Cutting:

In most circumstances (except one-piece knitted garments), garments are assembled

from several components. This is essential to establish profile/ shape to the garments,
to overcome the constraints of fabric width. The cutting is the process of reproduction of
shape of pattern pieces in the fabric during the production of garments. The cut fabric
panels are then joined using a series of stitches and seams to produce three-
dimensional garments. 

Working Process of Cutting Department in Apparel Industry: 

The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely,
consistent with the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary
volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work. The process flow in the
cutting department is given below. 

Fig: Fabric cutting section

Process flow chart in cutting section in garment industry:

Marker making 
↓ 
Fabric spreading 
↓ 
Placing marker paper on the lay 
↓ 
100% inspection of parts and replacement of parts if needed 
↓ 
 Numbering 
↓ 
Fabric cutting 
↓ 
Sorting and bundling 
↓ 
Input to sewing department

The four main operations or processes involved in the cutting section in apparel
industry are: 

 Marker planning
 Fabric spreading
 Fabric cutting
 Preparation for the assembling process
Lay planning and marker making processes: 
When all the necessary data about the textile materials delivered to the cutting room
have been obtained, lay planning and marker making processes may be further work
processes in the cutting room. Several factors that influence productivity and work
efficiency in the cutting room are taken into account in performing the lay planning
process. The most important of these are: 

 The number of articles ordered for each size of a style;

 The optimum use of the fabric to minimise any fabric wastage;
 The technological limits of the spreading and cutting processes;
 The optimum use of time and labour.
To organize an efficient work process in a cutting room, two or more garment sizes are
typically combined in every marker, the number of fabric plies (or layers) in every
spread and the number of spreads needed for the markers required are determined.
 
In accordance with the customer’s specification, markers for all ordered pieces, sizes
and quantities required are created. Taking into account fabric quality, type of pattern
(e.g. striped, check etc.) and style, the pattern pieces are placed in the marker in the
right position and as close to each other as possible to obtain the most efficient use of
the fabric. Nowadays marker making is often automated. Special nesting software
allows creation of a marker on a computer screen and makes the work process quicker
and easier by allowing the user to reconfigure the arrangement of pattern pieces to get
the best arrangement of the marker. Markers can be also created automatically using
the right software. 

Fabric Spreading Process: 

Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the
pieces placed one above another in many plies. The length of the cut fabric ply is
determined by the shape, size and number of the components to be cut from it.
Spreading also involves placing layers (or plies) of fabric on top of one another. The
number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the
technical limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes. Spreading process may
be either manual or automated. We have also published article on fabric spreading in
apparel industry. You can see below. 

Fabric Cutting Process: 

Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as a replica of
pattern pieces on a marker. It also involves transferring marks and notches from the
marker to garment components to facilitate sewing. The cutting process is frequently
done in two stages: rough cutting and the final accurate cutting. 

Objectives of cutting: 
The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in the
marker plan. In attaining this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled. 

Accuracy of cut: 
The garment components have to be cut accurately and precisely as per the shape of
the pattern to facilitate assembling process and for better fitting of garments. The
effortlessness in achieving this accuracy is based on the cutting method engaged and
on the marker. 

Clean edges: 
The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging. These defects are
due to an imperfectly sharpened knife, which could result in heat generation due to
friction with fabric which leads to fabric damage. The heat generation during cutting with
knives could be reduced by means of using sharpened knife blades, serrated or wavy
edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion paper between fabric, spraying of lubricant over the
blades and reducing the lay height and blade. 

Support of the lay: 

The cutting method should provide the support for the fabric in addition to allow the
blade to pierce the lowest ply of a spread and separate all the plies. 

Consistent cutting: 
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height will vary. To get a consistent
quality of cutting, the lay height should be as low as possible without affecting the
production planning and quality of cutting. 

Preparation for Cutting: 

After the laying process has been completed, the spreader has to recount the numbers
of plies as in the cutting ticket. Then the following additional steps have to done prior to
cutting. 

Moving the spreading machine aside: 

The spreading operator will place the spreading machine aside and remove catchers if
they were used. The spreading machine must be placed back far enough from the lay to
permit the cutter to work. 

Facilitating shrinkage of the lay: 

If the lay is knitted fabric, then the lay should be cut into sections and left on the
spreading table overnight to relax. These sections are cut at natural splice sections in
the lay. The cutter would cut between the components through the fabric width to
release the tension in the plies nearby the table. 

Rechecking the marker: 

After the spreading process is completed, the marker is kept on top of the spread. The
beginning line in the marker is aligned at the starting point of the spread. The spreader
has to ensure that the length and width of the spread matches with the length and width
of the marker. 

Fastening the marker to the spread: 

The methods for fastening the marker to the lay of fabric are given below. 

 Cloth weights – Cloth weights made of metal about 2–10 lb can be used to
hold the marker down on the lay.
 Lay tacks (sharp staples) – In this method a lay tacker, similar to a stapler, is
utilised to hold the marker by pressing them with the top layer of fabric to keep the
marker in place and stabilise the spread.
 Straight T-pins – Straight T-pins of 1 ½″ to 3″ long are used on softer woven
fabrics such as wools and wool blends, and terry cloth.
 Light spray adhesive – In this method, the bottom portion of the marker is
covered with a rubber type adhesive to hold the marker to the top layer of the fabric
and it can be easily separated after cutting.
Methods of Fabric Cutting: 
Generally there are two types of fabric cutting techniques; they are portable cutting and
stationary cutting. With the advancement in technology there have been improvements
in fabric techniques also like Automated, Numerically Controlled cutting systems, which
has Automatic blade cutting, Laser cutting, Water jet cutting, Die cutting etc. I have
published a comprehensive article on methods of fabric cutting. 

You may also like: Methods of Fabric Cutting in Garment Industry

 
Preparation of Cut Work for Sewing Room: 
The essential preparatory activities for sewing are bundling, shade separation,
indicating the face side of the fabrics and work ticketing. 

Bundling: 
Most of the sewing rooms use the bundling system, where small batches of garments
move from one workstation to another in a controlled manner. In order to prepare the
cut work, it is essential for operators to be able to identify each pile. This is the function
of the marker, if used, as the style number, the size and the part identification will be
part of the plot. If markers are not used, a top-ply labelling system is required. 

Shade separation: 
Shade variation in fabric roll is common. However, within the batch of cut components,
there are likely to be shade differences. It can be ensured in cutting sections by
inserting tissue paper between every piece. With quality outerwear garments, it is quite
common to give every garment piece a pressure-sensitive adhesive ticket with a ply
number known as soabaring. 

Indication of the face side of fabrics: 

Few fabrics have a noticeable difference between the face and back, which does not
pose any problem for machinists to identify it. However, the fabrics that are identical on
both sides pose a problem. The need for identification of face side becomes crucial
when there is a close resemblance between the face and the back side of the fabric.
Right side identification may use soabar tickets, whereby the ply number is always
positioned on the fabric face. 

Work ticketing: 
Whenever the bundling system is used, it should be accompanied by work tickets or
bundle tickets. It gives fundamental information about the work such as the style
number, the size of the garment, the number of garments in the bundle and the date
issued. Work tickets are usually created on site once the outcome of spreading/cutting
is known.
Garment Cutters:
Fabric Cutting Tools Used in Apparel Industry:
Cutting department is an important department in readymade apparel industry.
Cutting department is nothing without fabric cutting machines. There are so many
cutting tools have used to cut the fabric in apparel sector. Among those, some mostly
used cutting tools or fabric cutting machines have explained in this article with their
features and images.
You may follow Cutting Cost Calculation Formula | Fabric Cutting Cost in
Bangladesh
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machines Used in Apparel Manufacturing:
Fabric cutting machines which are vastly used in apparel manufacturing industry have
pointed out in the below:
1. Straight knife cutting m/c,
2. Band knife cutting m/c,
3. Round knife cutting m/c,
4. Die cutting m/c,
5. Notcher cutting m/c,
6. Drill cutting m/c,
7. Computer controlled knife cutting m/c,
8. Laser beam cutting m/c,
 9. Water Jet cutting m/c,
10. Plasma torch cutting m/c.
Features of all the above fabric cutting machines have presented in the following
with their pictures:
1. Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
Features of Straight Knife Cutting M/C:
 Here, knife is driven by using electric power.
 Straight edge is mostly used in straight knife.
 Here, blade stroke varies from 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 During cutting, grinding wheel helps to sharp the cutting knife.
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 This type of knife can cut heavy fabric i.e. canvas and denim fabric.
Fig: Straight knife cutting machine
2. Band Knife Cutting Machine:
Features of Band Knife Cutting M/C:
 This type of knife consists of a series of three or more pulleys which are powered
by electric motor.
 Band knife blade is normally narrower than straight knife.
 Here, cutting knife is endless in shape and also flexible.
 It is one kinds of saw mill cutter.
Fig: Band knife cutting machine
3. Round Knife Cutting Machine:
Features of Round Knife Cutting M/C:
 Some key elements of round knife fabric cutting machines are base plate,
electric motor, circular blade etc.
 Band knife blade is circular.
 Band knife blade diameter ranges from 6 to 20cm.
 This type of blade is driven by electric power.
Fig: Round knife cutting machine
4. Die Cutting Machine:
Features of Die Cutting M/C:
 Pressers and clickers are mainly two types of die cuttings are available.
 To cut sharp and small parts it is mostly used in apparel industry.
 Important parts of this fabric cutting machines are blade, motor, ram head etc.
 Die is made by metallic strip.
Fig: Die cutting machine
5. Notcher Cutting Machine:
Features of Notcher Cutting M/C:
 It is special type of cutting machine.
 It is used in special cases.
 The notch can be made in V-shape or U-shape.
 It is used to cut notch in the edge of some important components.
Fig: Notcher cutting machine
6.Drill Cutting Machine:
Features of Drill Cutting M/C:
 The main components of this fabric cutting machines are motor, base plate, drill
and spirit level.
 In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole. So that it can easy
to find the marked place.
 In case of tightly woven fabric, drill is permanent for long to making hole.
Fig: Drill cutting machine
7. Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine:
Features of Computer Controlled Knife Cutting M/C:
 Computer controlled knife cutting method provides the most accurate possible
cutting at high speed.
 Here, cutting knife is very hard and oval shaped.
 During cutting, marker is not needed to put over the fabric lay.
 Cutting blade is made of stainless steel.
 Sharpness of knife is also high here.
 This type of fabric cutting machines followed the CAD (computer aided design)
system.
  Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer programme.

Fig: Computer controlled knife cutting machine

8. Laser Beam Cutting Machine:
Features of Laser Beam Cutting M/C:
 In case of laser beam fabric cutting machines, cutting head is controlled by
computer.
 Here, fabric is cut at a speed of 13m per minute.
 In case of this cutting process, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot
using laser.
 When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material and cutting
process is done by vaporization.
 Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm which is high powerful.
Fig: Laser beam cutting machine
9. Water Jet Cutting Machine:
Features of Water Jet Cutting M/C:
 In this machine, a catcher in the bottom of fabric lays which is used with the
same speed and the same direction of water jet machine.
 Here, pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch.
 Here, a thin jet of water is passed through a nozzle in a very momentum.
 Water is worked as like as hard and sharp knife which helps to cut the fabric
easily.
Fig: Water jet cutting machine
10. Plasma Torch Cutting Machine:
Features of Plasma Torch Cutting M/C:
 By using these fabric cutting machines, one or more fabric plies can be cut.
 Here, fabrics are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by argon gas.
 To cut single ply of fabric it is most used.
Fig: Plasma torch fabric cutting machines

Pattern Markings in Garment Manufacturing

Marking refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of
patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric in order to make garments.Pattern
making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design
interpretation and a practical understanding of the process technology used by the
factory.
APPARELPRE-PRODUCTION
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Pattern Markings

Once the pattern is graded, the fabric must be

prepared for cutting. In order to spread the fabric properly, the spreader must know how
the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. “Marking” refers to the process of placing
pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece
of fabric. Firms strive for “tight” markers largely because the fabric is one of a
manufacturer’s most significant business costs, often exceeding the cost of labor.

Although markers can be made by hand or using CAD software, the computerized
method is up to eight times faster. Once a marker is completed, a CAD system can use
a plotter to print a full-size layout on a long sheet of paper. This layout becomes the
guide for the cutter.

Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so
the fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance with the patterns are
attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in
such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during a cutting operation.
After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to
order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is
important in this step.

Computer marking is done on specialized software. In computerized marking there is no

need for large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical
calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style
or construction technique. Layout and cutting markings don’t need to be transferred to
the
fabric. Construction markings, on the other hand, are very helpful during the
sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea.

Pre-Layout Markings

Pattern Adjustment Lines: Two parallel lines that indicate where you can lengthen or
shorten a
pattern piece to maintain the original shaping. This should be done before layout.
Waistline Marking: A short solid line that indicates the natural waistline of the wearer.
During tissue-fitting, if the waistline is not in the same position as the pattern marking,
an adjustment may be needed on the Pattern Adjustment Lines.

Making the marker

Marker making is the creation of cutting temples for the various parts of a garment. This
may be done on the cardboard or paper, the former being more durable. In some cases,
markers are made on continuous rolls of paper for efficiency.Form all the pattern pieces
of varying size, a master marker is made. The marker is the cutting guide or pattern.
Layout made on a sheet or lightweight paper the same width as the fabric. The purpose
of the marker is threefold:

 To make a layout for the cutter to allow

 To place pattern pieces close together to avoid fabric waste
 To accommodate the cutting order (ensuring that the correct quantities of each
size are cut).

The desire economical use of space is called a tight marker, which utilizes the highest
percentage of fabric possible to avoid waste. Patterns are laid out so that each size and
color is cut as needed (popular sizes are repeated on the marker). Grain direction, one-
way prints, plaids, stripes, and naps are considered in making the marker.

Computerized marker making. Most manufacturers now make their marker on a CAD
system or have it made by an outside service. Miniatures of the graded pattern pieces
are displayed graphically on the computer screen. The operator can electronically
position the pattern pieces into the most efficient arrangement. Once the marker is
completed, a full-scale marker is printed by the plotter on a long sheet of paper.

General information on the Pattern marking

Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or
construction technique. Layout and cutting markings don’t need to be transferred to the
fabric. Construction markings, on the other hand, are very helpful during the sewing
process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea.

Every pattern piece has general information printed in the center. Each piece is
numbered and the number indicates the order in which the pieces are sewn together.

For example:
Skirt Front 1 is joined to Skirt Back 2.

Other helpful information includes:

 Pattern brand and style number

 View letter (if there is more than one view)
 Size
 Name of the piece (skirt front, sleeve, pleat underlay, etc.) and its number
 Cutting information (cut one on the fold, cut two, etc.)
 Lining/interfacing information (if applicable)