Spreading Mode: There are four different ways fabric can be spread NOW FOW Nap One Way & face One Way spreading. Most common spreading method that can also be done manually. Generally fabric roll is kept on a roller stand (as shown in pic.) and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from ‘freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table. Here fabric roll remain Stationery. While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine caries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process. Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called as “dead heading” Z42éLeeez 44442227 LELL L477 LLLLL DDL NEW F/F Nap either way & face to face spreading. The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine. Difficult to achieve manually. The machine carry the fabric roll while the end Is being held in place by catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just fokled and held by another catcher while the fabric 's being laid by the machine duting it’s return movement also. PITA TI TT Ts - LLAP RP Dt OTTO LTT. LLLE LILY NOW FF Nap one-way F/F spreading. Most time consuming method of spreading. The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process. At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degiee and return back to starting position without spreading (i.e. dead heading). Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face. SITS wees Lele poe peeNEW FOW Nap either way & face one way spreading. The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process. At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this spreading mode Schilty ences Sing 24222072 SSA SARL 442L LASALLE Garment Type: Garments can be classified into two ways. 1. Mirror Image or One-Way garment: According to motif placements ie. if the motifs (be it print or check) in right and left panel of garments are mirror image to each other (keeping mirror at center front) then it is called mirror image. If motifs (be it print or check) in right and left panel of garments are continuous type (i.0. similar to fabric) then it is called one-way. Majority of garments made commercially are one- way type 2. Symmetric and Asymmetric garment: According to right and left pattern component size/shape. If the size or shape of right and left component differs from each other then garment is called asymmetric garments. For example in double-breasted jacket left and right front differ from each other in size and shape. Even a men's shirt may be asymmetric garment based on front placket type. Pattern Type: According to the symmetry of pattern components those can be classified into 4 types Patter type influences the pattern placement in a marker. 1. When we cut the patiem into lengthwise or widthwise both are symmetric, example are rectangular cuff, rectangular pocket etc. 2. When we cut the pattern lengthwise it is symmetric but if we cut widthwise it is asymmetric, Example is back of men’s shirt. 3. When we cut the pattern longthwise it is asymmetric but if we cut widthwise it is symmetric, Example is back yoke of men's shirt. 4 When we cut the pattern into lengthwise or widthmise both are asymmetric. Example is fronts of men's shirtFabric classification, garment types and spreading modes | Code | Fabric Type NOW | NEW Garment NOW | NEW |__| Both faces dissimilar Types FiF | FOW __| Warpwise Stripe ~ [Symmetiic [Yes [Yes | Yes | Yes Symmetric a ‘Asymmetric [Yes [No [No |Yes | Warpwise Stripe [Symmetric [Yes [Yes [Yes [No Asymmetric Asymmetnc |Yes [No [No [No | s LY. [nN 0 Weltwise Stripe "| Symmetric [Yes _|Yes | Yes | Yes _| ‘Asymmetric |Yes |No |No | Yes | Weftwise Stripe ~ [Symmetric [Yes | No No | pi Asymmetric _ Asymmetric_| Yes No | No Warpwise Stripe Symmetric +| Symmetric [Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes _| Weltwise Stripe Symmetric ___[Asymmetic [Yes [No | No | Yes Warpwise Stipe Asymmetric + | Symmetric |Yes [Yes | Yes |No LC | Wertwise Stripe Symmetric | Asymmetric [Yes [No | No | No ____|Warpwise Stripe Symmetric +| Symmetric [Ves [No [Yes [No _| Weltwise Strine Asymmetric [Asymmetric _|Yes [No |No | No __| Warpwise Stripe Asymmetric + | Symmetric | Yes _| Nc Yes |No | Weftwise Stripe Asymmetric Asymmetiic [Yes [No | No No Marker Mode: Alll pattern component has top and bottom portion, this is based on while the garment is worn which portion of the garment is at top and which portion at bottom. For example in a shirt front pattern shoulder line is top and hemline is bottom. Based on top and bottom every pattern has ‘nap’ direction (widthwise symmetric pattern component effectively has no ‘nap’ direction). While arranging pattern components in marker, depending on ‘nap’ direction marker can be classified into three categories.Nap One Way marker: All patien components are placed in one ‘nap’ direction 2. Nap Either Way marker In a multi-size/multi-garment marker when patiern componenis within a single size are kept in opposite ‘nap! direction 3. Nap Up & Down marker: in a multi-size/multi garment marker when all patiern components of one size are kept one ‘nap’ direction but all pattern components of a different size are kept in opposite ‘nap’ direction. Different Spreading Mode and Different Spreading Parameters Spreading NOWFOW | NEWFIF NOWFIF [NEWFOW Parameters - - L __| Manual Spreading | Possible Difficult Impossible _| Impossible Mechanised Possible Possible Possible | Possible | Spreading . Dead-Heading Yes No Yes No | Tum-table Not Required Not Required | Required | Required Cutting at layend | Required Not Required | Required | Required Spreading time Second Slowest | Fastest Slowest Second l _ Fastest