Interpretation of Test data from

Modern Testing Instruments

The South India Textile Research Association

Coimbatore
SITRA 1
 Length Control (LCT) – A new fiber length tester

INTRODUCTION

Cotton and manmade fibres in sliver form from cards, draw

frames and combers in all common linear densities can be tested in this
machine. Does not require laboratory conditions; testing can be carried out
by keeping the instrument near the machines in the shop floor.
The fibre length measuring system is based on a modified fibrograph
principle. The sliver is clamped in the middle and the fibres protruding
from both the sides of the clamp are scanned. An optical sensor measures
the fibre mass with reference to the distance to the clamp.
A monochrome digital CCD line scan camera is used to scan the tapered
fibre beard.
SITRA 2
 Length Control (LCT) – A new fiber length tester

The sliver is fed manually into the instrument and thus into the drafting
system (2). The clamp (3) grasps the sliver and moves to the combing rolls
(4) which then comb out the fibre beard. Next, the clamp moves to the
straightening unit (5) with the sample and then to the camera (6). It measures the
fibre beard on both sides upto 0.2 mm from the clamp. The evaluation of the
measurement with additional information on parallelism and fibre hooks are
shown on the display screen (1). The fan (8) generates the necessary negative
pressure to convey the sample and dispose of it in the waste container (9).
The integrated compressor (7) supplies compressed air to the pneumatic
components of the instrument.
SITRA 3
 Length parameters of card sliver obtained in TC –
LCT, HVI & AFIS instruments

S.no Particulars TC-LCT values Particulars HVI values

2.5% span
1 Upper length(mm) 29.22 28.90
length(mm)
Staple gradient (%)
2 41.59 Uniformity ratio (%) 45.10
(a*)
TC-LCT AFIS
Particulars Particulars
values values
Mean length L(W) by
3 LCT length(mm) (b*) 20.91 25.38
weight (mm)
Short fiber content(%) Mean length L(n) by
4 14.30 20.38
(c*) number (mm)
SFC % by weight
5 Fiber hooks (%) (d*) 8.53 9.28
SF(w)
SFC % by number
25.35
SF(n)
SITRA 4
 Earlier techniques for hook measurement

Optical tracer fibre technique

─ 0.1% - 0.3% of tracer fibres are dyed with some dark colour dye
─ These tracer fibres are mixed with parent fibres during blending
─ The experimental sample (Sliver, roving or yarn) is immersed in a
solution which has the same refractive index as that of parent fibres
─ This makes the grey parent fibres optically dissolve while profile of
coloured tracer fibres can easily be seen under a microscope. This
technique can be used for the measurement of fibre orientation
parameters, like fibre extent, type of hooks and hook extent in sliver,
roving and yarn.
SITRA 5
General pattern of hooks in slivers obtained
at different stages of processing

SITRA 6
Hook assessment for roller settings
optimisation

Hooks in Breaker sliver for different roller settings

SITRA 7
 Hook assessment for roller settings
optimisation (contd.)

Hooks in finisher sliver for different roller settings

SITRA 8
Hook assessment for roller settings
optimisation (contd.)

Hooks in Breaker sliver for different roller settings

SITRA 9
Hook assessment for roller settings
optimisation (contd.)

Hooks in finisher sliver for different roller settings

SITRA 10
 Other application of LCT

- The ‘Length control LCT’ is particularly useful in assessing carding

intensity on the shop floor in a relatively shorter length of time.

- Determination of optimum cylinder speed in a card for a given cotton.

- Daily checking of the same card for deviations, if any, in performance.

- Assessing the performance difference between individual cards in a

carding department with a large number of cards on a daily basis.

- ‘Length control LCT’ helps to avoid the need for taking the samples
collected from the cards to testing laboratory and testing them in the
laboratory under controlled humidity conditions using off–line testing
instruments to arrive at conclusions on fibre damage etc.
SITRA 11
AFIS – (Advanced Fiber Information System)

Term Definition Application

L(w) Mean length by weight Comparable to HVI 50%
Span length
UQL(w) Upper quartile length by weight; Comparable to HVI 2.5% SL
SFC(n) Short fiber content % by number Control fibre damage in
less than ½ inch opening, carding and combing
5%(n) Longest 5% of the fibre lengths Machine settings
2.5%(n) Longest 2.5% of the fiber lengths Machine settings
SITRA 12
 Fiber length parameters of card slivers
Sample AFIS 5% Length (mm) HVI 2.5% Span Length Difference
no (mm) (mm)
1 30.4 25.0 5.4
2 34.5 29.0 5.5
3 38.7 33.0 5.7
4 43.5 37.6 5.9
5 35.8 29.1 6.7
6 43.1 37.4 5.7
Avg = 5.8

Settings in draw frame based AFIS length data

Roller settings
Draw frame Passage (nip to nip in mm)
Front Back
Breaker 5% AFIS length 5% AFIS length + 4
Finishing 5% AFIS length + 2 5% AFIS length + 6

Settings in draw frame based HVI data

Draw frame Passage Front Back
Breaker HVI 2.5% SL + 6mm HVI 2.5% SL + 10mm
Finishing HVI 2.5% SL + 8mm HVI 2.5% SL + 12mm
SITRA 13
 AFIS – (Advanced Fiber Information System)
Nep count & Nep size

TERM DEFINITION APPLICATION

Nep count Number of Neps in one Analysis of processing
gram of material equipment
Nep size Nep average diameter in Determines impact on yarn
microns and fabric
Count / Gram Co-efficient of variation Determines the number of
CV% between sample repetitions repetitions necessary for
good statistics
SCN cnt/g Number of seed coat neps Analysis of processing
in one gram of material equipment
SCN size Average diameter of seed Determines impact on yarn
coat neps and fabric

- Critical nep size in sliver for different counts

SITRA 14
 Neps in sliver & neps in yarn (Card sliver for
carded counts & combed sliver for combed counts)

Neps distribution in card sliver & neps in yarn

Neps Neps in sliver & yarn (Medium & Neps in sliver & yarn (Fine &
Neps in sliver & yarn (Coarse &
distribution in Fine counts) – Sample – 2 Super Fine counts) – Sample – 3
Medium counts) – Sample - 1
sliver

Nep size in Neps in Neps in

Neps in sliver Neps in yarn Neps in yarn Neps in yarn
sliver sliver sliver

(Microns) Count (Neps / Count (Neps / Count (Neps /

(Neps / gm) (Neps / gm) (Neps / gm)
(Ne) gm) (Ne) gm) (Ne) gm)

450 and above 90 20sK 12 144 40sK 75 15 60sC 35

550 and above 55 30sK 22 76 50sK 146 9 80sC 48

650 and above 35 40sK 54 52 60sK 205 5 90sC 61

750 and above 22 50sK 92 32 2 100sC 71

850 and above 20 25 Nil

950 and above 14 19 Nil

SITRA 15
 Neps / gm in sliver and yarn

(Neps / gm)
in Neps / gm
Count Neps size in
in yarns
(Ne) sliver (Microns) Card Comber
sliver sliver
20s K 950 & above 14 - 12
20sC 950 & above - 4 3
30sK 750 & above 22 - 22
30sC 750 & above - 6 7
50sK 450 & above 90 - 92
50sC 450 & above - 24 22

SITRA 16
Neps in card sliver above the critical size and yarn neps

Neps / gm
Critical
Sample in sliver Neps / gm
Count (Ne) Neps size
number (above the in yarn
(Microns)
critical size)
1 22 22
30s 750 2 37 35
3 46 44
4 55 54
40s 550 5 76 75
6 96 93
7 90 92
50s 450 8 123 126
9 149 147

SITRA 17
 Increase in imperfections when count is made finer

1. A mill produces 40sC yarn with a total imperfections of 65/km

- Thin places – 3/km
- Thick places - 20/km
- Neps - 42/km
Suppose if the count is made fine to 46s (Mixing – same), what
is the expected level of imperfection?

SITRA 18
 Increase in imperfections when count is made Finer (contd.)
Answer for Question no. 1
- Thin / Thick places varies as the square of the count

- Neps varies as C 3/2

- Thin & Thick places in 46s C

46 2
= 23 X
40
= 23 x 1.32
= 31

-Neps in 46s C = 42 X 46 3/2

40
= 42 X 1.23
= 52
Total Imperfection = 31 +52
= 83 SITRA 19
 Imperfections in P/C blended yarns

2. In a given count of yarn, imperfections (Uster) in Polyester

yarns will always be lower then that of Cotton yarns. This is
attributed to the better fibre length uniformity in Polyester
(as compared to Cotton) which results in better drafting
behaviour in a given drafting set up.

However, when P/C blended yarns are spun, imperfections

in the blended yarns are somewhat higher as compared to
what one would expect based on weighted average value of
imperfections in 100% Cotton yarns and 100% Polyester
yarns.

This is attributed largely to the incompatibility between the

two fibres in terms of fibre length, fibre to fibre friction
(caused by difference in linear density of the fibres) etc.
SITRA 20
 Imperfections in P/C blended yarns (contd.)
SITRA has made an Analysis of the level of imperfections
obtained in 100% Cotton yarns, 100% Polyester yarns and P/C
blended yarns in member mills. The analysis has shown that the
excess imperfections (excess over what is expected based on
weighted average) is influenced by the proportion of Polyester in
P/C blended yarns.

Table 1 Excess Normal imperfections over expected for every

1 % addition of Polyester in P/C yarns
(C = Combed Cotton)
Count 67% Polyester/ 50% Polyester/
(Ne) 33% Cotton blends 50% Cotton blends
30s 2.0 to 2.5 1.5 to 2.0
40s 2.5 to 3.0 2.0 to 2.5
60s 4.5 to 5.0 4.0 to 4.5

SITRA 21
 Imperfections in P/C blended yarns (contd.)

Answer for Question no. 2

Normal Imperfections in 30s C Cotton yarn (say) = 50

Normal Imperfections in 30s 100% Polyester yarn (say) = 30
Blend proportion (say) = 67/33% (P/C)
Expected Normal imperfections based on weighted
Average = 37.0

Actual normal imperfections in blended yarns is calculated as follows:

Actual – Expected X 100 = 2.0 ( from Table5)

Expected 67

Actual – Expected = 2.0 x 67/100 x 37= 50.0

Actual normal imperfections / km = 50.0 + 37.0 = 87.0

SITRA 22
 Imperfections in P/C blended yarns (contd.)
Answer for Question no. 2

Normal Imperfections in 60s C Cotton yarn (say) = 100

Normal Imperfections in 60s 100% Polyester yarn (say) = 80
Blend proportion (say) = 50/50% (P/C)
Expected imperfections based on weighted average = 90.0

Actual normal imperfections in blended yarns is calculated as follows :

Actual – Expected X 100 = 4.0 ( from Table5)

Expected 50

Actual – Expected = 4.0 x 50/100 x 90 = 180

Actual normal imperfections / km = 180 + 90 = 270.0

SITRA 23
Fiber properties obtained in HVI mode (using HVI
calibration cotton) & ICC mode
(using international calibration cotton)

Testing Mode Fibre Properties obtained

a. HVI Upper Half Length (UHML)
Uniformity Index (UI) Bundle strength
& Elongation Fineness
b. ICC 2.5% span length (2.5% SL)
Uniformity ratio(UR) Bundle strength
& Elongation Fineness

i. UHML(HVI) = 2.5% SL (ICC mode)

ii. ML(HVI) = 1.8 X 50% SL (ICC mode)
iii. Bundle Strength(HVI) = 1.25 X Bundle strength (ICC mode)
iv. Mic.Value (HVI) = Mic.Value (ICC)

SITRA 24
Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester

1. Lint generation attachment

2. Electronic yarn inspection board
3. Hairiness tester
4. Friction tester
SITRA 25
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)
1. Lint generation attachment

─ A specified length of yarn is run through the tester at constant

tension & speed . The liberated lint during the yarn traverse is
collected on a filter by air flow.
─ The collected lint is weighed and is taken as a measure of lint
generation potential of yarn
─ Different yarns using the same test can be compared
SITRA 26
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)
Lint shedding propensity of cotton yarns
Count Carded Combed
20sH 13.20 7.00
30sH 27.20 14.00
40sH 12.00 7.80
40sW 6.30 5.70
Lint shedding propensity of compact & ring yarns
Yarn type Lint generation (μg / m)
Compact yarn 50s CW 1.14
Ring yarn 50s CW 2.20
Compact yarn 60s CW 0.43
Ring yarn 60s CW 1.80
Lint shedding propensity of ring and rotor spun yarns
Yarn type LSP (μg / m) Yarn type LSP (μg / m)
10s Rotor OE yarn 1.28 18s Rotor OE yarn 1.36
10s Ring yarn 17.28 18s Ring yarn 8.00
14s Rotor OE yarn 1.28 20s Rotor OE yarn 1.26
14s Ring yarn 12.24 20s Ring yarn 14.66
SITRA 27
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)

2. Electronic yarn inspection board

1. The EIB’s method of grading yarn is accomplished by a digital optical analysis

technique with associated software. This instrument has two software programs,
yarn profiler and EIB software. In both software programs the yarn is run and
scanned between the light source and camera at a rate of 2 scans per mm when
running at a speed of 100 m / min. Information from the camera is digitized and
transmitted to the computer. The ‘yarn profiler’ produces a profile image of the yarn.
2. This immediately gives the user a visual understanding about structure of the yarn.
3. Criteria for counting an event or defect is based on the event’s diameter and length.
The event’s length and diameter must cross a pre-selected threshold.
SITRA 28
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)
2. Electronic yarn inspection board (contd..)
Based on the number of faults in the yarn under question,
EIB instrument assigns a number called ‘TEV’ to the yarn which
stands for Total EIB Value. It also assigns a grade to the yarn. A
model yarn test report of EIB instrument is shown below:

SITRA 29
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)

SITRA’s prediction expression connection TEV

with frequent & infrequent yarn faults
S x T x UT x √UN
TEV =
Ne
Where, S = Short thick faults / lakh m (A + B + C + D)
measured IN UCM

T = Long thin faults / lakh m (H + I) measured in

UCM

UT = Thick places (+50%) measured in UT4

UN = Neps (+200%) measured in UT4
Ne = Count of yarn spun
Correlation co-efficient = 0.96
Error of estimate = 9.68%
SITRA 30
 Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)
3. Friction tester
▬ Yarn to metal friction & yarn to yarn friction
▬ Yarn withdrawal at constant tension is utilised to
measure the friction co-efficients

By measuring the input & output tension, co-efficient

of friction (μ) is measured.
SITRA 31
 Keissoki Laserspot LSP
Instrument to measure yarn diameter & yarn hairiness

1. By irradiation of laser beam on yarn, interference fringes that

are proportional to yarn thickness appear at right angle to the
yarn. By measuring the expansion of the interference at the
right angle of the yarn, yarn thickness measured.

2. Hairiness causes the interference fringes, but the light spreads

in the direction of yarn running. The amount of diffused light
is proportional to hairiness.

SITRA 32
 Keissoki Laserspot (contd.)
─ The Instrument provide all satistical parameters for yarn dia
& hairiness.

─ The traverse speed can be varied from 8 to 400 m / min;

the most suitable yarn speed seems to be 100 m / min.
SITRA 33
 Classimat – 5

-Extended classification Matrix –

- Wide average of defects

SITRA 34
 Classimat – 5 (contd.)

Classification results of
classimat 5

Classification results of
classimat 3

Classification results of
classimat Quantum

SITRA 35
 Classimat – 5 (contd.)
─ Able to provide information on coloured foreign
fibres, vegetable matter & polypropylene fibres
present in the test sample in different classes.

Outlier analysis

- Defects outside the normal distribution

Eg. Imperfections (+50%, -50%, + 200%)

Mean value = X
SD = √X
3SD = √X
Expected range = X±3√X
Values outside this range

SITRA 36
 Classimat – 5 (contd.)

Outliers for
─ Thick & Thin places (NSLT)
─ Coloured foreign fibres
─ Vegetable matter – vcg
─ Polypropylene – PP
─ Unevenness
─ Imperfections ─ Standard Classes
─ Imperfections ─ Sensitive classes
─ Hairiness
─ Automatic comparison with uster statistics
─ Automatic comparison with internal ‘Bench Marks’.

SITRA 37