3/11/20

Day 17 Class Notes

I. Mental Warmup “The Boy Next Door” ​Meet me in St. Louis
A. Judy Garland’s singing is beautifully melodic
B. Her acting is so natural and beautiful
C. An interesting song about the boy next door, and his role in her life
II. Esée Lauder cont.
A. In the 1950s makeup was a symbol of femininity and societally expected to be
worn at all times
B. In the 1960s (counterculture movement)
1. One set of beauty was challenged as women from various age groups,
ethnicities and political affiliations challenged what it meant to be
feminine
2. Increase in eye makeup and less lipstick
3. The essential question of what it means to be feminine
4. 1960s was a decade of the teenager with trends geared heavily towards the
young demographic
5. Fashion icons such as Twiggy came on to the scene and changed the look
6. Daughters wanted a barely touched up look, moved into eye makeup and
body pain
7. Teenage females made up 11% of the population and the cosmetic
industry advertised towards them
a) Thanks to postwar economy teens could afford makeup products
b) The emergence of teen magazine and advertisements geared for
teens
c) Teenagers were tired of the stifling fifties conformity
(1) Wanted freedom through innovative dress
8. Eye makeup became quite artistic and dramatic among young women in
the 1960s
a) Dramatic eye makeup consisted of thick black eyeliner and drawn
on bottom lashes
9. Disillusionment with government at the time
10. Many women in 1967 went to hippie festivals in San Francisco “the
Summer of Love” wanted to be in a free loving and peaceful environment
11. Makeup trend in the hippie counterculture heavily focused on the natural
look with minimal makeup
a) Advertisers caught wind of changing trends among disillusioned
young adults and began marketing products toward the growing
demographic
 12. Another popular makeup trend was colorful face paints
a) Bright rainbow colors applied all over the body
b) Women drew colorful flowers and peace signs on their faces and
bodies giving rise to the “flower child” terms
13. Group of teens was disillusioned that they used cosmetics to portray love
and peace in the world
a) Twiggy became a model for all of this
C. During the 40s and 50s most advertisements for African-American women
featured skin lightening and other aids to take the darkness out of the skin
1. Standard set before the 1960s was an emphasis on light skin and
downplaying traditional African features
2. Civil rights movement along with subsequent empowerment movements
allowed African-American women to reject tradition beauty standards
3. Civil rights movement helped establish new trends for African-American
women, embracing natural beauty
a) Became proud of natural beauty
b) 1968 African American women put on their own beauty pageant in
protest of the lack of diversity within Miss American
D. As the civil rights movement geared up discrimination in commercial beauty
culture became a more prevalent issue
1. African-American women were denied service in white-owned salons and
there were race-specific requirements for hairdressers and cosmetologists
within the beauty industry
2. “Black is beautiful” movement was everywhere
3. Four African-American women that led the way through this period
a) Diana Ross
b) Marilyn McCoo
c) Donna Summer
d) Whitney Houston
4. Cosmetic industry was harshly criticized by much of the feminist
movement
a) Argued that femininity kept women passive and vulnerable to
being sold products based on sexuality
5. Cosmetic companies responded to these protests by redesigning their
product packaging
a) Estée Lauder introduced a new line of products catered to feminists
and professionals
b) 1967 she introduced Clinique a line of products focused on
hygiene over beauty
 6. Political figures like Gloria Steinem and Germaine Greer wore makeup to
appeal to the audience
a) It is gross that women have to paint themselves to get
exposure/have a voice
E. Mary Kay Ash founded the company Mary Kay was a conservative woman who
believed in traditional ideals of womanhood
1. Created job opportunities for women, catering to women’s needs as
mothers and avowed women’s desires to look feminine
2. Said that women could do both: be the CEO and a mother
F. Estée Lauder later career
1. Became one of the richest self-made women in the world
2. Ran in elite social circles attending parties thrown by Nancy Reagan
a) Enjoyed warm relationship with many different famous figures and
royals
3. Never backed down
4. 1973 she reduced her role in day-to-day operations
a) Resigned her post as president but stayed on the board
5. 1983 she lost her husband
a) In his honor, she established the Joseph H. Lauder Institute of
Management and International Studies at the University of
Pennsylvania
6. Wrote a book in 1985 autobiography ​Estée: A Success Story
a) The company went public in 1995-valued at about $2 billion
G. Later life
1. Many philanthropic efforts
2. Died in NYC April 24th, 2004
H. “I never dreamed about success. I worked for it” -Estée Lauder
III. Mental Recharge: “Get Happy” ​Summerstock
A. Judy Garland performance and outfit goes viral
1. All timed perfectly with the music
B. The outfit is not what I would have expected from the 1950s
C. Tiny little baby tapping in her heels
D. Does not actually dance much in the video