PHOTOGRAPHY

FASHION 9000134140171
OKKIR NORA

A Brief History
of Fashion
Photography
It is believed that fashion photography as a genre of
photographic art was born in the XIX century, thanks to
fashion magazines such as La mode practique (1898),
Harper Bazar (1867) and Vogue (1892). These magazines
were in turn established due to the achievements made in
the field of photography and screen printing. They used
pictures instead of trendy prints on the pages of their
magazines, the editors tried to beat the competition on
one hand, and on the other to draw attention of the
general public to the style and the selection of clothing
that was offered to them. In this mission, the editors were
helped by photographers, many of whom have become
famous in the field of fashion photography through this
sort of cooperation. By the 20th century fashion
photography has acquired a new status with the
extraordinary rise of public interest. Designer shows and
display collections become mega-events in the fashion
world.
Until the late 30s the center fashion and fashion
photography was Paris. The French capital attracted
famous photographers of the time from all over the world.
Many German photographers were moving to Paris,
including Adolf de Meyer, who is also considered as one of
the pioneers of fashion photography, Horst P. Horst and
George Hoyningen-Huene, who worked for Vogue. Soon
after the WWII started, the race of fashion photography
was picked up by New York City, the birthplace of fashion
magazines. Many received notoriety in the “Big Apple” (the
nickname of the city of New York), such as Edward
Steichen, Cecil Beaton, and a Hungarian photographer
Martin Mukanshi. Mukanshi was the first person to
introduce motion in fashion photography, which until that
time was based purely on static and stereotypical poses.
Any picture – is a philosophy of its own, and fashion
photography is no exception. A photograph in the fashion
industry itself is unique, because it combines both
documentary and artistic work. Roland Barthes, the
French philosopher, in his book “Fashion System” has
proposed to look at the world as a background, when
referred to fashion photography. This background can be
converted into a certain semantic statement. Setting
sense of fashion keeps a delicate balance between
seriousness and a certain quirkiness.
According to
Barthes, fashion
photography has three
general trends. First –
this is the literal
representation as
photos in the catalog,
depicting clothing. The
second is associated
with romanticized
demonstration, where
fashion refers to a sort
of history where the real
life becomes art. The
third trend – is a fashion
A Photo of Virginia Oldoini
to the point of absurdity,
where the model is by Adolphe Braun
shown in an irregular situation or an unrealistic
comparison, where there is no romance, no reason, and
the total absurdity reigns. Bart leans to the description of
fashion photography as a certain exorcism in which
everyone wants to achieve an “outrageous” photograph.
Because cameras and printing were an expensive
pleasure, many of the early fashion photographers were
wealthy and educated people. The earliest collection of
fashion photography is considered to be a small book,
published in 1856 by Adolphe Braun, containing 288
photographs of Tuscan noblewoman at the court of
Napoleon III, and the Countess of Castiglione Virginia in a
variety of outfits. In 1909, the Journal Publishers Condé
Nast bought Vogue magazine. He set a goal to make the
magazine one of the most influential in the fashion world.
In order to accomplish this goal he invited a European
photographer Baron Adolf de Meyer for cooperation.
It should be noted that at the time, working for a
fashion publication was considered a betrayal of the
ideals of high art, for the sake of a simple commercial
profit. In 1911, photographer Edward Steichen, supported
by Lucien Vogel, publisher of Jardin des Modes and La
Gazette du Bon Ton, decided to use the photographs to
promote fashion as a fine art. Steichen then took photos
of dresses made for a fashion designer Paul Poiret, which
were published in the April 1911 issue of the magazine Art
et Décoration. Some believe that these photos should
rightly be regarded as the first in history of modern
fashion. In 1932, thanks to cooperation with Steichen, the
cover of Vogue magazine had a colored photo. Since then
the magazine was dedicated exclusively to photography.
Vogue was followed by its rival Harper’s Bazaar. Both
companies were the leaders in the field of fashion
photography during 1920s and 1930s. Vogue in particular
was responsible for the fame of many photographers like
Meyer, Steichen, Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst, Toni Frissell
and many others who transformed the genre of fashion
photography into an outstanding form of art. 1
WHAT IS FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY?
Fashion Photography is a genre of photography which is
devoted to displaying clothing and other fashion items. Fashion
photography is most often conducted for advertisements or
fashion magazines. Over time, fashion photography has
developed its own aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions
are enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or
accessories. With its huge audience, high pay-checks and
glamorous international lifestyle, fashion photography may
seem like one of the world’s most sought-after professions. But
for every fashion photographer who makes it through the door
of a top magazine, a thousand others find their niche fashion
advertising, art photography, celebrity portraiture or even
paparazzi work to make a living.

An Introduction Guide to
Fashion Photography
Fashion photography often refers to taking Freedom & Control
images for advertisement purposes for clothing, As a fashion photographer, you usually end up taking
hair styles, make-up, jewelry, or other fashion direction from a fashion editor or stylist. Taking images for
related products. advertisement and editorial purposes is much different than
taking portrait photos of a family or children.
You typically need a team to be a successful fashion
photographer. Models, assistants, hair and makeup artists, Fashion editors know exactly what they are looking for in a
wardrobe specialist, and just extra sets of eyes and hands in shoot. They usually have their own team of stylists and
general. When you think of fashion photography, think of high- assistants to work with. As the photographer, you are simply
end stylized photo shoots. part of the team. You need to be able to communicate with
them and understand that what you may think works best,
Proper lighting, posing and facial expressions, and creativity all may not for them.  Being able to work with/as a team
play a part in becoming a successful fashion photographer. A player is vital in the fashion industry.
good start would be to look through fashion magazines and
websites and note how the photographers draw attention to a
certain theme or product to capture the viewers
attention.  “Boring” just doesn’t cut it in the fashion
industry“Boring” just doesn’t cut it in the fashion industry.

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 The Gear
Obviously you need a camera. However, keep in mind that
lighting, hair/make-up, and post processing are what makes
or breaks a good fashion photo. You will be moving around
a lot to get different angles so the less bulkier and heavier,
the better

If you can afford it, have a variety of both zoom and prime
lenses. Zoom lenses can come in handy if you are a high-
end fashion show and need to shoot from a distance. A
simple 35mm or 50mm lens is great for shooting in a small
studio, though a lot of fashion photographers do like to
shoot with a longer  85mm lens  for portraits. The best lens
for the job will vary depending on the job itself. Just make
sure you have at least a few options in your bag to make
sure you are covered.

Invest in a speed-light or two. These can be used to bounce

light and add fill light when needed. Umbrellas and a  light
stand  or two also need to be included. Lighting is very
important in fashion photography. The lighting needs to be
flattering to your models and the colors and details need to
be on point. Having a few reflectors on hand is a good idea
also. Invest in a variety of backdrops, and make sure you get
them in different sizes and colors.

Camera Settings
There isn’t a specific set of settings that you should use
in fashion photography. Just as with all photography, it
will depend on what and where you are shooting.
However, you should consider shooting in RAW.
Shooting in RAW will give you much freedom during
post processing.

1. Editing: Editing/Post processing is absolutely

necessary in fashion photography. Whether you just
need to do minor touch ups to remove blemishes,
make white balance adjustments, enhance colors, or
do more in-depth creative edits, you need to either
know your way around Lightroom or Photoshop or
invest in a professional re-toucher to join your team.

2. Assist/Practice: The best way to learn the ropes of fashion photography is to get out and practice. Offer to assist other
fashion photographers for free. This will allow you to see if you are capable of keeping up with the fast pace of working with a
team.

3. Build a Portfolio: Having a portfolio is beneficial regardless of what genre of photography you are shooting. But, it is
especially handy with fashion photography. You need to be able to show potential clients and editors what you are capable
of.Get your own team together and seek out a few models. Rent a studio if needed and work towards building a nice gallery
of images that show your best work. If you take on jobs as an assistant, ask to use some of your images in your portfolio or
galleries.
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Even though you will have to follow direction from others
when doing an actual photo shoot of a client, your input and
advice will also be useful. You need to have a portfolio to
show that you have what it takes to get great images that are
creative, well posed, eye catching and well lit.
Your portfolio is what you will be presenting to editors in
hopes of getting hired. One last thing to keep in mind is that
you may not be the best match for every editor and they may
not be the best match for you. That’s just the reality of the
industry.
Fashion Photography/Image Analysis
Harper's Bazaar (Lucile Brokaw), 1933
Practice, study other fashion photographers’ work, invest in
the proper equipment, and create a portfolio showing off
your skills. Becoming successful as a fashion photographer
requires time, patience, practice, research, proper
equipment, and knowledge. Invest in these things and
create a brand for yourself and you too, could become a
successful fashion photographer.
The image is a portrait format, black
and white print, depicting a young woman
on a beach running across the camera, in a
bathing suit and cape. There is an
exhilarated smile on her face, suggesting
that an informal, spontaneous moment has
been captured by the camera.
The waves behind her and her legs,
are blurred by movement, as though she
will disappear from our eyes in an instant.
The lighting looks like the natural light of
sun on her face, which further emphasises
the look of joy and freedom.
The shadows created on her legs,
serve to accentuate their sporty
shapeliness. Her cape billows behind,
creating a majestic feel to her movements.
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References:
https://dylanmhowell.com/history-fashion-photography/

https://exhibitmag.com/all-about-fashion-photography/

https://contrastly.com/an-introduction-guide-to-fashion-photography/

http://leedslassie-photographycritiques.blogspot.com/2012/01/fashion-
photographyimage-analysis.html