SCOPE OF SUSTAINABLITY FOR A VALUE FASHION

CHAIN
A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment of the requirement for
the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted
By

Aishwarya Khatri
Under the
Guidance of

Mr. Nitin Uttam Salve

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, (MUMBAI)
May 2017

I
 Abstract

This research project aims to study the scope of sustainability in Indian Market and
to introduce few products which promote sustainability.

The study mainly focuses on the absence of sustainability amongst top notch Indian
Brands and studies the consumer perception of sustainability. It has a vivid
consumer survey along with interviews from the experts present in Industry.

The study lists down all the materials and process which are feasible for
development of sustainable range as a value fashion retail chain. Development of
samples and subsequent marketing strategy has also been discussed within the
project. This project outlines the need of sustainability in Indian market and cheaper
options to reduce the consumer perception of sustainability being expensive.

II
 Certificate

This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Competency Based Training and
Assessment for Hand Embroiderer” is based on my, Aishwarya Khatri, original
research work, conducted under the guidance of Mr. Nitin Uttam Salve towards
partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree in Bachelor of Fashion
Technology (Apparel Production) of the National Institute of Fashion Technology,
MUMBAI

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever
borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

Signatures of Author

Signatures of Guide

III
 Acknowledgement

The opportunity I had with Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd., Mumbai was a great
chance for my learning and professional development. I am grateful to my institute,
NIFT Mumbai, for providing me with this opportunity and to, Aditya Birla Fashion and
Retail Ltd., for letting me work at their esteemed organization..

I also express my deepest thanks to Mr. Amit Dashora (AVP-Sourcing), Mr. Niraj
Singh(GM-Sourcing) and the entire staff for their constant cooperation and
willingness to help in every respect and for being all so patient within these days of
internship.

Sincere thanks to my faculty mentor, Assistant Professor Mr. Nitin Salve; Dr. Ajit
Khare and all faculty members who provided me with professional insights and
guidance.

I perceive this opportunity as a big milestone in my career development.

Thanking you
Aishwarya Khatri
BFT-8
National Institute of Fashion Technology,Mumbai

IV
 Contents
Chapter 1 ....................................................................................................................... 4
Introduction .................................................................................................................... 4
1.1 Introduction to Aditya Birla ................................................................................... 5
The Global Scenario ............................................................................................... 5
The Indian Scenario ............................................................................................... 5
Beyond Business .................................................................................................... 6
In India .................................................................................................................... 6
VISION & VALUES ................................................................................................. 6
1.2 Introduction Pantaloons...................................................................................... 7
Brands at Pantaloons ............................................................................................. 8
1.3 Departments in Pantaloons ............................................................................... 9
Category ............................................................................................................... 10
Sourcing ............................................................................................................... 10
Retail Planning & Allocation.................................................................................. 11
Technical & Quality ............................................................................................... 11
Marketing .............................................................................................................. 11
Operations ............................................................................................................ 11
HR ........................................................................................................................ 11
Admin ................................................................................................................... 11
Accounts ............................................................................................................... 12
1.4 Structure of Sourcing........................................................................................ 12
1.5 Roles & Responsibilities ..................................................................................... 13
1.6 INTRODUCTION TO PROJECT ........................................................................ 15
1.6.1 INDIAN APPAREL MARKET ....................................................................... 16
Growing Domestic Market .................................................................................... 16
Concept of Sustainable Fashion: .......................................................................... 17
Chapter 2 ..................................................................................................................... 19
Review of literature ...................................................................................................... 19
2.1 Review of Literature............................................................................................ 20
1. Sustainable Apparel Materials - Randolph Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed Miller
and Suzanne Greene ........................................................................................... 20

1
 2. Textile Remanufacturing and Energy Savings- Sahil Sahni1 , Avid Boustani1 ,
Timothy Gutowski, Steven Graves ....................................................................... 21
3. ―New Approach of Synthetic Fibers Industry‖, Textile Exchange ...................... 22
4. Exploration of the meaning of sustainability in textiles and apparel discipline and
prospects for curriculum enhancement- Anupama Pasricha ................................ 22
Chapter 3 ..................................................................................................................... 24
Research Methodology ................................................................................................ 24
3 Research Methodology ......................................................................................... 25
3.1Secondary Research ....................................................................................... 25
3.1.1 Sustainable Sourcing ................................................................................... 27
3.1.2 Sustainable Manufacturing Practices ........................................................... 32
3.2 Primary Research ........................................................................................... 37
CHAPTER 4................................................................................................................. 47
IMPLEMENTATION ..................................................................................................... 47
4.1 Development of Sustainable Garments Development Process .......................... 48
Chapter 5 ..................................................................................................................... 52
Limitations and Further Scope ..................................................................................... 52
5.1 Further Scope .................................................................................................... 53
Sustainable Retail Practices ................................................................................. 53
5.2 Limitations .......................................................................................................... 55
Chapter 6 ........................................................................................................................ i
Appendix ......................................................................................................................... i
6.1 Energy Consumption Details ................................................................................ 2
6.2 COST SHEET ...................................................................................................... 3
6.3 COST SHEET ...................................................................................................... 4
6.3 COST SHEET ...................................................................................................... 4
6.4 COST SHEET ...................................................................................................... 5
6.5 DETAILS OF MATERIALS ................................................................................... 6
6.6 Questionnaire ..................................................................................................... 11
Chapter 5 ....................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Bibliography................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.

2
LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1 Revenue mix by Brand/Revenue mix by Category .......................................... 9

Figure.2 Various Departments in Organization ............................................................ 10
Figure.3 Hierarchy of sourcing department .................................................................. 14
Figure 4. Indian Textile and Apparel Market ................................................................ 16
Figure 5. Process flow of Bamboo Fabric .................................................................... 30
Figure 6. Lyocell Production method ........................................................................... 31
Figure 7. Birla excel Advantage ................................................................................... 31
Figure 8. Shopping Habit of respondents .................................................................... 37
Figure 9.Graph on frequency of shopping ................................................................... 38
Figure 10. Graph on consumer understanding of sustainable garment ...................... 39
Figure 11.Consumer Perception‘ ................................................................................. 40
Figure 12.Consumer Perception .................................................................................. 40
Figure 13. Parameters to decide whether to buy sustainable garment or conventional
garment ....................................................................................................................... 42
Figure 14. Parameters to decide whether to buy sustainable garment or conventional
garment ....................................................................................................................... 42
Figure 15. Graph showing respondents interest in recycling ....................................... 43
Figure 16. Process of making Denim fabric ................................................................. 48
Figure 17. Process of making Recycled Denim fabric ................................................. 49
Figure18. Process of Recycled cotton ......................................................................... 50
Figure 19. Loop of sustainability ................................................................................. 53
Figure 20.Rag Route ................................................................................................... 55

3
 Chapter 1
Introduction

4
1.1 Introduction to Aditya Birla
The Aditya Birla Group traces its origins back to the village of Pilani in the Rajasthan
desert, where Seth Shiv Narayan Birla started cotton trading operations in 1857.
Today, the Group's footprint extends to 36 countries and its revenues are US$40
billion. Aditya Birla is an US

$40 billion corporation which is in the League of Fortune 500 companies. It is secured
by an astonishing force of over 120,000 employees belonging to 42 nationalities. The
Group has been ranked Number 4 in the global 'Top Companies for Leaders' survey
and ranked Number1 in Asia Pacific for 2011. '

Top Companies for Leaders' is the most comprehensive study of organisational

leadership in the world conducted by Aon Hewitt, Fortune Magazine, and RBL (a
strategic HR and Leadership Advisory firm). The Group has topped the Nielsen's
Corporate Image Monitor

2013-14 and emerged as the Number 1 corporate, the 'Best in Class', for the second
consecutive year.

Over 50 per cent of the Aditya Birla Group's revenues flow from its overseas
operations. The Group operates in 36 countries – Australia, Austria, Bangladesh,
Brazil, Canada, China, Egypt, France, Germany, Hungary, India, Indonesia, Italy, Ivory
Coast, Japan, Korea, Laos, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Poland,
Russia, Singapore, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Tanzania,
Thailand, Turkey, UAE, UK, USA, and Vietnam.

The Global Scenario

With operations in more than 36 countries, Aditya Birla is known for a wide variety of
products

1. No.1 in viscose staple fibre

2. The fourth-largest producer of acrylic fibre

3. No.1 in carbon black

4. The fourth-largest producer of insulators

5. Among the top 10 cement producers

6. Among the best energy-efficient fertiliser plants

7. The largest Indian MNC with manufacturing operations in the USA

The Indian Scenario

• The largest fashion (premium branded apparel) and lifestyle player

5
• The second-largest manufacturer and largest exporter of viscose filament yarn

• Among the top two supermarket chains in the retail business

• The largest producer in the chlor-alkali sector

• Among the top three mobile telephony companies

• A leading player in life insurance and asset management

Beyond Business
Reaches out to seven million people, annually, through the Aditya Birla Centre for

Community Initiatives and Rural Development spearheaded by Mrs. Rajashree Birla

Focuses on healthcare, education, sustainable livelihood, infrastructure and espousing

social reform in India, Brazil and Egypt, as well as Philippines, Thailand, Laos,
Indonesia, Korea and other Asian countries

In India
The Aditya Birla Group runs 42 schools, which provide quality education to 45,000
children. Of these 18,000 respondents belong to the underprivileged segment.
Merit scholarships are given to an additional 12,000 children from the interiors.

The 18 hospitals run by the Aditya Birla Group tend to more than a million villagers.In
line with its commitment to sustainable development, the Aditya Birla Group has
partnered with Columbia University in establishing the Columbia Global Centre's Earth
Institute in Mumbai.

The idea of embedding CSR as a way of life in organisations has led to the setting up
of the FICCI – Aditya Birla CSR Centre for Excellence, in Delhi.

The Aditya Birla Group transcends the conventional barriers of business because we
believe it is our duty to facilitate inclusive growth.

VISION & VALUES

Vision

To be a premium global conglomerate, with a clear focus on each of the businesses

Mission

To deliver superior value to our customers, shareholders, employees and society at

large

6
Values

Integrity – Acting and taking decisions in a manner that is fair and honest. Following
the highest standards of professionalism and being recognised for doing so. Integrity
for us means not only financial and intellectual integrity, but encompasses all other
forms as are generally understood.

Commitment – On the foundation of Integrity, doing all that is needed to deliver value
to all stakeholders. In the process, being accountable for our own actions and
decisions, those of our team and those in the part of the organisation for which we are
responsible.

Passion – An energetic, intuitive zeal that arises from emotional engagement

with the organisation that makes work joyful and inspires each one to give his
or her best. A voluntary, spontaneous and relentless pursuit of goals and objectives
with the highest level of energy and enthusiasm

Seamlessness – Thinking and working together across functional groups, hierarchies,

businesses and geographies. Leveraging diverse competencies and perspectives to
garner the benefits of synergy while promoting organizational unity through sharing and
collaborative efforts

Speed – Responding to internal and external customers with a sense of

urgency. Continuously striving to finish before deadlines and choosing the best rhythm
to optimize organizational efficiencies.

1.2 Introduction Pantaloons

Pantaloons is one of the fastest growing lifestyle apparel retail destination in India
constantly innovating designs, concepts and products by infusing the latest
trends in fashion and clothing styles. A chain of stores for every Indian, Pantaloons
has a repertoire of lifestyle brands to cater to every consumer needs across
multiple occasions. The warm and personalized service offered by every store truly
brings out the unique value proposition of the format.

Pantaloons was launched amidst much fanfare in Gariahat, Kolkata in 1997. Over the
years, the brand has undergone several transitions therefore re-inventing itself to bring
forth compelling trends and styles for men, women and kids. It started as a discount
format, moving to a family concept store and finally evolved into a fashion destination
with a sharp focus on bringing the latest in fashion.

Pantaloons retails over 200 brands which comprise a mix of exclusive brands,
licensed brands, international brands and more in apparel as well as accessories
leaving the consumer spoilt for choices. The greatest asset of Pantaloons is our
exclusive brands that keep customers coming back to our stores. What sets these
brands apart is that each of the designs are crafted keeping the consumer‘s fashion
sensibilities and fashion needs in mind.

7
Brands at Pantaloons
Pantaloons offers a wide range of brands for men, women and kids with choices
across categories including western wear, ethnic wear, formal wear, party wear, active
wear and accessories making it a one stop destination for all the fashion needs of the
consumers.

The women‘s section houses our exclusive brands that offer different collections for a
wide range of occasions:

Ethnic wear exclusive brands include the mix-n-match range by Rangmanch, fusion
wear by Akkriti and occasion wear by Trishaa. Western wear exclusive brands include
Ajile for the fitness conscious, trendy casual wear by Honey, smart formals and
evening wear by Annabelle.

The men‘s section houses a plethora of options that includes our range of exclusive
brands as well as India‘s favorite brands. Western wear exclusive brands include edgy
casuals by SF Jeans, preppy British sports inspired collection by Byford, sports luxe by
Ajile and party wear by F
Factor.

Formal wear section offers a range of crisp and well tailored collection by popular
international brands like Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Peter England and Louis
Philippe.

The kid‘s section has something to offer for all age groups starting from 1 mont h old
toddlers to 12 year old teens. The portfolio of brands includes infant wear by Chirpie
Pie, ethnic wear by Akkriti, casual wear by Chalk and Poppers.In an endeavor to meet
the consumer‘s ever-changing fashion needs, Pantaloons has introduced new brands
that include – Candies, New York, for young fashionistas who like to flaunt their
style.San Frisco Jeans Co, that offers the latest edgy styles in denim wear for young
men and women.Byford, est. 1919 a British inspired sport lifestyle brand that offers
polished preppy collection.Alto Moda, high fashion for plus sized peoplePoppers,
bubbly, cheerful kids wear brand for young boys and girls.In addition to this vast range
of brands, Pantaloons also has a well established repertoire of partner brands such as
Lombard, Bare Denim, Bare Leisure, JM Sport Classic, RIG, Turtle, Spykar, Lee
Cooper, 109F, AND, Chemistry, Global Desi, Biba, Giny&Jony and Barbie

8
.

Figure 1 Revenue mix by Brand/Revenue mix by Category

With a chain of 101 fashion stores across 47 cities and towns, Pantaloons is constantly
extending its foot-print into the rest of modern India. It spans a retail space of 1.7
million square feet which is amongst the largest in India.

Voted as ‗India‘s Most Trusted Apparel Retail Brand‘ in the prestigious Brand Equity
Survey 2014, Pantaloons continues to nurture consumer trust and confidence.

1.3 Departments in Pantaloons

For a task to be successfully accomplished, it takes synchronization between
many departments. To understand how sourcing works it is critical to understand
the various departments in the company with its key responsibilities

Design

Studying the fashion trends and anticipate designs that will appeal to consumers.
responsible for analyzing trends in the domestic as well as international markets,
creating products and designing range of garments

Select fabrics, embellishments, colors, or style for each garment or accessory, work
with other designers or team members to create a prototype design

9
 Design

Planning &
Buying
Allocation

Category /
Operations
Buying

Marketing Admin

Supply
Accounts
chain
HR &
Quality

Figure.2 Various Departments in Organization

Category
Responsible for planning & buying the appropriate fabric, trims/finished garments at the
right cost, right time and right place.

Responsible for a deep understanding of the contemporary trends in fabrics

&garment.

Sourcing
Responsible for product development and advising on quality and feasibility

Responsible for manufacturing/ delivering garments at the right time at agreed costs
and pre-defined quality standards.

10
Retail Planning & Allocation
Responsible for allocation of merchandise to right stores at the right time in order to
achieve sales and profitability targets.

Collaborating with the buying team to monitor daily sales, besides looking into
season's markdown and sales markdown.

Responsible for the sale of national brands – apparels /non apparels through strategic
retail channels along with achieving retail sales and profitability targets

Technical & Quality

Responsible for overseeing and evaluating the technical aspects of a garment in terms
of measurements, silhouettes and patterns

Ensuring that product quality is delivered as per the norms & specifications set out by
the company before the product reaches the warehouse.

Supply Chain

Ensuring seamless movement of goods from vendor to warehouse and stock

movement from warehouse to various stores.

Marketing
To create, communicate and reinforce brand persona in the psyche of the target
consumers. Responsible for turning walk-ins into frequent buyers through customized
offerings, thereby resulting in customer loyalty.

Operations
Responsible for sales & margin, implementation of processes, customer experience at
stores and MPM adherence. To Identify new properties & negotiate with builders

HR
Responsible for recruitment, providing compensation and benefits, maintaining
employee relationship and providing training and development periodical

Admin
Provision of offices space and office equipment for all staff e.g. Computers, ensuring a
clean and secure office environment, ensuring availability of adequate lighting, water,
telecommunication, email, fax, computers etc.

11
Accounts
Responsible for tracking ensuring correct amount is received and paid, to prepare
financial reports that can be used for budgeting, forecasting and other decision
making processes.

1.4 Structure of Sourcing

The sourcing department in any company is the one of the most crucial departments as
it is directly responsible for the procurement of the product, while it is also
responsible for manufacturing/ delivering garments at the right time, at agreed costs
and pre-defined quality standards.

The sourcing of Pantaloons is basically divided on the basis of the fabric category and
not on the basis of brand, with the exception of Ethnic wear, though it comprises mostly
of wovens a separate division has been allocated to surcing of Ethnic Wear. The
division in terms of fabric helps the company to source similar type / quality of fabrics in
bulk, thus ensuring lesser price and similar products of different brands can be placed
with the same vendor to obtain better quality. The sourcing is divided into 6 categories,
these are as mentioned below –

Division 1 Knits

This division sources all knitted apparel, which include top and bottom wear, within the
knits division the team is categorised into Men‘s, Women‘s and Kid‘s.

Division 2 Wovens & Denims

The wovens division of sourcing is bifurgated into two separate teams, Woven Tops /
Shirts &Woven‘s bottom which is further segregated into Men‘s, Women‘s and Kid‘s
and Woven and denim bottoms wherein a single team procures for all the 3
categories..

Division 3 Flat Knits & Accessories

This division is responsible for sourcing all flat knits and accessories like belts, scarves
etc for all the categories.

Division 4 Fabric (Woven)

This division is responsible for sourcing woven fabrics for all departments, which is
then handed over to the garment sourcing division

Division 5 Trims

This division is responsible for the sourcing of various trims like buttons, zippers, tabs,
packing trims etc. for all departments

Division 6 Ethnic Wear

12
This division is responsible for the sourcing of Ethnic wear in the category of men‘s and
women.

1.5 Roles & Responsibilities

The key responsibility of the sourcing department is the ontime procurement and
delivery of the merchandise at the right price at the pre defined quality. The
sourcing department basically directs and oversees the development and progress of
the product from sampling to shipment, they are responsible to execute the orders
perfectly.

The 3 major responsibilities of this department are –

1. Product Development
2. Costing / Negotiation
3. Directing & following up for the production

Other responsibilities include –

1. Capacity Planning
2. Vendor Allocation\
3. Follow up for Salesmen Sample (Known as Proto Sample in Pantaloons)
4. Booking orders
5. Confirming deliveries
6. Preparing internal order sheets
7. Preparing vendor purchase orders
8. Internal & external communication,
9. Pre production activities – Closing approvals on trims, accessories, lab dips,
print & embrodiery strike offs, fit samples, bulk yardage and PP Sample
10. Production activities – Follow up on daily production, advising and
assisting production approval of shipment samples and following for bulk
inspection and shipment.
11. Helping documentation department

13
 Sourcing Head
(Amit Mishra)

AVP Mens Sourcing

(Amit Dashora)

AGM Mens Knits

(Niraj Singh)

Deputy Sourcing
Manager
(Kunal Singh)

Asst. Manager
(Rajeev Lochan)

Asst. Manager
(Monisha Singh)

Figure.3 Hierarchy of sourcing department

14
1.6 INTRODUCTION TO PROJECT
India has been witnessing sustained high growth of GDP since 1991 of ~ 6% per year
leading to fundamental transformation of the economy. There are many growth drivers
for these changes include favorable demographics, dropping dependency ratio and
rapidly rising education levels.

The textile and apparel industry can be broadly divided into two segments - yarn and
fibre, and processed fabrics and apparel. India accounts for ~14 per cent of the world's
production of textile fibres and yarns (largest producer of jute, second largest producer
of silk and cotton, and third largest in cellulosic fibre).

India has the highest loom capacity (including hand looms) with 63 per cent of the
world's market share.The domestic textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to
reach US$ 141 billion by 2021 from US$ 67 billion in 2014. Increased penetration of
organised retail, favourable demographics, and rising income levels are likely to drive
demand for textiles. India is the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing.

Textile and apparel exports from India are expected to increase to US$ 82 billion by
2021. Readymade garments remain the largest contributor to total textile and apparel
exports from India, contributing 40 per cent to total textile and apparel exports. Cotton
and man-made textiles were the other major contributors with shares of 31 per cent
and 16 per cent, respectively.

In this fast growing trend there is a scope of major strategies for Business to grow and
become show themselves differently.

Environmental sustainability is the ability to maintain the qualities that are valued in the
physical environment. It is clearly emerging that the world‘s coastline and watersheds
are increasingly affected by economic changes and environmental degradation,
consumers have become edgy about the effect of human activity on the environment.
In such a scenario, environment sustainability has become an industry in itself. With
increasing concerns regarding the effect of the textile industry on the environment, at
all stages of its chain, i.e. raw material, fiber, fabric, apparel, processing; more and
more textile researchers, producers and manufacturers are looking to biodegradable
and sustainable fibers as an effective way of reducing the impact textiles have on the
environment. More and more people are now focusing on the responsibility of industry
and consumer priorities, and introducing new measuring tools for electricity and water
usage, carbon footprint and traceability.

As consumers in the other countries get aware of sustainability issues, it is going to

put tremendous pressure on Indian manufacturers to comply. The young consumer is
moving from the industrial economy to the sustainable economy and
manufacturers/retailers globally have to build that into our processes. Hence
companies need to gear up towards going green and give more weightage to
environmental friendliness going forward.

15
The project focuses on the scope of sustainability in the Indian market for a value
fashion retail format. The objective of the project is to study the scope of the Brand in
Indian market and subsequently develop a range which would be based on sustainable
materials, processes or manufacturing.

1.6.1 INDIAN APPAREL MARKET

The present size of Indian Textile and Apparel market is US$ 62 Billion out of which
US$ 22 Billion is contributed by exports while the rest US$ 40 Billion is domestic
market.

Growing Textile and Apparel Exports

Exports in Textiles and Apparel have registered a strong growth in the last few years
with 11% CAGR from 2004-05 to 2007-08. The single largest category is woven
apparel followed by knitted apparel, made-ups and cotton based textiles.

Figure 4. Indian Textile and Apparel Market

Growing Domestic Market

Indian domestic textiles and apparel market is one of the fastest growing market in the
world and offers huge market potential for textile and apparel manufacturers. It is
expected to become one of the major consumption bases in near future. Out of the
total market size of US $ 40 Billion, Clothing contributes US $ 30 Billion, while rest
US$10 billion is contributed by Textiles (Home textiles, Technical textiles and other
textiles end-uses). The domestic market has shown a significant growth in past few
years registering a Compounded Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of ~13%. Despite the
recent demand slump, the domestic market is expected to grow at around 9% in the
next 5 years.

In this context, the industry needs to focus on the domestic market more intensely and
understand the market dynamics in more detail in order to tap the complete potential.
Further we discuss these opportunities for Indian textile and apparel companies in the
domestic market and strategies for developing sustainable businesses with the
changing requirements of the domestic market.

16
Road Ahead
The future for the Indian textile industry looks promising, buoyed by both strong
domestic consumption as well as export demand. With consumerism and disposable
income on the rise, the retail sector has experienced a rapid growth in the past decade
with the entry of several international players like Marks & Spencer, Guess and Next
into the Indian market. The organised apparel segment is expected to grow at a
Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of more than 13 per cent over a 10-year
period.
The Union Ministry of Textiles, which has set a target of doubling textile exports in 10
years, plans to enter into bilateral agreements with Africa and Australia along with
working on a new textile policy to promote value addition, apart from finalising
guidelines for the revised Textile Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS).
The Indian cotton textile industry is expected to showcase a stable growth in FY2017-
18, supported by stable input prices, healthy capacity utilisation and steady domestic
demand.

Concept of Sustainable Fashion:

“We are committed to give back more than what we take from our eco-system”- Mr
Pranab

Barua, Business Director,ABFRL

Many environmental words such as "environmentally friendly", "natural", "organic,"

"green", "recycle" and "renewable" as most similar to "sustainability",. Meanwhile,
words such as "ethical," "trust", "trustworthy", "collaboration", "community" and
"transparency" ranked low in their perceived relationship to sustainability.

Sustainable fashion represents an approach to the design, sourcing and manufacturer

of clothing which maximizes benefits to people and communities while minimizing the
impact on the environment.

We believe that a business or initiative is not sustainable unless the triple bottom line is
integrated at the core of business practices and policy, from board level to studio,
shop, or factory floor

1. SOCIAL

Increasing the capacity and wellbeing of the people and communities behind fashion.
Any fashion business depends on the people behind it. In a broader context, poverty
and exploitation of the human workforce behind fashion affects the stability of the
industry itself.

2. ENVIRONMENTAL

Minimising the environmental impact of all business operations, throughout the supply
chain. Creating and acting upon opportunities to reduce environmental issues beyond
the immediate operations- such as awareness raising, investment in and support of
environmental initiatives.

17
3. ECONOMIC

Without a robust financial business model, none of the above can be achieved.
Good intentions without an effective business structure can backfire. A
sustainable approach includes quality products or services that meet market needs
and demands and are fairly marketed.

Certain criteria for ethical or sustainable fashion, to inform the fashion industry:

• Defending fair wages, working conditions and workers‘ rights.

• Supporting sustainable livelihoods.
• Addressing toxic pesticide and chemical use.
• Using and / or developing eco- friendly fabrics and components.
• Minimizing water use.
• Recycling and addressing energy efficiency and waste.
• Developing or promoting sustainability standards for fashion.
• Resources, training and/ or awareness raising initiatives.

18
 Chapter 2
Review of literature

19
2.1 Review of Literature

1. Sustainable Apparel Materials - Randolph Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed

Miller and Suzanne Greene
Second to oil, fashion and textiles is the most polluting industry in the world. Every
stage in a garment‘s life threatens our planet and its resources. It can take more
than 2,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of cotton, equivalent to a single t-shirt and
pair of jeans. Up to 8,000 different chemicals are used to turn raw materials into
clothes, including a range of dyeing and finishing processes. In order to achieve a
sustainable and harmonious relationship between the economy and the
environment, it is the responsibility of both consumers and business to consume
natural resources efficiently, reduce pollution, and protect the global environment and
eco-system through sustainable fashion.

With the influx of global brands and retailers entering the Indian market, consumer
behaviour has shown the awareness and demand for ethical fashion in India seems to
be picking up and is expected to have a 6-8% total market share by 2018. Global
brands like Marks & Spencers, Duke, Nike and Van Heusen have introduced their
‗green‘ ranges in India but many of these brands have not used it as a differentiator.
―Ethics can only be an add-on, it cannot be a unique selling proposition(USP). Even
fast fashion brands are making its presence in sustainable fashion by the name H&M
Conscious, Zara by using fabrics like better cotton, organic cotton and lyocell.

One company taking a step is The North Face— an easy step considering its customer
base is one who loves to be in the outdoors. The company recently modified a
popular line of its jackets using recycled yarns, including one made from both
fabric scraps and recycled bottles. It is hardly a closed-loop system, but it is getting
there: The North Face says for every

10 jackets produced, four more jackets can be produced out of those scraps. Other
global chains, including Marks & Spencer and H&M, say they are collecting
textiles for reuse, recycling and repurposing. But so far the progress on sustainable
textiles, while growing impressive, is still a drop in the bucket in the sea of waste and
over-consumption that is a massive blot the global fashion industry.

Quick Facts to know:

150,000,000,000: The number of new clothing items produced each year.

2,500,000,000: Pounds of used clothing that end up in landfills each year.

2,100,000: Tons of CO2 emissions produced by the apparel and textile industry each
year(second only to the petroleum industry).

Between 70,000,000 and 100,000,000: The number of trees cut down each year to
make cellulose fabrics such as rayon and modal.

20
700: Gallons of water it takes to make one T-shirt.

10 percent: The percentage of the world‘s total carbon footprint that comes from the
apparel industry. (To put it in perspective, the aviation industry accounts for 2 percent.)

Aditya Birla Group Vision:

By 2017, the Aditya Birla Group endeavours to become the leading Indian
conglomerate for sustainable business practices across its global operations.”

The Aditya Birla Group‘s philosophy has always emphasised commitment

to the environment and the planet. The long-term sustainability of our business is
actively encouraged through a three-step agenda:

Responsible stewardship: To manage business operations as responsibly as

possible- creating a safe working environment at all sites and workplaces;
conserving energy and water; managing waste and emissions and protecting human
rights.

Stakeholder engagement: To build stronger relationships with stakeholders

to gain understanding of material aspects and trends that could impact the business.
This includes interaction with key technical experts on climate change, water and
waste management, developments in human rights legislation, safety standards, health
impacts and the like.

Future proofing: To embed sustainability trends into strategic business plans to

minimise the risks and find new opportunities relating to the needs of sustainable
industry.

Sustainability is a core aspect of all business operations, and our companies

demonstrate a commitment that goes beyond mere compliance with laws and
regulation.

2. Textile Remanufacturing and Energy Savings- Sahil Sahni1 , Avid

Boustani1 , Timothy Gutowski, Steven Graves
This study looks into evaluating the energy saving potential of remanufacturing textiles,
so as to (a) save on the energy restored during material processing, textile production
and distribution; (b) avoid landfilling of textiles which causes environmental
degradation. In order to do so, the relative life cycle energy inventories for new and
reused textiles are estimated. Textiles by itself is a broad term and is defined as any
type of material made from fibers or extended linear materials such as thread or yarn .
In this report two types of textiles are looked at: • A cotton t-shirt • A viscose blouse

In the above study the energy savings benefit of reusing clothing and textiles has been
evaluated. Since the use phase involves washing, drying and ironing, the use phase
varies considerably from consumer to consumer. As a result several cases were
considered for the use phase. All cases showed significant savings by reusing textiles.

21
For approximately 12 wash/iron cycles in the life time of clothes, the savings are 57%
for the t-shirt and 91% for the blouse. Even if the use is extended over six fold to 75
cycles, the savings are 19% and 68% respectively. Hence, the analysis strongly
concludes that reusing textiles and clothing is the energy savings strategy.

3. “New Approach of Synthetic Fibers Industry”, Textile Exchange

Synthetic fibers are the most popular fibers in the world – it‘s estimated that synthetics
account for about 65% of world production versus 35% for natural fibers.[1] Most
synthetic fibers (approximately 70%) are made from polyester, and the polyester most
often used in textiles is polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Used in a fabric, it‘s most
often referred to as ―polyester‖ or ―poly‖.

The majority of the world‘s PET production – about 60% – is used to make fibers for
textiles; about 30% is used to make bottles. It‘s estimated that it takes about 104
million barrels of oil for PET production each year – that‘s 70 million barrels just to
produce the virgin polyester used in fabrics.[2] That means most polyester – 70 million
barrels worth – is manufactured specifically to be made into fibers, NOT bottles, as
many people think. Of the 30% of PET which is used to make bottles, only a tiny
fraction is recycled into fibers. But the idea of using recycled bottles – ―diverting waste
from landfills‖ – and turning it into fibers has caught the public‘s imagination.

4. Exploration of the meaning of sustainability in textiles and apparel

discipline and prospects for curriculum enhancement- Anupama
Pasricha
This study leads to a comprehensive understanding of ecological literacy as
knowledge, attitudes, and actions or behavior. The ecologically literate person has the
knowledge necessary to comprehend interrelatedness among individuals, society and
nature, an attitude of care or stewardship, and the practical competence required to act
on the basis of knowledge and feelings (Orr, 1992). Lawrence (2005) states that,
―there is a continual interchange among ecological, economic, other social and
cultural components of human ecosystems .A study conducted by Robertson (2007)
substantiated the interconnectedness of personal, curricular, programmatic,
institutional, community, and policy system level bridges and barriers to nurture
ecological literacy in environmental education in British Columbia.

Results of this research suggest several dimensions and issues of importance for
respondents, especially for, but not necessarily restricted to, textiles and apparel
respondents. These dimensions and issues are briefly described below: Respondents
use a variety of terms to define sustainability, but a complete understanding and
comprehensive definition is absent. This indicates that respondents need education to
learn more about sustainability and understand all the components of sustainability.
Respondents seem to have an ecocentric belief system because environment was a
term they closely associated with sustainability. This indicates that components of

22
human interdependence and social responsibility should be communicated to
respondents through the curriculum. While developing a scale, items from the NHIP
developed by Corral-Verdugo (2008) could be considered for inclusion. Respondents
interpreted the literal as well as figurative meanings of sustainability while the literature
mainly focuses on the figurative meanings. The term organic also has multiple
meanings in the minds of respondents emphasizing the ambiguity of terms associated
with sustainability. One of the industry experts suggested that a universal glossary is
needed and communicated through curriculum. Lifestyle habits emerged as a strong
theme throughout the focus group interviews. It was identified as an ecological
challenge.

23
 Chapter 3
Research Methodology

24
3 Research Methodology
The methodology is the general research strategy that outlines the way in which
research is to be undertaken and, among other things, identifies the methods to
be used in it. These methods, described in the methodology, define the means of
data collection as well.

3.1Secondary Research
Secondary research is taken to include the re-use by a second party of any data
collected by a first party or parties.

It includes online research to find out existing brands doing sustainable or green
collections in their clothing. And also to find out what types of raw materials are being
used in the collections.

1. H&M

The apparel company launched its worldwide Garment Collecting Initiative back in
2013 and has since collected over 40,000 tons of clothing. Customers can bring any
unwanted garments and textiles, from any brand and in any condition, to any H&M
store, all year round. The goal is to increase the amount of garments collected, every
year, until they reach a total collected volume of 25,000 tons per year by 2020.

Now, H&M is looking to amp up its efforts with its new “Bring It” garment collecting
campaign. The campaign kicked off with a new film directed by Crystal Moselle, which
aims to raise awareness on the importance of garment recycling.

H&M wants to close the loop on fashion by giving customers an easy solution to hand
in unwanted garments so they can be reused or recycled through H&M‘s garment
collecting initiative. By doing so, fewer garments go to landfill. The "Bring It" film tells
the journey that unwanted garments go on after they have been collected in store and
illustrates how the lifespan of a garment can be increased to keep it in the loop for as
long as possible.

In 2014 H&M also introduced its first Close the Loop collection made with recycled
textile fibers - an important step in closing the loop for fashion. A new exclusive online
collection consisting of two Close the Loop products made entirely out of used denim
will be released during week five.

Closing the loop is a central commitment of H&M‘s work towards a sustainable

fashion future. The aim is to create a closed loop for textiles, so that unwanted
clothes can be reused and recycled to create fresh textile fibers for new
products. In turn, this will help to save natural resources and ensure that zero
garments go to landfill.

25
2. M&S

M&S states that its stores, offices, delivery fleets and warehouses in the UK and
Ireland are now carbon-neutral. The company met this goal
by improving energy efficiency at its stores, while purchasing
―high quality offsets‖ to balance out the rest of its emissions.
Overall, M&S‘ CO2 emissions are down 23 percent since the
company‘s 2006-2007 fiscal year. Among the many statistics the company touts is the
fact its stores‘ energy efficiency per square foot has increased 31 percent since Plan A
started in 2007.

As for waste, M&S‘ most impressive accomplishment is the progress of

its Shopping initiative. The partnership with the non-profit, Oxfam, in which customers
can drop off unwanted garments at M&S stores in the UK, has diverted almost 4 million
articles of clothing out of landfills and netted the NGO £2.3 million for various
programs. Other waste diversion initiatives involve more education. On food waste,
M&S was vague—the company and other retailers need to do more than ―educate‖
consumers in a country that wastes 30 to 40 percent of all food annually.

When it comes to fashion, the clothing M&S stocks in its stores have become far more
sustainable than it was just a few years ago. From more recycled materials to the
increased usage of eco-friendly materials, 41 percent of all M&S items now have a
―Plan A‖ sustainable feature, up sharply from a few years ago. Shwopping has resulted
in a women‘s coat made from recycled fibers, and M&S also introduced a ―sustainable‖
men‘s suit comprised of organic wool with reclaimed plastic buttons.

People

Throughout its UK stores, M&S has rolled out more ethical food products. Sales of fair-
trade certified food have doubled since 2010, which in turn diverts more money to the
farmers abroad who grow crops from coffee to cacao. And with all the controversy over
conditions in garment factories across the globe, M&S comes across as proactive
when it comes to the oversight of its suppliers and their employees throughout the
company‘s supply chain. Since 2010, the company has offered over 240,000

26
employees training over a variety of governance, environmental and social issues. The
company, however, was vague about how the training was actually delivered. Was this
more than popping in a DVD at the front of a training room? How intensive was all this
―training?‖

Within its internal operations and stores, M&S gives the impression its stores were
successful in engaging both customers and employees. On one hand, customers
benefit from a variety of programs, such as nutritional information on dedicated sites
where they can learn about the farmers and suppliers who stock M&S stores with their
various products. Meanwhile, customers and M&S employees often work side-by-side,
from beach cleanup in the UK to Christmas card recycling (199 tons last year) after the
holidays.

Other brands who choose sustainability are Adidas, Levi’s, G-star, splash.

Key Findings- Sustainable Fashion

All strategies promoting more environmentally, socially and ethically conscious

production and consumption are important steps towards a more sustainable industry

3.1.1 Sustainable Sourcing

One of the easiest ways to get your company on the sustainable track is to do a little
research into the sourcing of your raw materials. Many popular materials are
resource-intensive to cultivate and harvest. For example, cotton is used in 50% of all
apparel manufactured, but requires a huge amount of water and pesticides to be
properly cultivated.

1. ORGANIC COTTON

Organic cotton is grown without pesticides, chemical fertilizers or any other

chemicals. It is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the
environment and farm workers. Though organic cotton farming represents a
significantly smaller environmental footprint, it cost more to produce. But the benefits
against conventional cotton are vast. It gains large benefits on humantiy and our eco-
system such as massive saving our precious water, no polluting of environment
through toxic exposure, ensuring a healthier working environmental for the farmers
and mill workers and p

27
Providing a healthier, higher-quality product without skin-irritation for the end user.
People with allergies and chemical sensitivity especially benefit from organic
cotton clothing. Even if you don‘t have sensitive skin, organic cotton will just feel better
against your skin. Organic cotton has further the same properties as
conventional cotton, it has only an amazing softer touch which is existed by using no
chemicals.

Side Effects of Conventional Cotton There are high environmental and social impacts
associated with conventional cotton, including:

1. Water loss and pollution

2. Income vulnerability

3. Non renewable resource depletion

4. Air pollution and greenhouse gas emissions.

5. Biodiversity loss, especially insects that are natural predators of cotton pests

6. Debate on Food/ Fuel/ Fibre - managing the increasing demand for food, fuel as
well as fibre

7. Environmental impacts and human health impacts by exposure to hazardous

pesticides

8. Child, bonded and forced labour

9. Soil Erosion and degradation

2. BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE (BCI)

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a not-for-profit organisation stewarding the

global standards for Better Cotton, and bringing together cotton‘s complex supply
chain, from the farmers to the retailers. BCI exists to make global cotton production
better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better
for the sector‘s future, by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream
commodity. As BCI does not train farmers directly, experienced and efficient
Implementing Partners are crucial for the success of the Better Cotton Initiative.

 To enable increased capacity and credibility of our Implementing Partners (and

therefore maximise change at farm level), BCI carry out a number of activities.
 A consistent and stringent endorsement process of partners before
implementation.
 A train-the-trainer program for Implementing Partners on how to grow Better
Cotton,
 Regular monitoring of their performance during implementation,
 Fostering learning between Implementing Partners through the sharing of best
practices.

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3.FAIRTRADE COTTON

Fairtrade encourages sustainable cotton production and is the only standard to provide
economic benefits, through a guaranteed Fairtrade Minimum Price and additional

Fairtrade Premium for seed cotton farmers. In 2013, 26 farmers‘ organisations in nine
countries were certified for Fairtrade cotton production and reported Premium
earnings of approximately £464,000. A large percentage of this was invested in
providing farmers with tools and inputs and supporting education facilities in the local
community.

Through Fairtrade, thousands of cotton farmers have already improved their lives.
Cotton co-operatives have become better organised, farmers are more productive and
women farmers are receiving the same rewards as male farmers, from voting rights to
equal pay.

4.RECYCLE COTTON

Recycled cotton comes from old garments and textile leftovers, which are grinded
into fibre, spun into new yarns and weaved into new fabric. It saves raw materials. It
stops old clothes and material going to waste. It means we need to use fewer
resources– including chemicals, water and land. Mechanical recycling of natural fibres
like cotton and wool is currently the most scalable recycling technology for post -
consumer textiles but the result is shorter textile fibres of a lower quality to virgin
fibres. To increase quality, recycled fibres must be blended with virgin fibres.

Recycled cotton can be created from post-industrial (pre-consumer) or post-consumer

waste. Post-industrial waste (also known as pre-consumer waste) utilizes material
created during product manufacturing. Examples of postindustrial waste include
selvage from weaving, fabric remnants, cutting room waste, excess production,
inventory and unsold items.

5.RECYCLED POLYESTER (rPET)

Extracting polyester from plastic bottles and others items makes good sense, as it
takes less energy to convert it than it would to make polyester from scratch. By
choosing it you're helping us make better use of resources. Using recycled polyester
lessens our dependence on petroleum as a source of raw materials. It curbs discards,
thereby prolonging landfill life and reducing toxic emissions from incinerators. It
helps to promote new recycling streams for polyester clothing that is no longer
wearable. And it causes less air, water and soil contamination compared to using non
recycled polyester.

The reason recycled polyester (often written rPET) is considered a green option in
textiles today is twofold, and the argument goes like this:

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Recycling 1 ton of rPET containers saves 7.4 cubic yards of landfill space. Every
pound of rPET used, reduces energy use by 84% and greenhouse gases by
71%.When you recycle 1 plastic bottle you save 6 hours of energy from a 60 watt
light bulb. 90% less water is used in making recycled polyester versus virgin
polyester.It will take 700 years before plastic bottles in landfills start to decompose

6. BAMBOO

Bamboo is frequently proclaimed as the world's most renewable material: it's

naturally pest-resistant, grows incredibly fast and can actually help rebuild eroded
soil. It takes just three or four years to go from seed to harvest and because the root
network is so big, you don't even need to replant - it just shoots right back up again.
Bamboo, therefore, can be grown without any chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Figure 5. Process flow of Bamboo Fabric

7.HEMP

Hemp is a natural fiber that‘s cultivated with low impact on the environment. It
requires no pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Cultivation of hemp
improves soil health by replenishing vital nutrients and preventing erosion. It‘s one of
the most durable natural fibers on the planet and results in fabric with wonderful
drape that‘s comparable to linen. compost, animal manure and available rainfall.
Industrial hemp is illegal to grow in most parts of the world. Activists, businesses and
farmers alike are working hard to get the laws changed, but government agencies
continue to associate it with marijuana.

8. LYOCEL OR TENCEL

TENCEL® is a branded lyocell fiber that comes from the pulp of trees that are grown
on sustainably run farms certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).

The wood pulp is dissolved in a non-toxic organic solvent. The solution is extruded
through fine holes to produce fiber and the solvent is recycled in a closed-loop process
– more than 99% of the solvent is recovered and reused. We ensure that the fabric
processing of TENCEL® lyocell fiber does not utilize any harmful chemicals (like
formaldehyde) sometimes used to finish this type of fabric.

30
Lyocell can be used in place of other regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose
rayon. The benefits of using TENCEL lyocell include the traceable and sustainable
origin of the wood pulp, and the use of non-toxic chemicals and solvents in the fiber
processing. In addition, TENCEL lyocell is a high-tenacity cellulosic fiber, which gives
high strength properties to the fabric.

Figure 6. Lyocell Production method

9.BIRLA EXCEL

Highest fibre strength, lowest environmental impact.Birla Excel is a third generation

fibre, the latest in the line of cellulosic fibres form Birla Cellulose. Made from a highly
refined eco-friendly process that emerged as result of the studies at the Birla
Research Institute, it combines the comfort and luxury of a natural fibre with the
engineered precision of a man-made fibre. Excel comes with a unique set
properties like high strength and dimensional stabilit y, high absorbency,

Smoothness and skin-friendliness. Also adding to the green quotient of this product
is the fact that is made from the choicest wood pulp, a natural and renewable
resource.

Figure 7. Birla excel Advantage

31
3.1.2 Sustainable Manufacturing Practices
The textiles industry is among the most essential consumer goods industry in the world, as
it fulfils one of the basic needs of human beings. Today, the world of fashion is glamorous
and stylish; however, its impact on ecology is worsening day-by-day. The textiles industry
is condemned as being one of the most polluting industries in the world. Not only
production, but even consumption of textiles produces waste. At every stage of textile
production, vast amounts of energy, clean water and chemicals are used to process
textiles and apparel. In turn, these processes generate air, water and soil pollution through
untreated effluent generation and waste generation which place a heavy burden on the
environment.

More than 2,000 types of dyes, chemicals and other auxiliaries are used in the textiles
industry. The World Bank estimates that almost 20 per cent of global industrial water
pollution comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles. Some of the toxic chemicals
cannot be filtered or removed. Dyeing, washing and after-treatment of textiles requires
large amounts of fresh water. Cotton production accounts for 2.6 per cent of annual global
water usage. A single T-shirt made from conventional cotton requires 2,700 litres of water
and a third of a pound of chemicals to produce. Millions of gallons of wastewater
discharged by mills each year contain chemicals such as formaldehyde (HCHO),
ammonia, chlorine, heavy metals such as lead and mercury and other pigments. These
chemicals cause both environmental damage and human disease. Effluents released from
mills are often at high temperatures and have high pH (salinity), which exacerbate the
problem.

Conventional cotton is highly dependent on pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers to grow.

In many regions, insects limit cotton production and some of these pests become resistant
to pesticides. Not surprisingly, cotton pesticides and herbicides account for 10 per cent of
all agricultural chemicals and 25 per cent of all pesticides used worldwide each year.
Untreated dyes cause chemical and biological changes in our aquatic system, which
threaten species of fish and aquatic plants. The presence of these compounds also makes
practical water use unhealthy or dangerous. The enormous amount of water required by
textile production competes with the growing daily water requirements of the half billion
people that live in drought-prone regions of the world. By 2025, the number of inhabitants
of drought-prone areas is projected to increase to almost one-third of the world's
population. If global consumption of fresh water continues to double every 20 years, the
polluted waters resulting from textile production will pose a greater threat to human lives.

Today, the growing awareness of environmental issues makes customers select eco-
friendly products over conventional ones. While end-consumers of textiles were earlier
concerned with only the finished product, there has been an increasing drive to better
32
understand the input materials, the relevant production processes, and their implications
on the environment - be it air, water or soil. Ignorance and indifference to these will no
longer remain an option for the textile supply chain. So, it has become imperative that the
textiles industry should address issues within our supply chain and adopt better and
cleaner technologies. Moving to a greater degree of sustainability in industrial processes
and systems requires that we achieve better balance between social, economic and
environmental aspects of textile production. With increasing awareness of environmental
issues posed by the textiles industry, many technology providers are working towards the
improvement of technology to reduce the environmental damage created by the textiles
industry and reduce consumption of energy, water and chemicals.

The textile wet processing industry is now in the spotlight due to the recent Detox
campaign by Greenpeace and will have to align with the goal of Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals by 2020 that is being pursued by several leading international
brands and retailers.

Following are the technologies currently being used worldwide as a response to

sustainability:

1.Exhaust piece dyeing: A combination of advantages of long tube machine design with
aerodynamic fabric transportation principle has been developed by 'Then' with their new
development - the Then Airflow Lotus machine which is the world's first long tube machine
to operate using the original aerodynamic principle. The objective of the development was
to create a system that would be especially suitable for the wet processing of delicate,
easily creased, cellulose and synthetic fibre knits and wovens with a high percentage of
elastane fibre, which are used in the lingerie, sport, leisure and swimwear segments.
Resource benefits focus on ultra-low liquor ratio 1:2 to 1:5 with associated reduction in
water demand, effluent volume and loading from reduced salt consumption when reactive
dyeing and a reduced energy requirement. Fong's have further refined their Jumbo Flow
machine with Advanced Intelligent Rinsing (AIR) with the option of a conductivity
measurement to detect when the concentration of electrolyte has reduced after reactive
dye processing to a concentration where the rinsing is transferred to the soaping stage,
thereby optimising water consumption. 'Thies' have further developed their EcoMaster
machine incorporating multi-contact dyeing from the double liquor: fabric interchange
design to permit reduced dyeing times and low liquor ratios from 1:3 for synthetics to 1: 4.5
for cotton fabrics, and an auto control of the rinsing procedure using Rinsetronic software
to further reduce process times and water consumption.

2.Cold pad batch dyeing: For vertical knitted fabric operations, there is a renewed
interest in reactive dye application by cold pad batch application due to the lower
consumption of water and reduced effluent loading, with a claimed reduction in variable
costs of 15-30 per cent. The resultant fabric has a much cleaner stitch definition due to no
surface abrasion, and to produce a similar g/ sq.m fabric as exhaust dyeing, an increase in

33
stitch density should be considered at the knitting stage if the cold pad batch application
route is ended. Developments in machine design are mostly for open width processing
using sophisticated auto-centre and edge uncurling devices but also include dosing
pumps, low-liquor troughs and configurations to allow dye application in the nip as well as
in the low-liquor trough. Also, on modern pad rollers the pressure can be adjusted across
the full width to allow uniform liquor pick-up to eliminate side-centre-side variation.
Integrated heating and cooling systems have also been developed to ensure constant
temperature in the pad trough regardless of the time of day/season and thus improve the
reliability of the process re-liquor stability/ hatching time.

3.Continuous dyeing: The Econtrol process utilises the innovation of the Thermex Hot
Flue from Monforts. The innovation exploits the thermodynamics of water evaporation from
cellulose to provide the optimum temperature and moisture conditions within the hot flue
dryer ideal for the efficient fixation of the specially selected reactive dyes. Monforts have in
conjunction with DyStar further developed the successful Econtrol process and at ITMA
Munich in 2007 launched the new Econtrol T-CA process for the colouration of
polyester/cellulose blends. This development combines the humidity control for reactive
dyes with a Thermo sol unit for application of new Dianix T-CA disperse dyes and a new
auxiliary package which obviates the need for an intermediate reduction clear process.
The savings in chemicals, water, and energy are significant. Along with newest machine
technology, the right dye selection also places an important role and hence to maximise
the synergy between innovative machinery design and application process to deliver
productivity, cost efficiency, and environmental benefits, it is critical to optimise dye
selection.

4.Energy efficiency -Energy efficiency is an integral part of sustainability. For many years
textile finishing has operated with chemical and thermal processes which, by present-day
standards, can have a severe impact on the environment. The energy costs are high, and
the use of chemicals absolutely essential. But with innovative ranges and advanced
auxiliaries, Monforts has succeeded in optimising these processes. The savings benefits
that have been achieved in recent years are in some cases, quite considerable.

An excellent example highlighting how the Blue Competence concept can influence R&D
activities is the Matex Eco Applicator - a unit which significantly reduces the initial moisture
content before the drying process. The challenge of sustainability is to save natural
resources without compromising production quality of the final products. The Eco
Applicator ensures reduced energy consumption, faster drying and higher productivity
compared with standard equipment such as padding systems.

Padding is a process employed in the textile industry for wet treatment of textiles. The
fabric or 'substrate' is transported through a trough containing the finishing or dyeing
liquor. The term 'liquor' is generally used to refer to an aqueous liquid in which textiles are
washed, bleached, dyed or impregnated. It contains all the dissolved, emulsified or

34
dispersed constituents such as dyestuffs, pigments or chemicals. During the further course
of the production process, the substrate is transported through rollers to remove the
excess liquor. A liquor absorption of 70 per cent - which is a typical value in standard
padding application - means that 100 kg of textile fabric has to absorb 70 kg of liquor. After
the impregnation process, the wetted fabric is dried in a final step by means of a Montex
stenter. For this process, drying energy is required which, in the textile finishing industry, is
a major cost factor. Influencing factors for the energy consumption and costs of drying
processes are the initial moisture content, residual moisture content, drying temperature
and relative water vapour content of the ambient air. The degree of initial moisture is the
crucial point for determining how much evaporation heat and energy is necessary for
drying.

Reduction of the liquor pick-up, which is the means of operation of the Monforts Matex Eco
Applicator, results in less evaporation of heat and lower operating costs. With the Eco
Applicator, the liquor is not applied to the fabric by dipping it through a trough but by using
steel rollers which transfer the required amount of liquor onto the fabric. With lower waste
water contamination the application unit becomes a resource-conserving alternative to
padding.

Recent developments

Brazzoli has developed a 'Green Label' version of its InnoEcology fabric-rope-dyeing

machine, which it says is geared to reducing consumption of water, steam, energy and
chemicals, as well as to increasing machine productivity, while maintaining the final
product quality. As an example, Brazzoli says a jersey fabric that, in 2011, on an earlier
generation of the machine, required 35 litres of water per kg/ dyed can now be processed
with only 28 litres. The carbon footprint has been reduced to 1.51 kg/CO2 per kilo of fabric,
equal to 0.5 kg/CO2 per T-shirt. In India recently, Alliance Machines Textiles of France,
displayed a new dyeing machine that uses air technology to reduce water usage. The
new, low-liquor-ratio Riviera Eco+ Green is a single-tube machine that uses air to
rearrange the fabric at each revolution, just before it comes into contact with the liquor.
This is said to avoid creases, especially on delicate fabrics. The air is not used for fabric
transport.

Meanwhile, Monforts is shortly to launch a retrofit heat-recovery system for its Montex
stenters. This will allow existing users to achieve the same energy gains as with new
machines, where the system comprises a compact, air-to-air heat exchanger, installed
within the roof structure of the stenter. This uses energy from the exhaust gas to preheat
up to 60 per cent of the incoming fresh air entering the stenter and depending on
production conditions, delivers energy savings of 10-30 per cent.

35
Future of textiles industry

In conventional textile dyeing, large amounts of water are used both in terms of intake of
fresh water and disposal of wastewater. On average, an estimated 100-150 litres of water
is needed to process 1 kg of textile material, with some 28 billion kilos of textiles being
dyed annually. Water is used as a solvent in many pre-treatment and finishing processes,
such as washing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing. Hence, the elimination of process-water
and chemicals would be a real breakthrough for the textile dyeing industry, and it seems
this has now come to fruition, with the launch of the world's first ever industrial dyeing
machine that uses super carbon dioxide as a replacement for water.

When carbon dioxide is heated to above 31°C and pressurised to above 74 bar, it
becomes supercritical, a state of matter that can be seen as an expanded liquid or a
heavily compressed gas. In short, above the critical point, CO2 has properties of both a
liquid and a gas. In this way, supercritical CO2 has liquid-like densities, which is
advantageous for dissolving hydrophobic dyes and gas-like low viscosities and diffusion
properties, which can lead to shorter dyeing times compared to water. Compared to water
dyeing, the extraction of spinning oils, the dyeing and the removal of excess dye can all be
carried out in one plant in the carbon dioxide dyeing process which involves only changing
the temperature and pressure conditions; drying is not required because at the end of the
process CO2 is released in the gaseous state. The CO2 can be recycled easily, up to 90
per cent after precipitation of the extracted matter in a separator. DyeCoo Textile Systems
BV has achieved the unachievable, emancipating the world of fabric manufacturing from
the troubles of water-based textile dyeing process for once and for all. A dyeing machine
named 'DryDye' that utilises CO2 instead of water and extra textile chemical agents is a
highly innovative waterless textile dyeing breakthrough achieved by the Dutch company.

CO2 dyeing technology has become more intelligent and energy efficient with the
discovery of the DryDyedyeing machine. Though the waterless dyeing technology using
CO2 was invented in Germany almost two decades ago, no commercially viable machine
was developed until now. DyeCoo Textile Systems is undoubtedly the laurelled victor
acclaimed by the textile techies around the globe. Though the machine is capable of
dyeing polyester at batches of 100-150 kg, work is under progress to accentuate the
functionality of the waterless textile dyeing machine. The day is not far when reactive dyes
for cellulosic will be used resulting in greater all round efficiency and a better fabric dyeing.

If we see awareness on hazardous effluents generated and amount of energy consumed

during the entire manufacturing process of textiles and apparels among end-consumers, it
is still limited. Many of them are not even aware that some of the dyes and chemicals used
are carcinogenic and life-threatening. Some retailers and brands in Western countries
have taken a green initiative to produce goods in a sustainable manner. On the contrary,
there is very little awareness among Indian manufacturers and end-consumers about the
harmful impact on environment. Some processing units are still discharging untreated

36
effluents which are polluting water bodies. Some dyes and chemicals can even cause
chronic diseases. It is very important to generate awareness among textile manufacturers
and end-users. The entire textile value chain should take the initiative to manufacture
goods economically through sustainable processes and technologies with minimum or no
impact on environment or consumer. Technology is a key to reach sustainability targets of
the textiles industry.

With volatile commodity and energy prices as well as requirements from brands, retailers,
consumers and governments, sustainability has become a significant competitive factor for
textile manufacturers. Sustainability is an issue with hard economic aspects. It has
become a significant competitive factor. Technological upgrading is one of the keys to
realise sustainable textile production, and so remain competitive. Some of the remarkable
innovations in technology have paved the way for sustainable production technologies, but
there is a huge scope further for all technology providers to upgrade technology which will
help in economical production of the goods in a sustainable manner.

3.2 Primary Research

CONSUMER SURVEY

1. ANALYSIS OF QUESTION

Initial questions are present to identify the customer base of the sustainable apparel
Mostly respondents were from age of 20 -30 years .Most of them had a frequent shopping
habit.

6%
14% Exclusive Brand Outlet
19% Multi Brand Outlet
Malls
33% Local Markets
28% Others

Figure 8. Shopping Habit of respondents

37
35%

30%

25%

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%
Once a week 2-3 times a month Once a month Less than once a As little as possible
month

Figure 9.Graph on frequency of shopping

38
 Consumer understanding of a sustainable garment
70

60

50

40

30 59.7

20 40.3

10 23.5

7.6 8.4 8.4

0
Garment made Garments that Garments which
from Garments made caused minium can be disposed I don’t have any
Garment made
alternative,eco - in factories with wastages of off after use idea about
from recycled
friendly fair labour resources without causing sustainable
material
materials or conditions during much harm to garments
processes production enviorment
Column1 40.3 59.7 23.5 7.6 8.4 8.4

Figure 10. Graph on consumer understanding of sustainable

garment
Most of the respondents think that garments are made from eco-friendly materials or

Respondents use a variety of terms to define sustainability, but a complete understanding

and comprehensive definition is absent. This indicates that respondents need education to
learn more about sustainability and understand all the components of sustainability.

Respondents seem to have an ecocentric belief system because environment was a term
they closely associated with sustainability. This indicates that components of human
interdependence and social responsibility should be communicated to respondents
through the curriculum. Respondents interpreted the literal as well as figurative meanings

39
of sustainability while the literature mainly focuses on the figurative meanings.

Consumer Perception
You could see the environmental and social
34%
bene!ts of the products right away

You got rewarded in some way for doing so (e.g.,

42%
points, coupons, special offers)

These options were easier for you to find and use 32%

You had a better understanding of what makes

72%
products environmentally and socially responsible

Company’s environmental and health claims were

64%
more believable

It didn’t cost more 61%

The product performed at least as well as (or

74%
better than) the products you usually buy

Figure 11. - Consumer Perception

80%
70%
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
Eco-Friendly Garments are I feel eco-friendly garments I don’t know where can I I do not believe the
overpriced are ugly and unfashionable find eco-friendly garments sustainability claims and
tags of a brand

Figure 12.Consumer Perception

40
Parameters while choosing a sustainable garment

1. 64% people think that ecofriendly garments are overpriced

2. 46 % people think that ecofriendly garments are ugly and unfashionable
3. 76% people cannot find ecofriendly garments in stores
4. 64% people don‘t believe that sustainable fashion brands are ethical and they
practice sustainability on a real level.

By this we analyse that a consumer who has not yet bought a sustainable
garment still has the perception that ecofriendly garments are overpriced.

Not only this, most of the consumers think that fancy processes cannot be applied on
sustainable garments and so they‘re unattractive and unfashionable.

There still aren‘t many indian brands producing and selling sustainable garments and
so 76% of the people cannot find sustainable garments in stores at all

Green tags and certifications are available but most brands do not promote and market
them properly and there isn‘t enough awareness among consumers about their
meaning and authenticity and so they do not trust brands that call themselves
sustainable.

v/s the consumer perception of customers who have already bought a

sustainable garment

1. 34% amongst them could see the environmental and social benefits of the
garments while buying
2. 42% got rewarded with gift vouchers and store points
3. 72% now have a better understanding of what a sustainable garment is
4. 61% think that the garments are fairly priced and value for money
5. 74% think that the products perform at least as well as the normal products and
sometimes better.

By this we can analyse that 34% of the consumers who have already bought a sustainable
garment can feel the benefits of their change in choice and have a positive perception of
sustainable garments from firsthand experience.

42% of the people got rewarded with points and gift vouchers as a display of gratefulness
and motivation to keep buying sustainable garments. This small step acts better than
providing discounts as it makes people feel pride in their choices.

72% people understand the garments and their effects on people‘s daily activities better –
like how easy it is to use and maintain along with not being lower in standards, quality and
performance than normal garments

41
 Parameters while choosing to purchase between a conventional and a sustainable garment

25%
23%

20%
18%
16%
15%
15%

10%
7%

5%

0%
Visual Appearance Hand Feel (degree of Price Brand Name Fit
(Colour, design, etc.) softness of the fabric)

Figure 13. Parameters to decide whether to buy sustainable

garment or conventional garment

How much are you willing to pay for

buying sustainable or green products?
60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
Same Price 10% Higher 20% Higher 30% Higher

Figure 14. Parameters to decide whether to buy sustainable

garment or conventional garment

42
  Same price – 26%
 10% higher – 50%
 20% higher – 17%
 30% higher – 7%

26% of the people are not aware of the importance and need of sustainable garments and
do not consider them to qualify for extra money

50% people feel that they would be willing to pay 10% more for sustainable garments than
the price of the regular garments. On the upside, at least they‘re aware enough to
understand that sustainable garments can qualify for being worth the extra money.

17% people think that they would be okay with paying 20% more for sustainable garments
that that for non-sustainable products. This is a part of the crowd that is genuinely aware
of the value of sustainable garments in context to the current scenario of the apparel
industry.

Only 7% of the people are ready to pay 30% more for sustainable garments than regular
garments because they understand sustainability and the effects that consumption
patterns of the general public can have on the current resource-intensive trends of
production.

Will you be keen to give your old clothes back to

store for recycling?
60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
Yes No Maybe

Figure 15. Graph showing respondents interest in recycling

43
Conclusion of the Survey

After the scrutiny of the surveys filled by the respondents, there is a need to educate
and create awareness amongst the consumers about the sustainability and the
importance of sustainable apparels in textile industry. This situation is the junction
where the industry needs to up its efforts in educating the consumers and create
transparency in its supply chain and production.

A key finding of the study indicated a need for producers to encourage consumers to
establish a connection with their purchase by providing the origins of the product and
education about disposal of post-consumer textile waste, in other terms completing the
lifecycle loop.

44
Interviews with internal department of the organisation to know
their views regarding sustainable product.

 Mr Neeraj Nagpal- Vice President- ―Putting more emphasis on cost

savings from the garments and less concerned about the true cost
savings‖ i.e (the amount of land and water used and also the amount of
carbon emissions to produce a new fabric.)
 Mr Vikas Bhatia- AVP Sourcing (Flat knits)- ―Appreciated the idea
of educating customers through hang tags in the garments, he
added another angle of sustainability is creating employment by
garment collective initiative‖.
 Mr Amit Dashora- AVP sourcing (Denim & woven bottom wear)-
―Enquired much about the source of raw material and suggested some
washes which can be done in knits as well.‖
 Mr Makesh- AVP sourcing (kidswear)- ―More inquisitive about the
product details especially organic cotton and BCI cotton because it is
can be largely used in kidswear, gave a different view point
regarding the post purchase water consumption of the garments. For
example in cold pigment dyeing after how many washes garment starts
getting faded‖
 Mr William- AVP sourcing (Trims)- ―Informed about the existing
practice of sustainability in trims and packaging, helped in developing
recycle hang tags and hangers

Interaction with the existing vendors to know about their interest in

manufacturing sustainable apparel.

 Shine Textiles, Tirupur- Mr. Kumar - Manufacturing garments for H&M

Conscious which is a sustainable collection by H&M. They have a vertically
integrated unit so they are planning to produce recycle-polyester.

45
 Eastman Exports, Tirupur- Mr. Bashyam - Manufacturing bio-cotton in
their regular orders but were not interested in adopting sustainability.
 The apparel source- Tirupur- Mr. Mani – Mainly into manufacturing
sustainable apparel like cotton + recycle polyester melanges and many
fancy fabrics.
 Paras Ram Textiles- Ludhiana- Mr. Gagan Batra- By explaining the
concept of sustainable fashion, they were ready to explore out options in this
area.
 Carfu knits- Ludhiana- Mr. Vinod – Seemed to be unaware about the
subject but were ready to work and find new areas.

46
 CHAPTER 4
IMPLEMENTATION

47
4.1 Development of Sustainable Garments Development
Process
Initial task was to look out for sustainable yarn or fiber manufacturers in India.
After research and making out few calls, got two suppliers of recycle polyester and
re-cycle cotton.

1. GPI Mills, Nalagarh

2. Usha Yarns, Mohali

Got their swatch books and prices of the yarns. Went to the Ludhiana- knitwear hub
and met their sales executive and got more information about their business. Sourced
fabrics from the mills and get the fabric processing done from the existing vendors of
Pantaloons. Then its the time to make the final garment.

1. Recycled Denim

Composition - 30% Recycled Polyester, 68% Cotton and spandex

Fabric Vendor – Rajlaksmi Denims Ltd. Mumbai, Maharashtra

Garment Vendor - Rajlaksmi Denims Ltd. Mumbai, Maharashtra

Process of making Denim Fabric

The yarns are made

Warp is dyed and Warp and weft are
from polyester
sized to strengthen woven together.
filament and cotton
the yarns
fiber .

Composition of
Finishing processes weft is 67% cotton
to be held ,30% polyester and
elastane

Figure 16. Process of making Denim fabric

48
 The yarns are
Warp is dyed and
made from plastic Warp and weft are
sized to strengthen
Bottles* and woven together.
the yarns
cotton fiber .

Composition of
Finishing processes weft is 67% cotton
to be held ,30% polyester and
elastane

Figure 17. Process of making Recycled Denim fabric

49
Advantages of Recycled Denim

WATER CONSUMPTION

180 gallons of water is used for denim whereas recycled denim requires
158(approximately) gallons of water. So, on an average order of 2000 recycled denim
the water consumption reduced 8.4% i.e. 43,200 gallons of water.

Limitations of Recycled Denim

1. Not advisable for heavy bleach wash it may impact the stretch properties of
fabric.
2. Not advisable for heavy stone enzyme it may leads to pilling at back side fabric

2. Recycled Cotton Polyester T-shirt

Composition - 30% Recycled cotton 35% recycled polyester 35% Cotton

Fabric and Garment Vendor – DhanRaj Mills

Unravelling of the materials

(knitted scraps, cut selvedge's,
flying fibres

Sorting the materials according

to the respective colours

The collected clothing/fabric are

shredded

Shorter fibres and impurities are

removed by making the bales

The sliver is pulled out to a

thinner strand and given a slight
twist

Figure18. Process of Recycled cotton

50
Advantages of Recycled Cotton

▪ The dumps of the PCW and the industrial wastes are used that reduces the
landfill by contributing to the environment.

▪ Water Consumption is reduced. Recycling one tonne of cotton can save 765
cubic metres (202,000 US gal) of water.

Disadvantages of Recycled cotton

 Fibers will be shorter due to reprocessing, making weaker threads

 Chemicals may have to be used to remove dye and other treatments

51
 Chapter 5
Limitations and Further
Scope

52
5.1 Further Scope

Sustainable Retail Practices

Garment Collecting Initiative

You can hand in any clothes you no longer want. That way, we can reduce waste and
give old apparels a new life. Eventually, we will close the loop on textiles so nothing
ever goes waste.

Of the thousands of tonnes of textiles that people throw away every year, as much
as 95% could be re-worn or recycled.

Don’t let fashion go to waste

No true fashion lover likes seeing clothes go to waste. We want to make it as easy as
possible for you to give your garments a new life. Looking ahead, there are three
ways to repurpose the unwanted garment

 Re-wear- clothing that can be worn again will be sold as second hand
clothes.
 Re-use- old clothes and textiles will be turned into other products, such as
cleaning cloths, rugs, mats, etc
 Re-cycle- everything else is turned into textile fibres, or other use such as
insulation.

Commitment to Reducing, Re-using and recycling wherever we can. In our vision of a

better fashion future, nothing gets wasted. To achieve this vision, we will need to
inspire everyone who‘s connected to our business- from our suppliers to our
customers- to be a part of the journey.

Figure 19. Loop of sustainability

53
About the Recycle Industry in India

Dharam Pal Woolen Industries, the company the Jindals own, makes 10,000kg of yarn
a day from 20 tonnes of used clothes that lie in an open tin shed, ready to go into the
shredder for extracting flossy fibre. This raw material is then used to produce yarn for
making blankets, school blazer fabric and red-and-black checkered drapes popular
among the Masai population of Tanzania and Kenya.

For decades, second-hand garments from the West have created a thriving business
in India, as cheap clothing for millions of the country‘s poor. The trendier lots routinely
resurface in urban flea markets such as Sarojini Nagar in New Delhi and Linking Road
in Mumbai, where fashionable college goers and their mothers pluck bargains at dirt-
cheap rates. But now a huge amount of discards from well-heeled consumers in the
US, Canada and South Korea are ending up in Panipat, Asia‘s biggest textile recycling
hub, to get a second life.

Hand-downs that arrive in India are pulped to make everything from low- and mid-
range doormats and prayer rugs to blankets and bed linen. Leftover garments are cut
into square pieces to be sold as industrial wipers for the paints, chemicals and
construction industries, for both local and international buyers in Japan and Australia.
Waste is used to stuff pillows and mattresses.

And out of the jumble may emerge a vintage piece of period value that special clothes
stores in the West die for. Vintage clothes are sent back to the US and they fetch a
good price. Nothing is wasted

54
 Figure 20.Rag Route

Benefits of Recycling Industry and its sustainable advantages

It generates huge employment in the textile industry because it is labour-

intensive, low-margin business; workers are needed to sort and grade clothes.

Recycled clothing makes everyone richer because it‘s affordable to lower- income
people around the world. Recycled cloth are being used to make reusable sanitary
pads for rural women.

In many parts, women still use newspapers, mud and ash during menstruation

5.2 Limitations

1. Consumer survey was conducted amongst a small level, just to understand whether
the market is present or not. Such small sample group wouldn‘t enable us to come onto
any conclusions about the market.

2. Pantaloons is a value fashion chain which means it makes garments which have low
product cost i.e low material cost so, most of the sustainable process and material
options were eliminated because of the cost.

3. Limited time for the study to be more extensive

55
Chapter 6
Appendix
6.1 Energy Consumption Details

Embodied Energy used in production of various

fibers:

Energy use in MJ
per

cotton, organic, India 12

KG of fiber:
cotton, conventional 55

Rpet 66

Polyester 125
6.2 COST SHEET

Details Recycled Polo T-Shirt Basic Polo T-Shirt

Style RT02 Regular Polo Tee
Fabric 30% Recycled cotton 65% Cotton 35%
35% Recycled polyester polyester
35% Cotton

Fashion Pyramid Core Core

Fit Regular Regular

Cost/kg 290 423
Fabric Consumption 0.27 0.27
Consumption 0.06 0.06

Total Fabric Cost 104.4 140.31

CM 40 40
Packaging 4 4

Trim Cost 9 9

Packaging Trims 3.49 2.89

Poly-Packing Trims 6.2 6.2

TOTAL 167.09 202.4

VENDOR MARGIN 10.02 12.14

TOTAL 177.11 214.54

REJECTION(1%) 1.77 2.14

TOTAL 178.88 185

MRP 599 599

Gross Margin 70% 64%

6.3 COST SHEET
6.3 COST SHEET
Details Recycled Tee Basic Tee

Style RT03 Regular Polo Tee

Fabric 30% Recycled cotton 35% 65% cotton 35% polyester

Recycled polyester 35% Cotton

Fashion Core Core

Pyramid
Fit Regular Regular
Cost/kg 380 408
Fabric 0.16 0.16
Consumption
Cost/kg 435 435
Consumption 0.08 0.08

Total Fabric 76 81.6

Cost
CM 22 22
Packaging 4.9 4.9

Recycled Label 0.6 0

Poly-Packing 6.2 6.2

Trims
TOTAL 120.59 125.59
VENDOR 7.23 7.53
MARGIN
TOTAL 127.82 133.12
REJECTION(1%) 1.27 1.3312

TOTAL 175 185

MRP 499 499
Gross Margin 74% 73%
6.4 COST SHEET
DETAILS Recycled Denim Conventional Denim
Style RT01 6574
30% Recycled
Fabric Polyester, 68% 30% Polyester, 68% Cotton and spandex
Cotton and spandex

Fashion Pyramid Core plus Core plus

Fit Regular Regular

Cost/m 250 128

Fabric Consumption 1.3 1.3

Fabric Cost 325 166.4

Pocketing 8 8
CM 70 70
Washing 60 60

Embroidery 8 8

Print 3 3

Packaging Trims 4.09 3.49

Sewing Trims 38.05 38.05

Poly-Packing Trims 6.2 6.2

TOTAL 522.34 324.74

VENDOR
62.68 38.96
MARGIN(12%)
TOTAL 585.02 363.7
REJECTION(3%) 17.55 10.91

TOTAL 602.57 374.62

MRP 1499 999

Gross Margin 60% 63%

6.5 DETAILS OF MATERIALS
S,N
Name Of Material
O. Why is it green
Recyled cotton lessens the
waste dumps of cotton and
1 Recycled Cotton
reduces the energy
consumption
Recycled nylon is made fron the 1.Softer Hand And Good
pre-consumer, the post
consumer wastes and the
discarded fishing nets from the
2 Recycled Nylon ocean and reduces the use of
the petroleum
Recyled polyester lessens the
need of oil, reduces the waste
3 Recycled Polyester
and produces less pollution
recycled cotton denim is made
by weaving the industrial
wastes of cotton when the weft
4 Recycled Cotton Denim
threds passe through two or
more warps threads so reduces
the dumps of cotton wastes
Features
1. Breathable
2. Soft Hand And Feel
3.Non -Allergic
4.Heat Resistance
Drape
2. Good Abrasion
Resistance
3. Good Colorfastness
4. Resistance To
Insects,Fungi And
Bacteria
5. Uv Protection
1 Dimensional Stability
2.Air Permeablity
3.Abrasion Resistance
4.Pilling Resistance
1 Dimensional Stability
2.Air Permeablity
3.Abrasion Resistance
4.Pilling Resistance
 Organic cotton is grown
entirely without chemcicals,it
1. Breathable
produces the harmful effects of
2. Soft Hand And Feel
pesticides and fertilisers used in
5 Organic Cotton 3.Non -Allergic
traditional methods.Farming
4.Moisture Absorbent
renews the soil through crop
4.Heat Resistance
roatation and using manure
fertilisers

BT cotton contains a foreign

Bt Cotton gene obtained from bacteria
that protects the plant from the 1. Breathable
bollworm a major pest of 2. Soft Hand And Feel
6
cotton. The worm feeding on 3.Non -Allergic
the leaves becomes lethargic 4.Heat Resistance
and sleepy, thereby causing the
less damage to the plant.

Bamboo is one of the worlds 1.Naturally Soft

most renewable plantthat 2. Allergy Reduced
grows upto a foot day without 3.Thermal Regulating
7 Organic Bamboo the use of chemical pesticides 4.Absorbs Moisture
5.Breathable
6.Anti-Bacterial
7.Uv Protection

Milk fiber is made from caesin 1. Anti Bacterial

8 Organic Milk Fabrics that is a natural resource 2.Air Permeable
3. Breathable

1.Good Colorfastness
2.Wrinkle Free
3. Resilient
9 Organic Corn Fabrics
4. Odor Resistant
5.Hypo Allergic
6.Uv Resistant
 Bamboo is one of the worlds 1.Hypo Allergic
most renewable plant that 2. Anti Bacterial
grows upto a foot day without 3. Anti Fungal
10 Bamboo And Cotton
the use of chemical pesticides 4. Breathable
5. Odour Resistant
6.Absorbent

It is a green fabric as it is made 1.Good Colorfastness

from the pre consumer and 2.Durable
Recycled Cotton With post consumer wastes. 3.Quick drying
11
Recycled Polyester 4. Wicking
5.Breathable
6.Uv Resistant

It is a green fabric as it is made 1.Lusturous

from the pre consumer and 2.Comfort
12 Recycled Cotton Viscose post consumer wastes. 3.Soft
4.Good drape
5.Easy Care

It is a green fabric as it is made 1.Soft Touch And Feel

from the pre consumer and 2.Lusturous
13 Recycled Silk post consumer wastes. 3.Good drape
4.Elasticity
5.Resillence

It is a green fabric as it is made 1.Less energy

from the pre consumer and cosnumption
14 Recycled Woolen Fabric post consumer wastes. 2.Eliminating dyeing
process and chemicals
3.Reduces waste

Bamboo is one of the worlds

1.Good hand and feel
most renewable plant that
Bamboo With Recycled 2.Anti-microbial
15 grows upto a foot day without
Polyester 3.Easy dyeblity
the use of chemical pesticides
4.Moisture absorption
and from PCW
 it is made from soyabean fibers 1.Lusturous
that is a natural ingredient 2.Comfort
3.Absorbent
16 Organic Soyabean Fabrics
4.Strength
5.Shrinkage
6.Easy Care

its made of orange and lemon 1.Contains Viatmins

peels A,C,E
17 Citrus Fibre From Orange
2.Comfortable
3.Odorless

its made of coffee grinds 1.Odor Control

2.Uv Protection
18 S.Cafe
3.Fast Drying
4.Breathable

its made of orange, lemon

1.Soft Touch And Feel
19 Citrus And Silk Fabric peels and is blended with the
2.Lusturous
silk fiber

It is green as it is a cellulosic 1.Excellent Drape Lustre

fiber from the tree bark 2.Softness
20 Modal
3.Absorbency
4.Colour Brilliance

It is green as it is a cellulosic 1.Absorbent - Which

fiber from the tree bark Enables Cooling
2.Anti -Bacterial
21 Tencel 3. Soft Hand And Feel
4. Moisture Wicking
5. Wrinkle Free
6.Good Drape

It is green as it is a cellulosic 1.Excellent Drape Lustre

fiber from the tree bark 2.Softness
22 Modal With Cotton
3.Absorbency
4.Colour Brilliance
 It is green as it is a cellulosic 1.Excellent Drape Lustre
fiber from the tree bark 2.Softness
23 Modal With Spandex 3.Absorbency
4.Elasticity
4.Colour Brilliance
6.6 Questionnaire
1. Age:
 <20
 20-25
 25-30
 30-35
 35-40
 >40
2. City:
3. Profession:
 Student
 Self Employed
 Business
 Military and Armed Forces
 Government and Public Administration
 Private Service
 Retired
 Unemployed
 Other:
4. How would you describe your shopping behavior for apparel and footwear’s?
• Once a week

• 2-3 times a month

• Once a month

• Less than once a month

• As little as possible
 5. What does a sustainable garment mean to you?
Select as many as you want

 Garment made from recycled materials

 Garment made from alternative, eco-friendly materials or processes
 Garment made in factories with fair labor conditions
 Garments that caused minimum wastages of resources during
production
 Garment which can be disposed off after use without
causing much harm to the environment
 I don’t have an idea about of sustainable garment

6. How many apparel and footwear brands, in your opinion, are committed to
sustainable practices? *
1. Over 50
2. Up to 25
3. 10 or more
4. 5 or more
5. Up to 5
6. None
 Scale
Rate the priority of the
following parameters while
choosing to purchase Highest Moderately Not as Low Lowest
between a conventional and
Priority Important important priority priority
a sustainable garment?

1.Visual Appearance

2. Hand/Feel

3. Price

4. fit

5.The fact that it is a

sustainable garment

Please indicate your opinion about each of the following statements -

8. Have you purchased a garment/footwear that is eco-friendly and/or responsibly made? .

 Yes
 No
 I'm Not Sure
If answered yes to the previous question continue else skip to question

9. The product's price was:

 Lower than the conventional product

 Almost the same price
 Costlier
 10. Mark the appropriate

Scale

Almost Not
How did the product perform as compared to conventional Very
as well as
product? poor
Better well

Durability

Comfort

Color Retention

Shrinkage /Stretching Problems

Overall Experience

11. Would you go back to buy more such sustainable products? *

 Yes
 No
 Maybe

12. How much more are you willing to pay for a sustainable product over a conventional
product of the same category? *

 Not willing to pay any extra cost

 Less than 10%
  Up to 25%
 Up to 50%
 More than 50%
 Beyond 75%
 The cost won’t matter when the planet is at risk

13. What would influence your decision to purchase a sustainable garment? *

1. I don’t intend to purchase a sustainable garment at all.

2. I'd choose to purchase because I know I have to take an action, for the benefit of
the people and the planet.
3. Influence of others (friends, family, media, celebrities etc)
4. Other:

14.

Scale
Rate the priority of the following parameters
while choosing to purchase a sustainable Strongly
Strongly
garment? agree Agree Neutral Disagree Disagree

1.Eco-Friendly Garments are overpriced

2. I feel eco-friendly garments are ugly and

unfashionable

3. I don’t know where can I find eco-friendly

garments

4. I do not believe the sustainability claims and

tags of a brand
15. Would you be willing to donate your old and unused garments for recycling if brands
provide a kiosk or a bin at their stores? *

1. Yes
2. No
16.Would some reward points or coupons in exchange for these clothes at the brand outlet
influence your decision positively?

1. Yes
2. No

FEEDBACK

17. Were you motivated to go on and learn/explore more about sustainability in the
apparel industry after having gone through this survey? *

1. Yes
2. No
18. Were you inspired enough to go on and purchase a greener/sustainable product? *

1. Yes
2. No
19. In your opinion, should every brand start incorporating at least 1 range of sustainable
garment line at their stores as a compulsory part of their Corporate Social Responsibility? *

1. Yes
2. No
 Chapter 5
Bibliography
1. http://pantaloons.com/ (7th March,2016)

2. http://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt (17th March)

3. http://www.adityabirla.com/sustainability (22nd March,2016)

4. https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-
considered- a-sustainable-textile/ (5th April,2016)

5. http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/commitments/reduce-waste.html
(13th April)

6. http://www.livemint.com/Companies/x9tnCSRrdT3RSn3BXfRtON/Old-clothes-spin-
a-new-yarn-in-India.html (15th April)

7. https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/global-recycle-standard/ (15th April)

8. http://circularfashion.com/circular-approach-for-fashion-industry/ (16th April)

9. http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2015-12-20/news/69186425_1_harish-
rawat-cannabis-cultivation-hemp (20th April)

10. https://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/ethical-fashion (20th April)

11. http://www.vogue.com/13428132/fast-fashion-environmental-impact-sustainability-
parsons-zady/ (20th April)
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