TREASURE MAP

Bogota’s rich legacy has crossed the centuries and established the basis of a young
contemporary face for Colombian gastronomy, culture and art.

By: Rafael Bahia

Photos: Rafael Paixão

The legend tells that the road to the inexhaustible gold deposits of El Dorado
went through Bogotá. And even though nobody has found the mythical golden
city, Bogotá shines on its own. When you look at it from the Cerro de
Monserrate, on the city limits, it glimmers like a mine filled with gold grains. Its
altitude of 10,341 ft. above the sea level, brings her closer to the starry sky
illuminating Plaza Bolívar, the National Congress and the Palace of Justice.
The Museo del Oro is a symbol of memory. “These 30 thousand pre-
Columbian artifacts bring us closer to encounter our roots”, explains Eduardo
Londoño, the institution’s anthropologist. “Here we guard the treasure. But
beyond its monetary value, is its historic relevance that expresses Colombian
identity”, he states.
All this gold from the past reflects itself in a present that looks at culture as its
new treasure. In the past there was an abundance of precious minerals, but now
Bogotá stands out for its intense art scene and world class gastronomy. The old
values have been redefined with eyes set on the future.

[phrase]
“These 30 thousand pre-Columbian artifacts bring us closer to encounter our roots.”
Eduardo Londoño, anthropologist.

Next chapter
Like many Colombian cities, the capital turned the page on its past guided by the
lighthouse of art. Its appreciation of literature, for example, made Bogotá the first
Latin American city recognized as Unesco’s 2007 World Book Capital City.
One proof that Bogotá deserves this title is the abundance of libraries and
bookstores all around town, specially in the historic district of La Candelaria.
One of them, the Luis Ángel Arango Library counts with a concert hall and a rich
collection of old publications available to all public.
You only have to cross the street to arrive at Manzana Cultural, a sector
comprising three institutions: the Botero Museum, showing the curvilinear
figures of the most famous Colombian artist alongside works by masters such as
Miró and Renoir; the Casa de la Moneda, telling the history of money in the
country; and the Miguel Urrutia Art Museum, with a collection of local and
international art.
Right in front you’ll find the Centro Cultural García Márquez, inviting to
witness the sunset behind the Catedral Primada from its terrace. The space was
projected by architect Rogelio Salmon, author of several imposing buildings in
the city; including the Virgilio Barco Public Library. Walking around this brick
circular structure —a Bogotan trademark—invites to go further, into the Parque
Metropolitano Simón Bolívar. Every year, this enormous green area hosts the
Rock al Parque festival, one of the biggest, free, open air concerts in Latin
America. At least in this aspect stereotypes are true: Colombians know how to
throw a party.

New palette
Bogotá’s beauty seems to spring from the ground. Each wall that rises is either a
canvas or an historical site, as you’ll learn walking the Bogotá Graffitti Tour.
Groups of tourists walk the neighborhood of La Candelaria camera in hand to
learn about artists and their creations.
“By the end of the tour some people say they learned more about history than
going to the museums,” says the guide, Jahir Dimate. Along the tour, glancing
into these big old houses, you’ll be able to see the characteristic rectangular
patios of colonial constructions. A contrast of the ages, since normally they house
hostels and bars. L’Aldea, a mixture of bar and urban art gallery, is a good spot
to end this tour.
New winds are blowing for local culture on the global landscape. The biggest
art fair in the country, ARTBO, placed Colombia on the international Market
under the baton of its director, María Paz Gaviria. “ARTBO was central for the
growth of the public and the art market,” she states. The event is carried out
every October, but it also counts with exhibitions and residencies all year round.
“There has been a proliferation of galleries, independent spaces, foundations and
institutions.”
It’s the case of neighborhoods like San Felipe, located a bit up north. Even
though it’s not touristic, in the last years it has seen the birth of more than 10
galleries between 72A and 75A streets. Not far, in a discrete construction, a space
called La Casita attracts contemporary artists painting Colombia with new colors.

[phrase]
“By the end of the tour some people say they learned more about history than going to the
museums”
Jahir Dimate, tourist guide.
“ARTBO was central for the growth of the public and the art market”
María Paz Gaviria, art historian.

Eating well it’s an art

Nice temperature in the capital it’s an excellent pretext to try another local jewel:
coffee. It’s easy to find a good cup in the Azahar, where the variety of beans
changes periodically. For a complete experience, Catación Púbica offers tastings
under the supervision of a barista. The toasting is done right there, in a species of
laboratory where beans from all over the country are selected and prepared.
Now that we are hungry, there’s no other place like Bogotá to taste
Colombian food. From the Pacific Coast to the Atlantic, from the Andes to the
Amazon; here you can find anything. If you want someting simple, you can go to
Misia, owned by awarded chef Leonor Espinosa. Her menu includes arepas and
refajos (drinks made with soda and beer), green plantain salads and juice from
an acidic fruit called lulo. Typical delicacies that, when done right, transform
themselves into a tribute.
The same chef is in charge of the elegant restaurant Leo. In the back of the
menu there’s a map depicting the origin of each ingredient from the 16 courses
and 15 drinks tasting menu. The variety of dishes ranges from fermented coca
leaves to national rum, including capybara meat and mandarin lemon leaves:
everything served here is deeply rooted in the country.
One of the pioneers of this renewed national gastronomy is Mini-Mal, a
restaurant in the modern Chapinero neighborhood. Let yourself be amazed by
beef ribs in black yucca sauce with a side-dish of ants. Some vegetables and
leaves in the menu even come from the vegetable garden right in front of the
house.
The same happens sitting at the bar of Huerta Bar, surrounded by vertical
gardens that lend themselves for the alchemy of the angosturas.
Every other ingredient arrives fresh from markets like Paloquemao and goes
through an exhaustive smoking and mixology processes.
Bogotá in insatiable. Just like the legend of El Dorado, it’s a tale of ambition.
The natives, that believed in many other worlds, said that gold was “just a little
further away,” and so conquistadors launched infinite quests. That’s Bogotá for
adventurers: in its historic and contemporary richness, it’s never enough.

LESS IS MORE
The diverse kitchen of Eduardo Martínez rescues Colombia’s national flavors.

Something changed when Eduardo Martínez travelled to the Colombian Pacific

coast to investigate its diversity. This agronomist was enchanted by the
ingredients and techniques he found and, four years later, he returned to the
capital transformed into a cook.
His passion drove him to open Mini-Mal with his wife Antonuela Ariza,
and their restaurant was a pioneer when the time came to a give a new meaning
to the expression Colombian cuisine. In 2001 Martínez opened a restaurant on a
house previously owned by his grandparents in the sophisticated Chapinero
neighborhood.
Almost every ingredient used in Mini-Mal comes from projects helping
small growers. Even the name Mini-Mal comes from the idea of making the most
out of resources to cause minimum impact. “Our principle ended up creating
brand value,” he says. “The public comes to discover their own identity.”
Perhaps the most illustrative recipe of this gastronomical offer are the
palmira rolls. The inspiration comes from sushi (typically prepared with rice,
seaweed and varied fishes and vegetables), symbolizing the sophistication of an
imported dish. Filled with humor, Martínez presents a dish with similar
aesthetics, but prepared with familiar ingredients: banana, costeño cheese and
avocado. This sweet irony comes with a side-dish of Colombian pride.