67 guide

Saltwater aquariums

Successful setup
Natural care
 Contents
The sea: An incredible living world ......... 3
Which marine animals are suitable
and which are not? .................................... 4
Preparing your natural biotope .............. 7
Aquarium setup:
The substrate .............................................. 8
Biofilter components ................................ 9
Biofiltration ................................................. 10
Technical equipment ................................. 11
Saltwater ...................................................... 12
The landscape ............................................. 13
The new environment
needs time to grow ................................... 14
Introducing and acclimatizing
the marine animals .................................... 15
2
Every animal has its own
nutritional requirements .......................... 16
Healthy treats & specialties ...................... 17
Regular maintenance:
Checking the water ................................... 18
The interaction of pH, CO2 and
carbonate hardness ................................... 22
From ammonium to nitrate:
The nitrogen cycle ..................................... 24
The calcium level ........................................ 26
Strontium and trace elements ................ 27
What to do if a marine
animal gets sick? ........................................ 28
What you always wanted
to know about saltwater .......................... 31
 The sea: An incredible living world

Almost two thirds of the earth’s surface is covered with water

– the vast majority of it open ocean. Yet with all this area, the
highest concentrations of fish species exist close to the coral
reefs and atolls. Many of the species living in shallow regions
can make a comfortable home in saltwater aquariums, as they
prefer moderate or warm tropical water and little space.

A reef aquarium itself is a small ecosystem influenced by

many factors. Over the years, aquarists have had more and
more success in keeping soft corals for long healthy lives and
finding success at breeding marine fish, which had proven
difficult for many years.

Before setting up your own saltwater aquarium, take a few

minutes to look through this guide. In it you’ll discover the
first, but most important, steps to setting up a stunning,
healthy saltwater aquarium. This guide is not meant to
replace the necessary technical literature that explains and
guides you through the exact care for specific organisms –
but instead it will help you identify the basics, so that you can
do further research on your own. Enjoy the experience!

3
 Which marine animals are suitable
and which are not?
First, let’s look at the inhabitants of a saltwa-
ter aquarium. If corals, shrimps, and other in-
vertebrates are to be kept in the same aquar-
ium, your choice of compatible fish is
reduced. Many fish are predators, and will
eat smaller fish, shrimps, or coral tentacles.
Even peaceful fish can cause problems:
Seahorses, for example, must be fed fre-
quently, which can lead to water pollution,
and they are notoriously slow eaters – so
their food is often eaten by other fish. An-
thias species are very beautiful but also very
demanding fish.

Easy-to-keep fish for first-time marine aquarists

These fish can be kept in the same aquarium
as invertebrates:

Damselfish (Chromis, Dascyllus, Chrysiptera) Gobies (Cryptocentrus, Valencienna)

Cardinal fish (Sphaeramia, former Apogon) Clownfish (Amphiprion)

Wrasses (Macropharyngodon) Surgeonfish/Tangs (Acanthurus, Zebrasoma)

4
 Which marine animals are suitable
and which are not?
Corals
Some corals live in a symbiotic relationship Africana (soft corals), and Tubastrea sp. – at
with unicellular algae called zooxanthellae. least during the early stages of your marine
These organisms live in the coral’s tissue, aquarium experience.
providing them with all nutrients they
With well-maintained water, these inverte-
require – without being fed by humans!
brates make hardy aquarium inhabitants:
Other coral species do not feed via zooxan-
thellae, and must be fed, which leads to
heavily polluted water conditions. sera rec-
ommends avoiding these species – such as
Pennatulacea sp. (sea feather), Lemnalia

Leather corals (Sarcophyton, Lobophyton, Mushroom anemones (Discosoma)

Sinularia)

Anemones (e.g., symbiotic anemones for Colonial anemones (Protopalythoa, Zoan-

clownfish) thus)

With some experience also stony corals

(Acropora, Porites, etc.)

5
 Which marine animals are suitable
and which are not?
Shrimps
While many shrimp species are easy to keep,
one of the most colorful and fascinating
shrimps is the Hippolysmata grabhami,
known as the “White banded cleaner
shrimp”. This shrimp not only cleans-up food
leftovers but cleans the ectoparasites from
your fish as well!

Sea urchins
Although most sea urchins live on a variety
of sea grasses many feed on decaying organ-
ic matter or algae – making them wonderful
housekeepers for your marine aquarium.

Sea cucumbers
Known for their cucumber-shaped body,
these animals eat plankton and decaying
matter that is suspended in the water or
buried in the sand. Consult your retailer
before buying a sea cucumber, though,
some species can release sticky or toxic sub-
stances into the water.

6
 Preparing your natural biotope
Aquarium size
Keep this rule in mind when choosing an
aquarium: The larger the aquarium, the eas-
ier it is to maintain.
Larger volumes of water are less easily dis-
rupted by a small fluctuation to water
parameters than smaller volumes because
the change has more area in which to dissi-
pate – the parameters remain fairly constant.
The same fluctuation to a smaller volume of
water could provide a severe jolt to the
whole biological condition.
Aside from water parameter considerations
when buying an aquarium, you also need to
consider the fish. Most marine fish require
substantial territories to defend. For these
reasons, sera recommends a 200-liter (53 gal.)
tank, or a 100-liter (26 gal.) at the minimum.
If a bio filter system, a trickle filter for exam-
ple, is to be installed under the aquarium,
ensure that a sufficiently large overflow hole
is drilled as a water outlet.
Optimal lighting
Fluorescent tubes, metal halide lamp (HQI) or
their successors HCI or CDM, or a combina-
tion of both, are used for lighting saltwater
aquariums.
If fluorescent tubes are used, the water
depth must not exceed 50 cm (20 in.). You
can use the sera Combi-Reflectors to
increase light intensity by up to 100%.
For a double-hood aquarium using
fluorescent tubes only, sera rec-
ommends combining light spec-
trums for optimal conditions.
Consider the sera deep sea
special as a foreground tube; it
provides actinic blue marine light
and, with a specific light spec-
trum of 380 – 450 nm, it ensures
tropical reef light conditions.
Growth and coloration of inver-
tebrates are strongly enhanced
by the blue light spectrum. We
recommend the sera blue sky
Royal for supplying the saltwa-
ter tank with tropical daylight.
Always combine a metal halide lamp with a
blue light tube – the sera deep sea special
for example – in aquariums stocked with
invertebrates that require plenty of light, or
if the aquarium is deeper than 50 cm (20 in.).
This ensures the best possible display of
your corals’ magnificent color.
Support and location
Place the aquarium on a Styrofoam or foam
pad (sera thermo-safe) to prevent the glass
from cracking. Install the aquarium away
from direct sunlight to reduce the risk of
algae growth.
7
 Aquarium setup: The substrate

The most important task of the substrate is to provide addi-

tional settling space for bacteria with a high oxygen demand
(aerobic) in the upper layers, and for bacteria that live with-
out oxygen (anaerobic) in the lower layers.

Coarse coral sand is the ideal choice for a saltwater aquarium.

It is visually attractive, and because of its high lime content it
helps stabilize the pH value.

Some fish species, such as wrasses and gobies, need a sandy

area to dig themselves into for the night. A separate area with
coral or quartz sand should be provided for these animals.
Consult your retailer for details on the proper depth for your
specific fish species.

The remaining surface should be covered with a coarse coral

sand layer of about 3 cm (1 in.). sera recommends using a rock
border between the different substrates to prevent them
from mixing.

8
 Aquarium setup: Biofilter components

The saltwater is purified in several steps within the sera inter-

nal biofilters B 200 and B 400.

sera filter wool

sera biofibres

sera biopur sera super carbon

sera biofibres

e.g. sera siporax®

1. Prefiltration
(Mechanical water purification)
sera filter wool and sera biofibres catch the large, solid dirt
particles – such as uneaten food or clumped dead algae –
from entering your primary filter. This prefilter media must
be cleaned regularly to maintain the maximum water flow
rate, and to prevent additional pollution from the decaying
particles. The prefilter’s primary focus is to give the biofilter
the best chance at breeding bacterial colonies, undisturbed.

2. Main filtration
(Biological water purification)
Your biological filter is home to the useful bacteria that bio-
logically break down the pollutants in your aquarium. sera
biopur and sera siporax provide the ideal settling conditions
for this bacterial colony. One liter (10 oz.) of sera siporax has
the same biological breakdown capacity as 34 liters (approx. a
9 gal. pail) of ceramic material. To collect any stray large dirt
particles, separate the sera biopur and sera siporax with an
additional layer of sera biofibres. We also recommend adding
a regular dose of sera ammovec, nitrifying bacteria for salt-
water aquariums, to your biofilter.
Clean this filter as seldom as possible to avoid destroying the
bacterial colonies, which already struggle to multiply in salt-
water conditions.

9
 Aquarium setup: Biofiltration

Biological breakdown of Millions of useful sera ammovec

nitrifying bacteria settle within
pollutants within the sera siporax to clean the aquari-
filtering cycle um water.

The large open-pored tunnel structure

of sera siporax provides a natural living
space for these microorganisms, which
convert clumps of dead algae, uneaten food,
and fish waste into ammonium. Each sera
siporax ring is composed
of a highly porous material
that ensures that a thick
layer of outer bacteria
develops and is supplied
with nutrients and water
for growth. As the inner
pores fill-in, a low-oxygen
thriving bacteria inhabits
the ring centers. These
break-down nitrate and release beneficial
nitrogen into the water.

sera ammovec nitrifying filter bacteria

convert clumps of dead algae, uneaten
food, and fish waste into ammonium.

Ammonia and ammonium are then con-

verted to nitrite by a second type of filter
bacteria.

Yet a third form of bacteria converts the

nitrite into nitrate. As nitrate promotes the
growth of algae and is especially harmful
for invertebrates, a slow flux filter with
sera siporax provides a dedicated solution
by biologically breaking-down the nitrate.

Skimmers reduce pollution in saltwater

caused by protein and other organic sub-
stances. They must be cleaned regularly to
prevent skimmed-off waste from re-enter-
ing the aquarium.

10
 Aquarium setup: Technical equipment

Filter Thermostat control heaters

The sera internal biofilter B was developed The sera aquarium heaters should be placed
according to the requirements for optimal in the clear water chamber of the sera inter-
filtration. It is easily nal biofilter B to prevent wandering inverte-
accessible from the brates, such as anemones or snails, from
top, so the prefilter being caught and injured.
media can be changed
without disturbing the
biologically active pri-
mary filter media. With
its practical three
chamber design (see
pg. 9), this filter lets
you exchange a variety
of filter media, such as
active carbon, as necessary, without disman-
tling the entire filter.
The integrated surface skimmer of the sera
internal biofilter B reliably removes organic
300 watts 250 watts 200 watts 150 watts 100 watts 75 watts 50 watts 25 watts
waste and unwanted surface protein film. 35 cm/ 35 cm/ 30 cm/ 30 cm/ 22 cm/ 22 cm/ 18.5 cm/ 18.5 cm/
13.8 in. 13.8 in. 11.8 in. 11.8 in. 8.7 in. 8.7 in. 7.3 in. 7.3 in.
You can achieve increased filtering perform-
ance from internal filters that use a sponge
cartridge by using sera siporax in the pri-
mary filter chamber, and sera biofibres or
sera biopur in the prefilter.
Pumps
The sera internal filters L 60, L 150, and L 300 Powerheads are the heart of a saltwater
are ideal for quarantine, breeding, and live aquarium. They provide the animals with
food aquariums up to 300 liters. In addition natural water movement and changing cur-
to water filtration, they also oxygenate the rents such as high and low tide, which can
water, and the fine-pored external sponge easily be imitated by timers.
prevents small animals, Correct placement is critical to ensure there
such as sea cucumbers, are no “dead spots” in which food and decay-
from being trapped in ing matter can accumulate.
the filter. To achieve the constant motion, use several
sera submersible pumps to keep the water
moving in front and behind the live rock.
With sera submersible pumps, the water
intake pipe can be protected by a sponge.
Thus, small animals are prevented from
being trapped inside the pump.

11
 Aquarium setup: Saltwater

Sea salt: The crucial starting Adjusting for exact salinity

point
As the use of natural saltwater is not practi-
cal, aquarium saltwater must be prepared
from purified (reverse osmosis) water and
sea salt. Saltwater organisms in aquariums
require stable, constant salt conditions. sera
sea salt dissolves rapidly and homogenously
throughout your aquarium to form crystal
clear saltwater. The natural pH and KH bal-
ance forms a buffer that maintains a precise
and correct pH range. sera sea salt is free
from nitrate, silicate, and phosphate, and its
prepared saltwater has the biologically cor-
rect calcium and magnesium levels.
There are two methods:
1 When the free floating sera hydrometer
is used for testing, it displays the densi-
ty of the water on an integrated scale. For
example, in aquariums with inver-
tebrates, the density should be
between 1.022 and 1.024 g/cm3 at a
water temperature of 25°C (77°F). If
the temperature of the aquarium
water differs from this value, then
the estimated density would need
to be converted in accordance
with an appropriate table, such as
the one below.

Density Salinity Salinity Salinity

at 33 ‰ 34.5 ‰ 36 ‰
16°C 1.025 g/cm3 1.026 g/cm3 1.0265 g/cm3
20°C 1.0235 g/cm3 1.025 g/cm3 1.0255 g/cm3
25°C 1.022 g/cm3 1.023 g/cm3 1.024 g/cm3
28°C 1.0215 g/cm3 1.0225 g/cm3 1.023 g/cm3
30°C 1.020 g/cm3 1.0215 g/cm3 1.0225 g/cm3

Preparing the aquarium

water
Fill the empty aquarium with purified
(reverse osmosis) water and add
the prescribed amount of sea
salt. sera sea salt dissolves with
no residue. When the last salt
grains disappear, condition the
water with sera aqumarin. Use
powerheads, placed on the
aquarium floor, to agitate the
water for 24 hours. Use a ther-
mostatically controlled heater
to warm the water to the
desired temperature.
2 The salt concentration of brackish water
or saltwater as well as the total pollution
degree of freshwater are determined via the
conductivity. The sera conductivity meter
can be easily switched from the µS/cm
(freshwater) to the mS/cm (saltwater) range
and thus has a broad
application range. It is
ideal for owners with
many aquariums, for
breeders, and for the spe-
cialty trade. Further appli-
cations are, for example,
quality control of R/O
(reverse osmosis) water,
and monitoring the water
for salt that might be
released by the decorations or active carbon.

Salt concentration too high: Dilute with puri-

fied water.

Salt concentration too low: Raise by carefully

adding sea salt.

12
 Aquarium setup: The landscape

There are no limits to your underwater landscape design

when you use your imagination. Ensuring the construction is
stable, though, is important. Aquarists often use all-plastic
cable fasteners and silicon to secure the decorations.

Place an acrylic panel at the bottom of the aquarium to pro-

tect the glass against damage from the constructions.

The aquarium should preferably be decorated with “live

rock.” Why it is called “live” will be obvious after several days.

Along with the live rock, dolomite, sand stone, granite, lava
rock, and tufa are other choices.

Fish, crabs, and other animals in the saltwater aquarium

need stones for hiding. Shelters, caves, and ledges are simple
to build with reef rocks.

13
 The new environment needs time to grow
Development of
useful bacteria
After you have decorated your aquatic
world, it needs some time to colonize sever-
al strains of bacteria, which will break down
pollutants and inhibit the rise of
dangerous ammonia and nitrite
levels (see page 10). Bacteria
multiply slowly in saltwater envi-
ronments, so we recommend
giving your aquarium a head
start by adding sera ammovec
nitrifying bacteria.
During this start-up phase, ammonium and
nitrite levels should be monitored frequent-
ly with the sera ammonium/ammonia-Test
and sera nitrite-Test. When values are in a
safe zone, invertebrates and fish can be
introduced over the course of time. Check
with your specialty retailer for advice.
14
Watch your aquarium come
to life!
Many small animals and almost certainly a
variety of beautiful algae species will have
entered the aquarium with the “live rock,”
and will become visible as days go by.
If any of these animals, such as sponges, do
not survive, they must be removed immedi-
ately to prevent pollution as a result of
decay. In any case, another dose of sera
ammovec should be added.
Lighting
For the first week, refrain from turning on
the aquarium lighting to prevent detrimen-
tal algae growth.
Begin lighting the second week, increasing
the time by an hour or two a day. The live
rock begins developing, and every day there
are new organisms to discover. You will see
anemones, ornamental algae, crustaceans,
and other animals populate your miniature
reef.
 Introducing and acclimatizing the marine animals

Some marine animals must never leave the
water. During transport, even a few seconds
of exposure to air can be lethal. Among
these air-sensitive animals are sea urchins,
sea cucumbers, starfish, and pufferfish.
When the new inhabitants are acclimatized
to the aquarium water, carefully transfer
them to the aquarium. A large glass contain-
er is ideal for moving them. Remember that
they must never come in contact with air!

sera aqumarin supports the fish’s healing

processes of the mucous membrane if it has
been damaged during transport.

Always purchase bred animals

when possible – and only those
that are suitable for your aquar-
ium!

When purchasing these animals, ensure they

are placed in the transport bag under water,
and ask your retailer for specific instructions
on introducing them into your aquarium.

Generally, the transport bags with the newly

purchased fish and invertebrates should be
opened and securely placed side-by-side in a
bucket, and for the following half-hour, drip
aquarium water into the transport bags. An
air hose fitted with a suction cup and clamp
is ideal for this job. By doing this, the animals
can adapt to the new water temperature as
well as the new water parameters. Place the
bucket in a darkened area to reduce stress
and help calm the animals.

15
 Every animal has its own nutritional requirements

Staple diets
Compared to freshwater fish, marine fish
require much more iodine and other miner-
als. More than fifty different ingredients in
sera fish foods ensure a well balanced diet sera GVG-mix marin is a flake
for the aquarium inhabitants. This helps sup- food with added tidbits for
port the immune system and prevents defi- marine fish. This versatile
ciencies. All sera foods are especially low in basic food contains iodine
phosphate. and other minerals from
marine algae, krill, plankton,
and other valuable ingredients
such as bloodworms, daphnia, and artemia
shrimps.
sera marinvit plus for ornamen-
tal algae, stony corals and other
invertebrates. This nutrient
complex contains strontium and
trace elements in biologically
correct amounts.
sera granumarin is an ideal
food for fish that search for
sera coraliquid, a plankton- their food between coral
based, energy-rich liquid food, branches, in the middle of
was specially developed for fil- the water, or near the bot-
trating invertebrates. tom. It sinks slowly, softens
quickly but nevertheless
keeps its solid consistency.
Therefore, water pollution is largely avoided.

16
 Healthy treats & specialties

sera flora provides herbi- sera FD Shrimp, made of

vores (plant eaters) with tender brine shrimp is a
essential vegetable pro- tasty treat for all saltwater
teins, minerals and rough- fish.
age.

sera O-nip tablets consist of

50% freeze-dried food ani-
mals and 50% high quality
flake food, making it an ideal
diet for all animals. sera O-nip
tablets can be attached to
the aquarium glass, and will bring even shy
animals into view.
sera microgran for young fish
and small mouthed species is a
nutritious blend of ingredients
plus added multi-vitamin com-
plex, making sera microgran a perfect staple
diet for these fish.

sera Spirulina Tabs can also be

attached to the aquarium glass.
This all-vegetable tablet con-
tains an optimal 20% of spirulina
algae for proper nutrition. sera
Spirulina Tabs are indispensable for algae-
eating animals such as surgeonfish/ tangs or
blennies.
sera micron is best suited for
raising fish fry or shrimp lar-
vae. Invertebrates and fish that
need powdered food can also
be fed sera micron.

sera Plankton Tabs contain an

especially high amount of
freeze-dried plankton. Fish are
fed by simply dropping the
tablets into the aquarium.
Invertebrates are fed individually, for exam-
ple, with a pair of tweezers or a plastic tube.

17
 Regular maintenance: Checking the water

Parameter Ideal parameter Value too high – lower ⇓

When to check? Value too low – raise ⇑
pH 8.0 – 8.5 ⇓ • Partial water change with more aci-
Weekly dic water
• Add CO2

⇑ • sera pH-plus

KH Carbonate 8 – 12°dKH ⇓ • Partial water change

hardness
Weekly ⇑ • sera kH-plus

Ca 400 – 450 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Partial water change

Calcium
Weekly ⇑ • Add sera calcium plus

Conductivity 50 – 54 mS/cm ⇓ • Partial water change with water of a

Weekly little less conductivity

⇑ • Add sera sea salt in small portions

until the correct value is achieved

Density 1.022 – 1.024 g/cm3 at 25°C (77°F) ⇓ • Partial water change

Weekly
⇑ • Add sera sea salt in small portions
until the correct value is achieved

NH4/NH3 Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Partial water change (check pH value)
Ammonium/ • Avoid still water zones by providing
Dangerous from 0.02 mg/l (ppm)
Ammonia water currents (use a water pump)
Weekly Depending on the pH value • Add sera ammovec
• Check/clean the filter
• Reduce number of fish
• Feed sparingly

NO2 Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Add sera ammovec

Nitrite • Check the filter
0.3 – 0.9 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals
Weekly • Feed sparingly
0.1 – 0.3 mg/l [ppm] NO2-N): water
pollution • Check whether a fish or another ani-
mal is missing
From 0.9 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals
0.3 mg/l [ppm] NO2-N): danger to fish • Partial water change
• Remove cause
3.3 mg/l (ppm) NO2 (equals 1 mg/l ⇓ • Partial water change
[ppm] NO2-N): acute danger to fish • Repeat partial water change after
12 – 24 hours

18
 Regular maintenance: Checking the water

Parameter Ideal parameter Value too high – lower ⇓

When to check? Value too low – raise ⇑

NO3 Ideal: maximum 20 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Install a slow flux filter and use sera
Nitrate From 20 mg/l (ppm) siporax
Weekly • Use 1 liter (10 oz.) sera siporax per
each 100 liters (26 gal.) of water in
the biofilter, and activate with sera
ammovec
• Carry out frequent partial water
changes with water that is low in
nitrate
• Reduce number of fish if applicable
• Feed sparingly
• Use a protein skimmer
Above 100 mg/l (ppm) • Partial water change

Mg About 1300 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Partial water change

Magnesium
Weekly ⇑ • Add sera magnesium plus

PO4 Max. 0.1 mg/l (ppm) ⇓ • Partial water change

Phosphate Ideal: below 0.05 mg/l (ppm) • Add macro ornamental algae
Weekly
• Feed sparingly
• Reduce number of fish

Cu Ideal: 0.0 mg/l (ppm) (any detectable ⇓ • Add sera aqumarin

Copper amount severely harms inver-
Fresh water tebrates or can be fatal to them)
Fish feeling unwell
Above 1.0 mg/l (ppm): fatal for all
living beings in saltwater aquariums
• Generous partial water changes with
copper-free water, prepare fresh
water with a double dose sera aqu-
marin

O2 Above 6 mg/l (ppm): sufficient oxy- ⇑ • Rapid increase with sera oxypur
Oxygen gen • Aerate water
Every 2 weeks

Cl Below 0.02 mg/l (ppm) • Find out and remove cause

Chlorine ⇓ • sera aqumarin neutralizes the effects
Water change of chlorine
New setup
• Add sera chlorvec
• Add sera ammovec
• Aerate water well

19
 Regular maintenance

As well as monitoring the water parameters

and cleaning the filter, several further main-
Water change
tenance measures must be carried out on a
regular basis.

Removal of unwanted algae

If large macro ornamental algae, such as
Caulerpa, grow in your aquarium, you should
carefully control their growth. The rapidly
growing Caulerpa algae can actually over-
grow the invertebrates. Select and remove
the unwanted algae without taking too
many at one time.

Algae leaves are called “thalli.” They consist

of a single cell that releases its nitrate-con-
taining cell liquid into the aquarium if it is
not removed properly. The safest way to cut-
back your algae is to do this:
Change 5 – 10% of the water monthly, prepar-
ing the salt mixture in a bucket according to
the directions on page 12. This is also an
opportune time to use the sera gravel wash-
er to clean the aquarium gravel of debris and
detrimental micro-organisms – as we will see
in the following sections.

Waste removal
To avoid polluting the water, remove any
waste, such as dead algae parts, with the
sera gravel cleaner or a tweezers, instantly,
before it accumulates. Do not wait for sched-
uled water changes.

Look for the rhizome; this is the cord from

which the single thalli grow. On it, you will
see the fragile spots beside the thalli at
which the algae can be broken apart. Snip-
off the unwanted segment of the Caulerpa
algae, and immediately remove it from the
aquarium. Be careful not to damage the
algae as this will lead to cell liquid running
into the aquarium uncontrollably.

20

R/O water for cleaning and
addition
In areas with high levels of nitrate and/or
phosphate in the tap water we strongly rec-
ommend purchasing an ion exchange or
reverse osmosis (R/O) unit. By purifying the
water this way, approximately 95% of the
dissolved pollutants are removed.
R/O water is much more suitable than tap
water for water changes and for replacing
evaporated water.
Tap water must be conditioned by using sera
aqumarin according to the instructions.
Open aquariums that are lighted with hang-
ing metal halide lights can lose several liters
of water through evaporation, every day.
This water must be replaced regularly, daily if
possible, with R/O water to prevent an
increase in salinity.
Lighting check
Fluorescent light tubes lose about 50% of
their light-emitting power after six months
use, whereas metal halide (HQI) lights have a
maximum “lifespan” of two years. As the
human eye does not detect the gradual
reduction of light, use the exposure light-
meter of a camera as an easy method of
monitoring this problem. Note: These tests
must be carried out from the same distance
and angle each time.
Camera with
exposure meter
Fix dis-
tance
and
angle
exactly
All settings
and conditions
must be the same
for each test
Regular maintenance
While you are on
a holiday
For short-term vacations
(up to 10 days), the animals
in your reef aquarium need
not be fed. Live rock pro-
vides the aquarium with
plenty of micro-fauna to
serve as a food supply.
During longer vacations, we
recommend setting-up a
maintenance plan to give to
the person caring for your
aquarium while you’re away.
Along with feeding instruc-
tions, this should include
information on topping-up
the tank with R/O water, and
providing trace elements
(sera marinvit plus) for the
invertebrates. Advise them
on the exact number of
food tablets (sera O-nip,
sera viformo, sera Spirulina
Tabs, sera Plankton Tabs), as
well as which days to do the
feeding. Tablets are the
preferable choice to leave,
as inexperienced aquarists
usually drastically overfeed
with flake and granulated
foods, causing severe water
pollution.
21
 The interaction of

The ocean represents the most stable eco- Check the carbonate
logical system on earth. Over millions of hardness of the water
years the ocean’s inhabitants have adapted quickly and accurately
to the water’s constant physical and chemi- with the sera kH-Test.
cal changes, but as these parameters vary
only slightly in nature, the animals are much
less able to adapt than their freshwater
counterparts. Because of this – marine
aquariums must provide continuously stable
conditions.

The pH value describes whether the water is

acidic (pH below 7), neutral (pH = 7) or alka-
line (pH above 7). The pH value in natural salt- Increasing the KH level
water is slightly alkaline (pH 8 to 8.5). is easy and safe with
sera kH-plus.

The pH value of the

aquarium water should
also be checked regu-
larly with the sera pH-
Test.

In the aquarium the pH is lower in the morn-

ing than in the evening. This is because algae
consume carbon dioxide (CO2) during the
day, resulting in a rise in pH. As a result of the
consumption of carbonic acid, the pH value
rises during the day. Consider using
the sera pH me-
ter for precise
monitoring of the
pH value.
You can raise the
pH value with
sera pH-plus if
necessary.

The carbonate hardness (KH) in the water

serves as a buffer. It is able to neutralize
acids and therefore absorbs fluctuations of
the pH value to a certain degree. To provide
a buffering effect that is strong enough for a
saltwater aquarium, the carbonate hardness
must not fall below 8°dKH.

22
pH, carbon dioxide (CO2), and carbonate hardness (KH)
When aquariums are over-planted with
macro ornamental algae (Caulerpa, Halimeda
etc.) pH values can rise over 8.5 because of
the high CO2 demand.
The easiest and most natural method of low-
ering and stabilizing the pH value is by sup-
plying carbon dioxide to the water. Add
carbon dioxide according to the specific
aquarium requirements, simply and confi-
dently, with the sera CO2 fertilization system
and seramic CO2 control system.
The seramic CO2 control system is ideal for
the automatic control and regulation of the
pH value in your aquarium. Simply set the
desired pH value and let the seramic CO2
control system inject the precise amount of
carbon dioxide for stable conditions. This
highly effective CO2 control unit system also
shuts-off automatically when the correct pH
value has been reached.
Saltwater aquariums demand a considerable
amount of the CO2, which should not be
underestimated. Even if you do not continu-
ously supply the aquarium with CO2, we
strongly urge you to keep CO2 in stock. This
way, you can react immediately if the pH
value and the ammonia level become too
high (see sections “The nitrogen
cycle” and “Checking the wa-
ter”).
23
 From ammonium to nitrate:

Let’s have a closer look at the nitrogen cycle: Check the total concen-
tration of ammonium
Organic waste products in the aquarium and ammonia with the
result in nitrogen pollution of the water. sera ammonium/am-
Among those waste products are excretions monia-Test. The chart
of the fish, uneaten food, and rotting algae, included in the test kit
as well as dead animals. makes it easy to deter-
Nitrogen occurs in the aquarium in different mine the level of free
forms. Nitrogen containing waste products ammonia by comparing
in the aquarium are excess protein, ammoni- the measured value and
um and ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. the pH value. If the con-
centration of free am-
monia is above 0.2 mg/l,
a partial water change must be done
immediately, and sera ammovec should be
The useful bacteria in sera ammovec
process dead plant parts, food left- added.
overs, and fish waste from ammonia via
nitrite into non-toxic nitrate The next step in the nitrogen cycle is the bio-
logical conversion of ammonium into ammo-
nia, and then into nitrite by Nitrosomonas
bacteria. For this to happen the bacteria
need oxygen. Therefore, this is called an aer-
obic (with oxygen) process. Nitrite is highly
toxic to fish and invertebrates.

Increased ammonium, nitrite, or nitrate lev-

Well balanced planting els result from mistakes or improper aquari-
lowers nitrate levels um maintenance. Another cause could be an
insufficient surface area for useful bacteria
to colonize.

Check the nitrite level

of the aquarium water
with the sera nitrite-
Test. If the value ex-
ceeds 0.3 mg/l (ppm), a
partial water change is
Nitrate-free water
necessary.

The waste products mentioned contain pro-

teins, from which ammonium converted to
ammonia is formed via biological decompo-
sition. The ratio between relatively harmless
ammonium and toxic ammonia is deter-
mined by the pH value. The higher the pH
value, the more ammonia is formed. Since
the pH value in saltwater is always above 7,
the ammonium level must be checked fre-
quently.

24
The nitrogen cycle
Lower the ammonium and
nitrite levels with sera
ammovec. sera ammovec is a
biological product containing
nitrifying bacteria that breaks
down ammonium and nitrite.
Simply add the liquid to the
aquarium water according to
the product’s directions for
use.
The biological decomposition
of nitrite by Nitrobacter bacte-
ria leads to nitrate. Also, at this
stage the bacteria need oxygen to thrive.
Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria live in
all the oxygen-rich zones of the aquarium,
which include the upper gravel layers, the fil-
ter, and the live rock surfaces. From this we
see that oxygen-rich water is important not
only for the fish and invertebrates, but at the
bacterial level as well.
Nitrate is considerably
less toxic than ammonia
and nitrite. Neverthe-
less it harms delicate
corals when in concen-
trations of 20 mg/l
(ppm) or higher, and it
promotes the growth
of unwanted thread
and slime algae.
Check the nitrate level
in the aquarium with
the sera nitrate-Test.
Nitrate breakdown can take place only in
oxygen-poor zones. There the bacteria take
oxygen from the nitrate. This is called an
anaerobic (without oxygen) process. This
final step produces harmless nitrogen gas
that escapes into the atmosphere. The bio-
logical breakdown of nitrate is achieved by a
slow flux filter with sera siporax.
25
 The calcium level

Calcareous algae, fish, and invertebrates The calcium level in

extract calcium from the saltwater to build- saltwater can easily and
up their skeleton. Natural saltwater contains safely be determined
about 400 – 450 mg/l (ppm) calcium. by using the sera calci-
um-Test. If the level falls
Saltwater that is prepared with sera sea salt below 400 mg/l (ppm),
begins with the correct calcium concentra- the calcium concentra-
tion, but is nevertheless constantly lowered tion can be increased
by regular, necessary consumption. with sera calcium plus.

Unlike kalkwasser, sera calcium

plus affects neither the pH
value nor the trace elements.

26
 Strontium and trace elements
The magnesium level in natural
saltwater is about 1300 mg/l
(ppm). Replenish consumed
magnesium according to a-
quarium requirements with
easy-to-dose sera magnesium
plus.
Use the sera magne-
sium-Test to monitor
the exact magnesium
level.
Saltwater that is freshly prepared with sera
sea salt contains all the trace elements that
are important for your marine life. Although
the level of these trace elements are very
low (example: manganese 0.2 µg/l [ppm],
gold 0.004 µg/l [ppm]), they are essential for
fish and invertebrates. Protein skimmers,
along with natural consumption, eventually
reduce the level of trace elements.
Stony corals and other invertebrates need
strontium, besides calcium, to build-up their
calcareous skeleton. Due to its comparative-
ly high concentration in salt-
water (8 mg/l [ppm]) strontium
is not regarded as a trace ele-
ment.
Regular addition of sera marin-
vit plus ensures the ideal sup-
ply of strontium for corals and
other invertebrates. It contains
all the trace elements, in the
biologically correct amounts,
that are necessary for keeping
and breeding ornamental
marine algae and inverte-
brates.
27
 What to do if a marine animal gets sick?
Invertebrates
With a good maintenance routine, inverte-
brates are rarely affected by disease.
Nevertheless, certain aspects should be
taken into account:
• If the water temperature exceeds 30°C
(86°F), the skeleton formation of stony
corals is disturbed. Furthermore, the sym-
biotic algae that live in the tissues of the
coral (Zooxanthellae) die and as a result the
coral also dies.
• Crustaceans regularly shed their skin. The
water must contain 400 – 450 mg/l (ppm)
calcium for building up a new shell. The
carbonate hardness must be between
8 – 10°dKH.
• If an invertebrate’s growth becomes stunt-
ed, despite the best possible maintenance
conditions, the animal should be examined
for external parasites. These parasites
could be miniscule and possibly come out
only at night.
Planarians are flat white or red worms of
approximately 5 mm (0.2 in.) in size. They can
harm anemones, corals and other verte-
brates with their excreted slime. These
worms can be siphoned-out of the aquarium
by means of a flexible tube. Sometimes it is
useful to place a strong flashlight above the
28
aquarium at night. Many planarians assem-
ble in the light and they are much easier to
remove. Watch invertebrates thoroughly
before buying them! Small, brownish-red,
oval spots are usually planarians.
Bristle worms (Polychaetes) are actually
carrion eaters, and will eventually nibble on
mushroom anemones and stony corals.
Furthermore, they tear their prey away from
them and, in doing so, often injure these
sessile (immobile) animals with their sharp
jaws. It is possible to attract Bristle worms
with fish meat and then catch and remove
them. As they are mainly active at night, this
procedure should be carried out in the dark.
Be careful: Do not touch these worms. The
bristles break off and may cause skin inflam-
mations!
Small bristle worms hide in the gravel during
daytime and can be removed by siphoning
off a larger quantity of the gravel (approx.
30 – 50%) and washing it with fresh water.
Usually, this is sufficient to remove these
Polychaetes from time to time.
 What to do if a marine animal gets sick?
Many snails nibble on sea anemones, corals,
and other invertebrates. In a reef aquarium
every snail should be carefully removed with
a pair of tweezers. Some snails feed exclu-
sively on sessile invertebrates.
Predatory shrimp species, for example mar-
bled shrimps (different Saron species), can
literally cut up anemones. These animals,
which are active at night, should be
siphoned off with a flexible tube or removed
with a pair of tweezers.
Parasitic diseases caused by micro-organ-
isms such as bacteria, or unicellular para-
sites, can only occur after preliminary dam-
age has been caused by a chemical, such as
ozone, hydrogen peroxide, or phosphate,
and they are almost never observed in well
maintained aquariums.
Combating these parasites with treatments
is impossible, as treatments, of course, can-
not differentiate between “desirable” and
“undesirable” invertebrates.
Fish
The best way to combat dis-
ease is by avoiding it, and the
danger of a disease outbreak is
greatly reduced by following
regular maintenance routines,
and by adding sera fishtamin
and sera activant vitamins to
your fish’s diet. If disease does
occur, sera has a line of sup-
port products that are safe and
reliable to use.
The most frequent and dis-
turbing diseases that affect
marine fish – and the recom-
mended care for your fish
while ill, are described below.
The parasitic Oodinium ocella-
tum (Velvet, or Coral Fish dis-
ease), in saltwater, attacks the
gills before migrating to the
skin – often leaving the fish
unable to pass sufficient oxy-
gen to breath. Copper-based
products, used carefully, such
as sera oodinopur have been
effective – although copper
must never be used in aquari-
ums with invertebrates. Apply
only in a quarantine tank.
29
 What to do if a marine animal gets sick?
The ciliate Cryptocarion irritans
resembles the freshwater par-
asite Ichthyophthirius (white
spot) and is therefore also
called “Saltwater Ich”. Use sera
cyprinopur according to the
instructions for symptoms of
white spots of up to 1 millime-
ter in diameter and strong
scraping movements of the
fish. sera cyprinopur is harmful
for some invertebrates (e.g.,
stony corals, snails, shrimp)
and for safety purposes should be applied
only in a quarantine tank.
Bacteria can cause many
noticeable symptoms in your
fish – among them, are skin
slime and fin rot. Use sera bak-
topur and sera baktopur
direct, according to directions,
at the first sign of symptoms.
30
As many invertebrates do
not tolerate treatments, we
recommend caring for your
fish in a quarantine aquari-
um.
Illness can considerably
weaken a fish. Once treat-
ments are complete, sera
fishtamin or sera activant
vitamins are ideal to help
support the animal’s im-
mune system while healing.
Use of treatments in the
aquarium cannot distin-
guish between good and
bad bacteria, and attacks
them all. After every treat-
ment, use sera ammovec,
according to directions, to
help regenerate the filter
bacteria colonies.
Use sera super carbon to remove the treat-
ments residue from
the water after treat-
ments.
Cleaner wrasses and
cleaner shrimps help
prevent the problem
by “preening” the
ectoparasite from
your fish. Also some
nettling coral species
(e.g., gorgonians) have
positive effects on
fish diseases.
The best disease prevention measures are
good, constant water conditions, varied
nutrition, and an appropriate vitamin supply.
 What you always wanted to know about saltwater
What is “kalkwasser?”
A saturated solution of calcium hydroxide in
water is called kalkwasser. This concentrated
alkaline solution raises the calcium level of
the water without raising the carbonate
hardness – it can, however, elevate the pH to
uncontrollably high values. In the past, kalk-
wasser was the most practicable method of
providing calcium but this is now considered
risky. sera calcium plus does not affect the
pH value and is therefore safer to use, mak-
ing kalkwasser an unnecessary part of your
maintenance routine.
What is a protein skimmer
good for?
A skimmer helps to reduce the aquarium
water pollution. Proteins attach to the air
bubbles produced by the skimmer, forming
solid foam. This foam is pushed upwards
within the foam tube, thus removing the
skimmed substances from the aquarium
water circuit.
What does a calcium
reactor do?
Many corals, mussels, and calcareous red
algae require dissolved calcium for their
growth. Using carbonic acid (dissolved CO2),
lime material is dissolved to form soluble cal-
cium compounds within the calcium reactor.
As this process takes place below pH values
of 6.5 – 7 only, a portion of the added car-
bonic acid is required to lower the pH value
within the reactor. The remaining portion is
then used to dissolve lime. The pH control
required for this is achieved by the seramic
CO2 control system.
What is “live rock?”
Live rocks are reef rock pieces that are
imported together with herbal and animal
periphyton organisms. It must be transport-
ed moist and tempered. In pet stores they
are kept like corals in aquariums. They will
bring many useful small organisms into your
aquarium and therefore promote natural
conditions. Speak with your specialty retailer
for more information on adding live rock to
your aquarium.
31