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Malta Gozo 7 Preview
Malta Gozo 7 Preview
Malta Gozo 7 Preview
Malta
& Gozo
Gozo &
Comino
p127
Northern Malta
p85 Sliema, St Julian's
& Paceville
p76
Central
Malta Valletta
p103 p50
Southern Malta
p117
Brett Atkinson
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to VALLETTA . . . . . . . . . 50 SLIEMA, ST JULIAN’S
Malta & Gozo. . . . . . . . . . . . 4 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 & PACEVILLE. . . . . . . . 76
Malta & Gozo’s Top 10. . . . 8 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sliema & Around . . . . . . . . . 78
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 14 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 St Julian’s & Paceville. . . . . 81
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 NORTHERN MALTA. . . . 85
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 19 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 63 Golden Bay &
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 67 Għajn Tuffieħa. . . . . . . . . . . 88
Accommodation. . . . . . . . 24 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Mġarr & Around . . . . . . . . . 89
Getting Around Around Valletta. . . . . . . . . 69 Mellieħa & Around. . . . . . . 89
Malta & Gozo. . . . . . . . . . . 26
Hal Saflieni Hypogeum & Marfa Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . 92
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Tarxien Temples . . . . . . . . . 69 Xemxija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Eat & Drink The Three Cities. . . . . . . . . . 70
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Buġibba, Qawra &
Vittoriosa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 St Paul’s Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Travel with Children. . . . . 43
Senglea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Baħar Iċ-Ċagħaq . . . . . . . . 102
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 47
MACIEJ NICGORSKI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
MARTA / 500PX ©
TRITON FOUNTAIN,
VALLETTA P60
DANILOVI / GETTY IMAGES ©
CENTRAL MALTA. . . . 103 GOZO & COMINO. . . 127 Malta & Gozo
Mdina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Gozo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Rabat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Victoria (Rabat) . . . . . . . . . 130
Dingli Cliffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 The Maltese Way
Mġarr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 of Life. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Mosta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Mġarr ix-Xini . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 5000 Years of
Naxxar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Xewkija. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 167
Birkirkara & the Ta’Ċenċ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Three Villages. . . . . . . . . . . 115
Xlendi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Fomm ir-Riħ. . . . . . . . . . . . 116 SURVIVAL
Għarb & San Lawrenz. . . . 139
SOUTHERN MALTA. . . 117 GUIDE
Dwejra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Marsaxlokk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Marsalforn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Birżebbuġa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Xagħra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 172
Marsaskala . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Nadur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Żurrieq. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Comino. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra . . . . 124
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Għar Lapsi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 191
SPECIAL
FEATURES
Diving & Snorkelling. . . . 28
Eat & Drink
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Valletta Image
Gallery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
5000 Years of
CARMELITE BASILICA,
Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 167
VALLETTA P61
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
22
Itineraries
GOZO Blue
Lagoon Ù
# COMINO
no
mi
É
Co l
f
# u th anne M E D I T E R R A N E A N
o
S Ch
S E A
# Marfa Peninsula
•
É
#Park tal-Majjistral
•
Golden Bay •
#
#Valletta
É
MALTA _
# Vittoriosa
•
# Mdina
• •
#
# Rabat
• Senglea
É
É
Ħaġar Qim # Marsaxlokk
•
É
É
& Mnajdra # St Peter's
•
M E D I T E R R A N E A N •
# Pool
•
# É
S E A Blue
Grotto
1 K Essential Malta
WEE
Malta’s diminutive dimensions (27km by 14.5km) mean having your own car is an asset;
otherwise, base yourself in Valletta, Naxxar, Sliema or St Julian’s for the easiest bus
connections.
Begin in Valletta – explore the narrow streets and fortifications, admire views across
the Grand Harbour, and visit MUŻA, St John’s Co-Cathedral and the Grand Master’s
Palace. On the second day, experience Fort St Elmo, visiting the National War Museum,
before a ferry ride across the harbour to Vittoriosa and Senglea. On day three visit the
Tarxien Temples and Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, en route south for a seafood lunch at
Marsaxlokk. Spend the afternoon at St Peter’s Pool, a rocky bay with flat rocks for
sunbathing.
On day four take a boat trip to the Blue Grotto, explore the clifftop temples of Ħaġar
Qim & Mnajdra, and then spend the afternoon in Mdina and Rabat. Allocate day five
to relaxing on a beach, such as Golden Bay, recharging for physical activity on day six –
a walk around Park tal-Majjistral or maybe scuba diving around the Marfa
Peninsula. End on a high with a day trip to Comino’s Blue Lagoon.
23
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
Salt Pans
É # Marsalforn
•
Basilica of •
# Ramla
Ta'Pinu Bay San Blas
•
#
Ù
# Bay
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
GOZO Ù
#
É
É
É É
Victoria Xagħra •
#
# Dwejra
• É # Ġgantija
•
(Rabat) É
É
•
# Temples
É É ino
om
Ta'Ċenċ É
th C nel
•
#
É
f
# NorChan
Ù
# É
É
Mġarr •
#
ix-Xini Comino
ino
MEDITERRANEAN om
th C nel
SEA Sou Chan
MALTA
5 S Gozo
DAY
The island of Gozo (14km by 7km) is much smaller than Malta but you still need time to
do it justice. Because of its modest size, you can base yourself almost anywhere, particu-
larly if you have your own set of wheels (recommended).
Another great way to get around is to hire a bicycle (available on Gozo) or an electric
bike (to help with the hills) – the latter must be collected on Malta and brought to Gozo
on the ferry. To get the most out of your stay, rent a rambling, idyllic Gozitan farmhouse.
Start your visit by spending a morning exploring Victoria (Rabat), wandering
around recently restored Il-Kastell, with its astounding views, and the narrow lanes of
Il-Borgo. Take a trip over to the huddled seaside resort town of Marsalforn for a lazy
lunch with sea views and then visit the dramatically set salt pans just outside the town.
On day two, head to the grand pilgrimage centre of Basilica of Ta’Pinu with its poign-
ant votive offerings, to pay your respects, then while away the rest of the day walking,
swimming and snorkelling amid the fantastical moonscape scenery of Dwejra.
Set aside day three for walking around the soul-stirring clifftop scenery of Ta’Ċenċ,
and for seeking out a lesser-known spot for swimming and snorkelling (nearby Mġarr
ix-Xini is lovely, and a great place for a leisurely lunch).
Begin day four with a visit to the extraordinary prehistoric Ġgantija Temples and
other attractions of Xagħra, then spend the afternoon reclining on Ramla Bay or more
remote San Blas Bay, both of which are beautiful beaches where red sands meet blue
water.
It’s even easier to visit the tiny island of Comino from Gozo than it is from Malta, so
arrange your boat trip and spend an afternoon paddling around the Blue Lagoon.
There’s five days covered, but why not allocate a week and spend a few days relaxing
poolside or on the beach?
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1 86
Index
A Mdina Experience 107 Sliema 78 caves 44
accessible travel 172 Valletta Living History 60 Xlendi 138 Calypso’s Cave 144
accommodation 24-5, 45 automobile associations 180 Żurrieq 123 Għar Dalam 121-2
activities 28-37, 45 see also Azure Window 140 Bonaparte, Napoleon 158-9 Għar Ħasan Cave 122
individual activities books 150 Ninu’s Cave 144
air travel 177 archaeology 169 Xerri’s Grotto 143-4
B
aquariums 96-7, 46 babysitting 44 architecture 169 cell phones 14, 176
amusement parks 44 Baħar Iċ-Ċagħaq 102 cooking 41 Central Malta 103-16
Buġibba Water Park 97 bargaining 175 culture 163, 165 driving tours 113, 113
Popeye Village 90 basilicas, see churches & history 152, 154, 157, 158 food 103
Splash & Fun Park 102 cathedrals Briffa, Chris 169 highlights 104-5, 104-5
Arabs 153-4 bathrooms 176 Buġibba 96-101, 98 travel seasons 103
archaeological sites 17, 167 beaches 17, 34, 45 Buġibba Water Park 97 children, travel with 43-6, 46
cart ruts 114 Adeera Beach Complex 91 bus travel 27, 179-80 churches & cathedrals 168
Domus Romana 110 Baia Beach Club 92 business hours 15, 175 Basilica of St George 134
Ġgantija Temples 143 Daħlet Qorrot 146 Basilica of Ta’Pinu 139
Għar Dalam Cave & Għajn Tuffieħa Bay 88 Carmelite Basilica 61, 3
Museum 121-2
C
Ġnejna Bay 89 Calypso’s Cave 144 Chapel of San Dimitri 140
Ħaġar Qim 13, 124-5 Golden Bay 88 Chapel of St Mary
car travel 180-2, 267
Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Ħondoq ir-Rummien 146 Magdalene 112
Caravaggio 170
9, 69, 9 Chapel of the
Mellieħa Bay 90 Carmelite Basilica 61, 3
Mnajdra 13, 124-5 Annunciation 123
Ramla Bay 144 Carnival 19
Skorba Temples 89 Cathedral of the
San Blas Bay 146 cart ruts 114
St Agatha’s Crypt & Assumption 132
Selmun (Imgiebah) Casa Bernard 110
Catacombs 110 Church of Our Lady of
Bay 90
St Paul’s Catacombs 110 Casa Rocca Piccola 58 Lourdes 135
Sliema 78
Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 89 Cassar, Gerolamo 169 Church of Our Lady of
Wied il-Għasri 144
Tarxien Temples 69-70 castles & fortresses 44 Victory 90
Xwieni Bay 141
architecture 17, 167-70 Dwejra (Qawra) Tower 141 Church of Our Lady’s
beer 41 Return from Egypt 148
Armoury 73 Fort Campbell 90-1
Bethlehem Village 135-6 Church of Saints Peter &
art galleries, see museums Fort Rinella 71
bicycle travel 178-9 Paul 146
& galleries Fort St Angelo 71, 13
bird hunting 166 Church of St Helen 116
artists Fort St Elmo & National
Birdlife Malta 35, 148 War Museum 53, 56 Church of St Mary 116
Caravaggio 170
birdwatching 37 Church of St Paul’s
Preti, Mattia 159 Il-Kastell 10, 131, 133, 10
BirguFest 20 Bonfire 97
arts 165-6 Red (St Agatha’s) Tower
Birkirkara 115-16 92 Church of St Paul’s
ATMs 175 Shipwreck 58
Birżebbuġa 121-2 St John’s Demi-Bastion
audiovisual shows Church of St Saviour 116
Blue Grotto 123 132
Gozo 360° 132 Church of the Visitation
Blue Hole 141 St Mary’s Tower 148
Malta 5D 60 140
Blue Lagoon 12, 148, 2, 12 Wignacourt Tower 97-9
Malta Experience 60 Egg Church 89
boats 122 catacombs
Grotto of the Madonna 90
boat travel 27, 97, 178, 179 St Agatha’s Crypt &
Catacombs 110 Mosta Dome 114, 94
boat trips
St Paul’s Catacombs 110 Our Lady of the Grotto 111
Buġibba 99
Map Pages 000 cathedrals, see churches & Parish Church of Our
Golden Bay 88
Photo Pages 000 cathedrals Lady 115
Mġarr 136
188
churches & cathedrals Domus Romana 110 gardens, see parks & Grand Master’s Palace
continued drinks 38-42 gardens 52-3
Parish Church of St driving 26-7, 175, 180-2 Gardjola Gardens 75, 65 Manoel Island 78
Catherine 123 driving tours garnija 148 Mellieħa Air-Raid
Rotunda 137 gay travellers 174 Shelters 90
Central Malta 113, 113
St Agatha’s Chapel 110 Ġgantija Temples 143 Mġarr Shelter 89
Gozo 147, 147
St John’s Co-Cathedral Għadira Nature Reserve 90 Old Prison 132
Marfa Peninsula 93, 93
I N D E X C - L
I N D E X M - S
food 76 Rabat (Gozo), see Victoria
Malta International Air Gran Castello Historic
highlights 77, 77 (Rabat)
Show 20 House 132
travel seasons 76 Rabat (Malta) 11, 110-12,
Malta National Aquarium Heart of Gozo 134
108-9
96-7, 46 Inquisitor’s Palace 71 packing 15, 45
radio 174
Manoel Island 78 Karmni Grima Palazzo Falson 106
Ramla Bay 144
mansions 169 Museum 140 Palazzo Parisio 115
Ras il-Qammieħ 92
Marfa Peninsula 92, 93, 93 Lascaris War Rooms 57 parking 181
Red (St Agatha’s) Tower 92
Maria Rosa Winery 116 Malta at War Museum 71 parks & gardens, see
also national parks & religion 151, 164
markets Malta Aviation reserves road rules 181-2
Bugeja Fish Market 136 Museum 110-11
Gardjola Gardens 75, 65 rock climbing 37, 139
Malta Artisan Markets Malta Classic Car
Lower Barrakka Rolex Middle Sea Race 36
166 Collection 97
Gardens 60 Romans 153
Sunday Fish Market 120 Malta Postal Museum 57 Mdina Ditch Garden 106 Rotunda 137
Waterfront Market 120 Maritime Museum 71 San Anton Palace & Royal Malta Yacht Club 36
Marsalforn 141-3, 142 MUŻA 16, 57 Gardens 115 Royal Opera House 60
Marsaskala 122-3 Upper Barrakka Gardens
National Museum of
Marsaxlokk 120-1, 18 Archaeology 53 56-7, 64
marathons 34 National Museum of Villa Rundle Gardens 134 S
Mdina 11, 106-9, 108-9, 11 Natural History 106-7 Park tal-Majjistral 88 Sacra Infermeria 60
Mdina Cathedral safe travel 175-6
Pomskizillious Museum parliament building 58, 64
Contemporary Art of Toys 144 sailing 36
Pasha, Mustafa 156-7
Bienniele 20, 107 Salina Nature Reserve 99
Sacra Infermeria 60 passports 177
Mdina Ditch Garden 106 salt pans 99, 120, 138, 140
The Cliffs 112 Phoenicians 153
measures 174 Saluting Battery 57
Toy Museum 60 photography 175
medical services 173 San Anton Palace &
Wignacourt Museum 110 Pjazza Indipendenza
Medieval Mdina 19 Gardens 115
music 165 134, 94
Mediterranea 20 San Blas Bay 146
planning 16
megalithic sites 125, 167, MUŻA 16, 57 San Lawrenz 139-40
activities 28-37
see also archaeological scuba diving, see diving &
sites budgeting 15
snorkelling
N calendar of events 19-21
Mellieħa 89-92, 91 sea travel 27, 97, 178, 179
Nadur 145-8 children, travel with 43-6
Merisi, Michelangelo 170 Selmun (Imgiebah) Bay 90
Napoleon 158-9 highlights 8-13, 6-7
Mġarr (Gozo) 135-6, 95 Senglea 70-5, 72-3
National Museum of internet resources 15
Mġarr (Malta) 89 sharklab 96
Archaeology 53 itineraries 22-3
Mġarr ix-Xini 136-7 Skorba Temples 89
National Museum of Malta & Gozo regions
Misraħ ir-Rebħa 73 Natural History 107 Sliema 78-81, 79
47-8
Mnajdra 13, 124-5, 13 national parks & reserves Sliema
packing 15
mobile phones 14, 176 drinking 76
Għadira Nature travel seasons 14, 45
money 14, 15, 175 Reserve 90 food 76
travel to/from Malta &
monuments Is-Simar Nature Gozo 15, 177-8 highlights 77, 77
Christ Statue 141 Reserve 96 travel within Malta & travel seasons 76
City Gate (Valletta) 57 Park tal-Majjistral 88 Gozo 26-7, 178-82 smoking 174
Għajn Rasul 99 Salina Nature politics 150-1 snorkelling, see diving &
Triton Fountain 60, 2 Reserve 99 Pomskizillious Museum of snorkelling
Victory Monument 73 Naxxar 115 Toys 144 soccer 166
Mosta 114-15, 94 newspapers 174 Popeye Village 90, 94 Southern Malta 117-26
motor racing 166 population 151, 163 food 117
Ninu’s Cave 144
motorcycle travel 180-2l Portomaso 81 highlights 118-19, 118-19
Northern Malta 85-102
Munxar 139 postal services 175 travel seasons 117
food 85
museums & galleries 44-5 Preti, Mattia 159 Splash & Fun Park 102
highlights 86-7, 86-7 sport 166, see also
Archaeology Museum
132 travel seasons 85 individual sports
190
St Agatha 112 temples U St John’s Co-
St Agatha’s Crypt & Ġgantija Temples 143 Upper Barrakka Gardens Cathedral 10, 52, 59,
Catacombs 110 Ħaġar Qim 13, 124-5, 124 56-7, 64 59, 10
St George’s Bay 81 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Valletta 61, 61
St John’s Co-Cathedral 10, 9, 69, 9 Vittoriosa 74, 74
52, 59, 59, 11 V watchtowers 136-7, 156
Mnajdra 13, 124-5
St John’s Demi-Bastion 132 Valletta 8, 50-75, 54-5, 5,
Skorba Temples 89 water polo 166
8, 64-5
I N D E X S -Z
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Brett Atkinson
Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely
Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel,
unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well-known destinations.
Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, and he
is featured regularly on Lonely Planet’s website and in newspapers, magazines
and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming a Lonely Planet
writer in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New
Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.
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