10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

NICHOLAS HACKO - FINE WATCHES

Master Watchmaker, Clockmaker and Jeweller (since 1981)

nick@clockmaker.com.au
Suite 403, Level 4, Culwulla Chambers
67 Castlereagh St. Sydney 2000 NSW Australia
Phone: (02) 9232 0500 Fax: 02 9233 2273

Do It Yourself Project: Seiko 7S26 for Novice Horologists

Chapter 8: Disassembly of the Automatic Winding System -

"The Pump"
In the previous two chapters we have undertaken disassembly of our movement without much
explanation as to what particular components do and how they are related to each other. We will
get back to that during assembly.

However the auto-winding system (AW) should be studied more thoroughly before being pulled
apart.

The AW unit contains the following components:

- oscillating weight (also known as the 'rotor')
- reduction wheels
- pawl lever (or more precisely pawl levers)

NOTE: the first reduction wheel and pawl lever are secured in place underneath the barrel and
train bridge so we will remove them off the bridge later on. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE this bridge as
yet - for the sake of tutorial, I have taken images of the pawl and first reduction wheel removed
from another Seiko movement!

The AW unit components are shown on page 3 of the technical manual, position 16, 17 and 18
and page 4, positions 27-3, 27-4 and 27-5.

In chapter 5 we learned what the purpose of the AW is. Now we will concentrate on how it works
in the Seiko Cal. 7S26.

Here is the basic concept: The spring can be wound in only one direction because it is locked (or
held under tension) with a simple ratchet locking system. Therefore, in order to wind the main
spring, the auto unit must provide unidirectional cirular winding motion to the ratchet wheel.

That motion comes from freely-rotating oscillating weight. And since the rotor "spins" in both
directions, we need a translator to turn the bidirectional circular motion into unidirectional
rotation. Seiko employs the pawl lever system and they call it the "Magic Lever."

The Magic Lever is a very well designed. A simple and clever translator and it is finely executed.
It is very efficient, it requires a rotor with lower mass and operates flawlessly for many years
with very low maintenece. Actually, Seiko 5's auto-winding system is by far superior to many
similar systems by Swiss watchmakers!

For that reason alone, every student of horology should take time to understand how it works.

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 1/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney
But we get into that in just a minute. Because the magic lever is located underneath the rotor,
we will remove the rotor to have a clear view to study its action.

The first step is to note the positional alignment between the oscillating weight and first
reduction wheel. In Seiko 7S26, the rotor must be installed correctly in order to perform as
designed. The alignment mark is a gold circle on the balance cock, marked A. The tip of the rotor
(positioned as per photo, stem side) is marked B. And the circular cut-out on the first reduction
wheel must be on the top, C. All 3 componets are aligned as per photo. This is explained in the
technical guide, page 6 paragraph 18 but dare I say my image makes more sense :-).

To remove the rotor, unscrew large screw in the center.

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 2/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

Here is another shot of the rotor with the ball bearing.

I have removed a bearing from Seiko calibre 7009 to show you how it looks like but this is not
part of the DIY. The bearing is only supplied with oscillating weight as assembly anyway. (BTW,
can you note the difference between the two ball bearings?)

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 3/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

We can now have a closer look at how the magic lever works. First, it consists of 3 components:
- first reduction wheels
- pawl lever(s)
- second reduction wheel

Because the rotor motion is directly transferred to the first reduction wheel, it too rotates in both
directions. Pawls are attached underneath the wheel, off-centre so that the levers move in a
linear direction pushing and pulling the second reduction wheel.

The specifics of this design is in detail: depending on the position of the first wheel, when one
lever is pushing (or pulling), the opposite lever is locking. In other words, each lever is either
pulling or pushing, but both levers can act as a ratchet. Clever! Such an arrangement provides
two direct benefits: both clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation of the rotor will wind the main
spring and the second wheel only rotates in one direction - exactly as required to wind the main
spring.

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 4/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

Another photo of the off-centre arrangement.

First thing to note is that the winding system is symmetrical with two different cycles and since
the rotor is bi-directional, there are 4 distinctive stages of winding, as shown below.

0-180 degrees CW: left lever is pushing, right lever is locking

180-360 degrees CW: right lever is pulling, left lever is locking

0-180 degrees CCW: left lever is pushing, right lever is locking

180-360 degrees CCW: right lever is pulling, left lever is locking

...and regarless of the motion of the first wheel, the second wheel always rotates in one
direction!

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 5/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

TO DO: while turning the first reduction wheel, observe

- how the pawl lever transfers motion to the second reduction wheel,
- count the number of 'clicks' as the first wheel travels 180 degrees (from A to B) in both CCW
and CW direction. For pawls showing no wear or tear, each half turn will advance the second
wheel for 5 teeth for unwound springs, and 4 teeth for fully wound spring.
- watch the advancement of the big ratchet wheel (which is connected to the main spring) it
takes 2 and half rotations of the first wheel to advance the ratchet wheel for 1 tooth.
- observe the action of the click spring

Watch repairer's tip: As the first wheel travels 180 degrees (form A to C) the second wheel
advances for 5 teeth. Therefore after 5 half rotations of the rotor (2 and a half full rotation), the
second wheel will advance 25 teeth (A-C) and the ratchet wheel will 'click' once.

This calculation applies to winding of a spring which is not fully wound. When the spring is fully
wound (maximum power reserve) the spring will "resist" the wind and it will take approx. 6 full
rotations for one ratchet click.

Those two parameters are important when assessing the action of the pawl levers. If the pawl is
slipping (levers slipping when pushing or pulling) there will be inefficient winding action and both
pawl and second reduction wheel would need replacement. This is often the case with
movements which run for many years without an overhaul.

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 6/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

Finally we are now ready for disassembly. Unscrew the second reduction wheel screw. NOTE:
Three slots on the screw head means that this screw needs to be turned clockwise to unscrew
(left-handed thread) Remove second reduction wheel. This completes the disassembly of 3
components in auto winding unit. ATTENTION: Do not unscrew ratchet wheel screw [0012 9191].

nick@clockmaker.com.au to confirm that you have successfully completed disassembly and

study of the auto winding unit. Remember: subject line must start with DIY.

Previous Chapter | Home | Next Chapter

Mailing list: SEIKO 7S26 DIY Mailing list home page

To join please click above link or send a blank e-mail to 7S26-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

The mailing list will serve to allow better communication between 'students' and allow the
rest to follow the progress of our project. The group is not moderated so please focus
posts on topics related to the DIY project: assembly tips, general observations, help
requests, tools and parts exchange, project photos and DIY comments.

There is only ONE RULE: please sign all posts with your full name and location :-)

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 7/8
10/30/2017 Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker DIY Seiko 7S26 Sydney

http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter8.html 8/8