Objective and classification of finishes

Finishes are done to improve the characteristics of the textile materials.

They enhance the feel, touch, texture and lustre of the fabric. Overall they enhances the feel of the
fabric.

They increase the life and durability of the textile.

They also improve the serviceability of the fabric and decide the end use of the textile.

Gives some functionality to the textile like flame retarded, water repellent, etc.

They help in setting of chemicals in the fabric.

Classification of finishes according to the :

nature of the finish

chemical

physical

degree of performance

durable

semi durable

temporary

permanent

performance

aesthetic

functional

milling process is done for the compactness of the fabric especially wool. It can be done wth acid or
alkali. It is a permanent finish. It makes the fabric denser. Make it more efficient for the raising.

In acidic, it is treated with sulphuric acid. And in alkali, it is treated with soda ash and soap solution.

Alkali is suited with unscoured wool. Both milling and scouring i done in one bath to avoid wastage.

Waterproof finishes are the finishes in which restrict the passage of moisture in the fabric.

In this a coating or film is applied of synthetic or natural rubber or plastic like vinyl or polyurethene.

It is uncomfortable to wear. And is mainly used in raincoat, militry products, tents, covers of sleeping
bags.

Different types of calendering

Calendering is the process in which two or more than two rollers are used. From which fabric is passed
at controlled time, pressure, and temperature. This process is done to flatten the fabric anfd to improve
the lustre of the fabric along with the hand and appearance of the fabric

Simple calendering

In this the fabric is passed through high temperature and high pressure pressing roller. This gives the
fabric the required lustre.

Over calendering should be avoided as it make the yarn weak. It is a temperory finish which gets over
after laundering. This is used to give the smooth touch as it flatten the yarns and is recommented for
twill or plain weave.

Glazed calendering

This is used for giving extra lustre to the fabric. . The iron bowl moves with double the speed of fabric
and the 2 lower bowl. It is a semi durable finish. High degree of lustre is produced on one side of thr
fabric.

 Produced by bringing cloth into contact with Heated Polished chilled iron bowl rotated at
double speed than fabric and lower two bowls.

The spaces between the yarns are thus filled up and glazed appearance is obtained

Cire` calendering

Type of glazed calendering. Here the roller moves a a higher speed than ordinary fiction calendering.
Useful for cotten, polyester, nylon, rayon blends.

It become moderately water repellent when there is thermoplastic as the fabric is flattened and there is
a partial fusing. Resin is applied before friction calendering.

Moire` calendering

In this a wood grain like patterns are visible on the fabric. These could be temporary, durable or
permanent. When not treated with resin, it s temporary, when treated with resin it become durable.
And the thermoplastic is permanenrt when treated with the heated roller.

Embossed calendering

3 dimensional prints are formed. Which are permanent when there is thermoplastic. Here the roller
have the embossed design whinch get engraved on th e fabric when ot is passed through it. As it is
heated.

 Embossed patterns of fabrics treated with resins and cured after embossing are durable
Schriener calendering

• In this the roller have the diagonal lines approximately 250 lines per inch which could be seen
with naked eyes. To produce this effect, one of the steel cylinders of the calendar is embossed
with fine diagonal lines.

Finishing is the process done after dying and printing tonthe fabric to improve its end use before
exporting it for the end use.

Objective of finishings

1. To improve the attractiveness and service ability of the textile materials.

2. To accentuate/inhibit some natural characteristics on the textile materials such as softening,

de-lusturing, brightening etc.

3. To change the surface characteristics of textile materials.

4. 4.To impart new characteristics/properties of textile materials such as flame retardant, water
repellent or water proof finishes.

5. 5.To increase life and durability of textile materials.

6. 6.To set the fabric, so that it can be maintained its shape and structure.

7. 7.To set the chemicals into the textile materials.

8. 8.To meet up specific end uses.

9. To produce stronger and more durable fabrics. (stiffening)

10. To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening, etc.(softener, calendaring, stiffening)

11. To cover faults in the original fabric.

12. To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is, make it more attractive or lustrous by
operations like calendering, optical whitening, etc.

13. To impart special properties to the fabric for specific end uses.

14. To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing; EASY CARE
FINISH such as

15. easy wash, quick drying, colour fast, shrinkage, heat setting.

16. 8. To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable.(embossing,
brushing /smoothening)

17. 9. To produce novelty effects.(mercerisation, parchmentisation)

18. 10.To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it shrink resistant, crease resistant or free
from pills and soiling

19. To increase weight of the cloth.(silk degumming )