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Frommers Bangkok 3rd Edition PDF
Frommers Bangkok 3rd Edition PDF
Bangkok
day day by
with
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oldout
map
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with M
foldout
map
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M M
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Bangkok
day day BY
2nd Edition
by Mick Shippen
FrommerMedia LLC
www.ebook3000.com
Contents
17 Favorite Moments
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7
The Best in 1 Day 8
The Best in 2 Days 18
The Best in 3 Days 24
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7 The Best Nightlife 109
Nightlife Best Bets 110
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z 115
Index 178
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Published by:
FrommerMedia LLC
Copyright © 2016 Frommer Media LLC, New York, NY. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except
as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States
Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.
Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to
http://www.frommers.com/support.
Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer.
ISBN: 978-1-62887-238-5 (print); 978-1-62887-239-2 (ebk)
Editorial Director: Pauline Frommer
Editor: Pauline Frommer
Production Editor: Lindsay Conner
Photo Editor: Meghan Lamb
Cartographer: Liz Puhl
Front cover photos, left to right: Floating Market © anekoho; Wat Arun
Temple illuminated at twilight © Sarawut Chamsaeng; Novices at
Ayutthaya Historical Park © SantiPhotoSS
Back cover photo: Grand Palace Bangkok © image focus
For information on our other products and services, please go to
Frommers.com/contactus.
Frommer’s also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.
Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic
formats.
Manufactured in China
5 4 3 2 1
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About This Guide
Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and
then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day
guides are different. These guides tell you the best of every-
thing, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest,
most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed
itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special inter-
est. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you
from stop to stop.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking
for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best
hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shop-
ping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here.
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vi
About the Author
Mick Shippen, a British national, is an award-winning travel photographer
and writer. He lived in Thailand from 1997 to 2014 before relocating to
Vientiane in Lao PDR. He returns frequently to Bangkok, and did so for the
writing of this guide. He is the author of The Traditional Ceramics of South
East Asia, a beautifully illustrated book documenting the life and work of
craftsmen in Thailand, Malaysia, Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar. He also
wrote the photo-rich Presenting Cambodia and seven titles in the
Enchanting Asia series, as well as contributing words and images to
numerous books and magazines.
His photography has appeared in Vanity Fair, NatGeo Traveller, the UK’s
Sunday Times Magazine, and many more. A keen biker, he spends his
spare time motorcycling and has toured extensively on and off-road in
Cambodia, Laos, northern Thailand and Sri Lanka.
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any
time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you
write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The
authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however,
so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.
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vii
Frommers.com
Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website,
www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-
tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current
trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-
gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com
members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read
blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
A Note on Prices
In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used
a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the
price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant.
Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:
How to Contact Us
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation,
we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Support@FrommerMedia.com
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17 Favorite
Moments
2
17 Favorite Moments
17 Favorite Moments
F N15
Vimanmek DUSIT
Palace
Map F
Naihong
Kr
Rd
Area un Dusit
g
Ut
d
Ram Uth Park
aR
Rd
aV
III Nok ong Sri
sim
n
Rd Ayu
Ka
se
Brid m ttha
ge
se Kr
m
cha
Ph ya R
Sa
its d
Rat
F N14 an
u
ve
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V R m Rd
F
Ri
kR
Lu em
i Rd
d
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Ka
Sa Soi
o
ra
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Ra on Path
ata
ua
ms
s
N12
Ph N13
Kh en 1 S So
ng
jatp
F F
Rd
lon a i
ao
g B msen
ma
BANGKOK
h
d
Pra
Rd
it R
Nak
Ch
4
Ph ang L
Ph
NOI Ath
ok
F
Rd
ra
ra
Kla
ra R Su mpa
Pin e
Ph d
nN
oB
me h
n R oo
rid
se
noe
kho d
g
ng
d C Na wat R
bo
Banphak p h
am
kra
F N11 4 Sa
Rd
ak ng Rd
Rotfai
had
ho
Cha
kaph i-
Rd
Rd
F
at
Ratcha Santisuk
Na Phra
Maha Th
c
That Rd
damno
en Klan Church
Rat
atd
Lan Luang Rd
oen
F g Rd
Phrannok Rd Damrong
Tanao
ada n
Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F
Soi Sala N10
Nai Rm
d
F Kaeo ng M
Kanlayana
F aat
u
Boriph d
at Rd
N9
Maitri Rd Rd Chalo ang Rd
an B
chai R
em K
hak
Maha
Rd
Grand het 2
Soi B
Sanam
Palace R d
Fuang Nakorn
aC
Maha
rat Rd
Rd
Wor
Cha
N8 F Charoen Krung Rd oK
Arun
ham
Chai
rin Phiphit Rd ra T
Mait
R khu
F Ch m
Rd
Rd
Rd
aro Rd
rich
Rd
Mo Rd
d
at
Ban
Triphet
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it Rd
et
raw
Ya
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ph
Chak un
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kk
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raph
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ak
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Ch
at
it 1
Doe N7 Sapha
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Wan F t Rd CHINATOWN 10 R
IV ama
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tR
N6 F Son Rd
wa
Charo
gwa
o B ok
Sa
e
aban t Rd
ridg
It s
Kla hra P
Thets 1 Rd Chao
ng
Phra
ar a
en K
Sai
So
P
ap ya
ph
Riv
n er
Thetsaba F N5
ung r
Rd
Rd
Sai 2 Rd
Rd
F
i
k Rd
k Ya
d
g
Som
iR
Daen
det
Ma
C hao
hipo
a n g ko
Pray
g
ian
a Rd N4
ha T
F
Ch
Din
KHLONG SAN
Khlong B
Prac
Itsar
Tha
apha
p Rd F N3
Soi 3 F
15 a Rd
Inthraraph 12 Lad Y Rd
itak Rd en Rat
Charoen Nakhon Rd
Charo
F F
13 Tuktuks* N2
1 Wat Arun Wongwian Yai7 Sky Bar
Railway Station KHLONG SAN Soi 10 3
Rd
Soi
Taks
14 N1
3 Mandarin Oriental 9 Buddhist monks* 15 Manohra river boat F
Wongwian Yai Krung Thon Buri
hao
5 Pho
Mambo
Krung Thonburi 1
Chinatown 17 4Thai F
Nimit kladyboy
d Rd people*
ru R
tchapS show
Racabaret 11 Lumphini Park
det P
S
Saphan
6 Chatuchak Market 12 Anantara Bangkok
Som
Taksin
Riverside Resort * not mapped
Previous Page: An ornate guard ship on the river in front of the Grand Palace.
3
17 Favorite Moments
Sanam Pao S
Dusit Zoo
Rd
Rd
6
ao
hin
Ph
Rd
am
yo t
V
N
Sa
ma
hol
Chitralada Rat
n
Ra
P ha
imo
cha
Atth ang
Park
swa
with
Si
aW
i Rd
Soi hra N
Chu
pres
Yoth
Bun
e Ex
iR
So i
d
Soi
Stag
Royal Victory
k Rd
Monument S
2nd
um
Turf Club
h
halo
rap
E
LI N
U M Rd
Ph
mo
ank
its
SU athai
VIT
i Sa
an
Rd
RATCHATHEWI
Saw
ulo
Cha
kR
y
Pha
KH
d
Soi
Phaya
Thai Sri Ayu
S tthaya
R d
Petc Phaya
h abu Thai Ratchaprarop
buri 12
ri Rd
1
prarop
Soi 1
Rd
5
Soi 1
7
0
Soi Petcha
1
g
Soi 1
Soi 1
Thon
Soi 2
urat
Ratcha
S
that
Soi Cha
Ratchathewi
Ban
sway
g San Sap
Khlon
Expres
i Rd
National Siam
om
Ratchadamr
Rd
Maha Phruthar a m Rd
Stadium
Soi Chitl
2nd Sta
S S
m Rd
ongkorn 5
Rama VI
S t Rd
Rd
ongkorn 9
Thong
14
Rd
Rd
S
Railway Chulalongkorn Royal Bangkok
Banthat
Suan
Station
Soi Tonson
M Stadium
Rd
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
Phayathai
Hua
Henri Dunant
mri
Lamphong
Ram
hada
a IV
Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
Soi Kaeo Fa
Witthayu
Ratc
Maha N a khon Rd
Sam Yan
M
ya Rd Lumphini
Si Phra 11 Park
Sap
PATPONG
Charoen
BANGRAK
Rd
Silom
16 M
S
Krung Rd
Khl
Sala
Decho
wong
Sura
Pradit
Con
Soi
S
Soi t 2
Rd
Cho
S BTS Skytrain
Lumphini
ven
M
Mahesak
d ha
(New Rd)
mR
Soi 30
Phip
ng
tR
S
Non
Chong Nonsi
Transfer
si
Surasak Rd
Shopping center
0 0.5 km
4
17 Favorite Moments
exotic transvestite cabaret with
stunning sets and choreography.
See p 130.
❻ Getting lost among the chaos
at Chatuchak Weekend Market—
known simply as JJ. It’s easy to do
for hours on end—without finding a
postcard to send home to
grandma. You’d better leave a trail
of breadcrumbs as you wander the
maze of shops and stalls at the big-
gest market in the world, because
you’ll never find your way out! Still,
you’re sure to find other treats—
from parakeets to copper pots,
DVDs to Buddhist antiques, and silk A vendor at Chatuchak Market.
scarves to moonshine snake
whisky . . . but I’ve never seen any of robed monks walking the streets
postcards. See p 77. barefoot and single file each morn-
❼ Watching the sunset while sip- ing is one of the most photogenic
ping martinis at Sky Bar. The view scenes in Asia.
from the 63rd floor is spectacular, ❿ Taking in the aromas of food
but no matter how many times I’ve and spices down the backstreets
met friends for cocktails at Sky Bar, of Chinatown. You’ll find woks full
my heart still leaps into my throat of sizzling chillis, boiling pots of
when I look over the edge. I don’t coconut soup, skewered fish barbe-
know any other city that would cuing on grills, and row upon row
even allow a bar such as this to of cardamom, coriander, ginger,
exist. See p 117. ginseng, colorful fruit, and exotic
❽ Getting a hot herbal massage herbs. See p 33.
at Wat Pho, then falling asleep and ⓫ Practicing Tai Chi with nimble
awakening to find your body has octogenarians in Lumphini Park at
turned to jelly. I’m not sure how I dawn. I just join in at the back and
survived before I came to Bangkok follow the slow and controlled
and started the simple weekly ritual movements of the class as it flows
of getting all the tension and knots to the rhythm of an old Chinese
wrung from my body. Perhaps the soundtrack. Various groups gather
most physically and mentally relax- in the park every day for a 1-hour
ing activity a person can do, mas- session of this graceful martial art.
sage is cheap, it’s good for you, Afterwards, they sit and chat and
and feels great. What more can you laugh and drink green tea. I’m sure
ask for? See p 48. this is the secret to living over 100.
❾ Getting up at dawn to watch See p 10.
Buddhist monks collecting alms ⓬ Lazing in the Jacuzzi at the
from local Bangkokians. Rich and Anantara Bangkok Riverside
poor alike line the roadsides with Resort & Spa on a sunny day. Sun-
freshly cooked pots of rice and bathing in Bangkok is usually a
curry to offer the monks in no-go: with the humidity, it’s more
exchange for a prayer. The parade like poaching yourself. The Marriott
6
17 Favorite Moments
Anantara is just far enough from intimate and exotic and the food is
the city center that the air is a bit delicious. The Chao Phraya River is
fresher and a breeze comes off the glorious at night, and what better
river. With a day pass you can lie by way to see it than over an intimate
the tropical pool and bask in the dinner for two? See p 102.
outdoor Jacuzzi. See p 137.
⓰ Haggling for souvenirs at Pat-
⓭ Screaming down the back- pong. Notorious Patpong comes
streets in a tuk-tuk, zigzagging alive at night in more ways than
through the traffic, mounting the one. Stalls hug the pavements and
kerbs, and squeezing down alleys. spill over down the alleys. Vendors
No trip to Bangkok is complete will lure you into a haggling match
without a heart-stopping ride over little elephant statues, silk ties,
around the city’s streets with a hys- the latest DVDs, Buddha paintings,
terical tuk-tuk driver (for more thrills, Samurai swords, and copies of
try a motorbike taxi!). See p 166. high-end fashion, watches, and
more. See p 78.
⓮ Being seen at Sing Sing The-
ater. This visually dramatic night ⓱ Smiling back at Thais—the
venue is inspired by1930s Shanghai. friendliest people in the world.
With oriental lanterns, red lighting, Thailand is not known as the “Land
small balconies, speakeasy style pri- of Smiles” for nothing. A big beam-
vate rooms, DJs, and a dancefloor, ing smile is as much part of a tradi-
it’s a unique club that attracts Bang- tional greeting as a wai—the
kok’s trendy set. See p 121. pressing of palms and little bow
that Buddhists use to say ‘hello’.
⓯ Wining and dining on a
Even if a Thai slips and falls and
Manohra dinner cruise under the
bangs his head, he will smile,
moonlight. When romance beck-
maybe even laugh, and brush it off
ons, an evening dinner on a small
with the phrase “mai pen rai,”
cruise boat is the perfect option. It’s
meaning ‘it doesn’t matter’. •
1 The Best
Full-Day Tours
8
F N15
Vimanmek DUSIT
F
Palace
Naihong
Kr
Rd
un Dusit
g
Ut
Rd
Ram Uth Park
Rd
aV Nok ong Sri
ima
III
n
Rd Ayu
Ka
se
Brid ttha
s
ge m
se Kr
m
cha
Ph ya R
Sa
its d
Rat
F N14 an
un
ve
ulo
V R m Rd
F
Ri
kR
Lu
Rd
d
ya
kL
Ka
Sa Soi
o
BANGKOK
i
ra
d
Ra on Path
ata
ua
ms
s
N13
em
N12 Ph
Kh en 1 S So
ng
jatp
NOI F F
Rd
lon a i
ao
g B msen
ma
h
d
Pra
Rd
it R
Nak
Ch
4
Ph ang L
Ph Brid
Ath 5
Kla
ra
ok
F
Rd
6 ra ra a
Pin e
Su mp
o
R
d
Ph
nN
me h
n R oo
se
g
noe
kho d
ng
d C Na wat R
bo
Banphak p h
dam
kra
F N11 Sa
Rd
ak ng Rd
Rotfai
ho
Cha
kaph i-
cha
Rd
Rd
F
at
Ratchad Santisuk
Na Phra
Maha Th
That Rd
amnoen Church
Rat
atd
Klang R Lan Luang Rd
oen
F d
Phrannok Rd Damrong
Tanao
ada n
Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F
Soi Sala N10 4
Nai Rm
d
F Kaeo ng M
F Kanlayana aat
u
Boriph d
at Rd
Chalo ang Rd
Rd
N9
Maitri Rd
an B
chai R
em K
hak
3
Maha
Rd
het 2
Soi B
Sanam
R d
Fuang Nakorn
aC
Grand
Maha
rat Rd
Rd
Palace
Wor
Cha
N8 F Charoen Krung Rd oK
Arun
ham
Chai
rin Phiphit Rd ra T
Mait
R khu
F Ch m
d
Rd
Rd
aro Rd
tR
rich
d
Mo Rd
tR
d
Ban
7
Triphet
en
wa
it
he
Ya
So Kr
kra
Rd
Chak un
o
iW
p
wa
raph
kra
gR
ak
d F an
mR et Rd
r
d
Ch
at
it 1
Doe
a
N7 Sapha
Ch
Rd
g n Phu
Wan F t Rd CHINATOWN R
IV ama
d
tR
N6 F Son Rd
wa
Charo
gwa
Its
o B ok
Sa
e
aban t Rd
ara
ridg
Kla hra P
Thets 1 Rd Chao
ng
Phra
ph
en K
Sai
So
i
ya
k Ya
a
Riv
p
n er
Thetsaba F N5
rung
g ko
Rd
Rd
Sai 2 Rd
n
Rd
F
g Ba
k Rd
d
g
Som
iR
Daen
det
Ma
C
Khlon
hao
hipo
Pray
g
ian
a Rd N4
ha T
F
Ch
Din
KHLONG SAN
Prac
Itsar
Tha
apha
p Rd F N3
Soi 3 F
a Rd
1 Lumphini
Inthra Park Lad Y Rd
raphitak en Rat
Charoen Nakhon Rd
Rd Charo
2 The Golden Mount F F
N2
3 The Grand Wongwian
Palace Yai
KHLONG SAN Soi 10
Railway Station
Rd
4 Amulet Market F
in
Soi 14
Taks
Krung F
7 Pho
Wat Arun
Nimit
uk R
d
pr Thon Buri
h
a
atch S
det P
S
8 RJim Thompson Thai Silk Saphan
Som
9 Patpong Taksin
Previous page: Demon Guardian Wat Phra Kaew, Grand Palace Bangkok.
9
Map
V
Area
ma
Chitralada Rat
n
Ra
imo
cha
ay
Atth ang
Park with
essw
Si
aW
i Rd
Soi hra N
Chu
Expr
Yoth
Bun
i Rd
Soi
tage
Soi
Royal Victory
S
k Rd
Monument S
2nd
Turf Club
halo
E
LI N
UM Rd
Ph
ank
its
SU athai
VIT
an
RATCHATHEWI
Saw
ulo
kR
y
Pha
KH
Rd
d
Phaya
Thai Sri Ayu
S tthaya
R d
Petc Phaya
h abu Thai Ratchaprarop
buri 12
ri Rd
1
prarop
Soi 1
Rd
5
Soi 1
7
0
Soi Petcha
1
g
Soi 1
Soi 1
Thon
Soi 2
urat
Ratcha
S
that
Soi Cha
Ratchathewi
Ban
sway
g San Sap
Khlon
Expres
i Rd
National Siam
om
Ratchadamr
Rd
Maha Phruthar a m Rd
Stadium
Soi Chitl
2nd Sta
S S
m Rd
ongkorn 5
Rama VI
S t Rd
Rd
Shrine
gkorn 9
Thong
Rd
Lamphong Ratchadamri
Soi Chulal
Rd
S
Railway Chulalongkorn Royal Bangkok
Banthat
Suan
Station
Soi Tonson
M Stadium
Rd
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
Phayathai
Hua
Henri Dunant
mri
Lamphong
Ram
hada
a IV
Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
Soi Kaeo Fa
Witthayu
Ratc
Maha N a khon Rd
Sam Yan
M
ya Rd Lumphini
Si Phra Park
Sap
PATPONG 8
Charoen
BANGRAK 1
Rd
Silom
9 M
S
Krung Rd
Khl
Sala
Decho
won
Sura
Pradit
Con
Soi
S
Soi t 2
Rd
Cho
S BTS Skytrain
Lumphini
ven
M
Mahesak
d ha
(New Rd)
mR
Soi 30
Phip
ng
Silo
Rd
S
Non
Chong Nonsi
Transfer
si
Surasak Rd
www.ebook3000.com
11
Entry
3E
Maharat Rd
3D 3C 3B
Wat Phra Kaeo
(The Emerald
Buddha Temple)
3F 3A
Sanam
Borom
Phiman
Building
Chai Rd
3G
Dusit 3H
Amarin
Maha Chakri Maha Winitchai 3I
Prasat Prasat Building
Building Building
0 50 y
0 50 m
3A Emerald Buddha. The cen- you are familiar with the ancient
terpiece of the temple is the Emer- Hindu epic Ramayana, then follow
ald Buddha, a 66cm-high statue, the intricate mural clockwise
which is actually made of jade and around the cloisters of the
is believed to have come from Sri compound. The Thai version,
Lanka. It sits above a dazzling gold Ramakien, is told in lively detail.
altar inside the bot (main temple). Mural at the Wat Phra Kaew Museum.
Remember to be quiet and
respectful inside the bot and do
not point your feet towards the
Buddha. 3B Royal Pantheon.
Standing in the middle of the tem-
ple complex, the pantheon houses
life-sized statues of the past kings
of the current Chakri dynasty.
3C Phra Mondop. Easily recog-
nizable by its high spire, green
mosaic and gold Buddha on the
exterior is this chedi that acts as a
repository for sacred Buddhist
scriptures. 3D Phra Si Rattana
Chedi. This gold-tiled stupa was
built by King Mongkut (played by
Yul Brynner in the movie The King
and I). 3E Ramakien Gallery. If
13
Each Buddha in the long row at Wat Arun is slightly different than the next.
A young woman demonstrates the traditional way to spin silk at Jim Thompson Thai Silk.
17
Sex tourism is undoubtedly a thriv- can sit quietly at the back and nurse
ing business in this city and certain a beer while entranced men ogle
areas (Nana Plaza, Soi Cowboy and go-go dancers from around the
Patpong for starters) are lined with stage. Warning: In the street, touts
door-to-door go-go bars, sex shows, will approach you and invite you to
prostitution, massage services, and see their seedy shows, which involve
the like. Despite the seedy nature of nudity and sex acts. Even if they say
this underworld, many tourists can’t it’s free, you will have to pay a cover
resist having a peek at what goes on charge for these shows and you may
there. Two roads, Patpong 1 and also get an extortionate bill for
Patpong 2, are probably the most drinks. Bars above the ground floor
tourist- and female-friendly. The level have a particularly bad reputa-
streets have a nighttime market sell- tion for ripping off tourists and are
ing souvenirs and kitsch, so female best avoided. However, there’s a
visitors should not feel particularly galaxy of open-air bars and cafes
unsafe or unwanted. In fact, many where you can soak up the atmo-
couples and groups of gals like to sphere and watch the red-light dis-
visit the go-go bars. King’s Castle trict in action without getting
and King’s Corner are two of the involved. 11⁄2 hr. Patpong Rd,
N
most reputable joints on Patpong Bangrak. Daily 7pm–1am. BTS Sky-
Road, where female visitors and for- Train: Sala Daeng or MRT subway:
eign couples are commonplace. You Silom.
Vimanmek
F N15
F 7 Palace
Naihong
Map Kr
Rd
un Dusit
Area g
Ut
d
Ram Uth Park
aR
aV
III Nok ong Sri
sim
Rd Ayu
Ka
Brid m ttha
ge
se Kr
cha
Ph ya R
its d
Rd
Rat
F N14 an
u
ve
ulo
ng
V R m Rd
F
Ri
kR
en
Lu
i Rd
d
ya
ms
kL
Ka
Sa Soi
o
ra
d
Ra on Path
ata
ua
ms
se
Sa
N12 N13
Ph Kh en 1 S So
ng
m
jatp
F F
Rd
lonRd a i
ao
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ma
h
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i t
Rd
BANGKOK
Nak
Ch
Ath 6 an 4
Ph Brid
F hra Ph g La
ok
Kla
Rd
ra
e
NOI P g ra
Su mph
Pin ge
o
on
nN
b m en oo
ra d
Ch Rd
noe
R Rd kho d
ao
C
ak
Banphak p h Na wat R
Fa
Rd
am
Ch
Rotfai F N11 5 Sa
hat
ak ng Rd
had
ho
kaph i-
Rd
Rd
at Rd
Maha T
Santisuk
4 Ratcha
c
damno
en Klan Church
Rat
atd
Lan Luang Rd
Phra Th
oen
F g Rd
Phrannok Rd Damrong
Tanao
ada n
Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F
Nai Rm
Soi
Rachin
Ratch
F ng
F Kaeo Kanlayana aat Mua
Boriph d
at Rd
Rd
N9 ng
Maitri Rd
an B
chai R
Rd
Maha
hak
Rd
Grand
Soi B
Sanam
Palace
Fuang Nakorn
aC
Maha
rat Rd
Rd
Wor
Cha
N8 F Charoen Krung Rd oK
Arun
ham Luang Rd
Chai
rich
Rd
aro d
Mo Rd
d
at
Ban
Triphet
Wat Arun en
it Rd
et
raw
Ya
un
o
raph iW
kk
wa
ra
Rd of Dawn) F et Rd an gR
a
ak
oem d
Ch
at
Saph it 1 R
gD N7
Ch
an Ph
Rd
Wan F ut Rd
CHINATOWN IV ama
Rd
d
tR
N6 F
Charo
Son
wa
gwa
o B ok
Sa
e
aban t Rd
ridg
It s
Kla hra P
Thets 1 Rd Chao
en K
ng
Phra
ar a
Sai
So
P
ap ya
ph
Riv
rung
n er
Rd Thetsaba F N5
Rd
Sai 2 Rd
Rd
F
Ya i
k Rd
d
g
Som
iR
BTS Skytrain
Daen
S det
Ma
k
C hao
hipo
a n g ko
Pray
g
ian
F Ferry stop a Rd N4
ha T
F
Ch
Din
Khlong B
Information
Prac
Itsar
Tha
apha
Post office p Rd F N3
Soi 3 F
a Rd
Inthraraph Lad Y Rd
itak Rd en Rat
Charoen Nakhon Rd
lime, green tea, pickled snake, and the import restrictions you may
many other wild concoctions from face when returning home. You
the Chinese traditional medicine might want to check your govern-
stores. Many of the pharmacists, or ment’s website on customs
alchemists, can speak English and regulations regarding bringing
will be ready to offer a herbal rem- home raw foods, plants, drugs,
edy, whatever your ailment. Of and medicines. Maharat Rd. No
course, you may want to buy credit cards. Ferry: Tha Tien pier
some ginseng roots, balms, essen- (N8).
tial oils, or the like, but remember
d
ay
Bam
Rd
rung
kR
at Rd
i
7A Mua 1 g San Sap 7B
Rd
GrandM MRT subway Khlon
h
ng R
ressw
d
c
Cha
Palace 3
S
i Rd
Boriph
S BTS Skytrain Siam
Rd
National
om
Sanam
Wat Pathum
ge Exp
Rama I 4
Wor
Maha
Cha Rd Stadium
oK Siam Paragon Wanram
Transfer ham Luang Rd S S 5
Chai
Fuang Nakorn
Phra Yom rop
National S Chit
Ratchadamr
Soi Chitl
Rd
m Rd
Rama I Rd
2nd Sta
F FerryPhiphit
stop Rd ma Rd
ra T Stadium SIAM Lom
k
Mait
S Ploenchi
d
Rd
MBK SiamSQUARE t Rd
ric
Rd
6
Rd
Ch hum R
Information d
ongkorn 5
2
tR
aro Soi CChhulalo SUKHUM
ngk
gkoorn 12
Ban
Erawan
t
Ya
en VIT LINE
hit R
he
o
Mo Rd
d
Rama VI
PATHUMWAN
n9
wa
Post office So Kr Shrine
rap
wa
un
Krung Kase
r
iW
k
a
Rd
F
kr a
gR
k
an
Thong
ha
d
tR
Soi Chulal
a
C
Shopping center
d
N7
it 1
ongkor
F
Ch Hua Charoen Muang Rd
d
Ra Ratchadamri
Lamphong
Rd
CHINATOWN S
tR
ma
IV Railway
wa
N6 F Son Chulalongkorn
an
Royal Bangkok
e
R d Station
Sa
gwa
University
Su
g
Soi Chulal
Sports Club
ridg
INE
t Rd
Banthat
M
on
Chao Stadium
P
o B ok
Rd
Charo
S
Phra
1 Chatuchak Market
Kla hra P
ya Hua
Soi Tonson
Riv
Lamphong
en K
mri
er F N5
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
a
2 Sampeng Lane
d
Ram
Rd
Phayathai
rung
Sarasin Rd
ha
d F a IV
Rd
iR
3 Jim Thompson’s
Rd
Henri Dunant
Ma
The Best in 3 Days
Ratc
House
g
S om Sam Yan
de t M
ian
Ch a Lumphini
Witthayu
4 Siam Paragon o N4 ya Rd
Ch
F
Pray
Soi Kaeo Fa
a Si Phra Park
PATPONG
ap R
5 Harrods Tea Room Rd
d
BANGRAK Silom
6 Erawan Shrine M
Charoen
N3
Maha N a khon Rd
Map F S
7A Ratchadamnoen Soi 3 F Khl Sala Daeng
Area
Boxing Stadium Rd Decho Lumphini
ong
en Rat Rd wong
itak Rd M
Con
Charo Sura
Soi
Krung Rd
Rd
Pradit
7B Lumpinee Boxing F d
Cho
F
ven
Soi t 2
t
N2 d ha orn R d
ng
ngwian Yai
Stadium KHLONG mR Phip Sath orn R
Rd
Rd
Silo
Soi 30
ay Station S
Nor th uth Sath
o
Mahesak
SAN 9 Chong Nonsi S
Non
8 Sky Bar
(New Rd)
F
si
Soi 14 N1 0 1/2 mi
9 The Mandarin F
Charoen Nakhon Rd
Wongwian
Oriental: Yai
Author’s Krung Thon Buri 8 Soi
S S Krung Thonburi R F Wiang 0 0.5 km
Lounge d
Surasak Rd
F
25
Thai Silk
The art of weaving silk arrived in Thailand from China over 2000
years ago. Threads of silk are extracted from the cocoons of silk-
worms, which feed exclusively on mulberry leaves. The threads are
reeled together into fibers by hand before being boiled and
bleached to remove the natural yellow of silk yarn. The silk is then
dyed before being hand-woven on a wooden loom. This labor-
intensive system ensures that each Thai silk product is unique.
While a little more coarse than its shiny Chinese counterpart, Thai
silk has a more subtle luster, an ideal material for making women’s
dresses and scarves and men’s shirts, and is a luxurious fabric for
furniture.
28
The Best Full-Day Tours
Thai music and some Sumo-esque 63rd floor of lebua Hotel is the Sky
rituals. Although you’ll rarely see Bar. The spine-chilling views of the
any serious injuries, some might city below warrant at least enough
find the sport too violent. There time to enjoy a cocktail, a martini, or
are two main stadiums in Bangkok: a glass of wine to keep your knees
7A Ratchadamnoen Boxing Sta- from turning to jelly. 63rd floor, lebua
dium, which is the national Thai box- at State Tower Hotel, 1055 Silom Rd,
ing arena with championship bouts; Bang Rak. ☎ 02 624 9555. www.
and 7B Lumphini Boxing Stadium, a thedomebkk.com. Daily 6pm–1am.
brand new purpose built stadium for BTS SkyTrain: Saphan Taksin.
5,000 spectators. See p 131. 9 ★★★ The Mandarin Oriental:
❽ ★★★ Cocktails at Sky Bar. Author’s Lounge. For years the Ori-
Precariously situated like a diving ental was acknowledged as “The
board over a swimming pool on the World’s Greatest Hotel” and many,
including myself, would argue that it
There are photo-ops galore at the Grand has lost little of its timeless charm.
Palace. Even if you are not staying at the
Mandarin Oriental (see p 142) you will
still want to take a look at it. Walk
through the cool and tropical—but
not ostentatious—lobby, past the
boutiques and you’ll come into a
lounge with ceiling fans, French win-
dows and a Kiplingesque air of British-
Raj India. This is the Author’s Lounge,
where many of the greats, including
Joseph Conrad, W Somerset
Maugham, and Noel Coward, penned
their works. Soak up the atmosphere
with coffee and cake or high tea and
scones served on pristine china.
N 45 02min. 48 Oriental Ave, Bang Rak.
☎ 659 9000. www.mandarin
oriental.com. BTS SkyTrain: Saphan
Taksin. Ferry: Oriental pier (N1). $$. •
2 The Best Special-
Interest Tours
30
Kr
un 0 1 mi
gt
he
p
No
nt 0 1 km
ha
bu
NONTHABURI ri
Rd
Rd
en Rd
n g
Don Meuang
wa
Sa
a Chu
g
n
Wo
Prach
Tollway
La
tP
hra
oR
d
HUAY
Ratchadaphisek Rd
KWANG
1
ay
essw
Rd
Pradipha
t Rd
anit
Expr
haw
Tec
hern
er
Am
Rd
nu
Riv
ay PHAYA
othin
So
Nor t
Nak ngk
Rd
m
sen
r ay
Cha Rd
i Si
Pha
Sam
Rd
o Ph
Rat
cha
Rd
with
i Rd
ok
DUSIT
Cha
nN
noe
Sri
Ayu
2n
ttha Yot dS
dam
ya h i Rd tag DIN
R d e DAENG
cha
Ex
p re
Rat
2 ssw
Lan Luang Rd
RATCHATHEWI a y
Petc
ssway
ha buri
Rd Sri Ayu
1st
uang Rd
tthaya
Rd
I Expre
Stage
Petch
a buri R
ri Rd
CHINATOWN d
Rong M
i Rd
d
Expressway
phisek R
Rama V
Rama I Rd
Ratchadam
3
Phayatha
a
Rd
Ratchad
Witthayu
PATHUMWAN
55
Rd
Su
ya Rd
it
Si Phra kh
k Sin
umv
um
4 g Rd 5 Ram vit
Sukh
won a IV
o Ta
Rd
Sura ilom Rd Rd SUKHUMVIT
KHLONG S
Cha
SAN h Rd
7
BANGRAK Nort
hra
orn
Sath
et P
Ram
Ra
a IV
Ch 6
d
Na agarin
Som
jan
Rd
ale
rad dr
R r
d
n m - M nakhon Expres
hiw a R
a kh o SATHORN a swa
y
as d
nN
roe Rd
ha g Chan
un R d
Kr
C
n
oe
Prad
ar
Sathit Rd
d
Ch
tR
u
Ra
Rama
ay
aro
ressw 2 Banglamphu
Exp
Ch
III Rd
R a ma III Rd 3 Chinatown
PHRA
n o
kh
PRADAENG
4 Khlong San Market
a
an
Su Ra
-M
kS t Bura
na R YANNAWAT 5 Silom & Surawong
rm
aw d
ale
at
Rd
6 Klong Toey Market
Ch
RATBURANA
7 Sukhumvit East
Previous page: Fine Italian marble gives Benchamabophit Wat its dazzling good looks.
31
If you’re squeamish about goods sitting out unwrapped and unrefrigerated, the
upscale Or Tor Kor Market is where to shop.
32
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Papaya Salad (Som-Tam)
Aside from the ubiquitous noodle stalls, the most popular street
food in Bangkok is arguably som-tam. Recognizable by her large
wooden or earthenware mortar and pestle, the som-tam vendor is
an artist in her own right. She surrounds herself with a variety of
ingredients and pounds them in the mortar one by one—cherry
tomatoes, chillis, palm sugar, dried prawns, pickled crab, peanuts,
snake beans, garlic, lime juice, fish sauce, and the main ingredient,
long shards of green papaya. Tell her how spicy you want it. I
always ask for my som-tam without the salty prawns and crab, and
then eat it with a 10-baht portion of sticky rice and some fried
chicken. The best 50-baht takeaway you can get!
A street vendor selling fried cockroaches and other insects. Will these photo-snapping
tourists buy any?
33
of Bangkok’s restaurants
The Best Special-Interest Tours
buy here wholesale so the place
is buzzing almost 24-hours a day,
7 days a week. Cnr Ratchadaphisek
& Rama IV rds, Klong Toey. Daily
6am–2am. MRT subway: Klong
Toey.
❼ ★★ Sukhumvit East. On the
north side of the Thong Lor BTS
station, you’ll see stalls selling a
kaleidoscope of exotic fruit—ram-
butans, mangoes, durians, mango-
steens, jackfruit and more. On the
opposite side of the street, Soi 38 is
one of Bangkok’s gems. Mobile
stalls offer Chinese and Thai favor-
ites, including dim sum, khao mun
gai (chicken and rice), sticky rice
and mango in coconut sauce (deli-
cious!), pork satay, and oyster
omelets. Sukhumvit Rd sois 55 and
Today’s catch is laid out at Klong Toey 38. Daily noon–9pm. BTS SkyTrain:
Market. Thong Lor.
Buddhist Temples
Naihong
Map Kr
Rd
un Park
Area g
Ut
d
Ram Uth
aR
aV
III Nok ong Sri
sim
Rd Ayu
Ka
Brid m ttha
ge
se Kr
cha
Ph ya R
its d
Rd
Rat
F N14 9 an
r
u
ve ulo
ng
V R m Rd
F
Ri
kR 10
en
Lu
i Rd
d
ya
ms
kL
Ka
Sa Soi
o
ra
d
Ra on Path
ata
ua
ms
se
Sa
N12 N13
Ph
Kh en 1 S So
ng
m
jatp
F F
Rd
d lon a i
ao
g B msen
ma
it R
h
Pra
Rd
BANGKOK
Nak
Ch
Ath an 4
Ph Brid
hra Ph g La
ok
F
Kla
Rd
ra
NOI P Rd ra
Su mph
Pin ge
o
nN
se m
8 ng en oo
Ch Rd
noe
Rd kho d
ao
7 C
bo
Banphak p h Na wat R
Fa
Rd
am
ra
Rotfai F N11 Sa
hak
hat
ak ng Rd
had
ho
kaph i-
Rd
Rd
h a t Rd
Maha T
Santisuk
Nai Rd en C
Ratcha
c
damno
en Klan Church
Rat
atd
g Rd Lan Luang Rd
Phra T
F
Phrannok Rd
o
Damrong
Tanao
adamn
Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F N10
Soi Sala Wat 5
Tonchai Mahathat 6 1
Na
Soi
Rachin
Ratch
F ng
Kanlayana
aat
F Kaeo Mua
Boriph d
at Rd
Rd
N9 2 ng
Maitri Rd
an B
chai R
Rd
Nakorn
Maha
hak
Grand
Soi B
Sanam
Palace 4
aC
Maha
rat Rd
3
Rd
Rd
Wor
Cha
N8 F Charoen Krung Rd oK
Arun
Fuang
ham Luang Rd
Chai
rin Phiphit Rd ra T
Mait
k
R F Ch hum R
d
Rd
Rd
tR
rich
d
aro d
Mo Rd
tR
d
Ban
Triphet
Wat Arun en
wa
it Rd
he
Ya
So Kr
kra
iW
rap
raph
wa
gR
ak
Rd of Dawn) F et Rd an
ak
oem d
Ch
at
Saph it 1 R
gD N7
Ch
an Ph
Rd
Wan F ut Rd
CHINATOWN IV ama
Rd
d
tR
N6 F
Charo
Son
wa
gwa
o B ok
Sa
e
aban t Rd 11
ridg
It s
Kla hra P
Thets 1 Rd Chao
en K
ng
Phra
ar a
Sai
So
P
ap ya
ph
12 Riv
r
ung
er F N5
Rd
Rd
Rd
F
ai
Som
g
ok Y
det
Rd
Daen
Cha
o Pr
ipok
aya
angk
Rd 1 Wat Saket N4
KHLONG F
a Th
Din
Khlong B
Itsar
Prac
Tha
6 Wat RatchanatdaF F
Wongwian Yai N2
S BTS Skytrain Soi 10
Railway Station 7 Wat Bowornniwet
Rd
F Ferry stop F
in
Wongwian F
Yai Information 9 Wat Intara Wihan
hao
S S F
Post office 10 Wat Benchamabophit F
hra C
k Rd 11 Wat Traimit
apru S S
det P
Flags flutter atop Wat Saket, also known as the Golden Mount.
37
meditation technique are held daily subway. Nearest ferry: Tha Tien
The Best Special-Interest Tours
(see p 48, bullet ❶), often with pier (N8).
English-language instruction. For-
❼ Wat Bowon Niwet. Founded
tune tellers often set up stalls inside
in 1826, this temple also serves as a
the compound. Running along the
Buddhist university. At one time it
northern wall outside the temple is
was the traditional temple of mem-
the Amulet Market (see p 14, bullet
bers of the royal family when they
❹), where you can buy antique
entered monkhood. Nowadays
Buddha images and lucky charms.
you’ll notice there are always for-
Phra That Rd (near Sanam Luang),
eign/western monks and many reli-
Rattanakosin. ☎ 02 222 6011.
gious ceremonies are conducted in
Admission free. Daily 7am–5pm.
English. The temple contains
Ferry: Tha Chang (N9).
murals depicting western life in the
❻ Wat Ratchanatdaram. I find 19th century. In the compound
this Indian-style temple, with its 37 you’ll also find a pond full of giant
steel spires pointing to the sky, turtles and catfish and an herbal
quite spectacular. It was built by medicine center. 248 Phra Sumen
King Rama III for his granddaughter Rd, Banglamphu. ☎ 02 281 2831.
in the 19th century. The large white Admission free. Daily 8am–5pm.
temple is set in a compound with Ferry: Phra Arthit pier (N13).
immaculate gardens and bonsai
❽ Wat Chana Songkhram. This
trees. You can easily find shade in
Buddhist temple from the Ayut-
one of the open-air salas. There’s
thaya period was presented to a
also a small Buddhist market in the
group of ethnic Mon monks by
compound where you can buy
King Rama I. Inside the ubosot
Hindu and Buddhist images and
(ordination hall) you’ll find a statue
lucky charms. Mahachai Rd, Phra
of King Taksin the Great, and
Nakorn. ☎ 02 224 8807. Admission
there’s an interesting motif of the
free. Daily 8am–5pm. No SkyTrain or
Hindu god Vishnu mounted on the
The spires of Wat Ratchanatdaram are dazzling at sunset.
39
www.ebook3000.com
41
d
Samakkh
i Rd
Rd
non
rn Exp
Chuen
Rd
Ram
e
Pracha
North
Intr
aR
d
d
in R
Ngam Wong Wan R
d
ot h
holy 1
ay
Pha
No Kru
ssw
nth ng K as
ab thep et N
re
uri awa Ra
Exp
m
Nua
Rd in R m
d Int
nC
NONTHABURI ra
ng
Rd
han
Rd
Don Meuang
Rd
Chok Chai 4 Rd
aro
Rd
ng
amin
Rd
wa
At N
Chuen
Sa 2
Naw
g ra –
n
Wo
Pracha
5
Inth
Tollway
Ram
Lat
Phr
d
Ratchadaphisek Rd
ao BUNG
it R
r
Rd
ive
Rd
n
KUM
thin
aR
awa
PHAYA
olyo
h
r ay
Rd
Tec
THAI Rd Rd
Phah
Ph
hai
sen
Ratc ng
haw ri T hae
ao
Sam
Sri
Ayu ta
Rd Ram
tth aya Yoth ge KAPI
R i Rd E
d xp r
e s s w ay
Area of 4
Inset
A t Narong Expwy
ek Rd
Petcha
1st Stage
Rama I Rd buri R
d Bangkok-Chonbu
ri Motorw
Expressway
R atchadaph is
ay
Rama VI
63
Su
umvit
kh
t 71
Ram um
Expres s
KHLONG a IV vit
Inth Sukhumvi
7
Sukh
Rd Rd
Rd
SAN Rama I 10
Srinakarin
wa Rd
ra –
y 12 SIAM
Rd
Rd
on SATHORN 8
ak h SQUAREPRAWET
u ng
ay
nN ss
w
roe
Kr
Chan R d
11 re
Ram
ha PHRA
en 13
xp
C
aro E KHANONG
Rd
Ch hon
Rama I
Phayathai Rd
nak
ri
PHRA
Ratchadam
a
PRADAENG
II Rd
Su
BANG Sportsclub
-M
kS Rd
em
aw
atR NAvit 103
Sukhum
alo
d
d
Ch
gR
Rd
en
ahu
Henri Dunant
P h et c h
d
vit R
hum
Suk
9
0 3 mi Ram Lumphini
a IV Park
Rd
0 3 km
towards younger children. There than to get out of Bangkok and kick
are ice-cream parlors, restaurants back at a water park? And when the
and a host of booths around the kids finally get tired of sliding down
park. It’s situated outside the city; the flumes, there’s an amusement
you should call ahead to organize park, a botanical garden, an aviary,
packages, which include transfers a zoo, a safari park, and a Jurassic
from your hotel, lunch, and all the Park theme park to choose from.
rides in the price. Otherwise, a taxi For me, though, it’s the water park
is the best alternative. 62 Moo 1, that is the highlight, despite the
Rangsit-Ongka Rak Rd, Km 7, Than- screaming and shouting of a thou-
yaburi, Pathumthani. ☎ 02 533 sand kids. Check the website first
1152. www.dreamworld.co.th. Admis- for the best deals. If you only want
sion 450 baht, kids under 90cm (35 to visit the water park, prices are
in) free; package with transfers from 200 baht (adults) and 100 baht (chil-
1,200 baht. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat dren), then you have a pay-per-ride
& Sun 10am–7pm. Bus: 538 from Vic- system. For those who want to
tory Monument/Don Mueang Bus make a full day of it, you can buy
Terminal. combination tickets (350 to 1000
baht), which include most, if not all,
❹ Bangkok Dolls Museum.
attractions. 203 Suan Siam Rd, Kanna
Founded in 1957, with some exqui-
Yaow, Min Buri. ☎ 02 919 7200.
site handcrafted pieces, this is a
www.siamparkcity.com. Admission
doll factory, a museum and a retail
1,000 baht adults, 900 baht kids,
shop rolled into one. It also has a
family ticket 3,000 baht. Daily 10am–
short history of dolls and some col-
6pm. No SkyTrain, subway, or ferry.
lectors’ items. 85 Soi Ratchataphan,
Ratchataphan Rd, Pratunam. ☎ 02 ❻ ★★ Dusit Zoo. Thailand’s top
245 3008. www.bangkokdolls.com. zoo has more than 300 species of
Admission free. Tue–Sun 8am–5pm. animals, including rhinos, ele-
BTS SkyTrain: Victory Monument, phants, hippos, tapirs, gibbons,
plus a 1km walk. lions, tigers, crocodiles, and exotic
birds. There are lots of lakes, which
❺ ★★★ Siam Park City. This is
have pedalos and shaded places to
Bangkok’s best and most over-the-
sit and eat. It’s very busy on week-
top amusement center and all-in-
ends, so avoid it on Saturdays and
one theme park. What better way
Sundays if you can. Ratchawithi Rd
to cool down on a sweltering day
44
The Best Special-Interest Tours
(cnr Rama V Rd). ☎ 02 281 2000. ❽ ★ Kim Bowl. Almost every
www.dusitzoo.org. Admission 150 shopping mall has 10-pin bowling
baht adults, 70 baht kids. Daily on its top floor alongside video
8am–6pm. Ferry: Thewet pier (N15), game machines and karaoke
plus a 1km walk. booths. Kim Bowl is my favorite
❼ ★ Siam Ocean World. Situ- You don’t usually find sharks at the mall,
ated in the basement of the chic but you do at Siam Ocean World, which
shopping mall Siam Paragon (see is set in the basement of the popular
p 26, bullet ❹), this huge neon-lit Siam Paragon.
aquarium is a surprise. Siam Ocean
World is an easily accessible attrac-
tion that’s very popular on week-
ends. Sharks, exotic fish, penguins,
rays, and otters abide down here.
The show mainly entails feeding
sessions, including shark feedings
at 1pm and 4pm, but there’s almost
always something extra for young
children, such as a “magic mer-
maid” show. The only distasteful
part for me is that foreigners have
to pay two to three times the
admission fee. Floor B1–B2, Siam
Paragon, Siam Square, 991 Rama I
Rd, Pathumwan. ☎ 02 687 2000.
www.siamoceanworld.co.th. Admis-
sion foreigners 990 baht adults, 790
baht kids. Discounts for advance
online bookings. Daily 9am–10pm.
BTS SkyTrain: Siam.
45
because it’s always like a party— spatial awareness games for tod-
N15
Vimanmek DUSIT
F Palace
F
Naihong
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damno
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Phrannok Rd Damrong
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Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F
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Nai Rm
d
1
Tonchai Wat Mahathat The Golden
Soi
Rachin
Ratch
F Kaeo ng M
Kanlayana
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at Rd
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an B
chai R
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hak
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rat Rd
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ham
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rung
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ian
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p Rd F N3
F
a Rd
Nakhon Rd
Charoen
Inthraraph Lad Y Rd
itak Rd en Rat
Charo
4 5
F N2 F
KHLONG SAN
Soi 10 6
Wongwian Yai F
1 Wat Mahathat
Railway Station 6 The Oriental Spa & 11 Absolute
Soi 14 Yoga
Wongwian
2 Wat Bowonniwet Ayurvedic
Yai
Penthouse 12 The Marble House N1 F
Krung Thonburi
3 Wat Pho 7 The Metropolitan
S
Rd S F
Krung Thonburi 113 Center for the Blind
4 Rd Krung F
Pho Nimit Rd 8 Banyan Tree Spa
4 aWat pruk Nam
haPak Thon Tai
14 Chen BuriChi School
R tc S S
5 Nakornthon Thai 9 Oasis Spa Saphan
Taksin
Medical Spa 10 Rasayana Retreat
47
t 35
Su
t 39
khu 10
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mv Soi Prom
humvi
khumvi
Rat it R mitr
ma
Soi Sukhumvit 20
Chitralada cha d
with 9
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ay
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Atth ang
Park
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Soi Su
Si
aW
So i
Soi hra N
Chu
Expr Benjasiri
Yoth Park S Phrom Phong
Bun
iR
So i
d
age
The Emporium
Soi
St
Royal
k Rd
2nd
Victory Monument S
Turf Club Sri
Ayu M MRT subway
halo
ttha
E
LI N
U M Rd
Ph ya R S
ank
SU athai
VIT
an
RATCHATHEWI
Saw
ulo
kR Airport Rail Link
y
Pha
KH
d
Phaya Transfer
Thai
S
F Ferry stop
Petc Phaya
h abu Thai Information
buri 12
ri Rd
1
Soi 1
Rd
Post office
0
Soi Petcha
1
g
Soi 1
Thon
Soi 2
Shopping center
S
that
Ratchathewi
Ban
sway
g San Sap
Khlon
Expres
i Rd
om
National Siam
Ratchadamr
Soi Chitl
Maha Phruthar a m Rd
Stadium
2nd Sta
S S 12
m Rd
ongkorn 5
Rama VI
Erawan S t Rd
11
Rd
To Sukhumvit
gkorn 9
Thong
Road
Rd
(see inset)
Hua Charoen Muang Rd
on
Lamphong Ratchadamri
Soi Chulal
Rd
S
Railway Chulalongkorn
Banthat
Royal Bangkok
Suan
Station
Soi Tonson
University
INE
Sports Club
M Stadium
Rd
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
Phayathai
Hua
Henri Dunant
mri
Lamphong
Ram
hada
a IV
Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
Soi Kaeo Fa
Witthayu
Ratc
Maha N a khon Rd
Sam Yan
M
ya Rd Lumphini
Si Phra Park
Sap
PATPONG
Charoen
BANGRAK
Rd
M
S
Silom
Kr
Sala Daeng
Decho
ung Rd (N
won g Rd
Sura
Pradit
Con
Soi
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Rd
M
ven
Mahesak
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Soi 30
Phip
t
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South
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7
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n Rd
Soi thor
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Nor t
Rat
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Naar nakh
ch
S
ath arin
Cho
Surasak 0 1/2 mi
iwa Rd
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0 0.5 km
si
48
Rd
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Map Ph
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bo
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m
i Pho
Soi Dam
Phra
no Santisuk
Dinso
ada
adamnoen Klang Ta en
tch Klang R i Church
Ra d
ch
ng Rd
That Rd
Chao
Sanam Soi Dam 4 Rat
Luang no Lan Luang Rd
Phra 8 Trok S Klang Ta en
Na Phra
THA PHRA F C han ake i
CHAN Rd
The Old City
Damrong
Rak Rd
9
d
Wat Bunsiri Rd The Golden
F Ferry Stop Mount
Atsad
adam
Mahathat Sanam
Nai Rd noen
So
Maha That Rd
Information City Hall
Dinso R
i Sala Tonch
ai Luang Mahanno 1
p Rd Wat
ang R
Ratch
Rachin
start
d
Soi Sam Saket
ra
Tanao Rd
n Rat
i Rd
Buranasat Rd
1 The Golden Mount 10 Trok Nawa
Na Phra Lak Muang Rd
2 Soi Ban Baat
Arun Amarin Rd
Kanla Ya Nami Soi Ban
4 Democracy Monument Buddha Temple) Soi Sukhat Wat Baat
Sutat
aat
d
at Rd
Maha
Siriphong Rd
an B
Boriph
chai R
Ratchabophit Rd
Sanam C
Wat
Soi B
rat Rd
7 National Gallery Rommani
Cha
Soi Suan Mali 1
Rd
Ratchabophit Dit
a
Nart Luan
Maha
Ong An
g Rd sam
hai Rd
8 Mae Toranee Saranrom Park ak
Wor
0 1/4 mi Rd
9 Amulet Market Palace
Ti Tong Rd
K h lo n g
Charoen Krung Rd
53
The Golden Mount towers over the surrounding neighborhood offer visitors
spectacular views.
54
This powerful modern monument, a symbol of Democracy, is often the meeting place
for political demonstrations.
55
popular with hip young Thais for its ❼ ★ National Gallery. Contem-
effervescent nightlife and air of reck- porary Thai art housed in an old
less abandon. The 400m walk along colonial building. The tranquil
Khao San usually takes at least an ambience and air-conditioning
hour, as you have to walk a gauntlet offer blissful respite from the heat.
of vendors, beggars, con artists, See p 21, bullet ❺.
travel agents, hairdressers, tattoo
artists, dentists, cobblers, and jewel- ❽ Mae Toranee. Opposite the
ers. You can shop for cheap clothes, Royal Hotel is a small fountain ded-
jewelry, and CDs, sit at a cafe and icated to the Earth Goddess, whose
people-watch, or just have a drink statue sits inside the shrine washing
and enjoy the Mardi Gras atmo- her hair of evil spirits. Opp Royal
sphere. It’s quiet in the mornings, Hotel, Ratchadamnoen Ave. Ferry:
becoming steadily busier and crazier Phra Arthit pier (N13).
as the day goes on. 1 hr. Ferry:
N ❾ ★★★ Amulet Market.
Phra Arthit pier (N13). Throngs of religious devotees and
the superstitious gather here to
6 Soi Rambuttri. Just around
examine, discuss, and haggle for
Buddhist amulets and lucky charms.
the corner from Khao San Road is
See p 14, bullet ❹.
the green and leafy Soi Rambuttri.
This pleasant street offers an array ❿ Lak Muang. Just to the east of
of cheap and cheerful street stalls the Grand Palace is the site of a
where you can try a wide variety of wooden pillar erected by King Rama
local favorites such as spicy somtam I in 1782 to mark the founding of
papaya salad, grilled chicken and Bangkok and to protect the city. The
fish, and one dish wonders like pad shrine has great spiritual significance
Thai. Try grilled sticky rice and and you will see devotees making
banana wrapped in a banana leaf offerings or even hiring classical
for dessert. Delicious. You will also dancers to perform. The pillar also
find laidback cafes and restaurants, marks the center of the city, from
along with book shops and clothing which all mileages are taken. Cnr Na
stalls, so save time for a little after Hap Phoei & Ratchadamnoen Nai rds.
lunch browsing. Daily 24 hr. Ferry: Admission free. Daily 6am–6pm.
Phra Arthit pier (N13). Ferry: Phra Arthit pier (N13).
56
Naihong
Rd
F Ferry stop 15 0 2 km
Ut
d
Uth finish
aR
Ram Nok ong Sri
Taiw
Ayu Dusit Park
sim
aV Rd
Brid III ttha
way
a
cha
Ph ya R
non
ge d
BANGKOK Rattitsa
Rd
ern Express
Rat
Kr
F
an nu
Rd
un
NOI N14 athlio
V R m Rd
F bket R d
i Rd
en
Lu em
12 Rd
14
kL
ms
Ka
ata
o
ua
d
Ra oNnoPrtahth
s
Sa
N12 11 13
jatp
ng
N13
Sam Soi Kh
Rd
F F lon
Pra
d sen
ma
it R
h
gB
Rd
4
Nak
d
Ph Brid
t h a n nR
Kla
F ra A
ra
P g Na k h o n I
ok
Rd
10 gs hra S Lam e
Pin ge
o
Ph n
nN
bo um pho
Wat Phra ra d en o
hon d
noe
R Rd C ak R
ak
Kaeo
N11 p h N awat
am
Ch
ak ng Rd
had
9 area
ho
F
kaph i-
Rd
Rd
at Rd
Ratchadamno
c
en Klan
Rat
atd
8 g Rd Lan Luang Rd
Phra Th
oen
F
Damrong
Tanao
ada n
N10 F Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
Nai Rm
Wat
d
Rachin
Ratch
Mount
Atsadang Rd
N9
Wat Phra Muang Rd Bamru
Bamrung
i
F ng
7 Kaeo Kanlayana Mua
Maitri Rd start ng Rd
F
Maha
Rd
6
Sanam
Fuang Nakorn
Grand
rat Rd
Rd
N8 Palace Cha
F Charoen Krung Rd oK
Arun
ham Luang Rd
Chai
rin Phiphit Rd ra T
Mait
k
R F Ch hum R
Rd
Rd
Rd
rich
Rd
aro d
Mo Rd
d
t
Ban
Triphet
en
wa
5
it Rd
et
Ya
So Kr
kra
N7 Chakra
ph
un
ow
iW
Rd Wat Arun phet
ra
gR
ak
an
ar
F Rd
m
ak
(The Temple d
Ch
Doe
at
Saph it 1 R
Ch
g an P
Rd
Wan
of Dawn)
F 4 hut R
d CHINATOWN IV ama
Rd
d
N6 F
tR
Charo
3 Son
wa
Its
o B ok
gwa
e
ridg
Kla hra P
Sa
aban t Rd
ara
Chao P
i
k Ya
Thets 1 Rd h r ay
en K
ng
ph
aR
P
Sai
So
2 ive
a
g ko
r
p
r
ung
n N5
Thetsaba F
an
Rd i 2 Rd
Sa
ng B
Rd
F
d
Som
iR
Khlo
det
Ma
C hao
KHLONG SAN Pray
g
N4
ian
a Rd F
Ch
0 1/2 mi
Itsar
apha
p Rd a Rd
0 0.5 km Lad Y F N3
Soi 3 F
Inthraraph Rd
en Rat
1 Mandarinita
Charoen Nakhon Rd
k Rd
Oriental 9 Museum of Charo N2
Forensic Science F F
2 Wat Prayurawongsawat
Wongwian Yai Soi 7
Soi 10
Railway Station 10 Royal Barges Museum Soi 9 1
3 Santa Cruz Church start
11 Phra Sumen FortSoi 14
4 Wichai Prasit Fort F
F
Wongwian 12
3 Suan Santichai Prakarn
Yai N1
5 Wat Arun S S Krung F
13 Nonthaburi Thonb
6 Nimit
The Grand Palace Krung Thon Buri F
Pho k Rd uri Rd
hapSru Rakhang 14 Bang Kwang Prison S
Ra7tc Wat Saphan
15 Ko Kret Taksin
8 Thammasat University
57
The riverside terrace at the Mandarin Oriental is one of the most serene places in the
city to relax and take in the views.
58
Travel Tip
You can get off the express boat
and walk around ❷, ❸, ❹ and ❺
by changing at Rajinee pier (N7)
and taking a small cross-river boat
to Wat Arun for just 3.5 baht. It’s an
interesting walk south from Wat
Arun, taking you through modest
backstreets. You will first pass Wat
The dazzling white chedi of Wat Prayura Kanlayanamit with its 15m-high
Wonsawat. Buddha. Then, take the waterfront
boardwalk towards Santa Cruz
present church was constructed in Church. Hidden from view from the
1910 and has a beautiful Italian-style river, there’s a small red Chinese
ceiling. Church services are held on temple called Wat Sanjaomaegua-
Sundays. 30 min. 112 Thetsaban nim. Built in the 18th century, it
N
Sai I Rd, Thonburi. ☎ 02 466 0347 or shares Buddhist, Taoist, and
02 472 0153 4. Daily 5:30–8:30am & Confucianist influences. There are
6–8pm. Ferry: Rajinee pier (N7). return boats to Rajinee from Wat
Kanlayanamit pier.
❹ Wichai Prasit Fort. This was
built during the reign of Narai the
Great (1656–1688) to protect the city Santa Cruz Church.
from Burmese invaders. One hun-
dred years later, after repulsing the
Burmese, King Taksin built the Wang
Derm Palace in the same compound
when he chose Thonburi (the town
west of the river) as his capital. Now-
adays the Thai navy fires the cannon
from the fort to celebrate special
ceremonies. It is the naval banner
you can see on the flagpole on top
of the fort. Wang Derm Palace is
open to the public, but the fort is
not. 30 min. 2 Royal Navy Head-
N
quarters, Phra Ratcha Wang Derm,
Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi. ☎ 02 475
4117 or 02 466 9355. Admission 50
baht. Daily 8:30am–5pm. Ferry:
Rajinee pier (N7).
59
confluence of the river and Bangl- from Nonthaburi Pier or just take
amphu Canal, which carves an arc another express boat heading
around the Old City, exiting further south. Ferry: Nonthaburi pier (N30).
south at Memorial Bridge. With the
⓮ Bang Kwang Prison. The noto-
river to the west, this canal effec-
rious “Bangkok Hilton” hosts hun-
tively makes Rattanakosin an island.
dreds of foreign inmates, usually
Cnr Phra Arthit & Phra Sumeru rds.
incarcerated for drug offences.
Daily 8am–8pm. Ferry: Phra Arthit
Read Australian prisoner Warren
pier (N13).
Fellows’s “The Damage Done” for
a chilling insight into prison life
12 Suan Santichai Prakarn. here. It is not uncommon for tour-
This is a pleasant park to stretch ists to visit their compatriots and
your legs or relax and have a picnic. take them some food, toiletries,
There are plenty of vendors around and magazines. 1 Nonthaburi Rd.
selling snacks and soft drinks. Phra ☎ 02 525 0484. Mon–Fri 9:30–
Arthit Rd. Ferry: Phra Arthit pier 11:30am & 1:30–2:30pm. Ferry:
(N13). $. Nonthaburi pier (N30).
⓯ ★★★ Ko Kret. This enchant-
ing little island on the river is home
⓭ Nonthaburi. Next you go to hundreds of Mon—an ethnic
under the impressive Rama VIII group indigenous to Myanmar.
Bridge (which looks like a giant Some islanders grow lychees and
golden harp lying on its side) and durian in large orchards on the
start heading northeast. You’ll pass southern part of Ko Kret. However,
the Church of Holy Conception and the most interesting and distinctive
St Francis Xavier Church, both fur- occupation of the Mon islanders is
ther testaments to the prominent pottery-making. Perhaps 20 to 25
role of missionaries in 18th- and families maintain small factories
19th-century Thailand. You’ll notice where they sculpt red clay and fire
that the river widens and becomes earthenware in kilns, producing
more industrial. You’ll pass a jetty flowerpots, mortars, and larger
where old barges are moored, the water urns. The finished products
Singha beer factory, and the Bang have a red-black glaze; visitors are
Kwang Chinese temple just before welcome to watch the potters and
you pull into Nonthaburi Pier. Now buy souvenirs. You can hire a bicycle
you have to decide whether to here and ride around the island.
carry on to ⓮ and ⓯ or call it a
day. You can get taxis back to town
N 30 min. Ferry: Pak Kret pier (N33).
62
The Best Neighborhood Tours
Saranrom
g
Palace
R
Luan
g Rd
d Wat
hak
ang R Charoen Krung Rd Thepsirin
C
Thai W
Ong An
cha
Wat Pho Cha
ra
a
Rd
Map Area oK
Rd
h
(Reclining Buddha ham
Wo
a
Luang Rd
Chalermkrung
hai
Yom rop
Temple)
M
ma Rd
Khlong i Rd
aC
Royal Theatre ra T
hl
sem
Mait
khu
Burapha
Phra Phitak Rd m Rd
bP
mR
rich
d
a
Phah
urat d
aR
Phl
Rd Yao
Rd
it Rd
d
d
ap
war
4 at
on
kR
Su
nR
ha
Rd ha
ngk
Rd
Ban Mo Rd
ap
ha
Chinatown
Rd
Hindu 5
Ma
Krung Kase
Huai Choi
ung Krung Ka
3 tr
Ma
Temple 9 Mit
Kanh Temple
Triphet
CHINATOWN
g Rd
Ph Ph
1 Wat Rajaburana 7 an o Ch
d
6 it R 8
d ar
at
2
tR
g
2 Red Chinese Temple Phra Buddha 10 oen
K
he
raw
Khlong Phad
1
Rong Muan
Yodfa Mon.
Rd
kk
run
Klan
rap
Mait
3 Standard Sweets a 11
k
So gR
Ch d Soi Klong
Rd
rich
iW
ha
& Restaurant
C
an Tom
ng
Saph Hua
it
d
it Rd
wo
Anu Yao
4 Pahurat Cloth Market Phut an
Rd N6 won R war Ra Lamphong
cha
ap at
1
F
start Rd g ph R ma Railway
tR
5 d
i
Sampeng Lane
Rat
rial
IV
rnu
e
n Station
ha Rd
Itsa
ge
d
Wa 6 ap
w
t Wat Chakkrawat
R
So
rid
Bridg
Memo
Ka Son
Yao
at
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F
P
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nl7
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Sa
Ratchawongse 12 13 d
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Hotel it R
ng
(N5) im
Santa Cruz M
So
d finish Tra
Chaw Rung Reung
8 Convent i1R Hua
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9 Leng Noi
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10 Leng Buai Ia Shrine oP
11 Yaowarat Road h ra Soi 29
Krun
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12 ThianThFa Foundation
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Ri
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Soi 31
r
M MRT subway
13 The GoldenSchoolBuddha
Mah a Phrutharam Rd
0 0.25 km
63
Chinatown
heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown. It’s where two great cultures,
Chinese and Indian, meet in harmony with an explosion of colors,
smells, and sights. Stroll through the bustling backstreets into the
mystic temples and hidden shrines, and experience the lively ban-
ter of the marketplaces. Nothing here is polished for the tourist’s
benefit. I hope this walk will give you an insight into the real people
of Bangkok, their rituals, idiosyncrasies, and hard-working lifestyles.
START: Express boat to Memorial Bridge pier (Saphan Phut).
Chinatown
11 ★ Yaowarat Road. There
people buying what looks like
are several modest diners at the
Monopoly money, which is then
corner of Yaowarat and Plaengnarm
burned as an offering on the basis
roads serving bird’s nest and shark’s
that they can take the money with
fin soup (although animal rights
them into their next lives. This tem-
activists won’t thank you). If you feel
ple is especially popular at Chinese
like a stop, why not just choose a
New Year (January to February).
steaming bowl of noodles? On the
N 30 min. 423 Charoen Krung Rd.
Daily 6am–6pm.
main street of Chinatown you are
greeted by large signs in Chinese
❿ Leng Buai Ia Shrine. With characters hanging over the street.
pungent whiffs of raw meat, fish, As you cruise down the broad ave-
spices, and roasted chestnuts at nue, you’ll pass gold retailers and
every turn, Itsarnuphap Road is a Chinese medicine shops. $.
bustling alleyway straight out of a
Hollywood set. Just 100m or so on
the left, tucked quietly behind the
marketplace, is a humble wee Chi- ⓬ ★ Thian Fa Foundation. You
nese temple. This temple is are welcome to take a peek inside
thought to be the oldest shrine in this Chinese medicine hospital,
Thailand, dating back to 1658. It is which was founded in 1902. The
designed in Tae Chew style, which treatment center, not surprisingly,
is Fujian, the origin of many of has a shrine where patients pray for
Bangkok’s Chinese immigrants. recovery. If you would like to say a
prayer for good health—for your-
N 15 min. Itsarnuphap Rd. Daily
7am–5pm. self or for someone else—light an
Leng Buai la Shrine, thought to be the oldest shrine in Thailand, is tucked away off
Itsarnuphap Road.
66
The Best Neighborhood Tours
Silk is a popular gift, like these silk suits from Jim Thompson.
vit 7
Map
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69
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Brown’s 16 itak Rd Lotus Arts de Vivre 11 Marketen Ra14
Charo N2
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Central Chidlom 18 Maharat Road 4 Phahurat Market 6 F
KHLONG SAN Market 1910
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Railway Station Sampeng Soi Lane
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Chatuchak Market 28 Niks/Nava Wongwian
Import N1 F
Export 13Yai Saphan Phut
Fotofile 27 S
House of Chao 12 Night SBazaar 7
Krung Th9onburi 14
Old Maps & Prints F
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Jim Thompson Pantip Plaza 29 Uthai’s Gems 17 Saphan
Thai Silk 15 Passport Books 4 Zen 21 Taksin
www.ebook3000.com
71
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72
Bangkok Shopping A to Z
The Best Shopping
Bangkok Shopping A to Z
com. AE, MC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain:
Phrom Phong. Map p 69.
Cameras
Fotofile SIAM This is the best
camera shop in Bangkok and the
choice of professional photogra-
phers. They stock an extensive
Kinokuniya bookstore.
range of equipment and the staff is
very knowledgeable and helpful.
secondhand books in various
444 MBK Center 1st, 3rd, and 5th
languages at reasonable prices.
floors, Phayatai Rd. ☎ 02 620 9200.
593–595 Sukhumvit Rd (between
www.fotofile.net. Nearest BTS Sky-
Soi 33 & Soi 35). ☎ 02 258 0221.
Train: National Stadium. Map p 70.
No credit cards. BTS SkyTrain
station: Phrom Phong. Map p 69.
Department Stores &
★ Kinokuniya SUKHUMVIT This Shopping Centers
is my favorite store for browsing. Central Chidlom PATHUM-
You can find almost everything WAN Seven air-conditioned sto-
here: all the latest releases, maps, ries of cosmetics, international
guides, and books on Thailand. fashion, and clothing stores, as well
There’s also a branch at Isetan as children’s toys, electronics,
CentralWorld and Siam Paragon. supermarkets, restaurants, and
3rd floor, EmQuartier Shopping much more. 1027 Ploenchit Rd.
Complex, 689 Sukhumvit Rd.
★ CentralWorld PATHUM-
WAN Billed as the largest lifestyle
shopping destination in Asia, this
mammoth mall includes depart-
ment stores, designer boutiques, a
food court, dozens of restaurants,
cinemas, and a kids’ entertainment
zone. Ratchadamri Rd. ☎ 02 635
1111. www.centralworld.co.th. AE,
DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Chid Lom.
Map p 70.
EM District SUKHUMVIT Situ-
ated on the side of Phrom Pong
BTS station, the EM District
includes The Emporium shopping
mall, and the brand new EMQuart-
ier mall where you will find high-
end brands such as Jimmy Choo
and Valentino, an excellent
75
features luxe fashion, fragrances, Rama I. ☎ 02 690 1000. AE, DC,
Bangkok Shopping A to Z
jewelry, and housewares. There’s MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Siam.
also a Jim Thompson outlet, cafes, Map p 70.
restaurants, and a supermarket.
Terminal 21 SUKHUMVIT An
Located within CentralWorld. 4/1–2
airport-themed shopping experi-
Rajdamri Rd. ☎ 02 255 9898 9. AE,
ence with zones for London, Rome,
DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Chit Lom.
Tokyo, and San Francisco and doz-
Map p 70.
ens of small shops run by local
Robinson SUKHUMVIT Rather designers. The mall pulls in a young
than designer gear, Robinson pulls and trendy crowd. It has direct
in shoppers for its reliable local access from the BTS SkyTrain sta-
brands and cheaper prices. There tion. 288 Sukhumvit Soi 19. ☎ 02
are also outlets on Charoen Krung 651 2888. www.terminal21.co.th. AE,
Road, Rama 9, and Seacon Square. DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Asoke or
259 Sukhumvit Rd (between Soi 17 & MRT subway: Sukhumvit.
Soi 19). ☎ 02 651 1533. AE, DC,
Zen PATHUMWAM Specializing
MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Asok or MRT
in women’s stores, this is where
subway Sukhumvit. Map p 69.
you’ll find local and international
★★ Siam Paragon labels at cheaper prices. Located
PATHUMWAN The trendiest within CentralWorld, 4/1–2 Ratchad-
place to be seen is this luxurious amri Rd. ☎ 02 255 9669. AE, DC,
mega-complex. It features über- MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Chit Lom.
chic fashion stores, perfumeries, Map p 70.
Starbucks, gourmet cafes, and
more. Note that there are cinemas Electronics
and kids’ entertainment on the top Pantip Plaza PATHUMWAN Not
floor and Siam Ocean World is where I would personally hang out
downstairs—great for those who at weekends, but if you love elec-
are unwilling to shop for hours. tronics and computers, this will be
Arguably Bangkok’s hippest mall, many spend the entire day at Siam Paragon, shop-
ping, eating, and seeing all its sights.
76
Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 24.
The Best Shopping
☎ 02 664 8000 ext. 1533. AE, DC,
MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Phrom Phong.
Map p 69.
Fashion
Brown’s LUMPHINI Hallelujah!
A full range of “outsize” clothing
for women who find Thai sizes too
petite. Brown’s also has an outlet at
Emporium. 1st floor, U Chia-Liang
Building, Rama IV Rd, opp. Lumphini
Park. ☎ 02 632 4424. AE, DC, MC,
V. BTS SkyTrain: Sala Daeng or MRT
subway: Silom. Map p 70.
Bangkok Shopping A to Z
VAT Refunds
As a tourist, you can get 7% of the cost of your purchases
refunded at customs when you are leaving Thailand. But you have
to jump through a few hurdles: the refund only applies at shops
that have “VAT refund for tourists” signs; each purchase must
cost more than 2000 baht and the total must be more than 5000
baht. You must present your passport, fill in a VAT refund form
with the sales assistant, and show your goods to officials at the
airport.
Handicrafts Markets
★ Narai Phand PRATUNAM Asiatique An extremely popular
You can find an eclectic variety of open air shopping center on the
good-quality handicrafts and arti- banks of the Chao Phraya. Spend a
facts, perfect to take home to night browsing 1,500 shops with
friends and family. 7th floor, Presi- fashions and accessories, gifts,
dent Tower (Inter-Continental Hotel), crafts, retro homewares, and more.
973 Ploenchit Rd. ☎ 02 656 0398 9 There are also many restaurants,
or 02 656 0400. www.naraiphand. bars, a ferris wheel, and a theater
com. AE, DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: with ladyboy cabaret. 2194 Charoen-
Chit Lom. Map p 70. krung Rd, Bangkok. ☎ 02 108 4488.
www.thaiasiatique.com. Daily 5pm–
Jewelry & Gems midnight. BTS SkyTrain: Saphan Thak-
Uthai’s Gems PLOENCHIT Due sin then free shuttle boat.
to the dark nature of this business, I
★★★ Chatuchak Market
am loath to recommend tourists to
the seedy world of gemstones. CHATUCHAK Perhaps half a mil-
However, Uthai appears to be the lion people visit this market every
most honest broker in Bangkok, and weekend. With 15,000 stalls, you
can custom design jewelry for you can expect to find everything—
with rubies, sapphires, and emer- from clothes, plants, and household
alds. 28/7 Soi Ruam Rudi, Ploenchit goods to live snakes, Buddhist
Rd. ☎ 02 253 8582. AE, MC, V. BTS
antiques, herbal medicines, CDs,
SkyTrain: Ploen Chit. Map p 70.
and hill-tribe handicrafts. Phahonyo-
thin Rd. No credit cards. BTS Sky-
Maps Train: Mo Chit or MRT subway:
★ Old Maps & Prints Kamphaeng Phet. Map p 70.
BANGRAK I love this little cubby- ★ Khao San Road BANGLAM-
hole; it stocks some great old maps PHU It’s hippy heaven on Bang-
of Thailand and Asia, navigational kok’s backpacker boulevard. Trendy
charts, and engravings. Heaven for T-shirts, floppy hats, baggy pants,
map lovers! 4th floor, River City secondhand books, cheap jewelery,
Complex, Sri Phaya Pier, Yotha Rd. CDs, fake student cards, and some
☎ 02 237 0077 8. www.classicmaps. of the best wee souvenirs you can
com. AE, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: buy for less than 100 baht. Khao San
Saphan Taksin. Map p 70. Rd. No credit cards. Nearest ferry:
Phra Athit. No metro. Map p 70.
78
The Best Shopping
Bangkok Shopping A to Z
Handcrafted jewelry and housewares at Lotus Arts de Vivre.
Bargaining
Haggling is fun! It’s an acceptable part of Thai culture, so don’t
take it as an affront. Smile and be playful. My personal tip is not to
start haggling until you are sure you want to buy something, other-
wise the canny market vendors will simply throw an inflated price at
you to get a reaction. “What?” you scream. “500 baht just for this?”
“Okay,” mellows the salesperson. “So, how much do you want to
pay?” And next thing you know you are haggling for an Akha hill-
tribe hat that you will never wear. Remember: you can bargain at any
outdoor market or Chatuchak, but not in department stores.
80
The Best Shopping
The Conscientious Shopper
Many visitors to the Land of Smiles worry how much blood,
sweat and tears go into the making of the cut-price clothes and handi-
crafts they buy. Some believe Bangkok’s suburbs to be dark slums
where tiny orphans toil in sweatshops night and day. In fact, such a
Dickensian scenario is rarely reported in Thailand nowadays, but
there’s no 100% guarantee. The copyright laws are not enforced, so
you will come across counterfeit DVDs, sunglasses, designer hand-
bags, and much more at marketplaces. That is not to say they’re poor
quality—many of the fake items are excellent and will last years—but
of course if it’s cut-price and bootlegged, it’s made by lowly paid fac-
tory workers. Tailors that offer made-to-measure suits will often send
the measurements to factories to make them. Many factory workers
are Burmese migrants, but a few are children.
If you want to guarantee that your purchases help the people who
make the products, look out for OTOP or Royal Project signs.
OTOP—One Tambon (village), One Product—is a system of encour-
aging rural villages to undertake community projects producing
handicrafts, furniture, woodcrafts, lacquerware, ceramics, candles,
and more. Profits from sales return to the respective villages. Royal
Projects mainly center on agriculture. Hill-tribe villages in northern
Thailand have been pushed to abandon opium production in favor of
growing coffee, strawberries, and other organic fruit and vegetables.
These cooperative projects are sanctioned by the Thai royal family.
Lumphini Park
The Great Outdoors
LINE
Royal Bangkok
mri Rd
M
Sportsclub
AIN – SILO
Map
Area
Ratchada
Suan
on
BTS SK YTR
Soi Tons
Soi Lang
Sarasin Rd
2E
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South Lumphini
BTS Skytrain
Transfer 0 1/4 mi
Walking path
0 0.25 km
Previous page: Geese shaped paddleboats wait for rowers at Lumphini Park.
83
Lumphini Park
shopping districts, Lumphini Park is where hundreds of Bangkokians
seek refuge every day. It’s a hive of activity with Tai Chi, aerobics,
bodybuilding, and jogging all happening first thing in the morning.
In the evening, office workers shed their ties and don shorts to play
takraw—a Thai version of foot-tennis with a rattan ball—and work-
out at mass aerobics sessions, while children go boating on the lake
and young lovers stroll hand-in-hand. In the cooler months of
November to February, you can also listen to the Bangkok Sym-
phony Orchestra at the Sunday evening “Concert in the Park.” This
charming park, often referred to as the “Lungs of Bangkok,’ is open
every day from 4am to 9pm. START: Metro to Silom.
Anyone, tourists included, can join the daily aerobics classes at Lumphini Park.
Lumphini Park
Bangkok’s ‘Green Lung’
Lumphini Park truly is one of the few outdoor places in Bangkok
where it is possible to escape the noise and traffic of the city. You
can rent a rowboat to paddle around the lake, or simply find a spot
to yourself and relax before the heat of the day kicks in. On Satur-
day and Sunday evenings you can enjoy a pleasant stroll in the park
before heading for street food and nightlife on Silom Road and
Patpong.
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87
Dusit Park
attraction. The gardens are delightful, the architecture sublime.
Inspired by his travels to Europe, King Chulalongkorn (also known
as King Rama V; 1868–1910) designed Dusit Park and ordered that
manicured gardens and stately homes be built within its grounds.
He then moved his entire family there from the Grand Palace.
Today, the Thai king lives at Chitralada Palace, next to Dusit Park.
Visitors have to pay 100 baht (50 baht for kids) to enter the park,
which includes admission to the stately attractions within. However,
if you’re canny, you’ll visit the Grand Palace first, keep the ticket
and use it to get free admission to Dusit Park and its sights. Please
note that if you wish to visit Vimanmek Palace, you have to wear
long sleeves and no shorts or skirts above the knees. Nearest BTS
SkyTrain: Phaya Thai then a taxi. Nearest ferry: Thawhet N15 START: Express
boat to Tha Thewet pier. Walk/taxi to junction of Ratchadamnoen Road
and Sri Ayutthaya Road.
❾ ★ Ananta Samakkorn
royal family.
N 30 min. Tues–Sun, Throne Hall. This exquisite mar-
9:30am–4:30pm. Last ticket, 3:15pm.
ble hall was built in Italian Renais-
❻ Ancient Cloth & Silk sance style by the king in 1907 to
Museum. If you have time, take a receive foreign dignitaries. Check
quick stroll around this charming out the frescoes on the domed ceil-
French-style building and see ing depicting the succession of
different silks and textiles from Thai kings. Admission 150 baht.
around Thailand, and the robes of ☎ 02 283 9411. www.artsofthe
kings Rama IV and V. Tues–Sunday, kingdom.com. Daily 10am–5pm.
9:30am–4:30pm. Last ticket, 3:15pm. Tickets until 4:20pm. N
15 min. •
N 15 min.
Children love visiting the giraffes at
❼ Royal Elephant Museum. Dusit Zoo.
Formerly a stable for three albino
elephants, this small exhibition tells
the tales and superstitions regarding
elephants in Thailand, especially
white elephants, which are consid-
ered holy and must be presented to
the king. Tues–Sun, 9:30am–4:30pm.
Last ticket, 3:15pm. N 30 min.
❽ ★★ Dusit Zoo. Just east
of Dusit Park, with an entrance to
the north, is Thailand’s best zoo.
Over 300 species of animal live
here. Avoid visiting on weekends—
it gets crowded. ☎ 02 281 2000.
www.dusitzoo.org. Daily 8am–6pm.
N 2 hr. See p 43, bullet ❻.
6 The Best
Dining
90
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91
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15
Harmonique 15 Scoozi 24 F
KHLONG F
Hemlock 2 Shangarila Soi 7
Restaurant 10
SAN Soi 10
Hua Seng Hong 11 Soi 9 F 16
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In Love 8 Railway Station Sirocco 19 Soi 14 14 N1
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Indian Hut 17 Somboon Seafood
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23
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Rd Tha
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ha34 Thip Samai 7 Thon Buri
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S
Le Bouchon 29 Thiptara 14 Saphan
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Le Normandie 16 22 Kitchen & Bar 31
93
Current Heading
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Sanam Pao S
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M ao
MRT subway
Bangkok 1Dining
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Wat
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Soi Chitl
Maha Phruthar a m Rd
Stadium Siam
2nd Sta
S S
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MBK
Rama VI
SIAM SQUARE S Rd
Soi Chulalo
Rd
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PATHUMWAN Shrine
Soi Chulal
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Thong
Rd
33
Hua Charoen Muang Rd
Rd
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Soi Chulal
S
Railway Chulalongkorn Royal Bangkok
Suan
Banthat
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Soi Tonson
M Stadium
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
Phayathai
Henri Dunant
Hua
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Lamphong
Ram
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Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
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Witthayu
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Si Phra Park
PATPONG
Sap
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94
Bangkok Dining A to Z
The Best Dining
Bangkok Dining A to Z
You’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Rome at Appia, an Italian trattoria.
Street Stalls?
Travellers love to scare each other with ghastly tales of exotic
street food that crawled off the plate or that left a customer in a
hotel toilet for 2 weeks. The truth is there’s not much wrong with
Bangkok’s street fare. It’s nearly always hygienic, cheap, and pretty
darn tasty. You don’t have to walk far in this city before your senses
get hit by sizzling spices, garlic, ginger, barbecued pork, and
noodles. Most Bangkokians gather for street food with friends and
colleagues at lunchtime and after work. You should pull up a plastic
stool and give it a go!
96
The Best Dining
Bangkok Dining A to Z
Sukhumvit. Map p 91. Train: Chong Nonsi or Surasak.
Map p 92.
★★ The Cedar SUKHUMVIT
LEBANESE A renowned Middle ★ Deck by the River RATTANA-
Eastern restaurant, The Cedar has KOSIN THAI/INTERNATIONAL
been around for some 30 years. With fresh, healthy Thai fare and a
The restaurant’s interior is designed few western dishes, the Deck offers
like a large Bedouin tent—quite intimate dining on an open-air
funky. The menu offers solid wooden terrace. Go at sunset to
Lebanese favorites such as falafel, gaze at the changing hues of Wat
humus, kebabs, and racks of lamb, Arun, the Temple of Dawn. Arun Res-
but also has some Greek dishes— idence, 36–38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yooung,
dolmades, feta, and moussaka. 6/1 Maharaj Rd. ☎ 02 221 9158. www.
Soi 49/9, Sukhumvit Rd, Klong Toey. arunresidence.com. Meals 800–1400
☎ 02 391 4482. www.thecedar.20m. baht. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
com. Meals 600–800 baht. AE, DC, daily. No SkyTrain or MRT. Ferry: Tha
MC, V. Dinner daily. BTS SkyTrain: Tien pier (N8) Map p 92.
Phrom Phong. Map p 91.
★ Dosa King SUKHUMVIT INDIAN/
Chennai Kitchen BANGRAK VEGETARIAN A small air-condi-
INDIAN This is about as authentic tioned diner that caters to aficiona-
as Indian food gets. Forget the dos of Indian cuisine (and vegans)
creamy kormas served in the U.S. with authentic dishes from around the
and Britain. This is natural spiced country. I recommend the paneer
southern Indian fare, which can be tikka, the bhindi do piazza, and, of
served on a banana leaf and course, the Punjabi dosa. 153/7 Soi
scooped up with handfuls of roti 11/1, Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 651 1700.
and naan. And it’s near the Hindu www.dosaking.net. Meals 500 baht.
temple. 10 Pan Rd, Silom. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. BTS
☎ 02 234 1266. Meals 100 baht. No SkyTrain: Nana. Map p 91.
Harmonique BANGRAK
THAI Mouthwatering seafood by
the riverfront. Unfortunately, it’s
not well known and quite hard to
find. Look for the big banyan
tree by an old colonial mansion.
99
Bangkok Dining A to Z
Anyone for Cricket?
At many marketplaces or along
Sukhumvit and Khao San roads
you may well encounter vendors
offering deep-fried grasshop-
pers, grubs, scorpions, and bee-
tles. In northeastern Thailand
they are considered a good
source of protein—and they
don’t taste that bad. If you want
to take the plunge, I recommend
the deep-fried crickets—they’re
just like crunchy, crispy chicken
wings.
Fried crickets and other insects at a
street stall.
Bangkok Dining A to Z
Riverside dining is just one of the lures at La Normandie.
Bangkok Dining A to Z
the Chao Phraya River? And an (N13). Map p 92.
excellent dinner it is, too. The
★ Mezzaluna BANGRAK
barge picks up diners at Thaksin
ECLECTIC FINE DINING Chef
pier and the Anatara; call to
Ryuki Kawasaki’s recipes are ele-
reserve. Anantara Riverside Bangkok
gant, complex, and visually stun-
Resort, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd,
ning. A favorite: Nova Scotia
Thonburi. ☎ 02 476 0022. www.
lobster glazed in lobster jus with
bangkok-riverside.anantara.com. Set
sea urchin, heart of palm, corn
menu 1990 baht (not including wine/
puree, bisque jelly, popcorn foam,
drinks). AE, DC, MC, V. Cruises leave
and curry oil. There’s also a primo
the Anantara at 7pm & Taksin pier at
selection of caviar and oysters. The
7:30pm daily. BTS SkyTrain: Saphan
restaurant’s high ceilings allow for
Taksin. Map p 92.
panoramic views across Bangkok,
★ May Kaidee BANGLAMPHU but unlike its brothers in the Tower
VEGETARIAN Although tucked Club at Lebua, Breeze, and Sirocco,
down an alley, everyone knows smil- this is fine dining indoors, so you
ing May and her excellent vegetar- don’t get quite the same feeling of
ian/vegan diner with lots of coconut vertigo. Tower Club at Lebua, 1055
curries and sour soups to choose Silom Rd, cnr Charoen Krung Rd.
from. May offers a Thai vegetarian ☎ 02 624 9555. www.lebua.com/
cooking school for foreigners. mezzaluna. Meals 2000–2500 baht.
There’s also a branch at 33 Samsen AE, DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Saphan
Road. Behind Burger King, Tanao Rd. Taksin. Map p 92.
☎ 086 398 4808. www.maykaidee. ★ Nahm SATHORN THAI Aussie
com. Dishes from 100 baht. No credit
chef David Thompson’s take on
cards. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily.
May Kaidee in traditional Thai dress at one of her famed cooking classes.
104
Bangkok Dining A to Z
Thai Dining Etiquette
Thai people have high standards of hygiene and politeness. A
few rules of thumb:
• Several dishes are ordered together and placed in the center
of the table. It is common for everyone tucks in with their own
spoon and fork but in posher restaurants there is more likely to
be a serving spoon in each dish.
• Chopsticks are used in Chinese restaurants or to eat noodles;
plain rice and Thai food is eaten with a spoon and fork; only
sticky rice is eaten with your hand.
• If you invite others to dinner, it will probably be assumed that
you are paying. In a small group, the most senior person nor-
mally picks up the tab.
• Tipping is not obligatory. Most people will leave a small tip
after a large meal but not for cheap dishes such as noodles.
Bangkok Dining A to Z
Barbecued salmon on pressed potato with tomato salsa at 22 Kitchen.
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Rd
ngk
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Shrine 19
PATHUMWAN
Soi Chulal
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Thong
Rd
Lamphong Ratchadamri
Soi Chulal
S
Railway Chulalongkorn
Suan
Banthat
University
INE
Sports Club
Rd
M Stadium
Soi Lang
S I L OM L
Phayathai
Henri Dunant
Hua
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Ram
hada
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Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
Maha Na
Soi Kaeo Fa
Witthayu
Ratc
Sam Yan
M
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k h o n Rd
Si Phra Park
Sap
Charoen
BANGRAK 12
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PATPONG S
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0 1/2 mi
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Non
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si
The Best Nightlife
114
vit 3
5
2
vit 7
13
Map
11
Ploench
S it Rd
oi Asoke
Soi Suk
hu Area
Chit Lom S 3 mvit 31
Soi Sukhum
Phloenchit
Soi Sukhumvit
Soi Sukhumvit 15
4
Soi Sukhum
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WATTHANA
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S
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Soi Sukhum
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Rudi
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Soi Sukhumvit 19
Su 8
Soi Lang
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Soi Tonson
um
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Soi Ruam
Soi Sukhumvit 23
vit Soi Phrom Ch
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Sukhumvit Soi Phro
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Soi Sukhumvit 4
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Transfer
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Phrom
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Soi Sukhumvit 16
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Benjasiri Phong
Soi Sukhumvit 20
khumvi
S 14
Park
Soi
umvi
Soi Suk
Soi 21
Sukhumvit 47
Benjakiti 12
Bull’s Head & Angus Nest 2
Soi Sukh
SU
Ratchad
Soi Sukhumvit 53
Steakhouse 10 Park KH
UM 13
4
The Office Bar & Grill 9
Soi Plukchit 1
Soi Sukhumvit 51
VIT Su
Sukhumvit Road Nightlife
VR
d Sing2 Sing Theater 12
Soi Rd
aphisek Rd
Soi Sukhumvit 22
Suk
S
Soi Sukh
S
115
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z
Bars & Pubs best Irish pub has all the usual
Black Swan SUKHUM- Guinness and Kilkenny, shamrocks,
VIT Recently relocated but still in and leprechauns you would expect,
the same area, this British pub is as but what sets it apart is its playful
authentic as you can get, and is your ambience. It’s like a homecoming,
place if you’re homesick for a full even if you’re not Irish. Soi 33/1
English breakfast, roast dinners, fish Sukhumvit Road. ☎ 02 204 1841.
and chips, Guinness and John Smith www.thedublinerbangkok.com. BTS
bitter. The Black Swan is especially SkyTrain: Phrom Phong Map p 114.
popular for live sports on the plasma.
★ Flann O’Brien’s
Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 229
SILOM Conveniently located right
4542. blackswanbangkok.com. BTS
next to a SkyTrain station, this
SkyTrain: Asoke or MRT subway:
friendly pub is popular with expats
Sukhumvit. Map p 114.
and locals. There’s a good menu of
Bull’s Head & Angus Steak- British fare and Thai favorites,
house SUKHUMVIT This is a imported beers, and live music
boisterous British pub with comedy most nights. 62/1-4 Silom Rd, ☎ 02
nights, quizzes, club meetings, and 632 7518. www.flann-obriens.com.
raucous behavior by Bangkok BTS SkyTrain: Sala Daeng or MRT
expats. The Bull’s Head & Angus subway: Silom.
Steakhouse offers a selection of
★★ Iron Fairies THONG
British and Irish ales and steak pies
LOR Expats, Thai hi-so and tour-
with chips. 595/10–11 Sukhumvit Rd,
ists hang out in this fantasy world of
Soi 33. ☎ 02 259 4444/02 261 7747.
a Dickensian factory-themed shop-
www.greatbritishpub.com. Metro:
house. It’s one of the city’s most
Phrom Phong. Map p 114.
creative places to enjoy food and
Cheap Charlie’s SUKHUM- drink. 404 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong
VIT An institution in Bangkok! As Lor) Bangkok. BTS SkyTrain: Thong
the name suggests, Cheap Charlie’s Lor. www.theironfairies.com.
is an unpretentious watering hole— ☎ 02-714-8875.
nay, wooden shack—where travelers
Molly Malone’s BANGRAK For
and expats come to drink the night
an Irish pub it’s a bit brightly lit and
away. Oh, and it’s cheap. 2/7 Soi 11,
feels like a franchise. Nonetheless,
Sukhumvit Rd. BTS SkyTrain: Nana.
you get a friendly crowd in night
Map p 114.
after night and all the accouter-
Deep BANGLAMPHU For the ments you would expect—Sunday
young and reckless, this is a spot to lunches, happy hour (4 to 7pm
wrap up a good night out. Deep is daily), pool sharks, live music, and,
always busy and, oft times, sweaty. of course, Guinness on tap. 1/5–6
It’s dark and seedy, but always full Convent Rd (behind Silom Rd).
of characters and loud pounding ☎ 02 266 7160. www.mollymalones
beats. 329/1–2 Rambutri Rd. bangkok.com. BTS SkyTrain:
☎ 02 629 3360. No SkyTrain or Sala Daeng or MRT subway: Silom.
MRT. Map p 112. Map p 112.
restaurant sits on the rooftop of the haunt where you can bop around
61-storey Banyan Tree. The views your table with whisky sets, snacks,
are spectacular, so cocktails or and loud pop tunes. On hot nights
champagne at sunset are a must. it catches sweet breezes from the
Dress smartly; don’t go if it’s rain- river. Trok Krai, Mahachak Rd.
ing. The Banyan Tree, 21/100 South ☎ 02 223 7686. No metro. Ferry:
Sathorn Rd, Silom. ☎ 02 679 1200. Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) N6.
www.banyantree.com. MRT subway: Map p 112.
Lumphini. Map p 112.
★★ Nest SUKHUMVIT For a pri-
Nang Nual Riverside Pub vate group of revelers, this is the
CHINATOWN A Chinese-Thai perfect rendezvous. An elegant
Bring a group of friends so you can take over one of the couches at Nest.
117
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z
The aptly named—and quite chic—Skybar is literal a highlight of Bangkok’s nightlife scene.
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z
Silom. Boutique PATHUMWAN After 3
decades, Bangkok’s legendary
Live Music jazz venue has relocated from Lum-
★★★ Ad Here the 13th phini to Banglumphu. As well as
BANGLAMPHU Another “in” live jazz, the 200-seater space fea-
place I shouldn’t even be telling tures art exhibitions, film screen-
you about. Singer Georgia fills to ings, and more. Arrive at about
bursting this hole-in-the-wall tavern 11pm for the best jazz bands and
with her booming “blues mamma” atmosphere. 469 Wanchad Junction,
voice. She’s backed by a live band Phra Sumen Rd, Banglumphu.
playing Monday to Saturday. www.brownsugarbangkok.com.
There’s only space inside for a ☎ 02 282 0396. No SkyTrain or
handful of aficionados; make sure MRT. Map p 112.
you’re one of them! 13 Samsen Rd.
★ Fat Gut’z Saloon THONG
☎ 02 769 4613. No BTS SkyTrain or
MRT. Map p 112. LOR A vintage-type joint serving
fish and chips, cocktails and
Bamboo Bar BANGRAK An straight-up blues from the live
exquisite up-market venue, with band nightly from 9pm. 1st Floor,
marvelous international jazz and Grass Thonglor lifestyle mall, 264
blues bands and a play-it-again- Thonglor Soi 12. ☎ 02 714 9832.
Sam ambience. Adjoining the bar is Nearest BTS SkyTrain: Thonglor.
a Cuban cigar store that acts as a
smoking lounge. Mandarin Oriental, Flann O’Briens’s Irish Pub &
48 Oriental Ave. ☎ 02 659 9000, Restaurant BANGRAK This Irish
ext 7690. BTS SkyTrain Saphan Tak- pub-cum–sports bar is best known
sin. Map p 112. for its British pub grub and live
music, including a Thai Beatles
cover band on Fridays—it’s great!
Bangkok Nightlife A to Z
Bar @494 is known for its wine happy hours, which draw legions of locals and tourists.
Vino and a view at Scarlett, which is known for its expansive wine cellar.
Greater Bangkok
0 1 km
NONTHABURI
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The Best Arts & Entertainment
Naihong
Map Area Kr
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F
Phrannok Rd
Tanao Rd
Damrong
adamn
Rak Rd
Dinso
Buranasat Rd
F Wat
Soi Sala N10
Tonchai Mahathat The Golden
Rachin
Ratch
Mount
1
Arun Amarin
Atsadang Rd
Kaeo Kanlayana ng M
aat
F
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Chalo ang Rd
Rd
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chai R
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Grand em K
hak
Rd
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Boriph
Soi B
Sanam
R
rat Rd
Palace d
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aC
Maha
Rd
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N8 F Charoen Krung Rd oK
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S F Ch um R
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Shopping center N5
Rd
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EGV 22 thraraphitak Rd Boxing Stadium 5 en Rat
Charo N2
F
Foreign Correspondents’ Royal Bangkok KHLONG F
Club of Thailand 21 Sports Club 20 SAN Soi 10 Soi 7
Soi 9 F 9
Gallery Ver 8Wongwian Yai Sala Chalermkrung
Railway18Station
Goethe Institut Royal Theatre 6 Soi 14 N1
Wongwian F
Joe Louis Puppet Nam 9
Sala RimYai 10
Theatre 11 Salathip S10 Krung Thonbu
S ri Rd F
Krung F
Kathmandu
Pho Nimit k Rd Silom Village 15
Photo hapSru 16 Thon Buri
Ratc Gallery Studio 9 Art Space 1 S
Saphan Taksin
Lumphini Boxing Thavibu Gallery 14
Stadium 25 11 12 13
Velothailand 4
127
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Royal
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2nd
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1
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Soi Chitl
Maha Phruthar a m Rd
Stadium
2nd Sta
S S 23
m Rd
ongkorn 5
S Rd
Soi Chulalo Erawan
Rd
ngkorn 12 Shrine 21
Soi Chulal
PATHUMWAN
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Thong
Rd
Lamphong
Soi Chulal
20 S
Railway Chulalongkorn
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Soi Lang
S I L OM L
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Henri Dunant
Hua
mri
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Ram
hada
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Rd
Sarasin Rd
Rd
Maha Na
Soi Kaeo Fa
Witthayu
Ratc
Sam Yan
M
ya Rd
k h o n Rd
Si Phra
Sap
BANGRAK Lumphini
hap Park
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PATPONG S
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Surasak Rd
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128
Cinemas
Century Movie Plaza
RAJATHEWI Near Victory Monu-
ment, this plaza has eight screens
featuring the latest movies, plus
129
BTS SkyTrain: Saphan Taksin then free 501 2828. www.golf.th.com. Tickets
ferry from the pier. Map p 126. (non-members) 1600 baht per round.
AE, DC, MC, V. No metro. Map p 125.
Opera
Opera Siam SUKHUMVIT For- ★ Lumphini Boxing Stadium
merly Bangkok Opera, Opera Siam BANG KHAEN This brand new sta-
stages productions at the Thailand dium has seating for 500 and great
Cultural Center. These have in- sound and lighting systems. There’s
cluded The Magic Flute and Thai also a boxing school, museum, res-
productions written by the compa- taurant, and café. Fights are held
ny’s founder, S.P. Somtow. 48 Soi 33, every Tuesday and Friday at 6pm,
Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 231-5273. www.
and on Saturdays at 2pm. Like many
operasiam.music-now.org. Map p 125.
attractions in Thailand, there is one
price for Thais and another for for-
Puppet Shows eigners. 6 Ramintra, Anusavaree, Bang
★ Joe Louis Puppet The- Khaen, Bangkok. ☎ 02 252 8765.
atre LUMPHINI There are nightly www.muaythailumpinee.net. Nearest
performances of the Hindu classic MRT subway Phahonyothin station,
Ramayana featuring beautifullyhand- then a taxi ride. Map p 126.
carved puppets. Asiatique, S13, 2194
Chareon Krung Rd. ☎ 02 1084000. A ladyboy cabaret performer.
www.joelouistheatre.com. Tickets
400 baht Thais, 900 baht foreigners.
Daily 8 & 9:15pm. BTS SkyTrain:
Saphan Taksin, then free ferry from
the pier. Map p 126.
Sports Venues
Bangkok Golf Club PATHUM
THANI You can rent clubs and a
caddy and enjoy a day out on this
finely manicured 18-hole course,
known for its maze of water hazards.
It’s 30 minutes north of the city cen-
ter by taxi. 99 Tiwanon Rd. ☎ 02
132
Previous page: This terrace suite comes with a Jacuzzi at the Spa at the Peninsula Hotel.
135
n Rd
Riverside Resort 3
Convenient Resort 8
Ram
The Eugenia 5 Intr
a
ibis Riverside Bangkok 2
Maruay Garden Hotel 1
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Nak NONTHABURI Rd
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Rong Muan
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Rama I Rd b uri Rd
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Rama VI
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CHINATOWN
Ratchad
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Sa Soi 3 d
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138
Bangkok Hotels A to Z
The Best Hotels
Bangkok Hotels A to Z
At Chakrabongse Villas wood walls and traditional decor take visitors back to colonial-
era Bangkok.
Road. Charlie’s is cheap, cozy and atmosphere that makes this one of
The Best Hotels
friendly, and still manages to pro- Thailand’s favorite hotels. 946 Rama
vide satellite TV, air-conditioning, IV Rd. ☎ 02 200 9000. www.dusit.
and hot showers. 1034/36–37 Soi com. 517 units. Doubles from 6000
Saphan Khu, Lumphini. ☎ 02 679 baht. AE, DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain:
8330 1. www.charliehousethailand. Sala Daeng or MRT subway: Silom.
com. 19 units. Doubles 540 baht. MC, Map p 136.
V. BTS SkyTrain: Sala Daeng or MRT
★★★ The Eugenia SUKHUM-
subway: Lumphini. Map p 136.
VIT This renovated 19th-century
★★ Conrad Bangkok colonial house is a boutique hotel
SUKHUMVIT A classic, centrally with a difference and houses an intri-
located hotel in the business dis- cate collection of private antiques.
trict near Lumphini Park. The rooms My favorite features are the period
are luxurious and chic with wooden furnishings, right down to four-poster
decor and silk drapes. 87 Wireless beds and feather pillows. 267
Rd. ☎ 02 690 9999. www.conrad Sukhumvit Soi 31. ☎ 02 259 9017 9.
hotels3.hilton.com. 391 units. Dou- www.the-eugenia.bangkokthaihotels.
bles 8000–9000 baht w/breakfast. com. 12 units. Doubles 5800–7200
AE, DC, MC, V. BTS SkyTrain: Ploen baht w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. BTS Sky-
Chit. Map p 136. Train: Asok or Phrom Phong or MRT
subway: Sukhumvit. Map p 135.
Convenient Resort LAD KRA-
BANG Named for its close prox- Grand China Princess Hotel
imity to Suvarnabhumi Airport (it’s CHINATOWN Situated at the
just 5 minutes away); several of the intersection of Ratchawong and
comfortable, modest rooms at this Yaowarat roads in the heart of Chi-
hotel have countryside views. A natown, this hotel offers spacious
good choice if you have an early rooms and a revolving restaurant
flight out, otherwise no reason to on the 25th floor. 215 Yaowarat Rd.
stay here. 9–11 Lat Krabang Soi 38. ☎ 02 224 9977. www.
☎ 02 327 4118 21. www.convenien-
tresort.com. 67 units. Doubles 1100
The plush lobby of the Dusit Thani.
baht w/breakfast. MC, V. No metro.
Map p 135.
Diamond House
BANGLAMPHU You’ll be pleas-
antly surprised by the comfortable,
well-fitted rooms at this budget
hotel, which is located within walking
distance of Khao San Road, the
National Museum and Dusit Zoo.
4 Samsen Rd. ☎ 02 629 4008. www.
thaidiamondhouse.com. 22 units.
Doubles 1200–1400 baht. AE, MC, V.
No metro. Nearest ferry: Phra Arthit.
Map p 136.
Bangkok Hotels A to Z
Charoen Nakorn Rd. ☎ 02 659 2888.
www.ibis.com. 266 units. From 1500
baht. BTS SkyTrain: Krung Thonburi.
AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 135.
★ Metropolitan SATHORN A
stylish, minimalist hotel that prides
143
Bangkok Hotels A to Z
Few hotels are as luxurious—or as celebrated—as the Mandarin Oriental.
itself on health and holism with a BTS SkyTrain: Saphan Taksin. Map p
menu of accessories and activities— 135.
such as spas, yoga, and medita-
Novotel Bangkok SIAM SQUARE
tion—designed to protect your
Smack in the center of Bangkok’s
body and soul. 27 South Sathorn Rd.
most popular shopping district,
☎ 02 625 3333. www.comohotels. Novotel Bangkok offers a relaxing
com/metropolitanbangkok. 171 units.
lobby and rooms with wonderfully
Doubles 10,850 baht. AE, DC, MC, V.
soft beds. Intriguingly, it hosts a
BTS SkyTrain: Sala Daeng or MRT sub-
raunchy nightclub in the basement.
way: Lumphini. Map p 136.
392/44 Siam Square Soi 6. ☎ 02 209
Montien Riverside Hotel BANG 8888. www.novotelbkk.com. 429
KHO LAEM Located south of the units. Doubles 6500–8500 baht w/
city center, this towering hotel over- breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. BTS Sky-
looks the Chao Phraya River and Train: Siam. Map p 136.
has excellent facilities and graceful
★★ The Peninsula THONBURI
service. 372 Rama III Rd. ☎ 02 292
This award-winning east-meets-
2999. www.montien.com. 462 units.
west hotel is five-star in every way.
Doubles 5500 baht. AE, DC, MC, V.
The Nahm Restaurant sits right beside the pool at the slick Metropolitan Hotel.
144
The Peninsula’s swank infinity pool looks like it ends in the river (it doesn’t).
145
Bangkok Hotels A to Z
Though the rooms at the Pullman are a chic white, its entrance and lobby are a riot of
colors.
Kanchanaburi
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
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Kanchanaburi
sugarcane, Kanchanaburi feels much further than 130km from
Bangkok. It’s a 2-hour drive west towards Burma, though I recom-
mend a stop at the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market on the way.
The scenery en route is often breathtaking. Kanchanaburi itself is
most famous as the scene of the Death Railway immortalized in the
book and film The Bridge over the River Kwai. Many foreign visitors to
Thailand make the pilgrimage to pay their respects to relatives who
died as POWs here. You should rent a bicycle to see the sights,
stay overnight, and take a trip on one of the floating restaurants,
which transform into pulsating discotheques and karaoke cruisers
every evening. START: On Hwy 35 heading south-west, the Southern
Bus Terminal or Bangkok Noi Station.
❾ ElephantsWorld. This
nonprofit organization is dedicated
to caring for sick, old, disabled,
abused, and rescued elephants.
The sanctuary offers 1- and 2-day
programs where you can help care
for the elephants, prepare their
food, feed, and bathe them.
Pickup at your hotel at 9am. Ends
at 4pm. The 2-day program
The recreated bride over the River Kwae includes on-site accommodation.
(Death Railway Bridge). There is also a 1- to 4-week mahout
training course. 90/9 Moo 4, Ban
❺ Allied War Cemetery. This is Nong Hoi, Amphoe Mueang,
an immaculately preserved resting Tambon Wang Dong, Kanchanaburi.
place for 7,000 allied soldiers who
died working on the railway. 30N
min. Saenchuto Rd. Admission free,
donations welcome. Daily 7am–6pm.
❻ ★ JEATH War Museum.
Whereas the area’s other museums
commemorate the deaths of allied
soldiers in Kanchanaburi, the JEATH
(Japan, England, Australia, Thailand,
Holland) Museum depicts the lives
of the POWs. Visitors can experi-
ence the bamboo huts and bunkers
where POWs lived and some per-
sonal stories and belongings. It’s a
moving testimony to the sorrow of
war. 1 hr. Wat Chaichoompon, Pak
N
Phraek Rd. ☎ 034 511 263. Admis-
sion 50 baht. Daily 8am–5pm.
❼ Chung Kai Allied War Ceme-
tery. This smaller graveyard is
located on a scenic plain south
of town. 15 min. Mae Nam Kwae
N
Noi Rd. Admission free. Daily
Cleaning the tombstones at the Allied
7am–6pm. War Cemetery.
151
Kanchanaburi
Practical Matters: Kanchanaburi
The easiest way to get to
Kanchanaburi is by car. When
you’re on Hwy 35, drive 65 km
to Samut Songkam. Turn right
onto Hwy 325 and drive 16 km to
Damnoen Saduek Floating Mar-
ket. After visiting the market,
continue along Hwy 325 and
then turn left on Hwy 323 for 56
km. Trains and busses are also
doable, but will be more time
consuming.
A Kanchanaburii floating restaurant.
0 10 mi
4
0 10 km
Entry
1 2
Cha Om
304
3 K H AO YA I
33
N AT I O N A L PA R K
THAP LAN
Ban Na N AT I O N A L
PA R K
Nakhon Nayok
Khao Yai National Park
Pattaya
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
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2 North Patta
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1
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Pattaya Bay
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0 1/2 mi
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Pattaya
resort to the big city and is Thailand’s most visited beach. It is
easily accessible—many tourists jump straight off the plane, grab
the next bus to Pattaya and are on the beach in no time. It has
hotels, restaurants, bars, nightlife, theme parks, and everything else
you could imagine of a tropical resort. However, there’s no hiding
from the fact that Pattaya is perhaps the most notorious resort in
the world for sex tourism. Go-go bars, prostitutes, massage ser-
vices, and the like are unavoidable. Those who feel uncomfortable
with this should avoid Pattaya completely. Also be aware that visit-
ing sex workers is a crime, and doing so perpetuates abuse. That
said, Pattaya does have a lot to offer. In recent years a concerted
effort has been made to attract families and non–sex tourists. Kite-
surfers and windsurfers flock here to catch the waves, kids are kept
amused by theme parks, and there are first-class entertainment
venues, golf courses, restaurants, scuba diving courses, shopping
malls, and much more. Or, of course, you can just laze out on the
white, sandy beach on a lounger, eat seafood from passing ven-
dors, get your hair plaited, and swim in the sea. START: Eastern Bus
Terminal, Hua Lamphong Station or Sukhumvit Road.
Pattaya
Practical Matters: Pattaya
Buses leave Eastern Bus Terminal in Bangkok (adjacent to
Ekamai BTS SkyTrain station) every 30 minutes from 5:20am
to 11:20pm and the trip takes 2 hours; tickets are 117 baht. Alter-
natively, Suvarnabhumi Airport (☎ 02 134 4099) operates a
minibus service direct to Pattaya leaving the airport bus terminal
at 9am, noon, and 7pm daily. The trip takes 2 hours and costs
106 baht. Book via ☎ 02 246 0973, hotline 184, or www.bmta.
co.th.
Another option is to catch a train from Hua Lamphong Station
at 7am (but check first). The trip takes 3 hours. Book via ☎ 02 621
8701, 24-hour hotline 1690, or www.railway.co.th.
If you have a car, head to Ekkamai from Sukhumvit Road and
keep driving east. The road eventually turns into Hwy 34. Follow
signs for Chonburi and Pattaya. The trip should take 2 hours (traffic
should ease a bit after Chonburi).
1 Bang Pa-in
2 Wat Mahathat
3 Wat Ratchaburana
4 Wat Si Sanphet
5 Chao Sam Phraya Museum
Rd
6 Wat Yai Chaimongkon Pa Maphrao
Rd
Pa s a k R
7 Ban Wacharachai Uthong
iver
Ayutthaya
8 Bannkunpra Guesthouse 3
Uthong Rd
Rd
Naresuan
2 Railway
4 Station
Bang Ian Rd
er
Riv
8 n a Rd
Rotcha
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7
P
5
ao
Rotchana Rd
Ch
Si Sanphet Rd
Khlong Tho Rd
g Rd
Rd
ng
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Uthon
U
Chao P
0 1/2 mi
h r ay a R i v e r
0 0.5 km 1
161
Ayutthaya
in Asia, Ayutthaya is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and
offers visitors the chance to reminisce back to the days when Bang-
kok was no more than a fort guarding the river to this divine city of
1 million people. The city was founded in 1350, and Ayutthayans
were advanced and powerful, their influence felt around the region.
They tidily conquered the almighty Khmer at Angkor and extended
their kingdom to Burma, Laos and southern China. The glory of
Ayutthaya was destroyed in 1767 by rampaging Burmese armies,
who looted the Siamese capital and destroyed many of its great
buildings. Most visitors arrive by train or tour bus. The best way to
see the ruins of Ayutthaya, in my opinion, is to rent a bicycle and
meander around at your own speed. You can rent bicycles just out-
side the train station for about 50 baht a day, or at any one of sev-
eral stores in town. START: Mo Chit Bus Terminal, Hua Lamphong
Station or Hwy 1.
Before You Go
The Savvy Traveller
Before You Go
a giant water park, it might be like temples as Buddhist Lent begins.
the Songkran Festival (Thai New The International Festival of
Year), a weeklong extravaganza Music & Dance is a month-long
marking the Thai New Year on April festival of opera, jazz, ballet,
13 to 14. The country celebrates symphony, and more, usually held
with the “Water Festival,” a free-for- at the Thailand Cultural Center on
all frenzy of soaking and splashing. Ratchadaphisek Road in September
Religious activities also take place and October (☎ 02 204 2394.
among the chaos, notably at Sanam www.bangkokfestivals.com).
Luang, where the image of the Phra World Film Festival of
Buddha Sihing is carried out and Bangkok (☎ 02 338-3618-9, www.
ritually bathed. Ratchadamnoen worldfilmbkk.com) screens more
Avenue and Khao San Road (see than 150 movies in 10 days at SF
p 54, bullet ❺) are also popular World Cinema CentralWorld
drenching spots. Visitors beware— showcasing Thai, Asian, and
you will not be spared! Arm yourself international indie films. Usually in
with water guns and prepare for a November.
bath! Carry nothing that cannot SPRING. My favorite festival, Loy
survive underwater. Kratong, is a time for reflection.
The Royal Ploughing Ceremony Similar to making New Year’s
is reenacted every year in May at resolutions, you have the
Sanam Luang in front of the Grand opportunity to atone for your sins
Palace. This ancient event is of the previous year and promise
performed to gain an auspicious to make amends and pray for
start to the planting season. Sacred, good luck in the year ahead. The
white oxen symbolically plough cleansing ritual itself involves
the field, which is then sown with making kratong—small banana-leaf
seeds blessed by the king. After rafts decorated with flowers,
that, farmers rush in to collect the incense, and candles—then going
hallowed seeds to replant in their down to the banks of the river,
own fields. closing your eyes, making a wish,
Visakha Bucha commemorates and letting your kratong (and your
the date of the Buddha’s birth, worries) go away with the current.
enlightenment, and transcendence With 60 million Thai people doing
to Nirvana; candlelit processions likewise that night, the effect of
and sermons are held at all temples. thousands of candles floating
There’s a larger festival at Sanam downstream together is amazing.
Luang. For more information, You can also light a Chinese
contact TAT (☎ 02 250 5500). lantern (a khom loy) and send it
Miss Tiffany Universe (www. floating up to the heavens. The
misstiffanyuniverse.com), held in festival takes place under the first
May or June, is the Thai version of full moon in November, and is best
Oscar Night. This televised pageant enjoyed beside the Chao Phraya
in Pattaya selects the country’s River, and across the city at lakes
most beautiful ladyboy. and canals.
WINTER. Devotees flock to temples Gay Pride Week involves
to pray on Asanha Bucha, the day parties, contests, parades, and
commemorating Buddha’s first more feather boas than you can
sermon after his enlightenment. shake a stick at. It’s held at Silom
The following morning, Khao Rd Soi 4 and various locations
Pansa, you can often watch young around the city.
166
Getting There
By Plane that makes eight stops along its
Bangkok has one international 28-km route, and two express lines
airport, Suvarnabhumi International that take you into the city in about
Airport, situated 35km east of the 15 minutes. Express trains run
city center. Getting to and from the every 20 minutes from 6am–
airport: Although many independent midnight and cost 150 baht to
taxi drivers operate freely at the Makasan station and BTS SkyTrain
airport, there is a 24-hour taxi rank on Phayathai station. The commuter
level 2, outside arrivals. Metered taxis train runs every 30 minutes and
are arranged quickly and efficiently costs 45 baht. The t ticket office is
with a 50-baht charge added to the in the basement of the Passenger
taxi fare (only when coming from the Terminal Building. For timetables
airport). The average cost of a taxi to and routes, visit www.bangkok
downtown Bangkok is around 300 airporttrain.com.
baht. There is also a limousine Free shuttle buses escort
service at the airport. passengers to the car rental center
The overhead Airport Rail Link and local bus terminal.
has three lines, a commuter rail
167
Public buses run 24 hours from ext 5). There’s no shortage of taxis
Getting Around
the terminal to various parts of the and local buses heading to the city
city. The fare is 35 baht. center from the front door of the
Avis, Hertz, Budget and several terminal, but there’s no metro station
other car rental agencies operate nearby. Buses from Cambodia and
24 hours at the airport. Laos pull up at the Northern Bus
Terminal (also known as Mor Chit
By Train Terminal; Kampaengphet 2 Rd,
Trains to Bangkok arrive at Hua Chatuchak; ☎ 02 537 8055). Hordes
Lamphong Station from Singapore of taxis wait outside the terminal 24
and Malaysia. hours, and there are dozens of local
buses to the city center. The best
By Bus option for transport is the BTS
Buses from Malaysia terminate at the SkyTrain or MRT subway; it’s 5
Southern Bus Terminal (24/6 Moo 8, minutes to Chatuchak Park on the
Bamrung Ratchachonnanee Rd, MRT line or Mo Chit BST line.
Chimpli Taling Chun; ☎ 02 894 6122
Getting Around
By BTS SkyTrain and MRT baht. A one-day unlimited SkyTrain
subway Pass costs 120 baht (ideal for
Getting around Bangkok is easier tourists). For more information call
and quicker now than it was 20 years ☎ 02 617 7300, BTS Hotline 02 617
ago, mainly due to expressways and 6000, BTS Tourist Information
the twin metropolitan rail lines, the Center 02 617 7340 2; www.bts.
overhead Bangkok Transit System co.th.
(BTS) or SkyTrain, and the Mass Opened in 2004, the MRT is as
Rapid Transit (MRT) subway network. fast, efficient, and modern as the
The network covers the main SkyTrain. There are currently 18
shopping, business, and nightlife MRT stations with more in the
centers of the city. For the Old City, pipeline. It stretches 20km in a
you should take taxis and express horseshoe shape from Hua
boats on the river. Lamphong (the main train station)
The BTS and MRT are the near Chinatown to Bang Sue in the
fastest ways to get around; they are north. Fares are 15 to 40 baht. An
clean, efficient, air-conditioned, unlimited 1-day MRT pass costs
cheap, and run daily 6am to 120 baht; a 3-day pass costs 230
midnight. There are two lines: the baht; and a 30-day pass costs 800
Silom line runs between National baht. For more information call
Stadium at the Siam shopping area www.bangkokmetro.co.th. ☎ 02
to Bang Wa, across the Chao 624 5200. Both the BTS and MRT
Phraya River, while the Sukhumvit routes are being currently being
line runs from Mo Chit to Bearing. extended.
The two lines meet at Siam station,
and also interconnect at two points By Express Boat
with the underground (MRT)—at My favorite way of traveling in
Sala Daeng and Asok stations. Bangkok is by boat. It’s the best
Easy-to-read BTS city maps are free way to get to famous historical
from any station. Fares are 15 to 70 attractions such as the Grand
168
nowhere to park, and it’s dangerous. Samui, Phuket, and Chiang Mai.
Fast Facts
However, if you are heading out of www.donmueangairportthai.com.
the city, it can be a good option if
you’re confident driving in reckless By Train
traffic. You will need an international The main station is Hua Lamphong,
driving license and your passport to situated in central Bangkok near
rent a car. Prices start at about 1500 Chinatown (Rama IV Road; ☎ 02
baht per day. 621 8701, 24-hour hotline 1690;
www.railway.co.th). It is on the MRT
By Plane subway line. Trains run daily north
Domestic flights are relatively to Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai,
cheap in Thailand. In Bangkok, Don Phitsanulok, Nakorn Ratchasima,
Mueang International Airport has Ubon Ratchathani, and Udon Thani.
two terminals serving domestic and A line also runs south to Hua Hin,
international flights by low-cost Chumpon, Suratthani, Trang, and
carriers, including Thai Smile, Nok Songkhla. Another runs southeast
Air, Thai AirAsia, Thai Lion Air, to Pattaya.
Orient Thai Airlines, and others. From Bangkok Noi train station
Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Thonburi (Rod Fai Rd/Train Rd,
is served by major international Sirirach, Bangkok Noi; ☎ 02 411
airlines, and Bangkok Airways which 3102; www.railway.co.th and www.
flies internationally as well as to seat61.com/Thailand), trains run
local destinations such as Koh daily to Kanchanaburi.
Fast Facts
ATMS ATMs are plentiful in bank branches in malls such as
Bangkok and accept most western Siam Paragon keep longer hours
debit cards. You can use your PIN and open on Saturday and Sunday.
from home. You’ll find 24-hour ATMs Government offices: 8:30am to
in shopping malls, at 7-Elevens, at 4:30pm Monday to Friday. Temples:
petrol stations and on busy streets. usually 8am to 6pm daily. Bars:
Or just ask your taxi driver to stop at usually 6pm to 1am daily.
an ATM en route. They offer an Pharmacies: usually 9am to 7pm
excellent exchange rate usually. Monday to Saturday.
BABYSITTING Asking a stranger to CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
babysit for you is not common in Australia: 37 Sathorn Tai Rd, Sathorn
Thai culture and there are no (☎ 02 344 6300). Canada: 15th
recommended agencies. The best Floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama
option would be to ask your hotel IV Rd, Bangrak (☎ 02 636 0540).
staff. China: 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din
BIKE RENTALS Velothailand (see Daeng (☎ 02 245 7043 4). France:
p 132) rents quality bicycles and 35 Soi Rong Phasi Kao (Soi 36),
organizes cycling tours of Bangkok. Charoenkrung Rd, Bangrak (☎ 02
There is also a list of bike rental 657 5100). Germany: 9 Sathorn Tai
stores at: www.yellow.co.th/ Rd, Sathorn (☎ 02 287 9000). India:
YellowPages/Bangkok/bicycle-rental. 46 Soi Prasanmit, Sukhumvit Soi 23
(☎ 02 258 0300 5). Japan: 177
BUSINESS HOURS Banks: 8:30am to
Witthayu Road, Lumphini,
3:30pm Monday to Friday. Some
170
Fast Facts
brigade and ☎ 1554 for a medical
emergency. open 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday to
Friday and 9am to midday Saturday.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
Letters to/from Europe, Australia,
Thailand is one of the most gay-
the U.S., and Canada usually take a
friendly countries in the world. Few
week to arrive. For important
Thais will give a second thought to
documents use Express Mail Service
your sexuality, such is the openness
(EMS) or registered post. You can
of gay culture in the country. The
mail postcards, letters, and
only matter generally frowned upon
packages at any post office.
is displays of physical affection—
Stamp costs are as follows:
homosexual or otherwise—in public.
postcards 2 baht (within Thailand), 9
HOSPITALS Bumrungrad to 12 baht (international); letters up
International: 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi to 100 grams 3 baht (within Thailand),
Nana Nua), Wattana; ☎ 02 667 24 to 80 baht to the U.K., 28 to 100
1000; www.bumrungrad.com. baht to the U.S., 24 to 80 baht to
Samitivej: 133 Sukhumvit 49, Australia. Registered post, DHL,
Klongtan Nua Wattana; ☎ 02 711 EMS, and other international carriers
8000; www.samitivejhospitals.com. also operate out of public post
Bangkok Hospital: 2 Soi Soonvijai offices and private outlets. Many
7, New Petchaburi Rd, Bangkapi, tourist-friendly shops and boutiques
Huay Khwang; ☎ 02 310 3000 or will arrange postage directly for you
1719, heart hotline 02 375 2222; for a small commission. Thailand
www.bangkokhospital.com. Post: 111 M3, Changwattana Rd,
INSURANCE Check your health Laksi; ☎ 02 831 3131; www.
insurance policy before leaving home thailandpost.com. Bangrak: Bangrak
to ensure that Thailand is covered. As Post Office Building, Charoen Krung
a tropical country, there may be some Rd; ☎ 02 236 9848. Silom: 333
restrictions. In the unfortunate event Bangkok Bank head office building,
of an accident, medical staff in Silom Rd, Bangrak; ☎ 02 231 4813
Thailand will always ask if you have or 02 231 4888. Ratchadamnoen:
insurance and will call your insurance 81 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, Soi
company—whether it is in Thailand or Ratcha Damnoen Nua, Boworn
abroad—to confirm your coverage. Niwet, Pranakorn; ☎ 02 282 1811
INTERNET CAFES & WI-FI You can ext 35 or 02 2825791 ext 49.
find internet cafes all over the city, Rattanakosin: 15–17 Na Pra Lan Rd,
especially at tourist areas and Grand Palace, Pra Nakorn; ☎ 02 222
shopping malls. The average rate is 3862 or 02 224 4705. Pom Prab:
about 1 baht per minute. If you 77–79 Ratchawong Rd, Jakkawad,
have a local SIM card for your Sampanthawong; ☎ 02 222 1705.
mobile phone, Wi-Fi coverage is Chulalongkorn University:
excellent and cheap. Many cafes Pathumwan; ☎ 02 252 7404.
and hotels offer free Wi-Fi, but five- PASSPORTS & VISAS Visitors to
star hotels often charge a high fee. Thailand receive an automatic
LOST PROPERTY There are no lost 30-day tourist visa on arrival if they
property offices in Bangkok. If you are a passport holder from most
are lucky, someone will hand your western countries, including
lost item to the police, but don’t Australia, Canada, France, Germany,
hold your breath on it. Items left the Netherlands, New Zealand,
behind in taxis can be traced Spain, the U.K., and the U.S.
through the main taxi depot. Ask Passports must be valid at least 6
your hotel staff to help you. months ahead of arrival. However,
172
Local Customs,
Traditions & Taboos
There are a number of hints that toward the monarchy is not toler-
will help you have a happy stay in ated. Remember to stand for the
Bangkok. Firstly, the Thai royal fam- Thai national anthem in cinemas,
ily is deeply revered, and disrespect theatres, ceremonies, and at certain
174
Emergencies
Help! Chuay duai!
Fire! Fai mai!
Thief Kha-moy
Call the police Riak tam-ruat hai noi
175
Directions
Left Sai
Right Kwa
In front of Khang nar
Behind Khang lang
Go straight Trong pai
Turn Leow
Stop Yut
Where are you going? Khun ja pai nai?
I’m going to … Ja pai …
Where is …? … Yoo tee nai?
How do i get to …? … Pai yang rai?
Traveling
Bus Rot mae
Bus station Satani rot mae
Train Rot fai
Railway station Satani rot fai
Ticket Tua
Airport Sanarm bin
Ferry Rua doy sarn
Express boat Rua duan
Taxi Taxi
Car Rot keng
What time does it leave? Ja ork kee mung?
What time is it arriving? Ja ma kee mung?
How much is it? Tao rai?
Places
Temple Wat
Road Tanon
Lane Soi
Shop Raan kay khong
Cinema Pappayon
Bank Tanakarn
Embassy Sa tan toot
Museum Pipittapan
Post office Praisanee
Restaurant Rarn-a-harn
Hotel Rong raem
Market Ta laad
At a Hotel
Do you have a vacant room? Khun mee hong wang mai?
I’d like a room for 1 night Tong garn pak neung keun
176
The Savvy Traveller
What is the charge per night? Keun la tao rai?
May I see the room first? Kor doo hong dai mai?
Key Koon jair
Room Hong
Single room Hong diaw
Double room Hong koo
Soap Saboo
Towel Par ched tua
Hot water Narm ron
Cold water Narm yen
In a Restaurant
Food Aharn
Breakfast Aharn chao
Lunch Aharn tiang
Dinner Aharn yen
Dessert Kanom waan
Curry Gaeng
Rice Khao
Beer Bia
Water Narm plao
Spicy Ped
Not spicy Mai ped
Is it spicy? Ped mai?
Salty Kem
Sweet Waan
Sour Priaw
Can I see the menu please? Kor menu dai mai?
It is very delicious Aroi mak mak
Bill/check please Keb ngoen duay/check bin
Health
I have a headache (M)Pom/(f)Chan puad hua
I have a fever Pom/chan pen khai
Sore throat Jeb kor
Cough Ai
Medicine Yaa
I’m allergic to … Pom pae …
Numbers
0 Soon
1 Neung
2 Song
3 Sarm
4 See
5 Haa
6 Hok
7 Jed
8 Paed
9 Gao
177
Time
Day Wan
Month Duean
Year Pee
Today Wan-nee
Tomorrow Prung-nee
Yesterday Mua wan-nee
Sunday Wan ar-tit
Monday Wan jan
Tuesday Wan ang karn
Wednesday Wan put
Thursday Wan pa-rue-had
Friday Wan suk
Saturday Wan sao
One minute Neung natee
One hour Neung cheu mung
What time is it? Kee mung la
Index
Author’s Lounge (The Man- Buddhaisawan Chapel, 21
Index
darin Oriental), 28 Buddhism, 14
Ayutthaya, 19, 160–162 Buddhist monks, 5
See also Accommoda- baat (alms bowls), 53
tions and Restaurant B Kathin ceremony, 17
Baat (alms bowls), 53 Buddhist temples, 4. See
indexes, below. also entries starting with
Babysitting, 169
Badminton courts, Lumphini “Wat”
A Park, 83 Ayutthaya, 161–162
Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, Old Bangkok, 35–40
The Balcony, 118
87 Bull’s Head & Angus
Bamboo Bar, 119
About Cafe/About Studio, Steakhouse, 115
Bangkok Dolls Museum, 43
128 Business hours, 169
Bangkok Golf Club, 131
Absolute Yoga, 50 Bus travel, 167, 168
Bangkok International
Accommodations. See
Fashion Week, 164
Hotels
Bangkok Planetarium & C
Ad Here the 13th, 119
Science Museum, 45 Calypso Cabaret, 4, 124, 130
Aerobics, 83
Bangkok TK Park, 45 Car rentals, 177
Afternoon tea, 26
Bang Kwang Prison, 61 Car travel, 168–169
Airlines, phone numbers
Banglamphu, 31 Celebrities, 4, 158
and websites, 177
hotels, 139, 140 Cellphones, 166
Airport Rail Link, 166
restaurants, 98, 99, Center for the Blind, 50
Air travel, 166, 169
103, 105 Central Chidlom, 73, 74
Alangkarn Theatre
shopping, 73, 77 Central Embassy, 74
(Pattaya), 159
Banglamphu Canal, 61 CentralWorld, 74
Alliance Française, 129
Bang Pa-in (Ayutthaya), 161 Century Movie Plaza,
Allied War Cemetery
Bangrak 128–129
(Kanchanaburi), 150
hotels, 139, 141, 142, Chakri Maha Prasat, 13
Almeta, 80
144–146 Chang Torn, 79
Alms bowls (baat), 53
restaurants, 95–100, Chao Phraya River, 17
Amulet Market, 14, 55, 72
102, 103, 106 neighborhood tour,
Amulets, 72
shopping, 79–80 57–61
Anantara Bangkok Riverside
Banyan Tree Spa, 49 Chao Sam Phraya Museum
Resort & Spa, jacuzzi at,
Bar@494, 121–122 (Ayutthaya), 161
5–6, 138
Bargaining, 79 Chatuchak Market, 77
Ananta Samakkorn Throne
Bars and pubs, 115–118 Chatuchak Weekend Market
Hall, 88
Basketball court, Lumphini (JJ), 5, 25
Ancient Cloth & Silk
Park, 83 Chaw Rung Reung, 64
Museum, 88
Bell Temple (Wat Rakhang), Cheap Charlie’s, 115
Antiques, 25, 72
59 Chen Tai Chi School, 50
taking home, 73
Bike rentals, 169 Children, families with,
Aphaiwong, Mew, 54
Black Swan, 115 42–45
Art galleries, 128
BMTA buses, 168 Lumphini Park, 85
Arts and entertainment,
Boat tours and cruises Children’s Discovery
124–132
Chao Phraya River, Museum, 42
art galleries, 128
57, 58 Children’s playground
best bets, 124
dinner cruises, 6, 102 (Lumphini Park), 85
cinemas, 128–129
Small Bangkok Canal, Chinatown, 5, 25
classical music, 129
60 hotels, 140, 144
cultural institutes, 129
Boat travel, 167 neighborhood tour,
dinner theater, 23, 130
Bodybuilding zone with free 63–66
ladyboy cabaret, 130
weights, 83 restaurants, 98, 107
opera, 131
Boxing, Thai (muay Thai), shopping, 78
puppet shows, 131
27–28 street food, 33
sports venues, 131–132
The Bridge over the River Chinese New Year, 164
theater, 132
Kwai, 149 Chitralada Palace, 87
Asanha Bucha, 165
Brown’s, 76 Chulalongkorn, King
Asia Books, 72
BTS SkyTrain, 167 (Rama V), 22, 23, 39
Asiatique, 77
Buddha (Siddhartha statue of, 87
ATMs, 169
Gautama), 14
179
Chung Kai Allied War Cem- Embassies, 169–170 Handicrafts, 77
Index
etery (Kanchanaburi), 150 EM District, 74 Health concerns, 172
Church of Holy Conception, Emerald Buddha, 12, 13 Health insurance, 171
61 Emergencies, 170–171 Hellfire Pass Memorial
Cinemas, 128–129 Erawan Shrine, 27 Museum (Kanchanaburi),
Clock tower, Lumphini Park, 151
84 F Holidays, 172
The Club, 121 Families with children, 42–45 Ho mok pla (fish curry
Combat Zone Paintball, 45 Lumphini Park, 85 souffles), 33
Concept CM², 120 Fat Gut’z Saloon, 119 Hospitals, 171
Concert in the Park, 84 Feroci, Corrado, 54 Hotels, 134–146. See also
Consulates, 169–170 Festivals and special events, Accommodations Index;
Credit card companies, 177 164–166 specific neighborhoods
Currency exchange, 170 Fish curry souffles (ho mok best bets, 134
Customs, traditions and pla), 33 House of Chao, 72
taboos, 173–174 Flann O’Briens’s Irish Pub & House RCA, 129
Customs regulations, 170 Restaurant, 115, 119
Floating island (Lumphini I
D Park), 84 Insanity, 120
Damnoen Saduak Floating Flora and fauna Insurance, 171
Market (Kanchanaburi), Khao Yai National Park, International Festival of
149 155 Music & Dance, 165
Death Railway Bridge Lumphini Park, 84–85 Internet and Wi-Fi, 171
(Kanchanaburi), 149 Food stores and markets, 5, Iron Fairies, 115
Deep, 115 25, 76. See also Street Isetan, 74–75
Democracy Monument, 54 food
Dentists, 170 Chinatown, 63–64 J
Department stores & shop- Foreign Correspondents’ Jacuzzi, Anantara Bangkok
ping centers, 73–75 Club Of Thailand, 129–130 Riverside Resort & Spa,
Dining, 90–108. See also Forensic Science, Museum 5–6, 138
Restaurants Index; Street of, 60 JEATH War Museum (Kan-
food; specific Fotofile, 73 chanaburi), 150
neighborhoods The Jim Thompson House,
best bets, 90 G 25–26
etiquette, 105 Gallery Ver, 128 Jim Thompson Thai Silk,
Dinner cruises, 6, 102 Gay and lesbian bars and 16, 80
Dinner theater, 23, 130 clubs, 118 JJ (Chatuchak Weekend
Alangkarn Theatre Gay and lesbian travellers, Market), 5, 25
(Pattaya), 159 171 Joe Louis Puppet Theatre,
DJ Station, 118 Gay Pride Week, 165 23, 45, 131
Doctors, 170 The Giant Swing, 54 Jogging/cycling track,
Dolls Museum, 43 Glow, 120 Lumphini Park, 83
Dragon Flower Temple, 64 Goethe Institut, 129
Dream World, 42–43
Drinking laws, 170
Golden Buddha, 39, 66 K
The Golden Mount (Phu Kai, 76
Drug laws, 170 Khao Tong), 10–11, 36, 53 Kanchanaburi, 148–151
Drugstores, 172 Golden Mount Fair, 166 restaurants, 150
The Dubliner, 115 Government tourist offices, Kathmandu Photo Gallery,
Dusit Park, 22, 87–88 164 128
Dusit Thani Pattaya, 157 GrabTaxi, 168 Khao San Road, 4, 22,
Dusit Throne Hall, 13 The Grand Palace, 11–13, 54–55, 77
Dusit Zoo, 43–44, 88 59, 87 Khao Yai National Park,
Greetings and common 152–155
E phrases, 174–175 Khlong San Market, 33
Electricity, 170 Kids, 42–45
Electronics, 75–76 H Lumphini Park, 85
Elephant rides, Pattaya, 159 Haew Narok Waterfall (Khao Kim Bowl, 44–45
ElephantsWorld (Kanchana- Yai National Park), 154 The King and I, 23, 37
buri), 150 Haew Suwat Waterfall (Khao King Rama VI Statue, 83
Elite Used Books, 72–73 Yai National Park), 153–154 King’s Castle, 17
180
King’s Corner, 17 N Patpong, 6
Index
Kinokuniya, 73 Nakornthon Thai Medical sex tourism, 16–17
Kite-Flying Festival, 164 Spa, 49 Patpong Night Market, 78
Klong Toey, restaurants, Nang Nual Riverside Pub, 116 Pattaya, 156–159
94, 120 Narai Phand, 77 Pattaya Elephant Village,
Klong Toey Market, 33–34 Natayasala: Traditional Thai 159
Ko Kret, 61 Puppet Theatre (Joe Louis Pattaya Kart Speedway, 159
Kuan Si Yim shrine, 66 Puppet Theatre), Pattaya Park, 158
23, 45 PB Valley Khao Yai Winery,
L National Gallery, 21, 55, 128 154
Ladyboys, 4–5, 130 National Museum, 21 Phahurat Market, 78
Lak Muang, 55 National Theatre, 132 Pharmacies, 172
Lava Club, 120–121 Neighborhood tours, 53–66 Photography Museum,
Leng Buai Ia Shrine, 65 Chao Phraya River, 87–88
Leng Noi Yee Temple (Wat 57–61 Phra Buddha Sihing, 21
Mangkol Kamalawat), 64 Chinatown, 63–66 Phra Mondop, 12
Leonowens, Anna, 23 Old City, 53–55 Phra Nakorn, hotels,
Levels, 121 Nest, 116–117 139, 141
Live music, 119–120 Nightclubs, 120–121 Phranakorn Bar, 117
Lost property, 171 Nightlife, 110–122 Phra Si Rattana Chedi, 12
Lotus Arts de Vivre, 79 bars and pubs, Phra Sumen Fort, 60–61
Loy Kratong, 165 115–118 Phu Khao Tong (The Golden
Luangpor Toh, 39 best bets, 110 Mount), 10–11, 36, 53
Lumphini Boxing Stadium, gay and lesbian bars Planetarium & Science
28, 131 and clubs, 118 Museum, Bangkok, 45
Lumphini Park, 5, 10 live music, 119–120 Ploenchit, shopping, 74, 77
outdoor activities, nightclubs, 120–121 Police, 172
83–84 wine bars, 121–122 Pratunam Market, 77, 78
Lumphini Park Public Library, Nong Pak Chee Observa- Public holidays, 172
84 tion Tower (Khao Yai Puppet shows, 131
National Park), 153
M Nonthaburi, 61 Q
Mae Toranee, 55 Quartier Cine-Art at
Mail and postage, 171 O Emquartier, 129
Makha Bucha, 164 Oasis Spa, 49–50 Queen Saovabha Memorial
The Mandarin Oriental The Office Bar & Grill, 117 Institute, 45
Hotel, 4, 57 Old City neighborhood tour, Queen Sirikit Park, 25, 42
Author’s Lounge, 28 53–55 Queen Victoria, 117
The Marble House, 50 Old Maps & Prints, 77
Marble Temple (Wat 100 Tonson Gallery, 128 R
Benchamabophit), 39 Ong’s Tea, 76 Rama I, King, 38, 40, 53, 55,
Marco Tailors, 79 Opera Siam, 131 59, 60
Markets, 77–79. See also The Oriental Spa & Rama III, King, 38, 40
Food stores and markets; Ayurvedic Penthouse, 49 Rama IV, King, 39, 88
Shopping Or Tor Kor Market, 31 Ramakien Gallery, 12
Massage, Wat Pho, 5 Outdoor activities, 83–88 Rama V, King (King Chul-
Meditation, 48, 49 Dusit Park, 87–88 alongkorn), 39, 87
The Metropolitan, 49 Lumphini Park, 83–84 Rasayana Retreat, 50
Miss Tiffany Universe, 165 Overtone Music Cave, 120 Ratchadamnoen Boxing
Mobile phones, 166 Stadium, 28, 131–132
Molly Malone’s, 115 P Rattanakosin, 59, 61
Mon people, 61 Pahurat Cloth Market, 63 hotels, 138, 139
Moon Bar at Vertigo, Pantip Plaza, 75–76 Red Chinese Temple, 63
115–116 Papaya salad (som-tam), 32 Restaurants, 90–108. See
Motorbike taxis, 168 Paragon Cineplex, 129 also Restaurants Index;
MRT subway, 167 Passport Bookshop, 73 Street food; specific
Muay Thai (Thai boxing), Passports, 171–172 neighborhoods
27–28 Pathumwan best bets, 90
Museum of Forensic hotels, 140–142 etiquette, 105
Science, 60 shopping, 73–76 Retro Live Cafe, 120
181
Ripley’s Believe It or Not menswear, 79 T
Index
Museum (Pattaya), objets d’art, 79–80 Tai Chi
157–158 silk, 80 Chen Tai Chi School,
River City, 72, 79–80 VAT refunds, 77 50
River of Kings Festival, 164 Siam Niramit, 130 at Lumphini Park, 5, 10
Robinson, 75 Siam Ocean World, 44 Takraw, 85
Royal Bangkok Sports Club Siam Paragon, 26, 75 Taksin, King, 58
and Polo Club, 132 Siam Park City, 43 Taksin the Great, King, 38,
Royal Barges Museum, Silk, 16, 27 40
14–15, 60 Jim Thompson, 26 Talaat Rot Fai, 78
Royal Elephant Museum, 88 Silk Bar, 117 Tawandang German
Royal Kathin Festival, 15, 17 Silom, shopping, 72, 76, 78 Brewery, 120
Royal Pantheon, 12 Silom & Surawong, 33 Taxes, 172
The Royal Ploughing Silom Village, 130 Taxis, 166, 168
Ceremony, 165 Sing Sing Theater, 6, 121 Telephone Pub, 118
Siwalai Gardens, 13 Telephones, 172–173
S Sky Bar at Sirocco, 5, 28, Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun),
Safari World, 42 110, 117 4, 15, 16, 58
Safety, 172 Slim, 121 Temples, Buddhist, 4.
Sala Chalermkrung Royal Small Bangkok Canal, 60 See also entries starting
Theatre, 132 Smoking, 170 with “Wat”
Salathip, 130 Snake farm, 45 Ayutthaya, 161–162
Samma Samadhi, 49 Soi Ban Baat, 53 Old Bangkok, 35–40
Sampeng Lane (Soi Wanit), Soi Rambuttri, 55 Tennis courts, 83
25, 63, 78 Soi Wanit (Sampeng Lane), Terminal 21, 75
Sanctuary of Truth (Pattaya), 25, 63, 78 Tha Chang pier, 59
158 Som-tam (papaya Thai boxing (muay Thai),
Santa Cruz Church, 57–58 salad), 32 27–28
Saphan Phut Night Songkran Festival (Thai New Thai culture show/dinner
Bazaar, 78 Year), 165 theatre, 23
Sathorn Souvenirs, 6, 14, 17, 77, 78 Thailand-Burma Railway
hotels, 138, 139, 142, Spas, 48–50 Center (Kanchanaburi),
145 Spices, 5 149
restaurants, 95, 98, Spiritual pursuits, 48–50 Thailand Cultural Centre,
99, 103 Sports, Lumphini Park, 83 129
Saxophone, 120 Sports venues, 131–132 Thai massage, 20, 48–50
Scarlett, 122 St. Francis Xavier Thai New Year (Songkran
Seasons, 164–165 Church, 61 Festival), 165
Senior travellers, 172 Standard Sweets & Restau- Thai people, 14
Sex industry (sex tourism), rant, 63 Thammasat University, 59
16–17 The Stranger Bar, 118 Thavibu Gallery, 128
SF World Cinema, 129 Street food, 31–34, 55, 95 Theater, 132
Shopping, 68–80. See also insects, 99 dinner, 23, 130
specific neighborhoods Lumphini Park, 83 Thian Fa Foundation, 65
amulets, 72 Suan Santichai Prakarn, 61 Thompson, Jim, 25–26
antiques, 72 Sukhumvit East, 34 Thonburi, hotels, 138, 141,
bargaining, 79 Sukhumvit Road 143
best bets, 68 hotels, 138–141, 145, Tiffany’s, 157
books, 72–73 146 Tipping, 173
cameras, 73 nightlife, 114–117, To-Sit, 120
conscientious, 80 120–122 Tourism Authority of
department stores & restaurants, 91, 94, 96, Thailand (TAT), 173
shopping centers, 97, 100–102, Tourist information, 173
73–75 104–107 Tourist offices, 164
electronics, 75–76 shopping, 69–70, Tourist traps, 173
fashion, 76 72–76, 80 Traditional Medicines
handicrafts, 77 Sunset watching, 5 Maharat Road, 80
jewelry & gems, 77 Suvarnabhumi International Traditional medicine stores,
maps, 77 Airport, 166 19–20
markets, 77–79 Swimming pool, 83 Train travel, 166, 167, 169
182
Transportation, 167–169 Wat Sanjaomaeguanim, 58 Lamphu Treehouse, 141
Index
Travel agencies, 173 Wat Si Sanphet (Ayutthaya), Lub*D, 142
Traveling to Bangkok, 161 Luxx, 142
166–167 Wat Sutat, 36–37 Mandarin Oriental, 142
Tuba, 117–118 Wat Traimit, 39 Maruay Garden Hotel, 142
Tuk-tuks, 6, 168 Wat Yai Chaimongkon (Ayut- Mercure Bangkok Siam, 142
thaya), 162 Metropolitan, 142–143
U Websites, 166, 177 Montien Riverside Hotel,
Uthai’s Gems, 77 Wichai Prasit Fort, 58 143
Wine bars, 121–122 Novotel Bangkok, 143
Wine Connection Deli & The Peninsula, 143–144
V Bistro, 122 Phranakorn Nornlen, 144
Vaccinations, 173
Wine Loft, 122 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G,
VAT refunds, 77
Wong’s Place, 118 144
Velothailand, 132
World Film Festival of Queen’s Garden Resort at
Vesper Cocktail Bar &
Bangkok, 165 River View, 144
Restaurant, 118
WWII Museum (Kanchana- Refill Now, 144
Villa Market, 76
buri), 149 Rose Hotel, 144
Vimanmek Palace, 13,
Royal River Kwai Resort &
22–23, 87
Vipassana Meditation, 48 Y Spa (Kanchanaburi), 151
Yaowarat Road, 65–66 Shanghai Mansion, 144
Visakha Bucha, 165
Shangri-La Hotel, 145
Visas, 171–172
Sheraton Grande
Z Sukhumvit, 145
W Zen, 75
Siam Heritage, 145
Wai (traditional greeting), 6 Zoo, Dusit, 43–44, 88
Silom Serene, 145
Wang Derm Palace, 58 Ztudio Live Hall, 121
Siri Sathorn, 145
Wang Na Palace, 21 The Sukhothai, 145–146
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), Accommodations Swissôtel Nai Lert Park, 146
4, 15, 16, 58 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Tower Club at lebua,
Wat Benchamabophit Resort, 138 141–142
(Marble Temple or Anantara Siam Bangkok, 138 Triple Two Silom, 146
Wat Ben), 39 Arun Residence, 138
Wat Bowon Niwet, 38 Bannkunpra Guesthouse
Restaurants
Wat Chakkrawat, 64 (Ayutthaya), 162
An An Lao, 94
Wat Chana Songkhram, The Banyan Tree, 138
Appia, 94
38–39 BelAire Bangkok, 138–139
Baan Khanitha, 94
Water Bar, 118 Best Western Swana Bang-
Baan Phra Arthit, 14
Wat Intara Wihan, 39 kok, 139
Ban Wacharachai (Ayut-
Wat Kanlayanamit, 58 Bossotel Inn, 139
thaya), 162
Wat Mahathat, 37–38, 48 Buddy Lodge, 139
Bei Otto, 94
Wat Mahathat (Ayutthaya), Chakrabongse Villas, 139
Benjarong, 95
161 Charlie House, 139–140
Biscotti, 95
Wat Mangkol Kamalawat Conrad Bangkok, 140
Blue Elephant, 95–96
(Leng Noi Yee Temple), 64 Convenient Resort, 140
Bourbon Street Restaurant
Wat Pak Nam, 49 Diamond House, 140
& Oyster Bar, 96
Wat Pho, 5, 19, 20, 48 Dusit Thani, 140
Breeze, 96
Wat Phra Chetuphon, 19 Dusit Thani Pattaya, 157
Bruno’s (Pattaya), 158
Wat Phra Kaew Museum, 13 The Eugenia, 140
Cabbages & Condoms,
Wat Prayura Wongsawat, Grand China Princess Hotel,
96–97
40, 57 140
Cafe Primavera, 22
Wat Rajaburana, 63 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bang-
The Cedar, 97
Wat Rakhang (Bell kok, 140–141
Chennai Kitchen, 97
Temple), 40, 59 Hotel De’ Moc, 141
Deck by the River, 97
Wat Ratchabophit, 37 ibis Riverside Bangkok, 141
Dosa King, 97
Wat Ratchaburana Ibrik Resort, 141
Eat Me, 98
(Ayutthaya), 161 InterContinental, 141
Gaggan, 98
Wat Ratchanatdaram, 4, 38 JW Marriott, 141
Glow, 98
Wat Ratchapradit, 37 Kasem Island Resort (Kan-
Wat Saket, 36 chanaburi), 151
183
Grand China Princess Le Normandie, 100–101 Scoozi, 106
Index
Hotel, 64 Long Table., 101–102 Shangarila Restaurant, 106
Harmonique, 98 In Love, 99 Shiro, 106
Harrods Tea Room, 26 MahaNaga, 102 Sirocco, 106
Hemlock, 98 Mango Tree, 102 Smith, 106
Hua Seng Hong, 98–99 The Manohra, 102–103 Smokin’ Pug, 106
Indian Hut, 99 May Kaidee, 103 Somboon Seafood, 106
Issaya Siamese Club, 99 Mezzaluna, 103 Standard Sweets &
Kai Yang Boran, 99 Nahm, 103–104 Restaurant, 63
Koi, 100 New York Steakhouse, 104 Suan Thip, 107
Kuaytiaw Reua Tha Siam, Ramentei, 104 Tang Jai Yoo, 107
100 Ranee’s Guesthouse, 104 Tapas Cafe, 107
Kuppa, 100 Rang Mahal, 104 Thip Samai, 107
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Rasa Khas, 105 Thiptara, 107–108
Bangkok, 100 Roti-Mataba, 105 22 Kitchen & Bar, 108
Le Banyan, 100 Rub Aroon Cafe, 21 Wittalai Nai Wang Ying, 87
Le Bouchon, 100 Ruen Mallika, 105 You & Mee, 108
Le Dalat, 100 Sala Rim Nam, 23, 124, 130
184
Photo Credits
Photo Credits
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