Himalayas Magazine - June 2019

Nepal · Bhutan · Tibet · Myanmar · Pakistan · India
Travel Himalaya Magazine is published

in the UK Quarterly by Himalaya
International Publications Limited.
Registered in England ISSN 2045-7502
1EMR3ƾGI9/
Central Chambers, Ealing Broadway
FROM London W5 5NR +44 0208 5795464
THE )HMXSVMEP'SRXEGXW
23 Bosham Road, Portsmouth PO2 7LG
EDITOR 6IKMSREPSƾGI
Baluwatar, Kathmandu
Tel: 4433531
S
+IRIVEPIRUYMV]
pring is the exciting time in the travel to this paradise? Steve Evans info@himalayamagazine.com
Himalaya as the rhododendron shares his story of adventures into this (MVIGXSVW
bursts into bloom, heralding amazing region. Raja Ram Giri,
warmer weather and spring planting. And there are many more articles, Daksha Paudel Subhas,
Our Spring edition of Travel Himalaya Bimal Kumar Niraula,
from a nostalgic look at Kathmandu Bikash Giri
is also bursting forth with new blooms to the mysterious land of Tibet. And
of great stories. within these pages are many more
1EREKMRK)HMXSV4YFPMWLIV
Raja Ram Giri
Some of them are of unique human amazing stories of the magical land editor@himalayamagazine.com
interest like June Scott of USA who called Himalaya %WWSGMEXI)HMXSV Darren Windsor
at the age of 93 became the oldest Again, we also thank you for
*IEXYVIW Jan L. Beaderstadt
person ever to ride the world’s longest your patience as we renew our regular feartuers@himalayamagazine.com
zipline in Pokhara, Nepal. But for an publishing schedule. Those of us in
unforgettable experience into the wild 1EVOIXMRK9/ Surya Khadka
Kathmandu are finally seeing the +44 7411799091
Himalaya, writer Maximillian MØrch economy returning to normal after the
takes you into the forgotten Rolwaling 2015 earthquake. It has been a rough road 1EVOIXMRK2ITEP Rajan Yadav
Valley in the Everest region with its for so many, but we are now seeing a bright +977 9803021145
marketing@himalayamagazine.com
spectacular views. Rolwaling Valley sun shining over the beautiful mountain
is the wild part of Everest region (IWMKRF] Venturetwo
peaks that springs forth new hope. www.venturetwo.net
that rarely ever sees a foreign visitor,
harking back to a more pristine era 7IRMSV4LSXSKVETLIV Malcolm Harris
+44 07941368330
of Nepal.
%GGSYRXW: Amir Shahi
The Kashmir region of the
Himalaya (India, Pakistan and Tibet/ (MWXVMFYXMSR
China) has been branded “Paradise on UK: WH Smith Distribution
Earth” with its beautiful blue lakes
Raja Giri USA: Barnes & Noble Bookstore,
Nepal: RB Distributor & Media Concern
and snowcapped peaks. Is it safe to Managing Editor/Publisher
Available Online: in.zinio.com, www.
isubscribe.co.uk/ Find us on Facebook
CONTRIBUTORS
Ian Wall Valerie Parkinson Jan L.
Ian, from the UK, who has High altitude trekker and Beaderstadt
been living in Nepal for the one of Exodus’ most
renowned leaders, Valerie Lives between Nepal and
last 10 years running his
is known rightly as an Uganda, mainly teaching
own trekking company ‘Off
“Exodus Legend.” She English
the Wall Trekking’ along
with his Nepali wife. He has spent more than 50% He has been associated
is an ardent trekker and of her life amongst the most with the magazine for last
has traveled in Africa, Tibet, Ladakh, Sikkim, PDJQLÛFHQWPRXQWDLQVRQ(DUWKDQGKDVPRUH ÛYH\HDUV-DQKDVEHHQWUDYHOOLQJPDQ\SDUWV
Nepal, India and Kashmir, throughout Europe and than 30 years experience leading in the Himalaya. of Nepal, some of which never explored in the
Scandinavia. Ian is one of the regular contributor This issue she takes us to Mt Nanda Devi and past by fellow traveller’s
for Himalaya Travel Magazine. the Milam Glacier in the northern India.
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CONTENTS SPRING 2019 www.travelhimalayamagazine.com
10/ KASHMIR 34/ Manaslu Circuit &

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Walk on the Bara
Shigri Glacier in the
shadow of Robert
Pettigrew
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a royal Nepali dinner
YA
KASHMIR BY STEVE EVANS
“WELCOME TO PARADISE ON EARTH.”

SO SAY THE MYRIAD OF TOURIST AGENCIES EXTOLLING THE
VIRTUES OF KASHMIR.
KASHMIR
K
ashmir – a jewel in the crowns a diverse range of beliefs and practices dedicated
of Pakistan, India and China to divine love and the cultivation of the heart,
– is nestled in the Himalaya abounds in Kashmir.
mountain range. Its mere name 7DNH LWV QDWXUDO EHDXW\ DQG VLJQLÀFDQW
elicits exotic images of opulent spiritual heritage, add its diverse cultures, and
luxury and pristine natural beauty. Once throw in handmade silk carpets, hand-carved
independent and recognized as a Princely State, walnut pieces, and exquisite papier-mâché,
this hotly contested territory now straddles these and Kashmir makes for an irresistible tourist
three countries. Pakistan controls the northwest attraction.
portion, India the central and southern portions, Srinagar, capital city of the Indian state of
and China the northeastern portion. Jammu and Kashmir, is truly one of Kashmir’s
Generally referred to as Kashmir, the area sparkling gems. It has a long history, dating back
of Kashmir and Jammu was, from 1846 until at least to the 3rd century B.C., and became the
1947, a Princely State of the British Empire in capital of Kashmir around A.D. 960. Srinagar is
India, and was ruled by a Maharaja. At the time one of the largest cities in India not to have a Hindu
of the partition of India, the Maharaja preferred majority, with its primary religion being Islam.
to remain independent and did not want to join Considered the summer capital of the state,
either India or Pakistan. He wanted Kashmir to Srinagar is sometimes called the “Venice of the
be recognized as an independent neutral country East.” It is famous for its gardens, lakes and
like Switzerland. That didn’t last long, however. houseboats, along with its traditional Kashmiri
handicrafts and dry fruits. At the heart of the
Today, the term Kashmir denotes the
city is Dal Lake, with its bustling shikara water
larger area straddling the three countries that
taxis and palatial houseboats.
claim her. However, the most accessible to the
holidaymaker is the Indian-administered state of 7KHFLW\IHDWXUHVPDJQLÀFHQWPRVTXHVD
Jammu and Kashmir, consisting of the Kashmir ÁRDWLQJPDUNHWRQ'DO/DNHDQGPDJQLÀFHQW
Mughal gardens. The gardens are one of many
Valley, Jammu, and Ladakh.
established by the Mughal emperors across the
Perhaps the most obvious of Kashmir’s
Indian subcontinent. Srinagar and its vicinity
attractions is its pristine alpine environment,
include several of these gardens. In the spring,
yet its unique and ancient architecture, along WKHFLW\LVÁXVKZLWKEORRPLQJIUXLWWUHHVZKLOH
with the distinct cultures of three major religions – WKHÁRDWLQJJDUGHQVRI'DO/DNHDERXQGZLWK
Islam, Hinduism, and Buddhism – are also a draw. water lilies and lotus blossoms.
Over the centuries, saints, seers and religious Tourists in Srinagar are attracted by the
adherents traveled to Kashmir and left the area charm of staying on a houseboat, which provides
spiritually richer. Kashmir is dotted with both the unique experience of living on the water in
natural and man-made pilgrimage sites of all a cedar-paneled elegant bedroom, with all the
faiths, symbolizing the spiritual character to the conveniences of a luxury hotel. Every standard
UHJLRQLQDGGLWLRQWRLWVQDWXUDOEHDXW\6XÀVP houseboat provides a balcony in the front, a
a mystic tradition within Islam that encompasses lounge, dining room, pantry and three or more
“Venice of the East.” It is famous for its gardens, lakes

and houseboats, along with its traditional Kashmiri
handicrafts and dry fruits.
12 | TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 www.travelhimalayamagazine.com

KASHMIR
www.travelhimalayamagazine.com TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 | 13

KASHMIR
bedrooms with attached bathrooms. It also In addition, three ski lifts also service the
comes with a housekeeper and cook, providing resort, which are suitable for beginners and
personalized service. Like hotels, houseboats intermediate-level skiing. The skiing season
in Gulmarg usually commences around mid-
vary in degrees of luxury.
December and continues until the middle of April.
Houseboats were introduced to Srinagar in
Other Kashmir sporting activities include
the late 1800s when vacationing members of the
cycling, mountain biking, white water rafting
Indian Civil Service were not allowed to build and snowboarding.
permanent homes by the Maharaja who was Additional areas of interest are the city of
suspicious of a British presence there. The civil Jammu, called Kashmir’s winter capital, and
servants decided to build and live in houseboats Ladakh, often called “Little Tibet.”
LQVWHDG7KHÀUVWKRXVHERDWQDPHG9LFWRU\ZDV Jammu is the second largest city in the state
designed and built in 1888. and is known as the “City of Temples,” because
While Srinagar may be considered Kashmir’s of its numerous historical temples and mosques.
Many are found in Jammu’s “Old Heritage City”
summer capital, Kashmir is certainly a winter
section. Legend says Jammu was founded in
wonderland for winter sports enthusiasts.
14th century B.C., and the city is mentioned in
Gulmarg, the skiing center of the Himalayas, the Hindu sacred writing of the Mahabharata.
is a mere 60 kilometers from Srinagar. Because Jammu is the overland gateway to both the
of its gondola cable car, Gulmarg is one of the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh.
highest lift-served ski resorts in the world. The drive from Srinagar to Ladakh’s ancient
7KHUHRQHPD\H[SHULHQFHDQH[KLODUDWLQJÀYH capital of Leh is one of the most scenic and
kilometer long run starting at 4,000 meters! breathtaking high altitude drives in the world.

KASHMIR

KASHMIR
86%:)08-47
Location:2SVXLIVRWMHISJ-RHME
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Kashmir is known for its unique handcrafts, Population:QMPPMSR
Language: 9VHY
prized for exquisite craftsmanship. Kashmir Time zone: +18
Money:-RHMER6YTII-26
carpets, in both wool and silk, are a lifetime Visas:&VMXMWLZMWMXSVWRIIHEXSYVMWXZMWE
investment. When to go:1EVGLXSIEVP]1E]
WHAT TO PACK
As one of the world’s highest and coldest generation to generation by the 7YQQIVWEVITPIEWERX[MXL
deserts averaging 6,000 meters, Ladakh buyer. Papier-mâché products LMKLSJEVSYRHƁq'
[MXLPS[WSJEVSYRHq
also boasts the world’s highest motorable range from jewelry boxes to ;MRXIVTEGOE[EVQNEGOIX
road at 5,359 meters. The road is great mirror frames and everything in W[MXLLMKLWMR.ERYEV]SJ
EVSYRHq[MXLPS[WSJq
for mountain biking (downhill, of course), between and there is an array of 6EMRGERSGGYVER]XMQISJ
but a bike’s brakes must be in good intricately carved walnut wood ]IEVWSTEGOVEMRKIEVNYWXMR
GEWI
condition! furniture and accessories. Then
On the drive between Srinagar there are Kashmir’s famous and GETTING THERE
and Leh, the scenery is stunning. The beautiful woolen shawls and crewel 7VMREKEVƅW7LIMOLYP%PEQ
%MVTSVXMWWIVZIHF]VIKYPEV
mountains along the two-day drive seem embroidery. Shoppers will not be ƽMKLXWJVSQ(IPLM[MXLSXLIV
to morph from one amazing design and disappointed by what Kashmir has ƽMKLXWHYVMRKXLI[IIO
JVSQ.EQQY1YQFEM
dimension to another. Adding to the to offer. %LQIHEFEH'LERHMKEVL
drama is the deep gorge cut by the Indus 5LFKDQGIXOOZLWKWKHÁDYRU %QVMXWEV/SPOEXVE&ERKPESVI
ERH0YGORS[=SYQYWX
River. Ladakh was once a Buddhist of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves GPIEVMQQMKVEXMSREXER
kingdom, with Leh as its capital. The city and saffron, Kashmiri food can MRXIVREXMSREPEMVTSVXMR
-RHMEFIJSVI]SYGERƽ]
VWLOOKDVWKHXQLTXHÁDYRURID%XGGKLVW be a plain and simple meal or a HSQIWXMGEPP]XS7VMREKEV
kingdom, with its ancient palace being 36-course banquet called Wazwan.
the predominant feature. The staple diet of every Kashmiri GETTING AROUND
8LI.EQQYERH/EWLQMV
Kashmir is known for its unique is rice; the most preferred being 7XEXI6SEH8VERWTSVX
handcrafts, prized for exquisite the dense, slightly sticky grained 'SVTSVEXMSRSTIVEXIHER
craftsmanship. Kashmir carpets, MRI\TIRWMZIFYWWIVZMGIXSXLI
Kashmir variety, which is prized in 8SYVMWQ6IGITXMSR'IRXIVMR
in both wool and silk, are a lifetime the Valley. Sweets do not play an 7VMREKEV8E\MWEVIEZEMPEFPI
investment. They range from simple I\TIGXXSTE]EVSYRH
important role in Kashmiri cuisine.
-RHMERVYTIIWJSVTVITEMH
designs to the most intricate patterns. Instead Kahwa, or a specially XE\M=SY[SRƅXƼRH9FIVERH
Painstakingly handmade in individual prepared green tea, is usually 3PESTIVEXMRKMR/EWLQMV
homes, these carpets are handed down served after a meal.

BY MAXIMILLIAN MØRCH

A SHORT WALK IN THE ROLWALING VALLEY
H
idden away in the east-central Rolwaling has received scant attention compared
region of Nepal not far from Mt. to other valleys in Nepal, it is this combination of
Everest lies the pristine Rowaling a connection to mountaineering history without
Valley. It is a place forgotten by the hordes of the Khumbu, that make the valley
time and humanity. Those who discover the such an attractive choice to explore.
Rolwaling Valley discover the pristine side of The valley, home to Sherpa villages nestled
Nepal that existed generations ago before this amongst the vegetation has approximately 300
land was discovered by tourists. plant species that call the valley home. The
The first expedition in the Rolwaling valley differs from most in Nepal with its east
valley dates back to 1951 and added a sense to west orientation; this provides a much easier
of mountaineering history to the region, climate for animals to wander. As a result the
IRUQRWRQO\ZDVLWWKH9DOOH\VÀUVW:HVWHUQ valley is home to a large variety of animals
expedition, undertaken by Eric Shipton on a including bears, jackals and most notably the
reconnaissance trip of Everest. This was where snow leopard, and according to some the Yeti.
the photographs of yetis footprints were taken; A study of the valleys spiritual and religious
this would go on to start one of the biggest debates KLVWRU\ ÀQGV WKDW WKH 5ROZDOLQJ YDOOH\ FDQ
in mountaineering. After extensive exploration boast long religious ties and numerous sacred
of the Solukhumbu the team decided to return to mountains. According to Buddhist mythology,
Kathmandu via Gaurishankahr and the as yet Gauri Shanker the 7,134m behemoth that
unexplored Rolwaling valley. It was here on dominates the valley is said to be the embodiment
their return to Kathmandu that following the of Tashi Tseringma the leader of the Tsher Ring
discovery and naming of Melungtse, the highest Mched Inga, also known as the Five sisters of
peak in the Rolwaling valley, the team discovered long life. For Hindus this place symbolizes Lord
DQLPDOWUDFNVWKDWFRXOGQRWEHLGHQWLÀHG7KHVH Shiva and his consort Parvati. It is clear then,
became the iconic yeti footstep photographs that for any trekker, mountaineer, pilgrim or
and kick started the debate about the Yetis nature enthusiasm that the Rolwaling valley
existence. The village of Bedding is also where has a lot to offer. With the aim of exploring the
numerous Everest summiteers are from, with valley and making our way to Tso Rolpa, the
over 29 Sherpa’s from Beding having reached largest Glacial Lake in Nepal, me and my friend
the summit of Everest. Since the 50s however, Herman met in Charikot to start our trip

We started out in Charikot and had initially

planned to get a bus to Singati and then walk
Looking down to the riverbank I see construction
to Chetchet. It was while waiting around near workers stop & look directly above our jeep, and then
the bus stop at Satdobato that we met Thunda promptly ran away. The next second the deafening
Sherpa, who lives in Simigaon and we shared
noises rock the Jeep as a hail of stones hit the roof
a jeep with him to the trail head at Chetchet.
In previous years the walk from Singati to
of the car. As the rocks pour down on the vehicle the
Chetchet had been described to me as one driver struggles to get the jeep started again
of the most beautiful trails in all of Nepal,
VXUURXQGHGE\ÁRUDDQGIDXQDQHVWOHGRQWKH
banks of the Tamakoshi River. Today the new unscathed. Afterwards, looking back, it becomes According to Buddhist
mythology, Gauri shanker
road which carries industrial equipment and obvious that roads really are cut and blasted into the 7,134m behemoth
infrastructure to serve the hydropower at Lama the hillsides, with very little purpose or support. that dominates the
It doesn’t take too many of these incidents for valley is said to be the
%DJDUGRPLQDWHVWKHH\HPRUHWKDQDQ\ÁRZHU
embodiment of Tashi
With the heat of the hills and the dust from driving to feel rather precarious. Tseringma the leader of
the road, taking the jeep was no real hardship. After getting to Chetchet and the trailhead, the Tsher Ring Mched
Inga, also known as the
That was until we got a reckoning of just how we start the trail to Simigaon. After crossing a Five sisters of long life
precarious the road actually was. small suspension bridge over the Tamakoshi, the
A large part of the road is being reconstructed trail begins sharply with steps cut into the rock
where previous landslides have hit and destroyed which take us steeply up for almost 800 metres.
the road. At one point while driving down to We climb up the trail for around an hour until
Chetchet, we can hear some sort of commotion we reach Simigaon, a small town sprawled out
going on outside. Looking down to the riverbank amongst the terraces. Here while speaking to
I see construction workers stop & look directly 7KXQGDZHJHWRXUÀUVWORRNDWWKHYLOODJH7KH
above our jeep, and then promptly ran away. The remnants of the 2015 earthquake are clearly
next second a deafening noises rocks the Jeep as visible here, with the majority of people living
a hail of stones hit the roof of the car. As the rocks in houses made predominately of tin sheeting.
pour down on the vehicle the driver struggles to Thunda shows us his old house, guesthouse and
get the jeep started again, it is hardly an image the former village school, now a motley collection
of serenity. After eventually getting the jeeps of rubble and foundations in varying states of
engine restarted we make it through scared but decay and disrepair.

The deeper you walk and ascend into the valley; the
hills start to give way to mountains. Trees give away
to sparse vistas, too steep for major vegetation or
trees to grow.
It is while walking around Simigaon; we get

one of the biggest shocks of the trip. All of a
sudden an almighty deep blast echoes around the
valley, we immediately look up on the look for the
landslide that caused the noise. Thunda laughs;
it is just the blasting they are doing in Lamo
Bagar hydropower. Ever since the earthquake
such noises take on increased importance.
Feeling equally relieved and foolish we move on.
We come across the old campsite in Simigaon,
which closed its doors after being destroyed in
the earthquake and its remains now lie scattered
DFURVVDÀHOG$VDUHVXOWZHHQGXSSLWFKLQJ
our tent outside Thundas house while the rain
comes in, quickly followed by snow on the higher
hills. After eating and having numerous cups
of tea in his house, we return to our tent for an
early night with the aim to reach Bedding, snow
dependent, the next day.
Waking at 7 am we saw the snow had all
but melted apart from right on the hilltops
ZKHUHLWUHPDLQHGGHÀDQW%\WKHWLPHZHKDG
drank our tea and collapsed our tent, the early
morning clouds had cleared and we were left
with a beautifully crisp, clear morning with the
sun glistening off the snow covered hills. Before
leaving and with promises of chang upon our
return, Thunda gave us the name of a family
member in Bedding he recommended we stay
with, if necessary.
QUICK FACTS From Simigaon to Surmuche, we left the

terraces and climbed steeply along an exposed
ROLWALING HIMAL ridgeline before following the trail into the
INCLUDES woods. The forest was a thick green, with dark
green moss covering the rocks, which contrasted
MELUNGTSE
sharply with the deep blue river. Steep stone
7181M AND
steps carved into the mountainside made the
MELUNGTSE II majority of the initial trail which penetrates
7023M through the forest. Climbing the trail on the
INSIDE TIBET AND right side of the Rolwaling valley, we see a small only straight or behind. The deeper you walk and
GAURISHANKAR village directly opposite us; or rather we hear it ascend into the valley; the more the hills start
before we can see it. Loud music, shouting and to give way to mountains. Trees give away to
7134M
singing, and other stranger, possibly alcohol sparse vistas, too steep for major vegetation or
ON THE NEPAL
induced, sounds can be heard, and it’s not even trees to grow. As the wind picks up barrelling
BORDER WITH SOME eight in the morning yet. off all sides of the valley and the temperature
50 ADDITIONAL The trail walks up high on the right side of begins to drop we know we are leaving the hills
PEAKS OVER the valley, with trees swallowing up the views behind. The valley, hemmed in on either side
6000M, of the river at the bottom, allowing you to look by mountains boasts some absolutely stunning

waterfalls that would later only be surpassed of the valley on the riverbank. After crossing
by the frozen waterfalls higher up. We continue several precarious bridges, with very dubious
DORQJWKHSDWKQRZÁDQNHGE\UKRGRGHQGURQV engineering and walking makeshift paths across
and juniper bushes. landslides hundreds of metres high, it was good
After lunch at Surmuche, we got to kalche to be on relatively safe ground. We had aimed
before ending up down in Dogang, a beautiful to push onto Bedding, but after speaking to
settlement consisting merely of a few houses, several locals returning from Bedding who said
animal shelters and 2 small guest house, of Bedding had snow up to their knees, we decided
which only one was open, right at the bottom to stay in Dogang and hope the early morning

Bedding, being a Sherpa sun would melt the snow before our arrival. by their dominating and almost intimidating
town, is littered with huge
Not being adequately prepared for several days height, we kept walking further from the
mane stones, large boulders
with Buddhist inscriptions walking through snow, we were grateful of the foothills and into the himal proper. During the
carved into the rock face excuse to lie-in and wait for the sun. Unlike sun, this was a beautiful experience, the vibrant
that dominate your arrival.
in Kathmandu, where buses, dogs and horns blue of the river and the sky contrasting with
continue through the night, the only sound we the incredible white of the mountain tops. It
could hear was the rush of the Rolwaling River, started to snow, and the realization soon came
slowly making its way to eventually lead into that being so far up into the hills this trip was
the Bhotekoshi, only several feet from where entirely dependent upon the weather. With the
we slept. clouds picking up, the peaks of Chekigo and
/HDYLQJ'RJDQJWKHWUDLOEHJDQVLJQLÀFDQWO\ neighbouring mountains disappeared as quickly
ÁDWWHUWKDQ\HVWHUGD\7KHÀUVWKRXUPL[HG as they had appeared.
JUDGXDOFOLPELQJZLWKÁDWZDONVDORQJWKHULYHU During the last hour to Bedding, the snow
bank through dense green trees. The air was and wind picked up. The valley acted like a wind
thick with the smell of tree sap, damp soil and tunnel, offering no respite from the cold wind.
vegetation. For anyone who lives in Kathmandu, Then through the thick clouds that hit us, we
the smells and sounds of nature are a welcome came across the remains of a small village and
respite. the biggest landslide we had seen on the trip.
After an hour or so the trail turned and we Not a single house or building in its path could
entered the next stage of the valley, we were RIIHUDQ\VLJQLÀFDQWUHVLVWDQFHWRLWVUHOHQWOHVV
again beckoned on by the lofty peaks of the and destructive march downwards. Picking your
Himalayas. Surrounded on almost all sides way through stones and boulders the sizes of

cars along with broken windows and parts of

houses was a sobering experience. It was almost
impossible to imagine the lay of the town, it was
that badly destroyed. It wasn’t much more than
an hour later that we arrived in Bedding.
Bedding, being a Sherpa town, is littered
with huge mani stones, large boulders with
Buddhist inscriptions carved into the rock
face that dominate your arrival. Passing the
Rolwaling Sangag Choling Monastery, we were
told there were almost 35 households in Bedding,
yet in total we maybe saw 10 people, none of
them males of working age. Like so many other
places in Nepal, Bedding was bereft of men,
many working in cities or the Gulf countries. The
lack of people, certainly when the weather turns
nasty, gives the whole area a kind of deserted
atmosphere surrounded by damaged building
and no-one else. Our arrival into Bedding also
One such mountain was the sacred Gauri Shanker,
appeared to coincide with the point where
waterfalls ceased to run and instead became which appeared behind us as 7134 metres of glisten-
frozen waterfalls, all adding to the feeling off ing white Himalaya. Looking from right to left, our
isolation and remoteness. In Bedding they used necks craned as we tried to take in 6000 metre peak
to have V-net satellite phones but they stopped
working over 4 months ago and to date no one
after 7000 metre peak, just several of the 50 peaks
KDVEHHQXSWRÀ[LW7KHODFNRIFRPPXQLFDWLRQ over 6000 metres in the valley.
in the villages adds to the slight feeling of
abandonment that had been gnawing away at
me. Certainly the Rolwaling Valley feels miles been clear to us in yesterday’s cloud and snow
away from the relative hustle and bustle from became immediately apparent. We had thought
its two adjacent valleys, Langtang to the West Bedding was nestled in the bottom of the valley,
and the Solukhumbu to the East hemmed in by high hills at all sides. What we
We had aimed to make it to Na, however didn’t know is these hills, gave way to behemoths
upon arrival in Bedding we were told it was too that dominated the skyline. One such mountain
early in the season and no-one was in Na. Faced was the sacred Gauri Shanker, which appeared
with the decision of another 2 hours walk to behind us as 7134 metres of glistening white
camp, potentially having to pitch our tent deep Himalaya. Looking from right to left, our necks
in snow, or staying in Bedding and being able craned as we tried to take in 6000 metre peak
to get warm food, we made the easy decision to after 7000 metre peak, just several of the 50
stay in Bedding. It was only whilst having dinner peaks over 6000 metres in the valley. It was in
we realised the family we were staying with was such a moment where we having stopped simply
the family Thunda had meant for us to get in to remind ourselves of where we were, an eagle
contact with. We got ready for an early start to VRDUHGGRZQLQIURQWRIXV:LWKDQHDJOHÁRDWLQJ
Na and Tso Rolpa, yet as with so many things above us and snowy peaks surrounding us, we
here, it would all depend upon the weather. NQHZZHZHUHÀUPO\EDFNLQWKH+LPDOD\DV)RU
With our alarms set for 5, we woke up and almost 1 hour the trail continued to follow the
set the stove to boil water for coffee. However river before we climbed again, onto a plateau in
our early start had to be delayed as it was still the valley. In the near distance we could see a
pitch black outside, as it remained until 6:30. small settlement, Na, and behind that the rise
6OLJKWO\GHOD\HGEXWÀQDOO\RQRXUZD\WR1DDQG of what could only be the banks of Tso Rolpa.
leaving Bedding we were greeted by a stunning Walking into Na we caught the familiar taste
sight. It had snowed overnight, yet again but of abandonment, with everyone in Na living at a
the early morning weather was fantastic lower altitude waiting for the trekking season to
and without a cloud in the sky. The trail left begin, we had the town completely to ourselves.
Bedding and continued to head up through the Apart from numerous groups of yaks that is
valley. As the early morning sun hit the upper .Similar to Bedding, walking through a village
echelons of the Himalayas, the light radiated with 20 households but no people is a slightly
its way back through the valley. What had not surreal experience.

Leaving Na in our ascent to Tso Rolpa, we The shimmering white hue of the lake fed by
crossed the river and began walking across the Trakarding Glacier, which was completely
the snow to the largest glacial lake in Nepal. frozen, could only be matched by the surrounding
Continuing to climb gradually, the sheer scale peaks. Looking behind into the Rolwaling valley,
of where we were soon became apparent. We it looked as if we had left civilisation behind. By
were not walking around the Himalaya, but in this stage the early morning sun had really come
them. With approaches to peaks veering off from RXWLQIRUFHDQGWKHPDJQLÀFHQWEOXHVN\FRXOG
our path, with the right ropes and equipment be found deep in the glacial ice, in glaciers close
we could have easily climbed several. After an to 1000 metres above us. Walking, tentatively,
hours walk from Na we reached the bottom of onto the frozen lake it was impossible not to
the banks of the Tso Rolpa. Tso Rolpa, is not only smile, surrounded by nothing but mountains and
the largest glacial lake in Nepal, it is also in an extreme terrain on all sides, we were reminded
increasingly precarious state. Considered at high
just of the small scale of our human lives and
ULVNRIJODFLDOODNHRXWEXUVWÁRRGLQJWKHEDQNV
the sheer indomitable power of nature. From
had been reinforced and early warning systems
Tengi Ragi Tau to Bigphera Go Shar, we were
put in place. Yet none of this was reassuring
surrounded by peaks. We seemed so small and
enough to us as we dragged ourselves up the
LQVLJQLÀFDQWLQWKHIDFHRIVXFKPDVVLIV
ÀQDODVFHQW6WDUWLQJDWWKHYDOOH\ERWWRPDW
1E\MQMPPMERMWE&VMXMWL Chetchet only three days before had left us fully Knowing within a few days of continuing
FSVRVIWIEVGLIVERH acclimated. Therefore it would be disingenuous our trek we would cross the Tashi Lapek pass
JVIIPERGINSYVREPMWX WRGHVFULEHWKHÀQDOVHFWLRQRIFOLPELQJDOPRVW and drop down into Namche Bazar in the
GYVVIRXP]FEWIHSRXLI 200 metres of steep vertical as anything more Solukhumbu, it is with no small reluctance we
8LEM&YVQEFSVHIV than an ordeal. The respite was, however, in realised our onward journey had to end here. Our
[LSWTIGMEPMWIWMR every 10 metres being offered a new view of a time in the Rolwaling valley had been equally
[VMXMRKERHVIWIEVGLMRK PRXQWDLQWKDWKDGFRPHLQWRYLHZ7KHÀQDO challenging and rewarding. With an atmosphere
TSPMXMGEPHIZIPSTQIRXEP steps carved into the rock were covered in snow, like no other in Nepal the valley is truly special.
ERHLYQERVMKLXW but eventually after 3 days, 3000 metres of To say the Rolwaling valley is an intoxicating
MWWYIWMR7SYXLERH vertical we climbed over the last boulder and combination of being both unspoiled and unique,
7SYXL)EWX%WME Tso Rolpa came into view. would be a cliché, yet it would also be true.

Tibet
&=&)2+6%=0-2+
W
hen describing Tibet, images that When the rail was completed between Lhasa and
LPPHGLDWHO\ÁRRGP\PLQGDUH« Beijing, more Han Chinese began to move into TAR,
breathtaking scenery, spectacular the Chinese Central Government gave them incen-
vistas, huge tracts of emptiness and tives to relocate their families and businesses to the
ORFDODUFKLWHFWXUH7KHVRXQGV«FKDQWVIURPPRQNV UHJLRQ$VPDQ\7LEHWDQVÁHGIURPWKHLUKRPHVDQG
and nuns; the clatter, booming and banging of sym- country, the Han Chinese were moving in, mainly
bols, horns and drums from the monasteries and of from the Sichuan Province, in fact Lhasa is known
course the laughter of children playing in the streets. as ‘Little Sichuan’ to many of the Han immigrants.
Wandering nomads with their ponies, yaks, sheep, 0DQ\FDOOLW¶VRFLDOJHQRFLGH·IHZHUODEHOWKLVLQÁX[RI
JRDWVDQGGRJV«DVZHOODVSLOJULPVVRPHWLPHV the Han Chinese as progress. I guess if it wasn’t for
prostrating for years at a time. The Tibetans are progress, we would still be walking around wearing
generous, cheerful, serene and extremely devout. loincloths with clubs in hand, dragging ‘our’ women
$OVRWKHVPHOOV«LQFHQVHDQGMRVVLQWR[LFDWLQJ by their hair, (Not for one minute am I referring to
RQHVVHQVHVWKHULFKQHVVRIÁLFNHULQJEXWWHUODPSV Tibetans as Neandatholic, this description is being
and the earthiness of burning yak dung; the slightest used as a general example for mankind).
whiff of one of these smells anywhere around the Conquering and taking over seems to be a natural
world, immediately takes me back to Tibet. human progression. It has been the lore of the land
Known as Xizang (pronounced ‘See-zjang’), Tibet since day dot and will most probably continue in
Autonomous Region, (TAR) and often referred to as some way or form forever. Look at the Romans, the
WKH¶5RRIRIWKH:RUOG·7LEHWLVDSURYLQFHRI&KLQD« Turks, Mongols, British, Dutch, Portuguese and The
a province plagued with controversy and constantly Persians and in more recent times the Australians
in the eyes of the international media. and Americans and the list doesn’t end there either.
2K7LEHW«EHDXWLIXOEHDXWLIXO7LEHWVXFKDVDG They all went in and conquered different regions
history and an uncertain future. and countries, countries which mostly thrived and
There is also much contrast. Contrast between prospered under their governance. Even the Mongols
the old and the new, between the Tibetans and the conquered and governed China out of Beijing for a
+DQ&KLQHVHDQGEHWZHHQWKHULFKDQGWKHSRRU« hundred or so years!
just to name a few. Free Tibet... will this ever be possible? There
7LEHWZDVP\ÀUVWHYHUWDVWHRI&KLQDDQGZKHQ KDVEHHQVRPXFKORVWLQWKLVÀJKWIRUIUHHGRPDQG
,ZDVGULYLQJLQWR/KDVDIRUWKHÀUVWWLPH,FRXOGQ·W equality. Lives have been lost, families split and
EHOLHYHLW«LWZDVVR&KLQHVH(YHQWKRXJK,KDG public self-burnings. Wouldn’t all of this negative
never been to China I could tell from the white tiled energy be better spent in a positive way for Tibet
EXLOGLQJVDQGEOXHUHÁHFWLYHJODVVZLQGRZVLQVR and her people? Look towards the future, learn to
many of those buildings that this was China. I’d adapt, live together in peace and harmony and also
seen enough photos and heard enough stories about share the political roles and cultural activities with
the Chinese style of building for me to recognise the the ever-shrinking Tibetan population.
typical Chinese architecture. Needless to say, I was 7KHÀUVWWLPH,DUULYHGLQ/KDVD,VHWRXWWRGR
disappointed. It was Tibet I had come to experience, something I love doing in cities around the world;
not Han China. Where was the Tibet I had been I went and got lost. That was after the initial cul-
dreaming about for all of those years? ture shock of not only discovering so much of Old
28 | TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019

YA 29
TIBET

TIBET
Lhasa had been destroyed and rebuilt

with sterile architecture, but the fact
that Lhasa had become the capital for
sex workers in China, where women can
be bought and sold and often not paid
anything for their services until the new
‘owner’ has recouped his or her initial
outlay. Soldiers from the ever-present
Chinese Army and truck drivers seem
to be the main clients of these women,
many who were trapped or tricked into
this industry.
Lhasa’s altitude is around 3,500m,
making it one of the highest cities in
the world. If one has taken the classic
route from Kathmandu on the Friend-
ship Highway they will be well and truly
DFFOLPDWLVHG,IRQHKDVÁRZQLQGLUHFWO\
to Lhasa the effects of altitude will most
probably be felt; most new arrivals feel
TXLWHGUHDGIXO«V\PSWRPVLQFOXGHKHDG-
ache, nausea, shortness of breath and
lethargy, to name a few. Best to take it
easy for a day or two, just hang about
your hotel, drink plenty of water and
GHÀQLWHO\GRQRWRYHUGRLW
call dedication. The Tibetan Buddhist
Barkhor, the old Lhasa, is still stand- 86%:)08-47
pilgrims are some of the, if not, the most
ing and the Tibetan population is thick
devoted in the world.
on the ground. The Jokhang Temple, for
most Tibetans, is the most sacred and Getting lost in the Barkhor is simply
• To board a plane or train to Tibet
important in Tibet. It is located in the fascinating. Not only are there the pil-
you need a Tibet Tourism Bureau
heart of the Barkhor on Barkhor Square. grims, but there are Tibetans dressed
(TTB) permit.
Hours can be spent watching or stroll- in their local costumes going about their
• Must book a guide for your entire
ing with the Tibetan Pilgrims walking daily business, shopping and bargaining,
trip
the kora or prostrating. A kora is a path chatting, laughing and drinking butter
tea. There are a thousand bargains to be • Pre-arrange private transport for
taken around a temple or a sacred sight
found in the many tourist stalls on Bark- trips outside Lhasa.
by Buddhists walking or prostrating in
a clockwise direction chanting mantras hor Square from human skulls to amber • Travel outside Lhasa requires
and spinning handheld prayer wheels or necklaces, yak bone prayer beads and additional permits.
prayer beads. The aim of prostrating is to traditional Tibetan clothing. Walking • Visitors are not allowed to take
give one more suffering. Koras are per- amongst the old buildings where many public transport outside Lhasa.
formed with the belief of having a peace- of the Tibetans live and spend much of
• The original permit is required if
ful life and happy afterlife. Some pilgrims their time is a delight, if you are lucky,
ƽ]MRKJVSQ[MXLMR'LMRE
will literally spend years prostrating to you may be befriended by a local and
invited into their home for butter tea, • When entering Tibet from Nepal
7KH-RNKDQJ7KHPRUHDIÁXHQWZLOOKLUH
dried yak meat and hard dried cheese you have to travel on a short-term
someone to pull a cart with all of their
that could easily crack a tooth! group visa.
needs whilst on the road prostrating, the
QRWVRDIÁXHQWZLOOKDXOWKHLURZQFDUW A day can easily be spent on the
thus making the journey three times as Lhasa koras. There are four major koras
long. Once talking to a pilgrim on the beginning with the Inner Kora which For more information on over-land-
side of the road who was pulling his own is inside the Jokhang Temple, the Mid- ing: Ben and his team are available
cart, I mentioned ‘you go to Lhasa twice’, dle Kora which is the path outside the through info@boa-overland.com
his reply, ‘no, I go three times’, of course Jokhang, the Outer Kora which is the or contact a rep from Australia,
he was right, he would prostrate to a Lingkhor Circuit and takes around two New Zealand, Canada, the US and
certain point, walk back to his cart, pull and a half hours or there is the Potala the UK. Details are also on the
it further down the road, walk back to Kora which takes around forty minutes. website: www.boa-overland.com
where he last prostrated and beginning It is so interesting to watch these pil-
the process again. Now that is what I grims, many will take no notice of you

TIBET
at Nyalam, Old Tingri, Shigatse (Tashilhunpo

Monastery [seat of the Panchen Lamas] and Sam-
druptse Dzong [reconstructed]), Gyantse (Kum-
bum and Gyantse Dzong) and often including a
stop at Everest Base camp.
There is so much more to see in this beauti-
ful province. More accessible now due to better
roads, but still very isolated are Mount Kailash
and the abandoned Guge Kingdom in Western
Tibet. Mount Kailash is sacred to the Buddhist,
Bon, Hindu and Jain religions and is an incredibly
important pilgrimage site and believed to be home
of Lord Shiva. The 6,638m mountain has never
been climbed and is near the source of several of
Asia’s well-known rivers, The Ganges, Indus and
Brahmaputra.
The abandoned Guge Kingdom is further west
of Mount Kailash and is even less frequented by
tourists. The kingdom was abandoned in the
1600’s. As well as large tracts of Western Tibet,
some of Northern India including swathes of Spiti
Valley, Zanskar and Upper Kinnaur were part of
the kingdom.
More accessible than Kailash and Guge is Nam
Tso (Heavenly Lake), which is only a few hours
drive to the north and slightly west of Lhasa and
can be made into a long day trip. It is the largest
and highest (4,718m) salt water lake in the world
and completely freezes over in winter. Nam Tso is
considered to be one of the main three holy lakes
in Tibet, the other two being Yamdrok Tso and
Mapam Yum Tso. Nam Tso is considered to be one
of the most beautiful lakes in Tibet and the views
are absolutely stunning and majestic.
One important consideration that many tour-
ists and tourist operators neglect to cover is accli-
matisation. The lack of acclimatisation prepara-
tion has in many cases ruined (or worse) many a
travellers dream holiday. It is vitally important
Guge Nam Tso (Heavenly and go about their ritual, others will beam at you to tackle this issue accordingly and not cover as
Lake), it is the largest
in delight and some will even chat with you out much ground as possible in as short a time as pos-
and highest (4,718m) salt
water lake in the world RIFXULRVLW\«RUSHUKDSVSUDFWLFLQJWKHLU(QJOLVK sible, a recipe for disaster. Best Of Asia Overland
Other attractions in and around Lhasa are of meticulously plan and run their trips with time to
FRXUVHWKHPDJQLÀFHQWDQGVWULNLQJ3RWDOD3DODFH acclimatise properly and as well as comfortably,
an amazing structure, though now it is devoid of we even carry oxygen and constantly monitor our
life, very dark and almost seems like the hollow client’s oxygen saturation levels. Remember if
shell it must have once been. Norbulingka which you are on a trip from Kathmandu to Lhasa, once
was Summer Palace to the Dalai Lamas and is traversing Lalung La (Pass) which is over 5,000m,
only a short distance from the Potala Palace and until arriving in Lhasa, the altitude travelled is
also there is Sera Monastery, well known for the generally around 4,000m, give or take 100m or so.
debating monks (who literally shout at each other). Enjoy Tibet. If you are lucky enough to see a
A little out of Lhasa are Drepung Monastery and wild yak, take plenty of photos. If you witness a
Ganden Monastery. sky burial, please show your respect by not taking
As mentioned earlier, the Friendship Highway any photos or going too close to the ceremony.
between Kathmandu and Lhasa is the classic route Travel in Tibet must be done in a group (mini-
taken by tourists in Tibet. Typically overnighting mum two) and permits must be obtained.

ADVENTURE GUIDED GROUPS | TAILORMADE | SELF-GUIDED
Manaslu Lodge Circuit

19 days from £2,340pp
A lesser-known circular trek around one of the world’s highest mountains.

This spectacular and isolated circular trek skirts around the eighth highest
mountain in the world, the formidable Mount Manaslu (8,163m)
exodus.co.uk/trip/TNA
exodus.co.uk 0203 131 7614
C U LT U R E • TR E K K I N G • C YCL I N G • FA M I LY • W I N TE R AC TI V ITI E S • W I L D L I F E • P O L A R
MANASLU
CIRCUIT &
THE LARKYE LA
&=:%0)6-)4%6/-2732
MANASLU CIRCUIT & THE LARKYE LA
T
KHPDJQLÀFHQWFLUFXODUWUHNDURXQG Himalayan peaks and glaciers surround you
Manaslu crossing the Larkye pass before you descend again into verdant forests.
has long been dismissed as the The people and culture change throughout
poorer sister of the more popular WKHWUHN,QWKHORZHUHOHYDWLRQVZHÀQGWKH
Annapurna Circuit trail. This is mainly due to Gurung mountain people while higher up are
the fact that Manaslu has never been as famous those Tibetan Buddhist who emigrated here
a mountain as Annapurna and up to a couple of centuries ago. along the way.
years ago there were hardly any lodges or tea
houses en-route. But this hidden gem of a trek Last November I set off from Kathmandu
is a not to be missed as a classic Himalayan ZLWKDJURXSRIERWKÀUVWWLPHDQG
trek. Nowadays, it is possible to trek the whole experienced Himalayan trekkers. It was
route staying in local lodges or teahouses. a long drive to the start of the trek at
Arughat, and although the road is good for
“Probably the best Himalayan trek I have ever
WKHÀUVWIHZKRXUV·WR'KDGLQJ%HVLWKHODVW
done”, “Nepal as it was 30 years ago”, “fantastic
part of the journey deteriorates into a mud
classic Himalayan scenery”, are some of the
track and our bus rumbled up and down
comments from a very experienced group of
the hills - after eight hours we were glad to
trekkers I took round the circuit last year. I
leave the road and start walking.
ÀUVWVWDUWHGOHDGLQJWUHNVLQ1HSDO\HDUVDJR
and absolutely agree with them - the culture
One of the great advantages of this trek is
and way of life reminded me of how Nepal was
that it starts very low – below 1000m – and
ZKHQ,ÀUVWWUHNNHGWKHUHLQWKH·V
DOWKRXJKWKLVFDQPHDQWKDWWKHÀUVWIHZ
Until a year or so ago the trek could only really days are hot, it also means the trek is great
be done as a camping trek, but now there are for acclimatisation. We started walking on
lodges along the route and new ones are being a new jeep track through Arkhet Bazaar
built all the time. The tea houses vary in terms and on to Soti Khola (another reason to
of comfort and facilities and MCAP (Manaslu do this trek sooner rather than later is a
Conservation Area Project), has run courses on jeep track being blasted out of the cliffs,
lodge management. You do need a special trek which will eventually spoil the trek). We
permit for Manaslu but this is easy to get in crossed the river to avoid the jeep track and
Kathmandu, you have to have a minimum of trekked through small villages to Lapubesi,
two trekkers per group and every group must where a nice lodge and good food awaited
KDYHDJXLGHVR\RXZLOOQRWÀQGLQGLYLGXDO us. The next couple of days we followed the
backpackers. This means the trails are quieter mighty Budhi Gandaki River, heading north
than other more popular routes. on a roller coaster of ups and downs. We
passed through attractive traditional Hindu
The beauty of this trek is its diversity and YLOODJHVZLWKÀHOGVRIULFHZKHDWEDQDQD
the ever-changing landscapes - from tropical trees and wonderful fresh vegetables, many
lowland villages with rice paddies and banana of which appeared in our dinner. At Jagat
WUHHV\RXWKHQWUHNNLQJWKURXJKPDJQLÀFHQW ZHVDZRXUÀUVW%XGGKLVWVWXSDDQGIURP
forests and gorges to the upper regions of here the houses were built of stone with
Nepal, where there are only big mountains intricately carved windows and doors. As
and the scenery is wild and barren. Crossing ZHFOLPEHGXSWR3KLOLPZHJRWRXUÀUVW
the Larkye La, the highpoint of the trek, huge tempting views of the snow-capped peaks



of the Shringi Himal and then a great bit of

trail high above the river contoured round
the valley before descending to a spectacular
gorge. The trail hugged the river and we were
almost deafened by the roar of the water
Turning a corner at Deng, we began to climb

high above the valley through Bihi and Ghap,
descending at times to cross the river on
well-made suspension bridges – this area was
quite badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake
but MCAP have repaired most of the trails
now – landslide areas have paths across and
signs warning trekkers to take care. We now
ascended through thick forested areas with
spotted langur monkeys swinging from trees
and there were plenty of birds to keep the
birders happy. After Namrung (where we
stopped for tea at a very upmarket lodge),
the valley widened and the trees started to
thin out. The crops changed to corn, which
bears seem to love, and most farms have bear
lookout platforms. Small settlements with
traditional stone and wood houses dotted the
landscape as we approached the larger village
of Lho, where a large beautifully painted
chorten sits in the middle of the village and
SURYLGHVDJUHDWIRUHJURXQGWRWKHÀUVWJRRG
view of Manaslu, with its two distinctive
peaks. We were now in the Buddhist part of
WKHWUHNZLWKFRORXUIXOSUD\HUÁDJVÁXWWHULQJ
from rooftops, beautifully carved mani
(prayer) stones and monasteries.
Most of the larger villages have lodges and

as the numbers of trekkers increase more are
being built. They are simple but adequate with
twin bedded rooms and common toilets and
showers. Most have electricity and some even
have Wi-Fi. All have a standardised menu
with a good choice of food. Dal bhat, the typical
Nepali dish of rice, lentils and vegetable curry
is always tasty and a good option if you are
hungry as you can eat as much as you want but
there is also pizza, chips and pasta on the


menu. Desert offerings were usually apple top of one another and yaks running around
turnover or apple fritters, the latter were voted WKHÀHOGVWKHORGJHVKDYHEHHQEXLOWRI
as ‘best pudding of the trek’, although we did concrete and unfortunately look out of place.
think that the lodges are missing a trick not The trail to the base of the pass climbed
offering custard as well!. slowly above the tree line - Manaslu can now
be seen from a completely different angle and
From Lho it was three short days for with binoculars you can trace the route to the
acclimatisation to the base of the Larkye summit. Blue Sheep scrambled on the steep
La. The sky was now clearer and the nights slopes above us and Lammergeyers and
colder as we trekked above 3,000m. The +LPDOD\DQ*ULIÀQ9XOWXUHVVRDUHGRQWKH
views became ever more dramatic as huge thermals in a brilliant blue sky. At the base
Himalayan giants towered above us – of the pass there is a very basic lodge and
Manaslu, Himalchuli, Baudha –we felt as VRPHÀ[HGWHQWVDQGDIWHUDQHDUO\GLQQHUZH
though we could almost touch them as we retired to the warmth of our sleeping bags
approached Samagoan, the largest village in for a few hours sleep before our wakeup call
the area, with traditional medieval houses at 4am. Outside the air was crisp and cold
made of stone with beautifully carved wooden and the Milky Way spread across the starlit
OLQWHOV$QLPDOVDUHNHSWRQWKHJURXQGÁRRU sky. After a cup of hot sweet tea and a bowl
DQGWKHSHRSOHOLYHRQWKHÀUVWÁRRUZKLFK of porridge we were on our way. The trail
they reach climbing a ladder made of a tree ascended a narrow valley steadily - compared
trunk with steps carved out. The people to some of the passes in Nepal this one is
here are Tibetan stock and follow Tibetan relatively easy in terms of gradient, and as
Buddhism - wild haired children ran around WKHÀUVWUD\VRIVXQKLWWKHKLJKHUSHDNV
dressed in home spun woollen clothes - the turning them pink we climbed onto the rocky
way of life here has not changed for centuries. glacial moraine. When there is no snow the
trail is easy to follow but in case of snow
Watching over Samagoan is Manaslu, at MCAP have placed marker poles on the trail.
8,163m it is the eighth highest mountain About half way there was a welcome stop at
RQHDUWKÀUVWFOLPEHGE\WKH-DSDQHVHLQ a small stone hut for a hot drink and a bit of
1956. Until the last decade there were only a respite from the chilly wind. Our pace had
handful of summits and it was called the “killer slowed now to a high-altitude plod and it
mountain” and was considered dangerous. In WRRNXVÀYHKRXUVIURP'KDUDPVDOODWRWKH
WKHÀUVWFRPPHUFLDOH[SHGLWLRQVFOLPEHG summit, marked in traditional Buddhist way
Manaslu and since then mountaineers from all ZLWKKXQGUHGVRISUD\HUÁDJV%\QRZWKH
over the world attempt the peak every spring wind was really blowing and there was only
and autumn. The huge glacier that descends just time for a quick photo before we had to
from Manaslu can be seen from the village and get down the other side (the pass actually
a popular short hike is to Birendra Lake at the KDVWZRVXPPLWV²WKHÀUVWRQHDWP
foot of the massive icefall. where most trekkers stop and another 10
minutes further on at 5,150m). On the other
A couple more half days brought us through the side we were greeted by a totally unexpected
windswept village of Samdo to Dharamsalla at panorama of peaks and glaciers - the
the foot of the pass. Don’t expect luxury in these mountains ahead of us towered high into the
two places - although Samdo is an amazing sky and glaciers ran down their sides joining
medieval village with stone houses stacked on in the valley bottom to form one big icefall.

86%:)08-47
It was hard to keep our eyes on the trail, but one must
resist from looking up as the trail down the pass is
extremely steep and rocky. We descended slowly and
carefully, picking our way through rocks until we reached
WKHYDOOH\ÁRRUDQGDYHU\ZHOFRPHWHDVKRS7KHODVWSDUW
of the day brought us easily down the valley to Bimthang, VISA AND PERMITS
where we stayed two nights, with a day to recover and do a =SYVIUYMVIEZMWEJSV2ITEP[LMGL]SYGER
KIXFIJSVILERHJVSQ]SYVGSYRXMIW2ITEPM
highly recommended side trip to Pongkar Lake, with close IQFEWW]SV]SYGERKIXMXSREVVMZEP
up views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. =SYRIIHE1EREWPYTIVQMX[LMGLGSWXW
TIV[IIOMRWTVMRKERHTIV[IIO
MREYXYQR=SY[MPPEPWSRIIH1'%4TIVQMX
The last two days of the trek brought us down to the main [LMGLMW26WERH%'%4TIVQMX[LMGL
MW26W&VMRKEFSYXTEWWTSVXWMÎH
Annapurna trail. Many of my group expected a slow and TLSXSW=SYLEZIXSXVIO[MXLEKYMHI
not very interesting walk back down the valley but they %R]JSVIMKRGSQTER]VYRRMRKXVIOWXS
1EREWPY[MPPWSVXXLITIVQMXWSYXJSV]SYERH
were mistaken. Leaving Bimthang the panorama looking
ER]PSGEP2ITEPMGSQTER]WLSYPHFIEFPIXS
back was one of the best of the trek and the walk down SFXEMRXLITIVQMXWMR/EXLQERHYQMRYWȾ'
through the forest was a welcome respite after the barren MR2ERHE(IZM
high-altitude days and also great for bird watching. We CURRENCY/MONEY

spent a night at a lovely lodge at Tilje and then joined the 8LIGYVVIRG]MR2ITEPMW2ITEPM6YTII=SY
GERGLERKIQSRI]SREVVMZEPEX/EXLQERHY
main Annapurna trail at Dharapani. The last afternoon EMVTSVXSVEXER]VIKMWXIVIHQSRI]GLERKIV
we walked to Jagat where the next day we took jeeps for a MRXS[R8LIVIEVI%81QEGLMRIWMR
/EXLQERHY3RXVIO]SY[MPPRIIHXSGEVV]
bone rattling two hours to Besisahar, where our bus met VYTIIWXSTE]JSVJSSHERHEGGSQQSHEXMSR
us for the drive back to Kathmandu and the joys of a hot %PPS[ETTVS\MQEXIP]eTIVTIVWSRTIVHE]
JSVFSXLJSSHERHEGGSQQSHEXMSR
shower, clean clothes and a beer!
GETTING AROUND
Written by Valerie Parkinson. Valerie leads treks for 7SQISJXLIPSHKIWLEZIIPIGXVMGMX]WSQI
SRP]LEZIWSPEVTS[IV1SWXLEZIPMKLXWMR
Exodus Travels UK who offer trekking and adventure XLIFIHVSSQWERHHMRMRKVSSQFYXEJI[
tours worldwide (www.exodus.co.uk). In 2008 Valerie SRP]LEZIPMKLXMRXLIHMRMRKVSSQ7SQILEZI
;M*MRS[FYXRSXEPP1SWXSJJIVLSXWLS[IVW
EHFDPHWKHÀUVW%ULWLVKZRPDQWRVXPPLW0DQDVOX EPXLSYKLXLMWQE]NYWXFIEFYGOIXSJLSX
without the use of supplementary oxygen. In 2019 [EXIV %PPLEZIQIRYW[MXLEKSSHGLSMGI
SJJSSH
Valerie will be 60 and will have spent more than half her 8LIPSHKIWMR7EQHSERH(LEVEQWEPEEVI
life leading treks and climbs in the Himalaya. During ZIV]FEWMGFYXSXLIV[MWIXLIPSHKIWEVI
QSWXP]KSSH
her Summit 60 year she will be leading a whole series
of special treks, including the Manaslu Circuit on the
14th November. For more information visit: www.exodus.
co.uk/valerie-parkinson

Kathmandu Valley of the Green-Eyed Yellow Idol
ç³X z¨«XÁ!R«(‫ٳ‬hz0³z( JX z³

A
crid, pungent-smelling smoke
drifts across the dark and dingy
The Kathmandu that
room, where a long-haired, we first visited in
bedraggled man slumps in one
corner. Outside the low-ceilinged room,
1974 was a small
open to the street on one side, grubby town surrounded
children play with a tobacco wrapping
by rice fields, lush
from a traditional beedi, the poor man’s
smoking choice. The bedraggled man, a vegetation and
(XURSHDQGUDZVRQKLVFOD\&KLOLPHSLSH« fairytale thatched
the perfume of marijuana drifts to our
WDEOHHQJXOÀQJRXUWDVW\OHPRQPHULQJXH houses; temples,
pies in its calming vapour. It’s 1974, just stupas and shrines
off Durbar Square, down Pig Alley, better
known as Pie Alley, in Kathmandu. (1) outnumbered the
travellers who made
The sleek grey minibus pulls up behind a
gate that leads into a dream-like garden,
it this far east.
surrounded by Rana inspired colonial-
style facades that host a plethora of plush reels of some of the early Everest attempts
boutique-style rooms. Having consumed – enough to awaken a curiosity that would
DQ,WDOLDQ/DWWHDJURXSRIDURXQGÀIWHHQ become an addiction.
smartly dressed trekkers, closeted in bright
ÁHHFHVEUDFHIRUWKHFULVSHDUO\PRUQLQJ 7KH.DWKPDQGXWKDWZHÀUVWYLVLWHGLQ
air, excitedly grabbing the best seats in the ZDVDVPDOOWRZQVXUURXQGHGE\ULFHÀHOGV
vehicle. They are off to the domestic airport lush vegetation and fairytale thatched houses;
IRUDÁLJKWWR/XNODWKHDLUVWULSIRUWKH temples, stupas and shrines outnumbered the
Everest region and the Base Camp they travellers who made it this far east. We had
hope to reach. It is 2018 in Thamel, the driven an old Land Rover from the UK across
district in Kathmandu that currently hosts Europe to Istanbul, then across the Middle
most overseas visitors. (2) East to Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India
DQGÀQDOO\1HSDO2XUÀUVWJOLPSVHRIWKH
Two visions spanning over forty years Kathmandu Valley was intoxicating; the great
of the once-fabled Kathmandu Valley, Himalayan barrier was hidden by monsoon
a valley so drastically changed that clouds, concentrating all our senses on the
even an intoxicated hippy would surely valley below. (4) & (5) Anyone with a vehicle
notice. Before the seventies it was mainly then camped at Withes Hotel in Teku (now
mountaineers who frequented Kathmandu, the Valley View Hotel and still just visible,
HQURXWHWRWKHÀUVWVXPPLWELGVRIWKH almost buried by a sea of commercial high-rise
Himalaya. A few invited VIPs managed structures). Across the road farmers worked
to enter the valley before 1950 as guests LQWKHPXGG\ÀHOGVE\WKHULYHU
of the ruling Ranas, taking just enough
photographs to arouse interest from the The old city limits were barely two minutes
outside world. We too glimpsed such away and Freak Street (Jochen Tole) just 10
images, along with the old Pathe News minutes’ walk, below dilapidated temples,

VALLEY OF THE GREEN-EYED YELLOW IDOL
shrines and hundreds of idols. (6) & (7) Freak mysterious idols. Hippies colonised the
Street also hosted many small, low-ceilinged temple steps, oblivious to the religious
cafés and eateries, where hippies, self- fervour all around. Deep in the dark,
appointed philosophers, would-be writers and narrow alleys of Asan bazaar, mysterious
travellers gathered over buff steak and chips temple images kept a watchful eye – the
or chocolate cake. Rumours abounded that most intriguing being the strange-eyed
Cat Stevens (of Buddha and the Chocolate White Machhendranath, the rain god. In
Box fame) or Bob Dylan were just around the the maze of traditional courtyards (bahals)
FRUQHU2XWVLGHWKHÀOWKZDVFOHDQHGXSE\ that made up the old city, women washed
pigs and nonchalant holy cows. Off New Road, pots as children scurried about, eager to
the only modern thoroughfare, Aunt Jane’s meet a strange foreigner. The men smoked
was another travellers’ institution, renowned their beedies and discussed the latest twist
for its delicious American-style chocolate to the political intrigues of the day.
cakes.
Around the valley, narrow dusty lanes led
Many of the temples in Durbar Square to Patan, which then consisted of hardly
precariously stood sentinel over the throng more than a couple of streets around the
of local sellers by day, while in the evenings PDJQLÀFHQWUHOLFVRIWKH0DOOD.LQJVLQ
VWUHHWPXVLFLDQVSOD\HGÁXWHVGUXPVDQG Durbar Square, and to Bhaktapur, the
accordions. A bell would ring out from a smaller of the three royal cities of the
shrine housing an elephant-style image valley. Pashupatinath enjoyed a quiet spot
(Ganesh) near a myriad of devotees, below the forest beside the Bagmati river,
paying homage to the array of strange and where ascetics and holy men (sadhus)
48 | TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 www.himalayamagazine.com

www.himalayamagazine.com TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 | 49

would pounce on unwary travellers offering area with some large houses and open
red tika powder as a blessing. Further out areas. Prior to this, the area of Thamel
of town on a hilltop, Swayambhunath, the and Chetrapati was believed to have been
Monkey Temple, was a quiet walk across the inhabited by bad spirits. (12)
ÀHOGV7KH%XGGKLVWFHQWUHRI%RXGKDQDWKWR
WKHQRUWKHDVWZDVVXUURXQGHGE\ÀHOGVRIULFH :HÀUVWFDPHWR7KDPHOLQGULYLQJ
where clumps of tall bamboo trees swayed in into the Kathmandu Guest House with a
the breeze. (8) & (9) The once important and truckload of cleanshaven travellers from
historic settlement of Kirtipur was rarely London; the journey took 12 weeks. (13)
visited by travellers, although we visited by The narrow lane from Narsingh Chowk
bicycle in 1984. (10) hosted small houses, a tumbledown temple
and a high wall hiding a garden (now
Just before the coronation of King Birendra shops); it continued around past the KGH
in the spring of 1975, the hippies were evicted and the Tukuche Peak Hotel below more
from Durbar Square and Freak Street, and walls and gardens. The Asia Hotel in
sent to further oblivion across India. (11) Jyatha was another choice. As for eating,
(11A or 11A) By the end of the seventies the we had very limited options. There were
travellers had moved to Thamel, a semi-rural two Tibetan places, the Ashta Mangal and


Utse, both with head-bashingly low entrances. Kabul, the dubious ice-cream parlours of
(14) The Jamaly café run by Narayan offered Delhi and the exotic delights of Varanasi.
superb pies and cakes. (15) KC’s, whose (16) When the Shah of Iran was ousted
amiable owner had migrated from Pie Alley, in 1979 by the revolutionary guards of
VHUYHGXSWKHÀUVWUHDOVWHDNVSXPSNLQ Ayatollah Khomeini and the Russians
pie, rum and raisin cheesecake along with invaded Afghanistan, the golden days
his renowned Nightlife cocktails. The Bistro of the overland route were suffocated. A
garden restaurant broadcast the Nepal radio trickle did still drive to Kathmandu, but
news in English at 8pm daily, almost the the heady days of wild overland adventure
only source of news for foreigners. The only virtually died; it was time for a new breed
watering hole for any western-style nightlife of traveller to seek out the charms of Nepal.
was the Joker, and later the Up and Down
EDUZKRVHÁRRULQGHHGPRYHGXSDQGGRZQ The trekking scene really grew quickly in
with dancers and loud music. the 1980s and with it the leafy lanes of
Thamel began to disappear under shops,
By the late 1970s the overland trail from new hotels, restaurants and bars. (17) &
Europe to Kathmandu had become a torrent, (18) Mountaineers and adventure-seekers
with half-broken-down buses, well equipped ÀOOHGWKHODQHVWKHEX]]RI7KDPHOZDV
trucks and VW minibuses crunching their never silenced. Trekking fever spread
JHDUER[HVXSWKHÀQDOKLOOIURP1DXELVHWR in the 1990s, while more well-heeled
the fabled valley. Adventurers poured into visitors realised that the splendours
the lanes of Kathmandu, already fat from of Kathmandu’s cultural assets and
the strawberry pies of Chicken Street in traditional festivities held as much interest

as the high mountain passes. (19) But drive from London to Kathmandu in our own
things were not all rosy in the valley. converted Swansea city bus, with a group of
Political tensions erupted in 1990 when clients all over 55 – those who had missed
a democratic movement challenged the out on the travellers’ trail in the 1970s. The
king’s outright authority. A short but at HYHQWVRI²ZHUHWKHÀQDOQDLOLQWKHFRIÀQ
times frightening (even for us holed up in for overland travel, and we became ‘prisoners’
hotels in Thamel) rebellion swept away of the airlines in order to reach Kathmandu.
most of King Birendra’s powers, replacing
WKHPZLWKDÁHGJOLQJGHPRFUDF\IXOORI Our newfound occupation was editing out-
hope. We were still leading treks during of-date books for Pilgrims Book House. We
that period, as more areas of the country learnt a great deal more about the culture,
opened, such as Upper Mustang and the religions and a whole myriad of historical
Dolpo. facts about Nepal and Tibet, which opened
in 1985 to independent travellers. We still
Kathmandu was changing very fast by headed to the mountains to revitalise body
then, as thousands of people migrated and soul; no one could sit around Kathmandu
to the cities, especially during the long for weeks, despite the obvious attractions of
Maoist insurgency at the start of the Thamel. The string of regular annual visitors
new millennium. The narrow lanes could meant a full diary of social engagements
QRORQJHUFRSHZLWKLQFUHDVLQJWUDIÀF to catch up on – returning western friends
pollution began to obscure all the fabulous and Nepalese tourism colleagues, Sherpas,
mountain views from the rooftops. Once porters, restaurant staff, hotel owners, taxi
again in 1999–2000 we were able to drivers and even fortune tellers.

In June 2001 an event occurred that celebrate their New Year – Losar – in late
undoubtedly changed Nepal forever. King winter (January/February) at monasteries
Birendra and most of his family were around the valley. Another festival
assassinated, most probably by his son celebrates the White Machhendranath
Dipendra. Doubts remain about the killing in Kathmandu, again the idol is ferried
spree, but its outcome has impacted the around the narrow lanes of the old city
country ever since. The changes that have in a crescendo of riotous pandemonium.
occurred in the last ten years are staggering. (22) In April the Nepalese New Year’s
Much of the valley has been built on, as the festivities begin with a chariot procession
demand for better and more housing has in Bhaktapur. This is soon followed by
gobbled up the once pristine countryside. more exuberant celebration when the Red
Roads have been widened, traditional Machhendranath idol is moved in a tall,
houses have had to make way for modern swaying chariot between Bungamati and
amenities, some temples have almost fallen Patan. (23) & (24) Electric cables have to be
into disrepair. Kathmandu is a metropolitan removed before the chariots can negotiate
city, while Patan and Bhaktapur are really the narrow streets, brushing past tall
suburbs. The earthquakes of spring 2015 buildings.
ÀQDOO\GHPROLVKHGDORWRIWKHWUDGLWLRQDO
houses and many temples suffered severe Also in spring is the colourful Holi festival,
damage. (20) Three and a half years one to be wary of perhaps, as multi-
later, some are yet to be restored, even in coloured powder dyes are thrown with
Kathmandu Durbar Square. great abandon. The autumn has its share of
festivals during the main trekking season,
Despite all the massive changes, there with Dasain, the longest celebration, and
remains a strange and addictive magnetism. the more mellow Tihar that follows, offering
For sure the valley has lost much of its visitors two contrasting experiences.
charm, but here and there are quiet corners
where life has changed little since those It’s a shame that so many visitors to
heady days of the 1970s. Around Kathmandu Kathmandu these days have little or no
Durbar Square, and throughout the old time to see the real delights of the valley;
city in barely noticed lanes, a few ancient the temples, monasteries and stupas, the
houses and courtyards remain, enough to bazaars of the old city, the cultural aspects
recapture the atmosphere of days long gone. and the friendly welcoming local people.
The best preserved of the traditional cities For many, the dust, pollution and heaving
is Bhaktapur, where efforts to retain the WUDIÀFKDYHFRORXUHGWKHLULPSUHVVLRQV
original style and atmosphere have endured. Perhaps the city will follow the trend set
(21) Even in Patan Durbar Square it’s easy to in Pokhara, where dusty roads are almost
experience the historic ambience of the city. absent and the Lakeside area is more
However, taking time to absorb the scenes is tourist-friendly. For those who harp back
vital. In the modern world, so little time is to the old Kathmandu that is no more,
given to contemplation. PHPRULHVZLOOKDYHWRVXIÀFH
Apart from the obvious temples and shrines “There’s a green-eyed yellow idol to the north
of the valley, perhaps one of the greatest of Kathmandu…”LVWKHÀUVWOLQHRIDSRHP
attractions to experience today is the plethora by J. Milton Hayes that perhaps captures
of traditional festivals, which occur throughout the ambience of those long gone days. But
the year. Tibetan communities and Buddhists where is that green-eyed yellow idol today?

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Boudha, Kathmandu
+977 1 5171234
©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

A
s with most of the Indian Himalaya Maps
there are always historical notes and
trekking ideas on the reverse side. The
WALK ON THE BARA

.XOOX+LPDODUHDLVRQHRIWKHÀQHVW
and most accessible Himalayan-Alpine
regions in the Indian Himalaya. During a visit to the
SHIGRI GLACIER IN Kullu region a couple of years ago and just out of interest,
I gave the information on my map a quick ‘scan’ and
my eyes were immediately drawn to a familiar name
THE SHADOW OF and old friend from the mid-1960s – Robert Pettigrew.
I was involved in a guide training program based in
the Bara Shigri Glacier basin, an interesting and heavily
ROBERT PETTIGREW glaciated region, an area that I had visited several times
before and one that I knew had a history of British
exploration going back many decades. Due to various
logistical problems my journey was one consisting mainly
&=-%2;%00 of catch up with the main team.
The true left wall on the Bara Shigri Glacier forms the
watershed and great divide between Kullu-Lahul-Spiti
and is the long ridge that keeps the monsoon precipitation
to the west while to the east the mountains remain

dry being in the rain shadow area. Despite
ease of access and excellent mountaineering
opportunities I have yet to encounter any other
teams of mountaineers in the locality.
,Q*HQ&*%UXFHWKHÀUVWPRXQWDLQHHU
to explore this region along with his chief
guide, Heinrich Fuhrer and a Gurkha soldier,
/DO%DKDGXU*XUXQJPDGHWKHÀUVWDVFHQWRI
Hanuman Tibba 5,928m (Soldang Weisshorn)
and then went on to explore both the Indrasan
and Deo Tibba mountains. Col Jimmy Roberts
led an exploratory expedition into the region
in 1939 again in an attempt to climb Indrasan
and Deo Tibba. In 1941 Roberts returned and
succeeded on Dharamsura, now known by its
more popular name White Sail 6,446m. R.C.
Evans attempted Indrasan and Deo Tibba albeit
unsuccessfully in 1952, however, success on
'HR7LEEDÀQDOO\ZHQWWRWKH'XWFKPDQ9DQ
Graaf later in 1952. A few other expeditions
followed into the region between the 1950 and
1960. A British Air Force expedition successfully
climbed Shikar Beh 6,200m in 1955 while in
1962 a Japanese expedition visited the area and
successfully summated the elusive Indrasan. In
1957-58 Major Geoffrey Douglas, accompanied
by the Scottish mountaineer Hamish MacInnes
undertook a Yeti hunting expedition in the Kullu
region. But the persistent and regular activist
in the area for over the next decade was Robert
Pettigrew, now Robert Pettigrew MBE.
In 1912 Gen. C.G. Bruce, the first mountain-
In 1958, Robert G Pettigrew, ‘Bob’, was
staying at a guest-house in Manali owned by eer to explore this region along with his
Major Henry Banon when he developed the idea
of an attempt on the then unclimbed Indrasan
chief guide, Heinrich Fuhrer and a Gurkha
6221m. He had been mulling over the idea of an soldier, Lal Bahadur Gurung made the first
expedition with friends as a result of receiving
information via a letter received on the 28th
ascent of Hanuman Tibba 5,928m.
February 1958 from TS Blakeney (the Alpine
Club Secretary) in response to his request for
suggestions for a suitable expedition region in the 7KHH[SHGLWLRQÀQDOO\VHWRIIIURP0DQDOL In 1958, Robert G Pet-
Himalaya. Blakeney responded by saying ‘You tigrew, ‘Bob’, was
on the 7th May 1958 forging a route up the
staying at a guest-house in
might make a trip from Tos over to Indrasan, Duhangan Nala (river) towards the Chandra Manali owned by
an unclimbed peak and probably harder than 7DO$IWHUWKUHHZHHNVRIGLIÀFXOWURXWHÀQGLQJ Major Henry Banon when
he developed the idea
Deo Tibba’. Blakeney went on to point out the and being buffeted by storms the expedition
of an attempt on the then
advantages of Kullu as a venue for a light-weight decided to return to Manali to take stock. Feeling unclimbed Indrasan
expedition. By the beginning of May 1958 Bob refreshed they set out again on the 8th June and 6221m.
had completed his research on possible objectives; retraced their steps in quick time back to their
he had recruited expedition members and had high camp. Due to time limitations the expedition
embarked on several exploration trips into the decided that Indrasan would have to live to
high valleys of the region. With the help of a local ÀJKWDQRWKHUGD\DQGLQVWHDGWKH\WXUQHGWKHLU
cobbler in Manali adjustments were made to attention to Deo Tibba with the secondary aim
IRRWZHDUWHQWVZHUHPRGLÀHGDQGVOHHSLQJEDJV of reconnoitring the approach route to Indrasan.
sourced, the technical equipment comprised of However Deo Tibba also remained elusive and
items suitable for British winter climbing with with the monsoon weather clouds hovering
the addition of crampons (10-points) and a few ominously over head the expedition headed back
rock pitons, the stage was set. down towards Manali but not without a foray

WALK ON THE BARA SHIGRI GLACIER
The expedition from this onto a small 5334m summit directly south of a job previously undertaken by Jimmy Roberts.
point made good use of
Peak 5229m in close proximity to Duhangan This area is approximately 10 miles to the east
57 ponies, 11 muleteers
and Ladakhi porters Col. The expedition consisted of Bob Pettigrew, of Manali and approached via the Malana Nala
Mike Thomson, Basil Poff, Pat Morrison and and glacier.
Ron Mowll, but by now Bob’s imagination and Initially the expedition believed it would be
love for the region had been ignited. left to its own devices, however, two days before
In 1961 The Derbyshire Himalayan arriving in Bombay by boat a letter arrived
Expedition began to take shape after receiveing informing the expedition that Cpt. Balgit Singh
support from the Duke of Devonshire, as Patron, would be joining the expedition as the Liaison
the Mount Everest Foundation and other notable 2IÀFHUDFRPSOLFDWLRQDQGFRVWWKDWKDGQRW
Derbyshire residents and companies. However, been envisaged during the expedition’s planning
a third of the total expedition costs of £4,500 stage. In 1961 the vehicular road along the Beas
had to be met by the members themselves, J. Valley terminated at Nagar, south of Manali,
Ashcroft, D. Burgess, D. Gray, R. Handley, T and from the crossing of the Beas River progress
Panther, R Pettigrew, S. Read and N Symthe. was only possible on foot or with ponies and
The expedition’s objectives were to `make a mules. The expedition from this point made
useful contribution to the map of the Kullu/ good use of 57 ponies, 11 muleteers and Ladakhi
Bara Shigri Divide, to ascend what is now porters to move the 12 miles onto Manali and
called Gunther’s Col from the Kullu side and then Pettigrew, Read, Handley along with Jimet
ÀQDOO\WRFRPSOHWHDUHFFHRI$OL5DWQL7LEEDD and Zangbo, the local staff went on to make the
splendid granite obelisk, approached from the ÀIWKDVFHQWRI'HR7LEEDRQWKHWK-XQH7KLV
Parbati tributary known as the Malana Nala’, ZDVWKHIXOÀOPHQWRI%RE·VWKUHH\HDUDPELWLRQ

Unfortunately, again, there was no success on

Indrasan where Burgess and Gray reported
that in their opinion the only possible route
from the south was via a diagonal line that was
continually swept by avalanches. By the 9th
July the party had recharged their batteries
at Base Camp and were ready for phase two
of their expedition – to complete a plane-table
survey and a climb of the Bara Shigri / Kullu
Divide via a Col seen by Gunther in 1954 from
the north-eastern side, and to complete a recce
of Ali Ratni Tibba.
Ashcroft and Burgess along with Bob and the
Ladakhis, Jigmet and Ang Chook, ascended the
Malana Glacier. Eventually this team found a
manageable crossing linking the Malana and
7RV1DODVDQGWKXVFRPSOHWHGWKHÀUVWFURVVLQJ
RIZKDWWKH\WKHQFDOOHGDQGLVLGHQWLÀHGRQ
modern maps as Animals Pass 4580m; the name
comes from the animal shaped rocks that stretch
across the col. This passage now represents a
modern three day trek from Manali directly into
The head of the East Tos Glacier provided an
the upper Tos Nala. In 1941 Roberts wrote `the excellent camp site from which the small team
lower four miles of the Tos Glacier constitutes
just about the most boulder-strewn, dirtiest completed the first crossing of the col referred
stretches of glacier I have ever seen’, in my to as point 5410m on the present day map
opinion this could be said about many of the
glaciers in this region! Even Bob described linking the East Tos and the Tichu Glaciers.
the East Tos Glacier as being àrduous and
ugly terrain unrecognisable as ice’ however,
the higher you climb the more traditional and
meagre rations so as to facilitate an attempt on
photographic these glaciers become. The head
White Sail 6446m, the peak climbed in 1941 by
of the East Tos Glacier provided an excellent
Jimmy Roberts and also situated on the Kullu-
camp site from which the small team completed
Kahul-Spiti Divide. Having now become reunited
WKHÀUVWFURVVLQJRIWKHFROUHIHUUHGWRDVSRLQW
with the survey team, Pettigrew, Ashcroft and
5410m on the present day map linking the East
Burgess set off for the Col south of White Sail
Tos and the Tichu Glaciers. On the 13th July
leaving their tent at 3.45am on the 16th July.
the expedition made a short descent into the
Within eight and a half hours the rope of three
upper Tichu Glacial basin and headed towards a
had surmounted steep ice requiring, in those
dip in the northern retaining wall of the glacier
days, step cutting, ascended exposed rock and
believing this to be the potential crossing point
in diminishing visibility and weather conditions
of the Divide leading down onto the Bara Shigri
reached the summit of White Sail (Dharamsura)
*ODFLHUWKHFROÀUVWLGHQWLÀHGE\'U*XQWKHU
6446m, the second ascent of the mountain had
in 1953 from the Bara Shigri side. Locating the
been accomplished.
key passage up a hidden couloir to the skyline,
%REDORQJZLWK%XUJHVVEHFDPHWKHÀUVWSHRSOH Returning to Base Camp the whole expedition
to look down into the Bara Shigri Glacier from met up again to exchange stories, the other
the pass. Bob describes the view down into team consisting of Handley and Gray along
Concordia as having à text book appearance with Wangyal and Zangbo had succeeded in
with lateral moraines being straight from the PDNLQJWZRÀUVWDVFHQWVRISHDNVNQRZQDVWKH
drawing board!’ This ‘text book’ appearance is Manikaren Spires on the east ridge of Ali Ratni
still as much in evidence today as it was back 7LEEDEXWKDGIDLOHGWRÀQGDURXWHWRWKH
in 1961. Pettigrew and Burgess completed the latter before the monsoon arrived and forced
day’s activities by building a cairn right on the them to retreat.
Col before retiring to their camp just west of At the time there was some confusion as to
Col 5410m on the East Tos Glacier. However, the correct location of ‘the Col’ as there are two
during the return journey down into the East possibilities on the main watershed but both
Tos Glacier the team decided to stretch out their SUHVHQWGLIÀFXOWLHV$VWKHRULJLQDOVLJKWLQJ

falls. From May 27th to the 31st Bob and party

crossed the Chandrakhanni Pass in wintery
condition and then the following day made
an ascent of Peak 4426m, the last major peak
on the long southern spur of Indrasan, to the
north of the Chandrakhanni Pass. During the
second world war the Kangra Valley was used to
house Italian POWs and on the ascent of Peak
4426m a carved stone with the inscription JEL
10 1944 was found just below the summit, yet
possibly further evidence of the excursions of
Italian imprisoned climbers during their stay
in the region?
As a result of Bob’s family holidays and his
exploratory trips into the Solang valley in 1962
KHZDVÀUHGXSDQGUHDG\IRUPRUHDGYHQWXUHV
An opportunity presented itself in the autumn
of 1963 when Bob Menzies, a friend of Bob’s
was visiting India on business and suggested
that he could spare a few weeks climbing in the
Kullu. The stage was set and after the usual
preparations and packing sessions based in the
Banon’s guest house in Manali the team set off in
the direction of the Solang Valley. The following
two weeks saw exploration of the upper Solang
Valley and after several nights with recorded
20° F temperatures Bob along with Wangyal
FRPSOHWHGWKHÀUVWDVFHQWRI/DGDNKL3HDNP
The Sara Umgla La had long been used as
an old trading route when the conditions were
right. The Rajput warrior chieftains of the
17th century brought an end to the Tibetan
occupation of Kullu, however, enforcing
vigorously levied taxes forced the local traders
WRÀQGZD\VURXQGWKHFXVWRPVKRXVHV7KHROG
The Rajput warrior chief- by Gunther was from the north-east and Bob’s route, and Custom House, crossing the Rothang
tains of the 17th century
expedition was approaching from the south-west La was now an expensive option so a new route
brought an end to the
Tibetan occupation of Kullu joining up the dots was always going to prove across the Kullu-Lahul-Spiti watershed was
problematical, one crossing, it was reported, urgently required; the Sara Umgla La was open
SUHVHQWHGVHULRXVGLIÀFXOWLHVWRWKHHDVWHUQVLGH for trade! Bob’s next expedition was to locate
ZKLOHWKHRWKHUGLIÀFXOWLHVWRWKHZHVWHUQVLGH and cross this pass. The expedition set out from
In the end one Col was given the inscription Manali heading for the now familiar Malana
Gunther’s Col while the other DHE (Derbyshire Nala. Bob intended to use this expedition in
Himalayan Expedition) Ice Col the latter to the a bid to complete a reconnaissance of Papsura
east of the former named col. However on the 6451m. The approach was long and arduous
Indian Himalaya Map in use today Gunther’s Col but coincided with the twelfth anniversary of
is shown as being at 5399m and is located as the WKHÀUVWDVFHQWRI(YHUHVWDQGVRLWZDVGHFLGHG
ÀUVWSRLQWRIZHDNQHVVWRWKHZHVWRI&DWKHGUDO WKDWDÀUVWDVFHQWRIDYLUJLQSHDNZRXOGVHUYH
Peak 6250m, the Ice Col does not appear on the as an appropriate celebration. An objective was
map by name. located that met all the requirement and on the
During 1962 and 1963 Bob visited Manali 29th May 1965 Bob along with Langford, and
on family holidays but never wishing to miss his trusted Ladakhi staff Wangyal and Zangbo
an opportunity took a few days out to continue FRPSOHWHGWKHÀUVWDVFHQWRI5DPFKXNRU3HDN
his exploration of the greater area. He trekked 5189m situated immediately south of Animals
into the Solang Nala, to the north of Manali, Pass in the east retaining wall of the Ali Ratni
and then back into the Malana Nala valley to Tibba Glacier, now referred to as the Dudhon
the east, but in general, his forays were beaten Glacier. Relocating Camp 1 on the Pass of
by the inclement weather and frequent snow the Animals the expedition was easily able to

Once on the La the expedition was subjected to gale 86%:)08-47

force winds that at their height split one of the tents
down the side seam. The resourceful Ladakhi crew
then proceeded to mend the split while battling to
hold the canvas together so it could be sewn.
identify the Sara Umgla La. By the route chosen by the recce team took
3rd June the expedition was again in the expedition across the upper slopes
forward motion. Aiming diagonally of the eastern ridge before heading
across the Tos Glacier they made for diagonally westwards and up the
an obvious couloir and steep rock rib south face of Hanuman Tibba towards
that would give access to the pass and the summit. It was just as the lead
eventually connect the Tos and East climbers were approximately 160m
Tos Glaciers to the Chandra River below the summit that the ‘CRACK’
valley immediately to the west of the was heard accompanied by a dull roar
outfall of the Bara Shigri Glacier. Once and the breaking away of a big slab-
on the La the expedition was subjected avalanche. The climbers were engulfed
to gale force winds that at their height and carried 160m down the slope to
split one of the tents down the side where they eventually slowed to a
seam. The resourceful Ladakhi crew halt just above one of the many lower Location:9XXEVEOLERHRSVXLIVR-RHME
then proceeded to mend the split while LFHFOLIIVRYHUZKLFKWKHPDLQÁRZRI Population:
battling to hold the canvas together snow and ice was passing. Shaken but Time zone:+18
so it could be sewn. On the 8th June otherwise unhurt the party reassessed Money: -RHMER6YTII-26
the expedition, now a light weight their choice of route in consideration Visas:&VMXMWLZMWMXSVWRIIHEXSYVMWXZMWE
reconnaissance team, set off for a of the 160m of avalanche prone slope When to go:1EVGLXSIEVP]1E]
closer inspection of Papsura 6451m that still remained, so far intact, above
the break-off point. Crossing the debris
from the south and western aspects.
the climbers retraced their steps back
The north west ridge, the west face
to the East Ridge where they then
and the south ridge of Papsura were
pitched the remaining shoulder to WHAT TO PACK
all carefully scrutinised but the team (YVMRKXLIWYQQIV
the summit acutely aware of the poor
failed to identify a safe and feasible QSRXLWPMKLX[SSPIRWEVI
snow conditions and the unstable VIUYMVIH(YVMRK[MRXIV
URXWHWKURXJKWKHGLIÀFXOWLHVWRWKH XIQTIVEXYVIWWSQIXMQIW
cornice overhanging the precipitous
summit. The expedition concluded VIEGLQMRYWȾ'
north face and the lack of adherence
their reconnaissance of the region
of snow on the south face. After six
by including the circumnavigation GETTING THERE
hours from leaving BC the team 0SRHSR,IEXLVS[HMVIGX
of Ali Ratni Tibba via its east and ƽMKLXXS(IPLM[MXLQYPXMTPI
UHDFKHGWKHVXPPLWÀUVWVWRRGXSRQ
west glaciers and then making the GEVVMIVW8LIƽMKLXXEOIW
by General Bruce and his Swiss guide EVSYRHLSYVWERHWXEVXW
ÀUVWFURVVLQJRIWKH3DVVRIWKH2EOLVN
Heinrich Fuhrer from Meiringen. They JVSQEFSYXeMRLMKL
4876m before heading down into the WIEWSR4VMGIWHVSTMRPS[
had ascended initially from the north WIEWSn.
Parbati Valley at Jara on the 17th June.
and the Salong valley before crossing
In the spring of 1966 Bob was Bruce’s Col, now called the Solang La
GETTING AROUND
back in Manali leading an Indo- and traversing the west face and then %WLSVXHSQIWXMGƽMKLX
British expedition to Hanuman Tibba ÀQDOO\FOLPELQJWKH6RXWK5LGJHWRWKH JVSQ(IPLMXS/YPPYXLIR
HVMZIXS0ELEYP7TMXM8LIVI
organised by the Bombay Climbers’ summit. Bob’s party descended through EVIRYQIVSYWREXMSREPFYW
Club. The approach route was WKHLFHFOLIIVDQGÀQDOO\JOLVVDGHGEDFN WIVZMGIWGSRRIGXMRK0ELEYP
7TMXM[MXLEPPQENSVGMXMIW
laborious traversing steep hill sides into Camp 2 by 1530hrs. While the main MR-RHME
of thick birch forests and steep and expedition was on Hanuman Tibba two
exposed sections of rock cliffs. To avoid of the base camp staff Nadkarni and USEFUL LINKS
WKHGLIÀFXOWLHVRIWKHORZHU0DQDOVX &KHULQJ1DPJ\DOFRPSOHWHGWKHÀUVW [[[KSZYOJSVIMKRXVEZIP
Nala the expedition climbed high on EHZMGIMRHME
ascent of Peak 5303m via the South
WKHÁDQNVRI.KDQDSDUDWUDYHUVLQJ East Ridge immediately due west of
above the nala before descending Seri to the south of the Manali Pass.
back into the mid nala basin. The Finally on the 5th June Bob together

The team was then

bogged down by a
severe snow storm that
deposited enough snow
over the next six days to
bury the tents
with Warhurst and Chering Namgyal

PDGHWKHÀUVWDVFHQWRI6KDNXQWOD7LEED
4954m. And so the season drew to a close
with expedition members gathering in the
Banon’s guest house on the 7th June before
ÀQDOO\GHSDUWLQJWKH.XOOX
Looking into the Chhola in the 1967
season got off to a rocky start during an
attempt on Papsura 6451m, the Peak of
Evil, and ‘twin’ peak of Dharmsura (White
Sail). On the 1st June Colin Pritchard,
Mike Payne and Bob took a 500m fall
down Avalanche Couloir, Hill and Payne
escaped relatively un-harmed while
Bob suffered a dislocated hip. Papasura
is the third highest peak in the Kullu/
Lahul divide. The expedition started on
the 4th May from the Parbati River, BC
was established near the snout of the
Malana Glacier, a site previously used by
Bob and his trusted staff. The next two
weeks were taken up ferrying loads across
the Pass of the Animals the expedition
was beset by bad weather. Camp 1 was
eventually established in the cwm to the
west of Papsura on the 22nd May but
only after Pritchard had taken a fall into
a large crevasse when a bridge collapsed.
The team was then bogged down by a
severe snow storm that deposited enough
snow over the next six days to bury the
WHQWV$PURSHZDVÀ[HGWRWKHIRRW
of Avalanche Couloir the chosen route
for the ascent. On the 31st May, nearing
the top of the couloir it became obvious
that the way was blocked by a big boss of
ice, the only option left was to descend,
always easier said than done. No sooner
had the team started their retreat than
they were struck by a small side avalanche
that quickly gathered speed and strength

pulling all three roped climbers off their feet. the pair climbed quickly reaching the top of
Their downward momentum came abruptly to the western couloir of the south face by 10am.
DKDOWDWWKHEHUJVKXQG0LNH3D\QHKDG¶ÁRZQ· Whilst preparing to cross the heavily corniced
across the shund but had in the process twisted couloir the rucksacks were tied into the rope
his arm, Bob came to rest straddling the lower to be lowered into an icy basin, unfortunately
lip of the shund with his legs bound together the knot slipped and the sacks with all spare
in the climbing rope and Colin Pritchard, well clothing, food and cameras fell nearly 1,000m
Colin might well have acted as a sea anchor down to the base of the face. Both climbers
and could have been the reason why the party agreed to push on, although the climbing was
fell no further, he was in the depths of the straight forward it required a bit of ‘grunt’
bergshund being strangled by his rucksack with strenuous moves on the rock band and
straps and acting as the ‘team anchor’! It turned the summit snow ridge. By 14.30 hours the
out that Bob had dislocated his hip and had to be pair were on the top. During the descent Hill
evacuated the next day to a safe location. Half slipped twice while cutting steps on the steep
the party descended to let wives and family know hard ice in the rapidly deteriorating weather
the situation and at the same time to arrange and heavily falling snow. By the time they had
for a rescue party to ascend to Camp 1. reached the less steep part of the lower couloir
Meanwhile back at Camp 1 the remaining the snow was waist deep. The pair returned to
¶ÀW· WHDP PHPEHUV HOHFWHG WR KDYH RQH ODVW Bob, still awaiting rescue in Camp 1, nearly
attempt at the peak with Hill and Pritchard 21 hours after departing camp that morning.
going for a New Zealand style dash. Their Once the rescue team had arrived the
proposed route was up the main South Face return trip to BC, with a laden stretcher, took
Couloir that had previously been discarded four days crossing the Animals Pass and the
because of the objective danger from the large Tos Glacier before climbing over the Chandar
amount of snow and ice suspended higher on Khanni Pass and down into the Kullu Valley
the face. This danger was ultimately reduced XVLQJÀ[HGURSHVLQWKHLFHIDOO([SHGLWLRQZDV
as a result of following a mixed snow and rock made up of John Ashburner, Charles Henty,
rib situated to one side of the couloir and out Geoff Hill, Mike Payne, Bob Pettigrew (leader),
of the main fall line. Leaving camp at 3.15am Colin Pritchard, supported by the high altitude

porters, Sonam Wangyal and Pasang Lakpha, might manage the journey within the day
local boys came from Malana and Manali to help but that was not to be the case. Thankfully
with logistics and the rescue stretcher team. Jayant realised that I was neither his age nor
This little epic brought a golden decade of DWKLVOHYHORIÀWQHVVDQGZLWKLQDQKRXURI
exploration of the Kullu region to a close for my thinking that this was all a bad idea, I
Bob. But that is not the end of his story, for crested a moraine ridge to be greeted by my
the next thirteen years he focused on alpinism, grinning minder who suggested we bivied on
instructing, and serving in the RAF Mountain WKHUHODWLYHO\ÁDWJUDVV\SODWHDXLQDPRQJVW
Rescue Team where he went onto completing the boulders that I had just arrived at. The food
ÀUVWDVFHQWVLQ$UFWLF1RUZD\/DWHUKHGHFLGHG that I had set out with was still festering in the
to further his education and secured a place WRSRIP\UXFNVDFNDQGWKDWZDVVXIÀFLHQWIRU
at Loughborough University as a student, the evening meal and stretched out a bit, for
eventually following in John Disley’s footsteps breakfast as well. After a few hours rest the
as President of the Loughborough University dawn seemed to come quickly, although the
Mountaineering Club. However, the wilds of warmth of the sun would only arrive much
Kullu eventually got back into his system and later. The second part of the moraine journey
in 1980 he returned to Manali where he has starts to lose its steepness the moraines
consistently, over the subsequent three and a continue on for another 4 kilometres before
half decades, continued with his forays into the LWLVSRVVLEOHWRGHVFHQGRQWRWKHÁDWWLVKLFH
hills and valleys of Himachal Pradesh. normally associated with glacial travel. In the
distance the collection of tents indicating the
Back to my, by now, solitary wanderings up
HQGRIWKDWSDUWRIP\MRXUQH\DQGP\ÀUVW
the Bara Shigri moraines, trying to pick out
introduction to the Kullu – Lahul mountains
WKHQHZO\HUHFWHGFDLUQVFDUHIXOO\FDPRXÁDJHG
much loved and traversed by Bob.
amongst the glacial rubble and at the same time
trying to spot the blurred silhouette of Jayant, I have now completed this moraine trek four
my companion, breaking the skyline many times and it never gets any easier either in ascent
hundreds of metres in front of me. The ascent or descent. However the mountains at the end of
seemed never ending and I took frequent stops the trudge are worth every aching moment and
to catch my breath under the guise of taking every word uttered under the breath.
photographs. It had been suggested that I Bob, you have another convert!

At Conveniently located on Pokhara’s prominent place “Lakeside”, Hotel Barahi boasts some
stunning views of the Annapurna & Machapuchare Himalayans, Phewa Lake as well as easy
access to the thriving lake street.
Hotel Address Kathmandu Reservation Office

Barahi path, Lakeside Kathmandu 211Bhupi Road,
Pokhara-6 Naxal, Nepal
061-460617, 463526 01-4411113, 4429820
info@barahi.com, cityoffice@barahi.com www.barahi.com
TEAM
YAK
ATTACK THE TEAM
Christian and Craige Tabor-Raeside

'ETIXSRMERƼVWXXMQIVWXS2ITEPƼXERHVIEH]JSV
XVIOOMRKPMOIWQSXSVFMOIWMQTSVXWJYVRMXYVIPSZIW
T
QSYRXEMRW
here was a yeti attack at the top of the hill. It was Marsha Alexanderson
'IVXMƼIH)UYMRIFSH][SVOIVERH)UYMRI
a dark day in November, the clouds had come early 1]SJEWGMEP6IPIEWI8LIVETMWXRSXEƼVWXXMQI
that day as the monsoon had come late that year. ZMWMXSVQSXLIVSJXLIXIEQ
There were seven people looking for shelter, but Sebastian Alexanderson
only four of them could see because of the yak dung 8MQIZIXIVERXS2ITEPWXZMWMXHYVMRK
1ESMWX6IZSPYXMSRYRSƾGMEPGLIIVPIEHIVERHXIEQ
in their eyes...” This is the answer one of the team members QSXMZEXSVJIIPW2ITEPMWEWTMVMXYEPNSYVRI][LIVI
gave when asked to tell the story of Team Yak Attack’s epic LIGSQIWJSVGLERKI[LIVILITYVTSWIJYPP]
adventure in Nepal, November 2018. WTIRHWXMQIMRXIRXMSREPMWMRKLMWFIMRKMRXSXLI
[SVPH
It is said that once Nepal creeps into your heart, you will
Dad Sven Alexanderson
either end up incessantly traveling here or living here for an 0MZIWMR'EREHEGSRJIWWIWLIHMHRƅXTVITEVIEW
extended period of time. In this case, Sebastian fell in love with QYGLEWLIWLSYPHLEZIJSVXLIQSYRXEMRWPSZIW
the Himalayas and comes trekking each time where he enjoys XIPPMRKWXSVMIWERHPIEVRXMR2ITEPXLEXLSX6YQ
TYRGLMWKSSHJSVLIEPXL
challenging himself mentally and physically. This time around,
Sweethearts Michael Mearns and Nicola
he extended an invitation for adventure in the most magical 0MZIMR7GSXPERHXVIOOMRKJSVGLEVMX]LXXTW[[[
SODFHRQWKHSODQHWWRDQ\RQHKHNQRZVUHJDUGOHVVRIÀWQHVV GVS[HJYRHIVGSYOQMGOERHGPEMVWGLEVMX]XVIO
level or age. The people who were ready for change, adventure IRNS]WWIVIREHMRKXIEQQIQFIVW
Dad Ivor King 4VSYHSJLMWHEYKLXIV1EVWLE
JIIPMRKVIEH]JSVXLIQSYRXEMRWMRLMWPEXIƅW

and a different way of living. His wife and 6
8 team members
FACTS
others heed the call. He gives the following tips
to ponder and prepare:
• The mountains have a plan for everyone.
• Come for the mountains, for yourself and 30 kg 4 Porters 2 Passes
not anything else. Luggage carried
• The group is merely there for moral per porter
support. 1 Fractured
• Prepare for one of the most rigorous 14 days trekking finger a week
mental challenges in their life.
1 Guide
before the trek
Sebastian reckons that climbing a starts
mountain is like being on a diet; it is 70% in 2 Female
your head. team members 1 Helicopter trip
The team arrives from their various starting
destination to the Kathmandu Guesthouse.
6RPHVWDUWWKHÀUVWPRUQLQJRIWKHLUKROLGD\
with deep tissue massages at a local spa. They they meet their guide, Subas Magar, from the
love good food and drinks and can be seen tasting lower Everest region. He gives the necessary
their way through the restaurants in town. VDIHW\EULHÀQJUHYLHZVJHDUOLVWDQGFRQÀUPV
Rumours of a night time rickshaw adventure the planned itinerary. Some alternative options
after a particular night of margharitas and sizzling are discussed for in case things go wrong in the
chocolate brownies with ice cream do the rounds. mountains. He takes his job and the safety
The rest of their time in the capital, Kathmandu of the team very seriously. He has completed
is spent buying last-minute trekking supplies and four marathons this year alone and believes in
comfort food to enjoy somewhere when nothing else leading a healthy lifestyle where you spend more
gets them motivated to keep walking. time outdoors than indoors.
Due to the diversity of the group, the team get The team need to catch an early, but like
a local travel agency to organize a guide, porters, RIWHQEHIRUHWKHÁLJKWVDUHGHOD\HG7RGD\
accommodation and some activities during their around 5 hours. Lukla airport (2860m) has
holiday. Things get a bit more serious when volatile weather conditions that can dramatically

TEAM YAK ATTACK
Lodge at 2610m. Here they enjoy dinner, get
LQVWUXFWLRQVDQGDEULHÀQJDERXWWKHVFKHGXOH
for the following day and get into bed early.
The team are in good spirits. Their long-
planned holiday is underway and they get to
be immersed in these giants amongst mountain
that span across 5 countries: The Himalayas.
Eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks are found in
Nepal. For the next 2 weeks, they will eat, sleep
and breathe the mountains. It is a humbling
experience. Many countries have, snow-capped
mountains, but these ones are different. They
are spiritual. They have an effect on you that is
GLIÀFXOWWRSXWLQWRZRUGVDQGEHVWH[SHULHQFHG
for one self.
The Himalayas are not to be underestimated.
Conditions can change suddenly and it is near
impossible to predict what effect the combination
of high altitude, extreme cold and long hours of
physical exertion can have on the human body.
One early morning en-route, the temperature
dropped down to -18 C and in those moments
you are glad you prepared well and brought
that extra jacket, beanie and pair of gloves.The
extreme wind and cold as the team experienced
in November is very out of place for that time
of year . After dinner and mostly hot showers,
long discussions around teahouse tables keep
steering towards climate change as culprit for
the extreme weather. They compare pictures
of a mere two years ago when some of the team
members trekked in the same region and one can
see some of the glaciers have rapidly receded.
Two major factors to consider for safety are
the weather and your own health. Two team
members experienced a little misfortune before
embarking on their journey. One had minor
back surgery less than two months before his
KROLGD\DQGDQRWKHUIUDFWXUHGKHUÀQJHUOHVV
WKDQ D ZHHN EHIRUH KHU ÁLJKW 7UHNNLQJ DW
altitude causes Acute Mountain Sickness or
Altitude Sickness in a large majority of trekkers.
Signs and symptoms experienced may include:
Irritability, vomiting, headaches, no appetite
and confusion. It is good to be aware of possible
dangers and prepared for anything. People might
experience and increased effort of breathing
even from an elevation of 2500m. There is less
change within minutes. The short but scenic 25 oxygen available in the air and the air pressure is
PLQXWHÁLJKWJRHVVPRRWKO\ZKHQLWHYHQWXDOO\ suddenly very different. Sebastian encourages
goes. Lukla Airport is a quaint airport nestled people to go trekking anyway. Knowing who will
in the mountains. Bags are collected, last be affected by Mountain Sickness is impossible.
trekking permits obtained and they’re off to The most important thing is to be prepared and
try beat the sunset to Phakding. Part of the deal the important part is that you go.
with the travel agency was to put some mystery The next morning after breakfast, the
and surprises into their trip, so as reward for porters take the luggage and comrades armed
ÀQLVKLQJ D GD\·V WUHN WKH\ ÀQG RXW ZKHUH with daypacks, sunscreen, water and walking
they stay. They are treated to a new Sherpa sticks are off. The day includes crossing rivers

TEAM YAK ATTACK
using long metal swing bridges, getting out

of the way of yaks carrying heavy loads and
majestic mountain views. In the lower Everest
A helicopter is organized for the dads from
region and probably any trekking area, it Namche Bazaar, one is dropped in Gokyo
is not advised to measure a day’s route in
distance, but rather to take average walking where he checks into the wrong hotel. The ice
time and altitude into consideration to see how
challenging the day would be. Most trekkers
on the insides of the windows and the white
do a day of acclimatization at Namche Bazaar mist hanging in the middle of the room
(3440m) which is a surprisingly big town keeping
in mind it’s location. It is colourful, bustling with
cafe’s serving apple pie and other baked treats WKHQH[WIHZGD\V,WLVFROGDQGGLIÀFXOW0RUH
and has a very wide variety of accommodation people are getting sick. Some need to reroute
options from teahouses to 5 star Luxury Hotels. and descend to get rid of their headaches and
On their rest day, many explorers opt for a V\PSWRPV7KHJURXSÀQGWKHPVHOYHVVSOLWLQWR
daytrip to gain a bit of altitude and sleep lower three parts at three different locations. As the
again. One of the team members is not hungry group found out, having a support team is vital
and has been having headaches and an upset for staying safe and giving support when things
stomach. He has a very long sleep and opts to not don’t go according to plan.
continue the trek the next morning. With a little A helicopter is organized for the dads from
push from the hotel owner and travel agents, he Namche Bazaar, one is dropped in Gokyo
ends up seeing a doctor and hibernating for two where he checks into the wrong hotel. The ice
more days before he feels up for getting outside on the insides of the windows and the white
and doing short walks again. The other dad mist hanging in the middle of the room after
stays too and does some day trips, using Namche he exhales, make him question what he is
Bazaar as base. He goes on solo treks and enjoys doing in sub-zero conditions at an altitude of
hot apple pie in exotic location and returns to 4750 m. He remembers that he is waiting for
the comfort of his warm hotel room every night. his daughter and his team. He makes his way
The rest of the group with their guide and to the right hotel with a bed-heater and no
porters keep their goal in mind to cross both the frost and remembers he is in one of the most
Cho-la (5420 m) and Renjo La (5360 m) passes in magical and testing places in the world. The other

TEAM YAK ATTACK
the everyday distractions and responsibilities

has a way of getting your focus back on yourself.
There is a lot of time for self-evaluation and
for silence. Trekking can be seen as a form
of movement meditation. One comes back
refreshed, proud of your achievements and
impressed with human resilience. You are bound
to meet some locals on the way, get inspired by
their simplistic way of life and you hopefully stop
often in awe of nature and thankful to be alive.
Along the way, the lifestyle of the hardy but
happy Sherpa mountain people can be observed,
Buddhist monasteries seen and porters carrying
food and supplies up to more remote villages or
teahouses can be marvelled at. Mountain life
has a pace and way of it’s own. You see people
walking in mountains for a living and you may
TXHVWLRQZKDW\RXDUHGRLQJLQDQRIÀFHEXW
UHPLQG\RXUVHOIWKDWWKHRIÀFHRUZRUNPDNHV
holidays like these possible and your money
might make these people’s lives a bit easier.
After successfully completing their trek,
the last night is spent back in Namche Bazaar,
celebrating in 5 star Luxury When they arrive at
WKHKRWHOWKHUHLVQRZLÀRUKRWZDWHULQLWLDOO\
It reminds them they are in the Himalayas and
that solar power is fueled by the sun and not
the amount of stars a hotel holds. Celebratory
drinks soon warm them up from inside and all
LVZHOO*LYLQJWKHPWLPHWRUHÁHFWRQWKHLU
adventure, but a slight anticlimax, the next
morning is spent waiting at the airport again,
going from Lukla to Kathmandu and later from
Kathmandu to Pokhara.
From the comfort of their hotel and after
stretching their legs slowly around the peaceful
GDGLVGURSSHGLQ/XNOD)URP/XNODKHÁLHVWR Fewa Lake, the mountains, snow and sore bodies
Kathmandu where he is welcomed with warmer seem to be a distant memory. The next morning,
weather and easier conditions to breathe in (sans well-deserved massages are enjoyed at Yes,
the dust). Helping Hands Spa where only blind massage
The other 6 team members are still pushing therapists and staff members are employed. The
on. After leaving Dingboche, Pangboche and team relaxes, unwinds. Some enjoy lake cruises
Zongla behind, they all arrive in Gokyo. They where someone else does the paddling and the
are happy to be safely re-united and gain a new UHVWKDYHVRPHFUD]\]LSOLQHDQG5R\DO(QÀHOG
humbleness and gratitude. “The choices we adventures in the next few days. Nepal is slowly
make lead up to actual experiences. It is one becoming one of the top adventure destinations
thing to decide to climb a mountain. It is quite globally and it’s easy to see why.
another to be on top of it.” Herbert A. Simon 2QDVNHGDERXWVRPHÀQDOWKRXJKWVDERXW
. One pass down and one to go. Breathtaking this inspiring and breathtaking country, the
views make the burn of cold morning mountain response is this: “The Himalayas are the
air in your lungs bearable and Dal Baht (lentils bringers of life; their presence is the catalyst
and rice) gives you all the power you need to for change as the monsoon condenses before
take that next step. them in order to bring life to the world. If you
In the mountains, you are at the mercy of come here and can allow yourself to be swept
nature and the strength of your mind, body and DZD\E\WKHPRQVRRQZLQGVWRWDNHWKHÀUVW
spirit. Walking for many hours a day, away from step, then you to will feel the change”

TIGER
ADOPTION
ADMIRE HER.
PROTECT HER.
ADOPT HER.
With numbers reaching a critical level, there has never been a more important time to adopt a tiger.
Right now, there are as few as 3,200 tigers left For as little as £3 a month, you’ll get an adoption
in the wild. Poaching and habitat loss have pack, a gorgeous cuddly toy and regular updates from
pushed them to the very brink of extinction in people working on the frontline of tiger conservation.
many parts of Asia – and they urgently need
What’s more, you’ll also have the satisfaction of
our help if they are to survive.
knowing you’re helping us protect vital habitat, train
By adopting a tiger today, you’ll help protect this and support anti-poaching patrols – and keep tigers
endangered species. safe for generations to come.
from just
Adopt a tiger today by filling in the form
+ + = £3 a
month
below, visiting supporttigers.com
a gorgeous
tiger toy
an adoption pack regular updates
from the field
or calling 0845 126 8073
YES, I WOULD LIKE TO ADOPT A TIGER DIRECT DEBIT – WWF-UK

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Address:_______________________________________________________________
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2. Name(s) of account holder(s)
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Tel no: __________________________ Date of birth: ______________ 3. Branch sort code - -
Gift recipient details (if applicable) 4. Bank or Building Society account number
Tick this box if your adoption is a gift, then complete the details of the recipient below 5. WWF-UK Reference Number (Office use only)
Title:_________ Initial:_________ Surname: ___________________________________

6. Instructions to your Bank or Building Society
Address:________________________________________________________________
Please pay WWF- UK Direct Debits from the account detailed on the instruction subject to the safeguards
_________________________________________ Postcode: _____________________ assured by the Direct Debit guarantee. I understand that this instruction may remain with WWF- UK and, if so,
details will be passed electronically to my Bank/Building Society. Banks and Building Societies may not accept
Tel no: __________________________ Date of birth: ______________ Direct Debit Instruction for some types of account.
Would you like us to send the adoption pack directly to the recipient?
Yes No Signature(s):
WWF-UK would really like to keep in touch but please tick this box Your money will support our work to help save the tiger as well as
if you’d rather we didn’t other vital conservation projects.
Please return in an envelope to: Adopt a Tiger, WWF-UK, FREEPOST (KE4714), Panda House, Godalming, Surrey, GU7 1BR
WWF-UK, charity registered in England number 1081247 and in Scotland number SC039593. AJH001016 Photo: © nature.pl/Francois Savigny/WWF
HOTEL
YAK & YETI

T
KHÀUVWWKLQJWKDWVWULNHVPHDV,
reach the hotel’s main entrance is Yak & Yeti Hotel has a colourful history
the towering water fountain where
some birds are drinking water. including the palace theatre of the
They sit there, looking blissfully
unaware of the fact that they are in the middle of
luxurious Rana period called Lal Durbar, the
a big, busy city. From there my gaze rests upon a “Red Palace” which was completed in 1885.
ODUJHRUQDWHO\FDUYHGZRRGHQGRRUWKDWLVÀWIRU
a museum or art gallery. When you step inside,
you might as well be in a different world. The exchange small talk and they tell me that they
space is abuzz with activity: porters whizzing were staying at Yak & Yeti for a few days to
about, smiling faces, sparkling floors and attend an international conference held at the
numerous artworks. A young woman dressed in hotel. This answers the question of whether
a beautiful traditional dress and golden earrings the hotel is focusing on meetings, incentives,
extends a hearty welcome. On the far side of the conferences and exhibitions (MICE) Tourism.
lobby, there are scores of windows letting in light On a last look outside the windows, with the
and the view of an alluring, lush garden. The sunset magnifying the garden’s colours, I see
Piano Bar has drinks on offer, guests sit around one elderly guest having a loud nasal afternoon
and reading the paper or share stories of their nap just there in his chair. Everyone is feeling
day while enjoying the atmosphere. at home here.
On one side of the reception desk, a man and Yak & Yeti Hotel has a colourful history
a woman are speaking with an accent which is including the palace theatre of the luxurious
unmistakably South African. Not being able Rana period called Lal Durbar, the “Red
to curb my curiosity, I walk up to them and Palace” which was completed in 1885. Marble
DVNZKHUHWKH\·UHIURP7KHZRPDQFRQÀUPV was shipped from Italy as well as mirrors and
my suspicion and tells that they are from chandeliers from across Europe to decorate
Johannesburg. I knew it. My country. We this place of royalty. In the year 1944, an

HOTEL YAK & YETI

HOTEL YAK & YETI
270 5 - star rooms

6 Function halls
3 Restaurants
1 Swimming pool and a casino
interesting Russian man working in Calcutta met

the Nepali king of the time, King Tribhuvan. In
future, because of this meeting, major changes to
the regulations around tourism into Nepal would
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over the world. This chef/ former ballet dancer/
Russian army deserter, Boris Lissanevitch, opened
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years later in the early 1950’s. Back then, Yak &
Yeti was only the name of the restaurant and bar
of the hotel. Finally, in 1977 with 120 brand new
rooms, Yak & Yeti Hotel was ready for business.
Currently, the hotel offers 270 5-star rooms, six
function halls, three restaurants, one swimming
pool and a casino. A lot has happened on these
grounds, a lot of changes have taken place and
many exciting ones are yet to be revealed.
Yak & Yeti has been doing a few things
differently. The whole hotel will be renovated and
getting a facelift in the coming time. The doors
of The Chimney Restaurant have been re-opened
in October 2018 after renovations and is offering
beautiful new outdoor seating. A few popular dishes
from the original Russian’s hotel menu have been
kept. The Sunrise Restaurant will become an
interactive kitchen. Another innovation is the
area on the Eastern edge of the garden that will
be allocated for a tranquil yoga and meditation
space so that guests get more than just a bed and
food. Furthermore, the hotel is offering Singing
Bowl Therapy sessions every Tuesday and Friday,
a popular new happening among guests. In future,
the hotel will place more emphasis on corporate and
international events that attracts groups. Medical
tourism might even be an option for the future.
Yak & Yeti wants to create awareness about
new destinations around Nepal, the experiences
visitors have had and especially the stories of the
people. They want to continue to be market leaders in
innovation. They want the hotel to be a place where
guests keep returning to and hope to offer them
something new and exciting each time they visit.
This hotel is not at all just any old hotel. Surendra
Thakuri (Director of Marketing and sales) puts it best
: “We are not afraid of change. Everything changes
here. We try to challenge the status quo. If you
are not doing that, you are not moving forward.”

HOTEL YAK & YETI
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KVIEX GSRXVMFYXMSR F] GSPPIGXMRK HEXE MRXLIWIMRHYWXVMIWXSKIXMRZSPZIHMRXLI Director - Sales & Marketing at
XSFIYWIHEXTVIWIRXERHRSXSRP]MR :MWMX2ITEP-RMXMEXMZI,MWVIUYIWX Hotel Yak & Yeti
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“talk of more
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chains opening
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Kathmandu in
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H O T E L C O UN TR Y V I L L A
Hotel Country Villa Kathmandu Reservation Office

Nagarkot, Nepal Diyali Marg, Lazimpat, Kathmandu
Tel: +977 1 6680127/28 Tel: +977 1 4006612/13
FHotel Country Villa Email: reservation@hotelcountryvilla.com
www.hotelcountryvilla.com
AMERICAN
BECOMES WORLD’S
OLDEST ZIPLINER
IN NEPAL
&=(6.%20&)%()678%(8
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or some retirees, it means staying home and playing
cards. But for June Scott of Tawas City, Michigan,
it means becoming the world’s oldest person to ride
the zip-line in Pokhara.
Scott, who turne 94 on February 7, set the record on
Thursday, January 24 when she secured herself in the chair
and rode the two minute ride 1.8 km from Sarangkot Hill in
Pokhara.
So why the zipline? “It was something to do,” she replied
with a grin. “Anyone who wants a thrill should go ahead.”
Scott was the oldest of 24 senior citizens who came on
WKHÀUVWVHQLRUEXVWRXUWR1HSDOLQODWH-DQXDU\7KHWULS
was sponsored by Sunrise Side Lifelong Learning (SSLL) of
Tawas, Michigan and was coordinated by Trekking Mart of
Kathmandu.
Around the world, senior citizens often take such tours,
EXWWKLVZDVWKHÀUVWWLPHDVHQLRUEXVWRXUZDVFRRUGLQDWHG
in Nepal. They came in January as it is a good time to escape
the frigid temperatures of the northern United States.
“It was a long ride (on the plane), noted Scott. The group
which is primarily from the greater Tawas area in northeastern
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Seoul, South Korea where they had an eight hour layover. From
there, they arrived on Saturday, January 19 in Kathmandu.
The bus tour followed the traditional tourist routes in the
FRXQWU\7KHZHQWWR3DWDQDQG%RXGKLQDWKRQWKHÀUVWGD\DQG
then it was off to Chitwan National Park for a safari adventure.
All 24 members of the group went on the elephant ride in
VSLWHRIGHDOLQJZLWKDUWLÀFLDONQHHVDQGKLSV6FRWWDOVRZHQW
on the elephant ride. “It was fun”. She and the group saw an
Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros plus a lot of deer. Later they
went on the canoe trip down the Rapti River. She said they
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concrete as they didn’t move.

WORLD’S OLDEST ZIPLINER IN NEPAL
After Chitwan, they group traveled by bus to 6RZK\GLGVKHFRPHWR1HSDOIRUWKHÀUVW

Pokhara. Tuesday night it began to rain and by time at the age of 93? “It was available,” said
Thursday morning, the skies had cleared over June. This was her third trip with SSLL, her
the Annapurna’s to allow the group to enjoy a two previous trips being Ireland and German
spectacular sunrise over the mountains. tour wit 11 other countries as well as a tour
All of the group but June climbed the 280 steps last fall of Italy.
to the top of Sarangkot Hill to watch the sunrise. June retired from the US Department of
June found a vantage point not far from the top Agriculture in Tawas City, Michigan in 1987
where she was able to sit and enjoy watching and has been keeping busy ever since. She ran
the sun illuminate the snowcapped peaks to a for township clerk in Baldwin Township and
brilliant white. served in that position for eight years. She also
That was Thursday, January 24. But the volunteered for 12 years at the area Chamber
highlight was to come as she had planned to ride of Commerce. Now in her 90s she’s active in the
the zip-line down Sarangkot hill. Tawas Area United Methodist Church along
with volunteering for SSLL.
Was she nervous? “No,” she replied. She
said that the owners and employees were more Did she have a favorite place in Nepal? “I
nervous and thought she should not go. June had don’t know,’ she replied. “It’s a beautiful place.
made up her mind to go, and she mounted the People here are so friendly and happy.” She
short steps and got right into the chair to prepare ZRXOGGHÀQLWHO\UHFRPPHQG1HSDOWRDQ\RQH
for the ride down the mountain. who wants to see beautiful mountains and great
The Zip-Line in Pokhara is billed as the world’s scenery as well as an excellent sunrise in the
longest and steepest zip-line as it drops around Annapurnas.
600 meters in under two minutes with speeds Her one complaint? “Lots and lots of steps!
approaching 140 k/ph. It drops at an angle of 56°. I don’t think they make even steps (in Nepal).
“The views were clear from the top,” said June, ,W·VKDUGWRGRZLWKDUWLÀFLDONQHHVµ
With an incline of 56 although she noted once she started down the hill, June does want to return to Nepal, but this
degree, total length of 1.8 she wasn’t looking at the mountains. Getting to time, she wants to try paragliding in Pokhara.
km and a vertical drop of
600 meters, it is the tallest, WKHFKDLUZDVQRWGLIÀFXOWHYHQZLWKKHUDUWLÀFLDO For some people, retirement may mean slowing
the longest and the steepest knees. At the bottom, she had no problem once she down and doing very little. But for June Scott,
zipline in the whole world
remembered which strap to pull to release herself. its just another adventure. Even at 93..

A ROYAL
NEPALI DINNER
&=(6.%20&)%()678%(8
remain and are in use. Baber Mahal is just one of

those palaces, built by Prime Minister Maharaja
Chandra Shumshere Jung Bahadur Rana for
his son Sir Baber Shumshere Rana. The son,
HGXFDWHGLQ2[IRUGEHFDPHWKHÀUVWRIWKH5DQDV
to be given a British knighthood by King George
V for his work during WWI. Even though Nepal
was never a British colony, Nepal and the United
Kingdom has enjoyed strong relations for over
200 years.
Baber Mahal Revisted has been restored to its
original elegance. It features four restaurants, a
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city. Baithak is actually operated by the Baber
Mahal itself and has just recently opened to offer
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programs.
Dinner is served in style with the arrival of
a small plate of Nepali appitizers that include
R
ubi and I climbed up the stairs leading chicken momo and a potato in a mustard sauce
WR WKH VHFRQG ÁRRU RI WKH IRUPHU WKDWFRPSOLPHQWVWKHSRWDWRLQDOORILWVÁDYRU
Rana palace to reach the Baithak The waiter comes and pours us a glass of Newari
restaurant at Baber Mahal Revisted. roxy, a local alcoholic beverage into a cut glass
The doors were open by a young man dressed as a stemmed glassware to which we can sip, allowing
Rana guard from a century ago as we walked into LWVXQLTXHÁDYRUWRUROODURXQGXSRQRXUWRQJXH
WKLVPDJQLÀFHQWKDOOÀWIRUDNLQJ7ZRORQJURZV in order to savor its taste.
of tables pointed toward the stage, illuminated Rubi Gurung who has accompanied me is a
E\FU\VWDOFKDQGHOLHUVWKDWUHÁHFWHGLQPLUURUV very good cook of Nepali food and has joined me
situated around the walls. This is elegance as we with some suspicion of its quality. Few can match
were to expereince a royal Nepali dinner with her cooking of traditional dhal bhat, but when
traditional dancing. the main course arrives she is enchanted with
Most visitors do attend some restaurant that WKHGHHSEROGÁDYRURIWKHEODFNGKDOWKDWLVLQ
features traditional Nepali food with a cultural the center of the plate.
show, but nowhere in Kathmandu can such be Dhal bhat is the staple of Nepali foods. It's
enjoyed with such elegance and style. A certain served daily in every household with each lady
sense of hushness as in anticipation of the arrival providing their own unique interpretation to this
of someone important as Baithak Restaurant. mixture. Our dinner arrives on a large silver
The name "Baithak" means "meeting place" platter that has indentations for the various
DQGLWVREYLRXVWKDWWKLVURRPZDVGHÀQLWHO\WKH elements that compose the dhal bhat.
meeting place for the Ranas. This was a ruling The silver tray is not common to Nepali
famliy who held a hereditary prime-ministership culture; this was only something the kings and
from 1846 to 1951. Throughout the valley, they the Ranas practiced. Specially made with deep
built numerous palaces, of which many still indentations for the various foods, we look down

A ROYAL NEPALI DINNER
at basmati rice seasoned with saffron. The black LWVXQLTXHO\UREXVWÁDYRU,WHQGWRHDWLWDVDVRXSZLWK

dhal is in the middle while circumscribing the its rich lentils and other ingredients. When the waiter
plate is pickle, spinach, potato and many more comes to offer more, I greedily accept.
items. The unique silver plate is called the Royal Rubi gives a nod of approval as she slowly tastes a
Rana Thali. spoonful to deterine its quality. At another such restaurant,
Traditionally, the items are then spooned up VKHUHMHFWHGWKHGKDOEHFDXVHLWZDVDÁDYRUOHVVOLTXLG%XW
and placed on top of the rice while the dhal soup here she's able to say it is very good dhal. The waiter explains
is poured over it. Rubi follows tradition while I that it takes this dhal three hours to make as it simmers
prefer to eat the dhal soup separately, savoring WRLPSUHJQDWHDOOWKHLQJUHGLHQWVZLWKLWVUREXVWÁDYRU
While we are eating dinner, two young ladies come
out and begin to perform dances on the stage. These
ladies come smiling as they perform dances from a
variety of cultures that are a part of Nepal. In some of
the dances, the young men also join in as they dance
everything thing from romantic songs to one of warriors.
Sangita Shrestha joins us at the table. She is the
dance master who has been teaching and training the
dancers in the traditional dances of the Nepali people.
Sangita tells us that when she was younger, she was
quite the traditional dancer. Now in her new role as dance
master at Baber Mahal Revisted, she has the privilege of
imparting this knowledge of the ancient culture to future
generations of young Nepali men and women.
One of the most unique dances we watched was the
Hudkeli or Warrior Dance as two young men came onto the
stage dressed in traditional battle dress with swords and
VKLHOGVDQGGHPRQVWUDWHGWKHLUÀQHPRYHPHQWVWRPXVLF
Sangita explained that this was a very old traditional dance
which I had never seen perfomed in all the time I've been
living in Nepal. The movements at times were done slowly
and with a great deal of deliberation.
:HÀQLVKRXUGHOLFLXVPHDOZLWKRQHPRUHFRXUVH
dessert made of a thickly sweetened yogurt topped with
pomegranites. i slowly raise my cut class of roxy and
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Every visitor to Nepal must see a cultural program at
least once. And Baithak restaurant at Baber Mahal Revisted
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Hotel Shangri~la, Kathmandu
+RWHO6KDQJULaOD.DWKPDQGX 6KDQJULaOD9LOODJH5HVRUW3RNKDUD
A : Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal. A : Gharipatan, Pokhara, Nepal
P : +977-1-4412999/4419743 P : +977-61-462222/460224
E : info@hotelshangrila.com E : reservation@shangrilavillageresort.com
www.hotelshangrila.com
Shangri~la Village Resort, Pokhara

HIMALAYA NEWS
ETIHAD AIRWAYS CELEBRATES 15

YEARS OF GLOBAL OPERATIONS
AND HONOURS TOP TRAVEL
PARTNERS IN NEPAL
VIVANTA HOTEL KATHMANDU COMES INTO OPERATION
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NEPAL AIRLINES NOW FLYING TO JAPAN
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TURKISH AIRLINES KATHMANDU CELEBRATED
5TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY ITS 5TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY
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Diary of International
IBTM Arabia IBTM CHINA

Travel & Trade Fair
06-08 Feb 2019 23-24 Aug 2019

The Leading One-to-One Event for the China Incentives, Business Travel &
Middle East’s MICE Industry Meetings Exhibition China National
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, Abu Dhabi, Convention Centre, Beijing, China
United Arab Emirates
Arabian Travel Market IFTM

travel events
22-25 Apr 2019 26-29 Sep 2019

Means Business
Leading Travel & Tourism Trade Show
Dubai International Convention &
Exhibition Centre (DICEC), Dubai, Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris,
United Arab Emirates France
WTM CONNECT ASIA World Travel Market (WTM) London
17-19 May 2019 06-08 Nov 2019

1-2-1 Outbound Travel Trade Event The Leading Global Event for the Travel
Straits Quay Convention Centre, Tan- Industry
jung Tokong, Malaysia
ExCeL, London, United Kingdom
IBTM AMERICA IBTM World
14-16 Jun 2019 28-30 Nov 2019

A Private Event for 250 Exhibitors & The Leading Global Event for the Meet-
250 Meeting Planners ings & Events Industry
The Diplomat Resort & Spa Hollywood,
Fira Gran Via, Barcelona, Spain
Hollywood, United States

HOLI
This is the time India and Nepal, and communities all over the globe, explode into colour
as the Hindu communities celebrate with abandoned enthusiasm and excitement

Himalayas Magazine - June 2019

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Nepal · Bhutan · Tibet · Myanmar · Pakistan · India

Travel Himalaya Magazine is published

YOU ARE HERE AND WE ARE HERE FOR YOU

RADISSON HOTEL KATHMANDU

10/ KASHMIR 34/ Manaslu Circuit &

18 / A short walk in the 28/ Tibet

46/ KATHMANDU Valley of the Green-Eyed Yellow Idol

66/ Team Yak Attack 78/

“WELCOME TO PARADISE ON EARTH.”

“Venice of the East.” It is famous for its gardens, lakes

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investment. When to go:1EVGLXSIEVP]1E]

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We started out in Charikot and had initially

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It is while walking around Simigaon; we get

QUICK FACTS From Simigaon to Surmuche, we left the

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cars along with broken windows and parts of

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Lhasa had been destroyed and rebuilt

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at Nyalam, Old Tingri, Shigatse (Tashilhunpo

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Manaslu Lodge Circuit

A lesser-known circular trek around one of the world’s highest mountains.

exodus.co.uk 0203 131 7614

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of the Shringi Himal and then a great bit of

Turning a corner at Deng, we began to climb

Most of the larger villages have lodges and

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high-altitude days and also great for bird watching. We CURRENCY/MONEY

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Discover unique expereinces of a perfect holiday.

Welcome to Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, the ultimate destination

For reservations, visit

HYATT REGENCY KATHMANDU

©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

WALK ON THE BARA

56 | TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 www.travelhimalayamagazine.com

Tel no: ____________ Date of birth: 3. Branch sort code - -

Title:_____ Initial:_ Surname: _______________________________

at basmati rice seasoned with saffron. The black LWVXQLTXHO\UREXVWÁDYRU,WHQGWRHDWLWDVDVRXSZLWK