M6044

>> MEN’S SHIRTS

02
FABRIC &
SIZE CHART

04
CUTTING
LAYOUTS

08
PATTERN
MARKINGS

09
GLOSSARY

10
SEWING
INSTRUCTIONS
 M6044 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

Find the Perfect Fit!

THINGS YOU NEED:
>> Shirt A: Seven 1/2” Buttons. Shirt B,C: Nine 1/2” Buttons.
Shirt D,E: Eleven 1/2” Buttons.
6044

FRONT SUGGESTED FABRICS:

FRENTE >> Lt.Wt. Fabrics, Cotton, Cotton Blends, Chambray, Silk
Rayon, Washed Silk and Denim. Allow extra fabric to
match stripes, plaids and one-way design fabrics.

A E

B&C D
BACK
ESPALDA

A B&C D E

SIZE CHARTS

YARDAGE CHARTS

SIZES S M L XL XXL XXXL

34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
SHIRT A
45"*** 17/8 2 2 21/2 25/8 25/8 yds.
60"*** 13/8 11/2 15/8 17/8 2 2 yds.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING A
18", 20" - 7/8 yd.
SHIRT B
45"*** 21/4 23/8 23/8 25/8 23/4 27/8 yds.
60"*** 15/8 13/4 13/4 21/8 21/4 21/4 yds.
CONTRAST B (INSIDE CUFF & COLLAR BAND)
45", 60"*** 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8 3/4 3/4 yds.
SHIRT C
45"*** 21/4 23/8 21/2 27/8 27/8 3 yds.
60"*** 13/4 13/4 13/4 21/8 21/4 21/4 yds.

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 2

 M6044 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

SIZES S M L XL XXL XXXL

34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
FUSIBLE INTERFACING B, C
18", 20" - 7/8 yd.
SHIRT D
45"*** 21/4 23/8 21/2 27/8 27/8 3 yds.
60"*** 13/4 13/4 13/4 21/8 21/4 21/4 yds.
SHIRT E
45"*** 23/4 23/4 27/8 31/8 31/8 31/4 yds.
60"*** 2 21/8 21/4 21/2 21/2 21/2 yds.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING D, E
18", 20" - 7/8 yd.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

SIZES S M L XL XXL XXXL

34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
WIDTH, LOWER EDGE
SHIRT A ,B, C, D, E 40 44 48 52 56 60 in.
BACK LENGTH FROM BASE OF YOUR NECK
SHIRT A, B, C, D, E 291/2 30 301/2 31 311/2 32 in.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

SIZES S M L XL XXL XXXL

34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
CHEST 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56 in.
WAIST 28-30 32-34 36-39 42-44 46-48 50-52 in.

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 3

 M 6 0 4 4 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S

Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step!

PIECES (13)
SHIRT A,B,C,D,E
1 Pocket
2 Front
13 PATTERN PIECES
3 Flap D,E 13 PIEZAS DE PATRON
4 Yoke Front E
3
1 4E 5
5 Yoke Back E DE E 8 9
2 6 BCDE BCDE
6 Back
7 Sleeve A 7A 10
8 Sleeve Front B,C,D,E BCDE 11
12 13

9 Sleeve Back B,C,D,E

10 Cuff B,C,D,E
11 Front Band
12 Collar
13 Collar Band

CUTTING AND MARKING

>> SHRINK FABRIC if not labeled pre-shrunk. Press.
>> CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width.
>> Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface
shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used.
>> For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD), fold fabric with right sides together.
>> *DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD), for fabrics with nap, fold fabric A B
crosswise, right sides together. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of
fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place
over lower layer, right sides together (B).
>> For SINGLE THICKNESS, place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics,
place pile side down.)

>> Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Pin.
(Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.)
>> Cut accurately, cutting notches outward.
>> Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and
Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be
thread traced.
NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided.
>> Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type.
>> Fold fabric with right sides together, matching SELVAGES.
>> Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears.
MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 4
 M 6 0 4 4 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S

SHIRT A FUSIBLE INTERFACING A

USE PIECES: 1, 2, 6, 7, 11, 12 & 13 USE PIECES: 11, 12 & 13 SELVAGE
12
45” (115 CM) 18”,20” (46,51 CM)
13
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGE
SIZES S-M-L 11 FOLD
SELVAGES
12
2 18" **
11
SHIRT B
6044 FUSIBLE INTERFACING [A]
7 Size XXXL
Plot 1019
6
13 1
USE PIECES: 1, 2, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13
FOLD
45” (115 CM)
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
45" */**
6044 SHIRT [A]
SIZES S-M-L
Size L SELVAGES
Plot 1004
12
45” (115 CM) 11 2 9
1
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
6 10 8
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL
13 FOLD
SELVAGE

45" */**
11 SELVAGES 7 6044 SHIRT [B]
Size L
Plot 1024
2 1 7
45” (115 CM)
6 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
SELVAGE
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL
12 FOLD 13 FOLD

SELVAGES
45" */** 11
6044 SHIRT [A] 2 9
Size XXXL 10
60” (150 CM)
Plot 1001
12
6 8
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP 1
SIZES S-M-L 13 FOLD

SELVAGES 12 60” (150

45" */**
CM)
WITH6044
OR
Size XXXL
WITHOUT
SHIRT [B] NAP
2 Plot 1021
SIZES S-M-L
13
1 11 SELVAGES
11 7
6 12
13
2 9
FOLD 1 10

6 8
60”
60" (150
*/** CM)
6044 OR SHIRT [A] FOLD
WITH WITHOUT NAP
Size L
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL
Plot 1016
60” (150 CM)
60" */**
SELVAGE WITH OR WITHOUT
6044 SHIRT [B] NAP
Size L
1 SIZES
Plot 1035XL-XXL-XXXL
SELVAGES
7 7 SELVAGES
2
SELVAGE 8 2
1
11 13
13 6 12
12 6 9
FOLD FOLD 10
11 FOLD

60" */**
6044 SHIRT [A]
Size XXXL 60" */**
Plot 1009 6044 SHIRT [B]
Size XXXL MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 5
Plot 1032
 M 6 0 4 4 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S

CONTRAST B (INSIDE CUFF & COLLAR BAND) FUSIBLE INTERFACING B,C

USE PIECES: 10 & 13 SELVAGE USE PIECES: 10, 11, 12 & 13
45”,60” (115,150 CM) 13 18”,20” (46,51 CM)
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES
ALL SIZES SELVAGE
13
12
10
SELVAGE
SELVAGE 11 FOLD
10 FOLD

SHIRT C 45" */** SHIRT

18" **
Size XXXL D
6044 FUSIBLE INTERFACING [B,C]
6044 CONTRAST [B] (Cuff & Collar Band) Plot 1056
USE PIECES: 1, 2, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13Size XXXL
Plot 1038 USE PIECES: 1, 2, 3, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13
45” (115 CM) 45” (115 CM)
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
SIZES S-M-L SIZES S-M-L
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
12 9
2 12 9
11 11 2
13 13
6 10 8
1 6 8 3
1
FOLD
10 FOLD

45" */**
6044 SHIRT [C] 45" */**
Size L 45” (115 CM)[D]
6044 SHIRT
Plot 1047 Size L
WITHPlotOR
1061WITHOUT NAP
45” (115 CM) SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL SELVAGES 13
11
13 SELVAGES 10 2 9
11 10
10 2 9 6 8
1
FOLD 12 3
6 8
1 10
12 FOLD
60” (150
45" */** CM)
6044 SHIRT [D]
WITH OR
Size XXXLWITHOUT NAP
60” (150
45" */** CM) Plot 1058
6044 SHIRT [C] SIZES S-M-L
WITHSizeORXXXLWITHOUT NAP
Plot 1042 SELVAGES
SIZES S-M-L
11
2 9
SELVAGES 11 13
1 10
2 12
9 6 8 3
13 10
1 FOLD
12
6 8
60”60"
(150
*/** CM)
FOLD 6044 SHIRT [D]
Size L
WITH
Plot OR
1067 WITHOUT NAP
60” (150 CM) SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL
WITH60"OR*/** WITHOUT NAP
6044 SHIRT [C] SELVAGES
SIZESSize
XL-XXL-XXXL
L
Plot 1053
8 2 10
SELVAGES
13
8 2 10 12
6 9 1 3
13
12
11 FOLD
6 9 1

11 FOLD
60" */**
6044 SHIRT [D]
Size XXXL
Plot 1064
60" */**
6044 SHIRT [C]
Size XXXL
Plot 1050
MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 6
 M 6 0 4 4 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S

SHIRT E
USE PIECES: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13
45” (115 CM) SELVAGE
10 SELVAGES
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP 5
SIZES S-M-L 11 2 13 SELVAGE
12
1
6 9 8 4
FOLD FOLD 3

45" */**
6044 SHIRT [E]
45” (115 CM) Size L
Plot 1073
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP 13 SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL 11 5
10 2 10 SELVAGE
1
3 4
6 8
9
FOLD 12 FOLD

45" */**
60” (150 CM) 6044 SHIRT [E]
Size XXXL SELVAGE
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SELVAGES
Plot 1070
SIZES S-M-L 5 SELVAGE
2 12
9
4 13 10
8 1
6
3
FOLD 11 FOLD

60" */**
6044 SHIRT [E]
Size L
60” (150 CM) Plot 1081
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL 5
8 2 SELVAGE
10
9
1 13
6 4 12

FOLD 3 11 FOLD

60" */**
FUSIBLE INTERFACING
6044 SHIRT [E]
Size XXXL D,E
Plot 1077
USE PIECES: 3, 10, 11, 12 & 13
18”,20” (46,51 CM)
ALL SIZES
SELVAGE 3
13
12
10
SELVAGE
FOLD 11

18" **
6044 FUSIBLE INTERFACING [D,E]
Size XXXL
Plot 1084

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 7

 M 6 0 4 4 > > PAT T E R N M A R K I N G S

GRAIN LINES
to place on
SYMBOLS
straight grain of
for matching
fabric parallel to
seams and
selvage or fold
construction
details

FOLD LINE
to place on
fold of fabric

LENGTHEN &
SHORTEN LINES
two parallel lines
where you make the
pattern piece longer
or shorter NOTCHES
single or double
triangular
markings used
for matching
pieces together

TO SHORTEN
to crease along
adjustment line; make
a fold half the amound
needed; tape in place

TO LENGTHEN
to slash between
adjustment lines;
spread amount as
needed, keeping
edges parallel;
tape over paper
refers to circumference of
SEAM
ALLOWANCE
the measurement
used to turn up
your hem
MEASUREMENTS
indicates Bustline,
Waistline, Hip or Biceps;
finishined garment

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 8

 M6044 >> GLOSSARY

The following terms appear in BOLD TYPE throughout your sewing instructions!

>> EDGESTITCH >> STAYSTITCH

Stitch close to finished edge or seam. Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance
(usually 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).

>> NARROW HEM

Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if necessary. >> TOPSTITCH
Open out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or
crease; press. Turn in along crease; stitch. previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or
stitch where indicated in instructions.

>> SLIPSTITCH
Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a
thread of underneath fabric.

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 9

 M6044 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

SEAM ALLOWANCES:
>> Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise
indicated.
>> Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching
notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams.
>> Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise
stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
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SHIRT A,B,C,D,E
NOTE: The first view mentioned will be illustrated, unless otherwise indicated.
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Interfacing
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Trim corners from INTERFACING sections, as

shown. Fuse to wrong side of each matching
FABRIC section, following manufacturer’s
instructions. (NOTE: For View B, DO NOT
interfaced CUFF and COLLAR BAND sections cut
from Contrast Fabric.)

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 0

Pockets, Front and Back
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Turn in 1/4”(6mm) on upper edge of POCKET (1);

press.

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Turn upper edge to outside along foldline; stitch

ends. Trim, as shown.

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Turn upper edge of pocket to inside, turning

in remaining seam allowances and diagonally
folding corners. Press.

Baste close to inner pressed edge.

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TOPSTITCH along basting.



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Views A,B,C: Pin pocket to left FRONT (2),


matching symbols. EDGESTITCH in place along
side and lower edges, reinforcing upper ends.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 1

 Views D,E:

Pin pockets to FRONT (2) sections, matching

symbols. EDGESTITCH in place along side and
lower edges, reinforcing upper ends.

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For each flap, stitch one interfaced FLAP (3)

section to uninterfaced flap section in a
3/8”(1cm) seam, leaving upper edge open.

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Turn flap right side out; press. Baste raw edges

together. EDGESTITCH and TOPSTITCH along
finished edges of flap.

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Make buttonhole in flap at marking.

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Pin flap (interfaced side down) to front, placing

seamline along placement line. Baste. Stitch
along seamline. Trim flap seam allowance to a
scant 1/4”(6mm), being careful not to cut front.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 2

 Turn flap down; press. EDGESTITCH and
TOPSTITCH upper edge of flap, through all
thicknesses.

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View E:

Turn in 3/8”(1cm) seam allowance on lower edge

of YOKE FRONT (4), folding in fullness at corner;
press.

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Pin wrong side of yoke front to right side of front,

placing pressed edge along placement line and
having raw edges even. Baste. EDGESTITCH and
TOPSTITCH along pressed edge.

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Turn in 3/8”(1cm) seam allowance on lower edge

of YOKE BACK (5), folding in fullness at corner;
press.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 3

 Pin wrong side of yoke back to right side of
BACK (6), placing pressed edge along placement
line and having raw edges even. Baste.
EDGESTITCH and TOPSTITCH along pressed
edge.

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All Views: Stitch BACK (6) and front sections


together at shoulders.

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Sleeves and Side Seams

View A:

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With right sides together, pin SLEEVE (7) to

armhole edge, placing large circle at shoulder
seam. Baste. Stitch, easing sleeve slightly to fit.
Stitch again 1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance.
Trim close to stitching. Press seam toward sleeve.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 4

 Pin front sections and back together at sides; pin
sleeve edges together. Stitch in one continuous
seam. Stitch again along curve.

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Turn up 1-1/4”(3.2cm) sleeve hem. Baste close to

fold. Turn in 1/4”(6mm) on raw edge. Baste hem in
place close to upper edge. Press.

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TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 5

 Views B,C,D,E:

Stitch SLEEVE FRONT (8) and SLEEVE BACK (9)

together, leaving open below large circle.

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Make 5/8”(1.5cm) NARROW HEM at sleeve

opening, tapering hem to nothing above large
circle. Pivot across seam allowance 1/4”(6mm)
above large circle when stitching.

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With right sides together, pin sleeve to armhole

edge, placing large circle at shoulder seam.
Baste. Stitch, easing sleeve slightly to fit. Stitch
again 1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance. Trim
close to stitching. Press seam toward sleeve.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 6

 Pin front sections and back together at sides; pin
sleeve edges together. Stitch in one continuous
seam. Stitch again along curve.

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To make pleat at lower edge of sleeve, on

outside, crease along line of small circles. Bring
crease to line of large circles; baste. Baste across
lower edge.

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Turn in seam allowance on notched edge of

uninterfaced CUFF (10) sections; press. Trim
pressed seam allowance to 3/8”(1cm).

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Stitch uninterfaced cuff sections to interfaced

cuff sections, leaving notched edge open. Trim.

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Turn cuff right side out. Press.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 7

 Pin cuff to sleeve, placing small and large circle
at opening edges. Stitch, keeping pressed edge
free. Trim. Press seam toward cuff.

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SLIPSTITCH pressed edge over seam.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Views B,C: EDGESTITCH all edges of cuff, as


shown.

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Views D,E: EDGESTITCH cuff along seam and


outer edge. TOPSTITCH outer edge, as shown.

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All Views: Make 5/8”(1.5cm) NARROW HEM at


lower edge.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 8

Front Band, Collar and Collar Band
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Turn in seam allowance on long unnotched edge

of FRONT BAND (11). Press. Trim pressed seam
allowance to 3/8”(1cm).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pin front band to front; stitch. Trim. Press seam

toward front band.

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Turn lower edge of front band self facing to

outside along foldline. Stitch end. Trim.

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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 9

 Turn self facing to inside along foldline and
seam; press. SLIPSTITCH inner pressed edge
over seam. Baste across upper edge.

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EDGESTITCH front band along seam and outer


edge. TOPSTITCH lower edge, connecting with
previous stitching, as shown.

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STAYSTITCH neck edge.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stitch COLLAR (12) sections together, leaving

edge with symbols open. Trim.

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Views A,B,C: Turn collar right side out; press.


Baste raw edges together. EDGESTITCH finished
edges.

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Views D,E: Turn collar right side out; press.

Baste raw edges together. EDGESTITCH and
TOPSTITCH finished edges.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 20

 Turn in seam allowance on single notched edge
of uninterfaced COLLAR BAND (13) section.
Press, easing in fullness. Trim pressed seam
allowance to 3/8”(1cm).

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Pin uninterfaced side of collar to interfaced collar

band between small circles. Pin uninterfaced
collar band over collar; baste. Stitch, leaving
neck edge open. Trim.

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Turn. Press.

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Pin collar band to neck edge, clipping shirt neck

edge where necessary. Stitch, keeping pressed
edge free. Trim. Press seam toward collar band.

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SLIPSTITCH pressed edge over seam.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDGESTITCH all edges of collar band, as shown.



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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 21

Finishing
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Make buttonholes in left front band and collar

band at markings.

Sew buttons to right front band and collar band

at markings.

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Views B,C,D,E:

51
 Make buttonholes in cuffs at markings.

Sew buttons to cuffs at markings.

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Views D,E:

52
 Make buttonholes in flaps at markings.

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53
 Sew buttons to pockets at markings.

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 22

 Congrats!
You've completed your sewing adventure!

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