KOSMETIKOLOGI

PERTEMUAN - 3
MOISTURIZERS

Tamara Gusti Ebtavanny

S.Farm., M.Farm., Apt
 CAPAIAN PEMBELAJARAN

• Mahasiswa mampu memahami Definisi moisturizers

• Mahasiswa mampu memahami Mekanisme kerja
moisturizers
• Mahasiswa mampu memahami dan menjelaskan
tentang moisturizing agent dan mekanisme kerja
masing-masing
 REFERENSI

• Cosmetic and toiletary formulation. Vol 8. 2nd Ed

• Cosmeceutical and active cosmetics. 2nd Ed
• Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd Ed
 DEFINISI

• MOISTURIZERS
Liquid that is used for softening the
skin, especially for naturally dry
skins. They increase the skin's water
content by reducing evaporation
They can be quite a complicated
chemical mixture. They may contain
naturally occurring skin lipids and
sterols, artificial or natural oils,
emollients, lubricants,etc.
 SKIN WATER CONTENT

• The water content of the keratinous layer allows for a certain

amount of suppleness. When the water content of the skin is
normal, it appears soft, smooth, supple, and glowing.
 DRY SKIN

• Skin with a low water content  appears dry, fissured, loses its
suppleness and rough.
• Superficial layer do not peel off easily  accumulated keratinous cell
 delicate layer of scales on its surface. Fine lines are more apparent.
• Extremely dry skin  xerosis.
 WHAT CAUSES DRY SKIN?
• External causes
–Dry environment
–Wind
–Artificial indoor heating/ air conditioning
–Washing  remove oily layer, which hold the moistrure. Some soap 
have drying effect
–Exposure to certain substance
ex : Detergent, solvent, medical treatment for acne
• The skin’s ability to retain moisture
–Aging  skin loses its ability to retain moisture
–Atopic dermatitis  skin falls to retain body water.
–Dietary deficiencies
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM

OCCLUSIVE
• Produce an oily layer on the skin  skin’s natural lipid film >>  water evaporation << 
keratinous layer dampens  fully saturated with water
• More effective if applied directly after washing  trapping a layer of water beneath

HUMECTANT
• Humectant absorb water
• It’s able to penetrate the keratinous layer  increase it’s water content
• Most effective moisturizers : combination of occlusive and humectant. Such as : lanolin and it’s
derivates, occlusive but have a certain degree of absortive capacity

EMOLLIENT
• Lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum are examples of occlusive ingredients that also confer an
emollient effect
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM

OCCLUSIVE HUMECTANT EMOLLIENT

MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM
MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
OCCLUSIVE
1. Mineral-derived fatty compounds
• such as : paraffin or petroleumjelly; Cetomacrogol.
• Moisturizers based mainly on minerals  highly effective, but they are sticky and
greasy  intended for people with very dry skin or certain skin medical problems

2. Substances derived from animal fat

• Co : Lanolin

3. Vegetable oils
• such as olive oil, oat oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, and many others
• Vegetable oil  less occlusive than no 1 and 2, but allow sufficient occlusion
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
1. Products composed of relatively small molecules with efficient absorbing
capabilities
• Ex : glycerine (glycerol), Sorbitol, Propylene glycol

2. Macromolecules

• composed of larger molecules not able to penetrate keratinous layer  form a hygroscopic,
water-absorbing layer on the skin
• Ex : Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic acid, elastin, collagen

3. Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)

• Combination of several compound created in the skin  20% - 25% of the keratinous layer
• Func : Retain the water content of the keratinous layer
• Ex : sodium salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid, urea (10% to 20%), lactic acid, phospolipid
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT

Chemistry of hygroscopic substance

 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Propylene glycol is a clear, colorless, viscous, and
practically odorless liquid having a sweet, slightly
acrid taste resembling glycerol
• Under ordinary conditions it is stable in well-closed
PROPILEN containers,
GLYCOL -1 • Chemically stable when mixed with glycerin, water,
or alcohol
• General uses :
– Solvent & vehicle in cosmetic & pharmaceutical manufacturing
– Antifreeze & emulsifier in foods
– Inhibitor of fermentation & mold growth
– Humectant
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Effect on skin :
– Propylene glycol has been tried in the treatment of a number of
skin disorders, including ichthyosis, tinea versicolor and
seborrheic dermatitis because of its humectant, keratolytic,
PROPILEN antibacterial, and antifungal properties
• Safety :
GLYCOL -2 – Propylene glycol has been given an acceptable daily intake (ADI)
value of 25 mg/kg by the Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee of
Food.
– Poisoning has been found after oral doses of around 100 to 200
mg/kg to children and after topical treatment with high
concentrations in burn patients
– Skin irritation& sensitization to PG  as low as 10% under
occlusive condition. As low as 2% in dermatitis patient
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Butylene glycol means 1,3-butanediol, or 2,3-
butanediol
Butylene • It is a viscous, colorless liquid with sweet flavor
and bitter after taste
Glycol -1 • It is soluble in water, acetone, and castor oil, but
practically insoluble in aliphatic hydrocarbon
• General Use :
 humectant for cellophane and tobacco
 Humectant for Topical products
 solvents for injectable product
 Hair sprays
 Preserve cosmetic (most resistant to high humidity)
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Safety
• Butylene glycol is considered safe by the Cosmetic
Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel
Butylene • Human skin patch test on undiluted butylene glycol
Glycol -2 --> very low order of primary skin irritation
• Repeated patch test  produced no evidence of
skin sensitization
• The substance is reported to be less irritating than
propylene glycol
• Few reports of contact allergy exist, but the
substance does not seem to cross-react with
propylene glycol
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• In 1779  Glycerin could be made from a hydrolyzate of
olive oil.
• The alcohol is a clear, colorless, odorless, syrupy, and
hygroscopic liquid (approximately 0.6 times as sweet as
Glycerin -1 cane sugar
• It is miscible with water and alcohol, slightly soluble in
acetone, and practically insoluble in chloroform and ether
• General Use :
–solvent,
–Plasticizer
–Sweetener
–Lubricant
–preservative
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Effect of the skin :
• Humectant and protecting properties.
– Moisturizers for treatment of dry skin conditions  20% - 25%
• Glycerin : attracts water, modulate the phase behavior of SC lipids,
Glycerin -2 prevent crystallization of their lamellar structures in vitro at low relative
humidity (29).
• Safety :
• Very large oral or parenteral doses  increase in the plasma osmolality,
 movement of water by osmosis from the extravascular spaces into the
plasma  exert systemic effects
• Glycerin dropped on the human eye causes a strong stinging and burning
sensation, with tearing and dilatation of the conjunctival vessels
• Glycerin has been shown to have excellent skin tolerability
• Treatment with 20% glycerin did not show any signs of adverse effects on
atopic dry skin
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Sorbitol is a hexahydric alcohol appearing as a white crystalline powder,
odorless, and having a fresh and sweet taste
• Sorbitol is most commonly available as 70% aqueous solution  clear,
colorless, and viscous.
• It is easily dissolved in water, but not so well in alcohol. It is practically
Sorbitol insoluble in organic solvents.
• Sorbitol is relatively chemically inert and compatible with most
excipients, but it may react with iron oxide and become discolored
• Safety :
– When ingested in large amounts (>20 g/day), it often produces a
laxative effect
• General uses :
– Sweetener in diabetic foods and in toothpastes
– Laxative
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Hyaluronan : The predominant component of the extracellular
matrix  hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate.
• Molecular weight is within the range of 50,000 to 8 x 106
Hyaluronan depending on source, methods of preparation, and determination
• Hyaluronic acid binds water and functions as a lubricant between
(Hyaluronic the collagen and the elastic fiber networks in dermis during skin
movement  A 2% aqueous solution of pure hyaluronic acid
holds the remaining 98% water so tightly
Acid) -1 • General use :
– Viscous solution of Na hyaluronate  surgical prosedure on eye
– Intra-artikular injection  treatment of osteoarthritis of the knee
– Topically  Wound healing
– Topical 0,1%  patient with dry eye  treatment of irritation&
grittiness
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Effect of skin
– High molecular weight hyaluronic acid solutions form
Hyaluronan hydrated viscoelastic films on the skin
– molecular size >> aggregation and entanglement of
(Hyaluronic the molecules >>  the more substantial and
functional the viscoelastic film associated with the skin
Acid) -1 surface
– High molecular weight  hyaluronic acid will not
penetrate deeper than the crevices between the
desquamating cells.
• Safety
– Sodium hyaluronate is essentially nontoxic.
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
PROTEIN
• Proteins and amino acids for cosmetics are based on a variety of natural
sources  Collagen is the traditional protein used in cosmetics (High
moisture retention properties)
• Suitable sources include wheat, rice, soybean, and oat.
• In cosmetics, native proteins can be used, but perhaps the most widely used
protein types are hydrolyzed proteins of intermediate molecular weight with
higher solubility.
• Efficacy & Safety :
– Amino acids belong to the NMF and account for 40% of its dry weight
– Low molecular weight  capable penetrating the skin & cuticle of hair
– urticarial or vesicular exacerbation has been noted a few minutes after contact
with the causative substance
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Lactic acid : colorless to yellowish crystal or syrupy liquid, miscible
with water, alcohol, and glycerol, but insoluble in chloroform
• Lactic acid is an a-hydroxy acid (AHA), i.e., an organic carboxylic
acid in which there is a hydroxy group at the two, or a, position of
Lactic Acid the carbon chain
• Lactic acid can exist in a DL, D, or L form (enantiomorphic isomers
-1 • General use :
–Topical preparation  buffering properties&water binding
capacity
–Lactid acid&its salt  douching, maintain normal
athmosphere of vagina
–Dandruff, callus, keratosis and verrucae
–Treatment of acne  pH <<, formation of fatty acid <<
–Thickness of viable dermis >>>  photoaging changes
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Effect on Skin
– In guinea pig footpad corneum  lactic acid&Na lactate increase
water holding capacity&skin extensibility
– K lactat >> than Na lactate  K ion can maintain physical properties
Lactic Acid of SC
– pH >>  adsorbtion of lactic acid <<  ionization pf acid
-2 – Treatment of ichtyosis&dry skin : 12%
– Treatment lamellar ichtyosis  5% lactic acid + 20% propilen glikol
 increased TEWL
• Safety
– Lactic acid is caustic to the skin, eyes, and mucous membranes in a
concentrated form
– Immediately after the application of an AHA, stinging and smarting
may be noticed  related to pH&substance itself
– Due to insufficient safety data, the FDA recommends that lactic acid
should be used up to a maximum level of 2.5% and a pH ≥ 5
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• D-Panthenol is a clear, almost colorless, odorless, and viscous
hygroscopic liquid, may crystallize on prolonged release
• Panthenol : Alcohol  D-pantothenic acid (vitamin B5)
(converted in tissue)
Panthenol - • Panthenol is very soluble in water, freely soluble in alcohol and
glycerol, but insoluble in fats and oils
• Fairly stable to air and light if protected from humidity,
1 • Sensitive to acids and bases and also to heat
• The rate of hydrolysis is lowest at pH 4 to 6
• General uses : (usually 2% is used)
– In the pharmaceutical & cosmetic  its moisturizing, soothing &
sedative
– Topical treatment of rhinitis, conjunctivitis, sunburn
– wound healing (ulcers, burns, bed sores, and excoriations)
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Effect of skin and hair
– Topically applied panthenol is reported to penetrate the skin and hairs and to
be transformed into pantothenic acid
– Skin redness decreased more rapidly by panthenol treatment
Panthenol - – Pantothenic acid can be found in normal hair (18). Soaking of hair in 2%
aqueous solution of panthenol  increase the hair diameter up to 10%

2 • Safety
– Panthenol has very low toxicity and is considered safe to be used in cosmetics
– Panthenol & products containing panthenol (0.5–2%) administered to rabbits
 ranging from no skin irritation to moderate-to-severe erythema and well-
defined edema
– Low concentrations have also been tested on humans,  did not induce
– sensitization or significant skin irritation
– Contact sensitization to panthenol present in cosmetics, sunscreens, and hair
lotion has been reported, although allergy to panthenol among patients
attending for patch testing is uncommon
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• “PCA” is the cosmetic ingredient term used for the cyclic
organic compound known as 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid
• The “L” form of the sodium salt is a naturally occurring
PCA and humectant in the SC at levels about 12% of the NMF
corresponding to about 2% by weight in the SC
Salt of PCA • The sodium salts of PCA are among the most powerful
humectants
-1 • Effect on Skin :
– Treatment with a cream containing 5% sodium-PCA  increased
the water-holding capacity of isolated corneum compared with
the cream base (65).
– The same cream was also more effective than a control product
containing no humectant, and equally effective as a similar
established product with urea as humectant, in reducing the skin
dryness and flakiness
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• In animal studies, no irritation in the eye and the skin
was noted at concentrations up to 50%, and no evidence
of phototoxicity, sensitization, or comedogenicity
PCA and • Minimal transient ocular irritation has been produced by
50% PCA
Salt of PCA • Immediate visible contact reactions in back skin have also
been noted after application of 6.25% to 50% aqueous
-2 solutions of sodium PCA
• The response appeared within five minutes and
disappeared 30 minutes after application.
• PCA should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-
nitroso compounds could be formed
 MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
HUMECTANT
• Physiological substance occurring in human tissues, blood, and
urine
• The amount is of the order of 2% in urine.
• Urea is a colorless, transparent, slightly hygroscopic, odorless or
almost odorless, prismatic crystal, or white crystalline powder or
UREA pellet.
• Urea is freely soluble in water, slightly soluble in alcohol, and
practically insoluble in ether.
• General use :
– Treatment of ichthyosis and hyperkeratotic skin disorders  10%
creaam
– Lower concentrations for the treatment of dry skin.
– In the treatment of onychomycosis, urea is added to a medicinal
formulation at 40% as a keratoplastic agent to increase the
bioavailability of the drug
MOISTURIZERS MECCHANISM :
EMOLLIENT
 TEWL

• Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements (TEWL)

• The measurement of transepidermal water loss or skin surface
vapor loss is a good indicator of the integrity of the skin barrier
function which inherently refers to the skin ’ s ability to retain
moisture.
• An increase in the TEWL indicates an impaired barrier function.
Altered skin barrier and TEWL have been shown to be correlated to
skin aging.
• There are a range of instruments, most of which provide results in
g/m2/hour, which measure TEWL. Numerous variables can affect
TEWL measurements, including inherent subject factors, as well as
environmental and instrumental differences
 TEWL
The more perfect the skin protective
coat  water content >>  TEWL<<
TEWAMETER
FORMULA
THANK YOU!