Table of Contents Bolonced Serger Stitches Four-Thread Serging Reinforcing Tape Application Soft Gathering Three-Thvead Serging Fdge Hemming and Finishing Lingerie Seams Lace Joining Multipurpose Guide Foot Durable Three-Theead Blind Hem Decorative Serging Decorative Thread Serging asic Three-Thread Flatlock Flatlock Topstitching Flatlock Appliqué Decorative Lace ‘and Tape Application Rolled Edge Napkin Finish Rolled Edge Tablecloth Edging Formal and Bridal Wear Scarf Edge Rolled Hem Spaghett straps Fabric Flowers Stitch Variations ~ Heitloom Pin Tucking Heirloom Lace insertion Gathering Foot Quick Start Guide.Balanced Serger Stitches ‘+ Balanced stitches are used in construction applications such a5 seams, overcasting, edgings and finishes. + balanced three- or four-thread stich has both looper theeads meeting oF knitting at the outside edge of your fabri See your manual for more information on balancing 2 sich, Four-Thread Serging aE + The foursthvead sth aio called the mock safety stitch + Thisstiteh creates a very durable yet flexible seam +The four-thread stitch is created by using both needles and the loopers. +The right (or inside) needle creates a safety stitch between the left or Upper looper ‘outside needle) and the fabric edge. Lower looper By ‘Threed standard sewing Removable stith finger on Fabric any ‘Sitch length 3.0-40 Foot all purpose 1g Tape Application Shoulder seams often sag if not reinforced or stabilized. fourshesd Imockssiey sith * To reinforce a seam, simply lace a length of narrow twill ape along the crear seam line before sewing and serge it into the seam Tight needle” 49 ~SST~CS*C ‘i You want the tape to be las visible, substitute a coordinating narrow a ‘washable satin ribbon for the wil pe Upper looper 40 Stitch Tength 30-40 Foot al puposeSoft Gathering + Wing te fouahreod sich and your deren you can make sf stitch fourtiend gathered ruffes Instant ee “i Rey ioe Ta + tet nematon antsy sage eto ee of or Right needle s be Ue opera ine ope bier 20 jae Sn Sng — ionoeaa—— a aime ‘Three-Thread Serging ‘+ Balanced three-thread seams have more stretch than a four-thread stitch Stic) testing, "Grave gral edn concn of tnt garment EEN gered ther arecreated ying ony ofthe 2 needles Ta — + Use the et neal for a wider sich 49 Loner oper 40 | Difeenial 9-20 is Knife 49-30 | wed slong | Bitch anger oo + Use the riaht needle for a narrow stitch. Fae) ea ee = Fog its Fac pao ho edn eee i aye ARITA ITTOINRNEN Hichingh 30-20 | | iota — —— Edge Hemming and + Decorative stitches are generally three-thread stitches. ing z + Edge finishing or overcating isa good way to keep woven fabric ‘rom raveling, + A balanced three-thread stitch i a perfect lightweight finish,Lingerie Seams + A balanced three-thread stitch is a perfect lightweight seam for lingerie. reer fect seam and finish for your lingerie projec. Diferentiad 0-15 Thwead tend Seng Removable slit finger enor ff Fabric ict Foot all purpoze Lace Joining +The serger if @ good way to join laces and finish the edge at the stitch ttre theead same time Ivrow stich __s Use the setup at left and you are ready to join laces Beautifully Right eedle 40 and professionally. Upper looper 0 zs Lower looper 40 Differential 0-15 Thead standard seving Removable stitch finger off Fabric loc Stitch length 25-35 Foot all purposeMultipurpose Guide Foot + The blind hem foot is also called the muitipurpose guide foot + The guide is movable from left to right and can be used withthe let or right needle + We use ths foot in many decorative sith applications to guide our fare. Durable Three-Thread Blind Hem stitch three ned vide seh Leftneedle 20 Upper oper 50 Lower looper 30 Differential 0-15 weit so Thread sand sg Removable Sitch Ting on Fabric Decorative Serging + The blind hem is basic to knit sewing. This hems lightweight, ofers stretch and is neariy invisible + Use your blind hem foot. You will need to practice on a scrap of your fabri o get the guide adjusted correctly + This adjustment wil change according to the weight or thickness of your fabric. ‘For more information, please see your machine manual. + by unbalancing your tensions, you can create some very interesting effects, We call this decorative serging or serger embellishing. + Adding decorative threads to your serging creates many beautiful ‘opportunities for creative serging, Hine: Once a serger stitch is formed, itis a circle of thread, When we tighten fone thread, it pulls on another thread. When we lighten tension on fone thread, it allows itself and another to relax or move within the Circle. Thinking of the stitches inthis way will help you to create the look that you want with your choice of threads. Learning: Set your serger for a balanced wide three-thread stitch as shown earlier in this book. Loosen your needle tension to #2. Serge on a ‘crap for about 2 inches. Begin to serge again but try applying a ight pinch pressure to one looper thread {just above the tension) and then the other. Observe the changes that occured on the serged scrap. Next, set the tensions back toa balanced stitch. Loosen one of the looper tensions and pinch the threads in turn again while erging Observe the changes tothe stitch formationDecorative Thread Sergi Basic Three-Thread Flatlock sae fat Leftneedle —1.0(widel or Aight eel 1.0 (sou) Upper oper 45 Lowe looper 7.08 Difereniol 0 Knife 30-40 Teed snd eng Removable Fabric any _ Stchlength 30-80 + Decorative threads can be used in both the needles and the loopers + Decorative threads vary in weight, fiber, shape and thickness. +The thicker the thread, the lighter the tension needed + Thickness of thread is usually indicated on the spool. The lower the umber, the thicker the thread + Heavier decorative threads are used in the loopers only ‘+ Most machine embroidery threads are M40 to 50 weight and can be used inyour serger needles or loopers. "+ Flatlock isa technique in which we unbalance the stitch to create the stitch that we want. + Flatlock can be used to join two fabrics or serged on a fold + We can use the stitch loop sie or the ladder side as the top side. + When stitching on a fold, oF anytime you don’t want to cut the edge, Use the guide foot to guide your fabric and protect the edge Ladder Side + To achieve aflatlock, our needle thread tension is loosened and our lower looper thread is tightened + The lower looper will pull the needle thread acras the back ofthe fabric + Note the reverse side of the stitch, the needle thread forms V's. + The lower looper should be almost a straight line at the fabric edge as i AF)Flatlock Topstitching stitch Left needle fac Upper looper 20-30 Lower looper 10-60 Removable site finger Fabric Stith length Foot any 20-50. bind her Flatlock Appliqué stitch Leftneedle Uppe: looper Lower looper Differential, rife Thread Removable stitch finger Fabric Stitch Tenath Foot fated 20 25 60-80 0 50 decorative hea ay Ras ind hen + Set your machine using the settings below. Test your stitch on a scrap of {fabric and adjust tensions if needed. + Serge topstitching can be done inthe body ofthe fabric by serging on @ fold and opening it + Serger topstitching can be used to seam two fabrics together. Remember to lay the wrong sides ofthe fabrc together before serging Flatiock can give a great eye-catching Finish to a plain edge ribbon, lace or ‘fabri strip while attaching at the same time. 1. Attach the multipurpose foot guide and testa scrap of folded fabric. ‘just the guide until the serger loops hang over the edge of the fold slighty. 2. simply mark your fabric where you want the appliqué. The easiest way 10-do this to press the two folds where you Want the applique to fit. 3. Lay your appliqué piace on the fabric, matching the edge withthe fold, and place under the presser foot against the guide, 4, Serge the appliqué and fabric to the end. Cut chain and open the fabric so the fabric ays fat, 5, Turn your fabric and fold the second marking fold. Make sure that the Annlius piace laye flat on the fabric and mente the fold 6, Place the fabric appliqué on top under the foot and against the guide 7. Serge this side of the appliqué and fabric to the end. Cut chain and ‘open the fabric so the flatlock lays straightDecorative Lace and Tape Application Stith Left nese Upper looper Fabric Rolled Edge stitch Right needle Upper looper Lower looper Differential, Keife Thee Removable stitch finger Fabric Stith length Foot Aatloc 20 25 60-80 0-07 30-50 coratve hea any R35 binder role ee a0 a0 as on 60 andr off sof vey light woven 20-30 all purpose “These ae quick and easy ways to apply ribbon or lace to garments or craft projects. Flatiacking lace to the body or te edge of your fabric adds a beautiful look 1. Attach the multipurpose feot guide, set up your machine using the instructions at left and testa scrap of folded fabric. Adjust the guide Lunt the serger loops hang slightly over the edge of the fold 2. Simply mark your fabrie where you want the lace to be sewn. The easiest ‘way t0 do thsi to press a fold where you wil place the lace, 3. Lay your lace on the fabric matching the edge with the fold and place Under the presser foot against the guide. 4. Serge the lace and fabric to the end, Cut chain and open the fold so the fabric lays fat Flatiocking ribbon is similar to fatlocking lace. Choose a ribbon that wil fit between the needle and the edge of the fabric, Take care not to let the needle pierce he ribbon while swing, ‘The rolled edge and its variations are probably the most used and versatile ofall decorative stitches. Variations of the rolled edge make the perfect hems or edgings for napkins, curtains, ruffles, scarves, tablecloths, and so much more! At left are the Setup instructions fot the besie rolled ee General rules: Tension and stitch-length settings will vary with the threads “you use, Koife settings will vary with the fabrie you uteNapkin stitch Right needle Uppe looper Lower looper Differential, kite Thread Removable site finger Fabric Stitch length Foot Tablecloth Edging (wi site Let nese Upper oper Lower looper Diferentat, tile Tweed Removable Sch nger Fabre Stitch enath Foot h Rolled Edge (narrow) arate ge “0 50 10 ‘07-0 30-50 standard seving of Fghtweght woven R all purpose rol edge wide 40 50 70 07-0 50-60 stand seing of Toho heavyueght woven + Using the set up instructions at lft, set your serger for rolled edge. (Check your manual for information about removing the sith finger. + The setup instructions reflect tensions using standard sewing thread, ‘You may have to adjust any tension setting for changes in thread type. + Always allow your knife to shave the edge of your fabric creating an teven and consistent fabric edge, ce i NOTE: Fabric that has an uneven texture may not be successfully elged with ‘2 narrow rolled hem. + Some fabrics are too heavy oF too loosely woven to rol successfully using ‘the narraw rolled hem + Try the setup at left and create a wide rolled hem, + tf the fabric doesn't rll lengthen the stitch. The longer the stitch, the more able iis to olla heavier fabric + This hem also gives a litle more body to medium weight fabricFormal and Bridal Wear Beautiful effects can be created for formal wear using your serger and afew simple techniques, Scarf Edge Rolled Hem *+ chitfon and satin, as wel as other delicate fabrics, require a delicate hem. stitch Fight needle 40 Upper looper 40 lowertooper 75 Differential 0.7 +The scarf edge rolled hem is perfect for these applications. Kite 60 Thaend 0 Removable stiteh finger off Fabric Sof wey Fghtweght woven SitchTength 20-30 Foot ail pupes Spaghetti Straps Spaghetti straps are a must for formal and bridal wear, lingerie, and many stitch ‘ery naw ‘other applications bance Fight needle 40 Upper looper 40 lLowerlooper 40 Differential 0 kite 20-30 Thread standard seing oe 1. Cut 1 "strip of bias or knit fabric and fod in half lengthwise. stitch finger _ off 2, Place folded strip under the presser foot (fold to the let) and serge the Fabric lghtocght ‘wo raw edges together making sure to leave atleast 2” of serger chain Stith length 20-30 3. Thread the serger chain through a tapestry or yarn needle eye and all purpose knot i to hold to chain securely. (No appropriate needle? A bobby pin vil ot) 4, Feed the needle and chain through the inside of the tube and turn the strap right side out as you go.Fabric Flowers stich Right needle Upper looper Lowe looper Differential Kite Thread Removable stitch finger Fate Stith Tenath Foot 10 rar rl 40 4 soft very Tghelgh woven 20-30 all pupose Have you ever noticed those beautiful flowers or chiffon ruffles on mary formal dresses? Your rolled edge and some 20# or 508 fishing line i all you neec! ‘One key to beautiful ruffles and flowers i to use fabric cut on the bias 1. Set your serger for a narrow rolled edge, 2. Cuta 3" bias strip of fabric (a bias cut on a 45" fabric is about 56-58" long) 3. Place the spoo! af fishing line atthe front or right side of your machine ‘where it will be convenient for you. 4, Feed the end ofthe fishing line through the smal hole inthe frant of ‘the toe ofthe standard foot of your serger. Then bring it back toword ‘the rear of the foot, making sure thatthe lines very close to the fabric bea. Allow about 12" of extra line to remain on this end of the line behind the serger. Turn your serger’s handhee! and secure the line down with two or three stitches. Note that you will hve to guide the Tine alittle as you go to make sure the knife doesn cu it while you are sewing, 5. Place one long edge of bias strip under the presser foot and begin to serge feeding the fishing line as you go. The rolled edge stitch wl {encase the fishing line and your edge, 6. When you come to the end of your fabric, measure an additional 12° of line from the toe and eut the line, Unthread the 12° from the hole on| the foot, raise the presser foot, and bring the line under the foot and off to the let side out of the way ofthe needle and the knife. Serge off ‘and clip your serger chain, 7. Gently smooth the fabric over the line allowing the extra line to be pulled up into the flower’ edge. ‘8 Retuen your serge to a balanced four-thread stitch, an follow the soft {gather Instructions to finish the opposite edge. Finish by further gather- ing the edge and forming your flower using a hand needle and thread, Using some of the stitches that you have learned, now you can create beau: ‘ful heirloom stitches quickly and easly, with afew setup changes, ‘The stitches in the photo to the right are simply rolled edge and flatlock variations are a very good example of vertial pin tucking,Tucking Such roldee fightneede 40 Upper looper 4.0 Bae Lower oper 75 Differential sie Thread Removable sith finger of Fabre ‘oft vey a gregh woven Sitch iength 10-25, Foot Bind hen Heirloom Lace Insertion Aik 10-20 ie secaes 0-80 Diferenval 0-07 fale aed Tweed ighight Sortie Sanda sing Renorale itch finger of Fabric ig Stitch length 20-40 Feat Bin ren Serger pin tucks are simply a rolled edge setup stitched on the fold of fabric Pin tucks do not ral Using the multipurpose guide foot keeps the folded edge ofthe fabric close tothe needle and ellows extremely straight, narrow and delicate stitches. Vertical pintucking should be serged in one ditection on half of your pane! {and the fabric tured and then serged the ather direction onthe other half 1. Mark your lines for stitching by pressing in folds to be serged. 2, Ifyou are creating a panel with vertical pin tucks, determine the Center of your pane! and work out ‘ward one side at a time 3. Serge down each of your pin tuck lines Your guide foot wil help you ‘make perfect pin tucks, Serger lace insertion is simply 2 narrow latlock setup Using the multipurpose guide foot keeps the edge of the fabric and lace lose to the needle and allows extremely straight, narrow and delicate stitches, Flatlock should be serged in one direction on the fist side of the insertion and serged the other direction on the other sid. ‘The loop or the ladder side may appear on the surface ofthe insertion, ‘The loop side will appear to be a tim, the ladder side appears as delicate hand stitches joining the fabric to the lace. Fold the fabric edges you will be fatlocking the lace to back " and press, (We wil refer to the wrong side of the fabric as the side that the Faw edge was folded to.) Lay your insertion lace on the folded edge of your fabric. f your fabric Is laying wrong side up, the loops will appear on the right side of the Tabric. Likewise if your fabre i laying right sie up, the ladder side will ‘appear on the right side of the fabric Serge from top to bottom. Open the fltlocked fabric and lace so they ie flat. 4. Lay your next piece of fabri with the SAME SIDE UP that you used in the Second step on a flat surface. Lay your serged piece on top, Make sure the lace meets the old and your pieces af fabs are arranged s0 that the same sides face each other. Serge the lace and fold together (Open this sie of the fabric and see how lovely and delicate this technique is NOTE: Insertion lace is fat (not gathered) and has straight edges on both ledges. Practice this technique and test your stitch length and threads using Jnexpensive prepackaged hem lace that can be found in the tapes display wherever you buy fabric and notions. "Gathering Foot Quick Start Guide 2 ‘Your serger gathering foots designed to be used to gather fabric that is placed under the foot or to gather one fabric into another (hitting) by placing @ second fabric through the slot and above the separator plate ‘The gathering foot accelerates the gather produced by the diferential feed dog creating beautiful cuffles and gathers in light to midweight fabric. Getting Ready ‘Always test a strip of your fabric frst to determine the rate at which it will gather Settings: For optimum gathering, use 4 threads (both needles), set your differential 10 2, your stitch length to d and your presser foot pressure to light to moderate pressure. ‘The numbers on the differential dial represent the rate at which the itferential (front) feed dog is feeding nto the take up (tear) feed dos. ‘The number 2 represents thatthe eltferental feeding at a ratio of 2t0 1 Ifyou wish t0 use the serger to less fully gather fabri, simply adjust the ifferential down and testa strip ofthe fabric you will be using + The differential will gather different fabries at different rates according to the fabric's weight and finish. Always test strips of your fabric before bathering. + Gathers may be adjusted within the length ofthe gathered strip, + You may create lovely single layer ruffles by ist serging a ralled edge to ‘yout fabric to be ruffled and gathering the opposite edge, ‘Adapting your pattern or plan for serger gathering Because the serger isa different way to gather, you may have to plan your sewing alittle different. Creating an exact fiting gather is difficult ‘Therefore, we suggest that you take the time to look at your project and fabric to see what changes you may need to make before you start First, testa strip of your fabric by measuring the length ofthe strip before ‘and after gathering, Compare the two and you will know the best ratio, that you can achieve with that fabric: int: Gather fabric or rte toa base fabric and finish seams as. Shirring a ski {choose a pattern with straight seam lines on the ses that willbe joined With the serger such as side seams, lower bodice seam, hem and waistline. into a bodice or waistline. Then measure your skirt fabric pattern atthe waist and compare it to the measurement of the bodice you will be gathering the fabric to. Compare this to the ratio of your test strip. This will help you to determine if your fabric is suitable and wil give you enough Fulinss to successfully serger ther the pattern and fabric that you ate planning to ure. ‘You may gather your skit directly onto the bodice (shirring) or gather the Waistline fist and ft ito the bodice and sew or serge the two together in 2 second step. I you decide to gather and seam in one step, cut your fabric according to ‘he pattern atthe top and bottom but adding several inches in with, This extra fabri wil allow you some flexibility when serger gathering. Serge the Skirt to the bodice and trim excess from the sides making sure that you are futting equal amounts from top to bottom.Gathering Foot Quick Start Guide (continued) _ Finish serging the rest ofthe garment ‘To maximize fullness, strips were cut and shirred together one at atime, ‘Adding a ruffle atthe armhole replaces the need for facings on a sleeveless ‘garment ‘Gumbo Rick Rack was sandwiched In between fabrics before seaming to ‘create decoration on bodice) Shirring Curtain Ruffles Curtain ruffles should be made ina similar fashion a above skirt application Fdge the strip to be ruffled, then shir the ruffle to curtains, tem excess ruffle length and finish, Pillows or other Closed Ruffle Projects Sometimes as with a pillow, edges ofa rufle will be joined (closed) before Traditional Ruffle: Test your fabric determine the ratio and cut your fabric strip to the appropriate length to go around the projec. Join the ends of your strip to be ruffled. Serger gather the stip making Sure to leave 2-3” of serger chain atthe beginning and at the end of. ‘gathering. Mark your ruffe in Vaths. Mark your project in tthe. Match the markings and ease the ruffle into each 1/4th. Sew or serge the ruffle to the project. Fast Rule applications: Consider gathering the ruffle strip fist and then fitting it to the pillow. See step by step instructions at left, Cut your strip to be gathered 6" to 8° longer then you will ned to go around the pillow. Create your ruffle by gathering It on the serge, ‘Secure one end of the ruffle inthe seam line of your projec, leaving 2-4" fee Fit the remainder ofthe rule tothe edge of your project securing as need fed. Whien you get to the first end of your stria, overlap the two ends at least 4-2" bending the ends into the cutting line so thatthe ends are not joined, but rather are decoratively overlapped. Sew of serge the ruffle in place. For the pillow finish ilustrasted below, 8 strips were cut, each strip was frst edged with a rolled hem and then trimmed to 2 curve at each end, Gathering the strips down the entire raw edge creates lovely ruffles, ‘The ruffles can then be placed on the pillow front and serged. Fan) Thispllow was designed to be ( serger finished and demonstrates 2 beautiful way to adapt to using the serger to gather ruffles easily 13