NAME OF THE DEPARTMENTS IN FOOTWEAR

MANUFACTURING UNIT AND THE DETAIL OF

MACHINERY REQUIRED THEREIN​.

1. DESIGNING AND PATTERN CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

2. UPPER CLICKING DEPARTMENT.
3. UPPER PREPRATION DEPARTMENT.
4. UPPER CLOSING DEPARTMENT.
5. BOTTOM CLICKING AND PREPRATION DEPARTMENT.
6. LASTING DEPARTMENT.
7. BOTTOM MAKING DEPARTMENT.
8. POLISHING AND FINING DEPARTMENT.
9. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT.
10. PACKING FORWARDING DEPARTMENT​.

In the aforesaid departments different types of operations are carried out for which
different type of footwear manufacturing machines are required. Their detail is as under:-

1. DESIGNING AND PATTERN CUTTING DEPARTMENT​.

In this department Footwear designs are developed and later on their patterns are
prepared and graded. Shoe designing is basically done by hand but in the modern era this
is done with the help of computers. This is called CASD (computer aided shoe designing)

For manual Pattern cutting following machines are required:-

a) Pantograph (for pattern grading)

b) Metal sheet pattern cutting device.
c) Pattern shearing device.
d) Pattern’s edge binding machine.

For computer aided shoe designing following equipments are required:-

a) Computer set with desirable configuration.

b) Footwear designing and pattern grading software.
c) Digitizer.

Manual 3D Digitisers
 d) Pattern cutting Plotter.
Cutting Plotter (for Footwear Patternmaking)
Vinyl Cutting Plotter

Get High Performing Vinyl CuttingPlotter From Trusted

Manufacturer.laserengraverindia.com/08800117600.

●
Wholesale - Cutting Plotter (for Footwear Patternmaking)_edo-1652a
● Wholsale Category:​Industrial Supplies & Machinery​ » ​Apparel & Textile
Machinery​ » ​Shoemaking Machinery & Parts
● Keywords:​cutting plotter​ , ​patternmaking​ , ​shoe machine
● Brief intro:EDO-1652A, BASIC model of Jingwei flatbed cutting plotters for footwear
patternmaking, is able to process kinds of media up to 2mm thick, with dual toolhead for both
cutting and plotting. (Valid Cutting Area: 900mm*600mm) 1. Easy to operate. 2. Compatible
with any CAD software. 3. High speed and accuracy. 4, Stable performance with long using
lifetime. Specification: Model: EDO-1652A Max. Cutting Speed: 800mm/s Max. Cutting Depth:
2mm Cutting Media: Kinds of hard cardboards, plastic boards, PVC boards, M.G. wrapping
paper, kraft paper and fibrous boards, etc. Toolhead: Cutting knife + Plotting pen Compatible
Pen: Gel-ink Pen, Water-based fiber-tip pen, Oil-based pen, Ballpoint, etc. Compatible Cutting
Knife: Special steel knife, Tungsten steel knife Media-fixture Method: Vacuum absorption
Repeat Precision: ≤0.1mm Programmable Resolution: HP-GL 0.025m, 0.01mm, 0.1mm
available Interface: Serial port and Parallel port Access Buffer Capacity: 512 MB Command
Mode: HP-GL compatible format Operation Panel: LCD touch button panel Transmission
System: Stepper motor + Synchronous belt Power Supply: AC 220V ±10%, 50HZ / 2KW Valid
Cutting Area: 900mm*600mm

e) Scanner, printer and photo copier

2. UPPER CLICKING DEPARTMENT.

In this department the upper, lining & fabric components are clicked either by hand or
with the help of machines.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Mechanical clicking press.

b) Hydraulic swing arm clicking press.
ATOM Swing Arm Cutting M/C

Atom the world leader among the producers of swing arm presses.Among the most interesting
features of ATOM's swing-arm cutting systems we point out the hydraulic system, designed and
patented by Atom. It enables our machines to generate a cutting power up to 25 tons using an
electrical engine of just one Hp, therefore electric power absorption is very limited.

The main features to be considered while evaluating a sing arm press are:

● structural features, such as the cutting power, the size of the cutting pad and of the cutting
arm.
● control systems such as the power setting, the fine tuning of the stroke end, the devices
hat make the arm easier to move.Atom produces four lines of swing arm presses:
● "​Multiforce light swing​" line: the ​Multiforce​ system sets automatically the cutting
pressure to maximise the ease of use and reduce the consumption of the cutting pad up to
50%. The ​lightswing​ system ensures the maximum ergonomics, to lower operator's
tiredness.
● line "​100​": three different cutting pressures to deal with dies having different height and
blade development quickly and easily.
● line "​SAB​": the clicking arm moves automatically so that the operator can work with the
minimum effort.
 ● line "​SE​" (Entry Level): the basic machines, with automatic setting of stroke end.
Working with dies of different height is not a problem any more. Most models
can be produced both in the "CE" version, that is respecting the European safety rules and
in the "non-CE" version.

SWING BEAM CUTTING

MACHINE

Details
Swing beam cutting machine​(QF-​116 swing beam), ​shoe machine​, shoemaking​ machinery
Function:
Used for cutting of leather and other shoes material.
Features:
1. Unique hydraulic system with fast speed, low noise and low oil temperature during
cutting process.
2. The manual switch is durable.
3. Power-saving, this machine is safe with low malfunction and is only 0.75 kw, a motor
protecion device is also installed in the machine.
4. Labor-saving: this machine is easy to operate with easy swing and high security.
5. the stroke is controlled by two types of cutting which is very convenient for users to
operate it accurately.

c) Hydraulic rotating head clicking press.

HYDRAULIC TRAVELLING HEAD CUTTING PRESS
 Product 4. HYDRAULIC TRAVELLING HEAD CUTTING PRESS
Model TS-657
Application APPLICATION:Suitable for cutting material such like rubber, plastic, leather,
nylon cardboards, synthetic material non-metal material etc.
Features 1. This machine is suitable for cutting one layer or several layers of material such
as leather, plastic, canvas, nylon, paper boards and synthetic materials.
2. The movement of the press is controlled by a rod and the switch of automatic
movement. It is easy to operate.
3. The structure of travelling head helps the operator to have a good open view.
The machine is also equipped with a light for the operators' working at night.
4. Two-hand operation and no continuous cutting make the machine highly safe.
5. Double-faced cutter is applicable.
6. The cutting stroke can be speedily adjusted in accordance with the height of
cutter and the thickness of material.
7. The roller feeding system is available.
Specification
Model CF-756MA
Cutting force 20 tons
Cutting head(LxW) 500x500mm
Cutting pad(LxW) 1600x500mm
Stroke 5-150mm
Horse power 3HPx1,0.5HPx1
N.W. 2050kgs
G.W. 2350kgs
Dimension of machine(LxWxH) 2000x750x2120mm
Packing size(LxWxH) 2420x1010x2200mm
Hydraulic oil 95 liters

a) Clicking dies with provision of marking and perforation.

b) Straps / belts cutting machine.
c) Spiral cutting machine.
3. UPPER PREPRATION DEPARTMENT.

In this department clicked components are prepared before forwarding to upper closing
section.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Bend knife Upper splitting machine.

LEATHER BANDKNIFE SPLITTING MACHINES
Features & Specification

One Leather Splitting Machine Model C 520 L electronical 520mm working width complete
with three-phase motors Volts 415 / 50 upper roll, lower rubber coated feed roll and traditional
grinding stones. Attachment adjustable in width to skive straps: one basic kit (feed table and
cross beam) one tools for skiving (in couple) and four band knives. The machine is in
Guaranteed perfect working condition.

MADE IN Italy​
Price EU 9000
see product details:
http://www.hiwtc.com/products/camoga-leather-splitting-machine-594713-5096.htm
 HIGH SPEED ELECTRONIC
BANDKNIFE SPLITTING
MACHINE

Details

HIGH SPEED ELECTRONIC BANDKNIFE SPLITTING MACHINE

Features:

1. Unique designs in appearance, elegant and graceful outline; unique design in top bar
which makes the thick leather in without replacing the feeding roller.
 2. No need to adjust the units of wheel & clamping knife while replacing knife; diamond
grinding wheels is used as grinding unit.
3. Specified grinding micro-control; independent collectors for grinding dust and scrap.
4. 4-shift adjustment for working spressure, simple operation manual while easy to be
understand where display the specification of thickness digit.
5. Low noise less than 70db. It's not necessary to remove the universal joint before the
replacement of top rolling wheel and top bar.
6. All parts or components of this machine are easy to remove and install to make easy
maintenance and repair
N.W G.W Dimensions Packing Size Power
Model
QF-4
650kg 850kg 1600*1300*1100mm 1800*1400*1300mm 2.7kw
20A
QF-5
670kg 980kg 1700*1300*1100mm 1900*1400*1300mm 3.1kw
20A

b) Edge skiving machine.

Upper skiving machine

1. Uniform skiving.
2. Easy to operate by clutch.
 3. Provided with good quality bell knife & feed rolled, grinding wheel.

Technical Data
Electrical

1. Clutch motor - 0.5 HP

2. Machine height - 340 mm
3. Machine width - 360 mm
4. Machine length - 530 mm
5. Table height - 770 mm
6. Table length - 1130 mm
7. Table width - 500 mm
8. Machine net weight - 200 kg
LEATHER SKIVING MACHINES

c) Thermo edge folding machine.

AUTO-CEMENT EDGE
FOLDING MACHINE
 Details
Auto-cement edge folding machine, shoe machine, shoemaking machinery
​Features:
1. The edge folding machine is the combination of auto-cementing and upper edge folding
machine. As leather can be both cemented and edge-folded by it, it saves the labor from
the manual cementing and improves the production.
2. The machine through the thermal cement can fold the upper edges after cemented.
3. Rotate the button to adjust temperature and flow quantity of the thermal cement easily
and accurately.
4. Through photosensitive resistance controls the glue exudation automatically with stability
and accuracy.
5. The machine has the function of auto-fighting tooth, becoming slowly when edge-folding
to a corner which can improve the edge-folding of materials. With the new-style folding
device and improved pressing guiding device etc.
6. When put in the leather material hammer can open automatically as well as the pressing
foot can lift automatically. New style regulator makes the adjustment easier.

Model Dimensions(LWH) N.W Voltage

QF-298 1200*550*1250mm 135kg 220V
JD-293A Automatic Speed Change Cementing Folding Machine
USE
It is used to carry out hot-​melt adhesive​ folding operation of ​leather products​, PVC, PC, natural skin and artificial
skin etc. materials in shoe-making industry, leather industry, handbag industry and mobile coer etc.
CHARACTERS
The machine carries out whole-course folding operation by adopting computer chip intelligent control. The
functions can be set through the panel display to control the machine. With the automatic electronic sensing
operatation of leading technology, it is the most advanced folding equipment in the industry. It has a multifunctional
folding system integrating automatic gluing, automatic cutting, automatic pressure foot hoisting, electronic
locating, ​French style​edging and insole covering etc. and the safety coefficient
has reched CE standard. The folding width is maintained equal when folding, additionally, the reinforcing belt can
be folded into.
Automatic folding​ and no need to step.
When automatic folding of outcurve, ​straight line​ and incurve, the rotate speed of main shaft can be set separately.
The machine adopt the computer chip to deal with the circus system, and adopt driving motor to control the function
of distance change incurve, stratight line and outcurve.
The distance of folding process can be adjusted form 1mm to 8mm.
Automatic glue head lifting and no need to step.
Automatic cutting when incurve.
The dual protection of gluing system can make no glue drop and absorb the glue automatically.
With the automatic electronic locating of ​servo motor​, it can seve 70% ​energy and electricity​.
The reinforcing belt can be folded in together, so that, the ​tensile strength​ of the material edge can be strengthened.
French style edging (select sprarparts).
Insole covering (select spartparts).

PARAMETER
Model JD-293A
Power 220V 50Hz
Power of motor 0.55Kw
Total power 1.5Kw
Folding widh 3-7mm
Exterior size 1200*500*1160mm
Weight 123Kgs
 d) Reinforcement tape applying machine.
Seam Spening & Tape Attaching Machine

4.
Upper wheel teamed up with lower wheel feed the material which increases the cohesion
between leather or clothes. This machine is useful for appearance finishing of the heel
vamp after sewing, and reinforcing good appearance by pressing the glued heel vamp.

a) Straps folding machine.

b) Lamination machine.

c) Latex spraying machine.

d) Numbering machine.

e) Upper & lining stamping machine

.
f) Hydraulic embossing machine
 HF 15X20 and HF 12X15.
High Frequency embossing and cutting machine:
15x20 (15Kw and 20 Tons) and 12x15 (12Kw and 15 Tons).
HF machines feature dual side movable tables with Continuous, in-sequence operation
process for embossing and cutting in one stage. This superb machine produces high
quality embossing of shoe uppers and outsoles. It can be used for other applications as
well. The combined embossing and cutting process provides; a perfect edge finishing,
reduced production time, and a high degree of positioning precision when combining
cutting and embossing geometries.
Features:
● Microprocessor control which provides process accuracy and repeatability
● Improved operator protection complying with the highest safety standards.
● Dual movable loading tables, to optimize machine utilization.
● Powerful booster system to maximize the pressure during the embossing and
cutting process.
● Different application can run in sequence on each table for increased agility,
flexibility and work volume.
● Shield Protection against RFI (Radio frequency interference) to
avoid interference with other nearby devices.
● Hypersensitive Arc Suppressor circuit; automatically cuts the high frequency
power on any spark event.
● CE certified; Optional.
EMBOSSING MACHINE

g) Back part moulding machine. (hot & cold)

h) Hot cementing machine.

i) Fusing machine.
j) Hydraulic vamp crimping machine.
5. UPPER CLOSING DEPARTMENT.

In this department all the components of upper and lining are assembled together with the
help of different types of sewing machines.
For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Flat bed single needle industrial sewing machine

b) Flat bed double needle industrial sewing machine

c) Post bed single needle industrial sewing machine.

d) Post bed double needle industrial sewing machine.

e) Cylinder bed industrial sewing machine.

f) Edge binding industrial sewing machine.
g) Zig – Zag industrial sewing machine.

h) Moccasin stitching machine.

i) Moccasin pre-forming machine.

 j) Punching and Eyeleting machine.

6.
7. BD-95 Eyeletting Machines
8. USE
9. The machine adapts to riveting the ​metal​ double-side eyelets on shoes, leather, ​paper
bag​ and clothing
10. CHARACTERS
11. 1.The machine can automatically punch or continuously punch and rivet ​eyelets​.
2.The punching and eyeletting can be finished once.
3.Can adjust the pitch of two eyes freely according to the requirement.
4.The riveted ​shoes​ eyes are neat, beautiful and ametabolic.
 5.Easy operation and reliable performance.
6.The efficiency is 8-15 times of ​manual operation​.
12. PARAMETER

Model BD-95
Nailing speed 220Time/min
Spacing adjustment 12-30mm
Nailing size 200-600#
Power of motor 0.55Kg
Exterior size 850*580*1560mm
Weight 250Kg

a) Strobel machine.
b) Lining trimming machine.

c) Back seam pressing machine.

d) Thread burning device.
13. BOTTOM CLICKING AND PREPRATION DEPARTMENT.

In this department all the components of bottom are clicked and prepared as per the job
requirement such as Outer sole, Insole, and Stiffener, Toe puff, belt and shank
attachment.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Mechanical clicking press.

b) Hydraulic rotating head clicking press.
c) Heavy duty skiving machine.
d) Insole edge trimming machine.
e) Shank attaching machine.
f) Stiffener moulding machine.
g) Sole leather splitting machine

14. LASTING DEPARTMENT.

In this department ready shoe uppers are conditioned, prepared and mounting on the shoe
lasts after the insole is attached.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Pneumatic insole tacking machine.

b) Upper conditioning machine.
c) Toe puff mulling machine

Toe puff attaching machine – Pneumatic

 This machine has electrical controls and pneumatic running for thermo adhesive toe puff
application. The startup key board is preset for continuous work and guarantees the operators
safety.

Technical data

1. Heater – 220 v x 200 w

2. Weight – 30 kg
3. Width – 510 mm
4. Length – 660 mm
5. Height – 1700 mm

TOE UPPER STEAM SOFTENING MACHINE

Details
Toe upper steam softening machine, shoe machine, shoemaking machinery
FEATURES：
1.The machine is mainly used for vamp leather and sheeting tip binding.
2.the material of sheeting tip can be pasted with vamp by pre-spraying
thermoplastic glue or pre-spraying glue over ordinary material and coating
with gule inside,then binding with vamp.
3.The machine adopts pneumatic driving and use upper and lower moulds to
bind the vamp leather with sheeting tip.The binding shall be done after the
inside coated with glue so that the vamp leather and sheeting tip can be bound
together as an integral part.
4.The design of arc shape upper and lower moulds will facilitate the
processing later.The arc upper mould is provied with heating device to melt
the pre-coated glue and will make the vamp firmer after pressing.
5.The time and temperature of pressing can be adjusted upon the requirement
of processed materials.
6.Under the lower mould,there is a small pole,which can conduct pressing by
upper mould after the sheeting tip is pressed in alignment,this design can
ensure accurate location of sheeting tip on vamp.
.
d) Fore part pulling over & lasting machine.
TOE LASTING MACHINE
 Toe Lasting Machine​( QF-838D(MA)Computer Control Auto-cementing
,shoe machine, shoemaking machinery, shoe machinery, lasting machine, toe
lasting machine

FEATURES:
1. This machine adopts the advantages and functions of Toe Lasting
Machine from Italy and Taiwan,together with the creation.
2. Toe lasting，side lasting and heel lasting don’t have to cement before
lasting, ,by doing so ,not only save labor force,but cement well after passed
heating machine and assured the perfect shape.that’ to say,not only save labor
force,but also the cost of electricity.
3. The machine is epuipped with cross projector assembly,which is
convenient for correcting toe lasting and helps new comers to easily operate
the machine.
4. Pressure's first pressure operate independently, when press the front of
the shoe, it can stop pressing downforward in order to make the last perfect,
which also can switch off the action of pressure, to adjust the time of cramp
and the orientation time of the support plate and the last support plate, the
movement of the wiper also clear to observe.
5. Multiple stage attaching forming band together with lasting last can
attach the upper without wrinkle to asssure the shoe beautiful.
6. The initiate auto-orientation micro switch of the seat, change the
traditional method of adjustment with the push of screw. It fits for the different
sizes of the shoe, to achieve time- saving, labor-saving and shortcut.
7. The system of pincer press can adjust the pressure independently, which
reduce the chances of destroying the upper caused by the fast rising of the
support plate.
8. The adjusable function of support plate and the multiple stage transform
of speed have special protection to leather and the upper with high brittleness
or short size. In this way, the bursting of upper and the pnenomena of swept
mid-sole can be avoided.
9. The last support plate high-low point adjustor is located outside of the
machine, which make the adjustment convenient, also provide a numerical
instruction, the accident caused by old typeed adjustable equipment also can
be avoided.

COMPUTERIZED PULLING ● The machine is equipped with an automatic

OVER CEMENT TOE LASTING cementing system. For being lasted the sole
MACHINE and vamp do not need manually cemented in
advance, which saves much labour cost.
Moreover the shoe will never be
decementedafter being lasted, and the shape
of the shoe has been perfect.
 ● With the design of specially tracked wipers,
the all-around multipoint press fitting ensures
the upper to be evenly attached to the last
after lasting. No gathering will occur and the
quality of the product is excellent and perfect.
● Each set of princers can be selected and
controlled according to the tension of the
vamp.
● If it is necessary, after the vamp being firmly
clamped, the operator can manually let any
set of princers pull down or reclemp the vamp
to get the best tension and attachment to the
last.
● The mid princers can be adjusted with
different angles, which is more feasible for
lasting special shgape of shoes and can be
applied to a wider scope.
● The wiper is functioned with a jog adjustment
system. By means of computer input of
necessary lasting points, the setting of wipers'
routes becomes easier and fatser, and the
digital display is clear and legible, which
saves the operator much time.
● The machine is also equipped with a cross
projector, which makes the calibration
between the toe of last and upper more
convenient and also helps a new operator
acquaited with the machine more easily.
● The touch screen is protected by some
passwords to prevent any change from
unauthorized person.
● The hydraulic system is a design of high and
low pressure cycle loop, which ensures a
steady oil temperature and makes every part a
longer life and better steadiness, All pressure
adjustments and timers are set on the outside
of the machine which made the machine
operation and adjustment more convenient.

Dimension(LXWXH) 1810X1000X1950mmXmmXmm

Packing
1970X1090X2120mmXmmXmm
Size(LXWXH)
Production 1500-1800 Pairs/8hr
Pressure 50kg/cmXcm
Weight 1300kgw
Power 2HP
Electro heat 1.75kw
Hydraulic Oil 80Liter
e) Seat lasting machine.
HYDRAULIC AUTO HEEL SEAT ● The machine is suitable for lasting the shoes with
LASTING MACHINE general and sof midsoles and with the heels at a
height less than 180mm.
● This machine is equipped with the lasting height
micro switch, which makes the machine easily
adjusted and find position accurately.
● We have full sizes of wipers and forming bands,
which fit and shapes of shoes. The forming bands
are wrapped by chain and can accordingly
produce a good forming effect.
● This machine adopts gears. Gear racks and
ratchets to quickly and precisely adjust the
auxillary supporter.
● The second time and pressing of the last
supporter works with wiper heating device to
increase the lasting effect. It smoothes the lasting
areas and upgrade the quality of the shoes.
● Special design of rising oilway of shoe tree
holder controls completely the shoe tree in the set
position in the course of upper binding.

Dimension(LXWXH 1200X760X1420mmXmmXm
) m
Packing 1270X820X1680mmXmmXm
Size(LXWXH) m
Production 2000 Pairs/8hr
Weight 580kg
Power 2HP

THE ​HEEL LASTING

MACHINE​
Details
Features:

the ​heel lasting machine​ (QF-727A ), shoes machine, shoe machine, shoemaking
machinery

1.This machine is suitable for lasting the shoes with general and soft midsoles and with
the heels less than 180mm.

2.This machine is equipped with micro switch of lasting height, which makes the
machine easily adjusted and find position accurately,
3.We have full sizes of wiper and forming bands, they fit shoes in any shapes. The
forming bands are wrapped by chine and can accordingly produce a good forming effect.

4.This machine adopts gears, gear racks and ratchets to adjusts the auxiliary supporter
quickly and precisely.
 5.The second pressing of the last supporter works with the wiper-heating device to
increase the lasting effect. It smooths the lasting area and upgrade the quality of the shes.

6.Special design of rising oilway of shoe holder controls completely the shoe last at the
set position during lasting.

Model No. N.W/kg G.W/kg Packing Size/mm

QF-727A 1200 1400 1220*860*1600

f) Side lasting machine.

THE ​HEEL SEAT AND SIDES LASTING MACHINE

Details
The ​heel seat and sides lasting machine​ ( with computer
and auto-cementing ) QF-728DA(MA)
1. Different inner and outer waist cementing path: easy and flexible control on
cementing path without any complicated setting.
2. Active cement-stopping device: with quick and accurate response of
cement-stopping device, lower probability of leakage.
3. Independent pincer pulling: separately adjustable pulling for left and right
pincer by manual or automatic operation, providing natural
tension distribution against to the upper.
4. Overlapped seat and side lasting: smooth the connection between seat and
side lasting, makes a fast and excellent cementing result.
5. Pincer inward pulling: extra inward pulling after pincers grasping the upper,
which presses upper against to shoe last tighter.
6. Encoder controls side lasting: accurate side cementing path, wiper moves in
accurately.
7. Dynamoelectric pincer position adjustment: slight touch on the switch,
pincers can be moved to the best pulling position by proper pull force.
8. Touch screen interface: humanized controlling device which makes easy
operation and maintenance.
9. Auto-balanced forming band moves up and down: auto-balance gap
between wipers, make a perfect seat lasting result.
10. Computerized control: PLC control device enables machine to have
maximum flexibility.
11. Operation parameters storage: saving up to 30 timer and operation
parameters, timing for different shoe style.
12. Separate lasting block mechanism: combined with unique hydraulic
system, makes inner waist against to the lasting tighter and firmer with a
perfect effect.
13. Intelligent automatic fault warning: warnings for various incipient faults,
easy operation and maintenance.
14. Motor-driving cementing mechanism: stable and adjustable quantity and
length of cementing with excellent cementing quality.

Packing size
Model Dimensions(LWH) Production
(LWH) Weight Power

QF-728DA( 1650*1350*2200mm 1500pairs/8hrs

1800*1450*2000mm 1070kg 2HP
MA)
g) Trimming machine for uppers.
h) Pounding-up machine.
 QF-206B Pounding machine of ​shoe making​ machine

i) Wrinkle chasing machine.

j) Heat setting machine.

 HEATING CHAMBER

Details
FEATURES:
1.This machine applied Italian originated fully automatic passage design.
2.Italian originated parts, safe and reliable.
3.High speedy hot air convection can finish the upper-forming in very short
time.
4.Fine designed, electric saved, high efficiency, and easy to maintain.
5.With high evaporate temperature of 200 degrees, it is very suitable for the
forimig of all kinds of shoes and boots.
Dimensions(LWH) Production Power
Model
QF-1
2500*950*1540mm 1400pairs/8hrs 13
38S
QF-1
3500*950*1540mm 2000pairs/8hrs 17.2
38L

k) Ironing-cum-plating machine
l) Drying and setting machine.
DRYING CHAMBER
Details
This Dryness activation Machine can make an excellent activation effect for
shoes.
FEATURES:
1. The jet air chamber design use the hot air realize the recycle using to save
energy.
2. This machine use dry and activation process for 5-8 minutes which equals
25-30 minutes from the traditional dry model, as a result, it improves
productivity greatly and saves cost.
3. The temperature of dry and activation for the vamp and sole can be
controlled separately. The using of this activation device can get the better
activation.
4. With the new-style automatic adjusting shelf suit for any shoe model in
different sizes.

Model N.W Voltage Production

Power
11.3-11.
QF-602 1200KG 380V/50HZ 1400pairs/8hrs
5KW

m) Lasting Jacks.
n) Nail removing machine.

15. BOTTOM MAKING DEPARTMENT.

In this department outer sole is attached on the mounted upper after roughing, buffing
and heat reactivation. The sole is pressed with pneumatic sole pressing machine.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Upper roughing machine with dust collector.

GRINDING ROUGHEN M/C WITH DUST COLLECTOR
 Product GRINDING ROUGHEN M/C WITH DUST COLLECTOR (TWIN HEAD
TYPE)
Model TS-HC-253
Application The m/c is suitable for the sole agter lasting to paste the sole to grind
roughen, Since, the grinding & dust collecting use same motor, simple of
operating & not to occupyany space. The steel-wire wheel can be replaced
grinding wheel, thus the unnecessary paint leather grind roughen, simple of
operating, high efficiency.
Features The m/c is suitable for the sole agter lasting to paste the sole to grind
roughen, Since, the grinding & dust collecting use same motor, simple of
operating & not to occupyany space. The steel-wire wheel can be replaced
grinding wheel, thus the unnecessary paint leather grind roughen, simple of
operating, high efficiency.
Specification
Model HC-253
Power 2HP
N.W./G.W. 140kgs/200kgs
Machine size 940*920*1520mm
Measrement 900*970*1630mm
c) Bottom buffing and scouring machine with dust collector.
d) Pneumatic dusting cleaning machine with dust collector.
e) Adhesive applying machine.
f) Heat reactivation and setting machine.

g) Hydraulic / pneumatic sole pressing machine. (DOP)

SOLE ATTACHING MACHINE

Details
Features:

Sole attaching machine ​(QF-818A/QF-818B/QF-818C), shoe machine,

shoemaking machinery
 QF-818A Heavy-duty sole attaching machine (without sole-floating)
QF-818B
1. This machine is fully controlled by hydraulic system. It is suitable for
outsole attaching of jogging shoes, walled sports shoes and casual shoes. The
operation of outsole preessing, and front-rear pressing can be accomplished
simultaneously or respectively. The heavy pressing helps the shoe industry
with higher production.
2. There is a prepared oil-tank to supplement oil when cylinder rising which
makes the rising faster and saves the operation time to increase benefit.
3. The hydraulic automatic balancing system is adopted for the machanism of
pressing rods. The height of rods need no manual adjustment which simplifies
the operaton.
4. The design of automatic bias angles setting for the machanism of pressing
rods makes shoes locate easily and even for boots.
5. When the mechanism of front-rear forming bands retreat, a special circiut
device is adopted to control the receding stroke, and the proper receding
distance is controlled according to the shoes locating in different size.
6. There is a peressure adjusting function for every operation which makes the
pressing result pefect.
7. Automatic balancing rods and swing attaching mechanism:
The height of attaching rods is controlled by hydraulic automatic balance
system so it isn't necessary to adjust the attaching rods when the height of last
is different, it also could ensure the pressure of the two attaching rods almost
the same as well as the attaching power on every point of the sole. The
attaching rods can swing simultaneously. It is convenient to put or take out of
the last. The design is better than the old one with fixed attached rods.
8. Side attaching machanism
The side attaching adopts the whole hydraulic controlling system. There are
nine pieces of rubber foaming pressing objects to make a tight pressing
according to the shape of shoes. Each forming pressing object is controlled by
individual cylinder of which pressure reaches 250-300kg/s.Two sets of these
forming pressing objects individually are in the front and back for options to
ensure the best performance of side attaching.
9. Special function for QF-818B
a. There are eighteen pressing pads on the bottom of the pressing
machanism.The pads are controlled by cylinders to rise and down to firm the
shoes in different shape.
b.The pressing pads can be changed with different height ones or be modified
to meet different shapes of outsoles without using models so as to save cost.
Model Dimensions(LWH) Packing size(LWH) Weight Pressure Power
QF-818A 1080*1180*1950mm 1380*1380*2300mm 1280KG 20~50kgs/cm2 3HP
QF-818B 1080*1180*1950mm 1380*1380*2300mm 1280KG 20~50kgs/cm2 3HP
QF-818C 1080*1180*1950mm 1380*1380*2300mm 1280KG 20~50kgs/cm2 3HP
h) Heat setting machine.
 i) Chiller.

CHILLING MACHINE

Details
j) Chilling Machine​, shoe machine,shoemaking machinery, QIFENG
shoemaking machinery
FEATURES:
1. This machine adopts advanced technology, imported compressor and
components originated from Italy.
2. The conveying belt is made of special material provided with refrigerating
regulating device which can accelerate the stabilization of aqueous glue and
ensure perfect jointing, what’s more, it keeps optional shape after dilating and
free of mold growth.
3. Double side concentrated heat insulation material used in the shell has good
heat preservation performance and can reduce energy consumption.
4. The large power refrigerating system with dual track cooling air and double
automatic doors is equipped, with automatic unfreezing device makes shorter
refrigerating time and a good molding result, which also saves last and
production cost.
5. the powerful refrigerating system and high rotation speed air circulation
system will reach up to -20​℃​ instantly.
Model Dimensions(LWH) Daily output Power
QF-238S 3500*900*1580mm 1500pairs/8hrs 4.1
QF-238L 4260*900*1580mm 2000paris/8hrs 7.5

k) Heel nailing machine.

HEEL NAILING MACHINE
Details
Shoe machine, ​heel nailing machine​, shoemaking machinery for the
shoemaking industry
Features:
1. This machine with easy operation, it saves time and labor, with high
efficiency, seldom faults occur.
2. It can deal with various nails, such as two-foot nail, four-foot nail, tooth nail
and screw etc.
Model Dimensions(LWH) Packing size (LWH) N.W Pressure
Power
QF-86
752*622*1613mm 1080*1050*2190mm 400kg 2HP 25~35kg/cm2
4
k) Outsole stitching machine.
16. POLISHING AND FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

In this department after the sole attachment the shoe is dressed, cleaned, coloured,
polished and brushed gently before it is sent for final inspection.

For this purpose following machines are required:-

a) Combined finishing machine.

b) Edge colouring machine.

c) Spraying booth with compressor and spray gun.

Spray Booth
Spray booth with water circulation with outlet exhaust.

Technical data
Electrical
1. ½ HP motor 2800 RPM – Exhaust motor
2. ¼ HP motor – water pump motor
3. Overall height – 2000 mm
4. Machine height – 1700 mm
5. Machine length – 430 mm
6. Machine width – 915 mm
7. Machine net weight – 200 kg

d) Drying chamber
e) Polishing and brushing machine.
POLISHING MACHINE
Details
Polishing machine​, shoes machine, shoe machinery, shoemaking machinery
Features:
1. This machine is suitable for a wide range of operations, such as
roughing, polishing, coloring, edge-trimming and waxing various soles.
2. It's the ideal equipment for outsole's beauty treatment, and also applicable
for polishing parts such as watches, plastics and glasses.
Max.
Model Dimensions(LWH) Power N.W Voltage
Speed
QF-337 1100*900*1300mm 3kw 175kg 380V/50/hz
2280r/min
f) Delasting machine.

LAST SLIPPING MACHINE

Hydraulic last slipping machine, shoemaking machinery, shoe machine, shoes
machinery for the shoemaking industry.
Features:

1. This machine can save labor and with fast speed which improves the
production.
2. It applies to any kind of shoes under adjustment.
3. Rare faults and noiseless, easy to operate, and never make damage to vamp.
Model N.W
Dimensions(LWH) Power
QF-208 150KG 1HP
520*320*1050mm
Stamping Machine
17. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT.

In this department most of the work is done manually therefore no machine is required
here except edge burning. For major work the finished products are sent back to the
concerned department to do the needful.

18. PACKING FORWARDING DEPARTMENT.

After final inspection the finished goods comes in this department for packing and
forwarding to the buyer as per his instructions. The shoes are packed in shoe boxes and
than packed in wooden cartoons which are tightened with iron or plastic strips and clips.
For this purpose few hand tools are required.
QF-682 Shoes Machinery Heel Nailing Machinery
JD-501S Riveting Machines

USE

The machine adapts to rivetting five-claws nail to ​clothing​, it can revit five-claws nails on the
material of cloth, natural leather, PVC, PU etc. Which the thickness is less than 1.5mm.

CHARACTERS

The machine adopts all mechanical ​connecting rod​ structure. The structure is simple, the
machine is easy to adjust and repair, the performance is safe and reliable, the efficiency is 8-15
times of ​manual operation​.
1.The machine adopts the singles clutch design and ensures that it won't occur the phenomenon
of two revits one time.
2.​Automatic feeding​ of upper spacer and lower spacer, and the speed of feeing can reach to 80
pices per minute which ensure high work efficiency.
3.Equip with laser light for positioning which ensure accuracy and convenience.
4.The five-claws nail after rivetting is firm, neat, beautiful and ametabolic.

PARAMETER

Model JD-501s
Power 220V 50-60Hz
Power of motor 0.37Kw
Exterior size 550*500*1300mm
Weight 126Kg
MACHINES USED IN THE CLOSING ROOM OF A
LARG MANUFACTURING UNIT:
Various types of machines used in the closing room:
List of machines
1. Strap cutting machine
2. Upper leather skiving machine
3. Three step skiving machine
4. Perforating machine
5. Thermo cementing and folding machine
6. Thermo cementing and binding machine
7. Strap folding machine
8. Edge burnishing machine or shearing machine

Stitching machines
9. Flat bed sewing machine
10. Flat bed twin needle sewing machine
11. Zig zag sewing machine
12. Left arm cylinder bed sewing machine
13. Right arm cylinder bed sewing machine
14. Heavy duty cylinder bed sewing machine
15. French binding machine
16. Pfaff 25/29 cylinder bed sewing machine
17. Post bed sewing machine with trimming device
18. Gimping and pinking machine
19. Punching and eyeleting machine
20. Trimming machine for lining
21. Bottom fixing machine
22. Seam rubbing machine
23. 29k 73 shoe repairing machine

UPPER LEATHER SKIVING MACHINE

Skiving machines for upper leather enables many different types of skive, make
the work safe and easier compared to hand skiving. There are types of skiving machines.
These with disc shaped and those with bell shaped knives.

Vital parts and adjustments:

1. The knife
2. The grinding wheel
3. The guide foot
4. The feed roller
5. The guides

THE KNIFE​:
The drum shaped knife is screwed on the knife shaft. There is a disc inside the knife
known a scrap ejector which serves for throwing out the skiving. Observe the edge of the
knife. The outside is sloped and inside is straight.

SCRAP EJECTOR:
Scrap ejector has the knife where the disc must be pushed back with the tool. Finally it is
taken out.

DISTANCE FROM GUIDE FOOT:

With the help of adjusting knob (1) the knife can be moved to the left and right. The knife
is usually set at a distance of half of thickness of leather from the right edge of the guide
foot.
PLAY OF KNIFE
If the knife shaft should run hot, play is insufficient. If the knife should wobble, it has too
much ‘Radial play’ or too much 2​nd​ play.
OIL: The knife shaft must constantly run is oil. Daily oil is required.
KINFE GUARDS:
There is one in front and one near the grinding wheels. The knife guard should keep
skiving waste away from the knife.
GRINDING The grinding wheel is fixed behind the knife and serves for sharpening.
BELT:
The grinding wheel is drawn by textile belt from the rear shaft leather belt automatically
tightened by a belt lightener observe that the belt has proper length.
When we fix the belt rule observe the ​knife must move backward, grinding wheels move
outward ​(Write continuously the steps to be taken before starting upper leather skiving
machine.

THE STRAP CUTTING MACHINE FOR UPPER LEATHER:

PURPOSE:
Strap cutting machines for upper leather are used for cutting of laces, leather
bindings, straps to be folded etc. Whenever uniform straps of leather or light materials
like cloth, leather cloth, plastic sheets etc. are required; such a machine can be used with
advantage. Strap cutting machines are supplied in different sizes. Having a cutting width
of 100mm it is provided with 10 knives, 10 spacers and 10 strap wipers. Additional
knives and also spacers for different widths together with corresponding wipers have to
be obtained, if you want to cut straps in all widths.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS:

T​he drive consists of the pulley:
(1) Which may be turned by motor or hand? It is connected with toothed wheels
(2) which in turn move the upper rollers and the lower roller. ​The upper roller is the knife shaft.
(3) Bearing the knives.
(4) Spacers
(5) And a fastening nut
(6) The knife shaft is secured on the left side by the shaft bearing
(7) With a fastening lever
(8) Behind the knives is a bar which bears the strap wipers
(9) The bar fixed on the left side by means of a wing screw
(10) The lower roller is the padding shaft connected with the working plate
(11) On which a guide is fixed
(12) Below the work place you find two adjusting knobs
(13) The right knob serves to adjust the position of padding against knives
(So that the knives cut more or less in the padding.)
(14) The left knob serves to lighten or loosen a spring which has to pull the padding
against the knobs pressure being affected. At the rear you find a lever (15) which is
worked with a pedal this tool and are attached to chain. If you stop on the pedal, the
padding is released from the knives.

HOW TO HANDLE:

1. Loosen the spring by turning knob 16 and step on the pedal, until the knives do
not touch the padding any more
2. Loosen nut (6) using the special spanner
3. Take out the wing screw 10 and remove the strap wipers from the bar (9)
4. Loosen lever and take out the shaft bearing (7)
5. Remove the fastening nut 6 the knives (4) and the spacers (5) from the knife shaft.
6. Assemble the spacers to the required width (consider that the knives are 1mm
broad)
7. Insert the knives and the spacers alternatively.
8. Screw the fastening nut on the shaft but do not tighten it now.
9. Fit the shaft bearing and tighten the lever
10. Tightening the fastening nut (6)
11. Insert the strap wipers. Be sure they will keep the strap from winding on the shaft.
12. Adjust the padding shaft in the following ways:
a. Tighten spring (16) slightly to that the knives touch the padding
b. Adjust knob (15) so that its end touches the body of the machine.
c. Tighten spring 16 completely
d. Check adjustment with paper. If not properly cut adjust knob (15) again. Take
care that the knives do not cut too heavily in the padding.
13. Adjust the guide, and start cutting. You can either cut prepared pieces in straps or
whole hides, the left of the machine being open. Hold the leather straight and let it pass
along the guides.
MAINTENANCE

All parts which move against each other have to be oiled regularly. The knives can be
re-sharpened.

You should have sufficient spare knives to be able to give the old ones away for
re-sharpening.

The padding can be repeatedly smoothened by turning it on a lathe. After being

worn out, it must be replaced. Careful adjustment and handling is important, to spare the
padding. Before you think on smoothing find out if you cannot obtain another cutting
plane just by changing the position of the spacers and knives.

THE STRAP FOLDING MACHINE:

PURPOS:- This simple machine may be used:-

For folding straps uniformly ​(with or without tape) in widths of 4,6,8,10,and 12mm.
​For folding of piping.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS​:

The drive consists of a pulley, which may be driven with motor and handle, and is
connected with toothed wheels, to drive the upper and lower shafts. The upper shafts and
lower shafts are provided with corresponding groves by which shape of the folded strap
has to be given.
The tubes in front of the shafts are formed in a way, to guide the straps properly
between the groves of lower shaft and upper shaft.
In the rear of the shafts are scrap wipers, which hinder the straps from winding
around. The work table which bears the tube can be moved away and towards the shafts,
fastening knob keep it in position during the work. The top screw serves to regulate the
pressure of both shafts.

HOW TO HANDLE​:
 The straps are inserted into the tubes; the central guiding piece inside the tube
must always show the centre of the straps. The ready folded straps leave the machine on
the other side. Be sure, to hold the straps tightly, to avoid winkles being formed.
The straps can be reinforced with a non- stretching tape of necessary.

PERFORATION:

DEFINITION:

Perforating or punching means, to produce holes or series of holes in shoe

uppers. The holes may be different shape. Purpose of perforation namely;

(a) Punching previous to setting of rivets, eyelets, spots and shapes

(b) Ornamental perforating along edges
(c) Punching of slots, previous to lacing.
(d) Ornamental perforating in the center of toe-caps, wring caps, derby quarters etc.
(e) Small perforation spread all over the sections in order to make the leather more
flexible and permeable to air.

JOB INSTRUCTIONS:

The holes can be only punched through the outside upper; the lining being fitted
afterwards. In this case the lining leather has to be stuck on which cement, before the
upper is punched, the working techniques depends on the type of machine or tools which
are used.

Drive punches are worked with a mallet. The punching has to be marked first. The
punch must be held straight over the marking and the hammer should be handled with
sense. Take care for clear cut punching and be sure that all the punching are uniformed
and exactly according to the markers print made.

Punching pliers are generally used for ornamental perforating but it cannot be
used in mass production for punching previous to setting of rivets eyelets and shapes.
​SEWING MACHINE:

Are not constructed for the punching and the sewing mechanism is likely to be
damaged when using with the punching dies. However in case of very light leather
sewing machines may be used, if there is no better way.
 PERFORATING MACHINE:

Perforating machines of different types are most suitable for the work.
Perforating machines for different types must be suitable for the work, but they are
expensive presses of different types, as hand driven spindle presses clicking presses on
hydraulic. Perforating presses can be used with special dies for perforations and cut outs.
They are commonly used in large scale production.

`` HINTS​:
Drive punch should never be work on stone. Metal or wood, as this will spoil the
cutting edge use of a soft base life a sheet of hard rubber or a piece of bottom leather
waste. Blunt punches can be sharpened on oil stone there is always the danger that leather
cracks along perforators during lasting or in wear of the shoe especially if the holes have
sharp corners. Make sure that the upper retains sufficient strength after perforated. If not
change the design.

All holes must be punched uniformly and completely. Half punched holes in
which waste leather rests have remained or unsightly and give trouble in the finishing
department.

THE FLAT BED SEWING MACHINE:

​Purpose:
Sewing machine for upper making are distinguished into flat bed machines,
cylinder bed machines and post bed machines. The working surface of the machine is
called bed originally all sewing machines have a flat bed machine. Later on cylinder bed
and post bed machines were instructed. However most of stitching work of shoe uppers
can also be done on a flat bed machine.

The PRAFF 3 ft. sewing will be described. This mechanism is particularly suited
for stitching shoe uppers. The machine is treadle operated and has a maximum speed of
900 stitched per minute, if motor is attached. The speed may be increased and up to 2000
stitches per minute can be stitched.

​ VITAL PART AND ADJUSTMENT:

Four group of part can be distinguished in the sewing mechanism namely:-

 1). DRIVING SYSTEM
2). SYSTEM OF STITCH FORMATION
3). FEED SYSTEM
4). THE BOBBIN WINDER

Those four systems are described below:-

1) DRIVING SYSTEM:
The sewing machine is work by feet. The foot rests on the treadle. Which is moved up
and down by them? This up and down movement is converted into a rotary by means of
an exocentric rod.
2). which turns the drive wheel.
3). the drive wheel is connected with the mechanism of the machine by a round belt
driving the pulley.
4).the belt should fitted in proper length neither too loose, nor too light, so that a smooth
and easy running of the machine is secured.

THE FLY WHEEL:

It is fixed on the arm shaft by screws. It consists of three parts:-
1) balance wheel
2) pulley
3) nut

Nut screw is connected to the sewing mechanism with the pulley or to disconnect.
When disconnected the pulley serves to bind the bobbin with thread and engage the
sewing mechanism. Hold the balance wheel with your left hand and turn the nut in
clockwise direction. During stitching, the fly wheel should always rotate towards the
operator. The pressure regulator marked by the cap screw. It is worked by when it is set
around the pressure bar. There should be just as much as a pressure.

The arm shaft is connected with several rods and a crank which in turn moves the
different part of the machine. If you look the arm shaft (left to right) first a crank at your
left end. This crank bear link. The link has to move the take up lever.

And at the same time, the needle bar on the right side there is two eccentric rods.
One of the rods leads to hook another rod is connected to stitch regulator. And leads to
the feed regulator.
 The eccentric rod for this feed drive is adjustable by means of a small screw. It must
be adjusted in such a way that the feed does not move when the needle is in the material.
It is essential that the whole driving system runs smoothly. If the machine is blocked for
some reason, never apply force as this it would bend some of its part and spoil the
mechanism instead of find the defect and remove it.

The needle pierces the material when raising again a loop is formed in the needle
thread. Hook is catching the loop around the bobbin. The hook gives the loop away. Loop
of needle thread and bobbin thread are interlocked and has drawn exactly in the centre
substance of the material. The hook is going back.

THE SEVEN ELEMENT OF STITCH FORMATION:-

1) The needle has to carry needle thread under the material to form a loop when
rising again. This loop is caught by the hook and taken around the bobbin. The needle has
long and short grooves. The short groove must force the hook (i.e. the fly wheel side).
The needle threaded from long groove to short groove side.

2) The bobbins:

The bobbin has to carry the bobbin case and thread. It is inserted in the bobbin case
and the thread and must be filled in the tension spring. Then the thread is pulled, the
bobbin should turn in opposite direction. The tension of the bobbin is adjusted with a
small screw driver by tightening or loosening the screw. The tension is correct if you feed
any resistance when pulling the thread. The bobbin case must be inserted into the
machine.

3) Hook​:

The hook has to catch the loop of the needle thread and to take this loop around the
bobbin, so that a loop of the two threads is formed. The hook is driven by the hook driver
forwards and backward is an oscillating movement.

4) The real holder​:

The hook real holder must allow the thread to move freely. The real must not be
hampered, when new thread is taken from it.

5) The tension disk:-

 The tension disc serves to regulate the poison of the lock of two threads. The disc are
pressed again each other by means of a spring and the adjusting knob. The needle thread
must pass between these discs, being pressed and restricted.
The tension is correct of the discs press just so much that the locks of the both threads
will be pulled in the middle of the substance of the material.

6) The thread control:-

The thread control is a spring wear the tension when the thread take up lever goes
down, the thread is slack. The needle should not stitch thin slack thread. There is also a
danger that the thread may be twisted. The for the supply of the thread is restricted and
held steady by the thread control spring up to the movements when the needle point
pierces the leather. From this movement on, the thread must not be restricted any more.

​Working condition
Before starting to skive observes that the machine is in working condition/knife shaft
oiled, gear box oiled, belting of motor, front shaft and rear shaft attached. Belt of
grinding wheel properly set curve of feed roll machine with curve if knife, guide foot
firmly fastened, set parallel to the knife.

The upper leather skiving machine to be checked for its working condition
needs ten steps to follow before starting the machine.

1. How to handle the upper leather skiving machine.

2. Explain briefly purpose & vital parts and their adjustments.
3. Write short notes on skiving, gimping & pinking.

STEPS TO BE TAKEN BEFORE STARTING UPPER LEATHER SKIVING MACHINE:

1. Lower the top lever; guide foot must not touch the feed roller.

2. Remove the feed rolling from the knife.

3. Adjust the distance of knife from the guide fast (the gap must be half of the
thickness of the leather).
4. Remove the grinding wheel from the knife.
5. Switch on.

6. Adjust the feed roller, move the grinding stone against the knife. Until you hear
little noise, move back at once until the noise disappears. The feed roller should not touch
the knife. It should only remove the bar when grinding.
7. Adjust the grinding stone. Move the grinding stone against the knife. Until you
hear little noise. The grinding stone should barely touch the knife and only a few parts
should be visible.
8. Adjust the guide foot.
9. Adjust the guide (at lower point of the guide foot).
10. Start skiving and adjust the pressure. Light leather requires more pressure than
heavy leather.

2).​THE SYSTEM OF STITCH FORMATION:

A stitch is formed when needle thread and bobbin thread are inter locked. The
machine has seven vital elements, which enable the correct formation of stitches; viz. the
needle, the bobbin hook the thread reel, the tension, the thread control and the thread take
up leaver.

THE THREAD TAKE UP LEVER:

The thread take up lever is moving up and down. It has three functions namely:-
1. To take new thread from the thread reel.
2. To stock the needle thread (when it has to ground the bobbin) and
3. To pull the thread after the lock was formed.

This is the way of the needle thread, thread reel, several guides tension disc, thread
control, thread take up lever works.

THE FEED SYSTEM:

Feed system to serve to carry the material for work. So that the series of stitching
are formed series of stitches is called ‘seam’ there are five important elements.
1) The feed wheel.
2) The stitch regulator
3) The roller foot
4) The pressure regulator
5) The foot lifter

1​).​THE FEED WHEEL:

The feed wheel is under the machine. It is serrated. A small portion of the wheel
is visible. Through the needle plate when the needle is out of the material the feed wheel
along has to carry the material, certain length. This is the length of the stitch when the
needle is in material, the feed wheel must stand still.

2).​ ​THE STITCH REGULATOR​:

The stitch regulator is connected with the feed driving system. It ranges from 0 to
5 (feeding of five mm from stitch to stitch) a scale indicates the mm of feed.

3). ​THE ROLLER FOOT.

The roller foot has to press the material against the teeth of the wheel. It must turn freely.

4​). ​THE PRESSURE REGULATOR​:

It is moved by the cap screw. It is worked by a spring which is set around the
pressure bar. There should be just as much as pressure that the material moved uniformly
and does not slip during stitching. Be sure that no impressions are marked on the leather.

5). ​THE FOOT LIFTER:

It serves to lift the roller foot when the material brought under the needle and
when it is taken out. The foot lifter should generally be worked with the stitching. There
is also a hand leaver observe that the tension is released when the roller foot is lifted.

6). ​THE BOBBIN WINDER:

Consist of the real holder thread ways bobbin holder, winder wheel, winder
release link. The work is through the slot of the bobbin. You must hold it during winding.

​HOW TO HANDLE THE FLAT BED SEWING MACHINE​:

Working condition​:
Before starting to stitch you have to check if the machine is in the working
condition, observe the following points:
Machine, is it oiled? Does it run smoothly and without noise? All the nuts and
screws are properly tightened? Have all the shafts and bars sufficient play and not too
much play?

7). ​ROLLER FOOT:

It is parallel to the bed plate and does it cover the teeth of the feed wheel?
Feed wheel: does it run freely and not rub on the plate? Are the teeth clean? They should
not too high or too low.

8). ​TENSION DISCONNECTION:-

 If the tension released when the roller foot is lifted. It must be released to early to
adjust if necessary screw at pressure bar.

9). ​FLY WHEEL:

If the sewing machine engaged and the belt fitting properly.

NEEDLE BAR. If the height of the needle bar properly adjusted (rub part of the crank
must be 1.5 mm along the upper edge of the needle of the eye) adjust the screw if
necessary at the needle bar.

10). ​STEP TO GO:

1. Lift the roller foot.

Using the hand lifter.

2. THREAD THE BOBBIN: wind completely with thread. The thread must be
uniformly and tightly. Then after inserting the bobbin case fit the end of the thread under
the tension spring pull the thread and look. The bobbin must turn in opposite direction. If
necessary adjusted the tension spring of the bobbin case with a small screw driver.

3) ​INSERT THE NEEDLE:- Move the roller foot a side. Observe that the short groove
of the needle must face the fly wheel.

4). ​THREAD THE NEEDLE:- watch the correct thread way, real guides, tension;
thread control taken up guide’s needle. The needle is threaded from long groove to short
groove side.

5). ​FETCH THE BOBBIN THREAD UP​:- Hold the loosen end of the needle and turn
the fly wheel, until the needle moves up and down again. ​The bobbin thread must come up.

6). ​START STITCHING ON WASTE LEATHER​:- Have the roller foot risen by
means of the knee lever. Hold the loose end of the needle thread with your left hand.
Stitch in and lay the thread under their roller foot so that it holds the threads. Then start
stitching.

7). ​ADJUST THE TENSION​: -

Tighten tension during stitching until loops appear on the surface of the
leather. Then loosen the tension further during stitching. Until the loose disappears check
if stitches proper on the reverse side.
8). ​ADJUST THE LENGTH OF THE STITCHING: ​Count the stitches with the help
of a gauge and use the stitch regulator knob for changing them.

9). ​ADJUST THE PRESSURE OF THE ROLLER FOOT​:- Be sure, the material
does not slip. But avoid impressions being printed on the leather.

10). ​START STITCHING:- A common mistake step no. 6 of the above instruction is
the most important one. If the needle thread is not held fast, before the first stitch is made,
it will slip in the hook, raise the block the mechanism of the machine. The hook which
raises the body has then to be cleaned which is a quite unnecessary.

11). ​HOLD THE NEEDLE THREAD BEFORE STARTING TO STITCH:

Maintenance of the flat bed sewing machine (PFAFF 34-5) cleaning the machine. Any
dust has to be removed. Kerosene oil may be used if the machine is very dirty. But no
other cleaning medium. The oil holes are marked with red color. Any part which moved
against each other has to be oiled. Special sewing machine oil (household lubricator) has
to be used. Our mechanism has to be cleaned with the half of a cloth and small painting.
Never use other lubrications such as ropes, oil, glycerin and the like, since they would
spoil the mechanism of the machine.

CLEANING THE HOOK:-

When you have to take the hook out, you must go through the following steps:-
1). Remove the needle, the bed plate side the needle.

2). Take out screw and remove piece, watch the spring with the holding piece and keep it aside.
3). Loosen the screw, push the pin outwards and remove the shaft with the feed system. There is a
pin in near portion inside a spring. Take it out.

4). Take the parts of the hook. Raise body clean and oil them. Assemble them in reverse way.

MACHINE OIL FOR SEWING MACHINE:-

Sewing machine oil or household lubrication must be clean and free of resin. It
must therefore be a good brand and care has to be taken when purchasing it. Other
lubrication such as rape oil, glycerin (i.e. linseed oil alone) must never be used for sewing
machines. It is advisable to keep the oil in closing room in separate oil, can properly in a
special colour, no mistake can happen. The wrong type of oil would spoil the mechanism
of the machine.
THE CYLINDER BED LEFT ARM SEWING MACHINE
Purpose:

Cylinder bed sewing machine is distinguished into left arm and right arm machines,
each having its special advantage. Right arm machines are suited for galosh stitching in
balmorals boots vamping of oxford and derby shoes stitching of lining and outside and
for all stitching work in tabular or concave shaped uppers where the back has to place at
the right side as stitching of tongue and tabs, over lays etc. cylinder bed machine is
essential when uppers have to be closed on the round.

In what follows, the PFAFF27-5, sewing machine will be described. The machine
has in its mechanism generally the same features as the PFAFF34-5. It has under wheel
feed and roller feet which both make the leather run smoothly. The described machine is
treadle operated and then has a maximum speed of 600 stitches per minute. If a motor is
attached the speed may be increased up to 1200 stitches per minute. You will find that the
machine is considerably slower than a flat bed machine. The reason is the different hook
system, which is described below:

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS:

All what has been said about PFAFF 34-5 is valid here also. The important
different is the hook

The bobbin is inserted into hook. Hence you have to take the hook out. Whenever
you want to change the bobbin thread, be careful the hook must not be dropped on the
floor because the hardened point the hook breaks easily.

HOW TO HANDLE THE MACHINE:

To thread the bobbin, do as follows;

1). Push a spring a side and take off a cap.

2). Have the hook in top position and hold your right hand.
3). A slight touch with your finger tip against the lower edge of the hook will make it fall
into your open hand. Do not drop the hook.
4). Open the hook and insert the bobbin thread. Then close the hook again and insert it in
the machine.

MAINTENANCE​:
 If in exceptional cases the machine should not feed properly: it is possible that the
rim of the feed wheel is clogged or that PFAFF has accumulated between the feed wheel
and the cylinder bed. To remedy this remove and replace the feed wheel as described in
the instruction booklet.

THE POSTBED SEWING MACHINE FOR LEATHER:

​Purpose​:
Post bed machine have been constructed for operations in the tabular shaped or
closed uppers. In that follows the PFAFF 1993-55-125 post bed sewing machine will be
described.

This is a special machine for running round and under trimming of the lining at
the ankle edge of shoes and boots. It may also serve, with the trimming device
disengaged, for all singe line stitching. It is particularly suited for stitching around cut /
cuts and perforations on closed uppers for sewing over lay on nearly finished uppers for
back strapping, for ramping of derby and oxford uppers etc.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS:

A). ​THE DRIVING SYSTEM:

The machine is worked with electric motor of 1/3 hp. It has a maximum speed of
3000 stitches per minute, which however cannot be fully used. The sewing mechanism is
driven by gear wheels. The fly wheel can be disconnected when filling the bobbin.

B). ​THE SYSTEM OF THE STITCH FORMATION:

In different to the central bobbin machines, this machine is provided with a
horizontal rotary hook, which rotates two items during the completion of the stitch. A
lock stitch is formed.

C). ​THE FEED SYSTEM:

The machine has wheel feed (leather feed) which is gear driven. The wheel does
not move during the formation of the stitch, when the needle is in the material. The
machine is adjusted for three predetermined standardized stitch lengths. The stitch length
is changed by means of the gear shifted.

D). ​THE BOBBIN WINDERS:

 In principle it is similar to the one of the central bobbin machine.

E). ​THE TRIMMING MECHANISM:

The under trimmer is driven from the top arm of the machine. Light pressure on
the lever at the right will threw the trimmer out of the operation. The trimming knife is
instantly re-engaged by moving the lever at the left of the releasing leaver, to the front.

HOW TO HANDLE​:-
Observe the same steps, as pointed out in the leather for the central bobbin
machine. Consult the instruction booklet.

THE PERFORATING MACHINE

Purpose:
The machine can be used for all sorts of perforating work, for sloughing or for
gimping.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS:

1). ​THE DIES​:-

A die consist of bearing and punches. The die is fastened in the machine with bolt
1.a) the die has two functions: it has to produce the holes in the material and it has to feed
the material. The lift of the die for feeding is adjusted with crank 1.b) normally the crank
should be in the first hole in front. There by a lift of 0.1 mm is ensured which is sufficient
in most of the cases. The spacing of the holes is regulated with the space regulator i.e. at
the right side of the machine.

2).​ ​THE BRASS TAPE​:

The dies strike against a brass tape which is under the work and must not be moved
by die. This brass tape should help to produce a clean cut punch hole and at the same
time protest the cutting edge of the punch.

The brass tape can be moved from the die with regulating screw. It should be
moves towards the die (i.e. raised) just as much as in necessary to produce a clean, cut
punch hole. If it is moved higher, the punch would jump it and break.
 When the tape is worn at one spot, it has to be moved slightly using handle
2.b.and lever 2.c.

3). ​THE PRESSURE FOOT:

There is a pressure foot at either side of the die. The correct position of the pressure
foot is adjusted with bolts (a & 3b).

4). ​THE GUIDE:-

There is a guide of either side of the die. The left one or the right one may be
used, as the case may be. The guides can be moved under the table. They are adjusted by
means of a screwed nut.

5). ​THE AIMING DEVICE:-

At the left is a hand operated lever called “aiming device” it serves to check the
position of the punches previous to the actual punching.

6). ​THE PEDALS:-

The left pedals serve to lift the pressure foot. The right pedals serves to feed the
material. A short tap of the right foot will result in a single punching. If the pedal is press
down half-way, the machine will run in a sped of 400 turns per minute. If the pedal is
pressed down entirely the machine will run in a sped of 700 turns per minute.

HOW TO HANDLE THE PERFORATING MACHINE:-

Before you start, you must be sure that the machine is clean, lubricated and is in
working condition.

1). Insert the die.

2). Check the condition of the brass tape. If worn, move it forward.
3). Lower the table, until you are sure that the die cannot touch the brass tape when the
machine is started.
4). Switch the motor on and start the machine.
5). Punch on waste leather, during punching raise, the brass tape until clean cut punch
holes appears.
6). Start work.
7). Space the punching (scale at right side).

MAINTAINANCE: As in any other machine, all parts which have against each other
have to be oiled regularly.
THE GIMPING AND PINKING MACHINE:

​ URPOSE​:- The small machine is used for cutting a gimping or pinking edge on upper
P
sections.

DESCRIPTION:- The machine is consists of:

1). Drive wheel (with handle) forced on a shaft.

2). Gimping wheels with an adjusting nuts, at the other end of a shaft.
3). Adjustable hard rubber padding.

HOW TO HANDLE:-

The working is understandable at sight.

MAINTAINANCE:-

Occasionally oiling is required. The padding has to be ground from time to time,
in order to make it smooth again. After being born out, it has to be replaced.

PUNCHING AND EYELETING MACHINE:-

​PURPOSE:-
Treadle operated eyeleting machine and punching machine with guide have been
moved on one end and the some punch, in order to enable the speeding eyeleting or a
somewhat larger scale production.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS:

The punching machine works by means of treadle operated lever. The dies and the
brass avail can be exchanged, so that different sizes of holes can be punched as well as
dies for rivets bottoms, hooks eyelets etc. can inserted the filling in size no 10.
The eyeleting machine is provided with the guiding channel which can be easily
adjusted for different sizes of eyelets.

HOW TO HANDLE:
 Fill the eyelet container completely observe that the eyelets are equal and of good
quality. The working of the machine is understandable at first sight. Take care for proper
adjustment so that only one eyelet is coming at a time. Do not forget to oil the machine
regularly.
THE EDGE SHARING MACHINE​:
​Purpose:-
The machine is used for producing an imitation fold at the edge operation being
called edge shearing. This machine can produce two types of edges, either the ordinary
shared edged, or the turned edge, according to the appliances which are inserted.

VITAL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENT:-

We have to deal with the searing iron, heat adjustment, the feed adjustment the
guide roller and the guide.

1). The searing iron must be inserted into holders and secured by clamping screws.
After being adjusted, it must be 12mm, above the feed table and slightly touch the guide
it should never touch the feed catcher.
2).The head described is done by the right pedal. The described searing head can be
selected according to a scale and can be limited by step screws.
3). The feed is done by a feed catcher and can be adjusted by the lift pedal. Upper and
lower limit of the speed can be adjusted by a stop screws.
4). The guide roller can be adjusted as to position and pressure by means of the knurled
screw at the rear of the machine. When shearing this leather the guide roller should press
only slightly the pressure should be increased for thick leather.
5). The guide is permanently fixed at the right of the searing iron and need not be
adjusted.
6).There is different type of searing irons for different types of leather.