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    Brother kh552 kh558 User Manual PDF

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    Brother kh552 kh558 User Manual PDF

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    Brother kh552 kh558 User Manual PDF

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    Instruction manual for knitting machine § Instruction Manual for the Knitting Machine Illustrations throughout this book are of the 588, but bearing in mind the slight differences between models this manual is valid for all of them. N.B. Tho accessory lit 1 is for the 588 ONL’ For KH-552 Knitting Machino; Instructions “HOW TO WEAVE ON YOUR MACHINE” and ‘AUTOMATIC LACE PATTERNS” on page 45 to 55 are not applicable for model KH-552. You have now become the proud owner of one of the most advanced knitting machines that isavailable today. Wewish to ‘ensure that you willreceive ‘every possible benefit and ‘enjoyment from using this machine and have taken great ‘care in producing a simple step by step guide which has been designed by a team of Jones Knitting Instructresses, drawn from their previous experience in conducting Knitting Schools. Learning to knit this new modern way is simple, but lke anything else itrequires alittle patience and some practice. ‘We recommend that you take ‘one step ata time and do not proceed to the next section Until youare satisfied that you have grasped the previous one. ‘The first part of this book is a step bystep guide on setting up ur machine. Follow the clear instructions and illustrations. ‘each time you set up your machineand youwill soon be able todo it without having to refer to the manual. The rest of the book expiains how to produce the various shapinas suchas hems, pockets, necklines ... and how to dothe automatic patterns. You will be ‘delighted when you see how easy tis toknitall the exciting Fair Isle, weaving or lacy patterns — completely, ‘automatically. REMEMBER / We ore hero to help youas much as we can with your knitting machine and are always available to offer ‘additional advice or suggestions that may notbe absolutely clear from the ingtruction book. Please do not hesitate to write to our Knitting Advisory Department forany assistance that you mayrequire. Coresing Case ‘Side hdcator Nowa Seinctor Bettont | pstiem center Reverse Lever Slide Cit 3 a Fee Bar ee “eWten using Auxiay fall mut ys Goniage ——_-S2te Pees ppatachnent, Sesto estes Fenove aurciary ri taster ge Han Row Counter Tegner m Helng Com ‘anern Selector Heck Latch Stem Butt stant inten nab for Layinein Pattern Brash ‘Yam Feeder Layinein Pattern Brush imate ary Tenino pean tee Uasingintivesd ee Tee RR” omen == 23 Transfer Teot ES 1X3 Trarster Tool SE 1x2 Trarster Too! SRR cm 0 Com, so Croctet Nessie — — & Latch Toe Set Lover Hand Bus 4 Bau Accessorie Kt Car Weight Fow ater amy 2 on Spare Needles: Kabrperbraey nea rune Carag Loc Ueda) © % Yvon ror Cerriage Pendle Setting up your machine Place the machine ona firm table, with the canying case handle avray from you. Unlock the catcheson either side of the handle. (See Fig. 2) Liftthe uppercase slightly, and pull towards you torelease the tid, (See Fig. 3) Remove the accessory box on theneedle bed, by iftng upthe front frst. (See Fig. 4). Take the two clamps out of the accessory box— raise the front ‘of the machine —and insert tha head of the clamp into the aperture, (See Fig. 5) Now pullthe clamp upwards and tum the nut in a clockwise direction until itis secure. Fit ‘he second slam in the same way, (See Fig. 6), Fasten the knitter to the table by tightening the table clam; strews. The rubber pads will prevent the table top surface ‘from getting scratched. (See Fig. 7h. Remove the carriage! (See Fig. 8). NOW YOUR MACHINE |S SECURED TO THE TABLE — AND YOU ARE READY TO. ‘START FITTING THE ATTACHMENTS, FOR MODELS 585 & 588 ONLY Press down the spring to releasethe Lacy saddle, ond remove it from the carrying case. (See Fig. 8). Press down the spring in the centre, andremove the sinker plate assembly and the Yarn Tension Unit. (See Fig. 10) SETTING UP THE CARRIAGE Slide the carriage to the centre ofthe machine, (Bstare daing so push back the butts ofall the needless faras they will go. Loosen the white plastic thumb screwsan the carriage, and insert the sinkes plate unit. Push ithack as far as it will go, and tighten the thumb sorews securely. Make sure that the faised metal studs line up With the halas in the sinker plate unit. (See Fig. 11), CHECKTHATTHE CARRIAGE " MOVES FROM SIDE TO SIDE FREELY. (Todo soall needles must be back in Position A). Fasten the handle ontothe ‘eamiage (Soe Fig. 12). 6 Set the row counter onto the Iwo studs — and push it away from you. (See Fig. 13). Fitthe set lever onto the shaft at the rearright of the neadie bed. (See Fig. 14). Place the accessory tray (lid of accessory Hox) onto tha two studs at the top left of the machine, Insert the studs into the openings and slide the tray asfarleftasitwill go. (See Fig. 19). Assembling the yarn tension unit Insert the end af the rod into the stand hole at thecentre of the machine. The rear yarn guide should face backwards (See Fig. 18). Asthis was etained by the ‘same spring asthe sinker plate Unit, It should now be free from the carrying ease ) Turn therent guide arm fore ward in the direction of the ted arrow. (See Fig 15). Turn back the ‘take-up springs ag faras they wall go. (See Fig. 18) Raise the rear stm guide untilit ‘gperpendicular to tharod. (Seo Fig. 17) Here are a few important points to remember before you start knitting WOOL ‘There are many different typos of wao! that can be knitted on your machine ut fr ¢ purpose of learning or bracing staat tae = standond 3 Ply yarn. Choose a }o0d quality, one that ean be itted over and aver again. WINDING THE WOOL The wool you purchase will be wound in either balls or hanks, both of which unwind slowly 2 when knitted by hand, Miaching | ET knitting is much faster, and equires that the wool be Toosely woundsso thatit Whe yon use 2 ply yarn oF lace yar unravels freely. You should 14 paratin t stuk mn fen yarn uid therefore re-wind all wool into ball, using a wool winder. ‘This way you can also make sure that there are no knots or flaws in the wool — that you might otherwise discaver tao late. If yau do discover any ka0ts, {ry to ensure that they Game atthe ¢ and notin he meteor eee knitting. (See Fig. 20) WAXING THE WOOL For thicker woals ar woal of reitis. 3¢ ke ded that you wax ‘woo! befare using, Ta make this fot easier for you wa have built into the Yarn Tension Unit special wax stand, which automatically applies a small amount af paraffin wax tothe ‘won! asit pesses through the unit, Waxing will smooth the smail hairs inthe wool, and allow it to run through the machine easily. All zaces of the ‘wax will disappear after the ‘garment is pressed. {See Fig. 35). “Tak ut cara tran presto ons re. oC oe Fe are guide vs WOOL TENSION The tension that the woo! will feed into the machine at ‘governed by the unitat the top of he Yarn Tensian Unit. The spring discs allow the wool 1o ass through easily or tightly — depending upon the thickness of the wool. Atight tension: (towards the +) is used for thin yams and a loase tension (towards the —) farthick wools. The tension we fecammend for a 3 Ply woalis Wherathetwoarrows meet. 9, (See Fig. 21) TENSION DIAL The size of thestiten i determined by the tension Setting an the Camiage tension ‘Si, This dial is graduated from ‘to 10, each space being subdivided into three parts. ‘Qdenotes the tightest tension {ig,thesmallest stich) and Othe largest tension (ie. the loosest stitch). The tension at which your garments ta be fedis usually given in the rn instructions. is liablo to ditfer for sifferent brands of wool, itis advisable always toknita tension swatch sample before ‘commencing your garment, {Seesectionan "Krung your 23 [z first garrnent"), (See Fig. 22). (See Fig. 23) NEEDLE POSITIONS ‘Oneither side of the needle bed ‘there appearthe marks A. B, C, DI, D11 &E. These are the five needle positions. |A~ Non working position, Needles will not knit. B= Working position. Used for general werk C,D1,D11,Pattern. Lacey & Fairisle positions. Used for various pattern stitches: E—Holding position. ‘Thestitch will hold’ on the needle until released. Used for shaping ¢.9. packets and buttonitoles, 10 ITIS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE CARRIAGE SHOULD NOT BE MOVED ACROSS THE NEEDLE BED UNLESS ALL THENEEDLES ARE ALIGNED IN EITHER OF THE FIVE POSITIONS. rrr WRONG UCT AOTAELEE Functions of the carriage 11 The movernent of the carriage across the needles in action (Position B). automatically knits each needle in turn ; thefeby knitting one row. Once the carriage has been moved across the neadies in one direction, iteannot be returned until thatrow has been completed. At the end of arow youwill hear a "click" fromthe carriage, which signifies that therow hasbeen completed and you can return Itis advisable not tomove the carriage too faraway from the end needles after CARRIAGE BUTTONS © ‘There are five buttons onthe frantof the carnage. Theyare used for various stiteh patterns to-set the carriage to enable ite knitvariousstitches, The arrow above the bution shows ‘that the carriage is sot for that direction, both buttons are ‘depressed together, the ‘carriage will be set for both directions, PART: These buttons are used mainly for fair-iske and similar pairs When using the PART wuttong, both H.C, ’smust he ‘on Position 1. both buttons are in. and theneedies.are nat ‘Sot, the carriage will move across needies without knitting ‘he stitches PLAIN : This button is pressed ‘only to cancel any of the other buttons previously set. Indoes ‘nat emain in TUCK: These buttons aroused toform ‘tucking’ stitch patterns: ‘When using them. the H.C.L's musthe on Position | (See Fig. 25) 12 HOLDING CAM LEVERS (H.C.L's.) ‘The H.C L’son either sideof the ‘carriage have three positions. marked an the carriage, 1, 17 and 111 1: All needles set forward to €.D1, B11 or E positions will return to working position B. termediate positicn. 9 is used when both 1 positions aretobe used (1a., When knitting 8 neck witha patter) 11. Holding position, Any needies brought forward to. Positions C, D or E will natknit ifthe H.C.L. closest to the knitting is oa 111 WEAVING LEVERS 580, 585 ONLY The weaving levers are behind 2a the HICUsat thesides of the carriage, and the weaving buttons areon the top of the sinkor plata. If you are weaving inane direction only. then the buttons closest ta the kniting must be putin Position and the lover closest i the knitting also to Position T. To move the weavinglever tmustbe depressed slightly Ifyou are wanving in both directions then both levers and both buttons must bein Position When you ara not weaving, but knitting, levers.and buttons must be in “N° position. HANGE KNOB SSP ONLY There are three setings.on this control (See Fig. 26) Ni. Farnam knitting. par and tuck paitors, 1. Forlaying in or weaving patteens MC. Forfainie, When the change knab is set an MC ailthe needles tnt in pasition D1. Kritting in this pstion doesnot harm the Tachina but there yall bea litle more noise than normal Preparing to knit ROW COUNTER The figures on your row counter can be moved toze%0 by turning the dials anti-clockwise im-axder from the right (See Fig. 27) When using the raw counter pull up the Wripper atthe back of the carriage Ifyou donot wish ‘0 use the row counter, then push the tripper back into the carriage. (See Fig. 28). STEP ONE- THE CARRIAGE. (Seo Fig. 29) The photo above shows the various controls of the corriage that you should rememberthe names.cf. 4) Sot the tension dial to7 for 3-ply wool). 2) Push both weaving knobs TON. (8) both Holding Cam Leversto Position 1 4) Pross centre Carriage ution ~ PLAIN. (5) Change knob to N (6) Move the carriage across tothe rightside of the machine, STEP TWO- NEEDLE BED (See Fig. 31), (1) Push down the Release Button (0) (NOTE: itdoes notremain down asthe others). (2) Set reverse lever to + (3) Turn Slide Dial until the arrow an slide indictor is ‘opposite number (See Fig. 32) (4) Bring forward by hand 40 needles to Pos. B, 20 on either side of the centre: mark, (5) Move the carriage across and back to sicaighten these Reedies completely ote cam severe position: | enc ainE FNE oedion Woeheaas Yarn Pattern Selector Buttons Pain Keiting 14 STEP THREE — THREADING THE YARN TENSION UNIT (See Figs. 33, 34,35). (1) Pass the wool from the ball through the rear yarn guides '2) Take the wool in front of the yarn guide and in between either of the two sets of discs, from (3) Passthe woo! through the yamn guide on either side of the Centre stud (see Fig. 35). You eed not use the wool wax for (aha ie heart att eeo ida (200 Fi $5) Thnesa 8 wool ato the aycetet one tkoup sng See Fig. 34). [6) Naw clip the wool under ‘the woo! holder half way down the rod where it will remain until you are ready to start knitting. STEP FOUR- CASTING ON. (1) Hang the cast on comb Onto the pegsof the needie.qate making sura that the chips on the comb slip over the part of the gate peg that is below the ingedie bed. Use the small cast on comb and centre it botweon the 50th needle on the rightand left. SET THE TENSION DIAL TO No.7 (3-PLY WOOL) (See Figs. 36 & 37) (2) Take the end of the wool which was clipped anto the yarn tension red) and thread it Intothe yarn feeder ofthe carriage. Hala it from below with your left hand ana from above with your eight. (See Fig. 38) 16 (3) Push the wool ba: ‘yan feeder. It should click into Place, (See Fig. 3940). (4) Continuete hold the wool below with yaurleft hand, and ‘take back any slack wool ‘through the yarn tension unit (i.e.. thetake up spring should be Bent forward), (5) Stillholdingthe wool below the carriage with your left hand, slide the carriage across the needies with yourright hand until you hear a “click” as N.B. Always move the cari ross until you hear the clickat the end ofa ‘You will now havea loop aroundeach needle ind under each peg of the comb. 0 (N.B. Ifatew end needles have been pulled forward from Position 8 then simply push them back by hand before continuing) (6) You can now lowerthe cast on comb by turning the end pegs (at the same time) towards you. Thiswill release the comb from the gate pegs and you can allow ito drop, slowly. (See Figs, 41 & 42), Note: The cast-on loops still loose so takecare not to turn the comb outofa vertical position or the loops may fall off. (7) Raise the thvead fromthe cambto the carriage, so that it oes under the last comb peg, adjacantto the end needle and above therest {8) Knit the next row slowly nd continue knitting. The cast fn combeante removed after the first 6 or 8 rows by tilting it backwards. Aftera few rows, remove the knitung from the machine (ie, taking the thread utof the yarn feeder and knitting one row across) Practice this caston two-or three times. See Fig, 43) To yarn feeder YOU ARENOWABLE TODO AQUICK OPEN END CAST ON, THIS METHOD ISNOT USED WHEN PRODUCING GAAMENTS—BUTIS USEFUL FOR KNITTING SWATCH SAMPLES AND EXPERIMENTING ALTERNATE METHODS OF CASTING ON ARE GIVEN FURTHER ON. 18 __ The purl side (or wrong side) of the knitted fabric (facing you) looks like this. (See Fig. 44). Trepiin sie io se of the fable (aw loot ike tie (S00 Fig 48 IF THE CARRIAGE SHOULD JAM AND HOW TO UNRAVEL A ROW ote wh: '1} Loosen the thumb screws: ‘ofthe sinker plate and remove the sinker plate fromthe carriage. (2) Holding the handle tiltthe 44|__ ‘carriage backwards and slide it back to the side from where ‘that row commenced, When it is clear of the end nesdies in action lawer the frant again ‘onto the needle bed. (3) With the yam stil inthe: ‘yam feeder, return the sinker plate to the cariage and tighten ‘the thumbnvts securely (4) Unravel the last row of Knitting (see below). UNRAVELLING A ROW OF KNITTING (1) Pullthe yarn slightly. Sideways and Up, (S00 3 ihetuthan wiles ottthe” jleg.and the stitches from. ‘the row below wil siponto the 48 Be Corkinue to pullthe yarn sideways and upremaving 4 or Stitches at atime until you reach the spot where the carriage was jammed. (3) Pull the yarn down from therear (above ball) to take up theslack andta bring the take Of spring back into action. (4) Ensure thet there is no. slack fram the carriage to the needdas by sliding the carriage loftand right a few inches (NOTACROSS NEEOLES IN ACTION). (See Fig. 49), 5) ADJUSTTHENUMBERS IN YOUR ROW COUNTER. IF YOU FIND IT NECESSARY TO MOVE THE CARRIAGE ACROSS THE NEEDLESIN ACTION WITHOUT KNITTING ‘AROW - Then press bath PART butions in at the same time and set both H.C.L'sto 111, If any needtes have been solvcted then pull them back to B position before going across with the cariage BEFORE CONTINUING: LET'S LOOK HOW A STITCH 1S FORMED. (1) The stitch is onthe needle Which is behind the gate pegs. (2) The carriage brings the needle forward by pushing the needle but. (3) The stitch pushesthe latch Backand falls behindit (4) The new thread (fram the yarn fosder on the carriage) is {aid into the noodle hook. (5) The carnage brings the needle back and so doing the previous stitch gets pushed Forward again— this time right gr teach iy pacing (6) The nowiy laid thread gets pulled in to form another stitch, 19 Side Corriage Now lets knit a plain hem 20 Bring forward the required umber of needles (evonly divided on either side of the contre 0’) to working position B, Slice the carriage across these needles 1 strsighten the needlebutts CARRIAGE SETTING Centre Button — Pisin. H.C.L's=Both on | Change knob N Tension Dial—# (3-ply wool) Carriagean the right. MACHINE SETTING Slide Dial—1 Reverse Lever — +. Thread the yarn tension unit using waste wool (or any contrast colouryam).Caston ay (as previously shown using the eet at rows plain, Remove the east on comb from the knitting. (1) Tighten the tension by two numbers lower (1... 5). (2) Throad the waste wool Below the yarn feeder and resthread the machine with the wool to be used, (3) Set row centre back to ‘0’ (8) When the yamnis threaded into thecarriage hold it below with one hand and knit across with the other. (5) Knit epprox.200r30 rows or as required for double the depth of hem (8) Using thesingleeyed transfer tool open the latches of the naadies as shown (refers to photo 50} TURNING THE HEM Pick up the first stitch (away from carriage) of tha first row where it meets the contrast Colour row. (N-B. 0 NOT PICKUP THE CONTRAST COLOUR STITCH), incor the transfer tool into this stitch and lay the tool over the hook of the needle. (2) Haid the work forward with yourlett hand and pull the transfer tool back and up with yourright. This brings the heedle forwardita & Position and slips the stitch frarn the tool onto the noadle, (NB. It you intend to do the next row in Bpattorn stitch that required the needles to be in B Position —then da not pull the transfer tool back, but simply raise it upwards so that the stitch falls onto the needie, Make sure ‘that theneedie doesnot come forward enough for ‘the twostitches to fall behind the latch) (3) Continue raising the first row of stitches in this manner Until allthe needles have two stitches on them. (4) Reset the tension dialto 7 and take up any slack inthe ‘woo! from the knitting to the carriage. £8) Continue knitting the garment. REMOVING THE WASTE WOOL ‘Ones the garment has progressed a few inches you an remove the waste wool by breaking the end stitch of the row joining the knitting anct pulling the loose thread at the other end of thisrow. Now lets try an elastic hem (i.e. continental or double ‘rib’) 22 Bring forward the required ‘number of needies to B Position. Carriage and machine settings asfor’PLAIN HEM’, Press the pation selector buttons Nos. 1.3, Sand 7 and Swivel tho opt lever to the left. ‘This veil bring every alternate needle forward. Using the flat side of a needle pusher —push back the other needles all the way (Position A), Press the release button (blue) on the Pattern Selector Unit and move the carriage acrass and back 10 align all thealhemate needles (NOTE: IFYOU FIND THIS METHOD DIFFICULT THEN SIMPLY BRING FORWARD. EVERY ALTERNATE NEEDLE TO B POSITION, BY HAND). (1) Thread upand.cast on with waste woolas before. (When the comb is droppad itshould catch the first row as illustrated in No. 52) (2) After knitting 8 or 10 rows of wasta wool break thewao! 2s and re-thread with the wool to. be used, Lower the tension to 2. (3) Knit approx. 400° 80 rows. (Soe Figs. 83 and 54), (8) Bring forward all the empty ‘headias from Position A to Position B, by hand and make surerthat all the latches are open. (5) Using the ane eyed transter taol and starting from the. end opposite the carriage toch stitch fromthe fis (where itjoins the waste woo!) and raise these onto the empty needles. (See Fig. 55). (NOTE: As explained under ‘plain hem’ when raising these stitches the needles can be brought forward to E Position tw anture thatthe stiches do not drop aff—orthey can lettin B Position). (6) Return the Tension dial to 7 and after knitting afew inches the waste wool cen be 32 THE FINISHED “DOUBLE RIB” SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS. {seoFia. 56). panes |ANY variations of this elastie rib can be made for cuffsand hems. One of the more popular isthe 2x1 Double Hem—the instructions of which are given here. (1) Bring forward the required ‘fumber of needles to B Position and using the? 1 needle pusher—push back every thitd hhoadle te Position A (autot action). (599 Fig. 82). (2) Foliow the previous 56 instructions for the ‘continantal rib’. but when raising the first raw of stitches (adjoining the ‘waste woo!) — put them onto the adjacent two neadies tothe left (See Fig. 88). 58 THE COMPLETED 2x1 RIB WILL LOOK LIKE THIS (reters to 59) So far you have learned to cast onwith a double hem — now let'ss0e some other methads of casting-an. sale £ es = Automatic cast-on Finished edge cast-on (hand method) 24 — Automatic Cast on needie from left to right, (coming fram the ball) down, SE GEE, SSN Hg, engin mae CARRIAGE SETTING — Tun toeermaaete”” tadlenolnt mention Gisratigson on Sertaeataetias SUete germane Monmgticts eon, Teaaamvcmatit™ arate seta a ‘ension Dial — § (for3-ply yar another, Do not make the are not opposite needies in Carriage button both PART in. i50ps goo tight. (See Fig. 60). action. Leave the coma (4) Now thiead the yarn into” suspended untilabout 10 rows MACHINE SETTING the feader, and pull the strand have been completed. Reverse Lever ~on + Slide Dial— on P.S.Buttons—Press1,3, 5and7. Bring forward the required needles ta & Position and press ‘the Pattern Selector Button 41,3, Sand 7. Swivel the set lever to bring out the needles. (1) Thread the yar into the: carriage and knit onerow (loops will form on needles ). (2) Turn the reverse fever to-— andknitone row. Hold the end ofthe yarn loosely with one. hand (3) Turn the reverse dial back fo andknigonerow, (4) Tum thereverse lover to = and knitone row (8) Prose he centre carriage button PLAIN and push Both weaving knobs toT- (6) Knit the next two rows % Slowly ~and continue knitting. Thisedge snottheneatest yeu | \\) can produce and we do not recommend this method ft/s ay to beon view. However, if itis if 10 be folded in, or simply used for sample swatches, then it is ‘the quickest sealed edge ‘cati-on possible. Finished Edge Cast on Hand Method Place the cartiageon the right and set the Tension Dial to. Hang the cast on comb onto the pegs of the needle gate. (1) Bring forward to Pesition E, all the needles required. 2) Fasten the end of the yarn ‘threaded only through the ‘yarn tension unit) onio the end. eedle on thelet, using a slip knot. (3) Loop the NN a yn around each Knitting a picot hem Picking up dropped stitches 25 Picot Hem Set the machine as for the "PLAIN HEM’ and knit up to half the depthof the hem with the Tension Dial two numbers: lower than required for that wool 5 (ie. If the hemis to be 50 rows then knit up to the end ofthe 25th row, starting from ‘where the main wool jains the contrast colour). FOR MODELS WITHOUT LACE CARRIAGE Usingla single eyed transferteo! ‘open the latches of all the needles in action. Starting from the secand end needle place the transfer tool onto the hook and pull the taol and needle towards you. (See Figs. 65 to 68)Now push it back $0 that thestitch slips off the needle and onto the taol. Transfer the stitch to the adjacent needle by placing the eye over the hook of the first ‘needle and titing the tool upwards, The stitch should fall ‘off thatoal and onto the needle. Continue transferring every ‘second stitch onto the previous needle until you have two stitches on every alternate noodle FOR MODELS 585 & 588 ONLY Place the Lacy Carriage (See section on lacy knitting) anta the needle bed. Push down P'S. Buttons 1.3, Sand 7 and set the lover. fan send needa (away from ‘cantiage) is set then post it back ta Position B by hand. Slide the lacy carriage across the needles invone movement. (This will transferevery second stitch to ‘the adjacent needle — automatically). FOR ALL MODELS Reset the Tension Dial to 7 and take unany slack in the yarn from the carriage tothe knitting, Bring all the empty'ngedies into a straight ine together with the othersin Position B. Knit the other half of the hem {(.0,, 25 rows) and raise the first ‘of stitches as forthe "PLAIN HEM’. Dropped Stitches A.IFTHE STITCH HAS DROPPED ONE ROW, then 61_____} withthe single transfer tool nick up thestitch and the ‘unknitted thread and putthem both on the empty needle, Push the needle forward, until ‘the stitch falls just behind the latch ofthe needle; catch the thread of the unknitted stitch into the hook of the needle, and push the needs back, The stitch will slide aver the closed hook of the needle and be re-knitted, 8 B.IFTHE STITCH HAS DROPPED A NUMBER OF ROWS, then insert the latch hank into the last stitch that has notdropped, from behind the fabric (i. the side that isnot facing you (1) Hold the latch hook at right angles to the knitting. and pull the knitting down slightly 2. Push the tool towards you Thestiteh will fall behind the #2 latch. (See Fig. 6 1) {) Now pull the tootback, at the same time catching the thread across in the hook Moke sureta positian the hook in the centre of the horizantal thread, and to pull, the tool all the way back untilthe stitch is formed (See Fig. 62), 4, In the same way knitthe stitehes all the way to the top stitch. (5) Place the transfer toal (ora grochat hook) into thehook of the iatch tool, and transfer the laststitch onto the transfer tool. Now place the stitch onto the ‘empty needle. (See Fig. 64) AMOOQL How to use the transfer tool 26 ‘The transfer tools are used to movesstitches onto different needles to effect the shaping of the garment, and aisata farm lacy patterns. Before ‘ransferring the stitches you should open the latches of the needles to be used (1) Hold the one eyed transfer tool parallel with the needles Place the aye into the hook of the needle. (See Fig. 65) (2} With the transtet tool, bring the needle forward. The stitch 6 inthe hook of the needle will ble behind the latch andonto (Seetrg 66) (3) Without releasing the ‘transfer tool, push the needle all ‘the way back until the stitch is ‘tanstarred onto the transfer tool (See Fig. 67). (8) Raise the transfer tool with 0 stitch on itand transferitta Se mecenr need. eh Increasing stitches 27 ONE STITCH AT INCREASING EITHER EDGE SEVERAL STITCHES ‘A.SIMPLE METHOD. Simply |N THE ROW bring into warking position B= The afore mentioned method ‘one needle from Position Aon can be used working fromthe the sidenearestthecariage, —_centve outwards.oryoucan The-empty needle will pickup transfer the knitting fram the the yarn on the nextrow. knitter toa knitting nesdleand LL FASHIONED: then return tha stitches. Before METHOD. (1) Using thetwa the knitting is transferred back edie transfer tool, move the from the knitting needles to the ©! stitches outby one needie so. knitter, determine the number That the third needle fromthe of stitches to be increased and ‘and bucomesempty. Space the replaced stitches 60 (See Fig 69). that there will be an equal (2) To fill in the empty needle number of stitches transferred pickup the purlsideofeither between each extra needle adjacant stitch onthelower {leaving omply needles where row. (See Fig. 70) xtra stitches are required) Reisethe neighbouring lower SEVERAL STITCHES _halfstitchesto ihe empty AT EITHER EDGE needles. (See Fig. 73), (1) Push the needles to bo am increased, to Position E onthe same side as the carriage (2) Loosely wind the yarn around the stems ofeach feedle, going sround the ‘eedles trom below. SAYA Position 1 (a) Knit across one row. To ensure perfect knitt theincreased stitches, raise these needles to Positian E before knitting across far the next 2 or rows, INCREASING ONE STITCH IN THE CENTRE ROW (4) Determine the position here you want to increase one: stitch. 2. Use the needle transfer toal, starting from either end, transfor all the stitches ‘outward in either direction Until the eequired neadie is free, {See Fig, 72). 3 Pick up the adjacentlower half stitch onto theempty needle. (See Fig. 73). 7a Transferring to hand knitting needles 28 (1) Slide a hand knitting needle into the first stitch from behind ‘the knitting. With your left hand hold the knitting clase to ‘knitter, With your finger, b the needle forward sothat the nieedia, behind the latch. (2) Push theneedieallthe way ‘back So that the stitch slips all ‘aver the closed hook of the ‘needle onto the knitting needle. (3) Slide the knitting needia into the next stitch and repeat untitall the stitches are off the neediesonthe nesdiebed. TRANSFERRING OFF THE HAND KNITTING NEEDLE ONTO THE KNITTER A.USING THE TRANSFER {1} Gen the pene etches (2) Hold the fabric in your left hand with the desired side facing you, the hand knitting ‘needle being in li with the needles, (3) Pass the transfer tool through the stitch on the knitting needle from the front, (See Fig. 75), 18 4) Transfer the stitch from the ‘transfer tool onto the hook of machine needles. Push the les with the transferred stitches back asfaras they will go, 8, ALTERNATE METHOD (1) Bring the needles forward to Position ‘D’, and open the latches. 2. Begin from the left side. (2) Transfer thestitches fram the hand knitting needle onto the open hooks.of the machine needles. (See Fig. 76). Decreasing stitches 29 ONE STITCH AT EITHER EDGE 1 4. SIMPLEMETHOD. Using thesingletransier tool, transfer theend stiteh orga the second needle (See Fig. 77) and push empty needle back to Position’ A. B-FULLY FASHIONED DECREASING. With the single naedie wanster tool transfer thaend stiteh 10 thesecond needle and the 2nd stitch to the Src needle | together. Push the empty 77 L_ needle outaf action DECREASING ONE STITCH IN THE CENTRE OF ROW (1) Use the single transfer tool and wansfer a centre stitch to adjacent needle. (See Fig. 78). (2) Usinathe 3 needle wonster tool, shift all stitchesin until ail needles ‘in action’ have stitches onthem, and placethe outer empty needles out ef action (S00 Fig.78) 76 I) Io RIT SU DECREASING SEVERAL STITCHES IN A ROW (1) Transfer the knitting toa hand knitting needle: (See Fig. 74) (2) Before returning the knitting fram the knting needle back to the knitter, aleulate the proportional reduction in thenumber of stitches. For example, ta decrease one ™ slitchin every three, hang the 2nd and 3rd stitches both onto ‘one needle. (See Fig. 80). (3) The number of readies with double stitchos represents the umber of stitches decreased. Casting-off 30 METHOD A (1) On thesameside asthe carriage, transfer the-end stiteh tothe 2nd needle. (See Fig 81) (2) Bring forward the needle With the two stitches so that the stitches fall behind the Aged latch. (See Fig, 82). (3) Place the yarn in the needle hook. in front of the laich and pushthe needle back manually toforma single stitch Seog, £3) (4) Repeat this process for each saitch, Take care nottomake a the stitches to0 tight, Aftor practicing this, you may find iteasier to transfer the stitch you have formed by hand, without using the transferteol, This method can be used for binding off any number of stitches at neck, armhole, shoulder or pocket edges. (1) Knitthe jastrow ona much Jooser tension than the rest of the garment (2) Stort on the side opposite theeariage, old the latch tool upright, so latch remains open. oa. (4) Inseet thelateh hook into {he first 2stitehes and remove themirom the needles. Letthe first stich sie past the latch. (4) Pull the second stitch through the frst ~ this leaves one loop in the hook of your latch tool. Cantinuete bind off ona stitch ata time, the last stitch with a slip! {See Figs, 85nd 86). lo mention is made in these centre of the neck or of shaping at the armholes, Whilst following thesteps below. the decreasing and shapingmust. 88 be carried out accarding to the instructions in the knitting patter. or according to the measurementsof the garment. Fiemember to putall empty’ ‘needles back to Position 'A’ after transferring and betore eontinuing to knit. Button-holes small Button-holes medium 31 Small (1) Open the latches of wo Reedies where the buttonhole isto be, (2) Using the one eyed transfer tool, move the stitches on the tight over tothe lett (3) Bring back the butt of the empty needle to Position B, jand.continue to knit Medium (OPEN THELATCHES OF A GROUP OF FOUR NEEDLES (2) Teansfee the inner two stilches tothe adjacent outer needles (See Fig. 87). a7 (3) Return thetwo empty neodleste Position B and knit ‘one row (See Fig. 88), (4) After this raw the two centre needles will only have loops (See Fig. 89) To ensure thai these needies kniton the next few rows, rin them both forward to Position t (lor next 2rows), making sure that the loops fall behind the latches. eo | Button-holes Large 32 (1) Determine the position of thebuttonhole, Purl the stitch adjacent to where you want the buttonhole to start. (2) Catch the purled half stitch and bring it forward ontothe latch hook (See Fig. 80). With this as your frst stitch, crochet through the nextadjacent stitches of the Buttonhole — ing off (See Fig. 91) (3) Transfer the stitch off the Fatchet hook, on to thenext adjacent needle (See Fig. 91) (a) Rnitonerow (H.C.l's oni}. 99 ‘The wool will loop over ti ompty needles (See Fig. 92). (5) Starting from the end where the bottom part was saaled off —wind the woo! around each needle individually. If there is any ieftaver (this will depend onthe tension you are using) then wind an extra loop around each adjacent nesdie (See Fig. 93). Donat wind too ‘tight. al (6) Raise the needles with the wound loops and afeve adjacent needles on either side gy to Position €. Make suré the oops fall Behind the latches, Continue to raise these needles {ifitdoes notinterfere with the pattern) forthe next two or three rows of knitting, ALTERNATIVE METHOD FOR LARGE BUTTON-HOLES Using a contrast. colour wool, cast off the number of stitches estan Forte re tinue kang (rating these oodles oFositen forthe ext few rows) until the garmentis completed. The buttonhole can be finished by stitching, and the contrast wool taken out ECOG SS Crh OT AT Crytek whe DOOD? Ursa sirs Making a vertical buttonhole How to knit a pocket 33 Button Hole Knit up to the row where the buttonhole starts. Ifthe carriage isan the right side of the needle bed, knit theright side of the buttonhale first (1) Sethoth H.C.Lsto Position I {2} Determine wherethe Buttonhole isto be and bring forward to Position ‘E’all the needles on the lett of the buttonhale, (3) Knit6 rows. (IFalarger Buttonhole is desired, knit as mary rows as is necessary.) (4) Break the yarn; take the Carriage off the needle bed and replace it on the other side: (6) Return the needles that \wore in position Eto Position ‘C’ (using the plastic picker cartiage), and bring forward the eodles onthe right to Position 'E (6) Knit the left side of the buttonhole, the same number ‘of rows.as forthe right side. After you have compfeted the same humber of rows raise the H.CL'sto Position and continue toknit. Instructions are-aiven for the gamiage on theright side of the How to knita Pocket (1) Determine the position of thepocket, and bring forward to Position all the needles on the let of the pocket. 2) Lower both H.C.'s to ‘sition 2 (centered) (3) Knit one row and bring forward to Position’E’ all the needles on the right of the pocket (4) Knit ona row again. (5) The carriage is now on the fight anid you can knit the, amount of rows requited for the pocket, Move the carriage cross slowly with one hand and putthe other hand behind the fabric and pull the knitting down slightly. Finish the completa pocket with the atriage of tha right. (6) Push the needieson the left back to Positian C’ (using the picker carriage) taking care ‘not to let the stitches fall over the latches. (7) Knitone row. and raise th rightside H.C. L. to Positian I (8) Continue knitting the garment, ‘The pocket ean now be pulled through to the sideof the fabric facing you. To complete the pocket sew up (or weave) the stitches at thesides Shaping a ‘Vee’ neck 34 Knit the fabric to the row where the 'V' neck commences. The instructions are written to start ‘with the carriage an the right side of the bed. If the carriage is ‘on the left then read LEFT for RIGHT and vise versa. (1) Place both H.C.L’son Il. (2) Bring forward to Position "Ball theneedleson the left side ofthe centre“O'. These needlas will not knit until the tightside is completed. (you wish you may take them off ontoa knitting needie and replace them ater). (3) Transfer the first stitch on the right of 'O' tothe adjacent needa on theright (in Pos. 8°) Rlturnthe eenpy needa to N.B, FOR FULLY FASHIONED “yansler both fistand second litches onto thesecond and third needles, and continue transferring two at atime. (4) Knit two rows. {5} Continue decreasing one stitch every two rows until you havethe required numbat of stitches left far the shoulder. Bind off those stitches and break the wool. {Gi Rann al near a et 0 3.8 by putting three at a timeanto a vansler tool, atid Slipping thestitehes inside ne needle hooks a ‘the latehos). Knit this side identical to the other. NB. tfyouaredoingapanern Using the H.C.L's, than after bringing the needles (forthe pattern) forward with the Set Lever — they will have to be returned by hand. To do this, just push the nesdie back 10 sition “C:, and It will knit toggther withthe other neodtes KNITTING THE HEM TO THE "V’ NECK Bring forward to Position 8’ the number of needles required for HALF the neck and back of garment. ‘Open the latches of all these needles. the cortioge and mack as for Plain Knitting. ‘With the wrong side of work facing you, and using the one eyed transfer tool, pick up the At stitch nearest to the V" onto thefirst noedienearest to the carriage, Now continue to raigeall the stitchos from the half 'V" onto theempty needles. (Youmay prefer to have the hemtighter Sind therefore reise all the Stitches amos the Corresponding number of nneedigs, To da this, miss out ‘every dth stitch and raise every Sth stitch onto every 4th needle). if YOU WISH TO DO THE NECKBAND IN ONLY TWO PIECES THEN RAISE HALF THE STITCHES FROM THE BACK OF THE GARMENT ONTO THE NEEDLES AFTER RAISING HALF THE NECK STITCHES With the same yain knit one row across (N.B. All needle bbutts should be in Position YOU CAN NOW KNIT THE HEM The bottom end of the hem should be mitred forthe V shope). by decreasing atthe °V" end until the her is halfway through. Now increase in reverse order 50 that when the hem is completed you have the same number of stitches on as when started. REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS FOR THE OTHER SIDE OF THE NECK STARTING AT THE Shaping a round neck Shaping a square neck 35 Round neck instructionsare given for the carriage onthe night side of the needle bed. (1) Placethe H.C.L’son Positian tl (2) Bring forward to Position "E’ allthe needles on the lelt side of thecentre ‘0, (3) The decreasing of the stitches is dene by bringing forward ta Position E the needles you wish to decrease. Start with thenoediesin: Position "B’ on the right of ‘0 and knit two rows each time you bring needles forward. (4) Decrease in this manner until you have the required, number of stitehesteft in Pos, 8 forthe shoulder (5) Bind off these stitches and break the yarn. (8) Return the needles on the Jatt back to Position 'B’ and repeat as above, from 310 5, Remember to leava the same amountof needles for the shoulder. Bind off these stitenes, (7) Place the end stitches of the round neck onto the knitter, (8) Piace the camage onthe leftandthread the yan feeder, H,C.U'son Position | KNITTING THE HEM: (9) Knit the fiest naif of the hem: (approx, 5 rows) ona normal tension for that yarn. (70) Knit one row on a tension numbers higher. This will fensura thar the fold wil be flat (11) Knitthe other halfafthe hem om the same tension 25 usedin No. 8. (N.B. Itmustbe the seme amount of rows a the first halt) (12) Using tha transfer tool, raise the stitches from theend of theround neck onto the needles. Take care to ratse each stitch onto the corresponding needle to obtain a perfect round effect, (13) When all the stitches have been raised, bind off the double stitches in the normal way. NB, Seal tha stitches by hand very loosely, to allow forthe neck to fall back into place after removing the knitting trom the machine, Square neck Castoff the needies inthe centre; for this width of the neck, using the same wool as that forthe garment. Return needles to Positon ‘A ‘On the opposite side to the carriage bring forward all the needles to Position E’, Lower both HC.L’s tol Knit the requited numberof rows to complete the:side nearest the carriage. Cast aff ‘and return the needies 10 Position A Raise H.C.LUstol and knitather half identical to 36 SHORT ROW DESIGNING This method of shaping has endless possibilities and is used mast frequently for Turing the hes! of socks pockets horizontal darts circular piece-yokes, skirts and zig-zag designs, Set both H.C.L's to Position Il then put ong ov more naedies in Position 'E’, sothat these paedies stop knitting and hold the stitches far further use, Two COLOUR DIAGONAL KNIT (USING SHORT ROW METHOD) (1) Startwith the carriageat the right and both H.C.L's on, Position Ill (2) Raise twaneedies on the leftta Position ©. (3) Knitane raw to leftand pass the yarn under the stem of the neediein Position “E” onthe fight, Knit one row to the right (4) Continue raising two needles and knitting 2 rows.3 nti all needies.are in (5) Change the yarn : removes carriage from theright side and place an the left side of kn tex Starting atthe left push into Position 'C’, two nesdlas at a time, and ket onerow 10 the left and one to thenght. (Reversing the previous process umtilall needles are back in knitting position.) The most comprehensive knitting machine pattern stitch book ever produced is now available! Page 37~47 apply mainly to models 588,585 and except for lace, the 580. 37 We have done it againt We have compiled a hard caver manual of aver 1.200 different pattern stitches that can be produced automatically on your ‘There are 370 pages 48 in full eolour, and all packed ‘with beautiful stitches and ‘ew ideas that have never been published befare | This enormous selection of fancy stitches — all with full illustrated instruction charts ludes weaving, lace, Fair Isle, woven: lace combinations Afgan, ribbing, 2s well as new Useful Ideas on matits, jembyoidery on knitting and crochet. ™’ ~ . . ™ ™* a . . \ How to use the pattern centre 38 As previously explained on page 9, thereare six different positions of the needles (A, B,C.01,011 &E}. ‘The pattern centreisused to solect the naedles you wish to use (always in sequences of 2.4, or B) and bring them, forward intoaction — for producing tha patter. CHANGE LEVER This control hastwo settings, NandMc. IN. When in this position the set levar brings the selected needles toposition D4. Use this setting far all patterns except colour work, ME. hen seton MC the selected neadlesare brought forwardto 111 by theset lever, This position is used for fairisle and colour pattarns. SELECTING THE aan NEEDLES Bring forward the numberof 98 rneedios you require to Position 8 (with both H.C.L'son Iran the corriage across and back 10 straighten the needle butts) Turn the reverse lever {immediate right of buttons) to+. ‘Change lever to N. (1) Dopress button No.1 {See Fig. 98} (2) Swivel the Set Lever as tar oft as itwill go. Thiswill push forward every correspanding eighth needle to Position 'D’ (By moving the carriage across nov, this will feturn these needies to Position 'B'. They may also be pushed back by hand ifthe wrong selection was made). (See Fig. 99) (3) The Hed bution on the left (numbered) isused 12 release any other buttons that are depressed, Itdoes nat remain down. (Se Fig, 100), NEEDLE SELECTOR BUTTONS - REVERSE LEVER-SLIDE DIAL Each button cantrolseach ‘needle group. A combination of pushed down buttons will Control the correspanding combination of selected needles. ‘The reverse lever has two positions + and — Position + ‘The nvedies corresponding to pusheddown buttonsean be selected by swiveling the set lever. Position — ‘The needles conesponding to. unpushed down buttons can be selected by swivellingthe set lever ‘When the reverse levers in position —. youcan see the figure — on the slide:ndicator. (For models 580, 595 only) ‘The siide dial is used forsliding ‘thenesdle selection pesition and for zigzag and diagonal patterns. Example Push dawn the't’ button, turn thesfide dial and set thesrrow at! on the slide indicator, ‘Swivel the set lever, then the needles on the mark & will be selected. Tum the slide dial andset the arrow at 2ontheslide indicator. ‘Swivel the sotlever, then the needles on right side of the mark X will be selected. The-slide direction indicator indicates the direction in which the slide dial has last bean tured. Relation between the naedie selector buttons andthe needles are shawn in this figure. Se jg I Nate \, hie Drecton indie Assen psitin Show nesdle ‘elect butters Needle setector ns Reverse Igver |Explanation of the pattern cards (charts) 40 THE PATTERN CHARTIS READ FROM THE BOTTOM UPWARDS —and each stop (normally a tow) should be followed starting from RIGHT to LEFT. STEPS — The required operation for each step or movementof the carriage is shown in the horizental eolunin ofthe step, CARRIAGE DIRECTION — Move the carriage accordingto thedirection of the arrow. The double arrow means two rows without stopping. Before ‘Stop | the carriageshould be on the right, COLOUR (All models excent 588 688see paged3) ~ This shows the colour of the yarn inthe feeder. ‘AC: Main colour. B'of 'C':2nd of 3rd-colours, ‘The figure’O' means that the carriage must be maved across without knitting (PART), TENSION DIAL The number shown here is the tension on the carriage dial, that this pattern was knitted i. The tension differs foreach typeof wool, and therefore this number can only be used as a guide, A.test piece in the wool you are using will have to be Knitted, and it need be, the tension altered, H.C.L. LEFT 7 ‘The position for this lever on the carriage is shown in the felative square for each step. ‘The twodashes ("") denote that the setting remains the same 95 that forthe previous arriage, I # square is blacked fry means that this button must be depressed. The two dashes (") indicate thatthe Setting remains as forthe previous step. H.C.L. RIGHT. ‘The same.as H.C.L left CHANGE KNOB: (CHANGE LEVER NEEDLE SELECTION APPARATUS: ‘The numbers 1 to 8 denote the needle selector buttonsen the ‘upper bed. I the squar blacked init means thatthe button must bedenressed, AND THE SET LEVER MUST BE SET FOREWARD : for that REVERSE LEVER Thera are twa positions for this +. Alter moving the set lever. the needles that will com forward are those relating tothe butions that are down Idepressed). = "When the lever is.on — the needles coming forward will be those relating ta the buttons that areup (i.e. NOT depressed) REMEMBER Il you wish to return negdes to non working position A’on the needle then this lever must be on + AND ALL THE BUTTONS MUST BE UP, CHANGE LEVER Setting on Nor Me, SLIDE DIAL This dial moves the positions of the needleselector butions to the adjacent needles. The relative position of button 1 is shown by the arrow onthe slide indicator window of the machine, a By moving theslide dial you canmove the arrow io whatever number is indicated inthis column for thestep you are doing, Always Check the position of the slide dial before bringing the needles forward, WEAVING APPARATUS ‘There are two figures in this column. Ni: Change knob and bath ‘weaving buttons are.on N. T: The chanoe knob and weaving buttons must be brought to" position, and mustremain in this position throughout the pattern, WEAVING THREAD COLOUR The colour of the thread used for weaving. A denotes the ‘main colour and if more colours fre used. then B of C will appear. REMEMBER: Alwayscheck right through each step before moving the carriage across the needles. When reaching the end of pattern continue agin from Step 1 EXAMPLE OF A SIMPLE DIAMOND STITCH PATTERN IN ONE COLOUR (1) Carriage on the right. Both H.C.L's on Position (2) Thread yarn and set Tension Dialto 5. 3) Reverselever on +, and lide dial on No. 1 41 (4) Press needle selector buttons 1 and Sand set the Set Lever as far forward ait will go. (5). Knit vows (steps 1,.2.3 and), (6) Raise left H.C.L. to Position t Ch Kozo (8) Retin left H.C.L.10 Position III; and iurn Slide dial to No. 3(N'B. Do natrelessa buttons), (an kai rows, (10) Raise left 4.C.L10 ition | (11) Knit 2 rows. (12) Continue rom Step 1 (Remember toreturn Slide dial to Lando Loweriefth CL 10 til a practice a few more basic atterns. TEE bl 2 42 HERE ARE A FEW MORE EXAMPLES oF ONE COLO! PATTERN STITCHES Holding Pattern (2) Leave the needles a the morks Xand 64 in position ‘A {Out of Action). Raise other Needles to position 'B" Fair-Isle pattern knitting 588 43 ‘COLOUR WORK Both H.C.Lst0 1, Plain button pressed. Change knob 10 MC. Change laver to MC. Reverse nittwe rows, This Hold the thread les forward to ‘work in position 01 Stop with carrisge at right hand tend, Press both part buttons in, To knit pattern illustrated on fight, press butlans.1, 2,3and 4. 3 Ser lover (this brings forward Selected needias t9 011). Lay in ‘contrast yam as diagram X. Knit DIAGRAM X The latches must be open. #thras times. Every sixth row the raverselever is shaenated between -+ and — N.B. When laying the contrast yatn across the needles make Sure the latches are open and thata sight pressura is maintained on the yarn to avoid looping, a TXTMAqa] " XxDIXIX] ro TeIKiRIX | XYK[x/x 4 eek XPT] Ty N.B. Each step represents one row af knitting Fair-Isle pattern knitting All models except 588 44 Theprincpleatkaiting | HOW TO CHANGE gaiiage yarn feeder ond hang ifferent fair-isio designs ist0 = THE WOOL FOR TWO __ itonto the end of the needle knit certain needles (stitches) bbed, Thread the second yarn Inonscelourrendixentonne = COLOUR WORK into the feeder. and move the theremaining stitches forthat Thread bothcolaurs intathe —_carriageslightiy sideways until Towinthe second, orsecond Yer Tension Unitas shown in the'yam (fram the feederto the and third colours, Theknitting Fig. 101. knitting) comes upon top of of the remaining stitches is, Takethe Tstcolourout of the the lower sinker plate, ‘sometimes referred to as Tiling “il in thebackground’, only two Colours are used then the Feverse dial performs this automatically, asitselects all the needles that have not been selected by depressing the buttons. ‘The setting of theca ig the same for all fai designs; only the settings ‘of the needle selection is different for each patte: ‘The carnage is set as follow (1) Both H.C.L sen Position t (2) Both PART buttons (left and right) pressed in With this setting of the carriage the needies that will knit will be those in Position C" (brough forward with the Set Lever) oF thase in Position 'D’ ore {brought forward by hand) The needles remaining behind in Position Bwill not knit stall In far-iste pattornethe stitches in one colour are normally Kite fortwo rows, an than two rows of the second colour. Inthis way the changing of ow ow x eee are Shane He side of the machine peieghthe x K Remember that when kitting {airisie in twocolours every T\2\S VASE our movements of the carriage i rows of actual Coe etre rom enter N.B. Each step represents will herelore registor twice as two rows of Knitting {i.e. total mush asis required. | 26 rows). When tho width of the fair-isle ———_—— pattern is more than eight Stitches, the nesdle selector buttons cannot be used, and the required needles have tobe brought to Position "by hand. in thesame way the needies to {illin the background alsa have to bebrought forward by hand. Se ed = ie How to weave on your machine 45 PRINCIPLE OF WEAVING The weaving {or laying-in) pasratus is built into the knitting carriage, The weaving isdoneatthesame time as knitting a row “Toset the carriage for weaving in both directions - push forveard both buttons on either idle of the ginker plate unit to Position T' :Change knob to T. (Change lever to N. N.B. The H.C.L's must bath bein Position | when weaving ‘Thebest woven material effect ts obtained when the woo! yau are using to kavtis very thin (2 org Ply) and the weaving wool is thick {Double or Triple Knit) ‘HOW TO WEAVE ‘Thethvead is woven into the side of the knitting facing you, by itbeing placed above and below the needles you are knitting. The wool does not then enter the hooks of the eedias, and can be pulled out after knitting, without dropping the stitches, ‘The mathod of farming a ‘weaving patter is toselect the required needles (by pressing ‘the buttons) —toset th ngedies tarward, and lay the weaving woolacross these needles Now mave-the carriage across vw knit the row. ‘On inspection it will be seen that the weaving woo! has gone above the needles you have brought forward; and befow the needles that wore not brought forward, Theacwal pathof the wool over esght stitches is shown on the stitch ‘symbol graph, next to the pattern chart, For Example :in the stiteh ‘symbol of the pattern shown, forthe first row the woo! has jone averneedle No, 1, under , Zand 4, over, and under 6, 7and 8. For the second row the slide dial has been moved to No. 2-- therefore the same neadle setting is obtained but the pattern is moved over to very adjacent neediean the gl 46 SIMPLE WEAVING PATTERN (1) Setthe weaving levers and \wéaving buttons both an 7 H.C.Uson | (both). (2) Push buttons tT and 3 Switch the Set Lever. (3) Now lay the weaving wool onto the needies that areset, making sure that the needie latches are aif open. (S00 Fig. 26; (4) Holding the end of the ‘weaving woo! lightly in your Ieft hand, move the carnage across with your right hand 15) Set the lever and ley the wal across the nea nit ane row. 6. Continue knitting follow the chart. es HERE ARE A FEW MORE WEAVING PATTERNS TO PRACTICE Main Yarn Ad ply yarn, Weaving Yarn B~4 ply yarn. AT For top pattern, thick waol should be used for weaving. Main Yarn A~3 ply yarn. Weaving Yam B — Bulky yarn. Weaving Yain C— Bulky yarn. Main Yarn A~4 ply yarn. Weaving Yara B—4-ply yarn. Automatic lace patterns 48 LACEMAKER ONLY. Your built-in Lace device which is used to wansferthe stitches to the adjacent needles AUTOMATICALLY, PREPARING THE ‘L’ CARRIAGE Remove the auxin rats from a carrying case {Soe Fig, 103) Insert each r into the hole at the edge of the machine (A) and under the rail fastener (B) ‘0n tha lower needle bed. {See Fig. 104) Fasten the second handle onto the carriage. (Soa Fig. 105) you are using 92 Ply wool or lace cotton, fi the wool wax ‘onta the front yarn quide. ‘(Gee Fig. 198). Knitting machineincorporatesa FOR MODELS 585 & 583 tol it Knit several rows in plain stiteh, and hang the claw weights ‘onto the cast on comb. (See Fig. 197), Swivel the Sat Lever and set the needles according tothe pattern chart (Sea Fig. 108) ‘The lacy carriage will tanster thestitches from the needles that are set, onto the adjacertt needles inthe direction thatthe ‘L carriage is moved across, twill only transfer ontaa needle thats in B Positian, ITIS IMPORTANT THEREFORE THATNO TWO (OR MORE) ADJACENT NEEDLES ARE BROUGHT FORWARD TOGETHER. (See Fig, 108) 1 Inthe event that an end needle is brought forward (en the side away fromthe carriage) it ‘should be pushed baek by hand {a Position B. You can dathis without fear of the stitch. cropping, (See Fig. 108). orl 08 50 FITTING THE CARRIAGE The neadies atthe side of those Yyou.are using must all be in Position A, Pul the front partof the Carriage around the needia jgate, and lowertha back part nto the noodle bed {See Fig. 110}. Theclip at the hback should ga.under the back rallofthe needle bad. Move the Carriage sideways to check that firmly in place. no IF THE‘L’ CARRIAGE SHOULD JAM DURING ENITTING REFER TO PAGE 54 TO RELEASE IT, ‘Tounlack the carriage press the blue button atthe back and. roleasa it framunder the ral (See Fig 111). ‘Tarestthe ‘L”carriage on the ‘auniliary tail place i firmly in. pasition as shown, (See Fig. 112). HOW TO READ THE PATTERN CHART ‘The chart for lacy patterns differs from the ordinary chart in only one respect the end column on the right instead of roading “weaving colour thread” reads: LACY CARRIAGE DIRECTION. ‘Thesecond column an the left shows the direction of the knitting cariage only. The single arrow (—) means that the carriage must be moved across for one sow only inthe directionshown, The double arraw (—) mesns that the Carriage must be moved acrass and back— without any other oralterationsin between the tworows. REMEMBER: ALWAYS OPERATETHE‘L CARRIAGE BEFORE THE KNITTING CARRIAGE IF THEY ARE BOTH TO BE USED INTHATSTEP, ALWAYS SET THE NEEDLES BEFORE OPERATING THE “L CARRIAGE, EXAMPLE (1) Setthe dials and knobs according to the 1ststepot thechart. (2) Push down buttons 1 and 5 and) swivel the set lever. Ian ‘end needle is brought forward, push it back to B position bby hand (3) Movethe ‘L' carriage across in.One movement, from ightio fot, (4) Knitnwa rows with the Knitting Cerriege, NOW Repeatthe above from step 2 tostep 6 (each stepis identical, and represents two rowsof knitting =12 in all, For step 7 swivel the set lever, andmove the U’ casriage from LEFT to RIGHT. Knit? rows ‘with the Knitting Carriage. Repeatsiep 7 insteps 8 through to 12. 51 52 Maintenance ALL THE INSTRUCTION ON THE MACHINE IS NOW FINISHED AND YOU SHOULD GO BACK AND PRACTICE THE THINGS YOU ARE NOT SURE OF CLEANING AND OILING bottle of oils supplied in the aceessory box. Remove the cap end check thai the oil flaws through ante the bristles. ‘Clean the needle bed and the carriage slide rails witha clean 113 sloth, Oilthe front and rear rails lightly. (See Fig. 173). Oilthe butisafthe needles Tightly, making sure that it does not overflow and run down the needles below the bed (See Fig. 114) After wiping the carriage clean, fil the sides of the moving ‘cams, and the front and back rails Oil also the sidesaf the raylon plastic runners in the env. YOU SHOULD CLEAN AND ‘OILYOUR MACHINE BEFORE USING ITEVERY TIME. vd Itisimponantto remave welt all excessive ollto prevont drying Uparstaining of your wool Always eave a light filmof al nail parts between the rails Under the carriage. 54 IF THE 'L’ CARRIAGE SHOULD JAM Remave the’ carriage from its pinnapostion. ye rut of the L carriage 1 th’ carriage is caught with the needles, take care in removing it ‘Afterremoving the ‘Lcarriage, yOuean knit according to the cllowing steps (1) Ifyou see needles caught with each other, seperate them by lifting thelr tips, (2) lfstitches are caught on. two needles asshown by (a) in above figure, pull selected needios (b) tawsrd you and push them back together with needles (c) te position "Bin Order to transfer the stitches. (3) For other part, transfer the stitch of selected needios (b) withthe transfer tool tothe adjacent needies. (Foruse of the tanster tool, see page 25). HOW TO REMOVE THE WEAVING BRUSHES How taremovethe weaving brushes Set the laying-in pattem knobs topoation Nand remave the laving-In pattern brushes from the sinker plate assembly Set layingein pattern nabs Sinker plate ascerbly 0 position “te Insert clasp between shaft of laying:in bursh and spring all Class . the way. smart of taying in brush | Song of layingin bash 56 REPLACING A BENT OR BROKEN NEEDLE (1) Push either side of the felt bar with the end of thelaten tool until itcomes out, (2) Withdraw it by hand from the knitter until the naedie you wish to change is free. (3) Pullthe needle forward as faras i will go. Push down the hook ofthe needle until shank end of the needlenses ear of the needa be (4) Grasp the shank end and draw itaut backwards! (5) Replace it with a new needle by holding it with latch ‘opened. Push the felt bar back into place Trying your first garment CHILD'S. TWIN SET We are continuslly bringing out new pattern leafl featuring the latest designs, for sean their machines. To familiarise the neweamerto machine knitting with the instructigns.an these leaflets, ‘suggest that you try one of Garcigan :§ (5, 6) oz. Hayfield Hogal 4-ply wool (main colour) add amount Hayfield Regal dply wool (contrast colour) -4 buttons. 6, 6) oz, Haytiold ¥ wool: 3buttons Measurements Totita 22 (24.26) inch chest digan: Length 13 (144, 16) inches: sleeve seam 104 (112 ies, Jumper: Length 124 (14, 154) inches: sleeve seam 104.(11 4,13) (adjustable) Tension 1445ts. and 49} rows to 2 ins. Abbreviations K knit: st (s) stitch(es) ; rep. repeat: alt. alternate ; bea. beginning ; fol. following ; ine inerease ; dec. decrease H.C.L(s| Holding Cam Lover{s) ; T-tension ; 000. Set Raw Counter at 0. No instructions have bee forthe motit, we leave the choice to you, 58 Figures in brackets refer the larger sizes respectively, Matif is worked by hand. Push required needles to D pasition Push both PART buttons. Knit swithicontrast wool, Push remaining needles fo C. and knit with main woo! CARDIGAN (with motif) BACK Using odd wool, cast on 44 (48, 52) sts. onalt. naedies, K. 7 rows. Change tomain wool. T.3.K. 32 rows. Makea hem by picking up 1 st. row loops of main colour and placing on empty needies. T. 7. 600. Inc. st beg. nextrow. (88 (96, 104) sts.) K, until 58 (68, 78) rows have been worked Shape raglanarmholes Cast off 3sts. bea. next 2 rows : 2 (2, 2) sts. beg, next 2 rows, Dec. 7 st. both ends next and alt. rows 25 (27, 30) times. (26 90,92) st) T'6,K16r0W8, Hoff, RIGHT FRONT Using odd wool, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts. on alt. needles. K. 7 ows, Change te main wool, 1.3, k.32rows, Make ahem as Back. 7.000. Inc at tse edge (44, ( sts. 2rows Bag. on needle 17 (19, 21) follow chart for matif. (See notes). K-a further 41 (51,81) rows. Shape raglan armhole and neck Dec, 1 st, atneck edge, cast off 3sis. al aglen edge on next Fow. K. 1 row. Gastoff 2 (3,3) sts. beg. nextrow, K.1 row. Bec. 1 st at raglan edgean next and alt. tows. At the same time, dec. 1 st at neck edge on extend foll. 4 rows until 6 (6, 7) sts, remain. Keeping neck edge straight, continus raglan shaping until 2 st3.remain. K. 2 tog, and fasten off. LEFT FRONT Knitas Right Front reversing all shapings and motifs, SLEEVES Using odd wool, cast on 28 sition (30,32) sts. on att, needles. K. F rows, Change to main woo! T 3. 32 rows. Make hem ax Bock T. 7.000. Inc.1 st ext row, (86 (60.64) sts.) 7rows, Inc.1 st. both ends of ext and foll. 14th (12ih. 10th) rows (8. 10) times. (68 (76, 84) sts.). K.until 88 (100, 112) Tows have been worked. (Adjust length here. i required) Shape raglan ton Gast off 3 sts, beg.next 2eaws; 2 (3. 2) sts beg next 2 rows. Dec. 1st. both ends nextand alt rows 26 (27, 30) times. Cast off remaining § (10, 10)sts. Buttonhole Border Join frontraglan seam, With \wrong side facing, pick up98 (110,122) sts. evenly along, one front. T.6.K.5 rows. Counting from base of garment, make a butlonhole over needles 7-10 (8-11, 6-9}and every foll 12-15 (14-17, 17-10} needles a timesaltogeiher. K. Brows. Make buttanhotes as before. K-drows. Cast off loosely. Button Border Knitas Buttonhole Border, ‘omitting buttonholes, TO MAKE UP Pin out and press with a hot iron over damp cioth, Join sid, sleeve and back raglan seams. Turn Front Border to ‘wrong side.and catch down. Nesten buttonholes. Sewon ‘buttons, Prossall seams JUMPER BACK Using odd wool, castan 4 (48, 82) sts on alt. needles. K. rows. Change to main wool 1.3. K-32 rows, Make hem as Back of Cardigan. T. 7. 000. Inc. | st, bag. next row. (88 $96, 10d se) Kun a (6a 2) rows have been worked Shape raglan armholes ** Cast off 3st8, beg. net 2 rows 2 (3,3) sts. bog, next2 rows Dec. 1st. both endsand alt. rows 26 (27, 30) times, sitogethar, Cast offremaining 28:00, 22) ats FRONT iKnitas Back to * Dec. 1 st both ends of next and alt. rows 17.(18, 20) times altogether. Kt row. Divide for neck H.C L's Ill, Cast off 12 (14,16) sts, at centre. Push sts. at left to E postion. Koitght pat fist Continue raglan shaping, ¥. Traw. Cast off2 sts. atneck je on next and foil. att row. K.Zrows. Dec. 1 si. atneck ‘edge on next and foll. 4th row (4 (6, 6) sts.), Keeping neck edge straight, continue raglan shaping until 2 sts, remain. K.2 tag. and fasten off, Knit2nd side tomatch, SLEEVES Using add wool, cast on 27 (30, 33) sts. on alt needles, K-? rows. Change to main wool T.3, Ki 32 tows Makea hemas Back, Inc, 7 5, beg. row. (54 (60,68) sts). K.5 rows. Inc. 1 st. both ends of next and foll, 20th (18th. 18th) row 4 (5, 6) times, (B2 (70, 78) sts.). K until 86 (98, 112) rows have been worked. (Adjust length here if required). Shape raglan top Cast off 2 sts. beg. mext 2 (4. 4) rows, 7st, size any. K. 2 rows. Allsizes: Dec, 1st, both ends next and alt. rows 25 (27, 30) times. Cast off remaining 8 (8, 10) st NECKBAND Using odd wool, cast on St es 57} sts. on alt. needles. 7 rows, Change to main wool. T, 4. K. 3 rows. T. 3. K. rows. Td. K 3 rows. Make 8 hem as Back. Cast off loose TO MAKE UP Pin out and press with a hot ion over a damp cloth. Join Je, sleeve and raglan seams, leaving left back seam open tar 24 ins. Seve neckband in position. Work 2 tow of crochet round opening. making 3 loops on ‘one side, Sew on buttons, Press all seams, 12 Man’s fully fashioned polo neck sweater MATERIALS: 24 (25, 26) ozs of any Double Knitting Crepe, Thisgarmentshawnwas knitted in Cambridge D/Crepeavaitabie from Mail Order 8. Wools P.O, Box 25 High St Heckmondwike, Yorks, only, MEASUREMENTS: Toit chest 40 (42, 44) in.: length, 264 (27, 27{}in. ; sieeve seam, 37448, 184) in MAIN TENSION: 13 stitches. and 18 rowsto 2 inches ABBREVIATIONS : T. tension :t(s). —stiteh(es) : K. —knit; beg. —beginning; dec, decrease Ff, Fully fashioned (transfer the 3rd st. onto the ath needle then transfor the 6th st. onta the 4th naedlo. 3 sts. on I needle. Mave the sts along to fill up the spaces, leaving 2 empty needles at outside edge. Push ‘1 needle back to. position leaving 1 néediein B position, thoroby deo, 1 st, anly, Te achieve the best results do this dec. at the end away fram the ‘cartiag2) | H.C.L's —hoiding cam lever row counter tO; inc. ~inerease. NOTE: Instructions forthe longer sizes are in (_}, where only 1 figure is given this applisste al sizes, BACK:T. 4. Castan over alternate needles. 70 (73, 76) sis. K, 38 rows, Make ahem by placing each cast-an st.onto empty needias in A position (140 (1.46, 152) sts, T.Sand K.126 rows. * Shape raglan armholes: Castolf 2sts, at beg. of next 2rows. Dec. 1st 14 at theend of every following tow until 42 (44, 46) sts. remain. Castoff. FRONT: Work as for back until * Shape raglan armholes: Castoff 2sts. at beg. of next 2 rows, Dec. 1st (4. at end of every following row until 6B (70,72) sts. remain. Shape front neck: Witha spare length of wool, cast off ‘the centre 20 (22, 24) sts, Push 24 sts, at left to E position. H.C.Us at liland &.the right part only. Continue raglan shaping as before. At the same ecast off 2sts. at beg. of Srowstrom neck edge. then dec. 1 st. at the beg. of avery following th row from neck edge, 3times in all. After the lost dec. at neck edge continue todec. at sideedge only until 2 sts. remain. Cast off K the feft side to match, SLEEVES (alike) :T. 4 Caston over alternate needies 34 (36,38) sts, K. 38 rows, Make a hem as for back. (68 (72, 76) $15.) T. 8.000. K. Brows Inc. 11st. ai both ends of the next rowand every following 6th row until 110 (116. 122) sts Work without further shaping until 140 (144, 148) rows from 900, ‘Shape ragian top: Castolf Somat beg of next 2rows Dec. 1 st. atend of every following row until 12 (14, 16) #8. remain. Cast off POLO COLLAR: T. 6. Caston ‘over sltemate needles 70 (74.78) sts. K.12s0ws. T. 4. K.34 rows. T.5, K, 12rows. Make a hom.as for back Cast off loasely. TO COMPLETE: Press work onthe wrong side witha hot lronavera dame cloth, Join raglan seams, Joinside and sleeve seams, Stitch polo callarto neck edge. Folding up the knitter 60 FOR MODELS 585 & 588 0. 1) Remove the auxiliaryail (iftupand pull it) sustary 1 (2) Replace the auxiliary rails in the uppercase arshownin figure. lips inthe FOR ALL MODELS (1) Replace the cast on comb inthecase Fi ie this part est 61 (5) Fold up the automatic yarn Tension unit, Remove the automatic yarn tension wai (3) Replace the automatic yarn tension unitasshowrin figure. (Fitthe head A of automatic vammtension unit under the Clesp1B of the case.) (4) Place tha yarn tension rod ‘and the take-up spring beside ‘comb and put them inside of hook C. ‘And place the sinker plate as shown in figure. FOR MODELS 585 & 588 ONLY (8) Remove handle from the 'L* carriage and replace the 'L’ ‘cariage a5 shown in figure, 62 (10) Close the springs. FOR ALL MODELS {8} Removethe set lever, push down therelease button, set the roversaleverta + and push bark all needios to position ‘A (6) Takeout thecariage lock from the accessories box and lock carriage-on the left end of the needle bed. (7) Pullout therow counter, (8) Remove the accessory tray bby sliding as indicated by. arrows, 63 (15) Remove the handle of the [ee

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