Professional Documents
Culture Documents
10 1 1 979 3883
10 1 1 979 3883
Kwon, Hae-Sook
Professor, Fashion Design Major, College of Design, SangMyung University
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants
design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials.
For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements
and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed.
For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang
Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph
album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that
could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze
the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern,
2
color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and χ -test
were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data.
The results were as follows. ;
(1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed
by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in
the type of men's pants pattern between each decade.
(2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The
colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as
follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black,
green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi
color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s.
(3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due
to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared
not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style.
(4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The
silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are
as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most
prevailed throughout the whole four decades.
(5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of
men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most
prevailed throughout the whole four decades.
Key Words : Change of men's pants design, Fashion magazine and pictorials,
Men's fashion advertisement, Men's pants design elements
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Kwon, Hae-Sook / The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998
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Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6
since the western style of men's fashion was and ivy style and continental style began to
introduced, there have been significantly less compromise from the midterm. In early 60s,
research in men's wear than in women's wear. the lapel of men's jacket was wider than
Furthermore, most researches conducted in this 50s'ivy style jacket and the length of pants
topic have focused on historical reviews of was getting shorter than in the 50s and
literature. Therefore, it will be meaningful to straight or mambo style for pants was in
study the men's fashion designs which vogue. The fashion-oriented young person
appeared in magazine advertisements because preferred the continental style of flared
11)
these are easy to use pictorial materials. silhouette in both jacket and pants.
Major items of men's wear are jacket, pants The 'youth movement' occurred all around the
and inner wear. The historical change of world and young-fashion appeared. As a result,
10)
men's jacket design has been studied , Mods & Minette styles became widely favored.
however, the study on men's pants design The jacket style, tightly fitted to the body without
has not been observed. The main purpose of a collar was popular, and the color and pattern
this research is to analyze the men's wear were magnificent by the influence of 'peacock
12)
designs which were exposed in magazine revolution'.
advertisements and pictorials using a content
analysis method and then empirically investigate 2) Development period (1970s)
the change of modern men's pants design in
It was the period of mass production, mass
Korea. The range of the study is from the
consumption, and that the concept of 'fashion'
1960s when modernization in men's fashion
was introduced to men's wear.
began to the late 1990s. This period will be
In this period, consumers gradually preferred
divided into four stages. The men's wear
'ready to wear' and their interests towards
designs which appeared in magazine
sexual equality made unisex & pluralized dress
advertisements and pictorials of each period 13)
increased. As early conservative style was
will be examined and compared each of the
influenced by the youth culture, the style shifted
four stages.
to more progressive and liberal style from the
14)
late 70s. The older generation enjoyed the
II. Theoretical Background style with natural shoulder and loosely fitted
silhouette, otherwise, the young generation
preferred the italian style or the continental
1. The change of men's fashion
style which waist was slim and the width of
from the 1960s and the 1990. 15)
men's pants was getting wider. Also casual
wears appeared and expressed more various
1) Introduction period (1960s)
designs and colors.
1960's was the time of generalization of Worldwide, young fashion settled in 1970s.
western style and young fashion in men's wear. The soft-look grew popular and various styles of
During this period, ivy style was prevailed casual wears and sub-culture styles, such as
which was in vogue in the 50s and conservative punk and hippy, took over as the new fashion
16)
style was preferred than fashion-oriented style rather than the standardized design of the suit.
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Kwon, Hae-Sook / The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998
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Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6
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Kwon, Hae-Sook / The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998
605 95 41 1 5 1 8 756
Total
(80.03) (12.57) (5.42) (0.13) (0.66) (0.13) (1.06) (100.0)
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Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6
difference in color of men's pants between and jacket, however, the order of color
decades.(χ2 = 279.98, df=16, p<.001) occurrence in men's pants is little different
The colors in men's pants can be divided from the order of occurrence in men's jacket
into nine categories and the order of that was multi-color(22.33%), blue(22.00%),
occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the gray(20.38%), brown(16.50%), black(8.89%),
most frequently shown(20.82%) and followed green(3.23%), pink(2.75%), and red(1.13%).
by brown(20.14%), gray(18.22%), blue(17.67%),
black(14.25%), green(3.84%), pink(2.88%), 3. Length of Men's Pants
yellow(1.64%), and red(0.55%). More various
colors appeared over the period, however, There is no significant difference in the
multi color was the most popular in all length of men's pants between each decade
2
decades but in the 60s. as presented in <Table 4>.(χ = 1.51, df=3,
Examining the result periodically, gray was p<.679) It may because that the pants style
the most frequently used in the 60s(70%), occupied more than 96%, therefore, there
and multi-color in the 70s(81.82%) and might be little possibility to change with the
80s(22.12%), and brown in the 90s(20.41%). change of time.
Like thus, the main color of men's pants was Although the frequency of occurrence was
changed in each decade but in the 70s and not high enough, the shorts style appeared
the 80s. With this result, multi-color, brown, not only in sports wear and casual wear but
blue and gray and black colors are identified also in suit style during the 90s. This result
as the main colors in men's pants during last seems to be affected by sports wear
four decades. popularity of men's fashion in the 90s.
Comparing the above result with the result
31)
of previous research , it is found that the
main colors are the same in both men's pants
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Kwon, Hae-Sook / The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998
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Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6
Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was colors are identified as the main colors in
the most prevailed throughout the whole four men's pants. The main colors in both men's
decades but in the 70s. It may be because pants are the same in men's jacket, however,
that non-existence of turn-up style pants was the order of color occurrence shows little
more suitable for Korean men who were different.
comparatively shorter than western men. (3) As full length of pants style occupied
more than 96% throughout all four decades,
there was no significant difference in
Ⅴ. Conclusions categories of men's pants length between
each decade. Due to the popularity of sports
The main purpose of this study was to wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the
examine the change of men's fashion pants shorts style appeared not only in sports wear
design which showed in fashion magazines and casual wear but also in suit style.
and pictorials from 1962 to 1998. Results are (4) There is a significant difference in
as follows; silhouette of men's pants between decades.
(1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed The silhouette of men's pants were divided
throughout the last four decades just like in into four types and their order of occurrence
men's jacket and followed by stripe, check are as follows; basic(69.35%), baggy(22.28%),
that are the main patterns in men's pants fitted(6.87%), and loose silhouette(1.51%).
from 1962 to 1998. As solid pattern occupied Basic silhouette was the most prevailed
more than 80%, there was no significant throughout the whole four decades. Although,
difference in the type of men's pants pattern the most prevailed silhouette of men's jacket
between each decade. More solid and stripe had been changed each decade, silhouette in
pattern were used in men's pants than in men's pants had not been changed a lot. It
men's jacket, and almost same rate of check may be because that basic silhouette of
pattern was used in both men's pants and pants could be easily matched with any kind
jacket. of jacket silhouette.
(2) It showed a significant difference in (5) A significant difference was shown in
colors of men's pants between decades. the existence or non-existence of turn-up of
Multi-color, brown, blue and gray and black men's pants between decades. Non-existence
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Kwon, Hae-Sook / The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998
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Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6
, Dongkook university, master's thesis, p.39. 25) Park Yungbae(1990). “Effects of Appealing
14) Tate, S, L,(1989), “Inside fashion design, Type in Advertisement, Product Involvement,
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16) Kwon Haewook(1999), ibid., p.29. apparel advertisement in magazines and
17) Lee Hojung(1997), ibid., p.111. it's relationship with clothing involvement."
18) Kwon Haewook(1999). ibid., p.29. sungshin women's university. master's
19) Ibid, p.31. thesis
20) Ryu Songok, Kwon Haewook(1996), “A 27) Her Keumsook(1992). “A Study on Consumer
study on the change of Korean modern Appeal on Fashion Advertisements Dept”,
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Humanities research institute, SKKU, P. 28) Hong Sungsoon(1994), “The Type of
292 Appeal and Constituent unit's Expression of
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Korea Federation of Textile Industries, 12, thesis
P.44 29) Kim Jongsoon(1997), “A study on the
22) Shim Sungwook(1996), “A Methodological strategy of advertising media considering
Study for Analysis of Advertising Figuness”. the types of consumers in men's wear
Dept. Hankuk University, master's thesis, marker”, Seoul national university of
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23) Yoo Boongro(1991). “New Advertisement 30) Kwon Haewook(1999). ibid, p.89-91.
- theory and strategy-”, Ilzoak, pp.189- 31) Ibid, pp.92-96.
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24) Kim Junhee(1997), “A Study on Advertising 33) Meot,1991, October, p.224.
Text in Korean Magazines (1955~1995)”.
Hankuk university, master's thesis
Received 10 August 2006, Accepted 20 October 2006.
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