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Chicken Rich: 7 Ways to Turn a Profit with Chickens
Copyright © 2018 by Delci Plouffe. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any way by
any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of
the author except as provided by USA copyright law.

Names, descriptions, entities, and incidents inlcuded in the story are products of the author’s
imagination. Any resemblance to actual persons, events and entities is entirely coincidental.

A Life of Heritage
Lewistown, MT 59457
www.alifeofheritage.com

Book design copyright © 2018 by Delci Plouffe. All rights reserved.

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Contents

10 Things You Need to Know to Profit Selling Your Farm Fresh Eggs .............7

How to Make a Profit Selling Day Old Chicks by Hatching Chicken Eggs .....16

How to Sell Laying Hens and Make a Profit (Complete Care Guide) ..............25

Complete Guide: How to Sell Hatching Eggs and Make a Profit .....................34

How to Start Poultry Farming with Broilers .....................................................42

How to Sell Chicken Feathers (&Ideas to Make Jewelry!) ................................58

How to Sell Chicken Manure (The Scoop on All That Chicken Poop!) ...........61

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1 10 Things You Need to Know to Profit Selling Your
Farm Fresh Eggs

I
opened up my Facebook app, ready to sell the half a dozen eggs that had suddenly
began popping out of my lovely hens as they cheered spring on.

Feast or famine, I tell ya!

"What a brilliant idea! I'll sell them on Facebook in the local groups! And I'll earn a
little bit extra to help pay for the feed! You girls are going to earn your keep!"

Yes! I have a plan!

Scroll...scroll...scroll... everyone. Everyone! Was selling their eggs!

"Farm Fresh Eggs", "Fresh Eggs", "4 Doz Eggs for Sale", "Too many eggs! Please take some!"

And sometimes, nobody had even responded to the posts.

Hmmm. Why was that? Well, it seems that everyone has a few chickens nowadays. Which is
really cool! I love that idea and new trend. Personally, I feel that there needs to be a revolution of
backyard farmers, however large or small, growing and raising their own food everywhere!

But what about the extra eggs I have? Obviously, there's still a need for eggs because our local
grocery store stocks shelves and shelves of those white, uniform, pale yoked eggs.

Do you have all those extra eggs too and a desire to have your chickens put in their time card to
earn their keep?

I understand! Animals, although wonderful and totally worth it, can add significantly to the bills
each month. It's a desire for many to have their animals be a blessing all the way around.

And with a little creativity, your extra eggs can bless your family and others by filling plates with
the rich, orange goodness of fresh farm food.

Before the ideas begin to flow on where and how to sell the extra eggs, there are a few really
important items to consider. This information will also be good to have handy to answer the
many questions your customers may ask.

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→ First Off, Egg Laws By State
This is the first place to start. Take your time knowing the laws of your state: Egg Laws By
State.

→ Farm Fresh Egg Facts

Are eggs with brown shells more nutritious than ones with white shells?

Nope! The color has absolutely nothing to do with how nutritious the contents of the egg are. But
the quality of food and care a chicken receives will affect the nutritional makeup of an egg.
Healthy Chickens=Healthy Eggs!

Do farm fresh eggs taste better than store bought eggs?

Many (most?) people will say that farm fresh eggs, with their rich, golden/orange yolk do in fact
taste better than store-bought eggs. The proof is in the pudding... isn't that what they say?

What is the red spot occasionally found in eggs?

This red spot is called a blood spot or "meat" spot. It is in no way harmful to eat and an egg can
be used as normal when this is present. The spot can also be taken out with the tip of a knife if
desired. It is caused by a rupture in a blood vessel of the hen when the egg is forming.

Is a cracked egg safe to eat?

They can be used with care. Use the cracked egg as quickly as possible but use them in recipes
that are cooked fully, never eat them raw in any way. And assure your customers that you do
check all eggs carefully for cracks before selling them.

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→ Farm Fresh Eggs Nutrition
Nutrition Facts of Fresh, Large Eggs
Calories 70 Sodium 70 mg
Total Fat 5g Potassium 70 mg
Saturated 2g Total Carbs 0 g
Polyunsaturated 0 g Dietary Fiber 0 g
Monounsaturated 0 g Sugars 0g
Trans 0g Protein 6g
Cholesterol 185 mg
Vitamin A 6% Calcium 2%
Vitamin C 0% Iron 4%

*Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet. Your daily values may be higher or
lower depending on your calorie needs. ~Source

Chickens raised in an environment that supports their natural eating habits will produce eggs that
are of higher quality and nutrition. They have lower cholesterol and will be higher in vitamins A,
D and E and omega-3 fatty acids. Chickens are not primarily vegetarians and eat a wide variety
of vegetable, fruits, bugs, and worms. For those living in the north, this is harder to provide for
chickens during the winter months but it can be done with some ingenuity.

And did you know that you can give more pigment, like the coveted dark orange, to your
chicken's egg yolks by feeding them foods like pumpkin, corn, basil, marigolds, carrots, red
cabbage, parsley, and the leaves of most green plants?

→ Farm Fresh Eggs vs Store Bought Eggs

There truly is a big difference in the care a chicken and their egg receives when comparing those
that come from a small farm or local residence to those chickens and eggs that come from a
commercial egg operation.

These are the main differences. Free range chickens are:

• Not kept in cages

• Fed more natural, non-processed foods

• Healthier and more resistant to disease

And free range chicken eggs are:

• Fresher
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• More nutrient dense

• Better tasting (because of all the points above)

And if that doesn't convince anyone listening or reading that farm fresh eggs are a much better
buy, I don't know what will!

→ How to Clean Farm Fresh Eggs

Cleaning eggs can be a touchy subject. Many people who raise chickens, including ourselves,
don't wash the eggs and also keep them on the counter until used. It's a common practice but not
everyone is privy to this idea.

When selling eggs, what is the best practice?

As a potential egg seller, it is important to know and to educate customers how eggs are "built".
An egg, when it is created and laid by a hen, is covered in a protective coat called the "bloom".
When this coat is removed by washing and especially improper washing, the egg is susceptible to
bacteria and spoilage.

If eggs are washed, they must be kept refrigerated. And there is a proper way to clean eggs.

As an egg seller, gather all the information and decide if you will wash your eggs or not. Either
way, inform your customers how you care for your eggs. If you wash them, wash them properly,
and remind your customers to keep the eggs refrigerated.

Proper Egg Washing:

1. Only wash eggs in warm water. Washing in cold water not only removes the bloom but
creates a vacuum inside the egg that sucks unwanted bacteria inside. Getting the water at
least 20 degrees warmer than the egg will protect the egg and not create the vacuum.
2. Try to stay away from chemicals, like bleach and soap products. Remember, eggs are
porous. If you have a commercial egg operation you may have to wash your eggs like
this.
3. Never let an egg just sit in water. Again, remember an egg is porous and this is more
detrimental than good.
4. Another option is using distilled white vinegar, diluted in half with water. This may also
be used as a cleaner and/or sanitizer for eggs. If cleaning, wipe each dirty egg with a new
paper towel dipped in the vinegar solution. ~Source

Proper Egg Handling when Not Washing Eggs:

1. If possible, use sandpaper to gently rub off the dirt. This keeps the egg from getting wet
and removing the protective bloom but also gently removes the dirt. The bloom is
removed in the areas the sandpaper is used, however.
2. When an extremely dirty egg is found, wash using the method mentioned above.
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 3. Remember to use the washed eggs first.
4. Remind your customers that they can wash their eggs right before use to maintain the
bloom and freshness of their eggs as long as possible.

There are several good practices to implement in keeping eggs as pristine as possible straight out
of the nest box.

• Keep the nest boxes clean and fresh with new straw or shavings on a regular basis. This will
help immensely in the battle to keep eggs clean.

• Provide roosts that are higher than the nesting boxes. Chickens love to roost on the highest
available spots as possible, so this will help in keeping them from roosting inside the boxes.

To wash or not to wash. Now you are well versed in proper egg washing and can keep your
customers informed and safe!

→ Farm Fresh Eggs Shelf Life

The shelf life of unrefrigerated eggs is between 7-10 days and refrigerating eggs increases their
shelf life to between 30 and 45 days. As a note of reference, an egg left on the counter for one
day has the same freshness as keeping that same egg in the fridge for 7 days. So if there is an
abundance of eggs that won't be used right away, refrigerating them will keep them fresh the
longest. It is said that they will keep up to 7 times longer.

→ Farm Fresh Egg Storage

Storing eggs properly is also very important and will also increase the shelf life of eggs. They
must be stored with their pointy end down. The air bubble is at the bigger end of the egg and this
proper storage will help keep extra moisture from leaving the egg.

And because eggs are porous, they will inherit the smell of anything stored around them. Store
them in a covered, closed or plastic wrapped container at all times.

Another great way to store eggs is by freezing them. They freeze really well and during the
winter months when production is lower, they can be happily used by you and your customers! If
you live in the north country where production drops with less light available, remind your
customers to buy more now, to freeze them for use in the winter months!

→ Farm Fresh Eggs Pricing

Finding and deciding on a fair price will take a bit of legwork, but it will be worth it to check
prices at your local grocery store and others who are selling eggs in the area. Are farm fresh eggs
worth $10 a dozen? Probably, considering all the equipment it takes to raise chicks and the feed
and care it takes to keep hens healthy. But will they actually sell at that price? Probably not.

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Some areas can sell their eggs for $5.00 or more, while in our area we are lucky to get $2.00 a
dozen.

It's a matter of finding a good price point for your area to get the most for your eggs at a price
people will buy at!

Here are a few ideas on how to find your competitors to check for pricing:

1. Find local Facebook groups for your specific area or town that are specifically for people
finding healthy, organic food or a group that is for items for sale or wanted. Keep an eye
out for posts about selling eggs
2. If your local grocery store sells organic eggs, check their pricing
3. Our area has a lot of Hutterites and Amish. Ask them their pricing
4. Watch for roadside stands, stop in and see if they sell eggs and their prices
5. If you know your neighbors, and they sell eggs, ask them!
6. Craigslist
7. Local feed stores may have an idea as well

→ Farm Fresh Egg Signs

And before we jump into the egg-cellent ideas to help you jump start your egg sales...you need a
cute sign to attract your customers! Here are a few ideas where these signs could be hung:

1. Farmer's market stand

2. Corner of your yard
3. On your roadside stand
4. And above the nest boxes...to remind your hens to lay eggs during the winter months ;)

→ Great Ideas to Help Sell Your Farm Fresh Eggs

After all of the above information is handled successfully and without any problems, this next
section will require a lot of creativity and thinking outside of the box. Why? Well, don't
forget...all of your neighbors are selling their farm fresh eggs too. You need to set yourself apart.

And doing that takes a bit of ingenuity and forethought but together we can get the best ideas out
on paper! And with a plan, anyone can move forward!

In all truthfulness, how are Dotty, Piper, and Stripe cared for? Give your chickens the absolute
best care, so that if a potential customer were to stop in for a visit to see where their food was
made, you can proudly show off your little chicken corner of the world. Showing off your
animals and property is a personal decision. Some view it as a potential hazard because shoes
and tires can bring in unwanted disease. Others view it as a wonderful way to connect with
people and minister to their customers.

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Providing your chickens with all of the nutritional requirements they need will give you and your
customer the satisfaction of a good meal. When you've done your part in providing a healthy
product, you can move on to the next lesson.

Let's fall back to grade school and what we had to repeat over and over:

Who, What, When, Where and How?

When dissecting a story, we had to ask these very short and concise questions.

And in our situation of wanting to sell more eggs, we know that the answer to “WHAT are we
selling” is quite simple: Eggs. We desire to sell our eggs at a reasonable price.

We can get more insight into our customer by asking the question: WHO are we selling our
eggs to?

Who are the people that are interested in farm fresh eggs and where can they be found? There is
a wonderful, new trend of people of all ages, desiring to have control over the food they feed
their families. These are the people to target.

WHERE do they hang out and how can their attention be caught to pay attention to your eggs
and buy them?

Many times these people are found helping at or utilizing these wonderful options available in
most communities:

 CSA Programs
 Farmer's Markets
 Local, Organic Delis or Coffee Shops
 Church, School Activities, Mom Groups, and Health, Gardening, and Fitness Classes
 Local Grocery Stores
 Gourmet Restaurants

But there are also ways of attracting these health-conscious people to us! With the right set up,
people can begin to call you for information about your farm fresh eggs. Here are a few ideas:

 Corner Stand (or Honor Stand)

 Front Yard Sign
 Word of Mouth
 Client List
 Friends and Family
 Facebook Groups

When you've found the place or places you can sell your eggs at or through, the fun begins!

And then we can begin to answer the question: HOW? How can we sell our eggs effectively
and for the most profit?
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The Poultry World brings up very good points that are often overlooked when thinking about
selling eggs.

What usually attracts people to items, objects or places?

It's another series of questions learned in grade school:

See, Hear, Touch, Taste, and Smell. Our five senses.

And these can be utilized in helping you sell your eggs!

In any type of schooling, they have found that children (and people of all ages!) learn the best
and respond the most when all senses are engaged. And this is also very helpful when attracting
customers!

When setting up a stand at a farmer's market or taking a quick picture of your eggs to post
somewhere, what can you do to make it LOOK appetizing, pleasing, or engaging? Would using
clear egg cartons show the beauty of your eggs in a better way? How can the background of the
picture or product be set up to look more appealing and appetizing?

How can you add some SOUND from a CD or recording of a chicken clucking and a rooster
crowing?

Is there a way to allow customers to FEEL the softness of the shell?

What are ways to creatively allow future customers to TASTE the flavor of your eggs in a dish
or take home one egg as a sample with a business card attached?

Adding the sense of SMELL may be a little harder to come by because you probably don't want
to carry around a scented bottle of the barnyard smell but if you do have the ability to create a
dish of aromatic cooking eggs to waft through a farmer's market...more power to you!

I'm going to close this chapter, 10 Things You Need to Know to Profit Selling Your Farm Fresh
Eggs, with a setup that could be put together at a local farmer's market using each of the
senses.

Also, consider owning a variety of chickens that lay a variety of colors. People love the blues,
browns, pinks, and greens and it truly makes a lovely display! People also may pay a premium
for quail, duck or even goose and turkey eggs!

Starting with the sense of sight, display your eggs in a way that is appealing. Instead of only
piling up stack after stack of filled cartons on the corner of a table, open up a carton to display
the eggs and think of what else you can add to make it more visually appealing, like laying a
display of dried herbs over them.

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Also, display a basket of eggs with a pretty bow and a lovely cloth cascading out of the basket.
Crack open a store bought egg and one of your eggs into a bowl and allow people to see the
difference in color.

Display the nutritional information of eggs from free-range, healthy hens for people to clearly
see and ask questions about.

Some states don't allow old cartons to be reused, so whether you use old or new ones, consider
sprucing them up a bit. Add a ribbon with a business card attached to it. Even consider attaching
an egg recipe to each carton.

Remember, people love a little "to do" with any purchase they make. Make them feel special and
provide a memory that they won't forget. And when they don't forget, they will keep coming back
to YOU for their eggs.

Bring along a CD player or hook your cell phone to some speakers playing some lovely hen and
chicken barnyard sounds to engage and draw customers to your table. Allow them to feel the
eggs displayed in the basket, and smell the herbs on the table.

Using a portable burner, cook up some freshly laid farm eggs, season them and give those
customers a sizzle to hear and a smell to behold! If possible, hand out a small plate for people to
sample.

Now all of these ideas can't be used in all situations but with creativity and slight changes they
can be used for any option you use to sell your eggs.

Remember, times have changed enough that we need to do MORE than our competitors to stand
out and be seen in order to sell our products.

But your chickens are laying...and eating! So collect those eggs and let your ladies help pay for
their upkeep!

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 How to Make a Profit Selling Day Old Chicks by
2 Hatching Chicken Eggs

I
f you have ever hatched chicken eggs, then you're hooked, right? You can't just do it once.

But what if you could hatch eggs AND sell the baby chicks to the people in your
hometown? Or even start a small hatchery?

What does it really take to hatch out eggs and sell the resulting cuteness?

Let's find out.

From Beginning to End:

Hatching Chicken Eggs and Selling Day Old Chicks
What are the most profitable chickens?

Which chickens bring in the most profit when they are sold as chicks? It's a very good question
to ask before beginning to hatch eggs. People buying chicks usually will want full blood breeds.
And it makes sense to try to hatch chicks that have the potential to bring in the most profit. But
this might differ from place to place.

Knowing your area will be key to knowing which eggs to hatch and which ones will sell well. It's
a balance between choosing a popular breed and a breed that will be different enough to stand
out and get attention. Here are a few ideas on how to gauge which breed to hatch in your local
area:

1. Ask local feed stores what kind of breeds they will be selling
2. Create a poll in a local Facebook group and ask which breed people would buy
3. Check Craigslist
4. Join local or online poultry groups
5. Attend poultry auctions or swaps

These are a few breeds to look into before deciding which to choose from. But remember to
focus on your area and the chickens people are looking for!

 Marans. These are a good choice because people love the beautiful dark brown eggs they
produce.
 Guineas. These can be a high demand breed because of their awesome ability as eat ticks
and keep the bugs to a minimum.
 Brahma. They have docile personalities, have great wintertime hardiness, and as egg
layers, Brahma hens lay a significant amount of brown eggs.
 Silkies. Docile, beautiful birds. Laying about 3 eggs a week but are notoriously broody.

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  Cochins. Docile, friendly and fluffy. They are an ornamental bird and not heavy laying
hens.
 Orpingtons. Dual purpose, eggs, and meat. They tend to go broody and are a calm breed.
 Ameraucana. Hardy and sweet and tend to be broody. Lays a blue egg.

Points to consider when choosing a breed:

1. Stay away from "fad" breeds. These are just that, a fad and will not usually be a desired
breed the next year.
2. Also stay away from breeds that can be sexed at hatching. These will be problematic for
you unless you do want to be raising and selling or butchering the roosters.

Take the time to research your specific area to learn what people are really looking for. It will be
worth your time to ask some questions before you jump in with both feet.

Where Do I Get My Hatching Eggs?

After you've made the decision on what type of breed to hatch, you need to find the eggs. There
are a few ways you can go about this. If you are just starting out and don't have a purebred flock,
there are many options available to purchase hatching eggs:

 Cackle Hatchery
 McMurray Hatchery
 Meyer Hatchery
 Three Little Blackbirds
 Sweet Pea Farm

*From many reviews on the hatchery sites of the Maran roosters, they seem to easily turn mean.
Keep that in mind as you choose a breed, reading the reviews is a great way to know the
experiences of others.

If you would like to raise your own flock to produce hatching eggs, start out with one breed at a
time. You can purchase hatching eggs and hatch them out or you could purchase chicks and raise
them until they start laying. If you have several roosters and several breeds, you will need to
have a setup where the different breeds are separated.

An important note to consider: good quality chicken stock will not come from hatcheries or
catalogs. If you truly want to raise a desired and sought out flock, be willing to pay for quality
stock to begin with. Find breeders sanctioned by the ABA and APA at poultry shows or online.

How Do I Store Eggs Before Hatching?

It is best to store eggs at a temperature of 50-60° because lower and higher temperatures may
reduce hatchability. Hatching eggs should not be kept in a refrigerator because the temperature is
too low.

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Eggs that have cracks, have thin shells, shells with ridges, or are excessively dirty or abnormal in
size or shape should not be kept for hatching. Excessively large or small eggs are often not fertile
and shouldn't be set in the incubator.

For best results, hatching eggs should not be stored for more than 10-14 days before they are set.
They should be stored in egg cartons with the small end of the egg down and held at a slant and
turned twice a day. One simple method of turning the eggs is to prop one end of the carton up on
an object at an angle of about 35° and then just shift which end is elevated twice a day.

When is the Best Time to Hatch Chickens to sell them?

Do chicks hatch all year round? They can, but this will in large part, be area specific. In the
north, most, if not all, chicks are sold in the spring. But in warmer climates, there may be a need
or demand for chicks year around. You know your area. Don't hatch chicks in cold winter
months. If you do, also make a plan to keep them until spring to try to sell them then if they don't
sell as chicks.

Can You Hatch an Egg from the Supermarket?

No. The eggs from the supermarket are not fertile.

Chicken Egg Hatching Process

If you haven't had the chance to hatch eggs, it's fun and amazing to see how in just 21 days a
chicken can hatch and almost immediately be running around!

This process of hatching eggs is done perfectly by a hen but can be simulated by you as well;
which truly is an amazing miracle of life!

It begins before the egg is laid through fertilization and then the division and growth of living
cells. After the egg is laid there is no growth, it is a stage of inactive embryonic life.

But the moment the egg is set in the incubator or under a hen...life begins.

FIRST DAY

16 Hours: First sign of resemblance to a chick embryo

18 Hours: Appearance of alimentary tract

20 Hours: Appearance of vertebral column

21 Hours: Beginning of formation of nervous system

22 Hours: Beginning of formation of head

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23 Hours: Appearance of blood islands--vitelline circulation

24 Hours: Beginning of formation of eye

SECOND DAY:

25 Hours: Beginning of formation of heart

35 Hours: Beginning of formation of ear

42 Hours: Heart begins to beat (TWO days and the heart is beating! WOW!)

THIRD DAY

50 Hours: Beginning of Formation of amnion

60 Hours: Beginning of formation of nose

62 Hours: Beginning of formation of legs

64 Hours: Beginning of formation of wings

70 Hours: Beginning of formation of allantios

FOURTH DAY Beginning of formation of tongue

FIFTH DAY Beginning of formation of reproductive organs and differentiation of sex

SIXTH DAY Beginning of formation of beak and egg-tooth

EIGHTH DAY Beginning of formation of feathers

TENTH DAY Beginning of hardening of beak

THIRTEENTH DAY Appearance of scales and claws

FOURTEENTH DAY Embryo turns its head toward the blunt end of egg

SIXTEENTH DAY Scales, claws, and beak becoming firm

SEVENTEENTH DAY Beak turns toward air cell

NINETEENTH DAY Yolk sac begins to enter body cavity

TWENTIETH DAY Yolk sac completely drawn into the body cavity; embryo occupies
practically all the space within the egg except the air cell!

TWENTY-FIRST DAY Hatching of chick!

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And during this whole process of development, you are instrumental in keeping the proper
humidity and temperature and the eggs turned throughout each day.

You, my friend, are the hen!

Homemade Incubator for Eggs

But a hen needs a nest, right?

This "nest" is the incubator. And it is essentially the most important thing to consider before
hatching any eggs.

I personally believe that the homemade egg incubator we use is awesome. It is over thirty years
old and going strong. I have excellent hatching rates and it is a hands-on experience, which I
like. In the article linked above, you will find access to the building plans for that particular
incubator and also other important considerations when choosing an incubator. This is one area
you don't want to gamble with. A good incubator will keep eggs alive with proper regulation of
temperature, humidity and egg turning.

Expert Tips for Incubating Chicken Eggs: Hatching Chicken Eggs

Naturally
Before putting eggs in the incubator:

1. Get your incubator ready 2-3 days before you plan to put in eggs.
2. Clean thoroughly and disinfect (Basic H)
3. Plug in and turn on thermostats to make sure they are working properly.
4. Double check that thermometers are working properly. Place two accurate thermometers
in the center of the incubator at about egg level. Make sure they are both reading the
same numbers and accurately.
5. Adjust the temperature continually until it is consistently reading between 100-102°.
(Consistently!)
6. Only after you feel the temperature is accurate and consistently staying at the proper
temperature, can you put the eggs in the incubator.
7. Place an "X" on one side of the egg using a pencil. If you are manually turning the eggs,
this will help as you turn the eggs. All "X's" up one turn and all "X's" down the next turn.
8. If you are incubating a large number of eggs, place the eggs in for three consecutive days,
putting one dozen in per day. This will keep the incubator less congested during the hatch
days. As you mark with an “X”, also put “1”, “2” or “3” to remind you which day the egg
was placed in the incubator.

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After the eggs are placed in the incubator:
Chicken Incubator Temperature and Humidity

What is the best humidity for hatching chicken eggs? Throughout the first 20 days, humidity
should be kept between 50-55%. This aids in breaking down the calcium of the eggshell, which
will make it easier for the chicks as they hatch.

What is the ideal temperature for hatching chicken eggs? The temperature should be kept
between 100-102° throughout the entirety of the incubation period. Keep in mind that as the
chicks grow, and the larger they become inside the egg, the more heat they will produce. After
day 17, it is important to keep an eye out for surges in temperature and quickly respond. Quickly
turn the temperature down and spray the eggs with water to cool them. Temperature spikes can
be detrimental to the chicks.

Turning Eggs During Incubation

If the incubator does not have an automatic egg turner, and the turning is done by hand, then they
ideally should be turned at least 4 times a day: breakfast, lunch, dinner and before bed. It is an
easy process to turn them: the X is up one turn and the next turn the X is down. This is done to
prevent the developing chick from sticking to the side of the egg.

Candling Chicken Eggs

You can candle the eggs at one week but not before. And then again at day 16. Any eggs that are
clear are usually disregarded. On day 7, if you see a spider looking center with veins coming out,
it usually means that the chick is developing. If you are not sure that the egg is fertile and
growing, keep the egg in the incubator until the 16th-day check.

On the 16th day, the eggs that are doing well are dark and there is somewhat of an air pocket on
the big end of the egg.

Candling should be done very carefully, not allowing the egg to get too cold or hot. It should also
be done as quickly as possible without cracking or damaging the shell in any way.

Egg Incubator Lock Down

On day 18, turn the eggs so the X is up and the big end of the egg is facing the front of the
incubator. Lockdown begins and the incubator should not be opened until the chick is ready to
leave the incubator. It should not be opened up to turn the eggs anymore. Only open it to spray or
add water to the pans if the humidity gets too low. Too low of humidity during the hatching
period will make it hard for the chicks to emerge from their shells. The humidity during these
last days should be around 65%.

This tip will depend on the incubator used, but in the incubator I use, I add a wet towel under the
eggs before lockdown begins. This can be done by carefully putting the eggs in an egg carton
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and laying the towel down quickly and adding the eggs back into the incubator on top of the
towel with their X's up and their big end facing the window.

If there are vents in the incubator they can be opened up and remember to carefully watch the
temperature during this time. There can easily be a spike because of the heat the chicks are
giving off. If this happens, spray them with water to cool them down quickly.

The chicks will start to hatch anywhere from the 20th to the 22nd day of incubation. This range,
in part, is due to the temperatures that the incubator was kept at. If there were periods of lower
temperatures, then the chicks may develop a bit slower and will hatch a bit later and vice versa.

After the Chicks Hatch

Depending on the size and model of the incubator, the chick can and should remain in the
incubator for about 15-24 hours after hatching.

After 24 hours, the chick should be removed from the incubator and placed in a box with a clip-
on light that is a 75-90 watt bulb. It will then need water and feed. The first day they can be
given water. An eye dropper can be a useful tool at this point. And then the next few days, the
feed can be mixed with the water and then the food and water can be left out for them to use as
they need it.

And now you have a fluffy day old chick that can be sold!

How can I sell my chicks?

There must be a well thought out plan made before the chicks have hatched. In fact, it would be
in your best interest to find buyers before the hatching process even begins. You need to know
that there are homes for your chicks before hatching them or you may need to enlarge your own
chicken coop. Many smaller chicken breeders take orders for chicks before they set them in the
incubator. This is a great way to know how many to hatch and they are already sold before the
process begins.

The easiest way to sell the chicks will be in your hometown because the shipping process takes
on a whole new set of difficulties. Here are a few ideas to get you started on selling your day old
chicks.

Social Media

FACEBOOK

Create a "like page" on Facebook and let people in your area know to "like" the page for updates
on what is available. Keep in mind that Facebook no longer allows the sale of animals. Also join
poultry groups for your state and area. Many times people will post looking for chicks and you
can also post the details and when chicks will be available.

22
CRAIGSLIST

Post pictures of your chicks on Craigslist in the areas that are within a couple hours’ drive of
your location.

INSTAGRAM

Who can resist the picture of a cute, fluffy chick? This is a great way to share pictures of the
available chicks and to let people know that you are selling chicks.

LOCAL FLEA MARKET

The flea market is another great way and no-cost way to get the word out to locals about your
available chicks.

TWITTER

This platform moves very fast and it usually works best to upload a photo as well. Create a
hashtag for your location and business and use hashtags that are descriptive.

Personal Legwork to Spread the Word

SIGNS

 Local feed stores

 Pet stores
 Veterinarian offices
 Coffee shops
 Gas station bulletin boards

BUSINESS CARDS

Hand out business cards and ask local vet offices or feed stores if a handful of cards can be left
on their counters to be handed out.

LOCAL FEED STORES

Work with local feed stores to provide them with a set amount of chicks each spring to sell.
Negotiate pricing for both parties to benefit.

POULTRY SWAPS AND AUCTIONS

If you have enough available chicks and the timing is right, these might be a good option to
participate in if they are in your area.

23
Selling to Local Growers

Keep an ear open to who might be interested in taking chicks to raise them for meat. It may be an
advantageous situation for everyone if the grower began to buy locally.

Selling Chickens at Farmer's Market

Research the local farmer's market rules first, but this would be a great way to get the word out
and possibly sell out of your chicks quickly. Bring along small boxes for people to easily take
home the chicks. This may not work in some locations depending on what's available for power
to keep heat lamps on.

How much do you sell baby chicks for?

Pricing of chicks depends on the breed and quality of the birds. But usually, they range between
$3-$5. Some of the exotic breeds will bring in up to $18 a chick and remember those "fad"
breeds? Sometimes they can go for as much as $100 for one bird! If you are starting out with a
mixed breed, it will be on the lower end of $3 a chick.

Conclusion of Hatching Eggs for Profit

Breeding chickens for profit and hatching eggs to sell day-old chicks may not be all it’s cracked
up to be for everyone or every situation, but it may be something you will love and it may be a
great fit for your situation!

The most important aspect of expanding any business or looking into new markets of profit is to
do the important and necessary research before jumping in. There have been many ideas that I
thought were brilliant and I thought they would help us expand and save money, but when I did
the legwork and research, I found out that in reality, it was a horrible idea and would have cost
much more than it would have saved us in both time and money.

The good news is that starting a hatching business doesn't require a large investment and it could
be started small to get a feel for the market in the area. And if it doesn't work out, it can easily be
stopped without any repercussions.

24
 How to Sell Laying Hens and Make a Profit
3 (Complete Care Guide)

L aying Hens
The reason most of us have chickens: eggs. And those lovely colored eggs come
from those lovely hens cackling in the coop.

And although chickens are fairly easy to care for, there's a bit of important information to keep in
mind to keep those hens healthy and producing eggs, and it's not enough to just have eggs, it's
best to have the best tasting, healthiest eggs!

There are several ways to get those hens to egg-laying capacity.

A wonderful and exciting way to raise chickens is to hatch them. Oh! What a fun hands-on
experience! But there is a 50% chance of hatching roosters in this situation and that does
complicate raising chickens.

Another option is to buy chicks from a hatchery. Amazingly they ship quickly and very well and
you can have chicks arrive at the post office to raise from fluff through the gangly, awkward
teenage stage to the pullet stage where they begin to lay eggs.

Pullets between the ages of 15-22 weeks can also be purchased through a hatchery. They will
begin laying eggs shortly after arrival, once they have settled into their new home. Hens begin
laying, depending on their breed, between their 15th and 24th week of life.

And there just may be an opportunity in your area to raise chicks, either by hatching them
yourself or buying chicks from a hatchery, to the pullet stage and sell them as "ready to lay"
hens. It takes a lot of care, attention, and feed to get chicks to the egg laying stage and there are
people who just don't want to mess with that.

Egg Laying Chicken Breeds

Because egg laying is the focus for so many who own chickens, what are the best breeds to
choose from that lay the most eggs?

White Leg horns: These hens start laying around 16-17 weeks and lay 280 eggs annually. They
are a nervous and flightly breed but they are a hardy breed.

Rhode Island Red: These chickens have a hardy temperament and lay around 260 eggs a year.
They begin laying around 18-24 weeks.

25
Barred Plymoth Rock are a calm breed that lay 260 eggs a year and start laying around 18-22
weeks.

Golden Laced Wyandottes: These hens are a very docile bird and lay around 200 eggs a year
starting around 18-20 weeks

New Hampshire Red: They are more competetive and aggressive and when they begin laying
around 18-21 weeks they will lay around 200 eggs a year.

Buff Orpingtons are very easy to handle and are very friendly. They begin laying eggs around
19-24 weeks and will lay between 150-200 eggs a year.

Australorp: These birds are a very hardy breed. They begin laying around 22-24 weeks and will
lay around 250 eggs a year.

Speckled Sussex is a very docile and curous breed that will lay between 250-300 eggs a year
starting around 16-20 weeks.

Best Laying Hens for Beginners

If you are a beginner to raising chickens, it is always more fun to have a flock that is social and
won't run away when you approach. It's fun to be feeding and to look down and see a hen
looking up at you waiting to be picked up.

So, when choosing a breed or a mix of breeds, begin with ones that are known to be of good
temperament. The Golden Comet not only lays a lot of eggs and starts laying earlier than most
breeds, she is also a hardy, happy hen. This combination of attributes would put her at the top of
any list!

The Golden Laced Wyandotte don't lay as many eggs but their happy, friendly temperament
make up for fewer eggs.

And adding a splash of color makes collecting eggs fun, Amerauracana's are a great choice but
do tend to go broody.

Everyone wants a good experience when first starting out with chickens and these breeds will
give just that.

Which is the Best Chicken for Laying Eggs?

If laying eggs is the sole and only purpose for a chicken, and temperament and social aspects are
of secondary importance, then the White Leghorn and Rhode Island Red breeds would be ones to
consider. They lay a good amount of eggs a year but are more flighty and tend to be less friendly.

The Barred Plymouth Rock and Speckled Sussex also lay quite a few eggs and they have calm
and mild temperaments. A new chicken owner has the great option of having a mixed flock. This
26
will provide a great perspective and hands-on experience for which breed is most desired
because of friendliness and how many eggs they will lay a year.

What Kind of Chickens Lay Colored Eggs?

1. Araucanas

Araucanas are different from Ameraucanas in that they are rumpless and without a tail head.
They have tufts of feathers that hang on each side of their head as well. And they lay blue eggs.
They originated in Chile and have a mild temperament.

2. Ameraucanas

An Ameraucana will lay a blue egg as well but will have a tail. They are a broody bird with a
mild temperament.

3. Easter Eggers

An Easter Egger is a mutt of the chicken world, but that doesn't mean they aren’t fabulous. If you
see a chicken being sold under the name: Araucana or Americana, then they really are an Easter
Egger. They will have egg colors that range from blue, green, rose, brown, sage and olive or
cream. They are cold and heat hardy, friendly, smart and lay well in the winter months. They
descend from a blue laying hen and are crossed with any other breed to make these beautiful
colored eggs.

4. Olive Eggers

These chickens lay a beautiful colored olive egg. They are created by crossing a bird that
produces a dark brown egg like Marans, Barnevelder, Welsummers, Empordanesa, and
Penedesenca with a bird that lays a blue egg like the Araucana, Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers.
Very dark olive colored eggs will come from a parent that lays the darkest of brown, like the
Marans. But the lighter brown egg crossed with the blue egg producer will still produce a
beautiful light olive shade, many times with freckles. With the cross, eggs can be a blue/green,
minty green or light teal green.

5. Cream Legbar

The Cream Legbar will lay a blue egg. They are active birds which make them fabulous
foragers. They are a cross between Barred Plymouth Rocks, Golden Leghorns, and Araucanas
and were developed in Great Britain.

27
6. Marans

Marans lay a deep-brown colored egg. Eggs are graded on a scale of 0-9. 0 Represents white and
9 is a deep dark brown. Marans will lay eggs from 5-9 on the color chart. They are an easygoing,
calm bird.

7. Welsummer

Welsummer hens lay a large chocolate-brown egg with darker speckles. They do well in both
heat and cold, are great foragers and are friendly, sweet-tempered birds.

8. Penedesenca

Penedesenca hens lay a very dark, reddish brown egg. They are alert but wary and may not be
the first to approach in the pen but can become more docile with slow movement, treats and time
spent with them.

How to Take Care of Laying Hens

With a rhythm of care, chickens are rather easy to care for but all of their needs will be met by
their owner, you. There are a few things that are very important that they receive daily. This will
affect their health and their egg production.

Chicken Coop Housing

This is a fundamental, necessary element of raising chickens. A chicken coop will protect
chickens from the elements, keep them safe from predators, and aide in keeping them free from
sickness. A wet, cold, and sick chicken will spend all its energy trying to stay warm and on
returning its body to health and in the process will lay fewer eggs or stop laying eggs altogether.
And a hunted and eaten chicken...well, its egg production has come to an absolute halt. Housing
should be built to accommodate both summer and winter months. Chickens need adequate
ventilation and air flow to keep their house from becoming stale and trapped humidity in really
cold temperatures will lead to a higher likelihood of frostbite.

Chicken Waterers

Water is a very important for laying hens. It takes a lot of water for a hen to create her egg.
Water makes up more than half of an egg's volume. Chickens prefer fresh, clean water. If they
are housed with ducks, the water will need to be changed frequently. And if shavings, poop or
any debris get in the water, it's best to change it out and give them fresh water.

Water becomes more difficult in the winter months where temperatures are cold but this can be
remedied with heated waterers. In Montana, where stock tanks can freeze even with tank heaters,
I've found this one to work the best for us. The water sits on a heated base. It has lasted
through several winters so far.
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Feed for Chickens

Of course, feed will be a hugely necessary part of your daily routine. And in large part, how you
feed them will be entirely up to you. They can be fed with hanging feeders, a tub of feed, and
even a large tote or garbage can with holes in the side works for many people. Note that feed can
be wasted if chickens are allowed to scratch. If it's scattered and soiled, they may not eat it.

Provide a Next Box and Collect Eggs

Ideally, a next box should be about 2 feet off the ground with roosts placed above the boxes. This
will discourage hens from sleeping in the next boxes and making a mess in them. Placing a cloth
over the door of the next box will give the hens a dark and secluded place to lay an egg. There
should be one next box for every four hens.

Eggs should be collected daily, if not several times a day. Not only will this keep eggs from
being soiled, they will be broken less often, which will keep the hens from eating them. That is a
bad habit to start and one hard to break! Collecting them daily will also maximize their
freshness.

Chickens can be locked inside their chicken coop until after 10 am to ensure that eggs are laid in
the nest boxes. Usually, most chickens are done laying by mid-morning. This will keep you from
hunting eggs all over your property!

Set Up Lights

Chickens require 14 hours of light to stay in egg production. With less light, they will stop laying
like they do when they are molting. Up north, it is necessary to provide light during the winter
month. During the peak days of winter, there is sometimes half the number of daylight hours
needed. Timers can be used to turn on lights before the sunrise and to stay on a bit after sunset
(so the hens are sure to have made it back to their roosts.) This artificial light will help keep the
hens producing eggs. Just remember to be polite and have the lights turned off at night, so they
can sleep in darkness.

Watch and Observe

Daily observing and spending time with your chickens will give you a great pleasure in not only
befriending them but also in becoming aware of their character and disposition, which will aid
you in knowing when one is sick. Be aware of their normal antics, alertness, activities, and also
their feather health, and alertness of eyes.

Clean and Refresh Nest Boxes

The nest boxes should be refreshed or changed once a month. This will ensure that eggs are as
clean as possible by removing any dirt, poop, and broken eggs.

Clean the Chicken Coop and Refresh the Bedding

29
Depending on where you live, the chicken coop will need to be changed at least once a month in
urban or city locations. If the deep litter method is being used, bedding is added monthly and the
coop is cleaned twice a year. Chicken manure is rich in nitrogen and after composting can be a
great asset to a garden. When the chicken coop is cleaned, it is a good practice to clean it out
entirely and clean and sanitize the walls. Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled throughout the
coop; this will help keep hens healthy and the mites at bay.

What is the Best Feed for Chickens to Lay Eggs?

As with any animal, food intake will directly affect the health of a chicken and the quality of the
eggs they lay, and sometimes it will affect if they lay eggs at all.

Chickens of laying age need 16-18% protein and 3 1/2% calcium to promote strong eggshells.
It’s essential a laying hen receive a balanced diet with adequate levels of protein, carbohydrates,
fat, vitamins and minerals. And layer pellets are correctly formulated to give a hen just that.

Interestingly and possibly not well known, adding in scratch and scraps is like giving chickens
chips before a full course meal. They will fill up on "snacks" and not eat a well-balanced meal.
Instead of saving money, feeding a lot of "extras" throws off the balance of a chicken’s diet and
will affect the quality of their health and egg production.

That's not to say that scratch can't be used like that: scratch. Chickens love to scratch for their
food and it can be thrown out for them to scratch around and peck at. In fact, Lesa, at Better
Hens and Gardens, throws out scratch to her chickens in the field and then collects the eggs. It
gets the hens out of the house and allows her to collect eggs easier without those few pecking
hens that would rather she leave the eggs alone.

In many situations, it is necessary to supplement with free choice oyster shells. This added
calcium will ensure that egg shells are not thin and weak. A higher protein feed also may be
needed during peak egg production and during the hot summer months when chickens tend to eat
less.

In confinement and during winter months when everything tends to be iced over, it is also
important to provide grit for chickens. This grit helps to grind the grain in their gizzards.
Chickens allowed to free range will also get a wonderful diverse diet of berries, bugs, grains, and
grasses in addition to their formulated feed.

How Much Do You Feed Laying Hens?

Ten laying hens, 20 weeks and older, will be fed between 18-24 pounds of layer pellets per
week. It is important when feeding chickens to have enough feed space set up so that all of the
chickens can eat at one time. And to reduce waste and spillage, set the feeders to the height of
the chickens' backs.

Feed should not be stored for more than two months, not only is it susceptible to mold but it will
also begin to lose it nutritional value.

30
Raising Pullets
If you are currently or plan to raise pullets in the future for your own use or to sell, it is so
important to note that how a chick is raised to sexual maturity will vastly affect how the
hen produces the remaining years of her life. And if you are trying to gain a name of
recognition in the poultry world for healthy, productive hens, then this is a very important point.

"Pullets are grown to reach a certain body weight at a specific age. Many of the problems that
occur in a laying flock can be traced back to insufficient body weight during the growing period.

Commercially raised pullets receive three diets during the growing phase: starter, grower,
and developer. Most feed stores sell only one or two types of feeds for raising replacement
pullets." ~Source

How Much Money Can An Egg-Laying Chicken Be Sold For?

A chick that has been raised to the pullet stage and is ready to start laying eggs can be sold for
$15 or more depending on the area and breed. Those who raise chicks for this purpose, feel that
$15 a hen is more than fair for the time, money and care it takes to raise chickens to this age. But
specialty breeds and chickens that conform highly to their breed's traits can be sold for much
more.

If your chickens gain a reputation for a high standard of breed traits, health, and quality, many
people will travel hours to buy your birds. And starting with a solid foundation of quality stock
to begin with, will determine the quality of birds eventually produced to sell.

Tips for Selling Laying Hens

When you've put together a program of raising healthy, quality hens consistently, you can begin
to sell your pullets. And getting your name out there is the next most important step.

I think taking the time to answer these questions is a very good place to start: Who, What, When,
Where, and How is very helpful in selling any animal or product.

WHO

Well, duh. Crazy chicken ladies. But in all seriousness, there are many people who are avid
chicken lovers who are looking for and will pay for quality chickens. It's a matter of finding
them.

WHAT

Your “what” is the fabulous chickens that you’ve developed, are developing or will develop. It is
so important to choose breeds that are hardy in your area and are in demand. But it will be
quality birds that people are looking for. There are so many chickens out there and so many
hatcheries. Your goal will be to produce chickens that are true to their breed, healthy and raised
31
on necessary nutrients for optimal laying potential after they are sold. This will give your
customers a fantastic experience and a willingness to spread the word about your flock.

WHEN

Spring will most likely be the busiest time of year and being prepared with laying hens before
people buy chicks in the spring may be an opportunity to get people what they ultimately want
earlier: laying hens. And with quality, comes demand. As you build a business, you may find
more opportunities year around.

WHERE

This world of technology and social media will come in handy when looking for customers.

Facebook has a vast array of poultry groups. Not only will this give you an idea of who also
sells chickens in your area, but what they charge for their birds. It will also open up doors to
other groups and opportunities. Some of these groups allow information to be shared about the
availability of birds and it is a wonderful way to connect with other breeders. It can be a win-win
when relationships are forged and one breeder can send a potential customer to the next breeder
if they don't have what someone is looking for.

Craigslist is another great place to list hens for sale.

Poultry auctions are also an option but like all auctions, you never know who will be there and
what other chickens will be sold as well that day and you just never know what price you will
you get.

Poultry swaps are like a flea market. They provide an opportunity to show off your birds and
sell them!

Let your local feed stores know that if people are looking for local options for chickens that you
have some available.

Word of mouth is also a great way to get the word out. Remember! Quality sells and people
remember quality and good experiences.

If you have a website, this is a great place to "show off" your birds, their breeding and what you
have available.

And going old school and putting up flyers around town also is a good way to catch people's
attention.

HOW

Be knowledgeable about your breed of chickens. Customers will usually have a lot of questions.
As you are building up your business, be prepared to spend the time finding clients, building

32
rapport with other breeders, taking the time to get the word out in any way and whatever way
possible.

But make it worthwhile. Your time is valuable. You will have spent your time and money to
have developed a quality set of birds to sell, so price them accordingly. Don't underprice your
quality birds.

Another day, another dollar, one more chicken...or two. And a great way to have your flock pay
for their meals and maybe even a few of your own!

33
4 Complete Guide: How to Sell Hatching Eggs and
Make a Profit

S
elling Hatching Eggs
For the love of chickens and having a *few* too many for the sake of having farm
fresh eggs served daily for breakfast...the expenses can add up quickly. But what if
you were to choose a breed or *two (*or more) and raise quality, pure-bred
chickens and sell the fertilized chicken eggs?

Many people are eager to incubate their eggs and it can save you the hassle (wonderful hassle,
that is) of incubating eggs and also, depending on the breed, can save your customers the outright
cost of buying laying hens. But there are definitely some things that need to be in place to get
your business off to a great start.

State Laws for Selling Fertile Eggs

As always, it's worth the time spent researching your state's laws regarding selling and shipping
hatching eggs. For updated information on your state's requirements and regulations contact your
local extension office. They will help you know exactly what to do and what is required to be in
legal limits with this business.

What is NPIP Certification?

"The National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) is a national program in collaboration with state
and federal departments of agriculture and industry representatives. The main objective of this
program is to use new diagnostic technology to effectively improve poultry and poultry products
throughout the United States. NPIP provides certification that poultry and poultry products
destined for interstate and international shipments are disease free." ~Source

Do You Have to be NPIP to Ship Eggs

Most states require NPIP certification, Pullorum and Typhoid testing, and a permit with health
certification.

You will find most of the information that you need at this website here: National Poultry
Improvement Plan.

Housing for Breeding

If you are planning to raise multiple breeds, it's important to plan accordingly even if you only
start out with one breed. When I first read this fact, it amazed me. Did you know that if a rooster
34
breeds a hen, they are fertile with that rooster for up to 2-3 weeks after? If you are planning to
have eggs shipped out on a certain date, and there is the "oopsie-the rooster got out!", it will
delay your ability to mail purebred eggs. It would be best to wait the 3 weeks and start collecting
eggs again. The eggs in between that time can be sold for eating eggs or hatched as mutt
chickens and sold for less.

To keep breeds from mixing, it is best to have them separated into separate coops and runs. If
you don't have the ability to have outside runs coming out of each coop, one way to allow
chickens the ability to free range is to rotate which group of chickens is allowed to free range
each day. Also, a single building or coop can be split up inside to house several different
breeding groups and also have access to an outside run.

Two different varieties of poultry can be kept in one coop if necessary as well. This would be
like keeping chickens and quail or guineas in one coop or chickens and ducks in a coop together.

Breeding Tips and Breeding Methods

First of all, what is mating? It is the act of joining a cock (rooster) with a hen so that the eggs laid
by the hen are fertile. Fertility is necessary for hatching eggs.

Young cockerel, males, can be kept with more hens than an older cock. "More females can be
allowed in the mating pen during spring than during winter (where the winters are very cold). In
exceptionally warm summers, mating should be suspended as fertility will be very poor and the
birds get exhausted." ~Source

In this process of becoming a poultry breeder, you need to determine from the beginning that you
will be a breeder and not just a multiplier. It is absolutely necessary to know the breeds you own
inside and out and be ready to cull any hen or rooster that does not match up to the American
Standard of Perfection. These chickens can be sold at a discount as you work on perfecting your
flock.

As a beginner, it would be prudent to find someone in your area willing to help you in your first
years of selection and culling. Sometimes a hen carries all the attributes of her breed but her
offspring will not have the desired traits. This hen would need to be found and culled. And to
find the correct hen, it may take multiple hatches to narrow down which one it is. But these
hatches can be sold for less and the customer informed of what the abnormality is.

Chicken Breeding Techniques

There are 5 different types of breeding techniques to choose from. (~Source)

1. PEN MATING. In this type of mating, ten hens are kept in a breeding pen and one cock
is permitted to mate and live with them freely. This is probably the easiest way to breed
chickens for the small chicken breeder while also being able to easily keep track of
parentage for record keeping. Eggs collected a week after letting in the cock will
normally be fertile. Utilizing this breeding method will not allow you to know exactly
which hen produced which chick.
35
 2. FLOCK MATING. Here a large flock of hens is kept with a number of cocks in the
proportion of one cock for every ten hens. But under confined conditions, the males
develop a tendency to fight each other and generally, one male becomes the aggressor
preventing the others from mating. This may affect the fertility seriously. The eggs also
cannot be traced to the cock concerned and so pedigree breeding is not possible. On the
other hand, on a free-range, there will not be much scope for fighting and the birds are
free to run about. Flock mating is preferred where ordinary farm conditions are prevalent
and no pedigree breeding is undertaken. It also permits housing for a large number of
fowls as one unit and thereby reduces the overhead costs.
3. STUD MATING. Stud mating consists of keeping the cocks and hen in separate pens or
confining the males in separate coops in the pen of the females. The hens are let into the
male's pen one by one at intervals, and after mating, they are removed to their own pen.
4. ALTERNATE MALES. In this method, it is also impossible to determine paternity of
the offspring. Two males are used for mating, but only one is allowed to serve the hens at
a time for one full day, while the other is confined to the coop. The following day the
male that had been employed is removed to the coop, and the second one is let in with the
flock.
5. ARTIFICIAL INSEMINATION. Artificial insemination may not be a feasible proposal
for a smaller poultry breeder because of lack of necessary expertise, understanding, and
funds.

Record Keeping
It will, in the end, be up to you how many records you keep and how detailed. But keeping
detailed records will help you as you define and refine your flock. Don't ever assume that you
can remember every detail. You can't. There are too many other things to keep track of. Writing
as much detail down about each mating group and the results will be how you will know what
direction you are going and which direction you should be going.

You can find detailed record keeping worksheets on our free resource page.

Collecting Eggs
Eggs collected to sell for hatching purposes should be collected several times a day. In the
winter, depending on temperatures, they probably will need to be collected even more frequently.
Eggs that have gotten too cold, froze, or cracked will not hatch or incubate well and should not
be shipped. Summer months, with high heat, will also be a detriment to hatching eggs. In fact,
the embryo may begin to develop all on their own and when they are collected, the development
stops and won't begin again when set in an incubator.

Collecting eggs more frequently will also help prevent other problems like breakage, eggs being
eaten, getting poopy, allowing bacteria into the egg, broodiness, predator snatching, and
temperature fluctuations.

If you want this to be an income source, collecting eggs frequently will just be a part of the
"job".

36
Maintaining a Flock
You will also need to find a good system of replacing older hens and those that aren't up to your
standards. It makes sense to sell those hens as laying hens if possible and if you've established
and maintained a strong set of breeds, people will be more than happy to purchase your hens.

Here are several reasons you will need replacement hens:

 As you cull hens that you've determined are not improving your genetics, you will need a
replacement of higher quality.
 Hens over 2 years old will probably need to be replaced with younger pullets.
 New bloodlines are needed.

Any time you add to your flock, choose hens that will be a marked improvement to your
program.

People buying your eggs have made several assumptions: that you are feeding the parent birds
appropriately with a breeder ration, that they are in excellent health without any deformities or
sickness and that the eggs were handled properly and with utmost care.

Choosing Hatching Eggs

Collecting the eggs frequently is important but the final cut in which eggs should be shipped still
needs to be made.

Candle the eggs and eliminate any of these eggs with these flaws:

 Too porous
 Hairline cracks
 Too large, small, or odd shaped
 Dirty

Also select eggs from multiple hens and roosters if possible, to provide as much genetic diversity
as possible.

Handling Hatching Eggs

Hatching eggs must be handled very carefully or they won't hatch. Here are the do's and don’ts:

 Do put them in an egg carton with the pointy end down.

 Do store between 55-65° with 75% humidity.
 Do not wash eggs. This removes the very protective "bloom" that keeps bacteria from
entering through the shell.
 Do not use too large, too small or odd shaped eggs. Most likely none of these types of
eggs are fertile or will hatch.

37
  Do rotate the eggs by placing one end of the egg carton higher than the other at
approximately a 30% angle. Then "rotate" which end of the carton is higher several times
a day until they are set in the incubator. This prevents the yolks from sticking to the side
of the shell. A book or piece of plywood works great for this.
 Do not use eggs older than 10 days old. They lose viability after that.

Sale and Pricing of Hatching Eggs

As you are collecting your eggs and getting the word out about their availability, be very careful
with your record keeping of when eggs were picked. With a pencil, write what day they were
laid, and any other details that are important to remember on the side of the egg. If you do write a
"code" on the eggs that help you with your records, include the key to the code with the shipment
of eggs.

Don't sell any eggs that are older than three days old. By the time they reach their destination,
they will be between 5-7 days old already. You want success for your business and success in the
incubator will bring you great reviews and more business!

Eggs are usually sold in bunches like this: 6+, 12+, 8, 10, 16, 24, or 36. Did you notice the +?
That would mean that there will be a few extras included to make up for any breakage in
shipment. One added egg for every 6-8 is reasonable. And people LOVE getting extras!

When you do create your ad or are working on flyers or social media posts, be sure to be very
specific in how many you will be sending. If you won't be sending any extra use the word
"exact". Here would be an example: "You will be getting exactly 6 eggs in your order."

As far as pricing, due diligence in finding out pricing for your area and for your specific breed
will help you in determining your price. If you take part in an auction where there is a "buy it
now" or fixed price, price competitively. Remember, if everyone undercuts the lowest price,
that's what customers will expect to pay in the future and profits will continue to get less and
less.

It is quite common to see eggs that are priced between $2.50-$6.00 per egg. If you have what
might be considered "average" eggs from an average flock of chickens, the prices can range from
$6.00-$18.00 a dozen. But if you have spent the time to develop your flock to meet up to the
standards of the breed and are confident that your eggs could produce show quality chickens, the
price can range from $25.00-$200.00 a dozen.

How to Write an Ad for Optimal Egg Sales

Having a quality product isn't enough to attract sales. And just "getting the word out there"
doesn't guarantee a sale. It also comes down to selling your product like a professional. What
will that look like?

When buyers are looking for additions to their flock, they want to know all the details. It gives
people a sense of connection to you as a seller and to the birds that they will be caring for.

38
Here is a list of pertinent information that should be included in the ad. What are you selling:

 Breeds included
 Information about the particular breed. People love to read all they can about a breed they
are looking in to. They want to know why they have made the best decision in the
breed(s) they chose.
 How many breeding groups are included
 How many cockerels and hens were included
 How old your flock is
 And details about how you selected your flock to begin with
 Include information about how you manage your flock: breeder rations, free-range,
organic food etc.
 Include any test hatch rate results and overall fertility if you have them
 Include any awards you have won
 Post terms and condition very clearly
 List where you are not willing to ship
 Write out clearly your policy on replacement eggs
 Include any organizations or breed clubs you may be involved with
 Provide pictures of your flock. Keep them professional, clear and focused on your
animals. Provide a clutter free background. In short? Show off your chickens with
amazing pictures! Why? Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Here is a standard statement that could be used:

"Hatching eggs are not guaranteed in any way due to circumstances beyond the seller’s control
such as shipping, handling, and incubation conditions. Fertile eggs can fail to develop and
appear clear because of damage during shipping. While every effort will be made to provide you
with fertile, well-packaged eggs, the seller will not be held liable for the eggs’ failure to develop
or hatch. If the eggs you have selected are not available to ship on the date you have selected,
you may request a refund or select another shipping date." ~Source

Where to Sell Fertilized Hatching Eggs

Selling fertilized eggs possibly may have never been easier. There are so many proven options
available these days.

Here are great options for selling hatching eggs:

 Buy/Sell/Trade
 Rare Breed Auctions
 Feather Auction.com
 eBay
 Best Farm Buys
 Craigslist
 Ad in local newspaper

39
  Flyers around town at feed stores, Pet stores, Veterinarian offices, Coffee shops, Gas
station bulletin boards
 Social media
 Website
 Poultry swaps

In selling online, you will usually have two options: auctions or set price. In a set price situation,
you can set a price and are guaranteed that amount. In an auction, you can have a minimum
price, and may even get much more than the minimum!

Breed a great quality bird, take care of those eggs and make it worth your time to sell those eggs!

Taking the Order

Yay! Orders are coming in! How do you handle them properly?

You will want to collect this information from your buyers:

 Shipping address
 Email address
 Phone number
 Ask the buyer if they prefer to pick up the package from the post office (held for pickup)
or if they don't mind the eggs being driven around in the (sometimes bumpy!) ride in the
mail truck.
 Do they desire any other notes to be included on the outside of the package?

Prompt and efficient communication between you and your buyer will help make a difference
between a good experience and a bad one.

Shipping Hatching Eggs

There are several ways to ships eggs. And this probably is the most important part of the whole
process. If you can't get eggs safely to their destination, you don't have a business. So as you
package your eggs, make it double your best effort.

Eggs will ship well when they are packaged correctly with lots of padding (bubble wrap for the
win!).

Option one:

Individually wrap each egg in small strips of bubble wrap and tape well. Place them in an egg
carton that has been cut in half (the lid wouldn't close otherwise). Then place the lid on top of the
eggs and wrap with bubble wrap. Tape well. Place in a flat rate box and add filler all around the
egg carton.

40
Option two:

Use the Meeks Method. Each egg will be wrapped in a long strip of bubble wrap and taped well.
These long tubes are placed side by side on end in a box with bubble wrap and packaging all
around them. You can find awesome pictures and a tutorial here: Meeks Method

Whichever method you choose, you will want to mark the package as "fragile" and "this side
up". If the buyer chose to pick up the package, include "Hold for pickup. Call: xxx-xxx-xxx".
Also, attach the NPIP paperwork to the outside of the box if you have it. Ship it priority mail and
also require a signature.

After the Sale is Complete

Immediately after the eggs have been shipped, email the buyer with the tracking information.

If there does happen to be problems with an order or after hatching, remind them of your terms
and conditions. Some sellers negotiate and offer to send more eggs for half the price and paid for
shipping. Usually, this maintains good customer satisfaction.

If at all possible ask your customers to send you pictures of their chicks after hatching and for a
testimonial. Good recommendations are always useful for future business sales.

Keep their email address for future use. Send information about available eggs, new breeds, or
any discounts that are available. This is a great way to stay in communication and have repeat
business.

You did it. All of your hard work has paid off. You have hatching eggs available for people to
continue your line of chickens. If that's not exciting, I don't know what is!

Keep breeding and maintaining a healthy flock. Get rid of birds that are not an asset. Keep an eye
out for hens that are better and will raise your flock to the next level and then be ready to sell
eggs for hatching!

41
 How to Start Poultry Farming with Broilers
5

H
ow to Start Poultry Farming
In this chapter, we will be exploring how the average individual can start a
poultry farming business without the intention of raising chickens for large-
scale commercial purposes. But there are still rules and regulations that apply
to commercial operations that will also apply to those with a small quantity of
poultry. It is so important for everyone involved, both human and animal, that
all manner of high standards are maintained to promote health and vitality in the animals and to
prevent disease. This certainly can be a wonderful business and farm raised chickens are sought
after, but it will need to have a secure and well thought out plan before moving forward.

Why might this be a good business? It is an ideal income-generating business because of the
fast growth and rotation in a short amount of time.

What is Poultry Farming?

Poultry farming is raising any type of poultry (chickens, ducks, turkeys, or geese) to farm for
meat or eggs. Guineas and pigeons can also be used but the most popular type of poultry used for
these purposes is chickens. This can be done for domestic or commercial purposes.

Layers and broilers are probably the most common type of poultry farming.

Layers

These chickens, called "layers" are produced and raised for their production of eggs.

Broilers

Chickens that are raised for meat are called broilers.

These can also be included as different types of poultry farming as well:

• Meat production (Broilers breeding)

• Egg production (Layers breeding)
• Poultry feed production
• Chicken breeding (Hatchery)
• Egg and meat processing

42
This following information will be focusing on meat production.

Poultry Farming Techniques for Beginners: Raising Broilers

As with any business, it is always wise to start small and incrementally grow as new profits
levels are reached. In researching and learning about poultry businesses, you may receive advice
to take out loans, which gives the impression that it must start out as a very large endeavor. But
if you have raised chickens for any amount of time, you probably have some of the equipment
already purchased and remember, it isn't necessary to start out large. Beginning wisely, without
debt, is always a wise start.

Before getting started, check local regulations and laws for starting a new business, specifically a
meat production poultry business. The information of what is needed can be found at your local
extension office or city planning office.

Select location

Some may have the ability to buy or finance property in a location away from their home. This
needs to be considered with a lot of forethought. Chickens are easy to care for but they do take
time and effort to feed, water, clean up after, butcher and process. If this will be or will become a
full-time job, then it can be the "go to work" kind of job and driving to work and staying there all
day may not matter.

But depending on how many chickens you begin with, another option is to set up a location on
your established property to have the chickens close by. They become a part of the daily chores
and are close by to keep an eye on.

The location chosen is a very important aspect in the overall decisions of raising broilers.

The best area will be:

 Free from areas of natural disasters

 Quiet
 Situated in an E-W direction
 Far enough away from the ability to contaminate any water sources
 Large enough to hold the desired number of birds (and possible future expansion)
 Electricity available (which will provide light and heat)
 Access to clean water
 Ventilation. It cannot be stressed how important air quality is to the health of chickens.

Select System:

When choosing locations, one must also consider how they will house the poultry. On an
average, broiler poultry needs about 2.5 square feet space per bird. Here are several systems that
can be set up to raise poultry:

43
Free-range or extensive system

The free-range system is the oldest way of handling chickens. It allows chickens access to the
land where they can eat and forage the berries, seeds, insects, and greens. The biggest threat is
predatory animals and birds and greater access to infectious diseases like parasitic infestations.

Semi-intensive system

This is a great system where chickens are allowed access to free space but it is limited. It gives
each bird 20-30 square yards of an outside run. And ultimately gives the birds the ability to move
on to fresh ground.

Folding unit system

This is a newer setup that has become popular in recent years. A movable "chicken tractor" or
folding unit confines the birds to one small run. And is moved to a new location, giving the birds
access to new, fresh ground each day. These birds are able to access all the herbs, seeds and
forage available in that spot. And it gives the added benefits of scratching and manure to the
land.

There are a few ways that this system is slightly more complex. Food and water will need to be
packed to the birds and folding the unit and moving it to a new location is an added task. Also,
this type of setup is not possible to use in the winter months up north.

This setup will need to give each bird 4 square feet. For 25 birds, this would be making the unit 5
feet by 20 feet total. The inside housing or coop for the birds would then be 5x5. And the outside
portion has wire netting on the sides and top.

You will find excellent examples of chicken tractors on pages 40-41: Chicken Tractors

Intensive system

This system is utilized in commercial operations or when a producer doesn't have adequate land
available for keeping the birds contained in any of the other systems. Within this system, it can
be broken down into the Battery System and the Deep Litter System.

A. Battery system

This system uses a "battery" of cages and is usually used for egg farming. Each chicken has their
own cage and is totally reliant on food, water, grit, yeast, balanced minerals and nutrients to
provide vitamins A and D, like cod liver oil, dried milk powder are useful/and fish meal or other
animal protein.

They have just enough room to stand up and sit down. The usual floor space is 14 x 16 inches
with a height of 17 inches. The cage is made of metal to allow for easy cleanup and to prevent
any infestations of parasites. The eggs roll to a gutter and the droppings are collected on a tray
below the wire floor. It needs to be in a location that is well ventilated, provides adequate light
and is rodent proof.
44
There are a few advantages: any unproductive hen is known and culled. It can be used in places
where there are very limited spaces. In tropical locations, it is also very effective because the bird
is kept in the shade and is not spending excessive energy staying cool.

B. Deep litter system

This system is an effective way to raise chickens that uses an effective tool that will help keep
chickens cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The deep litter method will also give the
chickens an additional food source but also, if kept dry, will keep the smell of ammonia down
and coccidiosis and internal parasites at lower levels as well.

Straw, sawdust and leaves and chicken manure are continually added until there is approximately
8-12 inches of litter. Many times, the large pens hold up to 250 birds. The area is cleaned out
only once a year and the only ongoing maintenance is stirring the litter and adding to it.

This system can also provide another valuable and sought after item: fertilizer. This can also be
an income source for those working on making their poultry farm and chickens profitable.

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Chicken House?

This all depends on how big you want to make it!

"It can cost $250,000 to build a single chicken grow-out house. "It takes about four chicken
houses to really make a good go of it," says Lobb. "That's a million dollars right there, just to
get it started." ~Source

But there is nothing wrong with starting out small as a side business. Here are a few reasons to
start out small:

1. Adapt. There is so much to learn in a new business. And there are so many mistakes to
be made. It is easier to figure out what is going wrong when it's a smaller scale and that
makes it easier to fix as well. And many times "fixing" requires money, which is harder
to come by in a new business. But on a small scale, mistakes can be made, the changes
can be made and the show will go on without breaking the bank.
2. Viability. On a smaller scale, it is also easier to recognize if this is a business that can
succeed and if you even want it to succeed. It's not fun to continue doing something that
isn't working and you don't love. Maybe it's not an option? That's ok. Sell the last of the
chicks and equipment, and move on to the next project.
3. Cost. You won't have a loan of $250,000+ to figure out how to pay off.

The folding unit or chicken tractor can be used in at least the spring and summer months. But
depending on your area's weather patterns it may be able to be a more year around set up.

For each tractor, there will be at least several hundred dollars put into it, depending on how
savvy you are on finding wood for cheap. Your property may also have a shed or building
already built that can be used for these purposes with a run fenced in around it. Look around
your property and don't immediately dismiss ideas on how to property or buildings. There are
also great ways to create very affordable, movable shelters using pallets, hog panels, and tarp.
45
Getting started with as low of costs as possible is important. As the business takes off, then funds
can be set aside to expand, rebuild and grow.

Choose Breed
Cornish Cross

This breed is a great choice, actually the only choice, if you desire to grow out chickens in a
short amount of time. They will top their weight at 8-12 pounds in just 4-8 weeks. This ability to
grow so quickly makes the Cornish Cross a great choice for a broiler. Broiler chickens are birds
crossbred from special strains of Cornish and Plymouth Rock chickens.

There are other great meat birds but they will take quite a bit longer to grow to their full size.
These are some of those options:

Freedom Ranger

"Perfect for free range environments, these tri-colored or red feathered chickens grow to 5-6 lbs
in just 9-11 weeks. Our Freedom RangerTM brand of broiler chicks are a great alternative to fast-
growing white broiler chicks or slow-growing heritage breeds. Freedom Ranger chicks grow at a
moderate rate, reaching their peak weight of 5-6 lbs in 9 to 11 weeks. These active, robust chicks
are suitable for free range, foraging, and pasture environments and produce tender, succulent
meat with more yellow omega 3 fat and less saturated fat than fast-growing breeds." ~Source

Red Ranger

Very strong disease resistance. They have excellent dark and white meat yields and a tender
texture and great flavor.

Jersey Giant

This breed will grow to between 10-13 pounds in about 16-21 weeks but they will consume a lot
of food to get to that weight. This will probably disqualify them from any commercial or
monetizing options.

Delaware

The Delaware males can weigh up to 8.5 pounds and the females will be about 6.5 pounds. They
are hardy in heat and cold temperatures and mature rather quickly. They have friendly and calm
dispositions and can be a dual purpose bird, also laying jumbo eggs.

Equipment
Buying day old chicks and growing them into full-grown chickens in a short amount of time to
then butcher, process and sell means that there will be expenses and needed equipment.

46
  Brooders and heaters until the chicks are feathered and no longer need heat, which is
usually somewhere between 8 and 14 days, depending on the low night temperatures.
 Adequate housing for growing birds with roosts
 Feeders
 Waterers (*Nipple waterers have several advantages: less water waste, keeps water
cleaner, and less soiled litter. Proper height placement is very important. It should be high
enough for the chicken to stretch its neck up to drink but not high enough that the chicken
has to lift its breast to also reach.)
 Adequate Feed
 Bulk Feed Storage Bins
 Wheelbarrow
 Shovel
 Water Hoses
 Brooms and brushes
 Ventilation system or set up depending on the type of housing chosen
 Medication
 Shavings (if the deep litter method is chosen)
 Waste disposal system
o Litter and manure (0.5 pounds of litter is produced from every pound of meat
produced!)
o Death loss (Total flock mortality typically ranges from 5 to 12 percent)
 A tractor would come in handy at coop cleaning time if the deep litter method is used
 Disinfectant for use after each brood
 Quarantine area
 Complete and accurate records (Records are necessary for computing taxes, for checking
flock performance, for determining profit or loss, for determining returns on investment,
for locating excessive costs, and for establishing a manure management plan. The time
you spend keeping records on which to base management decisions will be one of the
best investments you make. ~Source
 Butchering location and equipment

Expected Labor
Labor will lessen as the chicks grow. But through the entire 8-12 weeks, daily, the water and
feed will need to be provided and closely monitored. All of the equipment, ventilation systems if
used, and all the equipment should be checked daily. Any malfunction of performance in any
area could be a huge setback. Continually monitoring the health of the chickens and removing
sick or dead chickens will also be an ongoing task.

The largest portion of labor will be the cleanup and removal of manure. The ability to free-range
or use movable chicken tractors will lesson this chore.

Also, the butchering and processing will take some time, unless it is contracted out to another
source or company. Marketing and spending the time finding buyers will also need a large
portion of time and mental energy as well. As the business grows, with a good, quality product,
and excellent customer care, word of mouth and repeat customers will help keep the chickens
sold.
47
At a glance here is a list of responsibilities:

 feeding
 medicating
 cleaning
 providing
 water
 buying supplies
 observing the cage environment
 observing bird health conditions
 moving chicken tractors (if used)
 manure and litter removal
 butchering
 clean up
 sanitizing
 marketing
 fixing malfunctions

Purchasing Broiler Chicks

Day old broiler chicks can be purchased from any hatchery. Reading the reviews is always so
helpful in choosing which one to use because it is the honest opinions and experiences of real
people. And the difference in raising broiler chickens, as opposed to long-term laying hens, is
that in only a couple of months there is a new brood. If the last hatchery wasn't satisfactory,
another one can be chosen.

Care of Chicks
Proper care of the chicks during the first 14 days is critical. Mortality of chicks is highest in the
first few days. The temperature should be consistently and properly managed. Feed and water
must be available and fresh.

Important Tips on Placing Chicks in Brooder:

 Placing chicks in the brooder should happen as quickly as possible after they have been
delivered.
 If they need to be transported to the brooder, it should be done in the coolest time of the
day, while also not allowing them to get cold.
 Count and record any dead chicks on arrival. Bury them immediately.
 Weigh 5% of the day-old chicks and record the average weight.

Important Steps on Placing Chicks in Brooder:

 Turn down the brooder lights if possible

 Place the chicks evenly through the brooder next to the feed and water
 Sprinkle food on the floor

48
  Turn up the brood lights
 Check chicks and temperatures after two hours to make sure everything is working
properly
 Every time a check is made, use all five sense to determine if everything is normal and
there are no problems

Checking the crop of the chicks can be very helpful in determining if the chicks have found food
and water and are getting sufficient amounts. This should be done periodically during the first 24
hours after placement by picking several chicks up at random in different spots in the brooding
area. Carefully fill their crop. It should feel soft and round and not filled with coarse bits, which
would indicate that not enough water consumption has taken place.

If the chicks arrive in good health (bright eyes, strong shiny legs, bright, chirping and active),
with no abnormalities, the mortality rate should be less than .7% during the first seven days. And
in those days the chicks should have uniform growth and reach their target weight.

After several days, these will need to be continually monitored and adjusted:

 Brooder light adjusted by observing the behavior of the flock

 Remove the newspaper after 3 days
 Adjust and raise the drinker height to always be at a height that is easily reached without
the chicks needing to stand on their tiptoes
 Adjust and raise the feeder height to always be at the lip of the feeders is always at chest
height. During the brooding stage, the feeders should never be empty
 At seven days check the Feed Conversion Rate (FCR). The chicks should weight 6.7 oz
 Usually, on day 8, the chicks are moved to the larger coop, unless the nights are cold and
the chicks need heat for several more days

Moving to the larger coop:

 This larger coop should be approximately 4'x12'

 Add litter to the coop
 Remove brooder walls
 Carefully mix the older litter with the new litter, causing as little disturbance as possible
to the birds
 Litter should be raked on days 7, 14, 20, 25, 31, in order to minimize ammonia build up
and to encourage drying
 Change any litter throughout the remaining days that gets wet under the waterers
 Clean, disinfect and store the brooder material and lights and put in storage
 Add more feeders and waterers to correspond to the number of birds and every day adjust
their height to the proper levels. It is easiest when each feeder and waterer is suspended
with a nylon cord from the ceiling
 The chickens should be allowed hours of darkness where the lights are turned off. This
gives them time to rest, which improves their health, their feed conversion ratio, and
promotes a good average weight.
 Around day 14 the birds should be given the full coop area which would be about 1.2
square feet per bird

49
Feeding Broilers
These chickens should be fed on a 12 on and 12 off schedule. All access to feed for 12 hours is
permitted and no food is fed for the next 12 hours, usually at night. If possible, put the water on
the other side of the pen. This will force the chickens to do some "work" for their meal and drink
and will help give the chickens a lean muscle instead of fat.

The reason behind not allowing access to food at all times of the day is because hatcheries
developed these birds for maximum growth, ready to be butchered between 8 to 14 weeks.
Depending on the desired weight at butchering, some of these birds are ready for slaughter by 8
weeks. Birds older than 12 weeks old and younger than 20 weeks are called roasters. But this
quick growth (which turns 2 pounds of food into 1 pounds of weight) can lead to heart attacks
and a condition called ascites, which is a congestive heart failure where fluids build up and cause
high blood pressure in the bird. 12 hours off of feed slows down the growth of the birds to
prevent them growing too fast and developing these unwanted conditions.

So for these quick growing birds, the feeding program will be the most important aspect of this
business and about 70% of total expenses will go towards the feeding program. But it's not just
feeding the birds, it feeding them quality feed that will give them the best gain and keep them at
their healthiest. Broilers require more energy and protein than other chickens do. Broiler poultry
feed is specifically formulated to give the chickens the extra protein and energy they need.
Broilers will need even more energy and protein during the winter months and through colder
temperatures to not only stay warm but to continue growing.

Extra protein can also come from these sources: Fish meal, meat meal, meat, milk, and liver, or
various types of corn, vegetables, and grains.

Provide the correct levels of the major minerals in the appropriate balance but vitamin and
mineral supplementation will depend on feed ingredients used, feed manufacturing practices and
local circumstances.

When changing feeds mix the old feed with the new feed in a 1:1 ratio to prevent any reduction
in nutrient uptake due to the introduction of another feed type.

Example Broiler Feeding Program

If the desired weight at butchering is to be 7.2 pounds, this will take approximately 56 days.

Broiler Starter Feed

Studies have shown that the optimum duration for feeding starter diet to birds grown to a target
weight of approximately 7.2 pounds to be no more than 7 days. This is usually treated with a
medication to prevent coccidia infections. This starter feed should be at least 20% protein, with
23% being even better.

50
Broiler Grower Feed

After 7 days the chicks can be started on a grower feed. And this will usually be fed for 14 to 16
days.

Broiler Finisher Feed

"The time of initiation of the finisher diet has a profound effect on live performance and carcass
composition, Inclusion of the finisher diet earlier than 42 days resulted in a reduction in body
weight, deterioration in feed conversion and calorie utilization, an increase in abdominal fat, and
a reduction in breast meat yield." ~Source

You can read a full analysis of the studies conducted and how they came to these conclusions in
the link above. It also gives the nutrient makeup of each of the feeds given to the chickens, so it
is important to note that feeds with a different nutrient content may have different results. But
this study also brings up a good point to actively be checking the birds during the entire growth
process. Optimal growth with unnecessary expenditures is of utmost importance for this business
to succeed.

Water is so very important to the health, vitality, and growth of a broiler. "It is used for heat
removal, digestion, and formation of body tissues. Broilers should consume approximately 1.5-
2.0 times as much water as feed on a weight basis." ~Source

Water sources should be tested on a regular basis and at least once a year. Things to be aware of:
High levels of iron and manganese will cause the birds to drink less because of the poor taste.
High levels of microbial contamination will cause low intestinal health and loose feces. A PH
level above 8 would give the water a bitter taste and cause the birds to not drink as much

How much is chicken feed?

The cost of feed will vary from location to location and also depends on the distributor used.

On average a broiler will consume 9 pounds of feet which equates to about $.30 a pound.

One cost analysis example of a Freedom Ranger boiler:

"Here is what Troy Griepentrog wrote about the Freedom ranger: I spent about $229.11 buying
the chicks and feed. I fed about 530 pounds of commercial feed plus about 90 pounds of whole
oats. The following numbers aren’t precise, but should be pretty close:
620 pounds of feed produced
195 pounds of live birds (3.17 pounds of feed per pound of gain — about the expected ratio).
130 pounds of meat (about $1.76 per pound)" ~Source

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Health Management
Maintaining a healthy flock is possible but several rules of engagement should be followed. The
main source of disease entry can usually be traced back to the ones who are primarily taking care
of the birds.

Principles and techniques that need to be applied:

 Limit outside visitors

 Visitors need to use a foot bath before entering the coop
 Primary care providers should have coop shoes and outside shoes. Only the coop shoes
should be used in the coop
 Don't share farm equipment
 Wash areas for hands and feet should be away from the coop
 Don't allow pets around the coop
 Always start with the youngest birds and move to the oldest birds in a multi-age farm
 Pick up any spills of feed and water immediately
 Remove dead birds immediately and dispose of properly

If there is an outbreak of disease or death, a veterinarian should be contacted and all of these
factors will be looked at: feed, light, litter, air, water, sanitation, and space.

In determining sickness, you will be looking for a depressed appearance, abnormal droppings
and respiratory symptoms.

In previous chapters of learning how to profit with poultry, it's been shown how to use the five
senses in learning how to market and sell the product efficiently. But these senses can also be
used to manage and maintain a healthy flock. You can learn so much about an animal by simply
observing on a daily basis the usual and normal actions and behaviors they exhibit. Anything out
of the normal can be seen and taught quickly.

See

These are what you can watch for:

 Chicks huddled under the brooder lamp:

o Indicates that they are cold either from a draft or the light being too high
 Chicks are gathered far away from the brooder lamp:
o Indicates that they are too hot
 Chicks gathered on one side:
o Possibly the sun is too hot
 Watch for birds that are panting or breathing heavily:
o Too hot or respiratory problems
 Birds should be eating, resting or drinking:
o Anything else could be considered abnormal
 Observe poop:
o Any blood or unusual looking poop should be a cause for concern and treated

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 o Watch for pasty butt
 Litter and conditions of ground:
o Keep an eye out for soiled areas from water spilling or leaks and any other
problems in the coop area.
 Health observations of individual chickens:
o Eyes should be clear, not tearing or cloudy
o Skin should be unblemished with no burn or hock marks
o Breast should be unblemished with no blisters
o Feathers should be clean
o Legs and feet should be firmly planted with no signs of bumble foot
o Vent/Butt should be clean with no signs of loose droppings
o Beak should have no nasal discharge
o A healthy bird should be alert

Hear

As you enter the coop, listen carefully.

 Listen to the chirps and noises

o Excited chirps: predator nearby
o Wheezing or heavy panting: sickness or heat stroke
o Hollow knocking: empty feeders
o Unusual sounds could indicate being cold or hungry

Smell

Use d eep breaths as you enter the coop area can also indicate problems.

 Strong smells of ammonia or mildew indicate wet litter and an unclean environment
o Change wet areas and refresh litter
 Dead birds should be removed immediately

Taste and Touch

These last two senses can be used in the general maintenance of feeding and watering the
chickens.

 Feeding
o Is the feed replenished and of good quality?
 Coop conditions
o Is the litter too wet? Squeeze a clump in your hand, it should fall apart and not
clump together, which indicates that it is too moist.
o Is the ventilation good? Get the air flowing if the air is stale or not moving
 Water
o Taste the source of the water. Does it taste good or does it have any problems?

Record keeping is an important aspect of raising broilers. Record the observations and any
evident changes.
53
Litter Management
Managing the litter is one of the most important jobs throughout.

Most important litter tips:

 Litter should cover entire floor of the coop and should be 3-4 inches thick
 After the brood litter is raked together with new litter, it should be raked once every 4-5
days during the first half of the cycle and then every 7 days until the end
 Litter should be regularly checked under the waterers and any soiled litter immediately
removed and new litter added
 If there are any wet areas due to increased excreta or spilled water, add litter to speed
drying
 The same litter will remain in the coop during the entire cycle
 Evaluate the litter regularly by grabbing a handful and squeezing. If it disintegrates upon
release, it's in great shape! But if it stays compact, there is excess moisture and will
impact the health of the birds because of high levels of ammonia, foul smells and
respiratory issues with the birds.

Chicken Butchering Preparation and Aftermath

Determine if you will be butchering or outsourcing the process.

Food (not water) should be withheld 6-8 hours before the birds are collected. Any less than six
hours will result in food being wasted and any more than 12 will result in weight loss in the
birds.

The birds will need to be caught and made ready to transport:

 Catch the birds in the early or late hours of the day

 Move feeders and waterers out of the way
 Dim the lighting to reduce bird activity
 Reduce the coop area
 Minimize damage to the birds: catch quickly and quietly by the feet or shank. Carry no
more than three at a time and don't pass birds from one catcher to another.
 Place birds in crates. Know the laws of your area on how many can be held in one crate.
Usually, it is 10 birds per crate or 6 per crate for larger breeds

If you decide to process the birds instead of outsourcing you will need to be very knowledgeable
of the butchering process including: Stun, exsanguinate (bleed out), scald (138 to 145° F),
defeather, remove head, neck, and legs (below hock), eviscerate, chill the meat and packaging.

It is equally important to follow all rules and regulations associated with butchering the chickens
yourself.

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Regulations
The first step in selling whole frozen chicken is to understand the regulations. When selling any
meat, there are regulations for:

 slaughtering
 processing
 labeling
 handling
 transporting
 storing
 marketing

Compliance with regulations gives the customer confidence in the product. It also gives
producers the security of knowing that they are doing everything required to provide a quality
product. Know the regulations and follow them. ~Source

Cleaning after Removal of Birds

This is a critical and important step. No new birds should be brought onto the property or into the
brooder and coops before everything has been cleaned and sanitized.

After the birds are removed, immediately apply an insecticide and clean items through wet and
dry cleaning.

Dry Cleaning:

Remove all litter, feeders, waterers, strings, light bulbs. Sanitize and thoroughly clean all areas of
the coop: walls, floor, rafters etc

Collect the litter in feed bags and sell the litter.

Wet Cleaning:

All of the feeders and waterers will need to be soaked, cleaned and allowed to dry. Clean the
outer wall. And sprinkle lime on a lightly sprinkled with water floor.

After everything in the building is cleaned, it should then be disinfected.

Repair and provide maintenance to anything that has broken or is not working properly.

55
Marketing
Sometimes getting chicks to their ideal weight is the easy part. Marketing and selling them is a
whole different matter that shouldn't be taken lightly. Selling any product takes diligent time and
effort.

It is so important that buyers are found before the poultry has reached their optimal, market
weight. Every ounce grown over the ideal weight is a direct hit on the bottom line of the
business.

Here are a few ideas to get the ball rolling on how to find customers for your delicious broilers:

1. Word of mouth. This is always an ideal way to get customers. Happy customers talk and
good talk brings in business.
2. For every customer, document their name, address, phone number and email address.
This will give you contact information to let them know when more chickens are
available. Repeat customers are awesome!
3. Advertise in local newspapers and on the local radio.
4. Distribute flyers.
5. Post on Facebook on personal profile and in local groups.
6. Craigslist can be a great way to get the word out.

In the end, communicating with your customers and potential customers is critical. Ask them
questions, survey them and find out what they are looking for. How big of a bird is ideal? How
many chickens do they prefer to buy at one time? If a customer is no longer buying, why?

What a lot of work has gone into getting the chickens to the point of marketing! But why does it
not work out sometimes?

Reasons Why Some Poultry Farms Fail

As with many businesses, poultry farms fail. Buy why? And how can you avoid failure?

1. Do your research! It is absolutely necessary to know if you have a supplier for chicks,
access to bulk feed, adequate facilities, and most importantly if there is a market for
broilers.
2. Lack of disease control. If there is no system set up to prevent come and go vehicle and
foot traffic onto the property and into the coop, disease can spread very rapidly and with
great force and finality.
3. Improper housing and facilities. Without proper control of temperature, air flow, floor
space and feed, it will be impossible to succeed.
4. Marketing flop. It isn't enough to have chicken for sale, there is a whole new dimension
to getting the word out and finding buyers and the marketing aspect of this business must
not be forgotten.

56
 5. Not investing. All businesses need to be invested back into. There will be maintenance
issues that arise and expanding needs investment as well. A solid business plan in place is
so important with investing planned into the program.
6. Improper training and lack of knowledge. Also important in this business is doing due
diligence in researching all aspects and understanding how it should be done and why.
7. Not taking advance orders. Knowing how many birds are sold, gives the ability to plan
ahead with proper numbers of chicks, feed, vaccinations, and planning.
8. Unexpected costs. With any business, there are always unexpected costs and without
forethought, planning and a reserve of cash for such events, they can be debilitating.

Price for Each Broiler Chicken

It is imperative to keep accurate records through the entire process of raising broilers. It is
estimated to be about $1.70 a pound to raise a broiler. To make an income, it is important to
price properly. This is why doing advanced research is important. What are people willing to pay
for one chicken in your area? But $3.50-4.00 a pound is reasonable.

Advantages of Poultry Farming

There is a growing understanding and desire for humanely raised, healthy chicken. People are
beginning to realize how important it is to know where the food they eat comes from. Local,
fresh food is becoming the new trend and for a small, local chicken producer, that is good news.

There is a lot to think about before endeavoring into a broiler poultry business. Give it
considerable thought and research. Keep good records, work hard and grow good chicken!

This is a subject that could be written about in many books. To read a great, more inclusive look
into this subject please read these: SOLID BROILER MANAGEMENT Training Manual, Direct
Marketing Meats

57
 How to Sell Chicken Feathers
6 (& Ideas to Make Jewelry!)

C
hicken Feathers
At some points in the year, I wander around our chicken yard and find piles of
feathers and wonder if there was a chicken massacre. But *usually* there hasn't
been. Every once in a while we've had a visit from an unknown assailant and
molting does its number on the feathers and they fly around everywhere!

Can something be done with these feathers blowing in the wind? Cluttering up the corners of the
chicken house and adorning the bottom of the favorite rooster who met his demise?

A wonderful trend is to collect these feathers and sell them! There is a lot of work into collecting
and cleaning the feathers, but what a great job to fill an hour of free time! And also a great job
for young children!

Many people also create awesome and unique jewelry, ornaments and decorations using their
chicken feathers.

Let's take a look at how it's done!

After the feathers have been collected or plucked they need to be cleaned.

How to Sanitize, Clean and Preserve Feathers Properly

 Mite and Lice Removal. Using a handful of mothballs and place the feathers and the mothballs
in an airtight container. Keep the feathers and moth balls in the container together for 24
hours. Please use care when using and storing mothballs. They are highly dangerous to humans
and animals. Use a product like this with paradichlorobenzene: Moth Balls
 Kill Bacteria. It's important to be on the safe side and kill any bacteria that may be residing in
the feathers. Soak the feathers for a half an hour to an hour in a mixture of 1/2 Isopropyl alcohol
and 1/2 hydrogen peroxide. Don't use bleach, this will cause the feathers to become brittle and
will diminish the color. Hydrogen peroxide will brighten the feathers without making them
brittle!
 Wash Feathers. Wash the feathers with a mild hand soap. Remove stains, gunk, and debris. This
will also remove any remaining chemicals and oil on the feathers.
 Lay Out to Dry. Lay them out flat, not piled up, in a warm, sunny location to dry. Dry them as
quickly as possible to stop any mold from developing.
 Fluff and Store. The feathers should be stored in an airtight container, like a ziplock bag until
they are used.

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Where Can Feathers Be Sold?
There seems to be a market for everything and the key is finding that specific market. Many
people sell their feathers from these different sources:

1. eBay
2. Craigslist
3. Local Craft Shops
4. Fly Shops
5. Craft Shows
6. Etsy
7. Facebook Groups
8. Word of mouth
9. Farmer’s Markets

What Can Be Made (and sold) With Chicken Feathers?

The ideas and creativity of what can be made with chicken feathers are endless and only a lack of
imagination could hinder a project like this!

 Dreamcatchers
 Pillows
 Ornaments
 Feather Wreaths
 Indian Feather Crafts
 Jewelry
 Home Decor

Ideas and How to Make Dreamcatchers

Dreamcatcher with Feathers and Christmas Lights

35 Dream Catcher Ideas

Dreamcatcher Orb

Ideas and How to Make Feather Ornaments

White Feather Sparkles Ornament

Glass Bulb Feather Ornament

Christmas Feather Ornament

Orb Christmas Ornaments

59
Ideas and How to Make Feather Wreaths
Beautiful Feather Wreath

Table Center Wreath

Autumn Wreath

Pinecone, Evergreen and Feathers Wreath

Find TONS More Wreath Ideas Here

Ideas and How to Make Feather Jewelry

Feather Cascading Headband

How to Make Feather Earrings

Feather Pin

Butterfly Hair Clip

Feather Hair Comb

Guinea Feather Earrings

Ideas and How to Make Feather Home Decor

Framed Feathers

Handing Glass Feather Frame

Feather Mirror

Wall Feather Bouquet

There are endless possibilities for the feathers floating around your chicken coop! Now, in your
"spare time", you can turn them into beautiful arrangements, adornments, and art!

Chickens feathers...who knew they could spawn such beauty and creativity even after
they've flown the coop!

60
 How to Sell Chicken Manure
7 (The Scoop on All That Chicken Poop!)

C
hicken Manure
Where horses, cows, and chickens abound...there may not be a market for
manure sales.

But it's worth exploring. There is a need and desire for organic, fertilizer and
compost. And in some communities, there is a restriction on how many
chickens are allowed. For instance, some towns only allow residents to own up to 4 hens and no
roosters. Chickens do poop a lot but it would take four chickens a bit of time to produce a
substantial amount of manure.

Chicken manure is an excellent source of nitrogen and also has a good amount of potassium and
phosphorus. This balanced nutrient composition makes chicken manure compost a really good
choice for gardens. And people are willing to pay for quality products that enhance their flower
beds and gardens!

Throughout the year, save a pile of feed bags and when the coop cleaning commences, scoop the
poop and bedding into the feed bags. Some places can get $20.00 a bag, which adds up over
time! It also may be an experiment in finding out if people will pay for uncomposted chicken
manure for use in their own composting piles or if they only want it after it's been fully
composted. Chicken manure should be allowed to sit for at least a year before it is ready to be
used in a garden. Hot composting will speed up this process but is considerably more work to get
it to that point.

If you aren't able to sell your chicken manure and litter, there are other uses that don't generate
income directly but add benefits that shouldn't be missed.

For instance, do you have a vegetable garden that grows food for your family and the extra
veggies are sold to the community? Your garden dirt needs some TLC and composted chicken
manure can give your garden a boost! Or maybe you own hay ground that needs a bit of fertilizer
and chicken manure would give it just what it needs. Chicken manure is great in hot compost
because it helps get the party going and heats things up. These ideas don't immediately add
money to the bank, but they do add value.

If you do have a considerable amount of chicken manure, it would be wise to contact the local
feed stores, local extension agent, and farm and ranch stores to let them know that you have
chicken manure available. Even adding a sign to a farmer's market table can generate curiosity
and develop some leads.

Chicken manure: don't dismiss this gold nugget. You might have to dig for it, but your chickens
are working hard to get it to you!

61