Coastal Planning & Management

VDB 4233

Lesson – 3
Metocean
Re-cap from previous session

Overview of :

• River mouth features

• Shoreline and coastal features

 Overall Learning Outcomes
CLO1 Assess the influencing environmental factors and
related coastal processes, and analyze causes of
coastal erosion/sedimentation

CLO2 Develop skills and knowledge for the planning and

management of coastal zone in respecting the
principles of sustainability

CLO3 Evaluate application of different coastal stabilization

schemes and the governing factors for their selection
and impacts

PO1 Acquire and apply engineering fundamentals to

complex civil engineering problems

PO2 Identify, formulate and solve complex civil engineering

problems using creativity and innovativeness
Coastal Planning & Management
Oceanographic Data & Field Investigation

• Overview of basic oceanographic data

and environmental forces

• Introduction to typical field investigation

• Example of field measurement and data

analysis
 Introduction

Data is essential for planning

development, managing
assets, design & construction
of structures in the coastal
zone.

Data is an investment for the

future, reducing uncertainty
and ensuring that unnecessary
capital is not spent in over-
design or an under-design that
leads to expensive failures.
 Typical Oceanographic & Field Data

• Bathymetric • Current

• Wind • Suspended sediment

• Wave • Bed sample

• Tide/water level • Other historical data

 Site Assessment

Site visits are normally a pre-requisite to any activity in such

work

Relevant information gathered & compiled during the visits

General site conditions and adjacent coastlines will be able to

be observed first-hand

Discussions with local people regarding historical information

of the site & their observations can also be done
 Review of Previous Studies

Review of past reports & documents is aimed at establishing

extent of information available that can be used in the
investigation & analysis.

Information from previous studies including data on various

hydrological & coastal processes in the study area is useful in
assessment of existing condition.

Sufficiency of available data will be checked, any additional field

data/laboratory testing required will be finalised.

Che Hashim & wife, Hasnah Bakar, with

makeshift plank wall that they used to
protect themselves against waves (09/03/05,
The Star)
 Admiralty/
hydrographic
charts

• Admiralty/hydrographic charts of
seas & oceans not only provide
information to navigators but also to
coastal engineers.

• In most countries, the Hydrographic

Department of the national navy is
responsible for providing up-to-date
information on navigation.

• Information normally found in the

charts include topography, bed
material, depths, sea levels &
currents.
 N

(source : BA Chart 771)

Chart (in fathoms) - Terengganu

 0
2
5

10 Chart (in meter) – North Klang Strait

 C-MAP Digital
Chart (in meter) -
Terengganu
Hydrographic &
Topographic
Survey
• Sufficient details of the bathymetry
within the study area need to be
surveyed (if none had been done
recently) to provide information for
modelling and design works.
• Survey shall provide the latest
information on seabed bathymetry
and condition.
• The survey shall complement
existing data compiled from
Admiralty Charts.
 Hydrographic & Topographic survey

Scale of charts may be unsuitable for the purpose of design &

construction; hence, more detailed maps or surveys are required.

Survey area determined by extent of the project area & presence of

any significant features around the project area.

How detailed the survey is depends on the objective of the overall

study & project size. This includes spacing of survey lines & cross-
check survey lines.

Shallow water area such as mud flats & sand bars not fully accessible
by survey vessel should be covered by appropriate means.
 Hydrographic & Topographic survey

Coordinate systems adopted for survey shall preferably be MRSO

Coordinate System. Longitudinal & Latitudinal coordinates shall
also be plotted on the survey plans.

Height datum shall be based on nearest reliable Survey

Department’s benchmark transferred to the site by levelling
method. All survey levels shall preferably be reduced to Admiralty
Chart Datum (ACD).

In locations where ACD is not known, it is useful to establish a

relationship between ACD & Land Survey Datum (LSD) as well as
Mean Sea Level (MSL) for survey area.

Continuous tidal observation within the survey area should be

done to obtain a synchronized datum level throughout by
harmonic analysis and Datum Level Determination.
Hydrographic & Topographic Survey

Extent of Survey
 Wind

Long-term wind data may be procured for the nearest

meteorological station from the Malaysian Meteorological Office.

An annual wind rose can be derived to determine dominant wind

directions & magnitude.

Wind data can also be used to assess wave climate at site.

MMO’s Wind Data

 Waves

A wind-wave hindcasting software can be used to hindcast wave

data from wind records. Normally it will require hourly averaged
wind data (speed & direction) covering a reasonably long period
(at least 5 years) for the wave hindcasting.

Data from various global wave models can be used to assess the
wave climate e.g. UKMO.

Summary of Shipboard Meteorological Observations (SSMO) data

also useful source of wave data but requires checking before use.

ADCPs or wave rider buoys could also be deployed in offshore

conditions to capture wave conditions within a selected time frame
 Offshore Wave Data

Offshore Wave Data (BMO)

(Jan 1996 – May 1999)
Offshore Wave Data (BMO)
(May 1999 – June 2002)

Location of Wave Data Extraction

Points from UKMO Global Wave Model

Wave Height vs. Time

 Wave hindcasting
310 350
o o
N

D:\zana1\Projects\Penang\mike21\waves\wv8502n.dt0
N

D:\zana1\Projects\Penang\mike21\waves\wv8502n.dt0
N

D:\zana1\Projects\Penang\mike21\waves\wv8502n.dt0
0
o
340
o 10
320 330
300 o o
o
o 20
o
30
290 o
40
o
o
50
280 o60
Calm
o o70 48.43 %
Calm
80
o 48.43 % Calm
270 o90 Hm0 (m)
48.43 %

o 100
o Above 6
Hm05 (m)
- 6
1o 10 4 Above
- 5 6

260 1o 20 3 - 45 - 6
2 - 34 - 5

o Calm o 130 1 - 23 - 4
0.5 - 12 - 3
0.2 - 0.51 - 2
o 1%
250 48.43 % 150 1%
Below 0.2
0.5 - 1
0.2 - 0.5

o o
140 Below 0.2
1%
160
Wave Rose
o
o
240 170
o
o
Hm0 (m)
230
o Above 6
220 180 5- 6
o
210 o
4- 5
o
200 190 3- 4
o
o 2- 3
1- 2
0.5 - 1
0.2 - 0.5
1%
Fetch Length Analysis Below 0.2
 Ship Observations

Marsden Squares
 Shipboard Observations
BAHAGIAN KEJURUTERAAN PANTAI
JABATAN PENGAIRAN DAN SALIRAN MALAYSIA
WAVE STATISTICS SUMMARIES - WAVE & SWELL
Period T (s)
MARSDEN SQUARE : 2663 2664 2665 2653 2654 2655 2643 2644 2645 Code
STARTING DATE : 01-01-1949 ENDING DATE : 01-01-1983 1 4-5
NO. OBSERVATIONS : 7289 PERCENT CALM : 0.00% 2 6-7
CHOSEN MONTHS : JAN FEB MAC APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC 3 8-9
4 10 - 11
Direction : 045 - 075 DEGREES 5 12 - 13
--------------------------------------------------------------- 6 > 13
l 2 3 4 5 6 Total
--------------------------------------------------------------- Wave
1 3.6 0.3 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.1 4.2 Height H (m)
2 4.7 1.5 0.4 0.1 0.1 0.6 7.4 Code
3 1.9 2.9 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.2 5.4 1 < 0.75
4 0.5 1.6 0.5 0.1 0.0 0.0 2.7 2 0.75 - 1.25
5 0.2 0.7 0.7 0.1 0.0 0.0 1.8 3 1.25 - 1.75
6 0.1 0.2 0.6 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.9 4 1.75 - 2.25
5 2.25 - 2.75
7 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3
6 2.75 - 3.25
8 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2
7 3.25 - 3.75
9 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1
8 3.75 - 4.25
--------------------------------------------------------------- 9 > 4.25
Total 11.1 7.4 3.0 0.5 0.2 0.9 23.1
---------------------------------------------------------------
 Hs vs. Time
Waves

Tp vs. Time

Tz vs. Time

ADCP

Peak Direction vs. Time

Peak Spread vs. Time

Directional Wave Rider Buoy

 Tidal Ranges for Peninsular Malaysia

KUALA PERLIS
MHWS +3.1m ACD
MLWS +0.6m ACD
PULAU LANGKAWI
MHWS +3.1m ACD
MLWS +0.6m ACD

PULAU PINANG
MHWS +2.7m ACD
MLWS +0.7m ACD
Range 2.0m

BAGAN DATOH
MHWS +2.9m ACD
MLWS +0.4m ACD
Range 2.5m

PELABUHAN KLANG
MHWS +5.3m ACD
MLWS +1.1m ACD
Range 4.2m

PORT DICKSON HORSBURGH LT. HOUSE

MHWS +2.7m ACD MHWS +2.7m ACD
MLWS +0.3m ACD MLWS +0.4m ACD
Range 2.4m Range 2.3m
TANJUNG KLING
MHWS +2.4m ACD KUALA BATU PAHAT
MLWS +0.6m ACD MHWS +2.7m ACD
Range 1.8m MLWS +0.3m ACD
Range 2.4m
 Tidal Level Variation for Penang

Tidal Levels m ACD

Highest Astronomical Tide (HAT) 3.09
Mean High Water Spring (MHWS) 2.69
Mean High Water Neap (MHWN) 1.96
Mean Sea Level (MSL) 1.71
Mean Low Water Neap (MLWN) 1.45
Mean Low Water Spring (MLWS) 0.72
Lowest Astronomical Tide (LAT) 0.00
Source: Malaysian Tide Table 2008
 Water Levels

• Water level measurements usually

carried out using automatic tide
gauges.

• Tide gauges are normally pressure-

type.

2.0

1.5

1.0

0.5

0.0

-0.5

-1.0

-1.5

-2.0

12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00
2002-03-26 03-28 03-30 04-01 04-03 04-05 04-07 04-09 04-11 04-13 04-15
Water Levels
 Water Levels

Water Level Recorder Ready for Deployment

 Currents

Current measurements
typically carried out using
self-recording current
meters and impeller-type
current meters.
 Currents
Depending on the type of
measuring equipment:

Some instruments
deployed at mid-depth at
several locations to
measure current speed &
direction Speed

While some are bed

mounted and able to
measure velocity profile
over water column.

Direction
 Water Sampling

Instrument normally used is a Van Dorn water sampler

Water sampling done during spring & neap periods

Water samples taken at various depths e.g. bed level, 0.2D, 0.5D
and 0.8D (D is height of water column)
 Water Sampling

Penang, (North Channel)

Samples analysed for Total Station 1 : Suspended Solid (mg/l)

Station 1 - (Spring Tide)

Suspended Sediment (TSS) 220.0

200.0

concentrations. 180.0
160.0
140.0
120.0

mg/l
100.0
Alternatively, water quality measuring 80.0
60.0

instruments with sensors (normally 40.0

20.0

optical in nature) capable in 0.0

10/22/02 0:00 10/23/02 0:00 10/24/02 0:00 10/25/02 0:00
Time
measuring in-situ TSS concentrations Penang, (North Channel)
Station 1 : Total Suspended Solid (mg/l)
can be used. For this method, Station 1 - (Neap Tide)

samples need not be collected and 220.0

200.0

sent to a laboratory for analysis. 180.0

160.0
140.0

However, instrument must be

mg/l
120.0
100.0

calibrated carefully before use. 80.0

60.0
40.0
20.0
0.0

Results shall be used to calibrate & 10/29/02 0:00 10/30/02 0:00

Time
10/31/02 0:00 11/1/02 0:00

verify sediment transport model

 Bed Sampling

Bed samples from bed &

nearshore areas taken at various
locations.

A dedicated mechanical grab

sampler is normally used.

Samples visually classified &

analysed for particle size
distribution (PSD). Density of
several samples shall also be
determined.

Samples taken from site will be

sent to a laboratory for analysis.

Results used to determine bed

material within the study area.
 Remarks

Data collection programme comparable with study of the coastal

zone where most effective results are achieved utilising an
integrated & multi-disciplinary approach.

Appropriateness of data to any specific application dependent on

context of measurement, accuracy, sensitivity & limitations of
measuring instruments &/or measuring techniques.

Recording instruments are to be calibrated regularly to ensure

recording accuracy.

Relative time scale of measurements compared with that of the

phenomenon being considered together with the processing of
the data recorded by the instruments are important.

Must be willing to spend $$$ for quality data.

Re-cap of today’s lecture

• Overview of basic oceanographic data

and environmental forces

• Introduction to typical field investigation

• Example of field measurement and data

analysis
Any question ??