EXP. NO.

5 DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERNS FOR MEN’S SHIRT

DATE:

1. AIM

To design and develop the pattern for Men’s Shirt.

2.1 General Objective

a. To design and develop the pattern for Men’s Shirt.

2.2 Specific Objective

a. To design and develop the Men’s Shirt.

b. To measure the selected dress form of men.
c. To draft the pattern for Men’s Shirt for the required components of a style.
d. To finish the drafted pattern with pattern details such as style name,
component name, grainline and cut number.

3. Materials Required
a. Pattern sheets
b. Ruler scale
c. Pencil – eraser
d. French curve
e. Measuring tape
f. Tracing wheel
g. Paper cutting scissors

4. Men’s Shirt
A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body (from the neck to the waist).
Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American
English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and
undergarments. A shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.
 A dress shirt is a special shirt which men wear on formal occasions. It is worn
with a dinner jacket and bow tie.

Fig. 5.1 Men’s Formal Shirt Front and Back

4.1 Measurements Required

Note: All measurements are in cm.

a. Shirt Length -
b. Shoulder Width -
c. Sleeve Length (Extra Long) -
d. Neck Circumference -
e. Chest Circumference -
f. Waist Circumference -
g. Hip Circumference -
h. Wrist Circumference -

4.2 Drafting Procedure

4.2.1 Front

1–2 Full length + 1 inch

1–3 ¼ Chest circumference – (1/2 inch), Armscye depth
 1–4 1/6 Neck measure
4–5 1 inch as per draft
5–6 ¾ inch for button stand
6–7 1 ½ inches for placket
1–8 ½ Shoulder width + ½ inch for sem
8–9 as per draft
3 – 10 1/3rd Chest measure
4 – 11 1/6th Neck measure
11 – 12 draw line as per draft
11 – 13 1 inch as per draft
8 – 14 1 ½ inches Shoulder slope
2 – 15 Same as 3 – 10
15 – 16 4 ½ inches as standard measure
15 – 17 5 ½ inches as standard measure
9 – 18 1 inch as per draft
19 Midpoint of 9 & 14
19 – 20 Shape armscye and sideseam as per the sketch.

4.2.2 Back
21 – 22 Full length + 1 inch
21 – 23 ¼ Chest circumference (-) 1/2 inch ; Armscye depth
21 – 24 Nape to waist + ½ inch
21 – 25 ½ Shoulder width + ½ inch
25 – 26 draw as per draft
23 – 27 1/3 Chest circumference (-) 1 ¼ inches
28 as per draft
21 – 29 1 inch as per draft
25 – 30 1 inch as per draft
28 – 31 4 ½ inches as per draft
28 – 32 5 ½ inches as per draft
26 – 33 1 ¼ inches at 45°
Shape Armscye and Sideseam as per the sketch.

4.2.3 Yoke or Shoulder Part

1–2 1/8th chest +1/2”.
1–3 ½ shoulder width +1/2” for seam.
3–4 draw a line.
4–5 1/2” as per draft.
1–6 1/6th neck + ¾”.
6–7 2” noted as per draft.
6–8 1”as per draft.
3 –9 2”as per draft.

4.2.4 Long/ Full Sleeve

1-2 Sleeve length +1/2”(-) cuff with 2 ½” .
1–3 1/8th chest (-) ½”.
3-4 1/4th chest +1/2”.
5 -2 ½ cuff + 1 ½”.
5-6 1/2” as per draft.
7 middle or 5-2 measure.
7-8 4 ½” sleeve pocket open.
9 ½ or 1-4.
9 - 10 1”,4,10,1 back arm shape is to be drawn
11 middle of 9-4 measure.
12 - 11 ¾” as per draft. 4, 12, 9, 1.draw the front arm as per draft.

4.2.4 Cuff Draft

1–2 Cuff width
1–3 Cuff length to be cut on fusible interlining as stiffer portion.
Sleeve placket length 5”.
Width 1 1/4:”.
Box 1 ¼” as ready portion and added all around ½” for seam margin.
4.2.5 Collar/ Collar Fall
1-2 ½ neck measure
2-4 2” as standard.
2-5 3/8” as per draft.
4-6 3/8” as per draft.
7-5 collar point 3 1/8”.

4.2.6 Neckband
8-9 ½ neck measure
9 - 10 1 3/8” as per draft.
11 - 8 1 3/8” as per draft.
10 - 12 1 3/8” as per draft.
10 – 14 1/8” as per draft.
To be cut fusible interlining allow to cut self - fabric along with seam margin
necessarily ½”.
4.3 SKETCHES OF PATTERNS

Fig. 5.2 Drafted Patterns of Shirt Components

5. POST EXPERIMENT QUESTIONS
5.1 List out the types of textile materials that can be used for shirts.

5.2 Illustrate the different types of cuffs.

5.3 Identify the design features incorporated in semi formal shirts or casual shirts.

5.4 List any 5 types of National and International brands of shirts.

5.5 State the term Placket.

5.6 Analyze the major difference between the men’s shirt and women’s shirt.

6. STIMULATING QUESTIONS

6.1 Analyze whether the reversible shirts could be made? If so, then identify the
seaming techniques that can be used in reversible shirts.

7. RESULT