO, Geneva.
o Lowe NJ, Rizk D, Grimes P, Billips M, Pincus S. Azelaic acid 20% cream in the treatment of
facial hyper-pigmentation in darker-skinned patients.
o Balina LM, Graupe K. The treatment of melasma. 20% azelaic acid versus 4%
hydroquinone cream. Int J Dermatol
o "Cosmetics and your health." Women shematlh.gov.nd.web.4 nov 2004

o "FDA Authority Over Cosmetics" Cfsan.fda.gov. http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-

206.html Retrieved 2011-10-23.
o Frosch PJ, Pilz B, Andersen KE, et al. (November 1995). "Patch testing with fragrances:
results of a multi-center study of the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis
Research Group with 48 frequently used constituents of perfumes".

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