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Dyeing of Wool and Silk by Eucalyptus Leaves Extract
Dyeing of Wool and Silk by Eucalyptus Leaves Extract
To cite this Article Mongkholrattanasit, Rattanaphol, Kryštůfek, Jiri and Wiener, Jakub(2009) 'Dyeing of Wool and Silk by
Eucalyptus Leaves Extract', Journal of Natural Fibers, 6: 4, 319 — 330
To link to this Article: DOI: 10.1080/15440470903354695
URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440470903354695
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Journal of Natural Fibers, 6:319–330, 2009
Copyright © Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
ISSN: 1544-0478 print/1544-046X online
DOI: 10.1080/15440470903354695
Extract
RATTANAPHOL MONGKHOLRATTANASIT,
Dyeing
R. Mongkholrattanasit
by Eucalyptus et
Extract
al.
Wool and silk fabrics were dyed using the water extract obtained
from eucalyptus leaves; essentially higher utilization of dyestuffs
and shortening of the dyeing procedure was achieved as a result of
the padding dyeing principle followed prior to drying. Simulta-
neous mordanting by FeSO4 shows brown-grey color of different
shades depending on the dye concentration. The dye exploitation
of wool is higher than that of silk, and in both cases common
“exhaustion” methods are better than “long baths.” The ecological
and economical considerations of dyeing by natural dyestuffs are
discussed.
INTRODUCTION
319
320 R. Mongkholrattanasit et al.
O OH O OH
HO O OH
HO OH HO O
OH OH
OH O OH
OH
O
OH O
OH OH
OH OH
HO O HO O
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O
O OH
OH O
OH OH O O
OH
O O
CH3
O OH OH
OH OH OH
OH
OH
Rutin (C.I. 75730) Quercitrin (C.I. 75720)
A lower affinity results in the low dye exhaustion after the dye bath on
the fiber. This can also be observed in the dyeing of natural fibers with
natural dyes, such as the indigoid and anthocyanin dyes.
It is rather surprising to note that the numerous published works in the
field failed to observe the very low yield (bath exhaustion) of natural dyes.
Note that the obtained colors are defined by means of Kubelka–Munk K/S
values or trichromatic coordinates, but the final dye distribution between
the bath and fibers’ use is not mentioned.
We analyzed this problem by studying the dyeing possibilities of the
hot water extract of eucalyptus leaves.
Cl OH O OH
O2N N CH2CH3
N N
OH O NH R
CH2CH2CN
(a) (b)
C.I. Disperse Red 50 R = H (C.I. Disperse Blue 27)
R = CH3 (C.I. Disperse Blue 72)
FIGURE 2 Chemical constitution of typical disperse dyes. (a) Azo dye and (b) anthraquinone
dyes.
322 R. Mongkholrattanasit et al.
FIGURE 3 Quasi-sorption isotherm after 120 min dyeing of silk fabric (unmordanted) with
eucalyptus leaves extract at 30°C, 60°C, and 90°C.
Dyeing by Eucalyptus Extract 323
of baths seem to be too high (at least for European standards and customs)
and are non-productive. For example, the required 3–5 h wetting of material
with water before dyeing could be greatly reduced by wetting in a bath by
specially made wetting agent, and this or another agent could also be added
into the dyeing bath.
The ineffective use of natural dyes was already discussed above. The
majority of dyes ceases as effluents in sewer. The mordanting salts do not
have affinity to the fibers and therefore only a small part of them is
bounded with fibers, and after dyeing and final rinsing all the remnants are
carried off by water.
What about the idea of storing the mordanting baths for future use?
While logical, the number and volume of stock reservoirs (and place in dye
house) make it an unpractical possibility.
Naturally, serious conception-questions follow from this. Should “natu-
ral dyeing” remain as something principally untouchable whose traditional
originality must be safe-guarded at any costs, or are we going to consider
this natural raw-material source as an ecologically favorable supplement to
synthetic colorants? Or, can we synthesize the methodologies of “natural
dyeing” with the research and application processes of modern dyeing
technology?
Nevertheless, both natural dyeing and modern dyeing technology
can coexist. In any case, we are trying to explore the second of the
following:
(related to the fiber unit) causes the higher dye exploitation (see also Agarwal
and Patel 2002).
In the case of natural dyes, the dye fixation is based on the reaction
with the salts of complex-forming metals–-mordants in the same or next
bath—or the textile can be pre-metalized with mordant (this pre-mordanting
is carried out from the long bath––the large non-effectiveness is mentioned
above. Therefore, we also experimented with pad-dry principle at this
operation).
In semi continuous dyeing technology, several methods of dye fixation
are known. The following two principles are important for our purpose:
% pick up
C pi = .C 0
100
Dyeing by Eucalyptus Extract 325
Absorbance
Cr =
e .l
C r .V
Cw =
1, 000. g
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where V is the total volume after rinsing (mL) and g is the weight of material
(g). The concentration of dye absorbed on material, Cs (mg/g) is calculated
using the equation given below
C s = C pi − C w
E = 100 − W
where W is the percentage of dye that was stripped from the material (%).
Instrumentation
Mordanting and dyeing were carried out in a two-bowl padding mangle
machine (Mathis Padding machine, type no. HVF.69805) and drying
machine (Mathis Labdryer, type no. LTE-2992).
326 R. Mongkholrattanasit et al.
Then it was crumbled by blender and used for standard calibration curve.
The eucalyptus leaf extract (which in the concentrated state became turbid)
after dilution gives a relatively clear solution system with a linear depen-
dence on the concentration absorbance, absorption peak (lmax) at 262 nm.
(Yarosh et al. 2001).
water remained colorless. The rinsed water was collected with the rest of
dyeing bath in the volumetric flask and filled up to the defined volume for
absorbance measurement by UV–vis spectrophotometer (at the wavelength
of 270 nm at which the maximum absorbance was recorded).
The concentration of EUCe fixed in the fiber and percentage of its use
(percentage of yield) from bath on fiber were calculated from the absor-
bance of the rinsing water by using the standard graph.
Light fastness, washing fastness, and rubbing fastness were evaluated
according to ISO standards.
Silk and wool fabrics dyed with the water extract of eucalyptus leaves in the
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presence of the FeSO4 mordant in the same padding bath show a color
range of a brown grey shade to a dark grey shade. In Tables 1 and 2, the
results are presented.
The yield (exploitation) of the coloring component of EUCe is surpris-
ingly good in wool fabric (about 68%–52% from the lowest to the highest
concentrations), and this corresponds to the medium deep brown-grey
shades in the concentrations of more than 20 g/L eucalyptus leaf extract.
These exploitation percentages are about approximately three to four times
more than results achieved by the common dyeing “from long bath.”
TABLE 1 Percentage Yield and K/S Values Obtained by the Simultaneous Pad-Dyeing/
Mordant of Wool Fabric
Percentage
C0 (g/L) of pick up Cpi (mg/g) Cs (mg/g) Yield (%) K/S value
TABLE 2 Percentage Yield and K/S Values Obtained by the Simultaneous Pad-Dyeing/
Mordant of Silk Fabric
Percentage
C0 (g/L) of pick up Cpi (mg/g) Cs (mg/g) Yield (%) K/S value
In the silk fabric, the exploitation is less favorable and the decline with
the changing to deeper shades is more distinct (about 22% to 15% exploitation).
The lower percentage of exploitation of EUCe dye on silk compared
with wool may be related to
(a) the greater crystallinity of silk when compared with the wool and
(b) the much lower content of groups that are able to form the hydrogen
bonds with phenolic compounds as flavonoid dyes and parts of tannin
(in the concrete):
Ratting
(color change)
1 g/L 3–4 4
10 g/L 4 4
40 g/L 4 4
Concentration Ratting
Silk fabric
Color change 4–5 4–5 4–5
Staining of:
-Acetate 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Cotton 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Nylon 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Polyester 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Acrylic 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Wool 4–5 4–5 4–5
Wool fabric
Color change 4–5 4–5 4–5
Staining of:
-Acetate 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Cotton 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Nylon 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Polyester 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Acrylic 4–5 4–5 4–5
-Wool 4–5 4–5 4–5
CONCLUSIONS
Silk and wool fabrics can be dyed with the water extract of eucalyptus
leaves using the economical “pad-dry” technique with the simultaneous
FeSO4 mordanting, which enables better percentage yield of dye compo-
nent when compared with dyeing from long baths.
330 R. Mongkholrattanasit et al.
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