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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®
http://www.woodonline.com

Mission Mirror

This Arts and Crafts-inspired

looking glass also reflects
your woodworking talents.

Though a perfect companion to our Arts and Crafts-style

dresser, plan DP-00440, this mirror also works as a stand-
alone accessory for a bedroom or hallway. That’s why we
provide mounting options for a wall or dresser.
DP-00437 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2004 Page 1 of 7
 1fl"
41‹"

D
31‡" 3"

‹" chamfer B 1›"

2" F „" glue kerfs
Braided wire „" deep
(60 lb. capacity) 6"

F A Picture hanger

1" counterbore ¤" deep

with a Ï" pilot hole A
fi" deep centered inside G
17fi"
›" rabbet
›" deep #6 x fi" panhead
‹" chamfer wood screw
21‹" on front edges 6"
1" fender
15Œ" washer
C 31‡"

‹" chamfer ¤ x 1fi x 4"

E 36‹" steel bar stock
for mounting to dresser
1fl" ¤ x 17› x 31fl" mirror
1 exploded view
Shown from back

Page 2 of 7
 „" glue kerf „" deep
„" from edge
›" rabbets
›" deep

2"
B 2 stile and rail detail
Shown from back
1fl"
1›" rabbet
A 1›" ›" deep

fi" to start of arch

1"
1" counterbore ¤" deep
‹" with a Ï" pilot hole
fi" deep, centered inside
1" fender washer

#6 x fi" panhead
TOP›"SECTION VIEW wood screw
rabbets
(Part
›" D removed)
deep

‹" chamfer

2¤"

„" glue kerf „" deep

„" from edge

G ¤" mirror 1" fender washer

3 section view F
Shown from top C A
E „" glue kerfs

(Part D removed)

Page 3 of 7
Make 1" stiles
from 3⁄4" stock
1 The 1"-thick oak used for the
stiles (A) isn’t always easy to
find, but it can be easy to make
from ‡" stock. To begin, cut
three pieces 2‹×22‹"‑from ‡"
quartersawn white oak.
2 Arrange the three boards with
the two best faces on the
outside. Mark the inside faces to
indicate the glue side, as shown in
Photo A.
3 Glue and clamp the three
‑
pieces together to make a
2‹×2‹×22‹" piece, keeping the
edges and ends flush.
4 Scrape off any excess dried glue
and rip the piece to 2" wide.
Bandsaw the piece in half, as shown
in Photo B. Then plane the glue-up
to 1" thick. Cut two stiles (A) to a
final length of 21‹".
Create the
remaining parts
1 Cut the top rail (B), lower rail
(C), top (D), base (E), and two
7 Using a router table equipped
blanks for the corbels (F) to the
sizes specified on the Materials
List.
2Refer to and , and
Drawings 1 2
cut rabbet joints on the ends
8 To create recesses for the fender
DON’T HAVE 1" STOCK? TRY THIS
A B
Face gluing three ‡"-thick pieces creates a 2‹"-thick
blank for ripping the stiles.
of the top and lower rails using a bore six counterbores on the back
standard saw blade or dado set, as side of the frame, as dimensioned
shown in Photo C. Do not move the
fence yet.
on Drawing 2. Then drill a Ï" pilot
hole fi" deep centered in each 1"
3 Along one inner edge of both
stiles, cut a ›"-deep rabbet, as
shown in Drawing 2, so that the rail
counterbore.
9 Control glue squeeze-out by
cutting „"-deep glue kerfs
ends will fit flush with the stiles on along the edges of the corbels and
the back side.
4 Cut a ›"-deep rabbet along the
top edge of the lower rail (C).
rails, as shown in Drawings 1 and
2. Kerfs are placed „" in from the
faces and stop about ‹" from the
5 To cut the top rail (B) rabbet,
raise the blade to 1›" and place
ends on the corbels (F).
the most attractive face against the
fence. Cut the rabbet in two passes
for a ›" finished depth.
Begin building the frame
1 Glue and clamp the stiles and rails
together, as shown in . Keep
Photo E
6 Mark the cut line for the top
rail (B), where dimensioned on
Drawings 1 and 2. Note the fi" flat
the ends of the stiles flush with the
backs of the rails, as shown in Drawing
3. Check for square by measuring
spot on the bottom edge of each diagonally for equal distances. Later,
end of the rail, where shown on sand the frame smooth.
Drawing 2. As shown in Photo D,
we used a fairing stick to mark the
arch. Bandsaw and sand the arch to
2 Rout a ‹" chamfer on the ends
and the front edge of the top and
base (D, E). We used a fence on
shape. the router table plus a miter gauge
with a fence, rout a ‹" chamfer
along the inside edge of the front
with an auxiliary extension to prevent
chip-out. Be sure to rout the ends
before cutting the long edge.
face of the lower rail (C), where
shown in Drawing 2. 3 Center and clamp the top and
base to the frame, keeping the
washers used to hold the mirror
in place, use a 1" Forstner bit to
back edges flush and the parts
centered from side to side.
2‹"
2"
Bandsawing the 2‹"-thick blank leaves ¤" extra
to remove for the final 1" thickness.
Page 4 of 7
RABBET THE RAILS MARK THE TOP RAIL ARCH

C D
An auxiliary miter-gauge extension supports workpieces A fairing stick is a flexible piece of wood that can
to prevent chip-out. be pulled into a curve to establish an arc.

FORM THE FRAME ADD CORBELS, TOP AND BASE

E F
Clamps keep the rabbeted joints both flat and square to Bar clamps provide a place to leverage smaller
form the frame. clamps for attaching the corbels.

Finish and add the

4 Make two copies of the corbel
pattern on page 7 and
Drawing 4
spray-adhere them to your blanks,
keeping the straight lines on the
pattern flush with the straight edges
of your blanks. Bandsaw and sand
both corbels to shape.
mirror 4 Install the mirror and then the
back. Attach the fender washers
1Measure the rabbetted opening, and
have a mirror cut ¤" undersize.
with #6×fi" panhead wood screws
to secure the mirror.
2rabbetted
Cut the back (G) to fit the
opening. 5 If you plan to hang the mirror,
use picture hangers and braided

5 After cutting glue kerfs in the

corbels, glue and clamp the
corbels in place with the back flush
and the top edge tight under the top,
as shown in Photo F.
3 Finish-sand and stain the frame.
(We used Watco Danish Oil
Finish in Dark Walnut.) Allow at
wire as shown in . To
Drawing 1
attach it atop a dresser, use the bar
stock where shown. ¿
least three days for the oil to dry Produced by Marlen Kemmet
before sealing the finish with two Written by Bob Wilson with Chuck Hedlund
coats of polyurethane, sanding Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
lightly between coats. Graphic design: Lorna Johnson

Page 5 of 7
 shop tip
Kerfs control squeeze-out
Glue kerfs keep squeeze-out off the face
of the rails, top, base, and from around the
corbels. Set the saw blade height to „"
and the fence „" from the blade. Where
the blade starts to touch the wood, make
a pencil line on a piece of tape near the
‹"
Cutting Diagram
blade. Add another pencil mark ‹" in
front of the cut line to serve as a stopping
point for your cuts. Cut the first kerfs in
the corbels and other pieces as instructed.
After making all these cuts, move the fence
to place the blade ¨" from the fence and Stop cutting
here
make the second set of cuts to complete
the kerfs, as shown at r i g h t . Blade contacts wood

Cutting Diagram
C F F E
A
B
D
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.)

Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Mission Mirror T W L Matl. Qty.
G A* stiles 1" 2" 21‹" LWO 2
B top rail ‡" 3" 31‡" QWO 1
C* lower rail ‡" 2fi" 31‡" QWO 1
D top ‡" 1fl" 41‹" QWO 1
¤ x 24 x 48" Hardboard E base ‡" 1fl" 36‹" QWO 1
F* corbels ‡" 2fi" 15" QWO 2
G back ¤" 17fi" 31‡" HB 1
* Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials Key: LWO—laminated white oak, QWO—

quartersawn white oak, HG—hardboard.
The purchase of these plans does not
transfer any copyright or other ownership Supplies: 1" fender washers (6), #6×fi" panhead wood
interest in the plans, the design or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
screws, picture hangers and 60 lb.(or greater) braided wire
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer or ¤×1fi×4" steel bar stock (2), ¤×17›×31fl" mirror.
for sale any copies of the finished project.
Blades and bits: Chamfer router bit, 1" Forstner bit.

Page 6 of 7
 To ensure full-size patterns are correct
size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
4 FULL-SIZE PATTERN full-size patterns to verify size.

fi 1"
‹ ‡

2fi" Join pattern here.

F
CORBEL
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(2 needed)

15"
Join pattern here.

Page 7 of 7
s
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